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Title: A guide to modern cookery
Author: A. Escoffier
Release date: August 12, 2023 [eBook #71395]
Language: English
Original publication: London: William Neinemann, 1907
Credits: ellinora, Fox in the Stars, David Wilson and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY ***
A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY
A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY.
_SOME PRESS OPINIONS._
“This is probably one of the most important cookery books issued
this century, and will, it may be presumed, eventually take its
place alongside the familiar culinary classics of former days. It is
especially interesting as marking the inauguration of an entirely new
style of living. M. Escoffier’s book is a culinary education in itself,
and should take rank as a standard, be studied by all housekeepers who
have either large households or gourmets to cater for, and should most
certainly be placed in the hands of all persons training for high-class
cookery teachers.”—_Queen._
“His book is comprehensive. It begins at the beginning and explains
the principles, so that a lady who reads it may talk learnedly to her
cook; it deals fully with all the old-established dishes of different
countries; but its main feature is the number of delightful novelties
which it introduces to notice. There are plenty of recipes which may be
applied with advantage in the middle-class household where the lady in
the kitchen has nobody under her, for M. Escoffier’s directions deal
alike with humble and elaborate preparations.”—_Outlook._
“It is a big book written by a great cook, and it will be useful
not only to accomplished cooks and experienced housekeepers, but
also to beginners in the kitchen and the housekeeper’s room, for
M. Escoffier takes nothing for granted and explains very patiently all
the groundwork of the art of cookery before he discussed the _haute
cuisine_. It contains much that is interesting to the _gourmet_ as well
as much that is useful to the cook, for he has little tales to tell
concerning some of the dishes; and now and again a scrap of history
crops up.”—_Tatler._
“Even as you take up the volume a sense of pleasurable anticipation
takes possession of you, so pleasing is the cover, so clear and bold
is the type, and so delightful to the touch is the paper on which is
printed the garnered wisdom of the famous _chef_. A little reading
will soon show you that it is as full of sound wisdom, and of fresh
and interesting information, as Brillat-Savarin’s “Physiologie du
Goût”.”—_The Westminster Gazette._
“The ordinary good plain British cook will discover something worth the
learning on every page; the worried mistresses of small establishments
will cherish the book as a treasure-house of new ideas; the man who
likes a good dinner but has no special knowledge of the art of the
kitchen will find the preface and the introductions to the chapters
capital reading; and every English-speaking gourmet will have a well
thumbed copy of this very modern “Guide” upon his book-shelf. The book
is a comprehensive one, and at the same time a simple one. It is a
book that should be in every house.”—_Pall Mall Gazette._
[Illustration: _A. Escoffier_]
A GUIDE TO
MODERN COOKERY
BY
A. ESCOFFIER
OF THE CARLTON HOTEL
_WITH PORTRAIT_
NEW AND REVISED EDITION
[Logo: Windmill, 1920]
LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN
_Printed in Great Britain._
_First Printed, May 1907
Second Impression, December 1907
New and Revised Edition, January 1909
New Impressions, August 1911, May 1913,
March 1916, January 1920._
_Copyright 1907 by William Heinemann._
PREFACE
If the art of Cookery in all its branches were not undergoing a process
of evolution, and if its canons could be once and for ever fixed, as
are those of certain scientific operations and mathematical procedures,
the present work would have no _raison d’être_; inasmuch as there
already exist several excellent culinary text-books in the English
language. But everything is so unstable in these times of progress at
any cost, and social customs and methods of life alter so rapidly, that
a few years now suffice to change completely the face of usages which
at their inception bade fair to outlive the age—so enthusiastically
were they welcomed by the public.
In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it is but twenty
years ago since the ancestral English customs began to make way before
the newer methods, and we must look to the great impetus given to
travelling by steam traction and navigation, in order to account for
the gradual but unquestionable revolution.
In the wake of the demand came the supply. Palatial hotels were
built, sumptuous restaurants were opened, both of which offered their
customers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such establishments.
Modern society contracted the habit of partaking of light suppers in
these places, after the theatres of the Metropolis had closed; and
the well-to-do began to flock to them on Sundays, in order to give
their servants the required weekly rest. And, since restaurants allow
of observing and of being observed, since they are eminently adapted
to the exhibiting of magnificent dresses, it was not long before they
entered into the life of Fortune’s favourites.
But these new-fangled habits had to be met by novel methods of
Cookery—better adapted to the particular environment in which they were
to be practised. The admirable productions popularised by the old
Masters of the Culinary Art of the preceding Century did not become
the light and more frivolous atmosphere of restaurants; were, in fact,
ill-suited to the brisk waiters, and their customers who only had eyes
for one another.
The pompous splendour of those bygone dinners, served in the majestic
dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, by liveried footmen, was part and
parcel of the etiquette of Courts and lordly mansions.
It is eminently suited to State dinners, which are in sooth veritable
ceremonies, possessing their ritual, traditions, and—one might even
say—their high priests; but it is a mere hindrance to the modern, rapid
service. The complicated and sometimes heavy menus would be unwelcome
to the hypercritical appetites so common nowadays; hence the need of a
radical change not only in the culinary preparations themselves, but in
the arrangements of the menus, and the service.
Circumstances ordained that I should be one of the movers in this
revolution, and that I should manage the kitchens of two establishments
which have done most to bring it about. I therefore venture to suppose
that a book containing a record of all the changes which have come into
being in kitchen work—changes whereof I am in a great part author—may
have some chance of a good reception at the hands of the public,
_i.e._, at the hands of those very members of it who have profited by
the changes I refer to.
For it was only with the view of meeting the many and persistent
demands for such a record that the present volume was written.
I had at first contemplated the possibility of including only new
recipes in this formulary. But it should be borne in mind that the
changes that have transformed kitchen procedure during the last
twenty-five years could not all be classed under the head of new
recipes; for, apart from the fundamental principles of the science,
which we owe to Carême, and which will last as long as Cooking itself,
scarcely one old-fashioned method has escaped the necessary new
moulding required by modern demands. For fear of giving my work an
incomplete appearance, therefore, I had to refer to these old-fashioned
practices and to include among my new recipes those of the former which
most deserved to survive. But it should not be forgotten that in a few
years, judging from the rate at which things are going, the publication
of a fresh selection of recipes may become necessary; I hope to live
long enough to see this accomplished, in order that I may follow the
evolution, started in my time, and add a few more original creations to
those I have already had the pleasure of seeing adopted; despite the
fact that the discovery of new dishes grows daily more difficult.
But novelty is the universal cry—novelty by hook or by crook! It is an
exceedingly common mania among people of inordinate wealth to exact
incessantly new or so-called new dishes. Sometimes the demand comes
from a host whose luxurious table has exhausted all the resources
of the modern cook’s repertory, and who, having partaken of every
delicacy, and often had too much of good things, anxiously seeks new
sensations for his _blasé_ palate. Anon, we have a hostess, anxious to
outshine friends with whom she has been invited to dine, and whom she
afterwards invites to dine with her.
Novelty! It is the prevailing cry; it is imperiously demanded by
everyone.
For all that, the number of alimentary substances is comparatively
small, the number of their combinations is not infinite, and the amount
of raw material placed either by art or by nature at the disposal of a
cook does not grow in proportion to the whims of the public.
What feats of ingenuity have we not been forced to perform, at times,
in order to meet our customers’ wishes? Those only who have had charge
of a large, modern kitchen can tell the tale. Personally, I have ceased
counting the nights spent in the attempt to discover new combinations,
when, completely broken with the fatigue of a heavy day, my body ought
to have been at rest.
Yet, the Chef who has had the felicity to succeed in turning out an
original and skilful preparation approved by his public and producing
a vogue, cannot, even for a time, claim the monopoly of his secret
discovery, or derive any profit therefrom. The painter, sculptor,
writer and musician are protected by law. So are inventors. But the
chef has absolutely no redress for plagiarism on his work; on the
contrary, the more the latter is liked and appreciated, the more
will people clamour for his recipes. Many hours of hard work perhaps
underlie his latest creation, if it have reached the desired degree of
perfection.
He may have forfeited his recreation and even his night’s rest, and
have laboured without a break over his combination; and, as a reward,
he finds himself compelled, morally at least, to convey the result
of his study to the first person who asks, and who, very often,
subsequently claims the invention of the recipe—to the detriment of the
real author’s chances and reputation.
This frantic love of novelty is also responsible for many of the
difficulties attending the arrangement of menus; for very few people
know what an arduous task the composing of a perfect menu represents.
The majority—even of those who are accustomed to receptions and the
giving of dinners—suppose that a certain routine alone is necessary,
together with some culinary practice, in order to write a menu; and few
imagine that a good deal more is needed than the mere inscription of
Courses upon a slip of pasteboard.
In reality the planning of these alimentary programmes is among the
most difficult problems of our art, and it is in this very matter that
perfection is so rarely reached. In the course of more than forty
years’ experience as a chef, I have been responsible for thousands
of menus, some of which have since become classical and have ranked
among the finest served in modern times; and I can safely say, that in
spite of the familiarity such a period of time ought to give one with
the work, the setting-up of a presentable menu is rarely accomplished
without lengthy labour and much thought, and for all that the result is
not always to my satisfaction. From this it may be seen how slender are
the claims of those who, without any knowledge of our art, and quite
unaware of the various properties belonging to the substances we use,
pretend to arrange a proper menu.
However difficult the elaboration of a menu may be, it is but the first
and by no means the only difficulty which results from the rapidity
with which meals are served nowadays. The number of dishes set before
the diners being considerably reduced, and the dishes themselves having
been deprived of all the advantages which their sumptuous decorations
formerly lent them, they must recover, by means of perfection and
delicacy, sufficient in the way of quality to compensate for their
diminished bulk and reduced splendour. They must be faultless in regard
to quality; they must be savoury and light. The choice of the raw
material, therefore, is a matter demanding vast experience on the part
of the chef; for the old French adage which says that “_La sauce fait
passer le poisson_” has long since ceased to be true, and if one do not
wish to court disapprobation—often well earned—the fish should not be
in the slightest degree inferior to its accompanying sauce.
While on the subject of raw material, I should like, _en passant_, to
call attention to a misguided policy which seems to be spreading in
private houses and even in some commercial establishments; I refer to
the custom which, arising as it doubtless does from a mistaken idea
of economy, consists of entrusting the choice of kitchen provisions
to people unacquainted with the profession, and who, never having
used the goods which they have to buy, are able to judge only very
superficially of their quality or real value, and cannot form any
estimate of their probable worth after the cooking process.
If economy were verily the result of such a policy none would object
to it. But the case is exactly the reverse; for, in the matter of
provisions, as in all commercial matters, the cheapest is the dearest
in the end. To obtain good results, good material in a sufficient
quantity must be used, and, in order to obtain good material, the
latter should be selected by the person who is going to use it, and who
knows its qualities and properties. Amphitryons who set aside these
essential principles may hope in vain to found a reputation for their
tables.
It will be seen that the greater part of the titles in this work have
been left in French. I introduced, or rather promulgated this system,
because, since it is growing every day more customary to write menus
in French, it will allow those who are unacquainted with the language
to accomplish the task with greater ease. Moreover, many of the
titles—especially those of recent creations—are quite untranslatable.
As the index, however, is in English, and in every case the order
number of each recipe accompanies the number of the page where it is to
be found, no confusion can possibly arise. I have also allowed certain
French technical terms, for which there exist no English equivalents,
to remain in their original form, and these will be found explained in
a glossary at the end of the book.
I preferred to do this rather than strain the meaning of certain
English words, in order to fit them to a slightly unusual application;
and in so doing I only followed a precedent which has been established
on a more or less large scale by such authors of English books on
French cooking as Francatelli, Gouffé, Ranhoffer, etc.
But the example for such verbal adoptions was set long ago in France,
where sporting and other terms, for which no suitable native words
could be found, were borrowed wholesale from the English language, and
gallicised. It is therefore not unreasonable to apply the principle
to terms in cookery which, though plentiful and varied in France, are
scarce in this country.
To facilitate the reading of the recipes, all words which are not in
common use, and of which the explanation will be found in the Glossary,
are italicised in the text.
In concluding this preface, which, I fear, has already overreached
the bounds I intended for it, I should like to thank those of my lady
clients as well as many English epicures whose kind appreciation has
been conducive to the writing of this work. I trust they will favour
the latter with the generous consideration of which they have so
frequently given the author valuable proofs, and for which he is glad
of an opportunity of expressing his deep gratitude.
CONTENTS
PART I
FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS
CHAPTER I PAGE
FONDS DE CUISINE 1
CHAPTER II
THE LEADING WARM SAUCES 15
CHAPTER III
THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 24
CHAPTER IV
COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 48
CHAPTER V
SAVOURY JELLIES OR ASPICS 59
CHAPTER VI
THE COURT-BOUILLONS AND THE MARINADES 64
CHAPTER VII
ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 70
CHAPTER VIII
THE VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR SOUPS 87
CHAPTER IX
GARNISHING PREPARATIONS FOR RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES 92
CHAPTER X
LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 97
PART II
RECIPES AND MODES OF PROCEDURE
CHAPTER XI PAGE
HORS-D’ŒUVRES 137
CHAPTER XII
EGGS 164
CHAPTER XIII
SOUPS 197
CHAPTER XIV
FISH 260
CHAPTER XV
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT 352
CHAPTER XVI
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF POULTRY AND GAME 473
CHAPTER XVII
ROASTS AND SALADS 605
CHAPTER XVIII
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 624
CHAPTER XIX
SAVORIES 678
CHAPTER XX
ENTREMETS (SWEETS) 687
CHAPTER XXI
ICES AND SHERBETS 788
CHAPTER XXII
DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS 816
CHAPTER XXIII
FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS 820
GLOSSARY
_Abats_, stands for such butcher’s supplies as heads, hearts, livers,
kidneys, feet, &c.
_Aiguillettes_, see No. 1755.
_Ailerons_, see No. 1583.
_Amourettes_, see No. 1288.
_Anglaise_, to treat à l’Anglaise, see No. 174.
_Anglaise_, to cook à l’Anglaise, means to cook plainly in water.
_Anglaise_, a preparation of beaten eggs, oil and seasoning.
_Attereaux_, see No. 1219.
_Baba-moulds_, a kind of small deep cylindrical mould, slightly wider
at the top than at the bottom.
_Bain-Marie_, a hot-water bath in which utensils containing various
culinary preparations are immersed to keep warm, or for the
purpose of poaching or cooking.
_Barquettes_, see No. 314.
_Biscottes_, a kind of rusks.
_Blanch_, _Blanched_, see No. 273.
_Brandade_, see No. 1027.
_Brunoise-fashion_, see _Cut_ below.
_Canapés_, see No. 316.
_Caramel Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Casserole_ (_En_), see No. 250.
_Cassolette_, a kind of hot hors-d’œuvre, moulded to the shape of a
small drum.
_Cèpes_, a kind of mushroom (Boletus edulis).
_Chartreuse-fashion_, see No. 1220.
_Chiffonade_, see No. 215.
_Chinois_, a very small green candied orange.
_Chipolata_, a kind of small sausages.
_Choux_, a kind of cake made from Pâte à Choux, q.v.
_Cisel_, _Ciseled_, to cut a vegetable after the manner of a
chaff-cutting machine.
_Clothe_, _Clothed_, _Clothing_ (of moulds), see No. 916.
_Cocotte_ (_En_), see No. 250.
_Concass_, _Concassed_, to chop roughly.
_Contise_, to incise a piece of meat at stated intervals, and to
insert slices of truffle, or other substance, into each incision.
_Crépinettes_, see No. 1410.
_Croustade_, see No. 2393.
_Croûtons_, pieces of bread of various shapes and sizes, fried in
butter. In the case of aspic jelly, croûtons stand for variously
shaped pieces used in bordering dishes.
_Cut_, Brunoise-fashion = to cut a product into small dice.
_Cut_, Julienne-fashion = to cut a product into match-shaped rods.
_Cut_, Paysanne-fashion = to cut a product into triangles.
_Dariole-moulds_, small Baba-moulds, q.v.
_Darne_, see No. 784.
_Daubière_, an earthenware utensil used in the cooking of Daubes.
_Écarlate_ (_A l’_), salted meat is said to be à l’écarlate when it is
swathed in a coat of scarlet jelly.
_Escarole_, Batavia chicory.
_Feuilletés_, a kind of puffs made from puff-paste.
_Flute_ (French, soup), a long crisp roll of bread.
_Fondue_, (1) a cheese preparation; (2) a pulpy state to which such
vegetables as tomatoes, sorrel, &c., are reduced by cooking.
_Fumet_, a kind of essence extracted from fish, game, &c.
_Galette_, a large quoit, made from puff-paste or short-paste, &c.
_Gaufrette_, a special wafer.
_Génoise_, see No. 2376.
_Gild_, _Gilding_, _Gilded_ (1) to cover an object with beaten eggs,
by means of a brush; (2) to give a golden sheen to objects by
means of heat.
_Gratin_, _Gratined_, see No. 268 to 272 inclusive.
_Hatelet_, an ornamental skewer; the word sometimes stands for
Attereaux.
_Julienne_, Julienne-fashion, see _Cut_.
_Langoustine_, a small variety of the Spiny Lobster.
_Large-Ball Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Large-Crack Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Large-Thread Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Macédoine_, a mixture of early-season vegetables or fruit.
_Madeleine-mould_, a mould in the shape of a narrow scallop-shell.
_Manied_ (said of butter), see No. 151.
_Marinade_, see No. 168.
_Meringue_, see No. 2382. _Meringued_ = coated with meringue.
_Mirepoix_, see No. 228.
_Mise-en-place_, a general name given to those elementary preparations
which are constantly resorted to during the various stages of
most culinary operations.
_Morue_, Newfoundland or Iceland salt-cod.
_Mousses_, a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish, meat,
poultry, game, etc., and sweets, moulded in large moulds in
sufficient quantities for several people.
_Mousselines_, same as above, but moulded in small quantities at a
time, enough for one person.
_Mousserons_, a kind of mushroom.
_Nappe Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Orgeat_, a beverage made from syrup and almonds.
_Oxalis_, a Mexican vegetable, allied to sorrel, of which the roots
principally are eaten.
_Paillettes au Parmesan_, see No. 2322.
_Palmettes_, palm-shaped pieces of puff-paste, used in decorating.
_Panés à l’Anglaise_, treated à l’Anglaise, see _Anglaise_.
_Pannequets_, see No. 2403.
_Papillote_, see No. 1259.
_Pâte à Choux_, see No. 2373.
_Paupiette_, a strip of chicken, of fish fillet, or other meat,
garnished with forcemeat, rolled to resemble a scroll and cooked.
_Paysanne-fashion_, see _Cut_.
_Pluches_, the shreds of chervil, used for soups.
_Poële_, _Poëling_, see No. 250.
_Poêle_ (_A la_), see No. 395.
_Pralin_, see No. 2352.
_Pralined_, having been treated with Pralin, q.v.
_Printanier_ (Eng. Vernal), a name given to a garnish of early-season
vegetables, cut to various shapes.
_Profiterolles_, see No. 218.
_Râble_, the back of a hare.
_Ravioli_, see No. 2296.
_Ribbon Stage_, see No. 2376.
_Rissole_, to fry brown.
_Salpicon_, a compound of various products, cut into dice, and,
generally, cohered with sauce or forcemeat.
_Sauté_, _Sautéd_, a process of cooking described under No. 251.
_Sauté_, a qualifying term applied to dishes treated in the way
described under No. 251.
_Savarin-mould_, an even, crown-shaped mould.
_Small-Ball Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Small-Crack Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Small-Thread Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below.
_Soufflé_, name given to a class of light, hot or cold preparations of
fish, meat, poultry, game, etc., and sweets, to which the whites
of eggs are usually added if the preparation is served hot, and
to which whisked cream is added if the preparation is served
cold.
_Soup-Flute_, see _Flute_.
_Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_:—
Small-Thread }
Large-Thread }
Small-Ball }
Large-Ball } See No. 2344.
Small-Crack }
Large-Crack }
Caramel }
Nappe, see No. 2955.
_Subrics_, see No. 2137.
_Suprême_, a name given to the fillet of the breast of a fowl. The
term has been extended to certain of the best parts of fish,
game, etc.
_Terrine_, a patty.
_Terrine à Pâté_, a special utensil in which patties are cooked.
_Tomatéd._ Preparations are said to be tomatéd when they are mixed
with enough tomato purée for the shade and flavour of the latter
to be distinctly perceptible in them.
_Vesiga_, the dried spine-marrow of the sturgeon.
_Zest_, the outermost, coloured, glossy film of the rind of an orange
or lemon.
PART I
FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS OF COOKING
CHAPTER I
FONDS DE CUISINE
Before undertaking the description of the different kinds of dishes
whose recipes I purpose giving in this work, it will be necessary to
reveal the groundwork whereon these recipes are built. And, although
this has already been done again and again, and is wearisome in the
extreme, a text-book on cooking that did not include it would be not
only incomplete, but in many cases incomprehensible.
Notwithstanding the fact that it is the usual procedure, in culinary
matters, to insist upon the importance of the part played by stock, I
feel compelled to refer to it at the outset of this work, and to lay
even further stress upon what has already been written on the subject.
Indeed, stock is everything in cooking, at least in French cooking.
Without it, nothing can be done. If one’s stock is good, what remains
of the work is easy; if, on the other hand, it is bad or merely
mediocre, it is quite hopeless to expect anything approaching a
satisfactory result.
The workman mindful of success, therefore, will naturally direct his
attention to the faultless preparation of his stock, and, in order
to achieve this result, he will find it necessary not merely to make
use of the freshest and finest goods, but also to exercise the most
scrupulous care in their preparation, for, in cooking, care is half
the battle. Unfortunately, no theories, no formulæ, and no recipes,
however well written, can take the place of practical experience in the
acquisition of a full knowledge concerning this part of the work—the
most important, the most essential, and certainly the most difficult
part.
In the matter of stock it is, above all, necessary to have a sufficient
quantity of the finest materials at one’s disposal. The master or
mistress of a house who stints in this respect thereby deliberately
forfeits his or her right to make any remark whatsoever to the _chef_
concerning his work, for, let the talent or merits of the latter be
what they may, they are crippled by insufficient or inferior material.
It is just as absurd to exact excellent cooking from a _chef_ whom one
provides with defective or scanty goods, as to hope to obtain wine from
a bottled decoction of logwood.
=The Principal Kinds of Fonds de Cuisine (Foundation Sauces and Stocks)=
The principal kinds of fonds de cuisine are:—
1. Ordinary and clarified consommés.
2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of
thickened gravies and of brown sauces.
3. White stock, basis of white sauces.
4. Fish stock.
5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements
of small sauces.
6. The various glazes: meat, game, and poultry.
7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and
Hollandaise.
8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking.
To these kinds of stock, which, in short, represent the buttresses of
the culinary edifice, must now be added the following preparations,
which are, in a measure, the auxiliaries of the above:—
1. The roux, the cohering element in sauces.
2. The “Mirepoix” and “Matignon” aromatic and flavouring elements.
3. The “_Court-Bouillon_” and the “_Blancs_.”
4. The various stuffings.
5. The _marinades_.
6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c.
(“Duxelle,” “Duchesse,” “Dauphine,” _Pâte à choux_, frying
batters, various _Salpicons_, Profiterolles, Royales, Œufs filés,
Diablotins, Pastes, &c.).
1—ORDINARY OR WHITE CONSOMMÉ
_Quantities for making Four Quarts._
3 lbs. of shin of beef.
3 lbs. of lean beef.
1½ lbs. of fowls’ carcases.
1 lb. of carrots.
½ lb. of turnips.
¾ lb. of leeks and 1 stick of celery.
¼ lb. of parsnips.
1 medium-sized onion with a clove stuck in it.
_Preparation._—Put the meat into a stock-pot of suitable dimensions,
after having previously strung it together; add the poultry carcase,
five quarts of water, and one-half oz. of grey salt. Place the
stock-pot on a moderate fire in such a manner that it may not boil too
quickly, and remember to stir the meat from time to time. Under the
influence of the heat, the water gradually reaches the interior of
the meat, where, after having dissolved the liquid portions, it duly
combines with them. These liquid portions contain a large proportion
of albumen, and as the temperature of the water rises this substance
has a tendency to coagulate. It also increases in volume, and, by
virtue of its lightness, escapes from the water and accumulates on the
surface in the form of scum. Carefully remove this scum as it forms,
and occasionally add a little cold water before the boil is reached in
order that, the latter being retarded, a complete expulsion of the scum
may be effected. The clearness of the consommé largely depends upon the
manner in which this skimming has been carried out. Then the vegetable
garnishing is added. The scum from these is removed as in the previous
case, and the edge of the stock-pot should be carefully wiped to the
level of the fluid, so as to free it from the deposit which has been
formed there. The stock-pot is then moved to a corner of the fire where
it may continue cooking slowly for four or five hours. At the end of
this time it should be taken right away from the fire, and, after half
a pint of cold water has been added to its contents, it should be left
to rest a few minutes with a view to allowing the grease to accumulate
on the surface of the liquid, whence it must be carefully removed
before the consommé is strained. This last operation is effected by
means of a very fine strainer, placed on the top of a white tureen
(clean and wide), which should then be placed in a draught to hasten
the cooling of the consommé. The tureen should not on any account be
covered, and this more particularly in summer, when rapid cooling is a
precautionary measure against fermentation.
=Remarks upon the Different Causes which Combine to Influence the
Quality of a Consommé=
It will be seen that I have not made any mention in the above formula
of the meat and the vegetables which have helped to make the consommé,
my reason being that it is preferable to remove them from the stock-pot
only after the broth has been strained, so as not to run the risk of
disturbing the latter.
The quality of the meat goes a long way towards settling the quality of
the consommé. In order that the latter be perfect, it is essential that
the meat used should be that of comparatively old animals whose flesh
is well set and rich in flavour. This is a _sine quâ non_, and the lack
of meat coming from old animals in England accounts for the difficulty
attaching to the making of a good consommé and savoury sauces in this
country. Cattle in England are killed at an age varying from three to
four years at the most; the meat thus obtained has no equal for the
purpose of roasts and grills, and anything approaching it is rarely
met with on the Continent. But when this same meat is used for boiling
or braising, it does not contain enough juice or flavour to yield a
satisfactory result.
This shortcoming is furthermore aggravated by a fault that many commit
who are employed in the making of consommés and stock. The fault in
question consists in cooking the bones simultaneously with the meat.
Now to extract that gelatinous element from bone which produces the
mellowness characteristic of all good consommés, it is necessary that
the gelatigenous bodies should be cooked for twelve hours at least, and
even after that time has elapsed they are still not entirely spent.
On the Continent the quality of the meat easily compensates for this
technical error, but such is certainly not the case in England, where
five hours’ stewing only results in a flat and insipid consommé.
I therefore believe that, in the case of either consommé or stock, the
formulæ of which I shall give later, it would be advisable for the
bones to stew at least twelve hours, and this only after they have
been well broken up, while the quantity of water used should be so
calculated as to suffice exactly for the immersion of the meat that
must follow. The contents of this first stock-pot should include half
of the vegetables mentioned, and the consommé thus obtained, after
having been strained and cooled, will take the place of the water in
the recipe, in accordance with the directions I have given above.
=The Uses of White Consommé=
White consommé is used in the preparation of clarified consommés, in
which case it undergoes a process of clarifying, the directions for
which will be given later. It also serves as the liquor for thick
soups, poached fowls, &c. It must be limpid, as colourless as possible,
and very slightly salted, for, whatever the use may be for which it is
intended, it has to undergo a process of concentration.
2—THE PREPARATION OF CLARIFIED CONSOMMÉ FOR CLEAR SOUPS
_Quantities for making four quarts._—Five quarts of ordinary consommé,
one and one-half lbs. of very lean beef, the white of an egg, one
fowl’s carcase (roasted if possible). First, mince the beef and pound
it in a mortar with the fowl’s carcase and the white of egg, adding
a little cold white consommé. Put the whole into a tall, narrow, and
thick-bottomed stewpan; then gradually add the cold, white broth, from
which all grease has been removed, that the whole may be well mixed.
Then the stewpan may be put on the fire, and its contents thoroughly
stirred, for fear of their burning at the bottom. When boiling-point
is reached, move the stewpan to a corner of the fire, so that the
soup may only simmer, for anything approaching the boil would disturb
the contents. A good hour should be enough to properly finish the
consommé, and any longer time on the fire would be rather prejudicial
than the reverse, as it would probably impair the flavour of the
preparation. Now carefully remove what little grease may have collected
on the surface of the consommé, and strain the latter through muslin
into another clean stewpan. It is now ready for the addition of the
garnishes that are to form part of it, which I shall enumerate in due
course.
=Remarks upon Clarifications=
For clarified consommés, even more than for the ordinary kind, it
is eminently advisable that the meat should be that of old animals.
Indeed, it is safe to say that one lb. of meat coming from an animal of
eight years will yield much better consommé than two lbs. would, coming
from a fattened animal of about three or four years. The consommé will
be stronger, mellower, and certainly more tasty, as the flesh of young
animals has absolutely no richness of flavour.
It will be seen that I do not refer to any vegetable for the
clarification. If the white consommé has been well carried out, it
should be able to dispense with all supplementary flavouring, and,
the customary error of cooks being rather to overdo the quantity of
vegetables—even to the extent of disguising the natural aroma of
the consommé—I preferred to entirely abandon the idea of vegetable
garnishes in clarifications, and thus avoid a common stumbling-block.
3—CHICKEN CONSOMMÉ
White chicken consommé is prepared in exactly the same way as ordinary
white consommé. There need only be added to the meat, the quantity of
which may be lessened, an old hen or a cock, slightly coloured on the
spit or in the oven.
For the clarification, the quantity of roast fowl-carcases used may be
increased, provided the latter be not too fat. The process, however, is
the same as in the clarification of ordinary consommés.
The colour of chicken consommé should be lighter than that of the
ordinary kind—namely, a light, amber yellow, limpid and warm.
4—FISH CONSOMMÉ
These consommés are rarely used, for Lenten soups with a fish basis are
generally thick soups, for the preparation of which the fish _fumet_
whereof I shall give the formula later (Formula No. 11) should avail.
Whenever there is no definite reason for the use of an absolutely
Lenten consommé, it would be advisable to resort to one of the ordinary
kind, and to finish off the same by means of a good fish essence
extracted from the bones of a sole or whiting. An excellent consommé
is thus obtained, more palatable and less flat than the plain fish
consommé.
If, however, one were obliged to make a plain fish consommé, the
following procedure should be adopted:—
=Clarification of Fish Consommé=
_Quantities for making Four Quarts._—Four and one-half quarts of
ordinary fish _fumet_ having a decided taste; one-half lb. of good
fresh caviare, or pressed caviare.
_Mode of Procedure._—Pound the caviare and mix the resulting pulp with
the cold fish _fumet_. Put the whole into a saucepan, place it on the
open fire, and stir with a spatula until the contents reach the boil.
Then move the saucepan to a corner of the fire, and let the consommé
simmer gently for twenty minutes, after which strain it through muslin
with great caution, and keep it well covered and in the warmth, so as
to prevent the formation of a gelatinous film on the surface.
Fish consommés are greatly improved by the addition of such aromatics
as saffron or curry, both of which considerably add to their quality.
5—GAME CONSOMMÉ
The necks, breasts, and shoulders of venison and of hare, old wild
rabbits, old pheasants, and old partridges may be used in the
production of game consommés. An ordinary consommé may likewise be
made, in which half the beef can be replaced by veal, and to which may
be added, while clarifying, a succulent game essence. This last method
is even preferable when dealing with feathered game, but in either case
it is essential that the meat used should be half-roasted beforehand,
in order to strengthen the _fumet_.
The formula that I give below must therefore only be looked upon as
a model, necessarily alterable according to the resources at one’s
disposal, the circumstances, and the end in view.
_Quantities for making Four Quarts of Plain Game Consommé._
3 lbs. of neck, shoulder, or breast of venison.
1½ lbs. of hare-trimmings.
1 old pheasant or 2 partridges.
4 oz. of sliced carrots, browned in butter.
½ lb. of mushrooms, likewise browned in butter.
1 medium-sized leek and 2 sticks of celery.
1 bunch of herbs with extra thyme and bay leaves.
1 onion, oven-browned, with 2 cloves stuck into it.
_Liquor._—Five and one-half quarts of water.
_Seasoning._—One oz. of salt and a few peppercorns, these to be added
ten minutes previous to straining the consommé.
_Time allowed for cooking._—Three hours.
_Mode of Procedure._—Proceed in exactly the same way as for ordinary
consommés, taking care only to half-roast the meat, as I pointed out
above, before putting it in the stewpan.
=The Clarification of Game Consommés=
The constituents of the clarification of game consommés vary according
to the kind of consommé desired. If it is to have a partridge flavour,
one partridge should be allowed for each quart of the consommé, whereas
if its flavour is to be that of the pheasant, half an old pheasant will
be required per each quart of the liquid. Lastly, in the case of plain
game consommés, one lb. of lean venison, hare, or wild rabbit should be
allowed for each quart of the required consommé.
_Mode of Procedure._—Whatever be the kind of game used, the latter must
be thoroughly boned and the meat well pounded, together with the white
of an egg per four quarts of consommé. About two oz. per quart of dried
mushrooms should now be added if they can be procured, while the bones
and the remains or carcases of game should be browned in the oven and
completely drained of all grease. The whole can now be mixed with the
cold game consommé. The clarification is then put over an open fire
(stirring incessantly the while), and as soon as the boil is reached
the saucepan must be moved to a corner of the fire, where its contents
may gently boil for three-quarters of an hour. The fat should then be
removed, and the consommé strained through muslin, after which cover up
until wanted.
6—SPECIAL CONSOMMÉS FOR SUPPERS
The consommés whose formulæ I have just given are intended more
particularly for dinners. They are always finished off by some kind of
garnish, which, besides lending them an additional touch of flavour,
gives them their special and definite character when they are served up
in the diner’s plate.
But the case is otherwise with the consommés served for suppers. These,
being only served in cups, either hot or cold, do not allow of any
garnishing, since they are to be _drunk_ at table. They must therefore
be perfect in themselves, delicate, and quite clear.
These special consommés are made in a similar manner to the others,
though it is needful to slightly increase the quantity of meat used
for the clarification, and to add to that clarification the particular
flavour mentioned on the _menu_—to wit, a few stalks of celery, if the
consommé is a celery one; a small quantity of curry, if the consommé is
given as “à l’Indienne”; or a few old roast partridges if it is to be
termed “Consommé au fumet de perdreau”; and so on.
The means by which one may vary the aroma of consommés are legion, but
it is highly important, what aroma soever be used, that the latter be
not too pronounced. It ought only to lend a distinctive and, at the
same time, subtle finish to the consommé, which, besides sharpening the
latter, should increase its succulence.
When the consommé is served cold it ought to have the qualities of an
extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely firm; but when it is
too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of perfection and succulence
to the palate of the consumer which the latter expects. When too firm
and too gelatinous it is positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is
to be relished, it should be just right in respect of consistency.
7—BROWN STOCK OR “ESTOUFFADE”
_Quantities for making Four Quarts._
4 lbs. of shin of beef (flesh and bone).
4 lbs. of shin of veal (flesh and bone).
½ lb. of lean, raw ham.
½ lb. of fresh pork rind, rinsed in tepid water.
¾ lb. of minced carrots, browned in butter.
¾ lb. of minced onions, browned in butter.
1 faggot, containing a little parsley, a stick of celery, a small
sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.
_Preparation._—Bone and string the meat, and keep it in readiness for
the morrow. Break the bones as finely as possible, and, after having
besprinkled them with a little stock-fat, brown them in an oven; also
stir them repeatedly. When they are slightly browned, put them in a
conveniently large saucepan with the carrots, the onions, and the
faggot. Add five quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open
fire to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe the
edge of the saucepan; put the lid half on, and allow the stock to cook
gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove the fat; pass the liquid
through a sieve, and let it cool.
This being done, put the meat in a saucepan just large enough to hold
it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and clear it entirely of the
latter. Add half a pint of the prepared stock, cover the saucepan,
and let the meat simmer on the side of the fire until the stock is
almost entirely reduced. Meanwhile the meat should have been repeatedly
turned, that it may be equally affected throughout. Now pour the
remainder of the stock, prepared from bones, into the saucepan, bring
the whole to the boil, and then move the saucepan to a corner of the
fire for the boiling to continue very slowly and regularly with the lid
off. As soon as the meat is well cooked the fat should be removed from
the stock, and the latter should be strained or rubbed through a sieve,
after which it should be put aside to be used when required.
_Remarks Relative to the Making of Brown Stock._—Instead of stringing
the meat after having boned it, if time presses, it may be cut into
large cubes before browning. In this case one hour and a half would
suffice to cook it and to extract all its juice.
Whether brown or white, stock should never be salted, because it is
never served in its original state. It is either reduced in order to
make glazes or sauces—in which case the concentration answers the
purpose of seasoning—or else it is used to cook meat which must be
salted before being cooked, and which, therefore, imparts the necessary
salt to its surrounding liquor.
Brown stock ought to be the colour of fine burnt amber, and it must be
transparent. It is used in making meat-glazes after reduction, also to
moisten meat for braising and to prepare brown sauces.
8—BROWN GAME STOCK
There is no difference between the game consommés and game stock, or,
otherwise stated, ordinary game consommé and brown game stock are one
and the same thing. The distinction lies in the ultimate use of this
preparation; it is clarified, as we have shown (Formula 5), if it be
intended for a clear soup, and it is used in its original state if it
is to be used for a thick game soup, for a sauce, or for reducing.
9—BROWN VEAL STOCK
Brown veal stock requires the same quantities of shin and trimmings of
veal as white veal stock (Formula 10). The time allowed for cooking is,
however, a little shorter, and this operation may be completed within
eight hours. This stock is mostly used as the liquor for poultry and
poëled game, while it may also serve in the preparation of thickened
veal stock. Being quite neutral in taste, it lends itself to all
purposes, and readily takes up the aroma of the meat with which it
may happen to be combined. It is admirably suited to the poaching of
quails, and nothing can supplant it in this particular.
10—WHITE VEAL STOCK, AND POULTRY STOCK
_Quantities for making Four Quarts._
8 lbs. of shin of veal, or lean and fresh veal trimmings.
1 or 2 fowls’ carcases, raw if they are handy.
12 oz. of carrots.
6 oz. of onions stuck with a clove.
5½ quarts of cold water.
4 oz. of leeks strung with a stick of celery.
1 faggot, including 1 oz. of parsley, 1 bay leaf, and a small sprig
of thyme.
_Preparation._—Bone the shins, string the meat, break up the bones as
small as possible, and put them in a stewpan with the water. Place on
an open fire, allow to boil, skim carefully, and then move to a side of
the fire to cook very gently for five hours. At the end of this time
put the stock into another stewpan, add the meat and the vegetables,
add water, if necessary, to keep the quantity of liquid at five quarts,
let it boil, and allow it to cook slowly for another three hours, after
which remove all grease from the stock, pass the latter through a fine
strainer or a colander, and put it aside until wanted.
_Remarks upon White Stock._—One should contrive to make this stock
as gelatinous as possible. It is therefore an indispensable measure
that the bones be well broken up and cooked for at least eight hours.
Veal never yields such clear stock as beef; nevertheless, the consommé
obtained from veal should not be turbid. It must, on the contrary, be
kept as clear and as white as possible.
_Poultry Stock_ is made by adding two old fowls to the above veal
stock, and these should be put into the liquor with the meat.
=Fish Stock=
11—WHITE FISH STOCK
_Quantities for making Four Quarts._
4 lbs. of trimmings and bones of sole or whiting.
½ lb. of sliced, blanched onions.
2 oz. of parsley, root or stalks.
½ bottle of white wine.
_Preparation._—Butter the bottom of a thick, tall stewpan, put in the
blanched onions and the parsley-stalks, and upon these aromatics lay
the fish remains. Add the juice of a lemon, cover the stewpan, put it
on the fire, and allow the fish to exude its essence, jerking the pan
at intervals. Moisten, in the first place, with the white wine; then,
with the lid off, reduce the liquid to about half. Now add four quarts
of cold water, bring to the boil, skim, and then leave to cook for
twenty minutes, only, on a moderate fire. The time allowed is ample
for the purpose of extracting the aromatic and gelatinous properties
contained in the bones, and a more protracted stewing would only impair
the savour of the stock.
_Remarks upon White Fish Stock._—The formula which I give above
diverges considerably from that commonly used, for, as a rule, fish
stock is diluted far too much, and is stewed for much too long a
time. I have observed that fish stock may be greatly improved by
rapid cooking, and it was this consideration that led me to dilute it
scantily, so as to avoid prolonged reduction.
It is likewise necessary to remember that in order to make perfect fish
stock, only the sole or whiting should be used. In a case of emergency,
however, _i.e._, if the supply of the latter were to run short, a
quarter of their weight of brill bones might be added to them. But all
other kinds of fish should be avoided in the preparation.
12—FISH STOCK WITH RED WINE
This stock is comparatively rarely used, because, in practice, it is
naturally obtained in the cooking of the fish itself, as, for instance,
in the case of the “Matelotes.” Be this as it may, with the recent
incursion of a custom which seems to demand, ever more and more, the
serving of fish without bones, the following formula will be worthy of
interest, as it is likely that its need will henceforth be felt with
increasing urgency.
Fish _fumet_ with red wine may be prepared from all fresh-water fish,
as well as from the remains of sole, whiting, chicken-turbot, and
brill. It is generally better, however, to have recourse to the bones
and remains of that fish which happens to be constituting the dish—that
is to say, the bones and trimmings of sole in a stock for fillet of
sole, the bones and trimmings of a chicken-turbot in a _fumet_ for a
chicken-turbot, and so on. The preparatory formula remains the same,
whatever the kind of fish used may be.
_Quantities for making Four Quarts of_ Fumet _with Red Wine_.—Four lbs.
of bones, heads, and trimmings of the fish to be served;
three-quarters lb. of minced white onions; three oz. of parsley stalks,
two bay leaves, four small sprigs of thyme, and four cloves of garlic;
two bottles of red wine and four pints of water.
_Mode of Procedure._—Put all the above-mentioned ingredients in a thick
and tall stewpan, boil, skim carefully, and allow to cook twenty to
thirty minutes on a moderate fire; then strain the stock through a
colander into a tureen, to be used when required.
_Remarks upon Fish Stock with Red Wine._—This stock stands reduction
far better than white fish stock. Nevertheless, I urge the advisability
of trying to obtain the required quantity without reduction. In its
preparation, one may use some mushroom parings, as in the case of white
stock, if these are handy, and they will be found to lend an agreeable
flavour to the fish _fumet_.
13—VARIOUS ESSENCES
As their name implies, essences are stock which hold a large proportion
of a substance’s aroma in a concentrated form. They are, in fact,
ordinary stock, only less diluted, with the idea of intensifying the
flavour of the treated ingredients; hence their utility is _nil_ if
the stock which they are intended to finish has been reasonably and
judiciously treated. It is infinitely simpler to make savoury and
succulent stock in the first place than to produce a mediocre stock,
and finally complete it by a specially prepared essence. The result in
the first instance is better, and there is economy of time and material.
The most one can do is to recommend, in certain circumstances, the use
of essences extracted from particularly well-flavoured products, as,
for instance, mushrooms, truffles, morels, and celery. But it would be
well to remember that, nine times out of ten, it is preferable to add
the product itself to the stock during the preparation of the same than
to prepare essences.
For this reason I do not think it necessary to dilate upon the subject
of essences, the need of which should not be felt in good cooking.
14—VARIOUS GLAZES
The various glazes of meat, fowl, game, and fish are merely stock
reduced to the point of viscosity. Their uses are legion. Occasionally
they serve in decking dishes with a brilliant and unctuous coating
which makes them sightly; at other times they may help to strengthen
the consistence of a sauce or other culinary preparation, while again
they may be used as sauces proper after they have been correctly
creamed or buttered.
Glazes are distinguished from essences by the fact that the latter
are only prepared with the object of extracting all the flavour
of the product under treatment, whereas the former are, on the
contrary, constituted by the whole base of the substance itself.
They therefore have not only its savour, but also its succulence and
mellowness, whereby they are superior to the essences, and cooking can
but be improved by substituting them for the latter. Nevertheless,
many _chefs_ of the old school do not permit the use of glazes in
culinary preparations, or, rather, they are of opinion that each
cooking operation should produce them on its own account, and thus be
sufficient unto itself. Certainly, the theory is correct when neither
time nor cost is limited. But nowadays the establishments are scarce
where these theories may be applied, and, indeed, if one does not make
an abuse of glazes, and if they be prepared with care, their use gives
excellent results, while they lend themselves admirably to the very
complex demands of modern customs.
15—MEAT GLAZE
Meat glaze is made by reducing brown stock (Formula 7) in a large
stewpan upon an open fire. As often as the stock is appreciably
reduced, during ebullition, it may be transferred to smaller stewpans,
taking care to strain it through muslin at each change of stewpan. The
glaze may be considered sufficiently reduced when it evenly veneers
a withdrawn spoon. The fire used for reducing should gradually wane
as the concentration progresses, and the last phase must be effected
slowly and on a moderate fire.
When it is necessary to obtain a lighter and clearer glaze, the
brown veal stock (Formula No. 9) should be reduced instead of the
“_Estouffade_.”
16—POULTRY GLAZE
Reduce the poultry base indicated in Formula 10, and proceed in
exactly the same way as for meat glaze (Formula 15).
17—GAME GLAZE
Use the game base (Formula 8), and proceed as for meat glaze (Formula
15).
18—FISH GLAZE
This glaze is used less often than the preceding ones. As it is only
used to intensify the savour of sauces, it is sufficient for this
purpose to prepare a white fish stock (Formula 11), which may be
diluted with the stock already prepared, and which may be reduced
according to the requirements. The name of fish _fumet_ or fish essence
is given to this preparation; its flavour is more delicate than that of
fish glaze, which it replaces with advantage.
CHAPTER II
THE LEADING WARM SAUCES
Warm sauces are of two kinds: the leading sauces, also called “mother
sauces,” and the small sauces, which are usually derived from the
first-named, and are generally only modified forms thereof. Cooking
stock only includes the leading sauces, but I shall refer to the small
hot sauces and the cold sauces at the end of the auxiliary stock.
Experience, which plays such an important part in culinary work,
is nowhere so necessary as in the preparation of sauces, for not
only must the latter flatter the palate, but they must also vary in
savour, consistence and viscosity, in accordance with the dishes they
accompany. By this means, in a well-ordered dinner, each dish differs
from the preceding ones and from those that follow.
Furthermore, sauces must, through the perfection of their preparation,
obey the general laws of a rational hygiene, wherefore they should be
served and combined in such wise as to allow of easy digestion by the
frequently disordered stomachs of their consumers.
Carême was quite justified in pluming himself upon the fact that during
his stay at the English Court his master—the Prince Regent—had assured
him that he (Carême) was the only one among those who had served his
Highness whose cooking had been at all easy of digestion. Carême
had grasped the essential truth that the richer the cooking is, the
more speedily do the stomach and palate tire of it. And, indeed, it
is a great mistake to suppose that, in order to do good cooking, it
is necessary to be prodigal in one’s use of all things. In reality,
practice dictates fixed and regular quantities, and from these one
cannot diverge without upsetting the hygienic and sapid equilibrium on
which the value of a sauce depends. The requisite quantities of each
ingredient must, of course, be used, but neither more nor less, as
there are objections to either extreme.
Any sauce whatsoever should be smooth, light (without being liquid),
glossy to the eye, and decided in taste. When these conditions are
fulfilled it is always easy to digest even for tired stomachs.
An essential point in the making of sauces is the seasoning, and it
would be impossible for me to lay sufficient stress on the importance
of not indulging in any excess in this respect. It too often happens
that the insipidness of a badly-made sauce is corrected by excessive
seasoning; this is an absolutely deplorable practice.
Seasoning should be so calculated as to be merely a complementary
factor, which, though it must throw the savour of dishes into relief,
may not form a recognisable part of them. If it be excessive, it
modifies and even destroys the taste peculiar to every dish—to the
great detriment of the latter and of the consumer’s health.
It is therefore desirable that each sauce should possess its own
special flavour, well defined, the result of the combined flavours of
all its ingredients.
If, in the making of sauces, one allowed oneself to be guided by those
principles which are the very foundation of good cookery, the general
denunciation of sauces by the medical faculty would be averted; and
this denunciation no sauce deserves if it be carefully prepared,
conformably with the laws prescribed by practice and its resulting
experience.
=The Roux=
The roux being the cohering element of leading sauces, it is necessary
to reveal its preparation and constituents before giving one’s
attention to the latter.
Three kinds of roux are used—namely, brown roux, for brown sauces; pale
roux, for veloutés, or cream sauces; and white roux, for white sauces
and Béchamel.
19—BROWN ROUX
_Quantities for making about One lb._—Eight oz. of clarified butter,
nine oz. of best-quality flour.
_Preparation._—Mix the flour and butter in a very thick stewpan, and
put it on the side of the fire or in a moderate oven. Stir the mixture
repeatedly so that the heat may be evenly distributed throughout the
whole of its volume.
The time allowed for the cooking of brown roux cannot be precisely
determined, as it depends upon the degree of heat employed. The more
intense the latter, the speedier will be the cooking, while the
stirring will of necessity be more rapid. Brown roux is known to be
cooked when it has acquired a fine, light brown colour, and when it
exudes a scent resembling that of the hazel-nut, characteristic of
baked flour.
It is very important that brown roux should not be cooked too rapidly.
As a matter of fact, among the various constituent elements of flour,
the starch alone acts as the cohering principle. This starch is
contained in little cells, which tightly constrain it, but which are
sufficiently porous to permit the percolation of liquid and fatty
substances. Under the influence of moderate heat and the infiltered
butter, the cells burst through the swelling of the starch, and the
latter thereupon completely combines with the butter to form a mass
capable of absorbing six times its own weight of liquid when cooked.
When the cooking takes place with a very high initial heat the starch
gets burned within its shrivelled cells, and swelling is then possible
only in those parts which have been least burned.
The cohering principle is thus destroyed, and double or treble the
quantity of roux becomes necessary in order to obtain the required
consistency. But this excess of roux in the sauce chokes it up without
binding it, and prevents it from despumating or becoming clear. At the
same time, the cellulose and the burnt starch lend a bitterness to the
sauce of which no subsequent treatment can rid it.
From the above it follows that, starch being the only one from among
the different constituents of flour which really effects the coherence
of sauces, there would be considerable advantage in preparing roux
either from a pure form of it, or from substances with kindred
properties, such as fecula, arrow-root, &c. It is only habit that
causes flour to be still used as the cohering element of roux, and,
indeed, the hour is not so far distant when the advantages of the
changes I propose will be better understood—changes which have been
already recommended by Favre in his dictionary.
With a roux well made from the purest starch—in which case the volume
of starch and butter would equal about half that of the flour and
butter of the old method—and with strong and succulent brown stock, a
Spanish sauce or Espagnole may be made in one hour. And this sauce will
be clearer, more brilliant, and better than that of the old processes,
which needed three days at least to despumate.
20—PALE ROUX
The quantities are the same as for brown roux, but cooking must cease
as soon as the colour of the roux begins to change, and before the
appearance of any colouring whatsoever.
The observations I made relative to brown roux, concerning the cohering
element, apply also to pale roux.
21—WHITE ROUX
Same quantities as for brown and pale roux, but the time of cooking is
limited to a few minutes, as it is only needful, in this case, to do
away with the disagreeable taste of raw flour which is typical of those
sauces whose roux has not been sufficiently cooked.
22—BROWN SAUCE OR ESPAGNOLE
_Quantities Required for Four Quarts._—One lb. of brown roux dissolved
in a tall, thick saucepan with six quarts of brown stock or estouffade.
Put the saucepan on an open fire, and stir the sauce with a spatula or
a whisk, and do not leave it until it begins to boil. Then remove the
spatula, and put the saucepan on a corner of the fire, letting it lean
slightly to one side with the help of a wedge, so that boiling may only
take place at one point, and that the inert principles thrown out by
the sauce during despumation may accumulate high up in the saucepan,
whence they can be easily removed as they collect.
It is advisable during despumation to change saucepans twice or even
three times, straining every time, and adding a quart of brown stock
to replace what has evaporated. At length, when the sauce begins to
get lighter, and about two hours before finally straining it, two lbs.
of fresh tomatoes, roughly cut up, should be added, or an equivalent
quantity of tomato purée, and about one lb. of _Mirepoix_, prepared
according to Formula No. 228. The sauce is then reduced so as to
measure four quarts when strained, after which it is poured into a wide
tureen, and must be kept in motion until quite cool lest a skin should
form on its surface.
The time required for the despumation of an Espagnole varies according
to the quality of the stock and roux. We saw above that one hour
sufficed for a concentrated stock and starch roux, in which case the
Mirepoix and the tomato are inserted from the first. But much more time
is required if one is dealing with a roux whose base is flour. In the
latter case six hours should be allowed, provided one have excellent
stock and well-made roux. More often than not this work is done in two
stages, thus: after having despumated the Espagnole for six or eight
hours the first day, it is put on the fire the next day with half its
volume of stock, and it is left to despumate a few hours more before it
is finally strained.
Summing up my opinion on this subject, I can only give my colleagues
the following advice, based upon long experience:—
1. Only use strong, clear stock with a decided taste.
2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By
following these two rules, a clear, brilliant, and consistent Espagnole
will always be obtained in a fairly short time.
23—HALF GLAZE
This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of perfection by
final despumation. It is obtained by reducing one quart of Espagnole
and one quart of first-class brown stock until its volume is reduced
to nine-tenths of a quart. It is then strained into a _bain-marie_ of
convenient dimensions, and it is finished, away from the fire, with
one-tenth of a quart of excellent sherry. Cover the _bain-marie_, or
slightly butter the top to avoid the formation of a skin. This sauce is
the base of all the smaller brown sauces.
24—LENTEN ESPAGNOLE
Practical men are not agreed as to the need of Lenten Espagnole. The
ordinary Espagnole being really a neutral sauce in flavour, it is quite
simple to give it the necessary flavour by the addition of the required
quantity of fish _fumet_. It is only, therefore, when one wishes to
conform with the demands of a genuine Lent sauce that a fish Espagnole
is needed. And, certainly in this case, nothing can take its place.
The preparation of this Espagnole does not differ from that of the
ordinary kind, except that the bacon is replaced by mushroom parings in
the Mirepoix, and that the sauce must be despumated for only one hour.
This sauce takes the place of the ordinary Espagnole, for Lenten
preparations, in every case where the latter is generally used, in
Gratins, in the Genevoise sauce, &c.
25—ORDINARY VELOUTÉ SAUCE
_Quantities Required for Four Quarts._—One lb. of pale roux (Formula
20), five quarts of white veal stock (Formula 10).
Dissolve the roux in the cold white veal stock and put the saucepan
containing this mixture on an open fire, stirring the sauce with a
spatula or whisk, so as to avoid its burning at the bottom. Add one oz.
of table-salt, a pinch of nutmeg and white powdered pepper, together
with one-quarter lb. of nice white mushroom parings, if these are
handy. Now boil and move to a corner of the fire to despumate slowly
for one and a half hours, at the same time observing the precautions
advised for ordinary Espagnole (Formula 22). Strain through muslin into
a smaller saucepan, add one pint of white stock, and despumate for
another half hour. Strain it again through a tammy or a sieve into a
wide tureen, and keep moving it with a spatula until it is quite cold.
I am not partial to garnishing Velouté Sauce with carrots, an onion
with a clove stuck into it, and a faggot, as many do. The stock should
be sufficiently fragrant of itself, without requiring the addition
of anything beyond the usual condiments. The only exception I should
make would be for mushroom parings, even though it is preferable, when
possible, to replace these by mushroom liquor. But this is always
scarce in kitchens where it is used for other purposes; wherefore it
is often imperative to have recourse to parings in its stead. The
latter may not, however, be added to the stock itself, as they would
blacken it; hence I advise their addition to the Velouté during its
preparation.
26—VELOUTÉ DE VOLAILLE
This is identical with ordinary Velouté, except that instead of having
white veal stock for its liquor, it is diluted with white poultry
stock. The mode of procedure and the time allowed for cooking are the
same.
26a—FISH VELOUTÉ
Velouté is the base of various fish sauces whose recipes will be given
in Part II.
Prepare it in precisely the same way as poultry velouté, but instead of
using poultry stock, use very clear fish _fumet_, and let it despumate
for twenty minutes only. (See fish _fumet_ No. 11.)
27—ALLEMANDE SAUCE OR THICKENED VELOUTÉ
Allemande Sauce is not, strictly speaking, a basic sauce. However, it
is so often resorted to in the preparation of other sauces that I think
it necessary to give it after the Veloutés, from which it is derived.
_Quantities Required for One Quart._
The yolks of 5 eggs.
1 pint of cold white stock.
1 quart of Velouté, well despumated.
½ the juice of a lemon.
¼ pint of mushroom liquor.
_Mode of Procedure._—Put the various ingredients in a thick-bottomed
sauté-pan and mix them carefully. Then put the pan on an open fire, and
stir the sauce with a metal spatula, lest it burn at the bottom. When
the sauce has been reduced to about one quart, add one-third pint of
fresh cream to it, and reduce further for a few minutes. It should then
be passed through a fine strainer into a tureen and kept moving until
quite cold.
Prepared thus, the Allemande Sauce is ready for the preparation of the
smaller sauces. Butter must only be added at the very last moment,
for if it were buttered any earlier it would most surely turn. The
same injunction holds good with this sauce when it is to be served in
its original state; it should then receive a small addition of cream,
and be buttered so that it may attain its required delicacy; but this
addition of butter and cream ought only to be made at the last moment,
and away from the fire. When a sauce thickened with egg yolks has any
fat substance added to it, it cannot be exposed to a higher temperature
than 140 degrees Fahrenheit without risking decomposition.
28—BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
_Quantities Required for Four Quarts._
1 lb. of white roux.
4½ quarts of boiling milk.
½ lb. of lean veal.
⅔ oz. of salt, 1 pinch of mignonette, and grated nutmeg, and 1 small
sprig of thyme.
1 minced onion.
_Preparation._—Pour the boiling milk on the roux, which should be
almost cold, and whisk it well so as to avoid lumps. Let it boil, then
cook on the side of the fire. Meanwhile the lean veal should have been
cut into small cubes, and fried with butter in a saucepan, together
with the minced onion. When the veal has stiffened without becoming
coloured, it is added to the Béchamel, together with salt and the other
aromatics. Let the sauce boil slowly for about one hour in all, and
then pass it through a tammy into a tureen; butter the top, lest a
crust should form.
When Béchamel is intended for Lenten preparations, the veal must be
omitted.
There is another way of making the sauce. After having boiled the milk,
the seasoning and aromatics should be added; the saucepan is then
covered and placed on a corner of the stove, so as to ensure a thorough
infusion. The boiling milk must now be poured on to the roux which
has been separately prepared, and the sauce should then cook for one
quarter of an hour only.
29—TOMATO SAUCE
_Quantities Required for Four Quarts._
5 oz. of salted breast of pork, rather fat.
6 oz. of carrots cut into cubes.
6 oz. of onions cut into cubes.
1 bay leaf and 1 small sprig of thyme.
5 oz. of flour.
2 oz. of butter, ½ oz. of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a pinch of pepper.
10 lbs. of raw tomatoes or 4 quarts of same, mashed.
2 quarts of white stock.
_Preparation._—Fry the pork with the butter in a tall, thick-bottomed
saucepan. When the pork is nearly melted, add the carrots, onions, and
aromatics. Cook and stir the vegetables, then add the flour, which
should be allowed to cook until it begins to brown. Now put in the
tomatoes and white stock, mix the whole well, and set to boil on an
open fire. At this point add the seasoning and a crushed clove of
garlic, cover the saucepan, and place in a moderate oven, where it may
cook for one and one-half hours. At the end of this time the sauce
should be passed through a sieve or tammy, and it should boil while
being stirred. Finally, pour it into a tureen, and butter its surface
to avoid the formation of a skin.
_Remarks._—A purée of tomatoes is also used in cookery; it is prepared
in precisely the same fashion, except that the flour is omitted and
only one pint of white stock is added.
30—HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
_Quantities Required for One Quart._—One and one-half lbs. of
butter, the yolks of six eggs, one pinch of mignonette pepper and
one-quarter oz. of salt, three tablespoonfuls of good vinegar.
_Preparation._—Put the salt, the mignonette, the vinegar, and as much
water in a small saucepan, and reduce by three-quarters on the fire.
Move the saucepan to a corner of the fire or into a _bain-marie_,
and add a spoonful of fresh water and the yolks. Work the whole with
a whisk until the yolks thicken and have the consistence of cream.
Then remove the saucepan to a tepid place and gradually pour the
butter on the yolks while briskly stirring the sauce. When the butter
is absorbed, the sauce ought to be thick and firm. It is brought to
the correct consistence with a little water, which also lightens it
slightly, but the addition of water is optional. The sauce is completed
by a drop of lemon juice, and it is rubbed through a tammy.
_Remarks._—The consistence of sauces whose processes are identical
with those of the Hollandaise may be varied at will; for instance, the
number of yolks may be increased if a very thick sauce is desired, and
it may be lessened in the reverse case. Also similar results may be
obtained by cooking the eggs either more or less. As a rule, if a thick
sauce be required, the yolks ought to be well cooked and the sauce
kept almost cold in the making. Experience alone—the fruit of long
practice—can teach the various devices which enable the skilled worker
to obtain different results from the same kind and quality of material.
CHAPTER III
=The Small Compound Sauces=
_Remarks._—In order that the classification of the small sauces should
be clear and methodical, I divide them into three parts.
The first part includes the small brown sauces; the second deals
with the small white sauces and those suited to this part of the
classification; while the third is concerned with the English sauces.
=The Small Brown Sauces=
31—SAUCE BIGARRADE
This sauce is principally used to accompany braised and poëled
ducklings. In the first case, the duckling’s braising stock, being
thickened, constitutes a sauce. In the second case, the stock is clear,
and the procedure in both cases is as follows:—
1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its
grease, and reduce it until it is very dense. Strain it once more
through muslin, twisting the latter; then, in order to bring the sauce
to its normal consistence, add the juice of six oranges and one lemon
per quart of sauce. Finish with a small piece of lemon and orange
rind cut regularly and finely, Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five
minutes.
2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through
linen; entirely remove the grease, and add four pieces of caramel sugar
dissolved in one tablespoonful of vinegar per one-half point of stock,
the juice of the oranges and the lemon and the Julienne of rinds, as
for the braised-ducklings sauce indicated above.
32—SAUCE BORDELAISE
Put into a vegetable-pan two oz. of very finely minced shallots,
one-half pint of good red wine, a pinch of mignonette pepper, and
bits of thyme and bay. Reduce the wine by three-quarters, and add
one-half pint of half-glaze. Keep the sauce simmering for half an hour;
despumate it from time to time, and strain it through linen or a sieve.
When dishing it up, finish it with two tablespoonfuls of dissolved
meat glaze, a few drops of lemon-juice, and four oz. of beef-marrow,
cut into slices or cubes and poached in slightly salted boiling water.
This sauce may be buttered to the extent of about three oz. per pint,
which makes it smoother, but less clear. It is especially suitable for
grilled butcher’s meat.
33—CHASSEUR SAUCE (Escoffier’s Method)
Peel and mince six medium-sized mushrooms. Heat one-half oz. of butter
and as much olive oil in a vegetable-pan; put in the mushrooms, and
fry the latter quickly until they are slightly browned. Now add a
coffeespoonful of minced shallots, and immediately remove half the
butter; pour one-half pint of white wine and one glass of liqueur
brandy into the stewpan; reduce this liquid to half, and finish the
sauce with: one-half pint of half-glaze, one-quarter pint of tomato
sauce, and one tablespoonful of meat-glaze. Set to boil for five
minutes more, and complete with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
34—BROWN CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Put one quart of half-glaze into a sauté-pan with one-fifth pint of
truffle essence. Put the pan on an open fire, and reduce its contents;
while making same add to the sauce, in small quantities at a time, one
and one-half pints of jelly.
The degree of reduction in this sauce is a good third, but, to be quite
certain, a test of its consistence may be made by allowing it to
cool a little. After the reduction, carefully taste, and rectify the
seasoning if necessary; mix a little Madeira or Port with the sauce,
away from the fire, and strain through muslin or, preferably, through a
Venetian-hair sieve. Stir the sauce now and then while it cools, until
it is sufficiently liquid, and at the same time consistent enough,
to coat immersed solids evenly with a film of sauce. Its use will be
explained among the formulæ of the different kinds of Chaud-froids.
35—VARIETIES OF THE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
_For Ducks._—Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for the
prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duck _fumet_ obtained from the
carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it, away from the
fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped tablespoonful of
orange rind, cut finely, Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.
_For Feathered Game._—Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as indicated in
No. 34, adding one-half pint of the _fumet_ of the game constituting
the dish in order to lend it that game’s characteristic taste. Observe
the same precaution for the cooling.
_For Fish._—Proceed as in No. 34, but (1) substitute the Espagnole
of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Espagnole with
one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use Lenten jelly instead
of meat jelly.
_Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces._—The chaud-froid sauce
may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted it need only be
gently melted without heating it too much. It ought simply to be made
sufficiently liquid to give a good coating to substances immersed in it.
36—DEVILLED SAUCE
Put in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and one-third pint
of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of
half-glaze, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly with cayenne pepper,
and strain through muslin. This sauce may be served with grilled fowls
or pigeons. It also forms an excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat
which needs a spicy sauce.
37—“ESCOFFIER” DEVILLED SAUCE
This sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably fitted to
accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order to make it
ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume of fresh butter
to it, the latter being previously well softened so as to ensure its
perfect mixture with the sauce.
38—GENEVOISE SAUCE
Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mirepoix
(No. 228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two lbs. of head of salmon
and remains or bones of fish, and stew with lid on for twenty minutes.
Let the stewpan lean slightly to one side, so that the butter may be
drained; moisten with one bottle of excellent red wine; reduce the
latter by half; add one pint of Lenten Espagnole, and allow to cook
gently for half an hour.
Rub the sauce through a sieve, pressing it so as to extract all the
essence. Let it rest awhile; carefully remove the fat which has risen
to the surface, and add one liqueur-glass of burnt brandy, one-half
pint of red wine, and as much fish _fumet_. Boil again, then move
stewpan to the side of fire to despumate for one and one-half hours.
Frequently remove what the ebullition causes to rise to the surface,
this second period of cooking being only to ensure the purification
of the sauce. If the ebullition has been well effected, the sauce
should reach the proper degree of reduction and despumation at the same
moment of time. It is then strained through muslin or tammy, and it is
finished at the last minute with a few drops of anchovy essence and
four oz. of butter per quart of sauce.
N.B.—The Genevoise Sauce, like all red-wine sauces, may be served
without being buttered. It is thus clearer and more sightly in colour,
but the addition of butter in small quantities makes it mellower and
more palatable.
38a—REMARKS ON RED-WINE SAUCES
In the general repertory of cooking we also have, in the way of
red-wine sauces, the “Bourguignonne,” “Matelote,” and “Red-Wine”
sauces, which are closely allied to the “Genevoise,” and only differ
from it in details of procedure.
The “Bourguignonne” Sauce is composed of red-wine accompanied by
aromatics, and reduced by half. In accordance with ordinary principles,
it is thickened by means of three oz. of manied butter per quart of
reduced wine. This sauce is buttered with four oz. of butter per quart,
and is especially regarded as a domestic preparation for poached,
moulded, and hard-boiled eggs.
“Matelote” Sauce is made from Court-bouillon, with red wine which has
been used for cooking fish. This Court-bouillon, with the mushroom
parings added, is reduced by two-thirds, and is thickened with one
pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of the reduced Court-bouillon.
This sauce should be reduced by a third, strained through a tammy, and
finished by means of two oz. of butter and a little cayenne per pint of
sauce.
The Red-Wine Sauce resembles the two preceding ones in so far as it
contains mirepoix browned in butter and diluted with red wine. The wine
is reduced by half, thickened by a pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of
the reduction, and the sauce is despumated for about twenty minutes. It
is strained through a tammy, and finished, when ready, by a few drops
of anchovy essence, a little cayenne, and two oz. of butter per pint of
sauce.
39—GRAND-VENEUR SAUCE
Take one pint of Poivrade Sauce (No. 49) and boil it, adding one pint
of game stock to keep it light; reduce the sauce by a good third;
remove it from the fire, and add four tablespoonfuls of red-currant
jelly. When the latter is well dissolved, complete the sauce by
one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.
This sauce is the proper accompaniment for joints of venison.
40—ITALIAN SAUCE
_Ordinary Italian Sauce._—Put into a stewpan six tablespoonfuls of
Duxelles (see No. 223), two oz. of very lean, cooked ham, cut very
finely, brunoise-fashion, and one pint of half-glaze tomatée. Boil
for ten minutes, and complete, at the moment of dishing up, with one
teaspoonful of parsley, chervil, and tarragon, minced and mixed.
_Lenten Italian Sauce._—Same preparation, only (1) omit the Ham, and
(2) substitute Lent Espagnole (combined with fish _fumet_ made from the
fish for which the sauce is intended) for half glaze with tomatoes.
41—THICKENED GRAVY
Boil one pint of poultry or veal stock (according to the nature of
the dish the gravy is intended for). Thicken this sauce by means of
three-quarters oz. of fecula, diluted cold, with a little water or
gravy, and pour this leason into the boiling gravy, being careful to
stir briskly.
The thickened gravy with the veal-stock base is used for choicest
pieces of butcher’s meat; that with a poultry-stock base is for fillets
of poultry.
42—VEAL GRAVY TOMATÉ
Add to one pint of veal stock two oz. of purée and one-quarter pint of
tomato juice, and reduce by a fifth. Strain the gravy through linen.
This gravy is for butcher’s meat.
43—LYONNAISE SAUCE
Finely mince two oz. of onions and brown them slightly in two oz.
of butter. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine and as much
vinegar; almost entirely reduce the liquid; add one and one-half pints
of clear half-glaze, and set to cook slowly for half an hour. Rub the
sauce through a tammy.
N.B.—The onion may be left in the sauce or not, according to the
preparation for which it is intended and the taste of the consumer.
44—MADEIRA SAUCE
Put one and one-half pints of half-glaze into a sauté-pan, and reduce
it on a brisk fire to a stiff consistence. When it reaches this point,
take it off the fire and add one-fifth pint of Madeira to it, which
brings it back to its normal consistence. Strain through a tammy, and
keep it warm without allowing it to boil.
45—MARROW SAUCE
Follow the proportions as indicated under “Sauce Bordelaise” (No. 32)
for the necessary quantity of this sauce, the Marrow Sauce being only
a variety of the Bordelaise. Finish it with six oz. per quart of beef
marrow, cut into cubes, poached and well drained, and one teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, scalded for a second. If the sauce is to accompany
vegetables, finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter,
and then add the cubes of marrow and the parsley.
46—PIGNONS SAUCE
Take the necessary amount of Poivrade Sauce prepared according to
Formula No. 49, and let it boil. Now, for one pint of sauce, prepare
an infusion of juniper berries, with one-quarter pint of water and
two oz. of concassed berries; one oz. of grilled fir-apple kernels,
and one oz. of raisins, stoned and washed, and left to soak in tepid
water for about an hour. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, by adding
the infusion of juniper berries strained through linen, the grilled
kernels, the soaked raisins, and one-eighth pint of Madeira wine.
This sauce is specially suited to joints of venison.
47—PÉRIGUEUX SAUCE
Prepare a “Sauce Madère” as explained in No. 44, and add to the
half-glaze, to be reduced, half its volume of very strong veal stock,
and keep it a little denser than usual. Finish this sauce by adding
one-sixth pint of truffle essence and three oz. of chopped truffles
per quart of Madeira Sauce. It is used for numerous small entrées,
timbales, hot pâtés, &c.
48—PIQUANTE SAUCE
Put into a vegetable pan two oz. of minced shallots, one-quarter pint
of vinegar, and as much white wine. Reduce the liquid by a good half,
and add one pint of half-glaze; set the sauce to boil, and despumate
it for half an hour. At the last moment finish it, away from the fire,
with two oz. of gherkins, one oz. of capers, and a teaspoonful of
chervil, parsley, and tarragon, mixed; all the ingredients to be finely
chopped. This sauce generally accompanies grilled or boiled pork, and
cold meat re-dished and minced which needs spicy flavouring.
49—ORDINARY POIVRADE SAUCE
1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw
Mirepoix (No. 228). Fry the vegetables until they are well browned;
moisten with one-quarter pint of vinegar and one-half pint of Marinade
(Formula 169); reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of Espagnole Sauce,
and cook for three-quarters of an hour. Ten minutes before straining
the sauce, put in a few crushed peppercorns. If the pepper were put in
the sauce earlier, it might make it bitter.
2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a
further one-half pint of Marinade, and despumate for one-quarter of an
hour, keeping it simmering the while. Strain again through tammy, and
finish the sauce, when ready for dishing, with two oz. of butter.
This sauce is suitable for joints marinaded or not.
50—POIVRADE SAUCE FOR VENISON
Fry, with two oz. of butter and two oz. of oil, one lb. of raw Mirepoix
(No. 228) to which are added four lbs. of well-broken bones and
ground-game trimmings. When the whole is well browned, drain the grease
away, and dilute with one pint of vinegar and one pint of white wine.
Reduce this liquid by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game
stock and a quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put
into a moderate oven, where it should stay for at least three hours.
At the end of this time take out the saucepan and pour its contents
into a fine sieve placed over a tureen; press the remains so as to
expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the sauce into a tall, thick
saucepan. Add enough game stock and Marinade, mixed in equal parts,
to produce three quarts in all of sauce, and gently reduce the latter
while despumating it. As it diminishes in volume, it should be passed
through muslin into smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be
stopped when only a quart of sauce remains.
N.B.—This sauce, like red-wine sauces, may be served as it stands. It
is brilliant, clear, and perhaps more sightly thus, but the addition of
a certain quantity of butter (four oz. per quart) makes it perfectly
mellow, and admirably completes its fragrance.
51—PROVENÇALE SAUCE
Peel, remove the seeds, press and concass twelve medium tomatoes.
Heat in a sauté-pan one-fifth pint of oil, until it begins to smoke
a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt; add a
crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of
chopped parsley, and allow to melt gently for half an hour. In reality,
true Provençale is nothing but a fine fondue of tomatoes with garlic.
52—ROBERT SAUCE
Finely mince a large onion and put it into a stewpan with butter. Fry
the onion gently and without letting it acquire any colour. Dilute
with one-third pint of white wine, reduce the latter by one-third,
add one pint of half-glaze, and leave to simmer for twenty minutes.
When dishing up, finish the sauce with one tablespoonful of meat
glaze, one teaspoonful of mustard, and one pinch of powdered sugar.
If, when finished, the sauce has to wait, it should be kept warm in
a _bain-marie_, as it must not boil again. This sauce—of a spicy
flavour—is best suited to grilled and boiled pork. It may also be used
for a mince of the same meat.
53—ESCOFFIER ROBERTS SAUCE
This sauce may be bought ready-made. It is used either hot or cold. It
is especially suitable for pork, veal, poultry, and even fish, and is
generally used hot with grills after the equivalent of its volume of
excellent brown stock has been added to it. It may also be served cold
to accompany cold meat.
54—ROUENNAISE SAUCE
Prepare a “Bordelaise” sauce according to Formula No. 32. The diluent
of this sauce must be an excellent red wine. For one pint of sauce,
pass four raw ducks’ livers through a sieve; add the resulting purée to
the Bordelaise, and heat the latter for a few minutes in order to poach
the liver. Be careful, however, not to heat the sauce too much nor too
long, lest the liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling à la
Rouennaise.
55—SALMIS SAUCE
The base of this sauce, which rather resembles the cullis, is
unchangeable. Its diluent only changes according to the kind of birds
or game to be treated, and whether this game is to be considered
ordinary or Lenten.
Cut and gently brown in butter five oz. of Mirepoix (Formula 228). Add
the shin detached from the limbs and the chopped carcase of the bird
under treatment, and moisten with one pint of white wine. Reduce the
latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half glaze, and boil gently
for three-quarters of an hour. Pass through a strainer, while pressing
upon the carcase and the aromatics, with the view of extracting their
quintessence, and thin the cullis thus obtained by means of one-half
pint of game stock or mushroom liquor, if the game be Lenten. Now
despumate for about one hour, finally reduce the sauce, bring it to its
proper consistency with a little mushroom liquor and truffle essence,
rub it through tammy, and butter it slightly at the last moment.
56—TORTUE SAUCE
Boil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig of sage, sweet
marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and as much bay, two oz. of mushroom
parings, and one oz. of parsley. Cover and allow to infuse for half an
hour. Two minutes before straining the infusion, add four concassed
peppercorns.
After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint of half-glaze and
as much tomato sauce (away from the fire) with four tablespoonfuls of
sherry, a little truffle essence, and a good pinch of cayenne.
N.B.—As this sauce must be spicy, the use of cayenne suggests itself,
but great caution should be observed, as there must be no excess of
this condiment.
57—VENISON SAUCE
Prepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No. 50. Finish
this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, previously
dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of fresh cream per pint
of sauce. This addition of cream and red-currants must be made away
from the fire.
Serve this sauce with big ground-game.
=Small White and Compound Sauces.=
58—AMERICAN SAUCE
This sauce is that of lobster prepared “à l’Américaine” (see No. 939).
As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of the lobster or lobsters
which have served in its preparation is sliced and used as the garnish
of the fish.
59—ANCHOVY SAUCE
Put into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered “Normande Sauce”
(No. 99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of anchovy
butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed, well sponged, and cut
into small pieces.
60—AURORE SAUCE
Into one-half pint of boiling velouté put the same quantity of very red
tomato purée (No. 29), and mix the two. Let the sauce boil a little,
pass it through a tammy, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz.
of butter.
61—LENTEN AURORE SAUCE
This sauce is made like the preceding one, _i.e._, with the same
quantities of velouté and tomato purée, replacing ordinary velouté by
fish velouté.
62—BÉARNAISE SAUCE
Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, two oz.
of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some mignonette
pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce
the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire, let the stewpan cool a
little, and add to this reduction the yolks of five eggs. Now put the
stewpan on a low fire and gradually combine with the yolks six oz. of
melted butter. Whisk the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of
the yolks, which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the
sauce.
When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter through
tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil parings and chopped
tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning with a suspicion of cayenne.
This sauce should not be served very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise
with butter. It need only be tepid, for it would probably turn if it
were over-heated. Serve it with grilled, butcher’s meat and poultry.
63—BÉARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEAT GLAZE, OTHERWISE VALOIS SAUCE OR FOYOT
SAUCE
Prepare a Béarnaise sauce as explained in No. 62. Complete it with
three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which may be added
in small quantities at a time. Serve it with butcher’s meat.
64—BÉARNAISE TOMATÉE SAUCE OR CHORON SAUCE
Proceed in exactly the same way as for Béarnaise No. 62. When the sauce
is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it with one-third pint of
very red tomato purée. In this case the final addition of chervil and
tarragon should not be made.
This is proper to “Tournedos Choron,” but it may accompany grilled
poultry and white, butcher’s meat.
65—BERCY SAUCE
Heat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half pint of white
wine and as much fish _fumet_, or, when possible, the same quantity of
fish liquor, the latter being, of course, that of a fish similar to the
one the sauce is to accompany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third
pint of velouté, let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from
the fire, with four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of
fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley.
Serve with medium-sized poached fish.
66—BUTTER SAUCE
Mix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter. Dilute with
one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of one-quarter oz. per
quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect leason, and do not allow to
boil. Add immediately the yolks of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint
of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish
the sauce with five oz. of best fresh butter.
Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been thickened.
67—BONNEFOY SAUCE, OR WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCE
Put in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half pint of
Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white Bordeaux. Reduce the
wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of velouté, let it simmer
twenty minutes, and rub it through a tammy. Finish it, away from the
fire, with six oz. of butter and a little chopped tarragon.
Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat.
68—CAPER SAUCE
This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No. 66, and
there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers per pint of
sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all kinds.
69—CARDINAL SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel, to which add one-half pint of fish _fumet_
and a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. Finish the
sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of cream and
three oz. of very red lobster butter (No. 149).
This sauce is poured over the fish.
70—MUSHROOM SAUCE
If this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor
and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned or channelled and cooked,
to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce.
If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velouté, thickened
with the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom liquor, as
above.
The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used for fish, after
adding the necessary quantity of fish _fumet_.
71—CHÂTEAUBRIAND SAUCE
Put one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit of bay,
one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of white wine into
a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-half pint of veal
gravy, and reduce again until the liquid only measures one-quarter
pint. Strain through muslin, and finish the sauce away from the fire
with four oz. of butter “Maître d’Hôtel” (No. 150), to which may be
added a little chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef,
otherwise “Châteaubriand.”
72—WHITE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Boil one pint of velouté in a stewpan, and add three-quarters pint of
melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open fire, reduce
the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while, and gradually
add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When the sauce has reached the
desired degree of consistency rub it through a tammy, and stir it
frequently while it cools, for fear of a skin forming on its surface,
for if this happened it would have to be strained again. When dishing
up, this sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed
solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily
steeped into it.
73—ORDINARY CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Proceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for the velouté,
and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter pint. Observe the
same precautions while cooling.
74—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, A L’AURORE
Prepare a white Chaud-Froid (No. 72). The same may be coloured by the
addition of fine red tomato purée—more or less to match the desired
shade—or by an infusion of paprika, according to the use for which it
is intended. This last product is preferable when not too deep a shade
is required.
75—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, AU VERT-PRÉ
Add to the velouté of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the same time as
the jelly, an infusion prepared thus:—Boil one-quarter pint of white
wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil stalks, a similar quantity of
tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, allow infusion to
proceed away from the fire for ten minutes, and strain through linen.
Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green (No. 143).
The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced, but must remain
a pale green. The colouring principle must therefore be added with
caution and in small quantities, until the correct shade is obtained.
Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly that kind
distinguished as “_Printanier_.”
76—LENT CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, and taking
note of the following modifications:—
1. Substitute fish velouté for ordinary velouté.
2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.
_Remarks._—I have adopted the use of this ordinary Chaud-Froid sauce
for the glazing of fillets and escalopes of fish and Shell-fish,
instead of cleared Mayonnaise, formerly used, which had certain
inconveniences—not the least being the oozing away of the oil under
the shrinkage of the gelatine. This difficulty does not obtain in the
ordinary Chaud-Froid, the definite and pronounced flavour of which is
better than that of the cleared Mayonnaise.
77—“ESCOFFIER” CHERRY SAUCE
This sauce may be bought ready-made. Like the Roberts Sauce, it can be
served hot or cold. It is an excellent adjunct to venison, and even to
small ground-game. Saddle of venison with this sauce constitutes one of
the greatest dainties that an epicure could desire.
78—CHIVRY SAUCE
In one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch of chervil
pluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of young pimpernel (the
qualification here is very important, for this aromatic plant grows
bitter as it matures), and a good pinch of chives. Cover up, and
let infusion proceed for ten to twelve minutes; then add the liquid
(strained through linen) to one pint of velouté. Boil, reduce by a
quarter, and complete it with two oz. of Green Butter (No. 143). Chivry
Sauce is admirably suited to boiled or poached poultry.
79—CREAM SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, and add one-quarter pint of cream
to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become very thick;
then pass through tammy. Bring to its normal degree of consistency by
gradually adding, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of very fresh
cream and a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve this sauce with boiled
fish, poultry, eggs, and various vegetables.
80—SHRIMP SAUCE
Boil one pint of fish velouté or, failing this, Béchamel sauce, and add
to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter pint of very clear fish
_fumet_. Reduce to one pint, and finish the sauce, away from the fire,
with two oz. of Shrimp Butter (No. 145) and two oz. of shelled shrimps’
tails.
81—CURRY SAUCE
Slightly brown the following vegetables in butter:—Twelve oz. of minced
onions, one oz. of parsley roots, four oz. of minced celery, a small
sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, and a little mace. Sprinkle with two oz.
of flour and a teaspoonful of curry pepper. Cook the flour for some
minutes without letting it acquire any colour, and dilute with one and
one-half pints of white stock. Boil, cook gently for three-quarters
of an hour, and rub through a tammy. Now heat the sauce, remove its
grease, and keep it in the _bain-marie_. Serve this sauce with fish,
shell-fish, poultry, and various egg-preparations.
N.B.—This sauce is sometimes flavoured with cocoa-nut milk in the
proportion of one-quarter of the diluent.
82—DIPLOMATE SAUCE
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, prepared according to No. 99, and
finish it with two oz. of lobster butter and three tablespoonfuls of
lobster meat, and truffles cut into small, regular tubes.
83—HERB SAUCE
Prepare one pint of white-wine sauce (No. 111). Finish it away from
the fire with three oz. of shallot butter, a tablespoonful of parsley,
chervil, tarragon, and chives, chopped and mixed. Serve this sauce with
boiled or poached fish.
84—GOOSEBERRY SAUCE
Prepare one pint of butter sauce, Formula No. 66. Meanwhile put one lb.
of green gooseberries into a small copper saucepan containing boiling
water. Boil for five minutes, then drain the gooseberries, and put them
in a little stewpan with one-half pint of white wine and three oz. of
powdered sugar. Gently cook the gooseberries, rub them through a tammy,
and add the resulting pulp to the butter sauce. This sauce is excellent
with grilled mackerel and the poached fillets of that fish.
85—HUNGARIAN SAUCE
Gently fry in butter, without colouring, two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika.
Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine, add a small faggot, reduce
the wine by two-thirds, and remove the herbs.
Finish with one pint of ordinary or Lenten Velouté, according to the
use for which the sauce is intended, and boil moderately for five
minutes. Then rub the sauce through a tammy, and complete it with
two oz. of butter. Remember this sauce should be of a tender, pink
shade, which it must owe to the paprika alone.
It forms an ideal accompaniment to choice morsels of lamb and veal,
eggs, poultry, and fish.
86—OYSTER SAUCE
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, finish it as directed in that recipe,
and complete it with one-quarter pint of reduced oyster liquor,
strained through linen, and twelve poached and trimmed oysters.
87—IVORY SAUCE, OR ALBUFERA SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of Suprême Sauce, prepared as explained
in No. 106a. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale, meat
glaze per quart of sauce, in order to lend the latter that ivory-white
tint which characterises it. Serve this sauce chiefly with poultry and
poached sweet-bread.
88—JOINVILLE SAUCE
Prepare one pint of Normande Sauce (No. 99), as given in the first
part of its formula, and complete it with two oz. of shrimp butter and
two oz. of crayfish butter. If this sauce is to accompany a fish à la
Joinville, which includes a special garnish, it is served as it stands.
If it is served with a large, boiled, ungarnished fish, one oz. of
very black truffles cut _Julienne-fashion_ should be added. As may be
seen, Joinville Sauce differs from similar preparations in the final
operation where crayfish and shrimp butter are combined.
89—MALTESE SAUCE
To the Hollandaise Sauce, given under No. 30, add, when dishing up,
the juice of two blood oranges (these late-season oranges being
especially suitable for this sauce) and half a coffeespoonful of grated
orange-rind.
Maltese Sauce is the finest for asparagus.
90—MARINIÈRE SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce (No. 65), and add, per pint
of sauce, one-quarter pint of mussel liquor and a leason composed of
the yolks of three eggs.
Serve this with small poached fish and more particularly with mussels.
91—MORNAY SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce with one-quarter pint of the _fumet_
of the fish, poultry, or vegetable, which is to constitute the dish.
Reduce by a good quarter, and add two oz. of Gruyère and two oz. of
grated Parmesan.
Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and ensure the
melting of the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish the sauce
away from the fire with two oz. of butter added by degrees.
92—MOUSSELINE SAUCE
To a Hollandaise Sauce, prepared as explained (No. 30), add, just
before dishing up, one-half pint of stiffly-whipped cream per pint of
sauce.
93—MOUSSEUSE SAUCE
Scald and wipe a small vegetable-pan, and put into it one-half lb. of
stiffly-_manied_ butter, properly softened. Season this butter with
table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk it while gradually
adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish with two tablespoonfuls
of very firm, whipped cream. This preparation, though classified as a
sauce, is really a compound butter, which is served with boiled fish.
The heat of the fish alone suffices to melt it, and its appearance is
infinitely more agreeable than that of plain, melted butter.
94—MUSTARD SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete it, away from
the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per pint of sauce.
N.B.—If the sauce has to wait, it must be kept in a _bain-marie_, for
it should not on any account boil. It is served with certain small
grilled fish, especially fresh herrings.
95—NANTUA SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream, and reduce
by a third. Rub it through a tammy, and finish it with a further
addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three oz. of very fine
crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small, shelled crayfishes’
tails.
96—NEWBURG SAUCE
_First Method_ (_with Raw Lobsters_).—Divide a two lb. lobster into
four parts. Remove its creamy parts, pound them finely with two oz. of
butter, and put them aside.
Heat in a sautépan one and one-half oz. of butter and as much oil, and
insert the pieces of lobster, well seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fry
until the pieces assume a fine, red colour; entirely drain away the
butter, and add two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-third pint
of Marsala or old Sherry.
Reduce the wine by two-thirds, and wet the lobster with one-third pint
of cream and one-half pint of fish _fumet_. Now add a faggot, cover
the sautépan, and gently cook for twenty-five minutes. Then drain the
lobster on a sieve, remove the meat and cut it into cubes, and finish
the sauce by adding the creamy portions put aside from the first. Boil
so as to ensure the cooking of these latter portions; add the meat, cut
into cubes, and verify the seasoning.
N.B.—The addition of the meat to the sauce is optional; instead of
cutting it into cubes it may be stewed and displayed on the fish
constituting the dish.
97—SECOND METHOD (WITH COOKED LOBSTER)
The lobster having been cooked in a _Court-bouillon_, shell the tail
and slice it up. Arrange these slices in a sautépan liberally buttered
at the bottom; season them strongly with salt and cayenne, and heat
them on both sides so as to effect the reddening of the skin. Immerse,
so as to cover, in a good Sherry, and almost entirely reduce same.
When dishing up, pour on to the slices a leason composed of one-third
pint of fresh cream and the yolks of two eggs. Gently stir, away from
the fire, and roll the saucepan about until the leason is completed.
Originally, these two sauces, like the American, were exclusively
composed of, and served with, lobster. They were one with the two very
excellent preparations of lobster which bear their name. In its two
forms lobster may only be served at lunch, many people with delicate
stomachs being unable to digest it at night. To obviate this serious
difficulty, I have made it a practice to serve lobster sauce with
fillets or Mousselines of sole, adding the lobster as a garnish only.
And this innovation proved most welcome to the public.
By using such condiments as curry and paprika, excellent varieties of
this sauce may be obtained, which are particularly suited to sole and
other white Lenten fish. In either of these cases it is well to add a
little rice “à l’Indienne” to the fish.
98—NOISETTE SAUCE
Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce according to the recipe under No. 30. Add
two oz. of hazel-nut butter at the last moment.
Serve this with salmon, trout, and all boiled fish in general.
99—NORMANDE SAUCE
Put in a sautépan one pint of fish velouté, three tablespoonfuls of
mushroom liquor, as much oyster liquor, and twice as much sole _fumet_,
the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one-quarter
pint of cream. Reduce by a good third on an open fire, season with a
little cayenne, rub through a tammy, and finish with two oz. of butter
and four tablespoonfuls of good cream.
This sauce is proper to fillet of sole “à la Normande,” but it is also
frequently used as the base of other small sauces.
100—ORIENTAL SAUCE
Take one pint of American sauce, season with curry, and reduce to a
third. Then add, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of cream per pint
of sauce.
Serve this sauce in the same way as American Sauce.
101—POULETTE SAUCE
Boil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and add six
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from the fire, with
two oz. of butter, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one teaspoonful
of chopped parsley. Use this sauce with certain vegetables, but more
generally with sheep’s trotters.
102—RAVIGOTE SAUCE
Reduce by half, one-quarter pint of white wine with half as much
vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary velouté, boil gently for a few
minutes, and finish with one and one-half oz. of shallot butter and
one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped chives. This sauce
accompanies boiled poultry and certain white “_abats_.”
103—REGENCY SAUCE
_If this sauce is to garnish poultry_, boil one pint of Allemande Sauce
with six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence and two tablespoonfuls of
truffle essence. Finish with four tablespoonfuls of poultry glaze.
_If it is to garnish fish_, substitute for the Allemande Sauce some
fish velouté thickened with egg-yolks and the essences of mushroom and
truffle as above. Complete with some fish essence.
104—SOUBISE SAUCE
Stew in butter two lbs. of finely-minced onions, scalded for three
minutes and well dried. This stewing of the onions in butter increases
their flavour. Now add one-half pint of thickened Béchamel; season with
salt and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Cook gently for half an hour,
rub through a tammy, and complete the sauce with some tablespoonfuls of
cream and two oz. of butter.
105—SOUBISE SAUCE WITH RICE
The same quantity as above of minced onions, scalded and well drained.
Garnish the bottom and the sides of a tall, medium stewpan with
some thin rashers of fat bacon. Insert the onions, together with
one-quarter lb. of Carolina rice, one pint of white consommé, a large
pinch of powdered sugar, and the necessary salt. Cook gently in the
front of the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Then pound the onions
and rice in a mortar, rub the resulting purée through a tammy, and
finish with cream and butter as in the preceding case.
N.B.—This sauce, being more consistent than the former, is used as a
garnish just as often as a sauce.
106—SOUBISE SAUCE TOMATÉE
Prepare a soubise in accordance with the first of the two above
formulæ, and add to it one-third of its volume of very red tomato purée.
=Remarks.=
1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence
must be greater than that of a sauce.
2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice,
seeing that it makes it smoother. If, in certain cases, rice is used as
a cohering element, in order to give the Soubise more stiffness.
3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise
Tomatée may be finally seasoned either with curry or paprika.
106a—SUPRÊME SAUCE
The salient characteristics of Suprême Sauce are its perfect whiteness
and consummate delicacy. It is generally prepared in small quantities
only.
_Preparation._—Put one and one-half pints of very clear poultry stock
and one-quarter pint of mushroom cooking liquor into a sautépan. Reduce
to two-thirds; add one pint of “poultry velouté”; reduce on an open
fire, stirring with the spatula the while, and combine one-half pint of
excellent cream with the sauce, this last ingredient being added little
by little.
When the sauce has reached the desired consistence, strain it through
a sieve, and add another one-quarter pint of cream and two oz. of best
butter. Stir with a spoon, from time to time, or keep the pan well
covered.
107—VENETIAN SAUCE
Put into a stewpan one tablespoonful of chopped shallots, one
tablespoonful of chervil, and one-quarter pint of white wine and
tarragon vinegar, mixed in equal quantities. Reduce the vinegar by
two-thirds; add one pint of white wine sauce (No. 111); boil for a few
minutes; rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with a sufficient
quantity of Herb Juice (No. 183) and one teaspoonful of chopped chervil
and tarragon. This sauce accompanies various fish.
108—VILLEROY SAUCE
Put into a sautépan one pint of Allemande Sauce to which have been
added two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence and as much ham essence.
Reduce on an open fire and constantly stir until the sauce is
sufficiently stiff to coat immersed solids thickly.
109—VILLEROY SOUBISEE SAUCE
Put into a sautépan two-thirds pint of Allemande Sauce and one-third
pint of Soubise purée (Formula 105). Reduce as in the preceding case,
as the uses to which this is put are the same. Now, according to the
circumstances and the nature of the solid it is intended for, a few
teaspoonfuls of very black, chopped truffles may be added to this sauce.
110—VILLEROY TOMATÉE SAUCE
Prepare the sauce as explained under No. 108, and add to it the third
of its volume of very fine tomato purée. Reduce in the same way.
_Remarks._—1. Villeroy sauce, of whatsoever kind, is solely used for
the coating of preparations said to be “à la Villeroy.”
2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika,
according to the preparation for which it is intended.
111—WHITE WINE SAUCE
The three following methods are employed in making it:—
1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened
Velouté, and reduce by half. Finish the sauce, away from the fire, with
four oz. of butter. Thus prepared, this white wine sauce is suitable
for glazed fish.
2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this
reduction add the yolks of four eggs, mixing them well in it, and
follow with one lb. of butter, added by degrees, paying heed to the
precautions indicated under sauce Hollandaise No. 30.
3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with
one tablespoonful of cold fish-stock. Put the stewpan in a _bain-marie_
and finish the sauce with one lb. of butter, meanwhile adding from time
to time, and in small quantities, six tablespoonfuls of excellent fish
_fumet_. The procedure in this sauce is, in short, exactly that of the
Hollandaise, with this distinction, that here fish _fumet_ takes the
place of the water.
=Hot English Sauces=
112—APPLE SAUCE
Quarter, peel, core, and chop two lbs. of medium-sized apples; place
these in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a bit of
cinnamon, and a few tablespoonfuls of water. Cook the whole gently with
lid on, and smooth the purée with a whisk when dishing up.
Serve this sauce lukewarm with duck, goose, roast hare, &c.
113—BREAD SAUCE
Boil one pint of milk, and add three oz. of fresh, white bread-crumb,
a little salt, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, and one oz. of
butter. Cook gently for about a quarter of an hour, remove the onion,
smooth the sauce with a whisk, and finish it with a few tablespoonfuls
of cream.
This sauce is served with roast fowl and roast feathered game.
114—CELERY SAUCE
Clean six stalks of celery (only use the hearts), put them in a
sautépan, wholly immerse in consommé, add a faggot and one onion with
a clove stuck in it, and cook gently. Drain the celery, pound it in a
mortar, then rub it through a tammy and put the purée in a stewpan.
Now thin the purée with an equal quantity of cream sauce and a little
reduced celery liquor. Heat it moderately, and, if it has to wait, put
it in a _bain-marie_.
This sauce is suited to boiled or braised poultry. It is excellent, and
has been adopted in French cookery.
115—CRANBERRY SAUCE
Cook one pint of cranberries with one quart of water in a stewpan,
and cover the stewpan. When the berries are cooked drain them in a
fine sieve through which they are strained. To the purée thus obtained
add the necessary quantity of their cooking liquor, so as to make a
somewhat thick sauce. Sugar should be added according to the taste of
the consumer.
This sauce is mostly served with roast turkey. It is to be bought
ready-made, and, if this kind be used, it need only be heated with a
little water.
116—FENNEL SAUCE
Take one pint of butter sauce (No. 66) and finish it with two
tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel, scalded for a few seconds.
This is principally used with mackerel.
117—EGG SAUCE WITH MELTED BUTTER
Dissolve one-quarter pound of butter, and add to it the necessary salt,
a little pepper, half the juice of a lemon, and three hard-boiled eggs
(hot and cut into large cubes); also a teaspoonful of chopped and
scalded parsley.
118—SCOTCH EGG SAUCE
Make a white roux with one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz.
of flour. Mix in one pint of boiling milk, season with salt, white
pepper, and nutmeg, and boil gently for ten minutes. Then add three hot
hard-boiled eggs, cut into cubes (the whites and the yolks).
This sauce usually accompanies boiled fish, especially fresh haddocks
and fresh and salted cod.
119—HORSE-RADISH OR ALBERT SAUCE
Rasp five oz. of horse-radish and place them in a stewpan with
one-quarter pint of white consommé. Boil gently for twenty minutes
and add a good one-half pint of butter sauce, as much cream, and
one-half oz. of bread-crumb; thicken by reducing on a brisk fire
and rub through tammy. Then thicken with the yolks of two eggs,
and complete the seasoning with a pinch of salt and pepper, and a
teaspoonful of mustard dissolved in a tablespoonful of vinegar.
Serve this sauce with braised or roast beef—especially fillets.
119a—PARSLEY SAUCE
This is the Butter Sauce (No. 66), to which is added, per pint, a
heaped tablespoonful of freshly-chopped parsley.
120—REFORM SAUCE
Put into a small stewpan and boil one pint of half-glaze sauce and
one-half pint of ordinary Poivrade sauce. Complete with a garnish
composed of one-half oz. of gherkins, one-half oz. of the hard-boiled
white of an egg, one oz. of salted tongue, one oz. of truffles, and
one oz. of mushrooms. All these to be cut _Julienne-fashion_ and short.
This sauce is for mutton cutlets when these are “à la Reform.”
CHAPTER IV
COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS
121—AIOLI SAUCE, OR PROVENCE BUTTER
Pound one oz. of garlic cloves as finely as possible in a mortar, and
add the yolk of one raw egg, a pinch of salt, and one-half pint of oil,
letting the latter gradually fall in a thread and wielding the pestle
meanwhile, so as to effect a complete amalgamation. Add a few drops of
lemon juice and cold water to the sauce as it thickens, these being to
avoid its turning.
Should it decompose while in the process of making or when made, the
only thing to be done is to begin it again with the yolk of an egg.
122—ANDALOUSE SAUCE
Take the required quantity of Mayonnaise sauce (No. 126) and add to it
the quarter of its volume of very red and concentrated tomato purée,
and finally add two oz. of capsicum cut finely, _Julienne-fashion_, per
pint of sauce.
123—BOHEMIAN SAUCE
Put in a bowl one-quarter pint of cold Béchamel, the yolks of four
eggs, a little table salt and white pepper. Add a quart of oil and
three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, proceeding as for the
Mayonnaise.
Finish the sauce with a tablespoonful of mustard.
124—GENOA SAUCE
Pound in a mortar, and make into a smooth, fine paste, one oz. of
pistachios and one oz. of fir-apple kernels, or, if these are not
available, one oz. of sweet almonds; add one-half tablespoonful of cold
Béchamel. Put this paste into a bowl, add the yolks of six eggs, a
little salt and pepper, and finish the sauce with one quart of oil, the
juice of two lemons, and proceed as for the Mayonnaise.
Complete with three tablespoonfuls of purée of herbs, prepared with
equal quantities of chervil, parsley, tarragon, and fresh pimpernel,
scalded for one minute. Cool quickly, press so as to expel the water,
and pass through a fine sieve.
Serve this sauce with cold fish.
125—GRIBICHE SAUCE
Crush in a basin the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, and work them
into a smooth paste, together with a large tablespoonful of French
mustard, the necessary salt, a little pepper, and make up the sauce
with one pint of oil. Complete with one dessertspoonful of parsley,
chervil, and tarragon (chopped and mixed), as many capers and gherkins,
evenly mixed, and the hard-boiled whites of three eggs, cut short,
_Julienne-fashion_.
This sauce is chiefly used with cold fish.
126—MAYONNAISE SAUCE
Put in a basin the yolks of six raw eggs, after having removed the
cores. Season them with one-half oz. of table-salt and a little cayenne
pepper. Gradually pour one-fifth pint of vinegar on the yolks while
whisking them briskly. When the vinegar is absorbed add one quart of
oil, letting the latter trickle down in a thread, constantly stirring
the sauce meanwhile. The sauce is finished by the addition of the juice
of a lemon and three tablespoonfuls of boiling water—the purpose of the
latter being to ensure the coherence of the sauce and to prevent its
turning.
Mayonnaise prepared in this way is rather liquid, but it need only be
left to rest a few hours in order to thicken considerably. Unless it be
exposed to too low a temperature, the Mayonnaise, prepared as above,
never turns, and may be kept for several days without the fear of
anything happening to it. Merely cover it to keep the dust away.
_Remarks._—In the matter of that sauce there exist endless prejudices,
which I must attempt to refute:—
1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the
oil has been added too rapidly at first, before the addition of the
vinegar, and that its assimilation by the yolks has not operated
normally.
2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over
ice or in a cold room. Cold is rather deleterious to the Mayonnaise,
and is invariably the cause of this sauce turning in winter. In the
cold season the oil should be slightly warmed, or, at least, kept at
the temperature of the kitchen, though it is best to make it in a
moderately warm place.
3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with
the making of the sauce, for salt, in solution, rather provokes the
cohering force of the yolks.
_Causes of the Disintegration of the Mayonnaise_:—
1. The too rapid addition of the oil at the start.
2. The use of congealed, or too cold, an oil.
3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the
assimilating power of an egg being limited to two and one-half oz.
of oil (if the sauce be made some time in advance), and three oz.
if it is to be used immediately.
_Means of Bringing Turned Mayonnaise Back to its Normal State._—Put
the yolk of an egg into a basin with a few drops of vinegar, and mix
the turned Mayonnaise in it, little by little. If it be a matter of
only a small quantity of Mayonnaise, one-half a coffeespoonful of
mustard can take the place of the egg-yolk. Finally, with regard to
acid seasoning, a whiter sauce is obtained by the use of lemon juice
instead of vinegar.
127—CLEARED MAYONNAISE SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of Mayonnaise and gradually add to it, per
one and one-half pints of the sauce, one-half pint of cold and rather
firm melting aspic jelly—Lenten or ordinary, according to the nature of
the products for which the sauce is intended.
_Remarks._—It is this very Mayonnaise, formerly used almost exclusively
for coating entrées and cold relevées of fish, filleted fish, escalopes
of common and spiny-lobster, &c., which I have allowed the Lenten
Chaud-froid (see remarks No. 76) to supersede.
128—WHISKED MAYONNAISE
Put into a copper basin or other bowl three-quarters pint of melted
jelly, two-thirds pint of Mayonnaise, one tablespoonful of tarragon
vinegar, and as much rasped or finely-chopped horse-radish. Mix up the
whole, place the utensil on ice, and whisk gently until the contents
get very frothy. Stop whisking as soon as the sauce begins to solidify,
for it must remain almost fluid so as to enable it to mix with the
products for which it is intended.
This sauce is used principally for vegetable salads.
129—RAVIGOTE SAUCE, OR VINAIGRETTE
Put into a bowl one pint of oil, one-third pint of vinegar, a little
salt and pepper, two oz. of small capers, three tablespoonfuls of fine
herbs, comprising some very finely chopped onion, as much parsley,
and half as much chervil, tarragon, and chives. Mix thoroughly. The
Ravigote accompanies calf’s head or foot, sheep’s trotters, &c.
Two or three tablespoonfuls of the liquor with which its accompanying
solids have been cooked, _i.e._, calf’s head or sheep’s trotters
liquor, &c., are often added to this sauce when dishing up.
130—REMOULADE SAUCE
To one pint of Mayonnaise add one large tablespoonful of mustard,
another of gherkins, and yet another of chopped and pressed capers,
one tablespoonful of fine herbs, parsley, chervil, and tarragon, all
chopped and mixed, and a coffeespoonful of anchovy essence.
This sauce accompanies cold meat and poultry, and, more particularly,
common and spiny lobster.
131—GREEN SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of thick Mayonnaise and spicy seasoning,
and add to these, per pint of sauce, one-third pint of herb juice,
prepared as indicated hereafter (No. 132).
This is suitable for cold fish and shell fish.
132—VINCENT SAUCE
Prepare and carefully wash the following herbs:—One oz. each of
parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, sorrel-leaves, and fresh pimpernel,
two oz. of water-cress and two oz. of spinach. Put all these herbs into
a copper bowl containing salted, boiling water. Boil for two minutes
only; then drain the herbs in a sieve and immerse them in a basin
of fresh water. When they are cold they are once more drained until
quite dry; then they must be finely pounded with the yolks of eight
hard-boiled eggs. Rub the purée thus obtained through a sieve first,
then through tammy, add one pint of very stiff Mayonnaise to it and
finish the sauce with a dessertspoonful of Worcestershire sauce.
=Cold English Sauces=
133—CAMBRIDGE SAUCE
Pound together the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, the washed and dried
fillets of four anchovies, a teaspoonful of capers, a dessertspoonful
of chervil, tarragon, and chives, mixed. When the whole forms a fine
paste, add one tablespoonful of mustard, one-fifth pint of oil, one
tablespoonful of vinegar, and proceed as for a Mayonnaise. Season with
a little cayenne; rub through tammy, applying pressure with a spoon,
and put the sauce in a bowl. Stir it awhile with a whisk to smooth it,
and finish with one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
It is suited to cold meats in general; in fact, it is an Anglicised
version of Vincent Sauce.
134—CUMBERLAND SAUCE
Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, to which are
added one-fifth pint of port wine, one teaspoonful of finely-chopped
shallots, scalded for a few seconds and pressed, one teaspoonful
of small pieces of orange rind and as much lemon rind (cut finely,
_Julienne-fashion_, scalded for two minutes, well-drained, and cooled),
the juice of an orange and that of half a lemon, one teaspoonful of
mustard, a little cayenne pepper, and as much powdered ginger. Mix the
whole well.
Serve this sauce with cold venison.
135—GLOUCESTER SAUCE
Take one pint of very thick Mayonnaise and complete it with one-fifth
pint of sour cream with the juice of a lemon added, and combine with
the Mayonnaise by degrees; one teaspoonful of chopped fennel and as
much Worcester sauce.
Serve this with all cold meats.
136—MINT SAUCE
Cut finely, _Julienne-fashion_, or chop, two oz. of mint leaves. Put
these in a bowl with a little less than one oz. of white cassonade
or castor sugar, one-quarter pint of fresh vinegar, and four
tablespoonfuls of water.
Special sauce for hot or cold lamb.
137—OXFORD SAUCE
Make a Cumberland sauce according to No. 134, with this difference:
that the _Julienne_ of orange and lemon rinds should be replaced by
rasped or finely-chopped rinds, and that the quantities of same should
be less, _i.e._, two-thirds of a teaspoonful of each.
138—HORSE-RADISH SAUCE
Dilute one tablespoonful of mustard with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar
in a basin, and add one lb. of finely-rasped horse-radish, two oz.
of powdered sugar, a little salt, one pint of cream, and one lb. of
bread-crumb steeped in milk and pressed. Serve this sauce very cold.
It accompanies boiled and roast joints of beef.
=Compound Butters for Grills and for the Completion of Sauces=
With the exception of those of the shell-fish order, the butters,
whose formulæ I am about to give, are not greatly used in kitchens.
Nevertheless, in some cases, as, for instance, in accentuating the
savour of sauces, they answer a real and useful purpose, and I
therefore recommend them, since they enable one to give a flavour to
the derivatives of the Velouté and Béchamel sauces which these could
not acquire by any other means.
With regard to shell-fish butters, and particularly those of the common
and spiny lobster and the crayfish, experience has shown that when they
are prepared with heat (that is to say, by melting in a _bain-marie_ a
quantity of butter which has been previously pounded with shell-fish
remains and afterwards strained through muslin into a basin of
iced-water where it has solidified) they are of a finer colour than the
other kind and quite free from shell particles. But the heat, besides
dissipating a large proportion of their delicacy, involves considerable
risk, for the slightest neglect gives the above preparation quite a
disagreeable taste. To obviate these difficulties I have adopted a
system of two distinct butters, one which is exclusively calorific and
prepared with heat, and the other which is prepared with all the creamy
parts, the trimmings and the remains of common and spiny lobsters,
without the shells, pounded with the required quantity of fresh butter
and passed through a sieve. The latter is used to complete sauces,
particularly those with a Béchamel base to which it lends a perfect
savour.
I follow the same procedure with shrimp and crayfish butters, sometimes
substituting for the butter good cream, which, I find, absorbs the
aromatic principles perhaps better than the former. With the above
method it is advisable to pass the butter or the cream through a very
fine sieve first and afterwards through tammy, so as to avoid small
particles of the pounded shell being present in the sauce.
139—BERCY BUTTER
Put into a small stewpan one-quarter pint of white wine and one oz. of
finely-chopped shallots, scalded a moment. Reduce the wine by one-half,
and add one-half lb. of butter softened into a cream; one teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, two oz. of beef marrow cut into cubes, poached in
slightly salted water and well drained, the necessary table-salt, and,
when dishing up, a little ground pepper and a few drops of lemon-juice.
This butter must not be completely melted, and it is principally served
with grilled beef.
140—CHIVRY OR RAVIGOTE BUTTER
Put into a small saucepan of salted, boiling water six oz. of chervil,
parsley, tarragon, fresh pimpernel, and chives, in equal quantities,
and two oz. of chopped shallots. Boil quickly for two minutes, drain,
cool in cold water, press in a towel to completely remove the water,
and pound in a mortar. Now add one-half lb. of half-melted butter, mix
well with the purée of herbs, and pass through tammy.
This butter is used to complete Chivry sauce and other sauces that
contain herb juices, such as the Venetian, &c.
140a—CHÂTEAUBRIAND BUTTER
Reduce by two-thirds four-fifths pint of white wine containing four
chopped shallots, fragments of thyme and bay, and four oz. of mushroom
parings. Add four-fifths pint of veal gravy, reduce the whole to half,
rub it through tammy, and finish it away from the fire with eight oz.
of Maître d’Hôtel butter (No. 150) and half a tablespoonful of chopped
tarragon.
141—COLBERT BUTTER
Take one lb. of Maître d’Hôtel butter (No. 150) and add six
tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale meat glaze and one teaspoonful of
chopped tarragon.
Serve this sauce with fish prepared à la Colbert.
142—RED COLOURING BUTTER
Put on to a dish any available remains of shell-fish after having
thoroughly emptied and well dried them in the oven. Pound them until
they form a fine powder, and add their weight of butter.
Put the whole into a saucepan and melt in a _bain-marie_, stirring
frequently the while. When the butter is quite clarified strain it
through muslin, twisting the latter over a tureen of iced-water in
which the strained butter solidifies. Put the congealed butter in a
towel, press it heavily so as to expel the water, and keep cool in a
small bowl.
_Remarks._—A very fine and decided red colour is obtained by using
paprika as a condiment for sauces intended for poultry and certain
butcher’s meats, in accordance with the procedure I recommend for the
Hongroise. But only the very best quality should be used—that which is
mild and at the same time produces a nice pink colour without entailing
any excess of the condiment. Among the various kinds of paprika on the
market I can highly recommend that of Messrs. Kotangi, which I have
invariably found satisfactory.
143—GREEN COLOURING BUTTER
Peel, wash, and thoroughly shake (so as to get rid of every drop of
water) two lbs. of spinach. Pound it raw and then press it in a strong
towel, twisting the latter so as to extract all the vegetable juice.
Pour this juice into a sautépan, let it coagulate in a _bain-marie_,
and pour it on to a serviette stretched over a bowl in order to drain
away the water. Collect the remains of the colouring substance on the
serviette, making use of a palette-knife for the purpose, and put these
into a mortar; mix with half their weight of butter, strain through a
sieve or tammy, and put aside to cool. This green butter should in all
cases take the place of the liquid green found on the market.
144—VARIOUS CULLISES
Finely pound shrimp and crayfish shells, and combine with these the
available creamy parts and spawn of the common and spiny lobsters;
add one-quarter pint of rich cream per lb. of the above remains, and
strain, first through a fine sieve and then through tammy. This cullis
is prepared just in time for dishing up, and serves as a refining
principle in certain fish sauces.
145—SHRIMP BUTTER
Finely pound any available shrimp remains, add to these their weight of
butter, and strain through tammy. Place in a bowl and put aside in the
cool.
146—SHALLOT BUTTER
Put eight oz. of roughly minced shallots in the corner of a clean
towel, and wash them quickly in boiling water. Cool, and press them
heavily. Then pound them finely with their own weight of fresh butter
and strain through tammy.
This butter accentuates the savour of certain sauces, such as Bercy,
Ravigote, &c.
147—CRAYFISH BUTTER
Pound, very finely, the remains and shells of crayfish cooked in
Mirepoix. Add their weight of butter, and strain through a fine sieve,
and again through tammy, so as to avoid the presence of any shell
particles. This latter precaution applies to all shell-fish butters.
148—TARRAGON BUTTER
Quickly scald and cool eight oz. of fresh tarragon, drain, press in
a towel, pound in a mortar, and add to them one lb. of butter. Strain
through tammy, and put aside in the cool if it is not to be used
immediately.
149—LOBSTER BUTTER
Reduce to a paste in the mortar the spawn, shell, and creamy parts of
lobster. Add their equal in weight of butter and strain through tammy.
150—BUTTER A LA MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL
First manie and then soften into a cream one-half lb. of butter. Add a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and a few
drops of lemon-juice.
Serve this with grills in general.
151—MANIED BUTTER
Mix, until perfectly combined, four oz. of butter and three oz. of
sifted flour. This butter is made immediately before the time of
dishing up, and is used for quick leasons like the Matelotes, &c.
The sauce to which manied butter has been added should not boil if
this can possibly be avoided, as it would thereby acquire a very
disagreeable taste of raw flour.
151a—MELTED BUTTER
This preparation, which is used principally as a fish sauce, should
consist of butter, only just melted, and combined with a little
table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice. It should therefore be
prepared only at the last minute; for, should it wait and be allowed to
clarify, besides losing its flavour it will be found to disagree with
certain people.
152—BUTTER A LA MEUNIÈRE
Put into a frying-pan the necessary quantity of butter, and cook it
gently until it has acquired a golden tint and exudes a slight smell
of nut. Add a few drops of lemon-juice, and pour on the fish under
treatment, which should have been previously sprinkled with _concassed_
parsley.
This butter is proper to fish “à la Meunière” and is always served on
the fish.
153—MONTPELLIER BUTTER
Put into a saucepan containing boiling water equal quantities of
watercress leaves, parsley, chervil, chives, and tarragon (six oz. in
all), one and one-half oz. of chopped shallots, and one-half oz. of
spinach leaves. Boil for two minutes, then drain, cool, press in a
towel to expel water, and pound in a mortar with one tablespoonful of
pressed capers, four oz. of gherkins, a garlic clove, and the fillets
of four anchovies well washed.
Mix this paste with one and one-half lbs. of butter; then add the yolks
of three boiled eggs and two raw eggs, and finally pour in, by degrees,
two-fifths pint of oil. Strain through a fine sieve or through tammy,
put the butter into a basin, and stir it well with a wooden spoon so as
to make it smooth. Season with table-salt and a little cayenne.
Use this butter to deck large fish, such as salmon and trout; but it is
also used for smaller pieces and slices of fish.
_Remarks._—When this butter is specially prepared to form a coat on
fish, the oil and the egg yolks are omitted and only butter is used.
154—BLACK BUTTER
Put into a frying-pan the necessary amount of butter, and cook it until
it has assumed a brown colour and begins to smoke. At this moment add
a large pinch of _concassed_ parsley leaves and spread it immediately
over the object to be treated.
155—HAZEL-NUT BUTTER
Put eight oz. of shelled hazel-nuts, for a moment, in the front of
the oven, in order to slightly grill their skins and make them easily
removable. Now crush the nuts in a mortar until they form a paste, and
add a few drops of cold water with a view to preventing their producing
any oil. Add their equivalent in weight of butter and rub through tammy.
156—PISTACHIO BUTTER
Put into boiling water eight oz. of pistachios, and keep them on the
side of the fire until the peel may be easily removed. Drain, cool in
cold water, clean the pistachios, and finely pound while moistening
them with a few drops of water.
Add two oz. of butter and pass through tammy.
157—PRINTANIER BUTTER
These butters are made from all early-season vegetables, such as
carrots, French beans, peas, and asparagus heads.
When dealing with green vegetables cook quickly in boiling, salted
water, drain, dry, pound with their weight of butter, and rub through
tammy.
With carrots: Mince and cook with consommé, sugar, and butter until the
diluent is quite reduced. After cooling they are pounded with their own
weight of butter and rubbed through tammy.
CHAPTER V
=Savoury Jellies or Aspics=
Jellies are to cold cookery what consommés and stock are to hot.
If anything, the former are perhaps more important, for a cold
entrée—however perfect it may be in itself—is nothing without its
accompanying jelly.
In the recipes which I give hereafter I have made a point of showing
how melting jellies may be obtained, _i.e._, served in a sauce-boat
simultaneously with the cold comestible, or actually poured over it
when the latter lies in a deep dish—a common custom nowadays.
This method of serving cold entrées, which I inaugurated at the Savoy
Hotel with the “Suprême de Volaille Jeannette,” is the only one which
allows of serving a jelly in a state of absolute perfection.
Nevertheless, if a more solid jelly were required, either for the
decking of cold dishes or for a moulded entrée, there need only
be added to the following formulæ a few gelatine leaves—more or
less—according to the required firmness of the jelly.
But it should not be forgotten that the greater the viscosity of the
jelly the less value will the same possess.
The various uses of jellies are dealt with in Part II. of this work,
where the formulæ of their divers accompanying dishes will also appear.
158—ORDINARY ASPICS
_Stock for Ordinary Aspic.—Quantities for making Four Quarts._
4 lbs. of strung knuckle of veal.
3 lbs. of strung knuckle of beef.
3 lbs. of veal bones, well broken up.
3 calf’s feet, boned and blanched.
½ lb. of fresh pork rind, well blanched and with fat removed.
_Mode of Procedure._—Put the meats in a very clean and well-tinned
stockpot or stewpan. Add eight quarts of cold water, boil, and skim
after the manner indicated under No. 1. Having well skimmed the stock
add one oz. of salt, put it on the side of the fire, and let it boil
gently for four hours. Then remove the meat, taking care not to disturb
the stock. Carefully remove the fat, and garnish with one-half lb. of
carrots, six oz. of onions, two oz. of leeks, a stick of celery, and a
large faggot. Put the whole back on to the fire and cook gently for a
further two hours. Strain through a sieve into a very clean basin and
leave to cool.
_Clarification of Aspic._—When the stock, prepared according to the
above directions, has cooled, the grease that has formed on its surface
should be removed. Then pour off gently into a stewpan of convenient
size in such a way as to prevent the deposit at the bottom of the basin
from mixing with the clear liquor. Test the consistence of the aspic,
when it should be found that the quantities given above have proved
sufficient to form a fairly firm jelly. If, however, this be not the
case, a few leaves of gelatine steeped in cold water should be added,
being careful not to overdo the quantity. Now add to the stock two lbs.
of lean beef (first minced and then pounded together with the white of
an egg), a little chervil and tarragon, and a few drops of lemon-juice.
Place the saucepan on an open fire, stir its contents with a spatula
until the liquid begins to boil, remove it from the fire, and place it
on the side of the stove, where it may boil gently for half an hour.
At the end of this time take the saucepan off the fire and remove what
little grease has formed on the aspic while cooking. Strain through
a serviette stretched and fastened across the legs of an overturned
stool, and let the aspic fall into a basin placed between the legs.
Ascertain whether the liquid is quite clear, and if, as frequently
happens, this be not the case, what has already been strained should
once more be passed through the serviette, renewing the operation
until the aspic becomes quite transparent.
_Flavouring the Aspic._—The aspic obtained as above is limpid, has an
agreeable savour, and is the colour of fine amber. It now only requires
flavouring according to the tastes of the consumer and the purpose for
which it is intended. For this operation it should be allowed to become
quite tepid, and the following quantities of choice wine are added to
it, viz.:—
If the wine is of a liqueur kind, such as Sherry, Marsala,
Madeira, &c., one-fifth pint per quart.
If it is another kind of wine, for example, champagne, hock, &c.,
one-fourth pint per quart.
The wine used should be very clear, free from any deposit, and as
perfect as possible in taste.
159—CHICKEN ASPIC
The quantities of meat are the same as for ordinary aspic; there need
only be added to it either two oven-browned hens, or their equivalent
in weight of roasted fowl carcases, and poultry giblets if these are
handy. It is always better, however, to prepare the stock with the
hens and giblets and to keep the carcases for the clarification. This
clarification follows the same rules as that of the ordinary aspic,
except that a few roasted-fowl carcases, previously well freed from
fat, are added to it.
In the case of this particularly delicate aspic, it is more than ever
necessary not to overdo the amount of gelatine. It should be easily
soluble to the palate in order to be perfect.
160—GAME ASPIC
Prepare this aspic stock in exactly the same way as that of ordinary
aspic, only substitute game, such as deer, roebuck, doe, or hare,
or wild rabbit (previously browned in the oven), for the beef. When
possible also add to this stock a few old specimens of feathered game,
such as partridges or pheasants that are too tough for other purposes
and which suit admirably here.
The clarification changes according to the different flavours which are
to be given to the aspic. If it is not necessary to give it a special
characteristic, it should be prepared with the meat of that ground game
which happens to be most available at the time, adding to the quantity
used roast carcases of feathered game, the respective amounts of both
ingredients being the same as for ordinary aspic. If, on the other
hand, the aspic is to have a well-defined flavour, the meat used for
the clarification should naturally be that producing the flavour in
question, _i.e._, either partridge or pheasant, or hazel-hen, &c.
Some aspics are greatly improved by being flavoured with a small
quantity of old brandy. Rather than use an inferior kind of this
ingredient, however, I should advise its total omission from the aspic.
Without aromatisation the aspic, though imperfect, is passable; but
aromatised with bad brandy it is invariably spoilt.
LENTEN ASPICS
161—FISH ASPIC WITH WHITE WINE
The stock for this aspic is prepared in precisely the same manner as
fish stock, No. 1. The stewpan need not, however, be buttered previous
to the insertion of the onions, parsley-stalks, and fish-bones. If the
aspic is not required to be quite white, a little saffron may be added
to it, as the aroma of this condiment blends so perfectly with that of
fish.
When the stock is prepared its consistence should be tested, and
rectified, if necessary, by means of gelatine. The quantity of this
substance should on no account exceed eight leaves per quart of aspic,
and, at the risk of repeating myself, I remind the reader that the less
gelatine is used the better the aspic will be.
The clarification should be made with fresh caviare if possible,
but pressed caviare is also admirably suited to this purpose. The
quantities are the same as for the clarification of fish consommé,
No. 4.
In flavouring white fish aspics either dry champagne or a good Bordeaux
or Burgundy may be used. Take care, however—
1. That the wine used be of an unquestionably good quality.
2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already
cold and on the point of coagulating, as this is the only means of
preserving all the aroma of the wine.
Finally, in certain cases, a special flavour may be obtained by the use
of crayfish, which are cooked, as for bisque, then pounded, and added
to the fish stock No. 11 ten minutes before straining it. A proportion
of four little crayfish à bisque per quart of aspic is sufficient to
secure an excellent aroma.
162—FISH ASPIC WITH RED WINE
This aspic stock is the _Court-bouillon_ with red wine No. 165, which
has served in cooking the fish for which the aspic is intended; this
fish is generally either trout or salmon; sometimes also, but less
commonly, a carp or a pike.
This stock must first of all have its grease thoroughly removed; it
should then be poured carefully away, reduced if necessary, and the
required quantity of gelatine added. This cannot be easily determined,
as all gelatines are not alike, and the stock may have contracted a
certain consistence from its contact with the fish. One can, therefore,
only be guided by testing small quantities cooled in ice, but care
should be taken that the aspic be not too firm.
The clarification of this aspic is generally made with white of egg
in the proportion of one white per quart. The white, half-whisked,
is added to the cold stock, and the latter is put over an open fire
and stirred with a spatula. As soon as it boils, the aspic is poured
through a serviette fixed on to the legs of an overturned stool. The
first drippings of the fluid are put back on to the serviette if they
do not seem clear, and this operation is repeated until the required
clearness is obtained.
It almost invariably happens that, either during the cooking of the
fish or during the clarification, the wine loses its colour through the
precipitation of the colouring elements derived from the tannin.
The only way of overcoming this difficulty is to add a few drops of
liquid carmine or vegetable red; but, in any case, it is well to
remember that the colour of red-wine aspic must never be deeper than a
sombre pink.
CHAPTER VI
=The Court-bouillons and the Marinades=
163—COURT-BOUILLON WITH VINEGAR
_Quantities Required for Five Quarts._
5 quarts of water.
½ pint of vinegar.
2 oz. of gray salt.
½ oz. of peppercorns.
¾ lb. of carrots.
1 lb. of onions.
A little thyme and bay.
2 oz. of parsley stalks.
_Preparation._—Put into a saucepan the water, salt, and vinegar, the
minced carrots and onions, and the parsley, thyme, and bay, gathered
into a bunch. Boil, allow to simmer for one hour, rub through tammy,
and put aside until wanted.
_Remarks._—Put the peppercorns into the _court-bouillon_ only twelve
minutes before straining the latter. If the pepper were in for too long
a time it would give a bitterness to the preparation. This rule also
applies to the formulæ that follow, in which the use of peppercorns is
also required.
This _court-bouillon_ is principally used for cooking trout and salmon,
as well as for various shell-fish.
164—COURT-BOUILLON WITH WHITE WINE
_Quantities Required for Two Quarts._
1 quart of white wine.
1 quart of water.
3 oz. of minced onions.
1 large faggot.
½ oz. of gray salt.
A few peppercorns.
_Preparation._—This is the same as for the _court-bouillon_ with
vinegar, except that it is boiled for half an hour and is strained
through tammy.
_Remarks._—If the _court-bouillon_ has to be reduced the quantity of
salt should be proportionately less. This preparation is principally
used for poaching fresh-water fish.
165—COURT-BOUILLON WITH RED WINE
Use the same quantities as for _court-bouillon_ with white wine, taking
care—
1. To replace white wine by excellent red wine.
2. To add four oz. of minced carrots.
3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds
to one-third.
_Preparation._—The same as that of the former, with the same time for
boiling.
_Remarks._—If the _court-bouillon_ is to be reduced, the salt should
be less accordingly. When the _court-bouillon_ with red wine is to
constitute an aspic stock, fish _fumet_ with enough gelatine takes the
place of the water.
The uses of _court-bouillon_ with red wine are similar to those of the
white-wine kind.
166—PLAIN COURT-BOUILLON
The quantity of _court-bouillon_ is determined by the size of the
piece which it is to cover. It is composed of cold, salt water (the
salt amounting to a little less than one-half oz. per quart of water),
one-quarter pint of milk per quart of water, and one thin slice of
peeled lemon in the same proportion. The fish is immersed while the
liquor is cold; the latter is very slowly brought to the boil, and as
soon as this is reached, the receptacle is moved to the side of the
fire, where the cooking of the fish is completed.
This _court-bouillon_, which is used with large pieces of turbot and
brill, is never prepared beforehand.
167—SPECIAL COURT-BOUILLON, OR BLANC
This preparation is a genuine _court-bouillon_, though it is not used
in cooking fish.
_The Quantities Required for Five Quarts of this Court-bouillon are_:—
A little less than 2 oz. of flour.
1½ oz. of grey salt.
The juice of 3 lemons or ⅛ pint of good vinegar.
5 quarts of cold water.
Gradually mix the flour and the water; add the salt and the lemon
juice, and pass through a strainer. Set to boil, and stir the mixture
the while, in order to prevent the flour from precipitating; as soon
as the boil is reached, immerse the objects to be treated. These are
usually calf’s head or foot, previously blanched; sheep’s trotters,
cocks’ kidneys or combs, or such vegetables as salsify, cardoon, &c.
=Remarks upon the Use of Court-bouillon.=
1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish,
the time for poaching which is less than half an hour, except turbots
and brills.
2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an
hour’s poaching, proceed as follows:—Place under the drainer of the
fish-kettle the minced carrots and onions and the faggot; put the fish
on the drainer, and cover it with water and vinegar, or white wine, in
accordance with the kind of _court-bouillon_ wanted and the quantity
required. Add the salt, boil, and keep the _court-bouillon_ gently
simmering for a period of time fixed by the weight of the fish. The
time allowed for poaching the latter will be given in their respective
formulæ.
3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when
sliced, in the same liquor, boiling. The exceptions to this rule are
small trout “au bleu” and shell-fish.
4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the
drainer and the liquid elements of the selected _court-bouillon_ (as,
for example, that with red or white wine) are so calculated as to cover
only one-third of the solid body. Fish cooked in this way should be
frequently basted.
5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at
full boiling pitch when these are immersed. The case is the same for
small or medium fish “au bleu.”
6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the
_court-bouillon_ itself; the cooking period is consequently curtailed.
=Marinades and Brines.=
_Marinades_ play but a small part in English cookery, venison or other
ground-game being generally preferred fresh. However, in the event of
its being necessary to resort to these methods of preparation, I shall
give two formulæ for venison and two for mutton.
The use of the _marinade_ for venison is very much debated. Certainly
it is often desirable that the fibre of those meats that come from old
specimens of the deer and boar species be softened, but there is no
doubt that what the meat gains in tenderness it loses in flavour. On
the whole, therefore, it would be best to use only those joints which
come from young beasts.
In the case of the latter, the _marinade_ may well be dispensed with.
It would add nothing to the savour of a haunch of venison, such as may
be got in England, while it would be equally ineffectual in the case
of the roebuck or hare. A summary treatment of these two, with raw
_marinade_, may well be adopted, as also for deer.
As for cooked _marinade_, its real and only use lies in the fact that
during stormy summer weather it enables one to preserve meat which
would otherwise have to be wasted. It may, moreover, be used for
braised venison, but this treatment of game is very uncommon nowadays.
168—COOKED MARINADE FOR VENISON
_Quantities Required for Five Quarts._
½ lb. of minced carrots.
½ lb. of minced onions.
2 oz. of minced shallots.
1 crushed garlic clove.
1 faggot, including 1 oz. of parsley stalks, 2 sprigs of rosemary,
as much thyme, and 2 bay leaves.
_Preparation._—Heat one-half pint of oil in a stewpan, add the carrots
and onions, and fry them while stirring frequently. When they begin to
brown add the shallots, the garlic, and the faggot, then one pint of
vinegar, two bottles of white wine, and three quarts of water. Cook
this _marinade_ for twenty minutes, and add a further two oz. of salt,
one-half oz. of peppercorns, and four oz. of brown sugar. Ten minutes
afterwards pass it through a strainer and let it cool before inserting
the meats.
N.B.—In summer the _marinade_ very often decomposes, because of the
blood contained by the meat under treatment in it. The only means of
averting this is to boil the _marinade_ every two or three days at
least.
169—RAW MARINADE FOR BUTCHER’S MEAT OR VENISON
This _marinade_ is prepared immediately before using. The meat to be
treated is first salted and peppered on all sides, then it is put in a
receptacle just large enough to hold it, and laid therein on a litter
of aromatics, including minced carrots and onions, a few chopped
shallots, parsley stalks, thyme, and bay in proportion to the rest. Now
sprinkle the meat copiously with oil and half as much vinegar; cover
the dish with oil-paper, and put it somewhere in the cool. Remember to
turn the meat over three or four times a day, covering it each time
with a layer of vegetables.
This _marinade_ is very active, and is admirably suited to all
butcher’s meat and venison, provided these be not allowed to remain in
it for too long a time. It is very difficult to say how long the meat
must stay in these _marinades_; the time varies according to the size
and quality of the joints, and the taste of the consumer, &c. All that
can be said is that three hours should be sufficient to _marinade_ a
cutlet or escalope of roebuck, and that for big joints such as saddle
or leg the time should not exceed four days.
170—MARINADE FOR MUTTON, ROEBUCK-STYLE
This is exactly the same as cooked _marinade_, No. 168. There need only
be added one oz. of juniper berries, a few sprigs of rosemary, wild
thyme, and basil, two extra garlic cloves, and one quart less of water.
171—MARINADE WITH RED WINE FOR MUTTON
By substituting red wine for white in the preceding formula—the
quantity of the liquid equalling that of the water—and by slightly
increasing the quantity of aromatics, an excellent _marinade_ for
mutton is obtained, which in summer enables one to preserve meat,
otherwise perishable, for some days.
172—BRINE
_Quantities Required for Fifty Quarts._
56 lbs. of gray salt.
50 quarts of water.
6 lbs. of saltpetre.
3½ lbs. of brown sugar.
_Mode of Procedure._—Put the salt and the water in a tinned copper pan,
and put it on an open fire. When the water boils, throw in a peeled
potato, and, if the latter float, add water until it begins to sink.
If, on the contrary, the potato should sink immediately, reduce the
liquid until it is able to buoy the tuber up. At this stage the sugar
and saltpetre are added; let them dissolve, and the brine is then
removed from the fire and is allowed to cool. It is then poured into
the receptacle intended for it, which must be either of slate, stone,
cement, or well-jointed tiles. It is well to place in the bottom of
this reservoir a wooden lattice, whereon the meats to be salted may be
laid, for, were the immersed objects to lie directly on the bottom of
the receptacle, the under parts would be entirely shielded from the
brine.
If the meats to be salted are of an appreciable size, they should be
inoculated with brine by means of a special syringe. Without this
measure it would be impossible to salt regularly, as the sides would
already be over-saturated before the centre had even been properly
reached.
Eight days should be allowed for salting a piece of beef of what size
soever, above eight or ten lb., since the process of inoculation
equalises the salting.
Ox-tongue intended for salting, besides having to be as fresh as
possible, must be trimmed of almost all the cartilage of the throat,
and carefully beaten either with a beater or roller. Then it must be
pricked on all sides with a string-needle, and immersed in the liquid,
where it should be slightly weighted by some means or other in order
to prevent its rising to the surface. A medium-sized tongue would need
about seven days’ immersion in the brine.
Though brine does not turn as easily as the cooked _marinades_,
it would be well, especially in stormy weather, to watch it and
occasionally to boil it. But, as the process of boiling invariably
concentrates the brine, a little water should be added to it every time
it is so treated, and the test of the potato, described above, should
always be resorted to.
CHAPTER VII
=1. Elementary Preparations=
Before broaching the question of the numerous preparations which
constitute the various soup, relevé, and entrée garnishes, it will be
necessary to give the formulæ of the elementary preparations, or what
are technically called the _mise en place_. If the various operations
which go to make the _mise en place_ were not, at least summarily,
discussed here, I should be compelled to repeat them in each formula
for which they are required—that is to say, in almost every formula. I
should thus resemble those bad operators who, having neglected their
_mise en place_, are obliged to make it in the course of other work,
and thereby not only run the risk of making it badly, but also of
losing valuable time which might be used to better advantage.
Elementary preparations consist of those things whereof one is
constantly in need, which may be prepared in advance, and which are
kept available for use at a moment’s notice.
173—ANCHOVIES (FILLETS OF)
Whether they be for hors d’œuvres or for culinary use, it is always
best to have these handy.
After having washed and well wiped them, in order to remove the white
powder resulting from the little scales with which they are covered,
they should be neatly trimmed to the shape of extended oblongs. Then
detach the fillets from the bones by gentle pulling, divide each fillet
lengthwise into three or four smaller fillets, put the latter into
a small narrow dish or a little bowl, and cover them with oil. The
fillets may also be kept whole with a view to rolling them into rings.
174—ANGLAISE (FOR EGG-AND-BREAD-CRUMBING)
It is well to have this always ready for those dishes which are to be
_panés à l’anglaise_, or as many of the recipes direct: _treated à
l’anglaise_.
It is made of well-whisked eggs, salt, pepper, and one dessertspoonful
of oil per couple of eggs.
_Its Uses._—The solids to be _panés à l’anglaise_ are dipped into the
preparation described above, taking care that the latter coats them
thoroughly; whereupon, according to the requirements, they are rolled
either in bread-crumbs or in fine raspings. From this combination
of egg with bread-crumbs or raspings there results a kind of coat
which, at the moment of contact with the hot fat, is immediately
converted into a resisting crust. In _croquettes_ this crust checks the
escape, into the fat, of the substances it encloses, and this is more
especially the case when the _croquettes_ contain some reduced sauce,
or are composed of raw meats or fish whose juices are thereby entirely
retained. A solid prepared _à l’anglaise_ and cooked in fat should
always be put into the latter when this is very hot, so as to ensure
the instantaneous solidification of the egg and bread-crumbs.
N.B.—Objects to be treated _à l’anglaise_ are generally rolled in
flour before being immersed in the _anglaise_, for the flour helps the
foregoing to adhere to the object.
The crust formed over the solid thus acquires a density which is
indispensable.
174a—AROMATICS
Aromatics play a very prominent part in cookery, and their combination
with the condiments constitutes, as Grimod de la Reynière said, “the
hidden soul of cooking.” Their real object, in fact, is to throw the
savour of dishes into relief, to intensify that savour, and to give
each culinary preparation its particular stamp.
They are all derived from the vegetable kingdom; but, while some are
used dry, others are used fresh.
The first-named should belong to the permanent kitchen stock; they are:
_sage_, _basil_, _rosemary_, _sweet marjoram_, _thyme_, and _bay_.
Also to be included in the permanent stock are: _cinnamon_, _ginger_,
_juniper-berries_, _nutmeg_, _cloves_, _mace_, and _vanilla_.
The last-named comprise those aromatic herbs used fresh, such as:
_parsley_, _chervil_, _tarragon_, _pimpernel_, and _common savory_;
while, under this head, there may also be included: bits of common- and
Seville-orange rind and _zests_ of lemon rind.
174b—SEASONING AND CONDIMENTS
Seasonings are divided into several classes, which comprise:—
1. _Saline seasonings._—Salt, spiced salt, saltpetre.
2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with
tarragon; verjuice, lemon juice, and common- or Seville-orange
juices.
3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or
mignonette; paprika, curry, cayenne, and compound spices.
4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey.
Condiments are likewise subdivided, the three classes being:—
1. _The pungents._—Onions, shallots, garlic, chives, and horseradish.
2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such
as Worcester, Harvey, Ketchup, Escoffier’s sauces, &c.; the wines
used in reductions and braisings; the finishing elements of sauces
and soups.
3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases
(edible oils and cocoanut butter).
_Remarks._—In cookery it should be borne in mind that both excellence
and eatableness depend entirely upon a judicious use and a rational
blending of the aromatics, seasonings, and condiments. And, according
as the latter have been used and apportioned, their action will be
either beneficial or injurious to the health of the consumer.
In the matter of seasoning there can be no question of approximation or
half measures; the quantities must be exact, allowing only of slight
elasticity in respect of the various tastes to be satisfied.
175—CLARIFIED BUTTER
A certain quantity of clarified butter should always be kept ready and
handy.
To prepare this butter, put one lb. to melt in a saucepan large enough
to hold twice that amount. Place the saucepan on the side of the fire,
over moderate heat; remove all the scum which rises to the surface,
and, when the butter looks quite clear and all foreign substances have
dropped to the bottom, put the liquid carefully away and strain it
through muslin.
176—FAGGOTS (BOUQUETS GARNIS)
The name “faggot” is given to those little bunches of aromatics which,
when the contrary is not stated, are generally composed (in order to
weigh one ounce) of eight-tenths oz. of parsley stalks and roots,
one-tenth oz. of bay leaves, and one-tenth oz. of thyme. These various
aromatics are put neatly together so that no sprig of the one sticks
out beyond the others, and they are properly strung together.
177—CHERVIL
_Chopped Chervil._—Clean the chervil and remove the stalks; wash, dry
it well while tossing it, then chop it finely and put it aside on a
plate in the cool, if it is not for immediate use.
_Concassed Chervil._—Proceed as above, except that, instead of chopping
it, compress it between the fingers and slice it after the manner of a
chaff-cutter. _Concassed_ and chopped chervil are, if possible, only
prepared at the last moment.
_Chervil Pluches._—The pluches are greatly used in the finishing off
of soups. They are, practically, the serrated portions only of the
leaves, which are torn away in such a manner as to show no trace of the
veinings. They are immersed in water, and at the last moment withdrawn,
so as to be added, raw, to either soups or boiling consommés.
178—RASPINGS
Golden raspings are obtained by pounding and passing through a fine
sieve bread-crusts which have been previously well dried in the oven.
_White raspings_ are similarly prepared, except that very dry, white
crumb is used.
179—PEELED, CHANNELLED, AND ZESTED LEMONS
Lemons are greatly used in cookery, as dish and comestible
garnish. When a whole lemon is used for marinades of fish, for the
“_blancs_,” &c., it is well to peel it to the pulp, _i.e._, to remove
the peel and the whole of the underlying white. The lemon is then cut
into more or less large slices, according to the use for which it is
intended.
The rind of a lemon thus peeled may be cut into bits and used in this
form as the necessity arises. When cutting it up, flatten the rind
inside uppermost on the table, and, with a very sharp and flexible
knife, remove all the white; then slice the remaining peel (which
constitutes what is called _zest_) into strips about one inch wide, and
cut these laterally in fine _julienne-fashion_.
Scald the resulting bits for five minutes, cool them, drain them
carefully, and put them aside until wanted. Sometimes, instead of
cutting _julienne-fashion_, the _zest_ may be finely chopped, but the
rest of the process remains the same.
Lemons are channelled by means of a little knife, or a special
instrument for the purpose, which excises parallel ribbons from the
surface of the rind and lays the white bare. A lemon channelled in this
way is cut in two, lengthwise with the core; its two extremities are
removed, and the two halves are cut laterally into thin, regular slices
to look like serrated half-discs.
The lemon may also be cut at right angles to the core.
Fried fish, oysters, and certain game are generally garnished with
lemon slices fashioned according to the taste of the cook; but the
simplest, and perhaps the best, way is to cut the lemon through the
centre, after having trimmed the two ends quite straight, and then to
remove the rind roughly from the edge.
For whatever purpose the lemon be intended, it should be, as far as
possible, only prepared at the last moment. If it must be prepared
beforehand, it would be well to keep it in a bowl of fresh water.
180—SHALLOTS
_Chopped Shallots._—Clean the shallots, and, by means of a very sharp
knife, cut them lengthwise into thin slices; let these cling together
by not allowing the knife to cut quite through them, and, this done,
turn them half round and proceed in the same way at right angles to the
other cuts.
Finally, cut them laterally, and this will be found to produce very
fine and regular, small cubes.
_Ciseled Shallots._—The name “_ciseled_ shallots” is often erroneously
given to those shallots resulting from the above process.
But _ciseled_ shallots are merely laterally sliced, the result of which
operation is a series of thin, regular discs. _Ciseled_ or chopped
shallots should, when possible, only be prepared when required; if,
however, they must be treated in advance, they should be kept somewhere
in the cool until wanted.
181—SPICES
Strictly speaking, spices include cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, mace; and
the many varieties of peppers and pimenta, cayenne, paprika, &c.
These various condiments are found ready-made on the market, and they
need only be kept dry in air-tight boxes in order to prevent the escape
of their aroma.
But there is another kind of preparation, in cookery, to which the
name of spice or all-spice is more especially given. Nowadays several
market varieties of this preparation exist, and vie with each other for
custom, though in most cases they deserve it equally well.
Formerly this was not so, and every chef had his own formula.
The following is a recipe for the spice in question, which would be
found useful if it had to be prepared at a moment’s notice:—
_Obtain the following, very dry._
5 oz. of bay leaves.
3 oz. of thyme (half of it wild, if possible).
3 oz. of coriander.
4 oz. of cinnamon.
6 oz. of nutmeg.
4 oz. of cloves.
3 oz. of ginger-root.
3 oz. of mace.
10 oz. of mixed pepper (half black and half white).
1 oz. of cayenne.
Put all these ingredients into a mortar and pound them until they are
all able to pass through a very fine sieve. Put the resulting powder
into an air-tight box, which must be kept dry.
Before being used, this spice is generally mixed with salt (No. 188).
182—FLOUR
For whatever use the flour is intended, it is always best to sift it.
This is more particularly necessary in the case of flour used for
coating objects to be fried; for the latter, being first dipped into
milk, must of necessity let a few drops of that liquid fall into the
flour they are rolled in. Lumps would therefore form, which might
adhere to the objects to be fried if the flour were not sifted.
183—HERB JUICE
This is to finish or intensify certain preparations.
To prepare it, throw into a small saucepan of boiling water some
parsley, chervil, and tarragon and chive leaves, in equal quantities,
according to the amount of juice required.
Set to boil for two minutes, drain, cool, press the herbs in a towel,
twisting the latter; pound very finely, and extract the juice from the
resulting paste by twisting a strong towel round it.
Keep this juice in the cool.
184—BREAD-CRUMBS
Thoroughly rub, in a closed towel, some stale bread-crumb previously
well broken up. Pass it through a fine sieve or colander, according
as to whether it is required very fine or not, and put it aside in a
convenient receptacle.
185—CHOPPED ONION
Cut the onion finely, like the shallots, but if it is to be minced
with a view to making it even finer, it should be freed of its pungent
juice, which would cause it to blacken with exposure to the air.
To accomplish this, put the onion in the corner of a towel, pour plenty
of cold water over it, and twist the towel in order to express the
water. By this means the onion remains quite white.
186—TURNED OR STONED OLIVES
There are special instruments for stoning olives, but, failing these,
cut the fruit spirally from the stone with the point of a small knife.
Keep the olives in slightly salted water.
187—PARSLEY
_Chopped Parsley._—If parsley be properly chopped, no juice should be
produced. If, on the contrary, the operation be performed badly, it
amounts to a process of pounding which, perforce, expresses the juice.
In the latter case the particles cohere, and they are sprinkled with
difficulty over an object. To remedy this shortcoming, wash the
choppings in fresh water, as in the case of the onion, pressing in a
similar manner so as to expel the water.
_Concassed Parsley_ is that kind which is roughly chopped. When a
culinary preparation is dressed with _concassed_ parsley, the latter
should be added to it a few moments before serving, in order to undergo
a slight cooking process; whereas chopped parsley may be strewn over a
dish at the last moment.
It should be remembered that parsley, when quite fresh and used in
moderation, is an excellent thing; but, should it have remained too
long in the heat, it becomes quite insufferable.
I cannot, therefore, too strongly urge the advisability of using it in
the freshest possible state, and it would even be wiser to discard it
entirely than to be forced to ignore this condition.
_Parsley Sprays._—These are chiefly used in garnishing dishes, and
it is well for the purpose to make as much use as possible of the
curled-leaf kind, after having removed the long stalks. Keep the sprays
in fresh water until required.
_Fried Parsley._—This consists of the sprays, well drained of water
after washing, and immersed for an instant in very hot fat. The moment
it is fried carefully drain it, salt it, and place it in a clean towel,
where it may get rid of any superfluous grease. It is used to dress
fried viands.
188—SALT
Two kinds of salt are used in cooking, viz., grey, or sea-salt, and
rock-salt. Grey-salt is used more especially for Brines and in the
preparation of ices, as its grey colour does not allow of its being
used indiscriminately.
Be this as it may, many prefer it to rock-salt for the salting of
stock-pots, roasts, and grills. For the last two purposes it is crushed
with a roller, without being pounded, and the result should be such
that every grain is distinctly perceptible to the touch.
This salt, in melting over a roast or a grill, certainly imparts a
supplementary flavour to the latter which could not be got with the use
of rock-salt.
_Rock-salt._—This is found on the market in the forms of cooking and
table-salt. If the kitchen is only supplied with cooking salt, the
quantity required for several days should be dried, pounded in the
mortar, and passed through a fine sieve; and then put aside in a dry
place for use when wanted. Even table-salt, as it reaches one from the
purveyor, sometimes needs drying and passing through a sieve before
being used.
_Spiced Salt._—This condiment, which serves an important purpose in
the preparation of pies and galantines, is obtained from a mixture of
one lb. of table salt with three and one-half oz. of spices (No. 181).
This kind of salt should be carefully kept in a very dry place.
=2. The Various Kinds of Garnishes for Soups, Relevés, and Entrées, Hot
or Cold=
STUFFINGS AND FORCEMEATS
189—VARIOUS PANADAS FOR STUFFINGS
Panadas are those preparations which go to make the leason of
forcemeats and which ensure their proper consistence when they are
cooked. They are not necessary to every forcemeat; for the _mousseline_
kind, which are the finest and lightest, do not require them.
Nevertheless, they are useful for varying the taste and the uses of
forcemeats, and I thought it advisable to introduce them here. The
reader will thus be able to use either forcemeats with a panada base or
_mousseline_ forcemeats; in accordance with the requirements and his
resources.
190—A. BREAD PANADA
Put one-half lb. of the crumb of bread and one-half oz. of salt into
one-half pint of boiling milk. When the crumb has absorbed all the
milk, place the saucepan over a brisk fire and stir with a spatula
until the paste has become so thick as not to cling any longer to the
end of the spatula. Turn the contents of the saucepan into a buttered
platter, and lightly butter the surface of the panada in order to avoid
its drying while it cools.
191—B. FLOUR PANADA
Put into a small saucepan one-half pint of water, a little salt,
and two oz. of butter. When the liquid boils add five oz. of sifted
flour thereto, stirring the while over a brisk fire until it reaches
the consistence described in the case of bread panada. Use the same
precautions with regard to cooling.
192—C. FRANGIPAN PANADA
Put into a stewpan four oz. of sifted flour, the yolks of four eggs, a
little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Now add by degrees three oz. of melted
butter and dilute with one-half pint of boiled milk. Pass through a
strainer, stir over the fire until the boil is reached; set to cook
for five minutes while gently wielding the whisk, and cool as in the
preceding cases.
193—CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH PANADA AND BUTTER
Remove the tendons from, and cut into cubes, one lb. of chicken-meat.
Pound, and add one-third oz. of salt, a little pepper and nutmeg. When
the meat is well pounded remove it from the mortar, and place in its
stead one-half lb. of very cold panada (see No. 190). Finely pound
this panada, and then add one-half lb. of butter thereto, taking care
that the two ingredients mix thoroughly. Now put in the chicken-meat,
and wield the pestle vigorously until the whole mass is completely
mixed. Finally, add consecutively two whole eggs and the yolks of
four, stirring incessantly the while and seeing that each egg is only
inserted when the one preceding it has become perfectly incorporated
with the mass. Rub through a sieve, put the forcemeat into a basin, and
smooth it with a wooden spoon.
Test the forcemeat by poaching a small portion of it in salted, boiling
water. This test, which is indispensable, allows of rectifying the
seasoning and the consistence if necessary. If it be found that the
forcemeat is too light, a little white of egg could be mingled with
it; if, on the other hand, it should be too stiff add a little softened
butter.
N.B.—By substituting for chicken veal, game, or fish, &c., any kind
of forcemeat may be made; for the quantities of the other ingredients
remain the same whatever the basic meat may be.
194—CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH PANADA AND CREAM
(=For Fine Quenelles.=)
Finely pound one lb. of chicken-meat after having removed the tendons,
and seasoned with one-quarter oz. of salt, a little pepper and nutmeg.
When the meat has been reduced to a fine paste, add, very gradually,
two oz. of white of egg. Finish with seven oz. of Frangipan panada
(No. 192), and work vigorously with the pestle until the whole is
amalgamated. Strain through a fine sieve, put the forcemeat into a
vegetable-pan sufficiently large to allow of ultimately working it with
ease, and place it on ice for a good hour.
This done, stir the forcemeat (still on the ice) for a few seconds with
a wooden spoon, then add, in small quantities at a time, one pint of
raw cream. At this stage complete the preparation by adding thereto
one-half pint of whipped cream. It should then be found to be very
white, smooth, and mellow. Test as directed in the preceding recipe,
and add a little white of egg if it be too light, and a little cream if
it be too stiff.
N.B.—This forcemeat may be prepared from all butcher’s meats, game, or
fish.
195—FINE CHICKEN FORCEMEAT OR “MOUSSELINE”
Remove the tendons from, trim, and cut into cubes, one lb. of
chicken-meat. Season with one oz. of salt, a little pepper and nutmeg.
Finely pound, and, when it is reduced to a paste, gradually add the
whites of two eggs, vigorously working with the pestle meanwhile.
Strain through a fine sieve, put the forcemeat into a vegetable-pan,
stir it once more with the wooden spoon for a moment or two, and
combine with it, gradually, one pint of thick, fresh cream, working
with great caution and keeping the receptacle on ice.
_Remarks Relative to Mousseline Forcemeat._—This, like the preceding
forcemeats, may be prepared from any kind of meat. The addition of
the white of egg is not essential if the meats used already possess a
certain quantity of albumen; but without the white of egg the forcemeat
absorbs much less cream.
This forcemeat is particularly suited to preparations with a shell-fish
base. Incomparably delicate results are obtained by the process, while
it also furnishes ideal quenelles for the purpose of garnishing soup.
In a word, it may be said of mousseline forcemeat that, whereas it can
replace all other kinds, none of these can replace it.
N.B.—_Mousseline forcemeats_ of all kinds, with meat, poultry, game,
fish, or shell-fish, may be made according to the principles and
quantities given above.
196—PORK FORCEMEAT FOR DIVERS USES
Remove the tendons of, and cut into large cubes, two lbs. of fillet
of pork, and the same weight of fresh, fat bacon. Season with one and
three-quarter oz. of spiced salt (No. 188), chop the fillet and bacon
up, together or separately, pound them finely in the mortar, and finish
with two eggs and two tablespoonfuls of brandy.
This forcemeat is used for ordinary pies and _terrines_. Strictly
speaking, it is “sausage-meat.” The inclusion of eggs in this forcemeat
really only obtains when it is used to stuff joints that are to be
braised, such as stuffed breast of veal; or in the case of pies and
terrines. The addition of the egg in these cases prevents the grease
from melting too quickly, and thus averts the drying of the forcemeat.
197—FORCEMEAT FOR GALANTINES, PIES AND TERRINES
Remove the tendons from, and cut into cubes, one lb. of fillet of
veal and as much fillet of pork; add to these two lbs. of fresh, fat
bacon, also cut into cubes. Season with three oz. of spiced salt, chop
the three ingredients together or apart, and then finely pound them.
Finish with three eggs and three tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy, strain
through a sieve, and place in a basin.
When about to serve this stuffing, add to it a little _fumet_
corresponding with the meat that is to constitute the dish. For
_terrines_, pies, and galantines of game, one-quarter or one-fifth of
the forcemeat’s weight of gratin stuffing (proper to the game under
treatment) is added.
198—VEAL FORCEMEAT WITH FAT OR GODIVEAU
Remove the tendons from, and cut into cubes, one lb. of fillet of
veal; also pare, _i.e._, detach skin and filaments from, two lbs. of
the very dry fat of kidneys of beef. First, chop these up separately,
then combine and pound them in the mortar. Season with one-half oz. of
salt, a little pepper, some nutmeg, and pound afresh until the veal and
fat become a homogeneous mass. Now add four eggs, consecutively, and at
intervals of a few minutes, without ceasing to pound, and taking care
only to insert each egg after the preceding one has been properly mixed
with the mass. Spread the forcemeat thus prepared on a dish, and put
the latter on ice until the next day.
The next day pound once more, and add little by little fourteen oz. of
very clean ice (in small pieces); or, instead, an equal weight of iced
water, adding this also very gradually.
When the godiveau is properly moistened, poach a small portion of it in
boiling water in order to test its consistence. If it be too firm, add
some more ice to it; if, on the other hand, it seem too flimsy, add a
little of the white of an egg. For the uses of godiveau and quenelles
see No. 205.
199—VEAL FORCEMEAT WITH FAT AND CREAM
Chop finely and apart one lb. of very white fillet of veal, with
tendons removed, cut into cubes, and one lb. of the fat of pared kidney
of beef.
Combine the veal and the fat in the mortar, and pound until the two
ingredients form a fine and even paste. Season with one-half oz. of
salt, a little pepper, and some nutmeg, and add consecutively two eggs
and two yolks, after the manner of the preceding recipe and without
ceasing to pound. Strain through a sieve, spread the forcemeat on a
dish, and keep it on ice until the next day.
Next day pound the forcemeat again for a few minutes, and add to it,
little by little, one and one-half pints of cream.
Test as before, and rectify if necessary, either by adding cream or by
thickening with the white of an egg.
200—CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR GALANTINES, PIES AND TERRINES
The exact weight of chicken-meat used as the base of this forcemeat
determines the quantities of its other ingredients. Thus the weight of
meat afforded by a fowl weighing four lbs. is estimated at twenty oz.
after deducting the fillets which are always reserved. Hence the
quantities for the forcemeat are regulated thus:—
Chicken-meat, twenty oz.; lean pork, eight oz.; fillet of veal,
eight oz.; fresh, fat bacon, thirty oz.; whole eggs, five; spiced salt,
two oz.; brandy, one-fifth pint.
Chop up, either together or apart, the chicken-meat, the veal, the
pork, and the bacon. Put all these into the mortar, pound them very
finely with the seasoning, add the eggs consecutively, and, last of
all, pour in the brandy.
=Remarks=
1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way,
according as to whether the atmosphere be dry or damp.
2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to
giving it a finer flavour, one may, subject to the resources at one’s
disposal, add a little raw trimmings of _foie gras_ to it; but the
latter must not, in any case, exceed one-fifth of the forcemeat in
weight.
3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as
to ensure its being fine and even.
4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always
be completed with two or three oz. of chopped truffles per lb. of its
volume.
201—GAME FORCEMEAT FOR PIES AND TERRINES
This follows the same principles as the chicken forcemeat, _i.e._,
the weight of the game-meat determines the quantities of the other
ingredients. The proportions are precisely the same as above as regards
the veal, the pork, the bacon, and the seasoning. The procedure is also
the same, while the appended remarks likewise apply.
202—GRATIN FORCEMEAT FOR ORDINARY HOT, RAISED PIES
Put into a sautépan containing one oz. of very hot butter, one-half lb.
of fresh, fat bacon, cut into large cubes, brown quickly, and drain on
a dish.
Quickly brown in the same butter one-half lb. of fillet of veal cut
like the bacon and drain in the same way.
Now rapidly brown one-half lb. of pale, calf’s liver, also cut into
large cubes. Put the veal and the bacon back into the sautépan with
the liver, add the necessary quantity of salt and pepper, two oz. of
mushroom parings, one oz. of truffle parings (raw if possible), chopped
shallots, a sprig of thyme, and a fragment of bay. Put the whole on the
fire for two minutes, drain the bacon, the veal, and the liver, and put
the gravy aside. Swill the sautépan with one-quarter pint of Madeira.
Pound the bacon, veal, and liver quickly and finely, while adding
consecutively six oz. of butter, the yolks of six eggs, the gravy that
has been put aside, one-third pint of cold, reduced Espagnole, and the
Madeira used for swilling.
Strain through a sieve, place in a tureen, and smooth with the wooden
spoon.
N.B.—To make a gratin forcemeat with game, substitute for the veal that
game-meat which may happen to be required.
203—PIKE FORCEMEAT FOR QUENELLES A LA LYONNAISE
Forcemeats prepared with the flesh of the pike are extremely delicate.
Subject to circumstances, they may be prepared according to any one
of the three formulæ (Nos. 193, 194, 195). There is another excellent
method of preparing this forcemeat which I shall submit here, as it is
specially used for the preparation of pike forcemeat à la Lyonnaise.
Pound in a mortar one lb. of the meat of a pike, without the skin or
bones; combine with this one-half lb. of stiff frangipan, season with
salt and nutmeg, pass through a sieve, and put back into the mortar.
Vigorously work the forcemeat in order to make it cohere, and gradually
add to it one-half lb. of melted beef-fat. The whole half-pound,
however, need not necessarily be beef-fat; beef-marrow or butter may
form part of it in the proportion of half the weight of the beef-fat.
When the forcemeat is very fine and smooth, withdraw it from the mortar
and place it in a bowl surrounded with ice until wanted.
204—SPECIAL STUFFINGS FOR FISH
These preparations diverge slightly from the forcemeats given above,
and they are of two kinds. They are used to stuff such fish as
mackerel, herring, shad, &c., to which they lend a condimentary touch
that makes these fish more agreeable to the taste, and certainly more
digestible.
_First Method._—Put into a bowl four oz. of raw, chopped milt,
two oz. of bread-crumb, steeped in milk and well pressed, and one and
one-half oz. of the following fine herbs, mixed in equal quantities and
finely chopped:—Chives, parsley, chervil, shallots, sweet basil, half a
garlic clove (crushed), then two whole eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Chop up all these ingredients together so as to mix them thoroughly.
_Second Method._—Put into a bowl four oz. of bread-crumb steeped in
milk and well pressed; one-half oz. of onion and one-half oz. of
chopped shallots, slightly cooked in butter, and cold; one oz. of raw
mushrooms, chopped and well pressed in a towel; a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley; a piece of garlic the size of a pea, crushed; salt,
pepper, and nutmeg, and two eggs.
Mix it as above.
205—FORCEMEAT BALLS OR QUENELLES
_Divers ways of Moulding and Poaching them._—Whatever be the required
size or shape of quenelles there are four ways of making them:—(1) By
rolling them; (2) by moulding them with a spoon; (3) by forming them
with a piping-bag; (4) by moulding them by hand into the shape of a
kidney.
1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat
stiff, and therefore this process could not well apply to the
_mousseline_ forcemeats. Place one-quarter lb. of forcemeat, when
ready, on a floured board, and, with hands covered in flour, roll the
preparation until it has lengthened itself into the form of a sausage,
the thickness of which depends upon the required size of the intended
quenelles.
Cut up the sausage of forcemeat laterally with a floured knife, and
roll each section with the finger-ends until the length it assumes is
thrice that of its diameter. The balls should be put aside on a floured
tray as soon as they are made.
_The Poaching of Rolled Quenelles._—When all the forcemeat has been
used up, the balls are gently tilted into a saucepan containing
boiling, salted water, so calculated in quantity as to allow of their
not being too tightly squeezed. The saucepan is covered and kept on
the side of the fire until all the balls have risen to the surface and
are almost out of the water. They are then removed with a skimmer and
placed in a bowl of cold water.
At last, when they have properly cooled, they are carefully drained on
a cloth and put aside on a dish until required.
When the quenelles are needed for immediate use it would be better not
to cool them.
2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all
forcemeats, and allows of the balls being much softer, as the forcemeat
need not be so stiff. First, butter the sautépan or the tray, whereon
the balls are to be laid, by means of a brush, and let the butter cool.
Put the sautépan on the table in front and a little to the right of
one; on the left, place the sautépan or bowl containing the forcemeat,
and on the further side of the buttered sautépan there should be a
receptacle containing hot water, into which the spoon used for moulding
is inserted. For ordinary quenelles two coffee-spoons are used, one of
which is kept in the hot water as stated above. Now, with the other
held in the left hand, take up a little of the forcemeat (just enough
to fill the spoon); withdraw the second spoon from the hot water and
place it, with its convex side uppermost, on the other spoon.
This smoothens the upper surface of the forcemeat. Now, with the
help of the second spoon, remove the whole of the contents of the
first spoon, and overturn the second spoon on the spot in the tray or
sautépan which the ball is intended to occupy. The second spoon, being
at once moist and hot, allows the forcemeat to leave it quite easily in
the shape of a large olive. Renew this operation until the whole of the
forcemeat has been used.
_The Poaching of Spoon-moulded Quenelles._—When all the balls have
been moulded, place the tray on the side of the stove and pour enough
boiling, salted water over them to moisten them abundantly. Leave them
to poach, and from time to time move the tray; then, when they have
swollen sufficiently and seem soft and firm to the touch, drain them.
If they are to be used at once they should be placed directly in the
sauce. If they have been prepared in advance, it would be well to cool
them as directed under rolled quenelles.
3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially
recommended for small, fine, and light forcemeat balls intended for
soup garnish. For, besides being extremely quick, it allows of making
them in any desirable size or shape.
Butter a tray or a sautépan, and leave to cool. Put the forcemeat into
a bag fitted with a pipe at its narrowest end. The pipe may be grooved
or smooth, and its size must be in accordance with that intended for
the proposed balls. Now squeeze out the latter, proceeding in the usual
way and laying them very closely.
_The Poaching of Quenelles made by the above Process, with ordinary or
Mousseline Forcemeat._—These quenelles are poached in exactly the same
way as the spoon-moulded ones.
_The Poaching of Godiveau Quenelles made with a Piping-bag._—These
quenelles or balls are laid on a piece of fine, buttered paper, which
in its turn is placed upon a buttered tray. The godiveau must not be
too stiff, and the balls are laid by means of the piping-bag side by
side and slightly touching one another. When the tray is covered push
it into a very moderate oven for a few minutes. The balls are poached
when a thin dew of grease may be seen to glisten on their surfaces. On
the appearance of this dew withdraw them from the oven and overturn the
tray, carefully, upon a marble slab, taking care that the tray does not
press at all upon the balls, lest it crush them. When the latter are
nearly cold the paper which covers them is taken off with caution, and
all that remains to be done is to put them carefully away on a dish
until they are wanted.
4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is
as expedient as that of the bag, and it produces beautifully shaped
balls. Place on the edge of a table, in front of one, a saucepan
three-quarters full of boiling, salted water, the handle of the
receptacle being turned to the far side. Now take a piece of string one
yard in length, double it over, and tie the free ends to a weight of
two lbs., letting the two strands twist round each other.
This done, there should be a loop at the top of the string. Put
this loop round the handle of the saucepan, and draw the string
diametrically across the latter, letting the weight pull the string
tightly down on the side opposite to the handle. When this has been
effected the operator, with his left hand, takes some of the forcemeat,
smoothening it with a spoon, and, placing the spoon near the string
with his right, first finger, he removes from its extremity a portion
of the preparation about equal to the intended size of the balls. This
portion of the forcemeat remaining suspended on his first finger, the
operator now scrapes the latter across the string, and the ball falls
beneath into the saucepan containing the water. When all the stuffing
has been moulded in this way the saucepan is placed on the fire to
complete the poaching of the balls, and the precautions indicated in
the preceding processes are observed.
CHAPTER VIII
=The Various Garnishes for Soups=
ROYALES.
206—ORDINARY ROYALE
Put one oz. of chervil into one pint of boiling consommé, cover the
saucepan, and let infusion proceed away from the fire for twenty
minutes. Now pour this infusion over two eggs and six yolks, beaten
briskly in a basin, and mix with the whisk. Strain through muslin,
and carefully remove therefrom the froth that has formed. Pour into
buttered moulds; poach in a _bain-marie_, as in the case of cream, and
take great care that the water in the _bain-marie_ does not boil.
According to the way in which the royale is to be divided, it may be
poached either in large or small “Charlotte” moulds; but the latter,
large and small alike, must be well buttered.
If the preparation be put into large moulds, thirty-five or forty
minutes should be allowed for poaching; if, on the other hand, the
moulds are small, about fifteen minutes would suffice.
Always let the royale cool in the moulds.
207—DESLIGNAC OR CREAM ROYALE
Boil one pint of thin cream, and pour it, little by little, over one
egg and six yolks, well whisked in a basin. Season with a little salt
and nutmeg, strain through muslin, and, for the poaching, follow the
directions given above.
208—CHICKEN ROYALE
Finely pound three oz. of cooked white chicken-meat, and add thereto
three tablespoonfuls of cold Béchamel. Put this paste in a bowl, season
with a little salt and a dash of nutmeg, dilute with one-fifth pint of
cream, and strain through tammy.
Thicken this preparation with one egg and the yolks of three, and poach
in small or large moulds, in accordance with the procedure already
described.
209—GAME ROYALE
Finely pound three oz. of the cooked meat of that game which gives its
name to the preparation, and add three tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole
Sauce and one-fifth pint of rich cream, in small quantities at a time.
Warm the seasoning with a very little cayenne, strain through tammy,
thicken with one egg and three yolks, and poach as before.
210—FISH ROYALE
Stew in butter four oz. of fillet of sole cut into cubes, or the same
quantity of any other fish suited to the nature of the intended soup.
Cool, pound finely, and add, little by little, two tablespoonfuls of
cold Béchamel and one-quarter pint of cream. Season with salt and a
pinch of nutmeg, and strain through tammy. Thicken by means of the
yolks of five eggs, and poach in large or small moulds.
211—CARROT OR CRÉCY ROYALE
Stew gently in butter five oz. of the red part only of carrots. Cool,
crush in a mortar, and gradually add two tablespoonfuls of Béchamel
and one-fifth pint of rich cream. Season with table-salt and a pinch
of castor sugar, and deepen the tint of the royale with a few drops
of vegetable red. Strain through tammy, thicken with one egg and four
yolks, put into moulds, and poach.
212—FRESH PEAS OR ST. GERMAIN ROYALE
Cook one-half lb. of fresh, small peas in boiling water with a bunch
of chervil and a few leaves of fresh mint. Pass through a sieve, and
dilute the resulting purée (in a saucepan) with two-fifths of its
volume of the liquor it has been cooked in and one-fifth of cream.
Add a little sugar, the necessary salt, one egg, and two yolks. Pass
through a fine strainer, and poach in well-buttered moulds.
213—VARIOUS ROYALES
Royales may also be made with leeks, celery, &c., the procedure being
as follows:—
Finely mince six or seven oz. of the chosen vegetable; stew the same
gently and thoroughly in butter, and strain through tammy. Add to the
resulting purée three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, one-fifth pint of
cream, two eggs, and four yolks. Put into large or small moulds, and
poach.
_Remarks._—In order that these royales may have the required delicacy,
I should urge the reader not to exceed the prescribed quantities of
eggs and yolks, these being so calculated as to exactly produce the
density required.
214—THE DIVIDING-UP OF ROYALES
When the poaching is done take the mould or moulds out of water, and
leave the royale to cool in them. Do not turn out the moulds whilst the
preparation is hot, as it would surely scatter. It only assumes the
necessary solidity for being divided up by means of the aggregation and
contraction of its various constituents during the cooling process.
_If the royale has been poached in small moulds_, slightly trim the
cylinders of _royale_, divide them up laterally into discs, and stamp
them uniformly with a plain or indented fancy cutter.
_If the royale has been poached in large moulds_, withdraw it from
these, and place it on a serviette; trim the tops, cut into half-inch
slices, and stamp with small, fancy cutters of different shapes. These
little divisions of _royale_ must always be stamped very neatly and
quite regularly.
215—CHIFFONADE
The name “_Chiffonade_” is given to a mince of sorrel or lettuce,
intended as a complement for such soups as “Potage de santé,” “le
Germiny,” &c., or various clear consommés like “Julienne.”
To prepare _Chiffonade_, first carefully shred the sorrel or lettuce,
and remove therefrom all the leaf-ribs. Carefully wash the leaves, and
squeeze the latter tightly between the fingers of the left hand and the
table. Now cut them into fine strips with a sharp knife.
If the chiffonade be intended for a consommé, add it to the latter
half an hour before dishing up; it is thus actually cooked in the soup
itself. If, as is most often the case, it be intended for a thick soup,
it is better to let it melt well in butter, to moisten it with a little
consommé, and to let it boil for ten minutes before adding it to the
soup.
Whatever the purpose be for which it is made, _chiffonade_ should
always be prepared with very tender sorrel or lettuce.
216—DIRECTIONS FOR SOUP WITH PASTES
Vermicelli and the various Italian pastes should measure about
three oz. per quart of consommé. They should first be thrown into
boiling, salted water, where they are left to poach for three minutes,
whereupon they are drained, cooled, and their cooking is completed in
the consommé.
The parboiling of these pastes is necessary in order to get rid of the
little agglomerations of flour which adhere to them, and which would
otherwise make the consommé cloudy.
Tapioca, sago, salep, &c., should also be apportioned at about
three oz. per quart. But this is only an average, for the quality of
this kind of products varies greatly, and it is best to choose the
goods of an excellent maker, and, in order to avoid surprises, to abide
by that choice.
These products need no parboiling; they are merely sprinkled into the
boiling consommé while stirring the latter, and they are left to cook
until the soup is quite clear. The boiling should be gentle, and the
scum should be removed as often as it forms.
The time allowed for cooking naturally varies in accordance with the
quality of the goods, but the absolute transparency of the consommé is
an infallible sign of its having been completed.
Brazilian, Japanese, and other pearls are used in the same quantities,
but they should poach for thirty minutes if required to be very
transparent.
217—THREADED EGGS
Beat up three eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and strain
through a sieve. Now pour the eggs into a fine strainer, hold same over
a sautépan containing some boiling consommé, and shift it about in such
wise as to let the egg fall in threads into the boiling liquid beneath,
and thus immediately coagulate. Drain the egg-threads very carefully
lest they break.
218—PROFITEROLLES FOR SOUPS
These consist of little choux about the size of a large hazel-nut,
stuffed with some kinds of purée, such as that of _foie gras_ with
cream, or of chicken, or of vegetables, &c. Four _profiterolles_ should
be allowed for each person.
To make _profiterolles_, put a few tablespoonfuls of “_pâte à choux_”
without sugar (No. 2374) into a piping-bag fitted with a smooth pipe,
whose orifice should be about one-quarter inch in diameter. Squeeze out
portions of the preparation on to a tray, so as to form balls about the
size of a small hazel-nut; _gild_ by means of beaten egg applied with a
fine brush, and cook in a moderate oven.
Do not take the _profiterolles_ from the oven until they are quite dry.
CHAPTER IX
=Garnishing Preparations for Relevés and Entrées=
219—POTATO CROQUETTES
Cook quickly in salted water two lb. of peeled and quartered potatoes.
As soon as they seem soft to the finger, drain them, place them in the
front of the oven for a few minutes in order to dry them, and then tilt
them into a sieve lying on a cloth, and press them through the former
without rubbing.
Place the purée in a sautépan; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg;
add one oz. of butter, and dry; _i.e._, stir over a brisk fire until
the purée becomes a consistent paste.
Take off the fire, complete with the yolks of three eggs, well mixed
with the rest, and turn the paste out on to a buttered dish, taking
care to spread it in a rather thin layer, so as to precipitate its
cooling. Butter the surface to prevent the preparation’s drying.
To make croquettes, equal portions of this paste, _i.e._, portions
weighing about one and one-half oz. of it, are rolled on a flour-dusted
board into the shape of a cork, a ball, or a quoit. These are now
dipped into an _Anglaise_ (No. 174) and rolled in bread-crumbs or
raspings, the latter being well patted on to the surface of the
_croquettes_, lest they should fall into the frying fat. Let the
patting also avail for finishing off the selected shape of the objects.
These are then plunged into hot fat, where they should remain until
they have acquired a fine, golden colour.
220—DAUPHINE POTATOES
Prepare as above the required quantity of paste, and add thereto
per lb. six oz. of pâte à choux without sugar (No. 2374).
Mix the two constituents thoroughly.
Dauphine potatoes are moulded in the shape of small cylinders, and they
are treated _à l’Anglaise_, like the _croquettes_.
221—DUCHESSE POTATOES
These are the same as the _croquettes_, though they are differently
treated. They are made on a floured board in the shape of diminutive
cottage-loaves, little shuttle-shaped loaves, small quoits, and
lozenges or rectangles. They are _gilded_ with beaten egg, and when
their shape is that of quoits, rectangles, or lozenges, they are
streaked by means of a small knife.
After this operation, which is to prevent the _gilding_ from
blistering, they are baked in the oven for a few minutes previous to
being used in dressing the dishes they accompany.
222—MARQUISE POTATOES
Take one lb. of _croquette_ paste and add thereto six oz. of very
red, reduced tomato-purée. Pour this mixture into a bag fitted with a
large, grooved pipe, and squeeze it out upon a baking-tray in shapes
resembling large meringues.
Slightly _gild_ their surfaces with beaten egg, and put them into the
oven for a few minutes before using them to dress the dish.
223—ORDINARY OR DRY DUXELLE
The uses of Duxelle are legion, and it is prepared thus:—Slightly
fry one teaspoonful of onions in one tablespoonful of butter and oil
mixed. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of mushroom stalks and parings,
chopped and well pressed in a towel with the view of expelling their
vegetable moisture. Stir over a brisk fire until the latter has
completely evaporated; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and one
coffeespoonful of well-chopped parsley, mixing the whole thoroughly.
Transfer to a bowl, cover with a piece of white, buttered paper, and
put aside until wanted.
224—DUXELLE FOR STUFFED VEGETABLES (Tomatoes, Mushrooms, &c.)
Put six tablespoonfuls of dry duxelle into a small stewpan, and add
thereto three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce containing plenty of
tomato, crushed garlic the size of a pea, and two tablespoonfuls of
white wine. Set to simmer until the required degree of consistence is
reached.
N.B.—A tablespoonful of fine, fresh bread-crumbs may be added to the
duxelle in order to thicken it.
225—DUXELLE FOR GARNISHING SMALL PIES, ONIONS, CUCUMBERS, ETC.
To four tablespoonfuls of dry duxelle add four tablespoonfuls of
ordinary pork forcemeat (No. 196).
226—MAINTENON (preparation used in stuffing preparations à la Maintenon)
Put one pint of Béchamel into a vegetable-pan with one-half pint of
Soubise (No. 104), and reduce to half while stirring over a brisk
fire. Thicken, away from the fire, by means of the yolks of five eggs,
and add four tablespoonfuls of minced mushrooms, either cooked in the
ordinary way or stewed in butter.
227—MATIGNON
This preparation serves chiefly for covering certain large joints of
butcher’s meat, or fowl, to which it imparts an appropriate flavour.
It is made as follows:—Finely mince two medium carrots (the red part
only), two onions, and two sticks of celery taken from the heart. Add
one tablespoonful of raw lean ham, cut _paysanne-fashion_, a sprig of
thyme, and half a leaf of bay, crushed.
Stew in butter, and finally swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls
of Madeira.
228—MIREPOIX
The purpose of Mirepoix in culinary preparations is the same as that of
Matignon, but its mode of use is different.
Its constituents are the same as those of the Matignon, but instead of
being minced they are cut up into more or less fine dice, in accordance
with the use for which the preparation is intended.
Instead of the ham, fresh and slightly-salted breast of pork may be
used, while both the ham and the bacon may be excluded under certain
circumstances.
229—FINE OR BORDELAISE MIREPOIX
Coarse Mirepoix, which are added to certain preparations in order to
lend these the proper flavour, are generally made immediately before
being used, but this is not so in the case of the finer Mirepoix, which
chiefly serves as an adjunct to crayfish and lobsters. This is made in
advance, and as follows:—
Cut into dice four oz. of the red part only of carrots, the same
quantity of onion, and one oz. of parsley stalks. In order that the
Mirepoix may be still finer, these ingredients may now be chopped, but
in this case it is advisable to thoroughly press them in a corner of a
towel, so as to squeeze out their vegetable moisture, the mere process
of stewing not being sufficient for this purpose.
Should this water be allowed to remain in the Mirepoix, more
particularly if the latter must be kept some time, it would probably
give rise to mustiness or fermentation.
Put the ingredients into a small stewpan with one and one-half oz. of
butter and a little powdered thyme and bay, and stew until all are well
cooked. This done, turn the preparation out into a small bowl, heap
it together with the back of a fork, cover it with a piece of white,
buttered paper, and put aside until wanted.
230—VARIOUS SALPICONS
This term stands for a certain preparatory method applied to a series
of preparations.
Salpicons are _simple_ or _compound_. Simple if they only contain one
product, such as the meat of a fowl, or of game, butcher’s meat, foie
gras, various fish, ham or tongue, mushrooms, truffles, &c. Compound if
they consist of two or more of the above-mentioned ingredients which
may happen to combine suitably.
_The preparatory method_ consists in cutting the various ingredients
into dice.
_The series of preparations_ arises from the many possible combinations
of the products, each particular combination bearing its own name.
Thus Salpicons may be Royal, Financier, Chasseur, Parisien,
Montglas, &c.; of whichever kind, however, Salpicons are always
incorporated with a vehicular sauce which is in accordance with their
constituents.
231—BATTER FOR VARIOUS FRITTERS
Put into a bowl one lb. of sifted flour, one-quarter oz. of salt, one
tablespoonful of oil or melted butter, and the necessary quantity of
barely lukewarm water. If the batter is to be used at once mix the
ingredients by turning them over and over without stirring with the
spoon, for this would give the preparation an elasticity which would
prevent its adhering to immersed solids. Should the batter be prepared
beforehand, however, it may be stirred, since it loses its elasticity
when left to stand any length of time.
Before using it add the whites of two eggs whisked to a froth.
232—BATTER FOR VEGETABLES (Salsify, Celery, &c.)
Put one lb. of sifted flour into a bowl with one-quarter oz. of salt
and two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter. Dilute with one egg and
the necessary quantity of cold water. Keep this batter somewhat thin,
do not stir it, and let it rest for a few hours before using.
233—BATTER FOR FRUIT AND FLOWER FRITTERS
Put one lb. of flour into a bowl with one-quarter oz. of salt and
two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter. Dilute gradually with
one-quarter pint of beer and a little tepid water.
When about to use the batter mix therewith the whites of two eggs
whisked to a froth.
N.B.—Keep this batter thin, if anything, and above all do not stir
overmuch.
234—BATTER FOR OVEN-GLAZED FRUIT FRITTERS
Mix one lb. of flour with two tablespoonfuls of oil, a grain of salt,
two eggs (added one after the other), the necessary quantity of water,
and one oz. of sugar. Keep this preparation in a lukewarm place to let
it ferment, and stir it with a wooden spoon before using it to immerse
the solids.
_Remarks._—Batter for fruit fritters may contain a few tablespoonfuls
of brandy, in which case an equal quantity of the water must be
suppressed.
235—PROVENÇALE (preparation for stuffing cutlets à la Provençale)
Put one pint of Béchamel into a vegetable-pan and reduce it until it
has become quite dense. Thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and
finish it away from the fire with a crushed piece of garlic as large as
a pea, and one-quarter lb. of grated cheese.
CHAPTER X
=Leading Culinary Operations=
236—THE PREPARATION OF SOUPS
The nutritious liquids known under the name of Soups are of
comparatively recent origin. Indeed, as they are now served, they
do not date any further back than the early years of the nineteenth
century.
The soups of old cookery were, really, complete dishes, wherein the
meats and vegetables used in their preparation were assembled. They,
moreover, suffered from the effects of the general confusion which
reigned in the menus of those days. These menus seem to have depended
in no wise, for their items, upon the progressive satisfaction of the
consumers’ appetites, and a long procession of dishes was far more
characteristic of the meal than their judicious order and diversity.
In this respect, as in so many others, Carême was the reformer, and,
if he were not, strictly speaking, the actual initiator of the changes
which ushered in our present methods, he certainly had a large share in
the establishment of the new theories.
Nevertheless, it took his followers almost a century to bring soups to
the perfection of to-day, for modern cookery has replaced those stodgy
dishes of yore by comparatively simple and savoury preparations which
are veritable wonders of delicacy and taste. Now, my attention has been
called to the desirability of drawing up some sort of classification
of soups, if only with the view of obviating the absurdity of placing
such preparations as are indiscriminately called Bisque, Purée, Cullis,
or Cream under the same head. Logically, each preparation should have
its own special formula, and it is impossible to admit that one and the
same can apply to all.
It is generally admitted that the terms _Veloutés_ and _Creams_, whose
introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent,
are peculiarly well suited to supplant those of _Bisque_ and _Cullis_,
which are steadily becoming obsolete, as well as that too vulgar
term _Purée_. Considerations of this kind naturally led me to a new
classification of soups, and this I shall disclose later.
I shall not make any lengthy attempt here to refute the arguments of
certain autocrats of the dinner-table who, not so many years ago, urged
the total abolition of soups. I shall only submit to their notice
the following quotation from Grimod de la Reynière, one of our most
illustrious gastronomists: “Soup is to a dinner what the porch or
gateway is to a building,” that is to say, it must not only form the
first portion thereof, but it must be so devised as to convey some idea
of the whole to which it belongs; or, after the manner of an overture
in a light opera, it should divulge what is to be the dominant phrase
of the melody throughout.
I am at one with Grimod in this, and believe that soups have come to
stay. Of all the items on a menu, soup is that which exacts the most
delicate perfection and the strictest attention, for upon the first
impression it gives to the diner the success of the latter part of the
meal largely depends.
Soups should be served as hot as possible in very warm plates,
especially in the case of consommés when these have been preceded by
cold hors-d’œuvres.
Hors-d’œuvres are pointless in a dinner, and even when oysters stand as
such they should only be allowed at meals which include no soup.
Those hors-d’œuvres which consist of various fish, smoked or in oil,
and strongly seasoned salads, leave a disagreeable taste on the
consumer’s palate and make the soup which follows seem flat and insipid
if the latter be not served boiling hot.
=Classification of Soups=
This includes (1) clear soups, (2) thick soups, (3) special soups of
various kinds, (4) classical vegetable soups, including some local
preparations.
237—CLEAR SOUPS
Clear soups, of whatever nature the base thereof may be, whether
butcher’s meat, poultry, game, fish, shell-fish, or turtle, &c., are
made according to one method only. They are always clear consommés to
which has been added a slight garnish in keeping with the nature of the
consommé.
238—THICK SOUPS
These are divided into three leading classes as follows:—(1) The
Purées, Cullises, or Bisques. (2) Various Veloutés. (3) Various Creams.
_Remarks._—Though the three preparations of the first class are
practically the same, and, generally speaking, the Cullises and the
Bisques may be considered as purées of fowl, game, or shell-fish, it is
advisable to distinguish one from another by giving each a special name
of its own.
Thus the word _Purée_ is most suitably applied to any preparation with
a vegetable base. The term _Cullis_ is best fitted to preparations
having either poultry, game, or fish for base, while bisque, in spite
of the fact that in former days it was applied indiscriminately to
purées of shell-fish, poultry, pigeons, &c., distinctly denotes a purée
of shell-fish (either lobster, crayfish, or shrimp, &c.).
In short, it is imperative to avoid all ambiguities and to give
everything its proper name, or, at least, that name which identifies it
most correctly.
239—PURÉES
Farinaceous vegetables, such as haricot-beans and lentils, and the
floury ones, such as the potato, need no additional thickening
ingredient, since the flour or fecula which they contain amply suffices
for the leason of their purées.
On the other hand, aqueous vegetables like carrots, pumpkins, turnips,
celery, and herbs cannot dispense with a thickening ingredient, as
their purées of themselves do not cohere in the least.
_Cohering or Thickening Elements; their Quantities._—In order to effect
the coherence of vegetable purées, either rice, potato, or bread-crumb
cut into dice and fried in butter may be used.
The proportion of these per pound of vegetables should be respectively
three oz., ten oz., and ten oz. Bread-crumb dice, prepared as described
above, were greatly used in old cookery, and they lend a mellowness to
a purée which is quite peculiar to them.
_The Dilution of Purées._—Generally this is done by means of ordinary
white consommé, though in certain cases, as, for instance, if the soup
is a Lenten one, milk is used.
_The Finishing._—When the purées have been strained and brought to the
required consistence they should be boiled and stirred. Then they are
placed on the side of the fire to simmer for twenty-five or thirty
minutes. It is at this stage that they are purified by means of the
careful removal of all the scum that forms on their surface.
When dishing up complete them, away from the fire, with three oz. of
butter per quart of soup, and pass them once more through a strainer.
_Purée Garnishes._—These are usually either small fried crusts, small
dice of potato fried in butter, a _chiffonade_, some kind of little
_brunoise_, or, more generally, chervil _pluches_.
240—CULLISES
Cullises have for their base either poultry, game, or fish.
_The thickening ingredients used are_:—
_For fowl_, two or three oz. of rice, or three-quarters pint of poultry
velouté per lb. of fowl.
_For game_, three or four oz. of lentils, or three-quarters pint of
game Espagnole per lb. of game.
_For fish_, a clear panada made up of French bread soaked in boiling
salted milk. Use five oz. of bread and one good pint of milk per lb.
of fish. Having strained and made up the Cullises, boil them while
stirring (except in the case of fish cullises, which must not boil,
and must be served as soon as they are made), then place them in a
_bain-marie_ and butter their surfaces lest a skin should form.
At the last moment complete them with two or three oz. of butter per
quart.
The garnish of poultry or game cullises consists of either small dice
of game or fowl-fillets, which should be kept aside for the purpose;
a fine _julienne_ of these fillets, or small quenelles made from the
latter, raw.
The garnish of fish cullis is generally fish-fillets poached in butter
and cut up into small dice or in _julienne-fashion_.
241—BISQUES
The invariable base of Bisques is shell-fish cooked in _mirepoix_.
Their thickening ingredients are, or may be, rice, fish velouté, or
crusts of bread fried in butter, the proportion being three oz. of
rice, ten oz. of bread-crusts, or three-quarters pint of fish velouté
per lb. of shell-fish cooked in _mirepoix_ (No. 228).
When the soup is strained, treat it in precisely the same way as the
cullises.
The garnish consists of small dice of the meat from the shell-fish
used. These pieces should have been put aside from the first.
242—THE VELOUTÉS
These differ from the purées, cullises, and bisques in that their
invariable thickening element is a velouté whose preparation is in
harmony with the nature of the ingredients of the soup, these being
either vegetables, poultry, game, fish, or shell-fish.
_The Preparation of the Velouté._—Allow three and one-half oz. of white
roux per quart of the diluent. This diluent should be ordinary consommé
for a velouté of vegetables or herbs, chicken consommé for a poultry
velouté, or very clear fish _fumet_ for a fish or shell-fish velouté.
The procedure is exactly the same as that described under No. 25 of the
leading sauces.
_The Apportionment of the Ingredients._—In general, the quantities of
each constituent are in the following proportion:—Velouté, one-half;
the purée of the substance which characterises the soup, one-quarter;
the consommé used to bring the soup to its proper consistence,
one-quarter. In respect of finishing ingredients, use, for thickening,
the yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream per quart of soup.
Thus for four quarts of poultry velouté we arrive at the following
quantities:—
Poultry velouté, three pints; purée of fowl obtained from a cleaned and
drawn hen weighing about three lbs., one quart; consommé for regulating
consistence, one quart; leason, twelve yolks and four-fifths pint of
cream.
_Rules Relative to the Preparation._—If the velouté is to be of
lettuce, chicory, celery, or mixed herbs, these ingredients are scalded
for five minutes, drained, gently stewed in butter, and added to the
prepared velouté in which their cooking is completed.
If carrots, turnips, onions, &c., are to be treated, finely mince them,
stew them in butter without allowing them to acquire any colour, and
add them to the velouté.
If fowl be the base, cook it in the velouté. This done, withdraw it,
remove the meat, finely pound same, and add it to the velouté, which is
then rubbed through tammy.
In the case of fish the procedure is the same as for fowl. For game,
roast or _sauté_ the selected piece, bone it, finely pound the meat,
and combine the latter with the velouté, which should then be rubbed
through tammy.
For shell-fish, cook these in a _mirepoix_, finely pound them together
with the latter, add to the velouté, and pass the whole through tammy.
_The Completing of Velouté._—Having passed the soup through tammy,
bring it to its proper degree of consistence with the necessary
quantity of consommé, boil while stirring, and place in a _bain-marie_.
At the last moment finish the soup with the leason and two oz. of
butter per quart of liquid.
_Garnish for Velouté._—In the case of vegetables: _Chiffonade_, fine
_printaniers_, or _brunoise_.
For fowl and game: The fillets of one or the other, poached and cut
into small dice or in _julienne-fashion_; little quenelles made with
the raw fillets, or either fowl or game royales.
For fish: Small dice or fine _julienne_ of fish fillets poached in
butter.
For shell-fish: Small dice of cooked shell-fish meat put aside for the
purpose.
_Remarks._—In certain circumstances these garnishes are increased by
means of three tablespoonfuls of poached rice per quart of the soup.
243—THE CREAMS
Practically speaking, the preparation of the creams is the same as that
of the veloutés, but for the following exceptions:—
1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup,
velouté is substituted for clear Béchamel.
2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk
instead of consommé.
3. Creams do not require egg-yolk leasons.
4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or
two-fifths pint of fresh cream per quart.
Creams allow of the same garnishes as the veloutés.
244—SPECIAL SOUPS AND THICKENED CONSOMMÉS
These are of different kinds, though their preparation remains the
same, and they do not lend themselves to the requirements of veloutés
or creams. I should quote as types of this class the Ambassador, à
l’Américaine, Darblay, Faubonne, &c.
The same holds good with thickened consommés, such as “Germiny,”
“Coquelin,” &c.
245—VEGETABLE SOUPS
These soups, of which the “Paysanne” is the radical type, do not
demand very great precision in the apportionment of the vegetables
of which they are composed; but they need great care and attention,
notwithstanding.
The vegetables, in the majority of cases, must undergo a long stewing
in butter, an operation the object of which is to expel their vegetable
moisture and to saturate them with butter.
In respect of others which have a local character, the vegetables
should be cooked with the diluent, without a preparatory stewing.
246—FOREIGN SOUPS
In the course of Part II. of this work I shall allude to certain soups
which have a foreign origin, and whose use, although it may not be
general, is yet sufficiently common. If only for the sake of novelty
or variety, it is occasionally permissible to poach upon the preserves
of foreign nations; but apart from this there exist among the recipes
of foreigners many which can but enrich their adopter, besides being
generally appreciated.
=2. Braising, Poaching, Sautés, and Poëling.=
Except for the roasts, grills, and fryings, which will be discussed
later, all culinary operations dealing with meat are related to one of
the four following methods: Braising, _poëling_, poaching, and sautés.
These four methods of cooking belong, however, to the sauces, and this
explains how it is that the latter hold such a pre-eminent position in
French cookery.
Before devoting any attention to particular formulæ, which will be
given in the second part of this work, it seemed desirable to me to
recapitulate in a general way the theory of each of these cooking
methods. These theories are of paramount importance, since it is only
with a complete knowledge of them that good results may be obtained by
the culinary operator.
247—ORDINARY BRAISINGS
Of all the various culinary operations, braisings are the most
expensive and the most difficult. Long and assiduous practice alone
can teach the many difficulties that this mode of procedure entails,
for it is one which demands extraordinary care and the most constant
attention. Over and above the question of care and that of the quality
of meat used, which latter consideration is neither more nor less
important here than in any other cooking operation, there are also
these conditions to be fulfilled in order that a good braising may be
obtained, namely, that excellent stock should be used in moistening,
and that the braising base be well prepared.
_Meats that are Braised._—Mutton and beef are braised in the ordinary
way, but veal, lamb, and poultry are braised in a manner which I shall
treat of later.
Meat intended for braising need not, as in the case of roasts, be
that of young beasts. The best for the purpose is that derived from
an animal of three to six years of age in the case of beef, and one
to two years in the case of mutton. Good meat is rarely procured from
animals more advanced than these in years, and, even so, should it be
used, it would not only be necessary to protract the time of cooking
inordinately, but the resulting food would probably be fibrous and dry.
Properly speaking, meat derived from old or ill-nourished beasts only
answers two purposes in cookery, viz., the preparation of consommés and
that of various kinds of stock.
_The Larding of Meats for Braising._—When the meat to be braised is
ribs or fillet of beef, it is always interlarded, and consequently
never dry if of decent quality. But this is not the case with the meat
of the rumps, or with leg of mutton. These meats are not sufficiently
fat of themselves to allow of prolonged cooking without their becoming
dry. For this reason they are larded with square strips of bacon fat,
which should be as long as the meat under treatment, and about half an
inch thick. These strips of fat are first seasoned with pepper, nutmeg,
and spices, besprinkled with chopped parsley, and then _marinaded_ for
two hours in a little brandy. They should be inserted into the meat
equidistantly by means of special larding needles. The proportion of
fat to the meat should be about three oz. per lb.
_To Marinade Braisings._—Larded or not, the meats intended for braising
gain considerably from being _marinaded_ for a few hours in the wines
which are to supply their moistening and the aromatics constituting the
base of their liquor. Before doing this season them with salt, pepper,
and spices, rolling them over and over in these in order that they may
absorb the seasoning thoroughly. Then place them in a receptacle just
large enough to contain them, between two litters of aromatics, which
will be detailed hereafter; cover them with the wine which forms part
of their braising-liquor, and which is generally a white or red “vin
ordinaire,” in the proportion of one-quarter pint per lb. of meat, and
leave them to _marinade_ for about six hours, taking care to turn them
over three or four times during that period.
_The Aromatics or Base of the Braising._—These are thickly sliced and
fried carrots and onions, in the proportion of one oz. per lb. of meat,
one faggot, including one garlic clove and one and one-half oz. of
fresh, blanched bacon-rind.
_To Fry, Prepare, and Cook Braised Meat._—Having sufficiently
_marinaded_ the meat, drain it on a sieve for half an hour, and wipe
it dry with a clean piece of linen. Heat some clarified fat of white
consommé in a thick saucepan of convenient size, or a braising-pan,
and when it is sufficiently hot put the meat in the saucepan and let
it acquire colour on all sides. The object of this operation is to
cause a contraction of the pores of the meat, thereby surrounding the
latter with a species of cuirass, which prevents the inner juices from
escaping too soon and converting the braising into a boiling process.
The frying should, therefore, be a short or lengthy process according
as to whether the amount of meat to be braised be small or large.
Having properly fried the meat, withdraw it from the braising-pan,
cover it with slices of larding-bacon if it be lean, and string it. In
the case of fillets and ribs of beef, this treatment may be dispensed
with, as they are sufficiently well supplied with their own fat.
Now pour the _marinade_ prepared for the meat into the braising-pan,
and place the meat on a litter composed of the vegetables the
_marinade_ contained. Cover the pan and rapidly reduce the wine
therein. When this has assumed the consistency of syrup add sufficient
brown stock to cover the meat (it being understood that the latter only
just conveniently fills the pan), cover the braising-pan, set to boil,
and then put it in a moderate oven. Let the meat cook until it may be
deeply pricked with a braiding needle without any blood being drawn.
At this stage the first phase of braising, whereof the theory shall
be given hereafter, comes to an end, and the meat is transferred to
another clean utensil just large enough to hold it.
With respect to the cooking liquor, either of the two following modes
of procedure may now be adopted:—
1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over
the meat, through muslin, while the braising-pan should be placed in
the oven, where the cooking may go on until completed, interrupting it
only from time to time in order to baste the meat. This done, thicken
the liquor with arrow-root, after the manner of an ordinary thickened
gravy (No. 41).
2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should
be reduced to half before being put back on the meat, and it is
restored to its former volume by means of two-thirds of its quantity
of Espagnole sauce and one-third of tomato purée, or an equivalent
quantity of fresh tomatoes.
The cooking of the meat is completed in this sauce, and the basting
should be carried on as before. When it is cooked—that is to say, when
the point of a knife may easily be thrust into it without meeting with
any resistance whatsoever—it should be carefully withdrawn from the
sauce; the latter should be again strained through muslin and then
left to rest, with a view to letting the grease settle on the surface.
Carefully remove this grease, and rectify the sauce with a little
excellent stock if it is too thick, or by reduction if it is too thin.
_The Glazing of Braised Meat._—Braised meat is glazed in order to make
it more sightly, but this operation is by no means essential, and it is
quite useless when the meat is cut up previous to being served.
To glaze meat place it as soon as cooked in the front of the oven,
sprinkle it slightly with its cooking liquor (gravy or sauce), and push
it into the oven so that this liquor may dry. Being very gelatinous,
the latter adheres to the meat, while its superfluous water evaporates,
and thus coats the solid with a thin film of meat-glaze. This operation
is renewed eight or ten times, whereupon the meat is withdrawn from the
oven, placed on a dish, and covered until it is served.
_Various Remarks relative to Braising._—When a braised meat is to be
accompanied by vegetables, as in the case of beef à la mode, these
vegetables may either be cooked with the meat during the second
braising phase, after they have been duly coloured in butter with a
little salt and sugar, or they may be cooked separately with a portion
of the braising-liquor. The first procedure is the better, but it
lends itself less to a correct final dressing. It is, therefore, the
operator’s business to decide according to circumstances which is the
more suitable of the two.
I pointed out above that the cooking of braised meat consists of two
phases, and I shall now proceed to discuss each of these, so that the
reader may thoroughly understand their processes.
It has been seen that meat, to be braised, must in the first place be
fried all over, and this more particularly when it is very thick. The
object of this operation is to hold in the meat’s juices, which would
otherwise escape from the cut surfaces. Now, this frying produces a
kind of cuirass around the flesh, which gradually thickens during
the cooking process until it reaches the centre. Under the influence
of the heat of the surrounding liquor the meat fibres contract, and
steadily drive the contained juices towards the centre. Soon the heat
reaches the centre, where, after having effected a decomposition of the
juices therein collected, the latter release the superfluous water they
contain. This water quickly vaporises, and by so doing distends and
separates the tissues surrounding it. Thus, during this first phase, a
concentration of juices takes place in the centre of the meat. It will
now be seen that they undergo an absolutely different process in the
second.
As shown, the disaggregation of the muscular tissue begins in the
centre of the meat as soon as the temperature which reaches there is
sufficiently intense to vaporise the collected juices. The tension
of the vapour given off by the latter perforce increases by dint of
finding no issue; it therefore exerts considerable pressure upon the
tissues, though now its direction is the reverse of what it was in the
first place, _i.e._, from the centre to the periphery.
Gradually the tissues relax under the pressure and the effects of
cooking, and, the work of disaggregation having gradually reached
the fried surface, the latter also relaxes in its turn and allows
the constrained juices to escape and to mix with the sauce. At the
same time, however, the latter begins to filter through the meat, and
this it does in accordance with a well-known physical law, namely,
capillarity. This stage of the braising demands the most attentive
care. The braising-liquor is found to be considerably reduced and no
longer covers the meat, for the operation is nearing its end. The bared
meat would, therefore, dry very quickly, if care were not taken to
baste it constantly and to turn it over and over, so that the whole
of the muscular tissue is moistened and thoroughly saturated with the
sauce. By this means the meat acquires that mellowness which is typical
of braisings and distinguishes them from other preparations.
I should be loth to dismiss this subject before pointing out two
practices in the cooking of braisings which are as common as they are
absolutely wrong. The first of these is the “_pinçage_” of the braising
base. Instead of laying the fried meat on a litter of aromatics,
likewise fried beforehand, many operators place the meat, which they
often omit to fry, on raw aromatics at the bottom of the braising-pan.
The whole is sprinkled with a little melted fat, and the aromatics are
left to fry, on one side only, until they begin to burn on the bottom
of the receptacle.
If this operation were properly conducted it might be tolerated, even
though aromatics which are only fried on one side cannot exude the same
savour as those which are fried all over. But nine times out of ten the
frying is too lengthy a process; from neglect or absent-mindedness the
aromatics are left to burn on the bottom of the pan, and there results
a bitterness which pervades and spoils the whole sauce.
As a matter of fact, this process of “_pinçage_” is an absurd
caricature of a method of preparing braisings which was very common in
old cookery, the custom of which was not to prepare the braising-liquor
in advance, but to cook it and its ingredients simultaneously with the
meat to be braised. This method, though excellent, was very expensive,
the meats forming the base of the braising-liquor consisting of thick
slices of raw ham or veal. The observance of economy, therefore,
long ago compelled cooks to abandon this procedure. But routine has
perpetuated the _form_ of the latter without insisting upon the use of
its constituents, which were undoubtedly its essential part. Routine
has even, in certain cases, aggravated the first error by instituting
a habit consisting of substituting bones for the meats formerly
employed—an obviously ridiculous practice.
In the production of ordinary consommé (No. 1) we saw that bones, even
when taken from veal, as is customary in the case of braising-liquor,
require, at the very least, ten to twelve hours of cooking before
they can yield all their soluble properties. As a proof of this it is
interesting to note that, if bones undergo only five or six hours of
cooking, and are moistened afresh and cooked for a further six hours,
the liquor of the second cooking yields more meat-glaze than that of
the first; though it must be admitted that, while the latter is more
gelatinous, it has less savour. But this gelatinous property of bones
is no less useful to braisings than is their savour, since it is the
former that supplies the mellowness, which nothing can replace and
without which the sauce can have no quality.
Since, therefore, the longest time that a braising can cook is from
four to five hours, it follows that, if bones be added thereto, their
properties will scarcely have begun disaggregating when the meat is
cooked. They will, in fact, have yielded but an infinitesimal portion
of these properties; wherefore their addition to the braising is, to
say the least, quite useless.
It now remains to be proved that the above method is bad from another
point of view.
I suppose I need not fear contradiction when I assert that, in
order that a braising may be good, its sauce should be short and
correspondingly substantial; also that the sauce obtained from a piece
of meat moistened with a quart of liquid cannot be so good as that
resulting from the moistening of a pint only.
It is more particularly on this account that I advise a braising
utensil which can only just hold the meat, for since, in the first
stage, the meat is only moistened with the braising-liquor, the
smaller the receptacle may be the less liquor will it require, and the
latter will in consequence be the tastier. Hence, if bones be added to
the braising, the utensil must necessarily be larger, and a greater
quantity of braising-liquor must be used. But this liquor will not
be nearly so savoury as that obtained from the process I recommend;
in fact, it will be but a rather strong broth, quite unfit for the
impregnation of the meat, and the final result will be a tasteless lump
of fibre instead of a succulent braising.
I must apologise to the reader for my insistence with regard to these
questions, but their importance is such that success is beyond reach in
the matter of brown sauces and braisings unless the above details have
been thoroughly grasped. Moreover, the explanations given will afford
considerable help in the understanding of operations which I shall give
later; therefore it is to be hoped that the examination of the theories
involved, however long this has been, will prove of use and assistance.
248—BRAISING OF WHITE MEATS
_The braising of white meats_ as it is now effected in modern cookery
is, strictly speaking, not braising at all, inasmuch as the cooking is
stopped at the close of the first of the two phases which I mentioned
when discussing brown braisings. True, old cookery did not understand
braising in the way that the modern school does, and under the ancient
régime large pieces, especially of veal, were frequently cooked until
they could almost be scooped with a spoon. This practice has been
generally, though mistakenly, eschewed, but its name survives.
White braisings are made with the neck, the saddle, the loin, the
fillets, the fricandeaus, and the sweet-bread of veal, young turkeys
and fat pullets, and sometimes, though less frequently, relevés of
lamb, hindquarters or saddle. The procedure is the same for all these
meats; the time of cooking alone varies in accordance with their size.
The aromatics are the same as those of the brown braisings, but the
frying of them is optional.
The moistening liquor is brown veal stock (No. 9).
_Mode of Procedure._—Except for the veal sweet-bread, which is always
blanched before being braised, the meats or poultry to be treated may
always be slightly stiffened and browned in butter, on all sides. This
is not essential in all cases, but I think that when they do undergo
something of the kind they dry less quickly. Now place them in a
utensil just large enough to hold them and deep enough to keep the lid
from touching them. Place the aromatics under them and moisten with a
little veal stock; set to boil on a moderate fire, and reduce the veal
stock with the lid on. When this stock has assumed the consistence of
a glaze, add a further similar quantity of fresh stock, and reduce as
before. The third time moisten the veal until it is half covered, and
push the pan into a moderate oven.
The meat needs constant basting while it cooks, in order to avoid its
drying; and, as the stock is very gelatinous, it forms a coating on
the surface which resists the evaporation of the contained juices; for
these, being insufficiently constrained by the slight frying the meat
has undergone, tend to vaporise under the influence of the heat.
It is for this reason that the stock must be reduced to a glaze before
finally moistening. If the moistening were all done at once, the liquor
would not be sufficiently dense to form the coating mentioned above,
and the meat would consequently dry on being set to cook.
Braised white meat is known to be cooked when, after having deeply
pricked it with a braiding needle, it exudes an absolutely colourless
liquid. This liquid denotes that the piece is cooked to the centre, and
as a result thereof the blood has decomposed.
There lies the great difference between brown braisings and white-meat
braisings. The latter are practically roasts, and they should not be
made with any but young poultry or meats, very fat and tender, for
they cannot go beyond their correct time of cooking, which equals that
of roasts, without immediately losing all their quality. A quarter of
an hour too much in the cooking of a kernel of veal weighing about
six lbs. is enough to make the meat dry and unpalatable, and to
thoroughly spoil it, whereas a brown braising cannot be over-cooked,
provided it do not burn.
White braised meats are generally glazed, and this process is
especially recommended for larded pieces, which, though less common
nowadays than formerly, can still claim many votaries.
249—POACHINGS
However nonsensical it may sound, the best possible definition of
a poaching is a boiling that does not boil. The term _poach_ is
extended to all slow processes of cooking which involve the use of a
liquor, however small. Thus the term poach applies to the cooking in
_court-bouillon_ of large pieces of turbot and salmon, as well as to
fillets of sole cooked with a little fish _fumet_, to hot _mousselines_
and _mousses_, cooked in moulds, to quenelles which are cooked in
salted water, to eggs announced as “poached,” to creams, various
royales, &c. It will readily be seen that among so many different
products, the time allowed for the cooking in each case must differ
sometimes widely from the rest. The treatment of them all, however, is
subject to this unalterable principle, namely, that the poaching liquor
must not boil, though it should reach a degree of heat as approximate
as possible to boiling-point. Another principle is that large pieces
of fish or poultry be set to boil in cold liquor, after which the
latter is brought to the required temperature as rapidly as possible.
The case may be the same with fillets of sole, or poultry, which are
poached almost dry; but all other preparations whose mode of cooking
is poaching gain by being immersed in liquor which has reached the
required temperature beforehand.
Having regard to the multitudinous forms and kinds of products that
are poached, it would be somewhat difficult to state here the details
and peculiarities proper to each in the matter of poaching; I think,
therefore, I should do better to leave these details to the respective
recipes of each product, though it will now be necessary to disclose
the way of poaching poultry, if only with a view to thoroughly
acquainting the reader with the theory propounded above.
Properly prepare the piece of poultry to be poached, and truss it with
its legs folded back alongside of the breast.
If it is to be stuffed, this should be done before trussing.
If it is to be larded or studded, either with truffles, ham, or tongue,
rub it when trussed on the fillets and legs with half a lemon, and dip
the same portions of its body (namely, those to be larded or studded)
for a few moments in boiling white stock. The object of this operation
is to slightly stiffen the skin, thus facilitating the larding or
studding.
_The Cooking of the Piece of Poultry._—Having stuffed, larded, or
studded it, if necessary, and having, in any case, trussed it, place
it in a receptacle just large enough to hold it, and moisten with some
excellent white stock previously prepared.
Set to boil, skim, put the lid on, and continue the cooking at a low
simmer. It is useless to work too quickly, as the operation would not
be shortened a second by so doing. The only results would be:—
1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb
its limpidness.
2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry,
especially when the latter is stuffed.
The fowl, or whatever it may be, is known to be cooked when, after
pricking the thick of the leg close to the “drumstick,” the issuing
liquid is white.
_Remarks._—(_a_) The need of poaching poultry in a receptacle just
large enough to hold the piece is accounted for as follows: (1) The
piece must be wholly immersed in the stock during the cooking process.
(2) As the liquor used is afterwards served as an accompanying sauce
to the dish, the less there is of it the more saturated does it become
with the juices of the meat, and, consequently, the better it is.
(_b_) (1) The white stock used in poaching should be prepared
beforehand, and be very clear.
(2) If the piece of poultry were set to cook with the products
constituting the stock, even if these were more than liberally
apportioned, the result would be bad, for inasmuch as a fowl, for
example, can only take one and one-half hours, at the most, to cook,
and the time required for extracting the nutritious and aromatic
principles from the constituents of the stock would be at least six
hours, it follows that the fowl would be cooking in little more than
hot water, and the resulting sauce would be quite devoid of savour.
250—POËLINGS
Poëlings are, practically speaking, roasts, for the cooking periods
of each are the same, except that the former are cooked entirely or
almost entirely with butter. They represent a simplified process of old
cookery, which consisted in enveloping the object to be treated, after
frying it, in a thick coating of _Matignon_. It was then wrapped with
thin slices of pork fat, covered with buttered paper, placed in the
oven or on a spit, and basted with melted butter while it cooked. This
done, its grease was drained away, and the vegetables of the _matignon_
were inserted in the braising-pan wherein the piece had cooked, or in a
saucepan, and were moistened with excellent Madeira or highly seasoned
stock. Then, when the liquor had thoroughly absorbed the aroma of the
vegetables, it was strained, and its grease was removed just before
dishing up. This excellent method is worthy of continued use in the
case of large pieces of poultry.
_Preparation of Poëled Meats._—Place in the bottom of a deep and thick
receptacle, just large enough to hold the piece to be poëled, a layer
of raw _matignon_ (No. 227). The meat or piece of poultry is placed
on the vegetables after it has been well seasoned, and is copiously
sprinkled with melted butter; cover the utensil, and push it into an
oven whose heat is not too fierce. Set it to cook gently in this way,
after the manner of a stew, and frequently sprinkle with melted butter.
When the meats or the pieces of poultry are cooked, the utensil is
uncovered so that the former may acquire a fine colour; then they
are transferred to a dish which should be kept covered until taken
to the table. Now add to the vegetables (which must not be burned) a
sufficient quantity of brown veal stock (No. 9), transparent and highly
seasoned; set the whole to boil gently for ten minutes, strain through
a serviette, carefully remove all grease from the poëling stock and
send it to the table in a sauceboat at the same time as the meat or
poultry, which, by the bye, is generally garnished.
_Remarks on Poëlings._—It is of paramount importance that these be not
moistened during the process of cooking, for in that case their savour
would be the same as that of braised white meats.
Nevertheless, an exception may be made in the case of such feathered
game as pheasants, partridges, and quails, to which is added, when
nearly cooked, a small quantity of burnt brandy.
It is also very important that the vegetables should not have their
grease removed before their moistening stock is added to them. The
butter used in the cooking absorbs a large proportion of the savour of
both the vegetables and the meat under treatment, and, to make good
this loss, it is essential that the moistening stock remain at least
ten minutes in contact with the butter. At the end of this time it may
be removed without in the least impairing the aroma of the stock.
_Special Poëlings known as “En Casserole,” or “En Cocotte.”_—The
preparations of butcher’s meats, of poultry, or game, known as “en
casserole” or “en cocotte,” are actual poëlings cooked in special
earthenware utensils and served in the same. Generally, preparations
known as “en casserole” are simply cooked in butter, without the
addition of vegetables.
When the cooking is done, the piece under treatment is withdrawn for
a moment, and some excellent brown veal stock (No. 9) is poured into
the utensil. This is left to simmer for a few minutes; the superfluous
butter is then removed; the piece is returned to the earthenware
utensil, and it is kept hot, without being allowed to boil, until it is
dished up.
For preparations termed “en cocotte,” the procedure is the same, except
that the piece is garnished with such vegetables as mushrooms, the
bottoms of artichokes, small onions, carrots, turnips, &c., which are
either turned or regularly pared, and half cooked in butter before
being used.
One should endeavour to use only fresh vegetables, and these should be
added to the piece constituting the dish in such wise as to complete
their cooking with it.
The earthenware utensils used for this purpose improve with use,
provided they be cleaned with clean, fresh water, without any soda or
soap. If new utensils have to be used, these should be filled with
water, which is set to boil, and they should then undergo at least
twelve hours’ soaking. For the prescribed time this water should be
kept gently boiling, and then the utensil should be well wiped and
soaked anew, in fresh water, before being used.
251—THE SAUTÉS
What characterises the process we call “sauté” is that the object
treated is cooked _dry_—that is to say, solely by means of a fatty
substance such as butter, oil, or grease.
Sautés are made with cut-up fowl or game, or with butcher’s meat
suitably divided up for the purpose.
All products treated in this way must be frizzled—that is to say, they
must be put into the fat when it is very hot in order that a hardened
coating may form around them which will keep their juices within. This
is more particularly desirable for red meats such as beef and mutton.
The cooking of _fowl sautés_ must, after the meats have been frizzled,
be completed on the stove or, with lid off, in the oven, where they
should be basted with butter after the manner of a roast.
The pieces are withdrawn from the utensil with a view to swilling the
latter, after which, if they be put back into the sauce or accompanying
garnish, they should only remain therein a few moments or just
sufficiently long to become properly warm.
The procedure is the same for _game sautés_.
_Sautés of butcher’s meats_ (red meats), such as tournedos, kernels,
cutlets, fillets, and noisettes, are always effected on the stove; the
meats are frizzled and cooked with a small quantity of clarified butter.
The thinner and smaller they are, the more rapidly should the frizzling
process be effected.
When blood appears on the surface of their raw side, they should be
turned over; when drops of blood begin to bedew their other side, they
are known to be cooked.
The swilling of the utensil obtains in all sautés. After having
withdrawn the treated product from the saucepan, remove the grease
and pour the condimentary liquid (a wine), that forms part of the
accompanying sauce, into the saucepan.
Set to boil, so that the solidified gravy lying on the bottom may
dissolve, and add the sauce; or simply add the swilling liquid to the
prepared sauce or accompanying garnish of the sauté. The utensil used
must always be just large enough to hold the objects to be treated. If
it be too large, the parts left uncovered by the treated meats burn,
and swilling is then impossible, whence there results a loss of the
solidified gravy which is an important constituent in the sauce.
_Sautés of white, butcher’s meats_, such as veal and lamb, must also be
frizzled in hot fat, but their cooking must be completed gently on the
side of the fire, and in many cases with lid on.
Preparations of a mixed nature, which partly resemble sautés and partly
braisings, are also called sautés. Stews, however, is their most
suitable name.
These dishes are made from beef, veal, lamb, game, &c., and they are to
be found in Part II. under the headings Estouffade; Goulash; Sautés:
Chasseur, Marengo, Bourgeoise; Navarin; Civet; &c.
In the first stage of their preparation, the meats are cut up small and
fried like those of the sautés; in the second, slow cooking with sauce
or garnish makes them akin to braised meats.
=3. Roasts, Grills, Fryings.=
=Roasts.=
Of the two usual methods of roasting, the spit will always be used in
preference to the oven, if only on account of the conditions under
which the operation is effected, and whatever be the kind of fuel
used—wood, coal, or gas.
The reason of this preference is clear if it be remembered that, in
spite of every possible precaution during the progress of an oven
roast, it is impossible to avoid an accumulation of vapour around the
cooking object in a closed oven. And this steam is more particularly
objectionable inasmuch as it is excessive in the case of delicately
flavoured meats, which latter are almost if not entirely impaired
thereby.
The spitted roast, on the contrary, cooks in the open in a dry
atmosphere, and by this means retains its own peculiar flavour. Hence
the unquestionable superiority of spitted roasts over the oven kind,
especially in respect of small feathered game.
In certain circumstances and places there is no choice of means, and,
_nolens volens_, the oven has to be used; but, in this case at least,
all possible precautions should be observed in order to counteract the
effects of the steam above mentioned.
252—LARDING BACON FOR ROASTS
Poultry and game to be roasted ought generally to be partly covered
with a large thin slice of larding bacon, except those pieces of game
which in special cases are larded.
The object and use of these slices are not only to shield the fillets
of fowl and game from the severe heat of the fires but also to prevent
these from drying while the legs, which the heat takes much longer to
penetrate than the other parts, are cooking. The slices of bacon should
therefore completely cover the breasts of fowl and game, and they
should be tied on to the latter by means of string.
In some cases roasts of butcher’s meat are covered with layers of
veal- or beef-fat, the object of which is similar to that of the bacon
prescribed above.
253—SPITTED ROASTS
The whole theory of roasts on the spit might be condensed as follows:—
In the case of butcher’s meat, calculate the intensity of the heat used
according to the piece to be roasted, the latter’s size and quality,
and the time it has hung. Experience, however, is the best guide,
for any theory, whatever be its exactness, can only give the leading
principles and general rules, and cannot pretend to supply the place of
the practised eye and the accuracy which are the result of experience
alone.
Nevertheless, I do not say with Brillat Savarin that a roaster is born
and not made; I merely state that one may become a good roaster with
application, observation, care, and a little aptitude.
The three following rules will be found to cover all the necessary
directions for spitted roasts:—
1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be
properly set, and then, according to their size, made to undergo the
action of a fire capable of radiating a very penetrating heat with
little or no flame.
2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the
fire ought to be so regulated as to allow the roast to cook and colour
simultaneously.
3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used
the fire ought to be made up in suchwise as to produce more flame than
glowing embers.
254—OVEN ROASTS
The degree of heat used for each roast must be regulated according to
the nature and size of the latter after the manner of spitted roasts.
An oven roast, in the first place, should always be placed on a
meatstand, and this should be of such a height that at no given moment
during the cooking process the meat may come in contact with the juices
and fat which have drained from it into the utensil beneath. Failing a
proper stand, a spit resting upon the edges of the utensil may be used.
No liquid of any kind, gravy or water, need be put in the baking-pan.
The addition of any liquid is rather prejudicial than otherwise, since
by producing vapour which hangs over the roast it transforms the latter
into a stew.
_Remarks._—Whether spitted or in the oven, a roast must always be
frequently basted with a fatty substance, but never with any other
liquid.
255—THE GRAVY OF ROASTS
The real and most natural gravy for roasts is made from the swilling
of the baking- or dripping-pan, even if water be used as the diluent,
since the contents of these utensils represent a portion of the
essential principles of the roast fallen from it in the process of
cooking. But to obtain this result neither the utensils nor the gravy
ought to have burned; the latter should merely have solidified, and for
this reason a roast cooked in a very fierce oven ought to be laid on a
pan only just large enough to hold it, so that the fat may not burn.
The swilling can in any case only produce a very small quantity of
gravy, consequently, when it happens that a greater quantity is
required, the need is met beforehand by preparing a stock made from
bones and trimmings of a similar nature to the roast for which the
gravy is required. The procedure for this is as follows:—
Place the bones and trimmings in a pan with a little fat and literally
roast them. Then transfer them to a saucepan, moisten so as to cover
with tepid, slightly-salted water, and add thereto the swillings of the
pan wherein they were roasted. Boil, skim, and set to cook gently for
three or four hours, according to the nature of the products used. This
done, almost entirely remove the grease, strain through muslin, and put
aside for the purpose of swilling the dripping- or baking-pan of the
roast.
_Swilling._—Having removed the roast from the spit or oven, take off a
portion of the grease from the baking- or dripping-pan, and pour into
it the required quantity of prepared gravy. Reduce the whole by half,
strain through muslin, and almost entirely remove grease.
It is a mistake to remove all the grease from, and to clarify, the
gravy of roasts. Treated thus they are certainly clearer and more
sightly, but a large proportion of their savour is lost, and it should
be borne in mind that the gravy of a roast is not a consommé.
In the matter of roast feathered game, the accompanying gravy is
supplied by the swilling of the utensil, either with water or a small
quantity of brandy. This is a certain means of obtaining a gravy whose
savour is precisely that of the game; but occasionally veal gravy is
used, as its flavour is neutral, and it therefore cannot impair the
particular flavour of the reduced game gravy lying on the bottom of the
utensil. The use of stock prepared from the bones and trimmings of game
similar to that constituting the dish is also common.
256—THE DRESSING AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF ROASTS
As a rule, a roast ought not to wait. It ought only to leave the spit
or oven in order to be served. All roasts should be placed on very
hot dishes, slightly besprinkled with fresh butter, and surrounded
by bunches of watercress (this is optional). The gravy is invariably
served separately.
Roasts of butcher’s meat and poultry are dished up as simply as
possible.
Small roasted game may be dished up on fried slices of bread-crumb
masked with _gratin_ stuffing (No. 202).
When lemons accompany a roast, they should be served separately. Pieces
of lemon that have once served to garnish a dish must not be used, for
they have mostly been tainted by grease.
The mediæval custom of dishing game with the plumage has been abandoned.
Roast feathered game à l’anglaise is dished up with or without potato
chips, and the three adjuncts are gravy, bread-crumbs, and bread-sauce.
In northern countries game roasts are always accompanied either by
slightly sugared stewed apples, or by cherry or apricot jam.
257—GRILLS
Those culinary preparations effected by means of grilling belong to
the order called cooking by concentration. And, indeed, in almost
all cases, the great object of these operations, I might even say the
greatest object, is the concentration, in the centre, of the juices and
essences which represent, most essentially, the nutritive principles of
the products cooked.
A grill, which is, in short, but a roast on an open fire, stands, in my
opinion, as the remote starting-point, the very genesis of our art.
It was the primæval notion of our forefathers’ infantile brains; it was
progress born of an instinctive desire to eat with greater pleasure;
and it was the first culinary method ever employed.
A little later, and following naturally, as it were, upon this first
attempt, the spit was born of the grill; gradually, intelligence
supplanted rude instinct; reason began to deduce effects from supposed
causes; and thus cooking was launched forth upon that highroad along
which it has not yet ceased steadily to advance.
_Fuel for Grills._—That mostly used, and certainly the best for the
purpose, is live coal or small pieces of charcoal. Whatever fuel be
used, however, it is essential that it produce no smoke, even though
the grill fire be ventilated by powerful blowers which draw the smoke
off. More especially is this necessary, though I admit the contingency
is rare, when artificial ventilation has to be effected owing to
the fire’s burning in the open without the usual help of systematic
draughts; for if smoke occasioned by foreign substances or by the
falling of the fat itself on to the glowing embers were not immediately
carried away, either artificially or by a convenient draught, the
grills would most surely acquire a very disagreeable taste therefrom.
_The Bed of Charcoal._—The arrangement of the bed of charcoal under
the grill is of some importance, and it must not only be regulated
according to the size and kind of the products to be grilled, but also
in such wise as to allow of the production of more or less heat under
given circumstances.
The bed should therefore be set in equal layers in the centre, but
varying in thickness according as to whether the fire has to be more or
less fierce; it should also be slightly raised on those sides which are
in contact with the air, in order that the whole burning surface may
radiate equal degrees of heat.
The grill must always be placed over the glowing fuel in advance, and
it should be very hot when the objects to be grilled are placed upon
it, otherwise they would stick to the bars, and would probably be
spoiled when turned.
=Grills Classified.=
Grills may be divided into four classes, of which each demands
particular care. They are: (1) Red-meat grills (beef and mutton);
(2) White-meat grills (veal, lamb, poultry); (3) Fish; (4) Grills
coated with butter and bread-crumbs.
258—RED MEAT GRILLS
I submit as a principle that the golden rule in grills is to strictly
observe the correct degree of heat which is proper to each treated
object, never forgetting that the larger and richer in nutrition the
piece of meat, the quicker and more thorough must be its initial
setting.
I have already explained, under braisings, the part played by, and the
use of, rissoling or setting; but it is necessary to revert to this
question and its bearing upon grills.
If large pieces of meat (beef or mutton) are in question, the better
their quality and the richer they are in juices, the more resisting
must be the rissoled coating they receive. The pressure of the
contained juices upon the rissoled coating of this meat will be
proportionately great or small according to whether the latter be rich
or poor, and this pressure will gradually increase with the waxing heat.
If the grill fire be so regulated as to ensure the progressive
penetration of heat into the cooking object, this is what happens:—
The heat, striking that surface of the meat which is in direct
communication with the fire, penetrates the tissues, and spreads
stratiformly through the body, driving the latter’s juices in front of
it. When these reach the opposite, rissoled, or set side of the meat,
they are checked, and thereupon, absorbing the incoming heat, effect
the cooking of the inner parts.
Of course, if the piece of meat under treatment is very thick, the
fierceness of the fire should be proportionately abated the moment the
initial process of rissoling or setting of the meat’s surface has been
effected, the object being to allow the heat to penetrate the cooking
body more regularly. If the fierceness of the fire were maintained, the
rissoled coating on the meat would probably char, and the resulting
thickness of carbon would so successfully resist the passage of any
heat into the interior that, in the end, while the meat would probably
be found to be completely burnt on the outside, the inside would be
quite raw.
If somewhat thinner pieces are in question, a quick rissoling of their
surfaces over a fierce fire, and a few minutes of subsequent cooking,
will be all they need. No alteration in the intensity of the fire need
be sought in this case.
_Examples._—A rumpsteak or Châteaubriand, in order to be properly
cooked, should first have its outsides rissoled on a very fierce fire
with a view to preserving its juices, after which cooking may proceed
over a moderate fire so as to allow of the gradual penetration of the
heat into the centre of the body.
Small pieces such as tournedos, small fillets, noisettes, chops, may,
after the preliminary process of outside rissoling, be cooked over the
same degree of heat as effected the latter, because the thickness of
meat to be penetrated is less.
_The Care of Grills while Cooking._—Before placing the meats on the
grill, baste them slightly with clarified butter, and repeat this
operation frequently during the cooking process, so as to avoid the
possible drying of the rissoled surfaces.
Grilled red meat should always be turned by means of special tongs, and
great care should be observed that its surface be not torn or pierced,
lest the object of the preliminary precautions be defeated, and the
contained juices escape.
_Time of Cooking._—This, in the case of red meats, is arrived at by the
following test: if, on touching the meat with one’s finger, the former
resist any pressure, it is sufficiently cooked: if it give, it is clear
that in the centre, at least, the reverse is the case. The most certain
sign, however, that cooking has been completed is the appearance of
little beads of blood upon the rissoled surface of the meat.
259—WHITE-MEAT GRILLS
That superficial rissoling which is so necessary in the case of red
meats is not at all so in the case of white, for in the latter there
can be no question of the concentration of juices, since these are only
present in the form of albumen—that is to say, in the form of juices
“in the making,” so to speak, which is peculiar to veal and lamb.
For this kind of grills keep a moderate fire, so that the cooking and
colouring of the meat may take place simultaneously.
White-meat grills should be fairly often basted by means of a brush,
with clarified butter, while cooking, lest their outsides dry.
They are known to be cooked when the juice issuing from them is quite
white.
260—FISH GRILLS
Use a moderate fire with these, and only grill after having copiously
sprinkled them with clarified butter or oil. Sprinkle them similarly
while cooking.
A grilled fish is cooked when the bones are easily separated from the
meat. Except for the fatty kind, such as mackerel, red mullet, or
herrings, always roll fish to be grilled in flour before sprinkling
them with melted butter. The object of so doing is to give them a
golden external crust, which, besides making them more sightly, keeps
them from drying.
261—THE GRILLING OF PRODUCTS COATED WITH BUTTER AND BREAD-CRUMBS
These grills generally consist of only small objects; they must be
effected on a very moderate fire, with the view of enabling them to
cook and acquire colour simultaneously. They should also be frequently
besprinkled with clarified butter, and turned with care, so as not to
break their coating, the object of which is to withhold their contained
juices.
262—FRYINGS
Frying is one of the principal cooking processes, for the number of
preparations that are accomplished by its means is very considerable.
Its procedure is governed by stringent laws and rules which it is best
not to break, lest the double danger of failure and impairment of
material be incurred.
The former is easily averted if one is familiar with the process,
and pays proper attention to it, while the latter is obviated by
precautions which have every _raison d’être_, and the neglect of which
only leads to trouble.
The question of the kind of utensil to employ is not so immaterial
as some would think, for very often accidents result from the mere
disregard of the importance of this matter.
Very often imprudence and bluster on the part of the operator may be
the cause of imperfections, the greatest care being needed in the
handling of utensils containing overheated fat.
Utensils used in frying should be made of copper, or other resisting
metal; they should be in one piece, oval or round in shape, and
sufficiently large and deep to allow, while only half-filled with fat,
of the objects being properly affected by the latter. The necessity of
this condition is obvious, seeing that if the utensil contain too much
fat the slightest jerking of it on the stove would spill some of the
liquid, and the operator would probably be badly burnt.
Finally, utensils with vertical sides are preferable to those with the
slanting kind; more especially is this so in large kitchens where, the
work involving much frying, capacious receptacles are required.
263—FRYING FAT—ITS PREPARATION
Any animal or vegetable grease is suitable for frying, provided it be
quite pure and possess a resisting force allowing it to reach a very
high temperature without burning. But for frying on a large scale, the
use of cooked and clarified fats, such as the fat of “pot-au-feu” and
roasts, should be avoided.
A frying medium is only perfect when it is able to meet the demands of
a protracted operation, and consists of fresh or raw fats, chosen with
care and thoroughly purified by cooking.
Under no circumstances may butter be used for frying on a large
scale, seeing that, even when thoroughly purified, it can only reach
a comparatively low degree of heat. It may be used only for _small,
occasional fryings_.
The fat of kidney of beef generally forms the base of the grease
intended for frying on a large scale. It is preferable to all others on
account of its cheapness and the great length of time it can be worked,
provided it receives the proper care.
Veal-fat yields a finer frying medium, but its resistance is small, and
it must, moreover, always be strengthened with the fat of beef.
Mutton-fat should be deliberately discarded, for, if it happen to be
that of an old beast, it smells of tallow, and, if it be that of a
young one, it causes the hot grease to foam and to overflow down the
sides of the utensil, this leading to serious accidents.
Pork-fat is also used for frying, either alone, or combined with some
other kind.
In brief, the fat of kidney of beef is that which is best suited
to fryings on a large scale. Ordinary household frying, which does
not demand a very resisting grease, may well be effected by means
of the above, combined with an equal quantity of veal-fat, or a
mixture composed of the fat of kidney of beef, veal, and pork in the
proportions of one-half, one-quarter, and one-quarter respectively.
The grease used for frying ought not only to be melted down, but also
thoroughly cooked, so that it may be quite pure. If insufficiently
cooked, it foams on first being used, and so demands all kinds of extra
precautions, which only cease to be necessary when constant heating
at last rectifies it. Moreover, if it be not quite pure, it easily
penetrates immersed solids and makes them indigestible.
All grease used in frying should first be cut into pieces and then put
into the saucepan with one pint of water per every ten lbs.
The object of the water is to assist in the melting, and this it does
by filtering into the grease, vaporising, and thereby causing the
latter to swell. So long as the water has not completely evaporated,
the grease only undergoes the action of liquefaction, _i.e._, the
dissolution of its molecules; but its thorough cooking process, ending
with its purification, only begins when all the water is gone.
The grease is cooked when (1) the membranes which enveloped it alone
remain intact and are converted into greaves; (2) it gives off smoke
which has a distinct smell.
At this stage it has reached such a high temperature that it is best
to remove it from the fire for about ten minutes, so that it may cool;
then it must be strained through a sieve, or a coarse towel, which must
be tightly twisted.
264—THE VARIOUS DEGREES OF HEAT REACHED BY THE FRYING MEDIUM, AND THEIR
APPLICATION
The temperature reached by a frying medium depends upon the latter’s
constituents and its purity. The various degrees may be classified as
moderately hot, hot, very hot.
The expression “boiling hot” is unsuitable, seeing that fat never
boils. Butter (an occasional frying medium) cannot overreach 248° F.
without burning, whereas if it be thoroughly purified it can attain
from 269° to 275° F.—a temperature which is clearly below what would be
needed for work on a large scale.
Animal greases used in ordinary frying reach from 275° to 284° F. when
moderately hot, 320° F. when hot, and 356° F. when very hot; in the
last case they smoke slightly.
Pork-fat (lard), when used alone, reaches 392° F. without burning. Very
pure goose dripping withstands 428° F.; and, finally, vegetable fats
may reach, without burning, 482° F. in the case of cocoa-nut butter,
518° F. with ordinary oils, and 554° in the case of olive oil.
The temperature of ordinary frying fat may be tested thus: it is
moderately hot when, after throwing a sprig of parsley or a crust
of bread into it, it begins to bubble immediately; it is hot if it
crackles when a slightly moist object is thrust into it; it is very hot
when it gives off a thin white smoke perceptible to the smell.
The first temperature, “moderately hot,” is used (1) for all products
containing vegetable water the complete evaporation of which is
necessary; (2) for fish whose volume exacts a cooking process by means
of penetration, previous to that with concentration.
In the first degree of heat with which it is used the frying fat
therefore only effects a kind of preparatory operation.
The second temperature, “hot,” is used for all products which
have previously undergone an initial cooking process in the first
temperature, either for evaporation or penetration, and its object is
either to finish them or to cover them with a crimped coating.
It is also applicable to those products upon which the frying fat
must act immediately by concentration—that is to say, by forming a
set coating around them which prevents the escape of the contained
substances.
Objects treated with this temperature are: all those _panés à
l’anglaise_ or covered with batter, such as various _croquettes_,
_cromesquis_, cutlets, and collops à la Villeroy, fritters of all
kinds, fried creams, &c.
In this case the frying medium acts by setting, which in certain cases
is exceedingly necessary.
1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped
in beaten eggs and rolled in bread-crumbs, the sudden contact of
the hot grease converts this coating of egg and bread-crumbs into a
resisting crust, which prevents the escape of the substances and the
liquefied sauce contained within.
If these objects were plunged in a fat that was not sufficiently hot,
the coating of egg and bread-crumbs would not only imbibe the frying
medium, but it would run the risk of breaking, thereby allowing the
escape of the very substances it was intended to withhold.
2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute
necessity of ensuring that setting which means that the covering of
batter solidifies immediately. As the substances constituting these
various dishes are cooked in advance, it follows that their second
heating and the colouring of the coating (egg and bread-crumbs or
batter) take place at the same time and in a few minutes.
The third temperature, “very hot,” is used (1) for all objects that
need a sharp and firm setting; (2) for all small objects the setting of
which is of supreme importance, and whose cooking is effected in a few
minutes, as in the case of whitebait.
265—FRYING MEDIUM FOR FISH
Every frying medium, used for work on a large scale, which has acquired
a too decided colouring through repeated use, may serve in the
preparation of fish even until its whole strength is exhausted.
Oil is best suited to the frying of fish, especially the very small
kind, owing to the tremendous heat it can withstand without burning,
for this heat guarantees that setting which is so indispensable.
Except in this case, however, the temperature of the frying medium
should be regulated strictly in accordance with the size of the fish
to be fried, in order that its cooking and colouring may be effected
simultaneously.
Except _Nonats_ and whitebait, which are simply rolled in flour, fish
to be fried are previously steeped in slightly salted milk and then
rolled in flour. From this combination of milk and flour there results
a crisp coating which withholds those particular principles that the
fish exude while cooking.
When finished, fried fish are drained, dried, slightly salted,
and dished on a serviette or on paper, with a garnish of fried
parsley-sprays and sections of channelled lemon.
266—THE QUANTITY OF THE FRYING MEDIUM
This should always be in proportion to the quantity or size of the
objects to be fried, bearing in mind that these must always be entirely
submerged.
Without necessarily exaggerating, the quantity should invariably be
rather in excess of the requirements, and for this reason, viz., the
greater the amount of fat, the higher will be the temperature reached,
and the less need one fear a sudden cooling of the fat when the objects
to be treated are immersed. This sudden cooling is often the cause of
great trouble, unless one be working over a fire of such fierceness
that the fat can return in a few seconds to the temperature it was at
before the objects were immersed.
267—THE CARE OF THE FRYING MEDIUM
Every time a frying fat is used it should, after having been melted,
be strained through a towel, for the majority of objects which it has
served to cook must have left some particles behind them which might
prove prejudicial to the objects that are to follow.
Objects that are “_panés_” always leave some raspings, for instance,
which in time assume the form of black powder, while those that have
been treated with flour likewise drop some of their coating, which, in
accumulating, produces a muddy precipitate on the bottom of the utensil.
Not only do these foreign substances disturb the clearness of the fat
and render it liable to burn, but they are exceedingly detrimental to
the objects that are treated later.
Therefore, always strain the fat whenever it is used—in the first place
because the proper treatment of the objects demands it, and, secondly,
because its very existence as a serviceable medium depends upon this
measure.
268—GRATINS
This culinary operation plays a sufficiently important part in the work
to warrant my detailing at least its leading points.
The various kinds of the order “Gratins” are (1) the Complete Gratin;
(2) the Rapid Gratin; (3) the Light Gratin; (4) Glazing, which is a
form of Rapid Gratin.
269—COMPLETE GRATIN
This is the first example of the series; it is that whose preparation
is longest and most tiresome; for its principal constituent, whatever
this is, must be completely cooked. Its cooking must moreover be
coincident with the reduction of the sauce, which is the base of the
gratin, and with the formation of the gratin proper, _i.e._, the
crimped crust which forms on the surface and is the result of the
combination of the sauce with the raspings and the butter, under the
direct influence of the heat.
In the preparation of complete gratin, two things must be taken into
account:—(1) The nature and size of the object to be treated, and
(2) the degree of heat which must be used in order that the cooking of
the object, the reduction of the sauce, and the formation of the gratin
may be effected simultaneously.
The base of complete gratin is almost invariably ordinary or Lenten
duxelle sauce (No. 223), in accordance with the requirements.
The object to be treated with the gratin is laid on a buttered
dish, surrounded with slices of raw mushrooms and chopped shallots,
and covered with duxelle sauce. The surface is then sprinkled with
raspings, and copiously moistened with melted butter. Should the piece
be large, the amount of sauce used will be proportionately greater, and
the reverse, of course, applies to medium or smaller sizes.
Take note of the following remarks in the making of complete gratins:—
1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object,
the latter would cook and the gratin form before the sauce could reach
the correct degree of consistence by means of reduction. Hence it
would be necessary to reduce the sauce still further on the stove, and
thereby give rise to steam which would soften the coating of the gratin.
2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the
cooking of the object had been effected, and, more sauce having to be
added, the resulting gratin would be uneven.
3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook,
the more moderate should be the heat used. Conversely, the smaller it
is, the fiercer should the fire be.
When withdrawing the gratin from the oven squeeze a few drops of
lemon-juice over it, and besprinkle it with chopped parsley.
270—RAPID GRATIN
Proceed as above, with duxelle sauce, but the products treated with
it, viz., meats, fish, or vegetables, are always cooked and warmed in
advance. All that is required, therefore, is to effect the formation of
the gratin as quickly as possible.
To do this, cover the object under treatment with the necessary
quantity of salt, besprinkle with raspings and butter, and set the
gratin to form in a fierce oven.
271—LIGHT GRATIN
This is proper to farinaceous products, such as macaroni, lazagnes,
noodles, gnocchi, &c., and consists of a combination of grated cheese,
raspings, and butter. In this case, again, the only end in view is the
formation of the _gratin_ coating, which must be evenly coloured, and
is the result of the cheese melting. A moderate heat is all that is
wanted for this kind of _gratin_.
Also considered as light _gratins_ are those which serve as the
complement of stuffed vegetables such as tomatoes, mushrooms,
egg-plant, and cucumber. With these the _gratin_ is composed of
raspings sprinkled with butter or oil, and it is placed in a more or
less fierce heat according to whether the vegetables have already been
cooked or partially cooked, or are quite raw.
272—GLAZINGS
These are of two kinds—they either consist of a heavily buttered sauce,
or they form from a sprinkling of cheese upon the sauce with which the
object to be glazed is covered.
In the first case, after having poured sauce over the object to be
treated, place the dish on another dish containing a little water.
This is to prevent the sauce decomposing and boiling. The greater the
quantity of butter used, the more intense will be the heat required, in
order that a slight golden film may form almost instantaneously.
In the second case, the sauce used is always a Mornay (No. 91). Cover
the object under treatment with the sauce, besprinkle with grated
cheese and melted butter, and place in fairly intense heat, so that a
slight golden crust may form almost immediately, this crust being the
result of the combined cheese and butter.
273—BLANCHINGS
The essentially unsuitable term blanchings is applied in the culinary
technology of France to three classes of operations which entirely
differ one from the other in the end they have in view.
1. The blanching of meats.
2. The blanching, or, better, the parboiling of certain vegetables.
3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality
amounts to a process of cooking.
_The blanching of meats_ obtains mostly in the case of calf’s head and
foot and the sweet-bread of veal, sheep’s and lambs’ trotters, and
lamb’s sweet-bread. These meats are first set to soak in cold, running
water until they have quite got rid of the blood with which they are
naturally saturated. They are then placed on the fire in a saucepan
containing enough cold water to abundantly cover them, and the water is
gradually brought to the boil.
For calf’s head or feet, boiling may last for fifteen or twenty
minutes; veal sweet-bread must not boil for more than ten or twelve
minutes; while lamb sweet-bread is withdrawn the moment the boil is
reached.
As soon as blanched, the meats are cooled in plenty of fresh water
before undergoing their final treatment.
_The blanching of cocks’ combs_ is exceptional in this, namely, that
after the combs have been cleansed of blood—that is to say, soaked in
cold water, they are placed on the fire in cold water, the temperature
of which must be carefully kept below 113° F. When this degree is
approached, take the saucepan off the fire and rub each comb with a
cloth, dusted with table-salt, in order to remove the skins; then cool
the combs with fresh water before cooking them.
Many people use the blanching process with meats intended for
“blanquette” or “fricassée.” I regard this procedure as quite
erroneous, as also the preliminary soaking in cold water.
If the meats or pieces of poultry intended for the above-mentioned
preparations be of a good quality (and no others should be used), they
need only be set to cook in cold water, or cold stock, and gradually
brought to the boil, being stirred repeatedly the while. The scum
formed should be carefully removed, and, in this way, perfectly white
meats and stock, with all their savour, are obtained.
As to meats or pieces of poultry of an inferior quality, no soaking
and no blanching can make good their defects. Whichever way they are
treated they remain dry, gray, and savourless. It is therefore simpler
and better to use only the finest quality goods.
An excellent proof of the futility of soaking and blanching meats
intended for “fricassées” and “blanquettes” lies in the fact that
these very meats, if of good quality, are always perfectly white when
they are braised, poëled, or roasted, notwithstanding the fact that
these three operations are less calculated to preserve their whiteness
than the kind of treatment they are subjected to in the case of
“blanquettes” and “fricassées.”
Mere routine alone can account for this practice of soaking and
blanching meats—a practice that is absolutely condemned by common sense.
The term “blanching” is wrongly applied to the cooking of green
vegetables, such as French beans, green peas, Brussels sprouts,
spinach, &c. The cooking of these, which is effected by means of
boiling salted water, ought really to be termed “à l’anglaise.” All the
details of the procedure, however, will be given when I deal with the
vegetables to which the latter apply.
Lastly, under the name of “blanching,” there exists another operation
which consists in partly cooking certain vegetables in plenty of water,
in order to rid them of any bitter or pungent flavour they may possess.
The time allowed for this blanching varies according to the age of the
vegetables, but when the latter are young and in season, it amounts to
little more than a mere scalding.
Blanching is chiefly resorted to for lettuce, chicory, endives,
celery, artichokes, cabbages, and the green vegetables; carrots,
turnips, and small onions when they are out of season. In respect of
vegetable-marrows, cucumbers, and chow-chow, blanching is often left to
the definite cooking process, which should then come under the head of
the “à l’anglaise” cooking.
After the process of blanching, the vegetables I have just enumerated
are always cooled—that is to say, steeped in cold water until they are
barely lukewarm. They are then left to drain on a sieve, previous to
undergoing the final cooking process to which they are best suited,
this generally being braising.
=6. Vegetables and Garnishes=
_Various Preparations._
274—THE TREATMENT OF DRY VEGETABLES
It is wrong to soak dry vegetables. If they are of good quality, and
the produce of the year, they need only be put into a saucepan with
enough cold water to completely cover them, and with one oz. of salt
per five quarts of water.
Set to boil gently, skim, add the aromatic garnish, quartered carrots,
onions, with or without garlic cloves, and a faggot, and set to cook
gently with lid on.
_Remarks._—If the vegetables used are old or inferior in quality, they
might be put to soak in soft water; but this only long enough to swell
them slightly, _i.e._, about one and one-half hours.
A prolonged soaking of dry vegetables may give rise to incipient
germination, and this, by impairing the principles of the vegetables,
depreciates the value of the food, and may even cause some harm to the
consumer.
275—BRAISED VEGETABLES
Vegetables to be braised must be first blanched, cooled, pared, and
strung.
Garnish the bottom of a saucepan with blanched pork-rind, sliced
carrots and onions, and a faggot, and cover the sides of the utensil
with thin slices of bacon. Lay the vegetables upon the prepared litter,
and leave them to sweat in the oven for about ten minutes with lid on.
The object of this oven-sweating is to expel the water. Now moisten
enough to cover with white stock, and set to cook gently.
This done, drain, remove string, and cut to the shape required. Lay
them in a sautépan, and, if they are to be served soon, cover them with
their reduced stock from which the grease has been removed.
If they are prepared in advance, simply put them aside in suitable
basins, cover them with their cooking-liquor, which should be strained
over them, boiling, and without its grease removed, and cover with
buttered paper.
=Adjuncts to Braised Vegetables=
According to the case, the adjunct is either the braising-liquor,
reduced and with all grease removed, or the same completed by means of
an addition of meat-glaze.
Occasionally, it may be the braising-liquor slightly thickened with
half-glaze and finished with butter and the juice of a lemon.
276—LEASON OF GREEN VEGETABLES WITH BUTTER
First thoroughly drain the vegetables and toss them over the fire for a
few minutes, in order to completely rid them of their moisture. Season
according to the kind of vegetable; add the butter away from the fire,
and slightly toss, rolling the saucepan meanwhile on the stove with the
view of effecting the leason by means of the mixing of the butter with
the treated vegetables.
277—LEASON OF VEGETABLES WITH CREAM
Vegetables to be treated in this way must be kept somewhat firm. After
having thoroughly drained them, put them into a saucepan with enough
boiling fresh cream to well moisten without covering them.
Finish their cooking process in the cream, stirring occasionally the
while.
When the cream is almost entirely reduced, finish, away from the fire,
with a little butter.
The leason may be slightly stiffened, if necessary, by means of a few
tablespoonfuls of cream sauce.
278—VEGETABLE CREAMS AND PURÉES
Purées of dry and farinaceous vegetables may be obtained by rubbing the
latter through a sieve.
Put the purée into a sautépan, and dry it over a brisk fire, adding one
and one-half oz. of butter per pint of purée; then add milk or cream in
small quantities at a time, until the purée has reached the required
degree of consistence.
For purées of aqueous vegetables, such as French beans, cauliflowers,
celery, &c., a quarter of their volume of mashed potatoes should be
added to them in order to effect their leason.
In the case of vegetable creams, substitute for the thickening of
mashed potatoes an equivalent quantity of succulent and stiff Béchamel
sauce.
279—GARNISHES
In cookery, although garnishes only play a minor part, they are,
nevertheless, very important, for, besides being the principal
accompaniments to dishes, they are very often the adornment thereof,
while it frequently happens that their harmonious arrangement
considerably helps to throw the beauty of a fine joint or bird into
relief.
A garnish may consist of one or more products. Be this as it may, its
name, as a rule, distinctly denotes, in a word, what it is and how it
is made.
In any case, it should always bear some relation to the piece it
accompanies, either in the constituents of its preparation or with
regard to the size of the piece constituting the dish.
I merely add that, since the constituents of garnishes are strictly
denoted by the name the latter bear, any addition of products foreign
to their nature would be a grave mistake. Likewise, the omission of any
constituent is to be avoided, as the garnish would thereby be out of
keeping with its specified character.
Only in very exceptional circumstances should any change of this kind
be allowed to take place.
The constituents of garnishes are supplied by vegetables, farinaceous
products, quenelles of all kinds, cocks’ combs and kidneys, truffles
and mushrooms, plain or stuffed olives, molluscs (mussels or oysters),
shell-fish (crayfish, shrimps, lobster, &c.), butcher’s supplies, such
as lamb’s sweet-bread, calf’s brains, and calf’s spine-marrow.
As a rule, garnishes are independent of the dish itself—that is to say,
they are prepared entirely apart. At other times they are mixed with
it, playing the double part of garnish and condimentary principle, as
in the case of Matelotes, Compotes, Civets, &c.
Vegetables for garnishing are fashioned and treated in accordance with
the use and shape implied by the name of the dish, which should always
be the operator’s guide in this respect.
The farinaceous ones, the molluscs and shell-fish, undergo the
customary preparation.
I have already described (Chapter X.) the preparation of quenelles and
forcemeats for garnishing. Other recipes which have the same purpose
will be treated in their respective order.
PART II
RECIPES AND MODES OF PROCEDURE
In Part I. of this work I treated of the general principles on
which the science of cookery is founded, and the leading operations
constituting the basis of the work.
In Part II. I shall proceed from the general to the particular—in other
words, I shall set forth the recipes of every dish I touch upon, its
method of preparation, and its constituent parts.
With the view of making reference as easy as possible, without
departing from a certain logical order, I have adopted the method of
classifying these recipes in accordance with the position the dishes
they represent hold in the ordinary menu, and thus, starting with
the hors-d’œuvres, I go straight on to the dessert. I was compelled,
however, to alter my plan in the case of eggs, which never appear on
the menu of a dinner save in Lent.
These I have therefore placed immediately after the hors-d’œuvres,
which, like eggs, should only be served at luncheons, for reasons I
shall explain later.
It will be seen that I have placed the Savouries before the Entremets,
instead of after the Ices, as is customary in England. My reason for
this apparent anomaly is that I consider it a positive gastronomical
heresy to eat fish, meats, fowl-remains, &c., after delicate Entremets
and Ices, the subtle flavour of the latter, which form such an
agreeable item in a dinner, being quite destroyed by the violent
seasoning of the former.
Moreover, the very pretext brought forward in support of this practice,
so erroneous from the gastronomical standpoint, namely, “that after
a good dinner it is necessary to serve something strange and highly
seasoned, in order to whet the diner’s thirst,” is its own condemnation.
For, if appetite is satiated and thirst is quenched, it follows that
the consumer has taken all that is necessary. Therefore, anything more
that he may be stimulated to take will only amount to excess, and
excess in gastronomy, as in everything else, is a fault that can find
no excuse.
At all events, I could agree to no more than the placing of the
Savouries before mild Entremets, and, even so, the former would have
to consist of light, dry preparations, very moderately seasoned, such
as Paillettes with Parmesan, various kinds of dry biscuits, and small
tartlets garnished with cheese _soufflé_.
In short, if I expressed my plain opinion on the matter, I should
advise the total suppression of Savouries in a dinner.
CHAPTER XI
HORS-D’ŒUVRES
=General Remarks=
The preparations described hereafter all belong to the order of cold
hors-d’œuvres. I did not deem it necessary to touch upon the hot kind,
for, apart from the fact that these are very seldom served in England,
at least under the head of hors-d’œuvres, they are mostly to be found
either among the hot Entrées or the Savouries proper.
Generally speaking, hors-d’œuvres should only form part of a meal that
does not comprise soup, while the rule of serving them at luncheons
only ought to be looked upon as absolute.
It is true that restaurants à la carte deliberately deviate from this
rule, but it should be remembered, in their case, that, in addition
to the fact that “hors-d’œuvres de luxe,” such as caviare, oysters,
plovers’ and lapwings’ eggs, &c., are mostly in question, they also
find the use of hors-d’œuvres expedient if only as a means of whiling
away the customers’ time during the preparation of the various dishes
that may have been ordered.
Moreover, the hors-d’œuvres enumerated are not subject to the
same objection as those composed of fish, salads, and _marinaded_
vegetables. The use of cold hors-d’œuvres in these special cases is
thus, to a certain extent, justified, but it is nevertheless to be
regretted that an exception of this kind should degenerate into a
habit, and that it should be made to prevail under circumstances which,
in themselves, are insufficient warrant for the abuse.
In Russia it is customary to have a sideboard in a room adjoining
the dining-room, dressed with all kinds of special pastries, smoked
fish, and other products, and these the diners partake of, standing,
together with strong liqueurs, before taking their seats at the table.
The general name given to the items on the sideboard is “Zakouski.”
Caterers and hotel-keepers in different parts of the world, more
zealous than judicious, introduced the custom of the zakouski without
allowing for the differences of race, which are due, to some extent, to
the influence of climate; and at first, probably owing to everybody’s
enthusiasm for things Russian, the innovation enjoyed a certain vogue,
in spite of the fact that, in many cases, the dishes served resembled
the Zakouski in name alone, and consisted of cold and very ordinary
hors-d’œuvres, served at the dining-table itself.
At length the absurdity of investing such common things as
hors-d’œuvres with an exotic title began to be perceived, and nowadays
the occasions are rare when the Russian term is to be found on a menu;
nevertheless, the custom unfortunately survives.
For my own part, I regard cold hors-d’œuvres as quite unnecessary in a
dinner; I even consider them counter to the dictates of common sense,
and they are certainly prejudicial to the flavour of the soup that
follows.
At the most, caviare might be tolerated, the nutty taste of which,
when it is quite fresh, can but favourably impress the consumer’s
palate, as also certain fine oysters, provided they be served with
very dry Rhine wine or white Bordeaux. But I repeat that hors-d’œuvres
consisting of any kind of fish, salad, _marinaded_ vegetables, &c.,
should be strictly proscribed from the items of a dinner.
The custom of serving cold hors-d’œuvres at lunch is, on the contrary,
not only traditional, but indispensable, and their varied combinations,
thrown into relief by tasteful and proper arrangement, besides lending
a cheerful aspect to the table, beguile the consumer’s attention and
fancy from the very moment of his entering the dining-room. It has been
said, with reason, that soups should foretell the dominant note of the
whole dinner, and cold hors-d’œuvres should in the same way reveal that
of a luncheon.
Possibly it was with a sense of the importance of hors-d’œuvres, from
this standpoint, that their preparation was transferred from the
_office_ (the exclusive concern whereof used, formerly, to be the
hors-d’œuvres) to the kitchen.
The results of this change manifested themselves immediately in
prodigious variations and transformations of the hors-d’œuvres, both
in respect of their preparation and dishing-up, so much so, indeed,
that perhaps in no other department of culinary art has there been such
progress of recent years.
Their variety is infinite, and it would be impossible to compute, even
approximately, the number of combinations an ingenious artist could
effect in their preparation, seeing that the latter embraces almost
every possible use of every conceivable esculent product.
Well may it be said that a good hors-d’œuvrier is a man to be prized in
any kitchen, for, although his duties do not by any means rank first
in importance, they nevertheless demand in him who performs them the
possession of such qualities as are rarely found united in one person,
viz., reliable and experienced taste, originality, keen artistic sense,
and professional knowledge.
The hors-d’œuvrier should be able to produce something sightly and good
out of very little, and the beauty and attractiveness of a hors-d’œuvre
should depend to a much greater degree upon his work and the judicious
treatment of his material than upon the nature of the latter.
=Preparation for Hors-d’Œuvres=
280—BUTTERS AND CREAMS
The seasoning of butters for hors-d’œuvres is effected when dishing
them up. When prepared in advance, they ought to be placed in a bowl
and put aside somewhere in the cool, covered with a piece of clean
paper.
281—ANCHOVY BUTTER
Wash twelve or fifteen anchovies in cold water, and dry them
thoroughly. Remove the fillets from the bones, pound them smoothly with
four oz. of butter, rub the whole through a fine sieve, smooth it with
a spoon, and put it aside.
282—CAVIARE BUTTER
Pound three oz. of pressed caviare with four oz. of butter, and rub
through a fine sieve.
283—SHRIMP BUTTER
Pound four oz. of shrimps with four oz. of butter; rub through a fine
sieve first, then through muslin, after having softened the preparation.
This may also be made from the shelled tails of shrimps, which process,
though it is easier, does not yield a butter of such delicate taste as
the former.
284—CURRY BUTTER
Soften four oz. of butter in a bowl, and add thereto sufficient
curry-powder to ensure a decided taste. The exact quantity of curry
cannot be prescribed, since the quality of the latter entirely governs
its apportionment.
285—CRAYFISH BUTTER
Cook the crayfish with _mirepoix_, as for Bisque. Finely pound the
shells after having removed the tails, and add thereto four oz. of
butter per two oz.; rub through a fine sieve first, then through muslin.
N.B.—The whole crayfish may be pounded, but the tails are usually laid
aside with a view to supplying the garnish of the toasts for which the
butter is intended.
286—RED-HERRING BUTTER
Take the fillets of three red-herrings; remove the skins, and pound
finely with three oz. of butter. Rub through a fine sieve.
287—LOBSTER BUTTER
Pound four oz. of lobster trimmings and spawn, and a little of the
coral with four oz. of butter. Rub through a fine sieve.
288—MILT BUTTER
Poach four oz. of milt in a covered and buttered sauté-pan, with the
juice of half a lemon; pound in the mortar, and add to the preparation
its weight of butter and a teaspoonful of mustard. Rub through a fine
sieve.
289—MONTPELLIER BUTTER (GREEN BUTTER)
See Compound Butter for Sauces (No. 153).
290—HORSE-RADISH BUTTER
Grate two oz. of horse-radish and pound with four oz. of butter. Rub
through a fine sieve.
291—SMOKED SALMON BUTTER
Finely pound four oz. of smoked salmon with as much butter, and rub
through a fine sieve.
292—PAPRIKA BUTTER
Soften four oz. of butter in a bowl, and mix therewith a small
teaspoonful of paprika infused in a few drops of white wine or
consommé, with a view to strengthening the colour of the paprika.
293—PIMENTO BUTTER
Pound four oz. of preserved or freshly-cooked capsicum; add as much
butter thereto, and rub through a fine sieve.
294—CAVIARE CREAM
Pound four oz. of preserved caviare and add thereto, little by little,
two tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of softened butter. Rub
through a fine sieve, and finish the preparation by an addition of
three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream.
N.B.—This cream and those that follow often take the place of the
butters in the preparation of hors-d’œuvres. The addition of previously
well-softened butter to these creams is necessary in order to make them
sufficiently consistent when they cool.
295—LOBSTER CREAM
Pound four oz. of lobster trimmings, spawn, and coral, and add thereto
three tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of softened butter.
Rub through a sieve, and complete the preparation with whisked cream,
as above.
296—GAME CREAM
Pound four oz. of cold, cooked game-meat with three tablespoonfuls of
fresh cream and two oz. of softened butter. Rub through a sieve, and
finish the preparation with three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream.
297—SMOKED SALMON CREAM
Finely pound four oz. of smoked salmon, and add thereto, little by
little, three tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of softened
butter. Rub the whole through a sieve, and finish with an addition of
three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream.
298—TUNNY CREAM
Finely pound four oz. of tunny in oil, and finish the cream similarly
to that of the Smoked Salmon.
299—CHICKEN CREAM
Finely pound four oz. of cold fowl (white parts only) and add thereto
two tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of softened butter. Rub
through a sieve, and finish with three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream.
N.B.—This cream ought to be made and seasoned with salt immediately
before being served.
299a—MUSTARD SAUCE WITH CREAM
Put three tablespoonfuls of mustard in a bowl with a little salt,
pepper, and a few drops of lemon-juice. Mix the whole and add, little
by little, the necessary quantity of very fresh cream.
HORS-D’ŒUVRES
300—ANCHOVY ALLUMETTES
Roll some puff-paste trimmings into rectangular strips two and one-half
inches wide and one-eighth inch thick. Spread thereon a thin coating of
fish stuffing, finished with anchovy butter; lay the anchovy fillets,
prepared beforehand, lengthwise on this stuffing, and cut into pieces
about one inch wide. Place the pieces on a baking-tray, and set to bake
in the oven for twelve minutes.
301—ANCHOVY FILLETS
Cut each halved anchovy, which should have been previously _marinaded_
in oil, into two or three little fillets. Place them across each
other in a hors-d’œuvre dish, after the manner of a lattice; garnish
with chopped parsley and the chopped white and yolk of a hard-boiled
egg, alternating the colours. Put a few capers on the fillets, and
besprinkle moderately with oil. Anchovy fillets may also be served on a
salad of _ciseled_ lettuce, for the sake of variety.
302—FRESH MARINADED ANCHOVIES
Take a few live anchovies, cleanse them, and put them in salt for two
hours. This done, plunge them in smoking oil, where they may remain
only just long enough to stiffen. Drain, place them in a moderately
acid _marinade_, and serve on a hors-d’œuvre dish with a little
_marinade_.
303—ROLLED ANCHOVIES
Turn some fine olives and stuff them with anchovy butter; when quite
cold, encircle them with a ring of anchovy fillet, kept whole.
304—ANCHOVY MEDALLIONS
Cut into discs, about the size of half-a-crown, potatoes boiled in
water or baked beetroot. Cover their edges with fine anchovy fillets
_marinaded_ in oil, and garnish their centres either with caviare,
chopped hard-boiled egg, or milt purée, &c.
305—ANCHOVY PAUPIETTES
Prepare some thick slices of _blanched_ and _marinaded_ cucumber, about
the size of half-crowns, and hollow their centres slightly. Place
rings composed of the fillets of anchovies in oil upon these slices,
and fill up their centres with tunny cream or the cream of any fish or
shell-fish.
306—ANCHOVY WITH PIMENTOS
Prepare some anchovy fillets in oil, and place them across each other
in a lattice, using fillets of pimento alternately with those of the
anchovies. Garnish in the same way as for anchovy fillets, _i.e._, with
the chopped white and yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and chopped parsley.
307—NORWEGIAN ANCHOVIES OR KILKIS
These are found ready-prepared on the market. Place them on a
hors-d’œuvre dish with some of their liquor, and without any garnish.
308—SMOKED EEL
Serve it plain, cut into fillets.
309—EEL WITH WHITE WINE AND PAPRIKA
Divide the eel into lengths of three and one-half inches; poach these
in exactly the same way as for _matelote_, but with white wine and
paprika seasoning. Let them cool in their cooking-liquor; cut the
pieces lengthwise into large fillets, and cover them with the liquor
after all grease has been removed therefrom and it has been clarified
and cleared.
310—EEL AU VERT
Stew in butter two oz. of sorrel, one-quarter oz. of parsley, as much
chervil, a few tarragon leaves, a little fresh pimpernel, two oz. of
tender nettle, one-quarter oz. of savory, a sprig of green thyme, and a
few sage-leaves, all of which must be _ciseled_. Remove the skins from
two lbs. of small eels, suppress the heads, and cut into pieces two
inches long. Put these pieces with the herbs, stiffen them well, and
add one pint of white wine and a little salt and pepper. Set to cook
for ten minutes, thicken with the yolks of four eggs and a few drops of
lemon-juice, and leave to cool in a bowl. This preparation of eel is
served very cold.
311—EEL AU VERT A LA FLAMANDE
Remove the skin from, and cut into small pieces, two lbs. of small
eels. Stiffen the pieces in butter, moisten with one pint of beer,
season, and set to cook for ten minutes. Add the herbs enumerated
above, raw and roughly chopped. Once more set to cook for seven or
eight minutes, thicken with fecula if the sauce is too thin, and
transfer the whole to a bowl to cool. Serve very cold.
312—ARTICHOKES A LA GRECQUE
Take some very small and tender artichokes. Pare them, cut the leaves
short, and plunge them into a large saucepan of acidulated water. Set
to parboil for eight or ten minutes, drain, cool in fresh water, and
drain once more in a sieve.
For twenty artichokes prepare the following liquor:—one pint of water,
one-quarter pint of oil, a little salt, the juice of three lemons, a
few fennel and coriander seeds, some peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, and
a bay-leaf. Set to boil, add the parboiled artichokes, and leave to
cook for twenty minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
Serve these artichokes very cold upon a hors-d’œuvre dish, accompanied
by a few tablespoonfuls of their cooking-liquor.
313—SMALL ARTICHOKE-BOTTOMS
Remove the leaves and the hearts of some little artichokes; trim their
remaining bases, and plunge each as soon as trimmed into acidulated
water lest they blacken. Cook them “au blanc” (No. 167), and leave them
to cool in their liquor.
Drain them well, dry them, place them in a pan, and _marinade_ them for
twenty minutes in oil and lemon-juice. This done, garnish them, either
with a _salpicon_ thickened with mayonnaise, a milt or other purée, a
small _macédoine_, or a vegetable salad, &c. Place on a hors-d’œuvre
dish with a garnish of parsley sprays.
314—BARQUETTES
These are a kind of small Croustades with indented edges, made in very
small, boat-shaped moulds, and they may be garnished in any conceivable
way.
As their preparation is the same as that of Tartlets, see the latter
(No. 387); also refer to “Frivolities” (No. 350).
315—SMOKED HAMBURG BEEF
Cut it into very thin slices; divide these up into triangles, and roll
the latter into the shape of cones. The slices may also be served flat.
Dish up at the last moment, and serve very cold.
316—CANAPÉS AND TOAST
In the matter of hors-d’œuvres, the two above names have the same
meaning. The preparation consists of small slices of the crumb of
bread, about one-quarter inch thick, slightly toasted and with a
garnish on one of their sides. The garnish is subject to the taste
of the consumer, the resources at the disposal of the cook, or the
latter’s fancy, which may here be fully indulged.
But the garnish, par excellence, for Canapés or Toast, is fresh butter
combined with a fine mince of white roast chicken-meat, the meat of
shell-fish or fish, or cheese, &c., as I pointed out above under the
butters for hors-d’œuvres.
Whatever be the garnish of Canapés or Toast, and even when it would
be unreasonable to let butter form a part of it, as, for example, in
the case of _marinaded_ fish, anchovies, filleted herring, &c., it is
always best to put plenty of butter on the pieces of toast while they
are still hot, with the view of keeping them soft.
When the garnish consists of a purée, _i.e._, a compound butter, I
should advise the use of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, for
laying the preparation upon the toast. This method is both clean and
expeditious, and lends itself to any fanciful arrangement which the
varying shape of the toast may suggest.
The principal shapes given to the toast are as follows: round, square,
rectangular, oval, triangular, crescented, star-like, crossed, &c.
They should never exceed one and one-half inches in diameter, and a
corresponding size in the other shapes.
I shall only indicate here a few kinds of specially garnished toast,
and leave the thousand and one other kinds for the operator himself to
discover.
317—ANCHOVY TOAST
Make the pieces of toast oval. Cover with anchovy butter, and place
thereon, lattice-wise, some fillets of anchovy cut to the length of
the toast. Garnish the pieces of toast all round with the separately
chopped whites and yolks of hard-boiled eggs, alternating the colours.
318—CAVIARE TOAST
Make the pieces of toast round; cover with caviare butter; garnish
the edges with a thread of softened butter, laid on by means of a
piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Put fresh caviare in the centre.
319—SHRIMP TOAST
Make the pieces of toast round; cover with shrimp butter, and garnish
by means of a border composed of shelled shrimps’ tails with a caper in
the centre.
320—CITY TOAST
Make the pieces of toast round, and cover with a thick coating of
the following preparation, viz.:—Four oz. of fresh butter, softened;
two oz. of fresh Gruyère and two oz. of Parmesan, both grated; a
dessertspoonful of cream, and a little salt and cayenne. Cover this
preparation with two half-discs, which when juxtaposed are equal in
circumference to the round of the toast. The half-discs should be cut
respectively from a Lyons sausage and a Gruyère cheese; both should be
thin, and equal in thickness.
321—DANISH TOAST
Prepare some slices of brown bread, equal in thickness to the toast;
but only heat, do not grill them. Spread some horse-radish butter over
them, and cover with alternate strips of smoked salmon, caviare, and
filleted herrings _marinaded_ in white wine. Now stamp the garnished
slices with a sharp fancy-cutter, the shape of which is optional.
322—CRAYFISH TOAST
Make the pieces of toast crescented; cover with crayfish butter,
deck the edges with a string of softened butter, and garnish with a
crayfish’s tail, cut into two lengthwise. The two halves of the tail
should be placed in the middle of each crescent, close together and
with their thickest side innermost.
323—TONGUE TOAST
Prepare some slices of crumb of bread, equal in thickness, and
toast them. Now garnish with a coating, half as thick as the slices
themselves, of mustard butter. Cover the butter with thin slices of
very red, salted tongue, and let the butter harden.
Stamp out the pieces of toast with a star-shaped fancy-cutter, which
should be dipped from time to time in boiling water in order to
facilitate the operation. Finally, make a rosette of mustard butter in
the middle of each piece of toast.
324—LUCILE TOAST
Make the pieces of toast oval, cover with mustard butter, and border
their edges with a line of finely chopped and very red tongue. Garnish
the middle of each with chopped white chicken-meat, and in the centre
drop a pinch of chopped truffle.
325—VARIOUS CAROLINES
These are very small éclairs of _pâte à choux_ without sugar. When
quite cold, garnish them inside with a purée, either of tongue, fowl,
game, or foie gras, &c., then coat them thinly with a chaud-froid sauce
in keeping with the purée forming the inside garnish.
When the sauce has cooled, glaze it, by means of a brush, with a little
cold melted jelly, with a view to making it glossy.
N.B.—Carolines are also used as a garnish for certain cold
preparations, aspics, &c.
326—CAVIARE AND BLINIS
Caviare is undoubtedly the richest and most delicate of hors-d’œuvres,
granted, of course, that it be of good quality and consist of large,
light-coloured, and transparent particles. Its price is always high,
owing to the difficulty attending its importation. It is served very
simply, either in a silver timbale or in its original receptacle,
surrounded with ice, and accompanied by a dish of Blinis, whereof the
preparation is as follows:—
Make a thin paste with one oz. of yeast and one lb. of sifted flour
diluted with one pint of lukewarm milk. Leave this paste to ferment for
two hours in a lukewarm atmosphere, and then add thereto one-half lb.
of flour, the yolks of four eggs, a pinch of salt, one-half pint of
tepid milk; mix the whole without letting it acquire any body, and
finally add the whites of four eggs, whisked. Let the preparation
ferment for half an hour, and, when about to serve, cook the Blinis
quickly, after the manner of pancakes, in special little omelet-pans.
Dish them up very hot on a napkin.
Failing fresh caviare, the pressed and salted kind may also be used
for hors-d’œuvres. Some cooks serve finely-chopped onions with fresh
caviare, but a worse practice could not be imagined. Fresh caviare, the
flavour of which is perfect, does not need any supplementary condiment.
327—CELERY “A LA BONNE-FEMME”
Take equal quantities of very tender celery sticks and peeled,
quartered and cored russet apples. Finely mince the celery and apples,
season with a mustard-and-cream sauce, and place on a hors-d’œuvre dish.
328—CELERY A LA GRECQUE
Select a few hearts of celery, very equal; trim, wash, and parboil
them in acidulated water, as directed under “artichokes à la Grecque.”
Prepare the cooking-liquor from the same ingredients, using the same
quantities thereof, and cook similarly.
Serve very cold on a crystal hors-d’œuvre dish with a portion of the
cooking-liquor.
329—CELERIAC
Quarter, peel, and cut the vegetable in _julienne_ fashion. Prepare the
seasoning with mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar; add the _julienne_
of Celeriac and mix thoroughly. When the roots are quite soft, a
seasoning consisting of mustard-and-cream sauce is preferable.
329a—MARINADED CÈPES
Select some very small and fresh _cèpes_. Parboil them for eight
minutes, drain and cool them, put them into a basin, and cover them
with the boiling _marinade_ after having passed the latter through a
strainer.
_Marinade for Two lbs. of Cèpes._—Put into a saucepan one pint of
vinegar, one-third pint of oil, a crushed clove of garlic, a fragment
of bay, and a little thyme, six peppercorns, a pinch of coriander, a
few fennel leaves, and a small root of parsley. Set to boil for five
minutes. Leave the mushrooms to _marinade_ for five or six hours before
using them.
329b—CHERRIES A L’ALLEMANDE
Take five lbs. of Morella cherries, put them into a bottle, as in the
case of cherry brandy, and add thereto three cloves, a fragment of
cinnamon, some grated nutmeg, and a sprig of tarragon. Pour over the
cherries two quarts of vinegar, boiled with one-half lb. of brown sugar
and properly cooled. Cork the bottle, and leave the fruit to macerate
for a fortnight.
329c—BRAINS A LA ROBERT
Cook well-cleansed sheep’s or lamb’s brains in _court-bouillon_, and
cool. Divide them up into thin and regular slices, and place them on a
hors-d’œuvre dish. Rub the brain remains through a fine sieve, combine
the resulting purée with a mustard-and-cream sauce, and add thereto a
fine _julienne_ of the white part only of celery.
Cover the slices of brain with the sauce.
329d—CUCUMBER A LA DANOISE
Cut the cucumber to the shape of small _cassolettes_ or _barquettes_,
_blanch_ and _marinade_ them.
Garnish with a preparation composed of a purée of salmon mixed with
fillets of herring and chopped, hard-boiled eggs in equal quantities.
Sprinkle a little chopped horse-radish over the garnish.
330—STUFFED CUCUMBERS
Prepare them as above, in the shape of small _barquettes_ or
_cassolettes_. Cook them, at the same time keeping them firm;
_marinade_ them for twenty minutes, when they are quite cold, in oil
and vinegar, and garnish them, by means of a piping-bag, either with
a thick purée, some mince-meat thickened with mayonnaise, or a small
vegetable _macédoine_, &c.
331—CUCUMBER SALAD
Carefully peel the cucumbers, cut them into two lengthwise, remove
their seeds, and mince finely. Place them in a bowl, sprinkle with
table-salt, and leave them to exude their vegetable moisture for
twenty-five minutes. This done, drain them, press them in a towel,
season with pepper, oil, and vinegar, and add some chopped chervil.
332—CUCUMBER AND PIMENTO SALAD
Select some very fresh, medium-sized cucumbers, peel them, and cut them
into pieces two inches in length. Cut these pieces spirally, beginning
at their peripheries and working towards their centres; then cut them
diametrally, so as to produce curved strips of the vegetable. Add an
equal quantity of pimentos cut into strips, and season as in the case
of cucumber salad.
333—YORK CONES
Cut slices from a York ham as thinly as possible, and trim them to the
shape of triangles. Roll the triangles into cones, and garnish their
insides (by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe) with any
butter or cream. (See Nos. 280 to 299.)
334—TONGUE CONES
Proceed as for York Cones.
335—MOULDED CREAMS
Prepare a hors-d’œuvre cream in accordance with any one of the recipes
(Nos. 294 to 299). Put this cream into very small, slightly-oiled, and
ornamented moulds, and leave it to set in the cool or on ice. Empty
the moulds, at the moment of dishing up, either directly upon a dish,
on tartlets garnished with a purée in keeping with the cream, or on
toast. With these moulded creams, endless varieties of delicate and
recommendable little hors-d’œuvres may be prepared, while in their
preparation the moulds used in pastry for “petits fours” may serve a
useful purpose.
336—SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS
Get these very fresh and serve them on boat-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes,
arranging them so that they overlap one another. Either garnish the
middle of the dishes with curled-leaf parsley, or lay the crustacean
directly upon parsley.
337—DUCHESSES
This hors-d’œuvre is almost equivalent to the Carolines (No. 325),
except that the shape of the Duchesses is that of little _choux_, about
the size of a pigeon’s egg, and that, as a rule, they are merely glazed
with some melted jelly, and not covered with a chaud-froid sauce.
Sprinkle them with chopped pistachios, and serve them very cold on
ornamented dish-papers.
338—NANTUA DUCHESSES
Stuff the little _choux_, referred to above, with crayfish purée, and
sprinkle them, again and again, with cold, melted jelly, in order to
cover them with a transparent film.
339—DUCHESSES A LA REINE
Stuff the little _choux_ with a purée of fowl with cream. Glaze with
jelly, as above, and sprinkle some very black, finely-chopped truffles
over the jelly.
340—DUCHESSES A LA SULTANE
Stuff the little _choux_ with a purée of fowl, completed with pistachio
butter. Glaze with jelly, and sprinkle a little chopped pistachio upon
each little _chou_.
341—CAVIARE DUCHESSES
Stuff with fresh caviare or caviare cream. Glaze with jelly and serve
iced.
342—SMOKED-SALMON DUCHESSES
Stuff the little _choux_ with a purée of smoked salmon and butter, and
glaze them with a maigre jelly.
343—NORWEGIAN DUCHESSES
Stuff the _choux_ with a purée of Kilkis and butter, and glaze with
jelly.
344—KAROLY ECLAIRS
These are little éclairs stuffed with a purée made from the entrails of
woodcock with champagne. The purée is buttered and slightly seasoned.
Cover the éclairs with a brown chaud-froid sauce, mask them with game
jelly, and serve them, iced, on ornamented dish-papers.
345—CRAYFISH EN BUISSON
Prepare them in accordance with the recipes “à la nage” or “à la
marinière,” and serve them very cold.
346—MARINADED SMELTS
Fry some well-dried and floured smelts in oil; as soon as this is done,
put them in a deep dish or a bowl. Add to the oil, per pint (which
quantity should be allowed for every two lbs. of the fish), eight
unpeeled garlic-cloves, an onion, and a carrot cut into thin, round
slices, all of which vegetables should be slightly fried. Drain off
the oil, moisten with one-quarter pint of vinegar and as much water,
and season with a little salt, two small pimentos, a small bay-leaf,
a sprig of thyme, and a few parsley stalks. Dip the smelts for twelve
minutes in this _marinade_, and transfer them to the dish, where they
may be left to _marinade_ for twenty-four hours.
Serve very cold with a portion of the _marinade_.
347—FENNEL A LA GRECQUE
Same process as for artichokes and celery à la Grecque.
348—FRESH FIGS
Place them on a layer of very green leaves, and surround them with
broken ice.
349—FOIE GRAS
If in the form of a sausage, cut it into thin slices. If potted, shape
it into little shells, after the manner in which butter is sometimes
served, only a little smaller. In all cases serve it iced, and as soon
as it is ready.
350—FRIVOLITIES
I adopted the above term for those small, light, and elegant little
preparations, the radical types whereof are _barquettes_ and tartlets,
which often take the place of hors-d’œuvres on a menu. The term seems
plain, clear, and explicit, and no other could denote more happily this
series of trifles which constitute mere gewgaws of the dining-table.
351—FROGS OR NYMPHS A L’AURORE
For various reasons, I thought it best, in the past, to substitute the
mythological name “Nymphs” for the more vulgar term “Frogs” on menus,
and the former has been universally adopted, more particularly in
reference to the following “Chaud-froid à l’Aurore”:—
Poach the frogs’ legs in an excellent white-wine _court-bouillon_. When
cooled, trim them properly, dry them thoroughly in a piece of fine
linen, and steep them, one after the other, in a chaud-froid sauce
of fish with paprika, the tint of which should be golden. This done,
arrange the treated legs on a layer of champagne jelly, which should
have set beforehand on the bottom of a square, silver dish or crystal
bowl. Now lay some chervil _pluches_ and tarragon leaves between the
legs in imitation of water-grasses, and cover the whole with champagne
jelly to counterfeit the effect of water.
Send the dish to the table, set in a block of ice, fashioned as fancy
may suggest.
352—SALAD OF FILLETED SALTED HERRINGS
Remove the fillets whole; take off the skins; set to soak and then trim
them. Dish, and cover them with the following sauce:—Add the purée of
eight soft roes, moistened with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, to four
tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise. Season with onion, parsley, chervil,
chives, and tarragon, all finely chopped; flavour moderately with
cayenne.
353—FRESH HERRINGS MARINADED IN WHITE WINE
For twelve herrings, put one pint of white wine into a saucepan, with
one-quarter pint of vinegar, an onion cut into thin slices, half a
carrot cut into grooved roundels, a faggot, the necessary salt, and a
few peppercorns. Set to boil gently for twenty minutes.
Place the cleaned herrings in a sauté-pan, pour the boiling _marinade_
upon them, and let them poach for fifteen minutes.
Serve them very cold with the _marinade_, the roundels of carrot, and
thin strips of onion.
354—LUCAS HERRINGS
Raise the fillets from fine salted herrings, soak them first in cold
water, and then in milk for an hour.
Prepare a sauce as follows:—Beat up the yolks of two eggs in a bowl
with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of mustard; add five
tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar, proceeding as in the case
of mayonnaise, and complete with shallots and one dessertspoonful of
chopped chervil and gherkins. Season with cayenne, immerse the drained
and dried fillets of herrings in this sauce, and send them to the table
on a hors-d’œuvre dish.
355—HERRINGS A LA LIVONIENNE
Take some fine salted herrings’ fillets, clean them, and cut them into
dice. Place these in a bowl, and add thereto, in equal quantities,
some cold, boiled potatoes and russet apples cut into dice, parsley,
chervil, and chopped fennel and tarragon. Season with oil and vinegar,
salt and pepper; make the preparation into shapes resembling herrings,
and place the heads and tails, which should have been put aside for the
purpose, at each extremity of every supposed herring.
356—HERRINGS A LA RUSSE
Cut some fine, cleaned fillets of salted herrings into thin slices.
Dish up, and alternate the rows of sliced fillets with rows of sliced,
cold, boiled potatoes. Season with oil and vinegar, and finish up with
chopped chervil, fennel, tarragon, and shallots.
357—HERRINGS WITH FRENCH BEANS
These hors-d’œuvres can only be served at their best in the months
of September and October, when the first shoals of herrings begin to
appear. Dutch fishermen know of a means of salting and _marinading_
this fish, which greatly increases its value, and it is not unusual
to pay as much as two or three shillings for one in the early part
of the season. They can only be kept a few days, but they form an
excellent dish, and their flavour is exquisite. Before serving them, it
is only needful to skin them, whereupon they may be dished up with a
little chopped parsley. Send a bowl of French beans to the table with
them, the vegetables having been freshly cooked, kept somewhat firm,
buttered, and not cooled. Some cooks serve the beans cold, in the form
of a salad, but as a rule they are preferred hot with butter, while the
herrings should be very cold.
358—OYSTERS
The best oysters to be had are those of Whitstable, Colchester,
Burnham, and Zeeland. The green, French Marennes, which might equal the
above, are not favoured by everyone on account of their colour. Ostend
oysters are also excellent, but they are neither as delicate nor as
fleshy as the English ones.
Oysters are the dish par excellence; their delicacy satisfies the most
fastidious of epicures, and they are so easily digested that the most
delicate invalid can partake of them freely. With the exception of
caviare, they are the only hors-d’œuvres which should ever appear on
the menu of a well-ordered dinner.
Oysters ought to be served very cold; hence the prevailing custom of
dishing them on ice. In England they are served plain on the flat half
of the shell, whereas in France and elsewhere they are left in the
hollow half, which is better calculated to retain the natural liquor
of the oyster, held in high esteem by many. Send some slices of brown
bread and butter to the table with the oysters.
The various methods of treating oysters will be given hereafter in the
chapter dealing with fish. I have given them merely because consumers
and caterers alike may wish to have them; but the real and best way of
serving oysters is to send them to the table raw.
359—ARDENNES HAM
This is served like smoked breast of goose, cut, raw, into thin and
even slices.
360—CANTALOUP MELON
Melon makes an excellent hors-d’œuvre for summer luncheons. It should
be just ripe, and have a nice perfume. Serve it as fresh as possible.
361—ENGLISH MELONS
The English variety of melons is inferior in quality to the French.
Their shape is oval, their peel is yellow, thin, and smooth, and their
pulp, which is white, more nearly resembles the water-melon than the
melon in flavour.
362—MELON WITH PORT, MARSALA, OR SHERRY, &c.
Select a Cantaloup or other melon of the same kind as the former, and
let it be just ripe. Make a round incision about the stalk, three
inches in diameter; withdraw the plug thus cut, and through the
resulting hole thoroughly remove all the pips by means of a silver
spoon.
Now pour one-half pint of best Port, Marsala, or Sherry into the
melon, replace the plug, and keep the melon for two or three hours in
a cooler surrounded by broken ice. Do not cut the melon into slices
when serving it. It should be taken to the table, whole, and then the
piece containing the stalk is withdrawn and the fruit is cut into
shell-like slices with a silver spoon, and served with a little of the
accompanying wine upon iced plates.
363—VARIOUS MELONS
France produces a large variety of melons, of which the principal kinds
are the Sucrins of Tours, the St. Laud melon, the black melons of the
Carmes, &c. They are all excellent, and are served like the Cantaloups.
364—NATIVES WITH CAVIARE
This is a typically luxurious hors-d’œuvre. Cook some little tartlet
crusts for hors-d’œuvre (No. 387). When about to dish up, garnish
these with a tablespoonful of fine, fresh caviare; make a hollow in
the latter and place therein a fine Whitstable oyster (cleared of
its beard), seasoned with a little powdered pepper and a drop of
lemon-juice.
365—SMOKED BREAST OF GOOSE
Cut it into the thinnest possible slices, and garnish with very green
parsley.
366—PLAIN OLIVES
Olives of all kinds are suitable for hors-d’œuvres, and they are served
plain. Three or four varieties are known, all of which are excellent,
provided they be fleshy, firm, very green, and moderately salted.
367—STUFFED OLIVES
For this purpose, select large Spanish olives and stone them, either
by cutting them spirally, or by means of a special machine. In the
place of the stone, put one of the butters or creams for hors-d’œuvres
(Nos. 280 to 299). Before serving these olives, it is well to let them
rest awhile in a moderately warm atmosphere. For, since stuffed olives
are generally kept in the cool, immersed in oil with which they become
thoroughly saturated, it follows that the moment they are put into
contact with a slightly higher temperature they will exude that oil.
Wherefore, if the above precaution were not observed, by the time the
olives reached the table they would, more often than not, be swimming
in oil, when they would be neither nice nor appetising.
368—PLAIN LAPWINGS’ AND PLOVERS’ EGGS
Though the lapwing and the plover are different in respect of their
plumage, they are, nevertheless, birds of similar habits and haunts,
and their eggs are remarkably alike. The latter, which are a little
larger than pigeons’ eggs, have a light-green shell covered with black
spots.
When cooked, the albuminous portions acquire a milky colour, and never
assume the solidity of the whites of other eggs.
When served as a hors-d’œuvre, these eggs are always boiled hard. Put
them in a saucepan of cold water, and leave them to cook for eight
minutes after the boil is reached. Cool them, shell their pointed ends,
and serve them in a nest composed of watercress or curled-leaf parsley.
N.B.—Test the freshness of the eggs before boiling them by plunging
them in a bowl of cold water. If they float, their freshness is
doubtful, and they should be discarded.
369—LAPWINGS’ EGGS IN ASPIC
Decorate a border-mould according to taste, and let a thin coating of
very clear aspic jelly set on the bottom of the utensil. Besprinkle the
articles used in decorating with a few drops of melted jelly, in order
to keep them from shifting; then cover them with a few tablespoonfuls
of jelly, and let it set. On this coating of jelly arrange the shelled,
hard-boiled lapwings’ eggs with their points downwards, so that they
may appear upright when the aspic is withdrawn from the mould. Fill up
the mould by means of successive layers of melted jelly.
When about to serve, dip the mould into hot water; quickly wipe it, and
then turn the aspic out on to a folded napkin lying on a dish.
370—LAPWINGS’ EGGS A LA MODERNE
Boil the eggs soft; mould them in _dariole-moulds_, coated with
jelly, and garnished in _Chartreuse_ fashion. Heap a vegetable-salad,
thickened with mayonnaise, in the middle of the dish, and place the
eggs removed from their moulds all round.
371—LAPWINGS’ EGGS A LA CHRISTIANA
Cook the eggs as above; shell them; slice a piece off their thicker
ends to make them stand, and arrange them on a dish, placing them upon
little tartlet-crusts, garnished with a foie-gras purée.
For twelve eggs put two tablespoonfuls of foie-gras purée in a small
saucepan; add thereto one tablespoonful of chopped truffles and as much
melted jelly, the latter with a view to making the preparation more
liquid. Take some of this preparation in a tablespoon and pour it over
the eggs, taking care that each of these gets well covered with it.
Let the coating set in the cool, and dish up the tartlets on a napkin,
arranging them in the form of a circle with curled-leaf parsley as a
centre-garnish.
372—LAPWINGS’ EGGS A LA MOSCOVITE
Boil the eggs hard; cool and shell them. Prepare as many tartlet-crusts
as there are eggs. When dishing up, garnish the tartlets with a
coffeespoonful of caviare, and place one egg in the middle of each.
373—VARIOUS HARD-BOILED EGGS
With hard-boiled eggs for base, a large number of hors-d’œuvres may be
made. I shall limit myself to a few only, which, by means of a small
change in their form, garnish, or ornamentation, may be varied at will:—
_Egg Discs._—Cut the eggs laterally into roundels one-third inch
in thickness, and discard the two end-pieces of each egg, in order
that the shapes may be almost uniform, and that the yolks may appear
about the same size throughout. In the centre of each roundel make a
little rosette of butter, by means of a small, grooved pipe. Different
butters, such as the Shrimp, Montpellier, Caviare, and other kinds, may
be used with the view of varying the colours.
_Halved, Stuffed Eggs._—Take some very small, hard-boiled eggs; cut
them into two, lengthwise; remove the yolks, and trim the oval hollow
of each of the remaining whites to the shape of an oblong, the edges of
which may then be indented.
_Garnish_, either with a purée of tunny, salmon, milt, &c., or a
hash or _salpicon_ of lobster, shrimp, &c., thickened by means of
a mayonnaise with jelly, or a fine _macédoine_ of vegetables with
mayonnaise, or a purée composed of the withdrawn yolks combined with a
little butter, some cold Béchamel sauce, and herbs.
_Quartered, Stuffed Eggs._—The simplest way of doing this is to proceed
as above; to stuff the halved white with a buttered purée, or a purée
mixed with jelly, to leave the stuffing to set, and then to cut the
halves in two.
_Salad of Eggs._—With alternate rows of sliced eggs and either
tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, or beetroot, and a salad-seasoning
composed of oil and vinegar or cream, a dozen different salads may be
prepared, each of which constitutes an excellent hors-d’œuvre.
374—LARK PÂTE
For this hors-d’œuvre use the ready-made pâte, which is obtained either
in pots or crusts. Thoroughly set it by means of ice; turn it out of
its receptacle, cut it into very small and thin slices, and arrange
them on a hors-d’œuvre dish with a little broken jelly in the middle.
375—MILD, GRILLED CAPSICUM
Grill the capsicum on a moderate fire until the skins are so scorched
as to be easily removed.
Now cut them up _julienne-fashion_, and season with oil and vinegar.
376—RADISHES
In the preparation of hors-d’œuvres by the kitchen, radishes are
used chiefly as a garnish. When they constitute a hors-d’œuvre of
themselves, their preparation is relegated to the pantry.
They are used especially in imitating the pendulous flowers of the
fuchsia; sometimes, too, they are sliced and placed on cut cucumber to
form a dish-border; but their uses in garnishing are as numerous as
they are various.
377—AMERICAN RELISHES
These consist of divers kinds of fruit and of small onions and
gherkins, prepared with vinegar, seasoned with sugar and cinnamon, and
flavoured with cayenne.
They resemble what the Italians call “Aceto-dolce.” This hors-d’œuvre
is accompanied by special cinnamon biscuits, and remains on the table
throughout the meal.
378—RILLETTES AND RILLONS
Both these preparations, which belong to the province of the
pork-butcher, may be found on the market.
The rillettes are served in their pots, and are always sent to the
table very cold.
379—RED MULLET A L’ORIENTALE
Select small ones, as far as possible. Place them in an oiled pan, and
add peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, parsley-root, fennel, thyme, bay,
a little garlic, peppercorns, coriander, and saffron, the latter being
the dominating ingredient.
Cover the whole with white wine; salt moderately, set to boil, and then
leave to poach on the side of the fire for twelve or eighteen minutes,
in accordance with the size of the mullet.
Leave the fish to cool in their cooking-liquor, and serve them with a
little of the latter and a few slices of peeled lemon.
380—SARDINES
The various kinds of sardines for hors-d’œuvres may be found on the
market.
381—SALADS
Salads for hors-d’œuvres may consist of an endless diversity of
products, and their preparation varies so that it would be impossible
to prescribe fixed rules for the latter. I shall therefore restrict
myself to saying merely that they should be made as light and as
sightly as possible, in order that they may be in keeping with the
general idea and purpose of hors-d’œuvre.
382—GOTHA AND MILAN SALAMI
Cut these into very thin slices, and place them, one on top of the
other, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, in the form of a crown, with a sprig of
curled-leaf parsley in the middle. They may also be laid flat upon a
litter of parsley.
383—ARLES, BOLOGNE OR LARGE LYONS SAUSAGES
Cut these up and arrange them like the Salami.
384—FOIE-GRAS SAUSAGES
Cut into thin roundels and dish up with chopped aspic jelly as a
centre-garnish.
385—SMOKED SALMON
Cut into triangular, thin slices; roll these into cones, and arrange in
the form of a crown with curled-leaf parsley in the middle.
386—SPRATS
These are smoked sardines. Select the very fleshy ones, for there exist
many kinds, a few of which are dry and quite flavourless.
In order to prepare them, suppress the heads and remove or leave on the
skins, in accordance with the consumer’s taste. Put them on a dish with
some finely-chopped shallots, chopped parsley, and oil and vinegar,
using a very little of each ingredient. Leave them to _marinade_ for
five or six hours, taking care to turn them over from time to time so
as to thoroughly saturate them with the _marinade_.
387—TARTLETS AND BARQUETTES
These articles play an important part in the service of hors-d’œuvres,
and represent the class I designated under the name of _Frivolities_.
The garnishes suitable for tartlets are likewise used with
_barquettes_, the latter only differing from the former in their shape.
The directions which follow below, and which should be carefully noted,
apply equally to both.
_Special Paste for Tartlets and Barquettes._—Sift one lb. of flour
on to a mixing-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put
one-eighth oz. of salt, one-half lb. of cold, melted butter, one egg,
the yolks of two, and a few drops of water. Mix the whole into a paste,
handling it as little as possible; roll it into a ball, and put it
aside in the cool for two hours.
_The Preparation of Tartlet- and Barquette-crusts._—Roll out the paste
to the thickness of one-eighth inch, and stamp it with an indented
fancy-cutter into pieces of the same size as the tartlet-moulds to be
used, which in this case are the same as for “_petits fours_,” and,
therefore, very small.
The fancy-cutter should be round for tartlets, and oval for
_barquettes_. Lay the paste in the moulds, prick the parts lying on the
bottom, lest they should blister, garnish the insides with pieces of
kitchen-paper to protect the paste, and fill them with rice or flour.
Bake in a moderate oven; remove the rice or flour, the sole object of
which was to preserve the shape of the tartlets or _barquettes_; turn
the latter out of their moulds, and set them to cool.
_The Garnishes of Tartlets and Barquettes._—These may be divided into
two classes, viz., (1) those with a compound butter for base, (2) those
with an aspic jelly base.
The first class comprises all the garnishes I gave for _Canapés_
and Toast, as also all those which the operator’s fancy, taste, and
inventiveness may devise.
The second class generally consists of a layer, on the bottom, of some
kind of _mousse_, upon which a whole piece of a different colour from
the _mousse_ is placed, and which is then coated with a very clear
jelly.
_Example._—Garnish the bottom of a tartlet or _barquette_ with a
coating of pink, shrimp, crayfish or lobster _mousse_. Upon this lay
a very white poached oyster, or a slice of hard-boiled egg, stamped
with an indented fancy-cutter. In the centre of the yolk put a little
lobster coral, and coat the whole with jelly to the level of the
tartlet edges.
The explanations given above warrant my refraining from a more detailed
discussion of these delicate preparations. Sufficient has been said to
allow of any operator, with a little taste and inventiveness, easily
making an endless variety of combinations.
388—TUNNY IN OIL
This is found on the market, and it may be served as it stands. It is
very greatly used as a garnish for hors-d’œuvres.
389—TUNNY WITH TOMATOES
Lay alternate slices of tunny and tomato upon a hors-d’œuvre dish, and
between each slice lay a thin round of onion. Garnish the edge of the
dish with a border composed of sliced potato, and sprinkle the whole
with an ordinary salad seasoning.
390—MOCK TOMATOES
Select some about the size of a walnut, and peel them carefully. Press
them in a piece of linen, and set them to _marinade_ for half an hour
in oil and vinegar. Then stick a small piece of parsley stalk into each
tomato, in imitation of the stalk, and surround it with little leaves
made from green butter by means of a small piping-bag.
391—TOMATOES A L’AMÉRICAINE
Select some firm, medium-sized tomatoes, and cut them into thin slices.
Put them into a dish with salt, pepper, oil, and a few drops of
vinegar, and leave them to _marinade_ for twenty minutes. Then arrange
them on a hors-d’œuvre dish, garnishing the border with fine rings of
onion.
392—TOMATOES A LA MONÉGASQUE
Select some small tomatoes about the size of walnuts, and cut a slice
from each in the region of the stalk. Squeeze out all their water and
seeds, and _marinade_ them, inside, for twenty minutes. Prepare a mince
of tunny with oil, and add thereto, per two oz. of the fish, half a
tablespoonful of finely-chopped onion, a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley, chervil, and tarragon, and a small, hard-boiled egg, also
chopped.
Thicken the whole with a tablespoonful of thick mayonnaise; put it into
a bag fitted with a smooth, medium-sized pipe, and garnish the tomatoes
with the preparation, using enough of the latter to form a kind of dome
upon each tomato.
393—QUARTERED TOMATOES
Use medium-sized tomatoes, somewhat firm and with very smooth skins.
Peel them and empty them, and then fill them, either with a fish purée
cleared with jelly, or with a _macédoine_ of vegetables thickened by
means of a mayonnaise with jelly. Place on ice for half an hour, and
cut the tomatoes into regular quarters. The tomatoes may also be cut
into four, previous to stuffing them, whereupon they may, with the help
of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, be filled with one of the
compound butters.
394—MARINADED TROUT
Select some very small trout, clean and dress them, and poach them in a
white-wine _court-bouillon_ (No. 164) to which vinegar has been added
in the proportion of one-third of its volume.
Leave the fish to cool in the liquor, and dish up with a few
tablespoonfuls of the latter, placing some thin, grooved slices of
lemon upon the fish.
CHAPTER XII
EGGS
Of all the products put into requisition by the art of cookery, not
one is so fruitful of variety, so universally liked, and so complete
in itself as the egg. There are very few culinary recipes that do not
include eggs, either as a principal constituent or as an ingredient.
The many and various egg-preparations constitute chiefly breakfast or
luncheon dishes; nevertheless, at a Lenten dinner they may be served
as entrées with advantage, for, at a time when fish, shell-fish and
water-game are the only resources in this respect, eggs form a pleasant
and welcome change.
395—EGGS ON THE DISH
Eggs cooked in this way derive all their quality from the way in which
the cooking process is conducted. They must be evenly cooked, on top
and underneath, and should remain soft. An important condition of the
process is that the eggs should be exceedingly fresh. After having
heated sufficient butter in the dish to cover the whole of the bottom,
break two eggs into it, baste the yolks with a little very hot butter,
salt them slightly, and push them into the oven. As soon as the white
of the eggs assumes a milky-white colour, they are cooked and should be
withdrawn from the oven to be served immediately.
Great attention should be bestowed upon the cooking process, a few
seconds more or less than the required time being sufficient to spoil
the eggs. Special care ought to be taken that they do not cook either
too much or too quickly, for it should be remembered that, even were
the cooking checked before the proper time, the heat of the dish does,
to a certain extent, make good the deficiency.
Eggs _à la poêle_, which, in England, are called “fried eggs,” are a
variety of eggs on the dish, very often served on toast, or accompanied
by sausages or fried bacon. They are cooked in an omelet-pan, trimmed
neatly with a fancy-cutter, and placed, by means of a spatula, upon the
prepared toast.
About one-half oz. of butter should be allowed for every two eggs,
which number constitutes the working-base of the following recipes.
396—BERCY EGGS
Put half of the butter to be used in a dish; let it melt, break the
eggs, taking care not to burst the yolks; baste the latter with the
rest of the butter, and season. Cook as directed—that is to say, until
the whites are quite done and the yolks are glossy. Garnish with a
small, grilled sausage, placed between the yolks, and surround with a
thread of tomato sauce.
397—EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER
There are two methods: (1) Cook the eggs in a dish as usual, and then
cover them with one-quarter oz. of brown butter and a few drops of
vinegar, which should be added after the butter.
(2) Put one-half oz. of butter into a small omelet-pan, and cook it
until it is almost black. Break the eggs into it, season, cook, tilt
them gently on to a dish, and besprinkle with a few drops of vinegar,
with which the omelet-pan has been rinsed.
398—EGGS CHASSEUR
Cook the eggs as per No. 395. This done, garnish on either side with a
tablespoonful of sliced chicken’s liver, rapidly _sautéd_ and cohered
with a little Chasseur sauce.
399—DEVILLED EGGS
Cook the eggs in the omelet-pan; turn them, after the manner of
pancakes, taking care lest they break. Slide them gently into a dish,
and besprinkle them with brown butter and a few drops of vinegar with
which the omelet-pan has been rinsed.
400—EGGS A LA FLORENTINE
Garnish the bottom of a dish with spinach-leaves stewed in butter;
sprinkle thereon two pinches of grated cheese; break the eggs upon this
garnish, and cover them with two tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce. Place
in a fierce oven, so that the cooking and glazing of the eggs may be
effected simultaneously.
401—EGGS AU GRATIN
Put a tablespoonful of very hot Mornay sauce into a dish. Break the
eggs into it, cover them with Mornay sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese
mixed with fine raspings, and cook in a fierce oven, in order that the
eggs and the _gratin_ may be done at the same time.
402—ISOLINE EGGS
Cook the eggs according to No. 395. Place between them, and all round
the dish, some small, halved tomatoes à la Provençale. Put in the
centre of each halved tomato a fine chicken’s liver _sautéd_ with
Madeira.
403—JOCKEY CLUB EGGS
Cook the eggs in an omelet-pan; tilt them gently on to a dish, and trim
them with a round fancy-cutter. Place each egg upon a round, thin piece
of toast, and then cover them with foie-gras purée. Arrange them in
the form of a crown, on a dish, and pour into the middle a garnish of
calf’s kidneys cut into dice and _sautéd_, and truffles similarly cut,
the latter being cohered by means of some dense half-glaze.
404—LULLY EGGS
Cook the eggs in an omelet-pan, and cut them with a round fancy-cutter.
Place each egg on a slice of raw ham, cut to the same shape as the
former, and fried in butter. Then place the egg and ham on toast
similarly shaped and of the same size. Arrange the eggs in a circle
round the dish, and garnish the middle of it with macaroni combined
with _concassed_ tomatoes stewed in butter.
405—MEYERBEER EGGS
Cook the eggs as in No. 395. Place a small, grilled sheep’s or lamb’s
kidney between each yolk, and surround with a thread of Périgueux sauce.
406—MIRABEAU EGGS
Substitute for ordinary butter, anchovy butter. Break the eggs and cook
them. Surround each yolk with anchovy fillets, and garnish each of
these with a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves. Place a large olive
stuffed with tarragon butter on either side of the yolks.
407—OMER-PACHA EGGS
Garnish a dish with a large tablespoonful of minced onions cooked in
butter and unbrowned. Break the eggs over the garnish, sprinkle them
with a small tablespoonful of dry, grated Parmesan cheese, and cook in
a sufficiently fierce oven for a slight _gratin_ to form as soon as the
eggs are done.
408—PARMENTIER EGGS
Bake some fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Open them, from above, with
an oval fancy-cutter; remove the pulp from the inside, rub it through a
sieve, and make a smooth purée of it. Half-fill the potato-shells with
this purée, break an egg into each, besprinkle with cream, and cook
in the oven. Replace the part of the baked shell removed in the first
instance, and dish up on a napkin.
409—EGGS A LA PORTUGAISE
Put a tablespoonful of tomato _fondue_ into a dish. Break the eggs upon
this, season, and cook. Between the eggs and at each end of the dish
put a little heap of tomato _fondue_, and on each of the heaps drop a
pinch of chopped parsley.
410—EGGS A LA REINE
Cook the eggs in an omelet-pan, and trim them with a round
fancy-cutter. Put each egg upon a small disc of Duchesse potatoes, of
the same size as the egg, previously browned in the oven. Arrange the
eggs in a circle round the dish; in the middle put a chicken mincemeat,
and surround with a border of Suprême sauce.
=Poached and Soft-boiled Eggs=
All the recipes given hereafter apply equally to poached and
soft-boiled eggs, wherefore I shall only mention “poached” in the
titles, leaving soft-boiled to be understood.
411—PROCEDURE FOR POACHED EGGS
The one and only essential condition in this case is the use of
perfectly fresh eggs, for it is quite impossible to expect an even
poaching if this condition is not fulfilled.
(1) Have ready a sauté-pan containing boiling salted water
(one-third oz. of salt per quart of water), slightly acidulated with
vinegar. Break the eggs over that part of the water which is actually
boiling.
(2) In order that the eggs may poach freely, do not put more than eight
or ten at a time into the same sauté-pan; better even poach them six at
a time, for then the poaching will be effected more equally.
(3) As soon as the eggs are in the water, let the latter simmer. The
egg is poached when the white has enveloped the yolk, reassuming, as
it were, the form of a raw egg, and when it may be touched without
breaking. The usual time allowed for poaching is three minutes.
(4) Withdraw the eggs by means of a slice; dip them into cold water,
trim their whites, and put them back into moderately warm water until
ready to serve.
412—THE COOKING OF SOFT-BOILED EGGS
These ought to be very fresh, as in the case of poached eggs. With a
view to equalising their cooking, it is a good plan to put them in a
colander perforated with large holes, whereby they may be plunged into
and withdrawn from the water together. Keep the water boiling; plunge
the eggs therein as directed; leave them to cook for six minutes from
the time the water has regained the boiling-point; drain, steep for a
moment in a bowl of cold water, and shell the eggs carefully. Keep them
in moderately-salted hot water until ready to serve.
413—THE DISHING OF POACHED AND SOFT-BOILED EGGS
There are many ways of doing this, viz.:—
(1) On rusks of bread-crumb, slightly hollowed, ornamented according
to taste (_i.e._, indented by means of the point of a small knife) and
fried in clarified butter. Their shape is oval for poached eggs, and
round for soft-boiled eggs, the latter being generally dished upright.
(2) On little, oval _feuilletés_ for poached eggs, on _feuilletés_ in
the shape of indented crowns, or in small patties for soft-boiled eggs.
(3) In borders of forcemeat or other preparations, the kind of which
is indicated by the name of the particular egg-preparation. These
borders are laid on the dish by means of a piping-bag or by hand; they
are either oval or round, plain or indented, poached or oven-browned,
according to the nature of the preparation used.
(4) On tartlet-crusts which are garnished so as to be in keeping with
the method of dressing the eggs.
_Remarks._—(1) Poached or soft-boiled eggs, when dished upon fried
rusks, _feuilletés_, or tartlets, should, before being placed on the
latter, be covered with sauce. Also before being treated with sauce
they should be well drained.
(2) Having given the general outlines of the procedure, I shall now
pass on to the particular recipes, stating them briefly, and reminding
the reader that all of them apply equally to poached and soft-boiled
eggs. Thus “Poached Eggs Mireille” stands for “Poached or Soft-boiled
Eggs Mireille.”
414—POACHED EGGS ARGENTEUIL
Garnish the bottom of some tartlet-crusts with asparagus cut into
pieces and cooked, and six green asparagus-heads, about one and
one-half inches in length, arranged like a star. Place an egg, coated
with cream sauce mixed with half its volume of asparagus purée, upon
each tartlet.
415—POACHED EGGS A L’AURORE
Coat the eggs with Aurora sauce, and dish them on oval _feuilletés_
if poached, or upright on _feuilletés_ in the shape of rings if
soft-boiled.
416—POACHED EGGS EN BERCEAU
Bake some fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Cut each potato in half,
lengthwise, with the point of a small knife, and remove the pulp.
Emptied in this way, the halved potatoes resemble little cradles. Coat
the interior of each cradle with a fine chicken mincemeat mixed with
cream, and place an egg coated with Aurora sauce in each.
417—POACHED EGGS A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Garnish the bottom of some tartlet-crusts with a _salpicon_ of
foie-gras and truffles cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of the
following sauce:—For six eggs, dissolve one teaspoonful of white-meat
glaze; add thereto half a teaspoonful of truffle essence, and finish
with a lump of butter about the size of a pigeon’s egg. Take enough of
this sauce to effect the cohering of the _salpicon_; coat the eggs with
Hungarian sauce, and place one upon each garnished tartlet.
418—POACHED EGGS BOÏELDIEU
Garnish the tartlets with a white-chicken-meat, foie-gras, and truffle
_salpicon_ cohered with poultry velouté. Coat the eggs with a reduced
and thickened poultry gravy.
419—POACHED EGGS A LA BRUXELLOISE
Garnish some tartlet-crusts with braised, minced endives thickened
with cream. Place an egg, coated with cream sauce, upon each; sprinkle
moderately with _biscotte_ raspings, and set to glaze quickly in a
fierce oven.
420—POACHED EGGS A LA CLAMART
Garnish some tartlet-crusts with small, green peas, cooked à la
française (No. 2193), and mixed with finely _ciseled_ lettuce which
should have cooked with them. Place an egg, coated with cream sauce
which has been finished with fresh-pea butter, upon each.
421—POACHED EGGS COLBERT
Garnish some tartlet-crusts with a _macédoine_ cohered with Béchamel.
Place a plainly-poached egg upon each, and send Colbert butter,
separately, to the table with the tartlets.
422—POACHED EGGS A LA COMTESSE
Garnish some tartlet-crusts with white asparagus purée. Place an egg
coated with Allemande sauce upon each, and sprinkle with very black
chopped truffles.
423—POACHED EGGS GRAND DUC
There are two modes of procedure:—(_a_) Place the eggs on fried rusks,
with a nice slice of truffle on each; arrange them in a circle round
the dish, coat with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.
On withdrawing the dish from the oven, put in the centre a garnish
composed of asparagus-heads and a small faggot of the latter, very
green and cooked. (_b_) Prepare a _croustade_, moulded in a flawn ring,
the size of which must be in proportion to the number of eggs to be
served. Arrange the eggs in a circle in the _croustade_, coat them with
Mornay sauce, and set to glaze in a fierce oven. On withdrawing the
_croustade_ from the oven, garnish its centre with asparagus-heads and
a small faggot as above.
424—POACHED EGGS MAINTENON
Garnish some tartlet-crusts with a Soubise à la Béchamel, slightly
thickened by reduction. Coat the eggs with Mornay sauce, besprinkle
with grated cheese, and place them in the crusts by means of a slice.
Set to glaze in a fierce oven, and, on withdrawing the dish from the
oven, surround the crusts with a thread of melted meat-glaze.
425—POACHED EGGS MASSÉNA
Heat some medium-sized artichoke-bottoms in butter. Slightly hollow
them, if necessary, and garnish each with a tablespoonful of
Béarnaise sauce. Place an egg, coated with tomato sauce, upon each
artichoke-bottom; then place a slice of poached marrow upon each egg,
and a little chopped parsley upon each slice of marrow.
426—POACHED EGGS MIREILLE
Slightly press some saffroned pilaff rice in buttered tartlet moulds.
Prepare as many pieces of toast of the same size as the tartlets, and
fry them in oil. Place an egg, coated with cream sauce, finished with
saffron, upon each. Turn the rice-tartlets out of the moulds, and
arrange them in a circle on a dish, alternating them with the eggs on
toast; put a coffeespoonful of _concassed_ tomatoes, stewed in butter
and kept rather thick, upon each rice-tartlet.
427—POACHED EGGS MORNAY
Coat the eggs with Mornay sauce, and besprinkle with grated Gruyère and
Parmesan cheese mixed with fine raspings. Then, by means of a slice,
carefully transfer the eggs to pieces of toast fried in oil. Arrange
them in a circle on a dish, sprinkle each egg with a few drops of
melted butter, and set to glaze quickly in a fierce oven.
428—POACHED EGGS D’ORSAY
Place the eggs upon toast fried in butter. Arrange them in a circle on
a dish, and coat them with Châteaubriand sauce.
429—POACHED EGGS ROSSINI
Garnish some tartlet-crusts, each with a slice of foie gras (raw if
possible) seasoned, dredged with flour, and fried in butter. Place an
egg, coated with thickened veal gravy with Madeira, on each tartlet,
and complete by means of a large slice of very black truffle on each
egg.
430—POACHED EGGS SÉVIGNÉ
Prepare some thin rusks; fry them in clarified butter, and stuff them
with a mince of braised lettuce. Place an egg on each stuffed rusk;
coat with velouté mixed with poultry essence; arrange in a circle on a
dish, and complete by means of a ring of very black truffle on each egg.
431—POACHED EGGS VICTORIA
Garnish some tartlet-crusts with a _salpicon_ made from three oz. of
spiny-lobster meat and one-half oz. of truffles, cohered with three
tablespoonfuls of Diplomate sauce. Place an egg, coated with Diplomate
sauce, on each tartlet. Dish, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.
432—POACHED EGGS WITH RED WINE
These eggs may either be poached with red wine, or in the ordinary way.
In the first case, the wine used for poaching may serve to prepare the
red wine or Bordelaise sauce (No. 32). In either case, the eggs are
dished on oval rusks, slightly hollowed and fried in butter; they are
coated with the sauce, after having been dished, and they are quickly
glazed.
433—HARD-BOILED EGGS
Boiling eggs hard may seem an insignificant matter, but, like the other
modes of procedure, it is, in reality, of some importance, and should
be effected in a given period of time. If, for a special purpose, they
have to be just done, it is pointless and even harmful to boil them
beyond a certain time-limit, seeing that any excess in the boiling
only makes them tough, and the whites particularly so, owing to their
albuminous nature. In order to boil eggs uniformly, they should be put
into a colander with large holes, whereby they may be plunged at the
same moment of time into the boiling water. From the time the water
regains the boiling point, eight minutes should be allowed in the case
of medium-sized eggs, and ten minutes in the case of larger ones; but
these times should never be exceeded. As soon as they are done drain
the eggs and dip them in cold water, and then shell them carefully.
434—HARD-BOILED EGGS CARÊME
Have ready beforehand a timbale crust (No. 2394), somewhat shallow.
For six hard-boiled eggs, slice four artichoke-bottoms of medium size,
and stew them in butter; cut some truffles into slices, allowing four
slices to each egg, and cut up the eggs into discs about one-half inch
thick. Prepare also in advance one-half pint of Nantua sauce.
Garnish the crust with alternate layers of sliced artichoke-bottoms,
egg-discs, and sliced truffles. Finish with a coating of sauce and a
ring of sliced truffles.
Dish up the crust on a napkin.
435—HARD-BOILED EGGS CHIMAY
Cut the eggs, lengthwise, in two. Remove the yolks, pound them into
a paste, and add thereto an equal quantity of dry Duxelle (No. 223).
Fill the empty whites with the preparation; place them on a buttered
_gratin_-dish; cover them with Mornay sauce; besprinkle with grated
cheese; pour a few drops of melted butter upon the sauce, and set to
glaze in a fierce oven.
436—HARD-BOILED EGGS IN CROQUETTES
Cut the eggs into small dice (white and yolks). Per six eggs add
five oz. of cooked mushrooms and one oz. of truffles, cut into dice.
Thicken the whole with one-quarter pint of reduced Béchamel, and spread
on a plate to cool.
When cold, divide the preparation into portions weighing about two oz.;
roll these portions into balls on a floured mixing-board, and then
shape them like eggs. Dip them into an _anglaise_ (No. 174), taking
care to cover them well with it, and then roll them in fine and fresh
bread-crumbs, letting this operation avail for finishing off the shape.
Put them into hot fat seven or eight minutes before dishing up; drain,
salt moderately, place on a napkin, with a centre garnish of very
green, fried parsley, and send a cream sauce to the table with them.
437—HARD-BOILED EGGS IN RISSOLES
Make a preparation of eggs, as for the croquettes, using a little more
sauce. Roll some puff-paste trimmings to a thickness of one-quarter
inch, and stamp it with a round indented cutter two and one-half inches
in diameter.
Place a small tablespoonful of the preparation in the middle of each
piece of paste; moisten slightly all round, and make the rissoles
by folding the outside edges of the paste over one another to look
like a closed purse, taking care to press them well together so as to
join them, thus completely enclosing the preparation. Treat them _à
l’anglaise_; put them into hot fat eight minutes before serving, and
dish up on a napkin, with a centre garnish of parsley.
438—EGGS A LA TRIPE
For six eggs, finely mince two onions, and stew them in butter, without
letting them acquire any colour. Add thereto one-half pint of Béchamel
sauce, and set to cook gently for ten minutes. A few minutes before
serving add the eggs, cut into large slices, to the sauce.
Dish up in a timbale.
439—EGGS A LA TRIPE, BOURGEOISE
For six eggs chop up two large onions and stew them in butter without
colouration. Sprinkle them with one-half oz. of flour, moisten with one
pint of boiling milk, and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Set to cook, gently, for twenty minutes; rub through a fine sieve or
through tammy, and transfer the preparation to a saucepan, and heat it
well. Dish up the eggs, which should be quartered, in a timbale, and
cover them with the preparation of onions, very hot.
440—EGGS EN COCOTTE
The poaching of eggs _en cocotte_ is done in the _bain-marie_.
_Cocottes_ for eggs, which may be replaced by little china or plaited
cases, are a kind of small saucepan in earthenware, in porcelain, or
in silver, provided with a little handle. The time generally allowed
for the cooking or poaching of eggs in this way is ten minutes, but
this time is subject to variations either way. In order to accelerate
the process I should advise the warming of the _cocottes_ before the
insertion of the eggs.
_Mode of Procedure._—Having garnished the _cocottes_ and broken the
eggs into them, as directed in the recipes given hereafter, set them
in a sauté-pan and pour therein enough boiling water to reach within
one-half inch of the brims of the _cocottes_. Place in the oven and
cover, just leaving sufficient opening for the steam to escape.
The eggs are done when the whites are almost set and the yolks are
glossy. After having properly wiped the _cocottes_, dish them on a
napkin or on a fancy dish-paper.
441—EGGS EN COCOTTE AU CHAMBERTIN
Prepare a red-wine sauce au Chambertin. Fill the _cocottes_, one-third
full, with this sauce. Set to boil on a corner of the stove; break
the eggs into the boiling sauce, season with a grain of salt, and put
the _cocottes_, one by one, into a sauté-pan containing the necessary
quantity of boiling water.
Poach as directed, and set to glaze quickly at the last moment.
442—EGGS EN COCOTTE WITH CREAM
This preparation constitutes the radical type of this series of eggs,
and, for a long time, was the only one in use. Heat the _cocottes_
beforehand; pour a tablespoonful of boiling cream into each, followed
by an egg, broken; season, and add two little lumps of butter, the size
of peas. Place the _cocottes_ in a _bain-marie_, and poach as before.
443—EGGS EN COCOTTE A LA JEANNETTE
Garnish the bottom and the sides of the _cocottes_ with a thickness of
one-third inch of chicken-forcemeat with cream, mixed with a fifth of
its volume of foie gras. Break the egg over the middle, season, and
poach in the usual way. When about to serve, surround the eggs with a
thread of poultry velouté.
444—EGGS EN COCOTTE WITH GRAVY
Break the eggs into buttered _cocottes_. Season, poach, and, when about
to serve, surround the yolks with a thread of reduced veal gravy.
445—EGGS EN COCOTTE A LA LORRAINE
Put a teaspoonful of breast of pork, cut into dice and fried, into
each _cocotte_, also three thin slices of Gruyère cheese and one
tablespoonful of boiling cream. Break the eggs, season, and poach in
the usual way.
446—EGGS EN COCOTTE A LA MARAICHÈRE
Garnish the bottom and sides of the _cocottes_ with cooked spinach,
chopped and pressed, and sorrel and lettuce leaves, both of which
should be stewed in butter. Break the eggs, season, poach in the usual
way, and, when about to send the eggs to the table, drop a fine chervil
_pluche_ on each yolk.
447—EGGS EN COCOTTE WITH MORELS
Garnish the bottom and sides of the cocottes with minced morels fried
in butter and thickened with a little reduced half-glaze. Break the
eggs, season, poach, and surround the yolks with a thread of half-glaze
when dishing up.
448—EGGS EN COCOTTE A LA SOUBISE
Garnish the bottom and sides of the _cocottes_ with a coating of thick
Soubise purée. Break the eggs, season, and poach. When dishing up,
surround the yolks with a thread of melted meat-glaze.
449—MOULDED EGGS
These form a very ornamental dish, but the time required to prepare
them being comparatively long, poached, soft-boiled, and other kinds of
eggs are generally preferred in their stead. They are made in variously
shaped moulds, ornamented according to the nature of the preparation,
and the eggs are broken into them direct, or they may be inserted
in the form of scrambled eggs, together with raw eggs poached in a
_bain-marie_.
Whatever be the mode of preparation, the moulds should always be
liberally buttered. The usual time allowed for the poaching of the eggs
in moulds is from ten to twelve minutes, but when withdrawn from the
_bain-marie_ it is well to let the moulds stand awhile with the view of
promoting a settling of their contents, which action facilitates the
ultimate turning out of the latter.
Empty the moulds on small pieces of toast or tartlets, and arrange
these in a circle round the dish.
450—MOULDED EGGS A LA CARIGNAN
Butter some _Madeleine-moulds_, shaped like elongated shells, and
garnish them with a thin coating of chicken-stuffing or crayfish
butter. Break the eggs in the middle of the forcemeat; season, place
carefully in a _bain-marie_, and poach, with cover on, in the oven,
leaving a small opening for the escape of the generated vapour. Empty
the moulds on toast cut to the same shape as the moulds and fried in
butter; arrange them on the dish, and coat with a Châteaubriand sauce.
451—MOULDED EGGS A LA DUCHESSE
Butter some baba-moulds; garnish the bottom of each with a large slice
of truffle; break an egg into each, and poach in the _bain-marie_.
Turn out the moulds on to little fluted _galettes_ made from Duchesse
potatoes and coloured in the oven after having been _gilded_.
Dish up in the form of a crown, and coat with a thickened veal gravy.
452—GALLI-MARIÉ, MOULDED EGGS
For four people: (1) Prepare five scrambled eggs, keeping them very
soft; add thereto three raw, beaten eggs and one teaspoonful of
capsicum, cut into dice. Mould this preparation in four little shallow
_cassolettes_, well buttered, and poach in the _bain-marie_.
(2) Have ready and hot as many cooked artichoke-bottoms as there are
_cassolettes_; the former should have had their edges fluted. Have also
ready a “Rice à la Grecque” (No. 2253).
(3) Garnish the artichoke-bottoms with the rice; turn out the
_cassolettes_ upon the latter; arrange on a dish, and cover with
highly-seasoned and buttered Béchamel sauce. Put the dish in a fierce
oven, so as to glaze quickly, and serve immediately.
453—MOULDED EGGS A LA MORTEMART
Scramble five eggs, keeping them soft, and add thereto three raw,
beaten eggs. Butter some shallow, timbale moulds; garnish their bottoms
with a fine slice of truffle, and fill them with the preparation of
eggs. Poach in a _bain-marie_.
Turn out each mould on a tartlet-crust, garnished with mushroom purée
à la crème (No. 2079), and arrange in a circle on a round dish. Send a
sauceboat containing some melted and buttered meat-glaze to the table
with the eggs.
454—NEAPOLITAN MOULDED EGGS
Make a preparation consisting of scrambled eggs and Parmesan cheese,
keeping it very soft; add thereto, per five scrambled eggs, two
raw eggs. Fill some little, well-buttered brioche-moulds with this
preparation, and poach in the _bain-marie_. As soon as their contents
are properly set, turn out the moulds on to a buttered _gratin_ dish,
besprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, and coat the eggs with reduced
and buttered half-glaze, well saturated with tomato.
455—MOULDED EGGS PALERMITAINE
Butter some _baba-moulds_; garnish the bottoms with a slice of truffle,
and besprinkle the sides with very red, chopped tongue. Put the moulds
in ice for a while, in order that the tongue may set in the butter.
Break an egg into each mould, season, and poach in the _bain-marie_.
Turn out the moulds on tartlet-crusts garnished with macaroni with
cream.
456—POLIGNAC MOULDED EGGS
Butter some _baba-moulds_, and garnish the bottoms with a slice of
truffle. Break an egg into each; season, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
Turn out the moulds upon little round pieces of toast; arrange them in
a circle on a dish, and coat the eggs with Maître-d’Hôtel butter, the
latter being dissolved and mixed with three tablespoonfuls of melted
meat-glaze per every one-quarter lb. of its weight.
457—PRINCESS MOULDED EGGS
Butter some narrow and deep _dariole-moulds_; garnish their bottoms
with a slice of very black truffle, and their sides with a very thin
coating of chicken forcemeat.
Make a preparation of scrambled eggs, asparagus-heads, and truffles cut
into dice, keeping them very soft, and add thereto raw, beaten eggs in
the proportion of one raw egg to every four scrambled.
Fill the moulds, two-thirds full, with this preparation; cover the eggs
with a coating of forcemeat, and poach in a _bain-marie_ for twelve
minutes.
Turn out the moulds upon little, round pieces of toast; set these in
a circle on a dish, and surround them with a thread of clear poultry
velouté. Or the velouté may be sent to the table separately, in a
sauceboat.
458—PRINTANIER MOULDED EGGS
Butter some hexagonal moulds, and garnish them, _Chartreuse-fashion_,
with cut-up, cooked vegetables, varying the shades. Break an egg into
each mould; season, and poach in a _bain-marie_. Turn out the moulds
upon little, round pieces of toast; arrange these in a circle on a
dish, and pour in their midst a cream sauce finished by means of a
_Printanier_ butter with herbs, in the proportion of one oz. of butter
to one-quarter pint of sauce.
459—SCRAMBLED EGGS
This dish is undoubtedly the finest of all egg-preparations, provided
the eggs be not over-cooked, and they be kept soft and creamy.
Scrambled eggs are mostly served in silver timbales, but, in certain
cases, they may also be dished in special little _croustades_, in
little receptacles made from hollowed brioches, or in tartlet-crusts.
Formerly, it was customary to garnish scrambled eggs served in a silver
timbale with small, variously-shaped pieces of toast, or with small
scraps of puff-paste, cooked without colouration, and shaped like
crescents, lozenges, rings, _palmettes_, &c. This method has something
to recommend it, and may always be adopted. In old cookery, scrambled
eggs were sanctioned only when cooked in a _bain-marie_. This measure
certainly ensured their being properly cooked, but it considerably
lengthened the procedure. The latter may therefore be shortened by
cooking the eggs in the usual way, _i.e._, in a utensil in direct
contact with the fire; but in this case the heat must be moderate, in
order that, the process of cooking being progressive and gradual,
perfect homogeneity of the particles of the eggs (effecting the
smoothness of the preparation) may result.
460—METHOD OF SCRAMBLING EGGS
For six eggs, slightly heat one oz. of butter in a thick-bottomed
sauté-pan. Add the six eggs, beaten moderately, together with a
large pinch of salt and a little pepper; place the pan on a moderate
fire, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, taking care to avoid
anything in the way of sudden, fierce heat, which, by instantaneously
solidifying the egg-molecules, would cause lumps to form in the mass—a
thing which, above all, should be guarded against.
When, by cooking, the eggs have acquired the proper consistence, and
are still smooth and creamy, take the sauté-pan off the fire, and
finish the preparation by means of one and one-half oz. of butter
(divided into small quantities) and three tablespoonfuls of cream. Only
whisk the eggs to be scrambled when absolutely necessary.
N.B.—Having given the mode of procedure, which is unalterable for
scrambled eggs, I shall now pass on, in the following recipes, to the
various garnishes suited to this kind of dish. The quantities I give
are those required for six scrambled eggs.
461—SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Take one cottage brioche for every two eggs. Remove the tops of the
brioches, and the crumb from the remaining portions, so as to form
cases of these. Add one-half oz. of foie gras to the scrambled eggs,
and half as much truffles, cut into dice, for every two eggs. Fill the
emptied brioches with this preparation, and place a slice of truffle
coated with meat-glaze upon each.
462—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS
Add to the scrambled eggs one oz. of cooked mushrooms cut into dice, or
raw mushrooms, minced and _sautéd_ in butter, for every two eggs.
Dish in a timbale; put a fine, cooked, and grooved mushroom in the
middle, and surround with a crown of sliced mushrooms, also cooked.
463—SCRAMBLED EGGS, CHASSEUR
Dish the scrambled eggs in a timbale. Hollow out the middle, and place
therein a garnish of one fine chicken’s liver, _sautéd_, per every two
eggs. Sprinkle a pinch of chervil and tarragon on the garnish, and
surround with a thread of chasseur sauce (No. 33).
464—SCRAMBLED EGGS, CHATILLON
Dish the eggs in a timbale, and place a garnish of mushrooms in the
centre. The mushrooms should first be minced raw, and then _sautéd_
in butter. Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley on the garnish, and
surround with a thread of melted meat-glaze. Border the whole, close
to the sides of the timbale, with small crescents of puff-paste, baked
pale.
465—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SHRIMPS
Dish the scrambled eggs in a silver timbale. Place a little heap of
shrimps’ tails bound with a few tablespoonfuls of shrimp sauce in the
middle, and surround with a thread of the same sauce.
466—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH HERBS
Add to the scrambled eggs a tablespoonful of parsley, chervil
_pluches_, chives, and tarragon leaves in equal quantities and chopped.
467—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CHEESE
Break the eggs, beat them, season, and add thereto, for every two
eggs, one-half oz. of fresh grated Gruyère cheese, and as much grated
Parmesan. Cook the eggs in the usual way on a very moderate fire, in
order to keep them creamy.
468—SCRAMBLED EGGS GRAND-MÈRE
Add to the scrambled eggs a tablespoonful of little crusts, cut into
dice, fried in clarified butter, and prepared in time to be inserted
into the eggs very hot. Dish in a timbale with a pinch of chopped
parsley in the middle.
469—SCRAMBLED EGGS, GEORGETTE
Bake three fine Dutch potatoes, or six smaller ones, in the oven. Open
them by means of an incision on their tops; withdraw the pulp from the
interior with the handle of a spoon, and keep the remaining shells
hot. Prepare the scrambled eggs in the usual way, and finish them away
from the fire with one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, and eight
or ten shelled crayfish tails. Garnish the potato shells with this
preparation, and dish up on a napkin.
470—SCRAMBLED EGGS FOR HOT LUNCHEON HORS-D’ŒUVRE
I only give one recipe of this kind, but the series may be extended
at will without involving much deep research, since all that is needed
for the purpose of variety is the modification of the garnish and a
change in the _soufflé_ preparation. The mode of procedure remains
unalterable. Prepare the scrambled eggs, and garnish them as fancy may
suggest. Also make a “Soufflé with Parmesan Cheese” (No. 2295a).
Put the scrambled eggs into a large tartlet-crust, cook without
colouration, filling them only two-thirds full. Cover with the
_soufflé_ preparation, taking care to make it project in a mound above
the tartlets; place these on a tray, poach quickly in a hot oven, and
glaze at the same time.
471—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MORELS
Add to the scrambled eggs some minced morels, _sautéd_ in butter and
seasoned. Dish in timbales, and place a fine, cooked morel in the
centre of each.
472—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MOUSSERONS
Proceed as for No. 471.
473—SCRAMBLED EGGS, ORLOFF
Break the eggs; beat them, and add thereto a little fresh, thick cream.
Cook them in the usual way, and add three crayfishes’ tails per every
two eggs. Dish in little porcelain cases, place a fine slice of truffle
in each of the cases, and arrange these upon a napkin lying on a dish.
474—SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Add to the scrambled eggs, per every two of the latter, one-half oz. of
grated Parmesan cheese and a coffeespoonful of raw, grated, Piedmont
truffles. Dish in a timbale, and garnish with a fine crown of sliced
truffles of the same kind as the above.
475—SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA PORTUGAISE
Dish the eggs in a timbale, and place, in the middle, some fine,
_concassed_ tomatoes, seasoned and _sautéd_ in butter. Sprinkle a pinch
of _concassed_ parsley on the tomatoes, and surround with a thread of
meat-glaze.
476—SCRAMBLED EGGS, PRINCESS MARY
Prepare some small timbales in _dariole-moulds_ from puff-paste
scraps, and bake them without colouration; also some little covers of
puff-paste, stamped out with an indented fancy-cutter, two inches in
diameter. Set the covers on a tray, _gild_ them slightly, place on each
a scrap of indented paste, and leave this uncoloured. Bake the timbales
and the covers in a moderate oven.
Make a preparation of scrambled eggs and Parmesan cheese; add to this,
away from the fire, two tablespoonfuls of reduced velouté with truffle
essence and truffles cut into dice.
Garnish the timbales, put a cover on each, and dish up on a napkin.
477—SCRAMBLED EGGS, RACHEL
Add some truffles, cut into dice, and some asparagus-heads to the
scrambled eggs. Dish on a timbale; put a fine little faggot of
asparagus-heads in the middle, and surround with a crown of sliced
truffles.
478—SCRAMBLED EGGS, REINE MARGOT
Prepare the scrambled eggs in the usual way, and finish them with the
necessary quantity of almond butter. Place this preparation in small
tartlet-crusts, baked without colouration, and surround the tartlets
with a thread of Béchamel sauce, finished with pistachio butter, the
thread of sauce being close up to the edge of the tartlets.
480—SCRAMBLED EGGS, ROTHSCHILD
Finely pound the remains of six crayfish (cooked in _Mirepoix_) the
tails of which have been put aside, and add thereto, little by little,
two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Rub through tammy.
Add this crayfish cream to the six beaten eggs; season, and cook on a
moderate fire with the object of obtaining a smooth, soft, and creamy
preparation. Serve in a timbale and garnish, firstly with a small
faggot of asparagus-heads placed in the middle of the eggs, secondly
with crayfish tails arranged in a circle round the asparagus, and
thirdly with large slices of very black truffles arranged in a crown
around the crayfish tails.
481—SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TRUFFLES
Add one tablespoonful of truffles, cooked in Madeira and cut into dice,
to the scrambled eggs. Place these in a timbale, and garnish with a
crown of sliced truffles.
Or place the preparation in tartlet-crusts, made from trimmings of
puff-paste and baked without colouration, with a large slice of truffle
on the eggs, in each tartlet.
482—FRIED EGGS
In the long series of egg-preparations, fried eggs are those which hold
the least important place, for the fried eggs which are so commonly
served at breakfasts in England and America are really eggs _à la
poêle_. The real fried egg is almost unknown in England and America. As
a rule, the garnish given to this kind of eggs is served apart, while
the latter are dished, either on a napkin or on pieces of toast, with a
little fried parsley laid in the middle of the dish.
483—THE PREPARATION OF FRIED EGGS
Any fat, provided it be well purified, may be used for these eggs, but
oil is the more customary frying medium. To do these eggs properly,
only one should be dealt with at a time.
Heat some oil in an omelet-pan until it begins to smoke slightly; break
the egg on a plate; season it, and let it slide into the pan. Then,
with a wooden spoon, quickly cover up the yolk with the solidified
portions of the white, in order to keep the former soft.
Drain the egg on a piece of stretched linen, and proceed in the same
way with the other eggs until the required quantity has been treated.
484—FRIED EGGS A LA BORDELAISE
Prepare as many halved tomatoes à la Provençale (see tomatoes) as there
are eggs, adding a pinch of chopped shallots to each halved tomato.
When cooked, garnish them with _cèpes_, finely minced and _sautéd_ à
la Bordelaise; place a fried egg on each garnished half-tomato, and
arrange them in a circle on a dish, with fried parsley in the middle.
485—HARVESTERS’ FRIED EGGS
Fry as many _blanched_ rashers of breast of bacon as there are eggs.
Arrange in a circle on a dish, alternating the rasher with the eggs.
Garnish the centre with large peas, cooked with _ciseled_ lettuce and
finely-sliced potatoes.
486—FRIED POACHED EGGS
This kind is recommended, because it may be served with various
garnishes—either vegetables of the same nature, a _macédoine_,
vegetable purées, or divers cullises, sauces in keeping with the eggs,
artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, morels, &c. (sliced and _sautéd_ in
butter), or tomato-_fondue_, &c.
After having properly drained and dried the poached eggs, which should
have been prepared beforehand, dip them carefully in a Villeroy
sauce (No. 108), and arrange them, one by one, on a dish. When the
sauce has set, pass the point of a small knife round the eggs to
remove any excess of sauce; take them off the dish to treat them
with an _anglaise_ (No. 174), and then roll them in very fine, fresh
bread-crumbs.
Plunge them into very hot fat three or four minutes before serving;
drain them on a piece of linen; salt slightly, arrange in a circle on a
dish, and set the selected garnish in the middle.
487—FRIED EGGS A LA PORTUGAISE
Place each of the fried eggs upon a half-tomato à la Portugaise,
_i.e._, stuffed with rice after having been previously half-baked in
the oven. Arrange in a circle on a dish, and garnish the centre with
_concassed_ tomatoes _sautéd_ in butter.
488—FRIED EGGS A LA PROVENÇALE
Put each fried egg on a half-tomato on a large, thick slice of
egg-plant, seasoned, rolled in flour, and fried in oil.
Set in a circle on a dish, with fried parsley in the centre.
489—FRIED EGGS A LA ROMAINE
Place the eggs, fried in oil, on little, oval _subrics_ of spinach.
The preparation of spinach should have anchovy fillets, cut into dice,
added to it.
490—FRIED EGGS A LA VERDI
Cut six hard-boiled eggs lengthwise. Remove the yolks, pound them with
two oz. of butter, and add thereto two tablespoonfuls of thick, cold
Béchamel, two tablespoonfuls of cooked herbs, and one tablespoonful of
lean ham, cooked and chopped. Garnish each half-white of egg with a
good tablespoonful of this preparation, and smooth it with the blade of
a small knife, shaping it in such wise as to represent the other half
of the egg. Dip each whole egg, thus formed, into an _anglaise_, and
roll in fine, fresh bread-crumbs. Plunge in hot fat six minutes before
serving, and dish on a napkin, with fried parsley in the centre. Send,
separately, to the table a garnish composed of asparagus-heads.
491—FRIED POACHED EGGS A LA VILLEROY
Prepare the eggs, poached beforehand, as explained under No. 486. Fry
them similarly, and dish them on a napkin, with a garnish of fried
parsley in the centre.
=Omelets=
The procedure for omelets is at once very simple and very difficult,
for tastes differ considerably in respect of their preparation. Some
like them well done, others insist upon their being just done, while
there are yet others who only enjoy them when they are almost liquid.
Nevertheless, the following conditions apply to all—namely, that there
should be homogeneity of the egg-molecules; that the whole mass should
be smooth and soft; and that it should be borne in mind that an omelet
is in reality scrambled eggs enclosed in a coat composed of coagulated
egg.
I take as my standard an omelet consisting of three eggs, the seasoning
of which comprises a small pinch of table-salt and a little pepper,
and which requires one-half oz. of butter for its preparation. The
quantities of garnishing ingredients given below, therefore, are based
upon this standard.
492—THE PREPARATION OF OMELETS
Heat the butter in the omelet-pan, until it exhales the characteristic
nutty smell. This will not only lend an exquisite taste to the omelet,
but the degree of heat reached in order to produce the aroma will be
found to ensure the perfect setting of the eggs.
Pour in the beaten and seasoned eggs, and stir briskly with a fork, in
order to heat the whole mass evenly. If the omelet is to be garnished
inside, this ought to be done at the present stage, and then the omelet
should be speedily rolled up and transferred to a dish, to be finished
in accordance with the nature of its designation.
When the omelet is on the dish, a piece of butter may be quickly drawn
across its surface, to make it glossy.
493—AGNÈS SOREL OMELET
Stuff the omelet with one tablespoonful of mushrooms, minced and
_sautéd_ in butter. Roll it up, and transfer it to a dish.
Then lay eight small slices of very red tongue upon it, letting their
edges overlap; surround with a thread of veal gravy.
494—OMELET A LA BRUXELLOISE
Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of braised endives, _ciseled_
and thickened with cream. Surround with a thread of cream sauce.
495—OMELET WITH CÈPES
Finely mince two oz. of _cèpes_; toss them in butter in an omelet-pan
until they have acquired a brown colour; add thereto a pinch of chopped
shallots, and toss them again for a moment.
Pour the eggs into the omelet-pan; make the omelet; dish up, and
surround with a thread of half-glaze.
496—OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS
Mince two oz. of raw mushrooms; toss them in butter in an omelet-pan;
add the eggs thereto, and make the omelet. Transfer it to a dish, lay
three little cooked and grooved mushrooms upon it, and surround with a
thread of half-glaze.
497—OMELET A LA CHOISY
Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of braised lettuce; the latter
should have been _ciseled_ and cohered by means of cream sauce.
Roll and dish the omelet, and surround it with a thread of cream sauce.
498—OMELET A LA CLAMART
Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of fresh peas, bound by means
of butter and combined with a portion of the lettuce used in cooking
them, finely _ciseled_. Roll and dish the omelet, make an opening
lengthwise in the centre, and fill the interspace with a tablespoonful
of fresh peas.
499—OMELET WITH CRUSTS
Combine with the beaten and seasoned eggs two tablespoonfuls of small
crusts, cut into dice, fried in clarified butter, and very hot.
Make the omelet very quickly.
500—OMELET WITH SPINACH
Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of spinach with cream, and
surround with a thread of cream sauce.
501—OMELET A LA FERMIÈRE
Add to the beaten and seasoned eggs one tablespoonful of very lean,
cooked ham cut into dice. Pour the eggs into the omelet-pan, and cook
them quickly, taking care to keep them very soft. Let the outside
harden slightly; tilt into the dish after the manner of a pancake, and
besprinkle the surface with a pinch of chopped parsley.
502—OMELET AUX FINES HERBES
Add to the eggs one tablespoonful of parsley, chervil, chive,
and tarragon leaves, all to be finely chopped and almost equally
apportioned.
Make the omelet in the usual way.
503—OMELET WITH VEGETABLE MARROW FLOWERS
Add to the eggs one and one-half oz. of the calices of freshly-plucked
and young vegetable-marrow flowers; _cisel_ and stew them, and add
thereto a pinch of chopped parsley. Surround the omelet with a thread
of tomato sauce.
N.B.—This omelet may be made with oil, as well as with butter.
504—OMELET WITH CHICKEN’S LIVER
Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of chicken’s liver, which
should be cut into dice or finely sliced, seasoned, quickly _sautéd_ in
butter, and cohered with half-glaze. Dish the omelet, make an opening
lengthwise in the centre, and place one tablespoonful of chicken’s
liver, prepared as above, in the interspaces. Besprinkle with chopped
parsley, and surround the omelet with a thread of half-glaze.
505—OMELET WITH ARTICHOKE-BOTTOMS
Finely mince two small artichoke-bottoms (raw if possible), season
them, and slightly colour them in butter. Add the beaten and seasoned
eggs, and make the omelet in the usual way.
506—OMELET WITH YOUNG SHOOTS OF HOPS
Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of young shoots of hops,
cohered with cream, and finish it in the usual way. Open it slightly
along the top, and garnish with a few young shoots of hops put aside
for the purpose.
The omelet may be surrounded with a thread of cream sauce, but this is
optional.
507—OMELET A LA LYONNAISE
Finely mince half an onion, and cook it with butter in an omelet-pan,
letting it brown slightly. Add the eggs, with which a large pinch of
chopped parsley has been mixed, and make the omelet in the usual way.
508—OMELET MAXIM
Make the omelet in the usual way. Lay upon it alternate rows of
crayfish tails and slices of truffle. Surround the omelet with a fine
border of frogs’ legs “_sautéd_ à la Meunière,” _i.e._, seasoned raw,
rolled in flour, and _sautéd_ in butter until quite cooked and well
_gilded_.
509—OMELET WITH MORELS
Mince and toss in butter two oz. of very firm morels. Two should be put
aside, which, after having been cut in two, lengthwise, and _sautéd_
with the others, should be placed on a dish when the omelet is about to
be made. Having dished the latter, place the four _sautéd_ and reserved
pieces of morels upon it, and surround it with a thread of half-glaze.
510—OMELET MOUSSELINE
Beat the yolks of three eggs in a bowl with a small pinch of salt and
a tablespoonful of very thick cream. Add thereto the three whites,
whisked to a stiff froth, and pour this preparation into a wide
omelet-pan containing one oz. of very hot butter. _Sauté_ the omelet,
tossing it very quickly, and taking care to turn the outside edges of
the preparation constantly towards the centre; when the whole mass
seems uniformly set, roll the omelet up quickly, and dish it. This
omelet should be sent to the table immediately.
510a—OMELET WITH MOUSSERONS
Mince two oz. of very fresh _mousserons_; toss them in butter in the
omelet-pan; add thereto the eggs mixed with a pinch of chopped parsley;
make the omelet, dish it, and surround it with a thread of half-glaze.
511—OMELET A LA NANTUA
Add to the omelet six little crayfishes’ tails, each of which must be
cut into three, and the whole mixed with a little Nantua sauce. Put
two fine crayfishes’ tails on the omelet, making them touch at their
thicker ends, and surround with a thread of Nantua sauce.
512—OMELET PARMENTIER
Add a pinch of chopped parsley to the eggs, and, when about to pour the
latter into the omelet-pan, add two tablespoonfuls of potato cut into
dice, seasoned, _sautéd_ in butter, and very hot. Make the omelet in
the usual way.
513—OMELET A LA PAYSANNE
Frizzle with butter, in the omelet-pan, two oz. of breast of bacon cut
into dice. Add to the eggs one tablespoonful of finely-sliced potatoes
_sautéd_ in butter, one-half tablespoonful of _ciseled_ sorrel stewed
in butter, and a pinch of _concassed_ chervil.
Pour the whole over the bacon-dice; cook the eggs quickly, keeping
them soft; turn the omelet after the manner of a pancake, and tilt it
immediately on to a round dish.
514—OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS-TOPS
Add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of blanched asparagus-tops, stewed
in butter, to the omelet. Having dished the omelet, open it along
the middle, and lay a nice little faggot of asparagus-tops in the
interspace.
515—OMELET A LA PROVENÇALE
Rub the bottom of the omelet-pan lightly with a clove of garlic; put
two tablespoonfuls of oil into the utensil, and heat it until it smokes.
Throw into the oil a fine, peeled, pressed, and pipped tomato, cut
into dice and besprinkled with a pinch of _concassed_ parsley. Cook it
quickly, tossing it the while, and add it to the beaten and seasoned
eggs. Make the omelet in the usual way.
N.B.—The nature of this preparation demands the use of oil in treating
the tomato, but, failing oil, clarified butter may be used.
516—OMELET WITH KIDNEYS
Add to the omelet a tablespoonful of calf’s or sheep’s kidney, cut into
dice, seasoned with salt and pepper, _sautéd_ quickly in butter, and
cohered by means of half-glaze. Having dished the omelet, divide it
down the middle, lay some reserved kidney-dice in the interspace, and
surround with a thread of half-glaze.
517—OMELET A LA ROSSINI
Add to the beaten and seasoned eggs one dessertspoonful of cooked
foie gras and as much truffle, cut into small dice. Having dished the
omelet, place in the middle thereof a small rectangular piece of heated
foie gras, and two slices of truffle on either side of the latter.
Surround it with a thread of half-glaze flavoured with truffle essence.
518—OMELET WITH TRUFFLES
Add to the omelet one tablespoonful of truffles, cut into dice. Make
the omelet, dish it, and lay a row of fine slices of truffles upon it.
Surround it with a thread of melted meat-glaze.
519—HOT LAPWINGS’ AND PLOVERS’ EGGS
_Note._—In the chapter on hors-d’œuvres, where recipes were given
which deal with lapwings’ eggs, I made a few remarks relative to their
freshness, and indicated the procedure for boiling them soft and hard.
520—SCRAMBLED LAPWINGS’ EGGS
Proceed as for ordinary scrambled eggs, all the recipes given for the
latter being perfectly applicable to lapwings’ eggs. They require,
however, very great care in their preparation, and it should be borne
in mind that one ordinary hen’s egg is equal to about three lapwings’
eggs.
521—LAPWINGS’ EGGS A LA DANOISE
Poach the eggs as directed in the recipe dealing with the process, and
dish them up in tartlet-crusts garnished with a purée of smoked salmon.
522—OMELET OF LAPWINGS’ EGGS
Proceed as for other omelets, but one ordinary hen’s egg is generally
added to every six lapwings’ eggs in order to give more body to the
preparation. All the omelet recipes already given may be applied to
lapwings’ eggs.
523—LAPWINGS’ EGGS A LA ROYALE
Garnish as many small tartlet moulds as there are eggs with
chicken-forcemeat. Poach, turn out the moulds, and hollow out the
centres of the tartlets in such wise as to be able to set an egg
upright in each.
Place a soft- or hard-boiled egg on each forcemeat tartlet, coat the
eggs with a light purée of mushrooms, besprinkle with chopped truffles,
and arrange in a circle on a dish.
524—LAPWINGS’ EGGS AU TROUBADOUR
Select as many large morels as there are eggs. Remove the stalks, and
widen the openings of the morels; season them, and stew them in butter.
Boil the lapwings’ eggs soft.
Garnish each stewed morel with an egg; set them on little
tartlet-crusts garnished with a light, foie-gras purée, and arrange
them in a circle on a dish.
=Cold Eggs=
The preparation of cold eggs is not limited by classical rules; it
rests with the skill and artistic imagination of the operator, and,
since fancifulness and originality are always closely allied to
artistic imagination, it follows that the varieties evolved may be
infinite.
Indeed, so various and numerous are the recipes dealing with this kind
of egg-preparations that I must limit myself to a selection only of the
more customary ones, culled as far as possible from my own repertory.
525—COLD EGGS ALEXANDRA
Take some cold, well-trimmed, poached eggs; dry them and cover them
with a white chaud-froid sauce. Place a fine indented slice of truffle
in the centre of each, and sprinkle with a cold, white, melted aspic
jelly until they are thinly coated therewith. Slip the point of a small
knife round each egg with the view of moving them more easily, and
transfer them to oval tartlet-crusts made from puff-paste trimmings,
baked without colouration.
Lay a border of caviare round the eggs; dish them in the form of a
crown, and put some chopped jelly in the centre.
526—COLD EGGS A L’ANDALOUSE
Cover some cold, well-dried, poached eggs with a tomato purée combined
with a full third of its volume of Soubise purée and one-half pint of
melted aspic jelly per pint of sauce. Cut some pimentos, marinaded
in oil, into very thin strips, and lay these, after the manner of a
lattice, upon each egg.
Now garnish as many oiled, oval tartlet-moulds as there are eggs with
tomato purée, thickened with jelly, and let the garnish set on ice.
Turn out the moulds, and put an egg upon each of the tomato tartlets;
arrange the latter in a circle on a dish surrounded with a chain
composed of linked rings of onion, and garnish the centre with chopped,
white jelly.
527—COLD EGGS ARGENTEUIL
Coat some well-dried, soft-boiled eggs, slightly cut at their base to
make them stand, with a white chaud-froid sauce combined with a good
third of its volume of asparagus-tops purée. Sprinkle repeatedly with
cold, melted, white jelly, until a glossy coating is obtained.
Garnish the centre of a dish with a salad of asparagus-tops; surround
this with fine slices of cold potato, cooked in water and cut up with
an even fancy-cutter, one inch in diameter, and arrange the eggs all
round.
528—COLD EGGS CAPUCINE
Carefully dry some cold, poached eggs, and half-coat them lengthwise
with a white chaud-froid sauce; complete the coating on the other side
with a smooth purée of truffles, thickened with jelly. Leave these two
coats to set, placing the eggs in the cool or on ice for that purpose.
Garnish the centre of a round dish with a small pyramid of cold,
truffled Brandade of _morue_, and set the eggs round the latter.
529—COLD EGGS CARÊME
Cook the eggs on the dish, leave them to cool, and trim them with
an even fancy-cutter, oval in shape. Place each egg on an oval
tartlet-crust, garnished with dice of cooked salmon, cohered with
mayonnaise.
Surround with a thread of caviare, and lay a thin slice of very black
truffle on each egg.
530—COLD EGGS COLBERT
Garnish some small, oval moulds in _Chartreuse fashion_, _i.e._, like
a draught-board. Put a small, cold, poached egg into each mould, fill
up with melted, white jelly, and leave to set. Garnish the centre of a
dish with a heaped vegetable salad; arrange the eggs taken from their
moulds around this, and surround with a little chopped jelly.
531—COLD EGGS COLINETTE
Let a thin coat of white jelly set upon the bottom and sides of
some small, oval moulds. Garnish the latter with some small dice,
consisting of white of egg and truffles, placing them so as to simulate
a draught-board; now insert a very small, cold, poached egg into each
mould, and fill up with a melted jelly.
Garnish the centre of a dish with a “Rachel” salad, encircled by a ring
of sliced, cold potatoes, cooked in water, and place the eggs, removed
from their moulds, all round. Border the dish with indented crescents
of white jelly.
532—COLD EGGS WITH TARRAGON
Mould these in _baba-moulds_, or in porcelain _cocottes_; sometimes
they may simply be dished up on small tartlet-crusts.
The preparation consists of poached or soft-boiled eggs, garnished
with blanched tarragon leaves, or coated or moulded with a very fine
tarragon jelly.
533—COLD EGGS, FROU-FROU
Select some very small poached eggs of equal size, cover them with a
white chaud-froid sauce combined with about a third of its volume of a
purée of hard-boiled egg-yolks.
Garnish the top of each egg with an indented ring of very black
truffle, and surround the base of the eggs with a narrow ribbon
composed of chopped truffles. Glaze with jelly, and leave to set on ice.
Prepare a salad of green vegetables (peas, French beans cut into dice
or lozenges, asparagus-tops); thicken it with a very little mayonnaise
mixed with melted jelly. Pour this preparation into an oiled mould,
and leave it to set. For dishing, turn out the salad in the middle of
a dish; surround the base with a line of chopped jelly; encircle the
whole with the eggs, letting them rest on the jelly, and garnish the
dish with a border of dice cut in very clear, white jelly.
534—COLD EGGS MOSCOVITE
Slightly level both ends of some shelled, hard-boiled eggs. Surround
the tops and the bases with three little anchovy fillets, and place a
bit of truffle just half-way along each egg. Eggs prepared in this way
resemble little barrels, whereof the anchovy fillets imitate the iron
hoops, and the bits of truffle the bungs. By means of a tubular cutter
empty the eggs with care; garnish them with caviare, and shape the
latter to a point, outside the edges of the egg.
Lay each egg in an artichoke-bottom, cooked white, and garnished with
finely-chopped jelly, and arrange them in a circle on a dish with
chopped jelly in the centre.
535—COLD EGGS A LA NANTUA
Prepare some hard-boiled eggs to resemble little barrels, after the
manner described above. For every six eggs keep ready and cold eighteen
crayfish cooked à la Bordelaise. Shell the tails, put two aside for
each egg, and cut the remainder into dice; finely pound the bodies
and remains, add thereto three tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and rub
through tammy. Add to this cullis one tablespoonful of thick mayonnaise.
Bind the crayfish tails, cut into dice, with a few tablespoonfuls of
this sauce, and garnish the eggs, emptied by the method indicated
above, with the preparation of dice, making it stand out of the eggs in
the shape of a small dome. Garnish each dome with a rosette composed of
four halved crayfish tails and four truffle lozenges.
Glaze well with jelly; set the eggs upon artichoke-bottoms garnished
with a mayonnaise with crayfish cullis, and arrange in a circle on a
dish.
536—COLD EGGS POLIGNAC
Prepare some eggs à la Polignac, as explained under “Moulded Eggs,”
and leave them to cool. Select some moulds a little larger than those
used in the cooking of the eggs; pour into each half a tablespoonful of
melted, white jelly, and leave to set. Then put an egg into each mould,
and fill up the space around the eggs with melted, white jelly.
Leave to set, turn out the moulds, arrange the mouldings on a dish, and
surround them with dice of faintly coloured jelly.
537—COLD EGGS A LA REINE
Prepare some soft-boiled eggs, and leave them to cool. Take as many
cottage brioches as there are eggs; trim them to the level of the
fluting, and remove the crumb from the inside, so as to form little
_croustades_ of them. Garnish the bottom and the sides of these
_croustades_ with a fine mince of white chicken-meat, thickened with
mayonnaise, and season moderately with cayenne. Place a shelled,
soft-boiled egg in each _croustade_; coat thinly with mayonnaise
slightly thickened by means of a jelly; lay a fine piece of truffle on
each egg, and, when the sauce has set, glaze with jelly, using a fine
brush for the purpose.
Dish up on a napkin.
538—COLD EGGS, RUBENS
Season some cooked young shoots of hops with salt and freshly-ground
pepper; add thereto some chopped parsley and chervil, and a purée of
plainly-cooked tomatoes combined with just sufficient jelly to ensure
the cohesion of the hops. Mould in oiled tartlet-moulds.
Coat some well-dried, cold, poached eggs with white chaud-froid sauce;
garnish with pieces of tarragon leaves, and glaze with jelly.
Turn out the tartlet-moulds; set an egg on each of the mouldings, and
arrange them in a circle on a dish, placing between each egg a piece of
very clear jelly, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.
Garnish the centre of the dish with chopped jelly.
CHAPTER XIII
SOUPS
Soups are divided into two leading classes, viz.:—
1. Clear soups, which include plain and garnished consommés.
2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.
A third class, which is independent of either of the above, inasmuch as
it forms part of plain, household cookery, embraces vegetable soups and
Garbures or _gratined_ soups. But in important dinners—by this I mean
rich dinners—only the first two classes are recognised.
When a menu contains two soups, one must be clear and the other thick.
If only one is to be served, it may be either clear or thick, in which
case the two kinds are represented alternately at different meals.
In Part I. of this work I indicated the general mode of procedure
for consommés and thick soups; I explained how the latter might be
converted from plain purées into veloutés or creams, or from veloutés
into creams; and all that now remains is to reveal the recipes proper
to each of those soups.
_Remarks._—In the course of the recipes for consommés, given hereafter,
the use of Royales (Nos. 206 to 213) and of Quenelles, variously
prepared (Nos. 193 to 195 and 205), will often be enjoined. For the
preparation of these garnishes, therefore, the reader will have to
refer to the numbers indicated.
The quantities for the clear soups that follow are all calculated to
be sufficient for a standard number of six people, and the quantity
of Royales is always given in so many _dariole-moulds_, which contain
about one-eighth pint, or _baba-moulds_, which hold about one-fifth
pint.
Of course, it will be understood that the poaching need not necessarily
have been effected in these moulds, for very small “Charlotte” moulds
would do quite as well. But I had recourse to the particular utensils
mentioned above, in order that there might be no sort of doubt as to
the exact quantity of royale it would be necessary to prepare for any
one of the soups.
=Clear Soups and Garnished Consommés=
539—CONSOMMÉ ALEXANDRA
Have a quart of excellent chicken consommé ready; add thereto, in
order to thicken it slightly, three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca,
strained through muslin, and very clear.
Put the following garnish into the soup-tureen: One tablespoonful of
white chicken-meat cut in fine _julienne-fashion_, one tablespoonful
of small chicken quenelles, grooved and long in shape, and one
tablespoonful of lettuce _chiffonade_.
Pour the boiling consommé upon this garnish, and send to the table
immediately.
540—CONSOMMÉ AMBASSADRICE
Have one quart of chicken consommé ready; also there should have been
prepared beforehand, with the view of using them quite cold, three
different kinds of royales, consisting respectively of truffle purée,
tomato purée, and purée of peas, each of which should have been poached
in a _dariole-mould_.
Cut these royales up into regular dice, and put them in the soup-tureen
with one tablespoonful of chicken fillet and an equal quantity of
small, freshly-cooked mushrooms, finely minced. Pour the boiling
consommé over these garnishes, and serve at once.
541—CONSOMMÉ ANDALOUSE
Prepare a _baba-mould_ of royale made from tomato purée. When quite
cold, cut it into dice, and put these in the soup-tureen with one
small tablespoonful of cooked ham cut in _julienne-fashion_, one
tablespoonful of boiled rice, with every grain distinct and separate,
and two tablespoonfuls of threaded eggs (No. 217).
When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear chicken consommé over
the garnish.
542—CONSOMMÉ D’ARENBERG
With a small spoon-cutter, pick out a spoonful of carrot pearls and the
same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables by boiling them
in consommé, taking care that the latter be reduced to a glaze when
the vegetables are cooked. With the same spoon take the same quantity
as above of very black truffle; also prepare a _dariole-mould_ of
royale made from asparagus heads, and a dozen small chicken-forcemeat
quenelles, which should be moulded to the shape of large pearls.
Poach the quenelles, cut the royales up into slices, which must be
stamped with an indented fancy-cutter, and put the whole into the
soup-tureen with the carrots, turnips, and truffle pearls, and one
tablespoonful of very green peas.
Pour a quart of chicken consommé over the garnish, and send to the
table at once.
543—CONSOMMÉ A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of foie-gras royale, and twelve
_profiterolles_ (No. 218) of the size of hazel-nuts, the latter being
made very crisp.
When the royale is cold, cut it into little, regular squares, and put
these into the soup-tureen.
When about to serve, pour over this garnish a quart of chicken
consommé, thickened by means of three tablespoonfuls of tapioca,
poached and strained through linen.
Send the _profiterolles_ to the table separately, and very hot.
544—CONSOMMÉ BOÏELDIEU
Prepare eighteen chicken-forcemeat quenelles, moulded by means of a
small teaspoon; some should be stuffed with foie-gras purée, moistened
with a little velouté; others with chicken purée; and yet others with
truffle purée—in short, six of each kind.
Place these, one by one, on a buttered sauté-pan; poach them, drain
them, and put them in the soup-tureen with a tablespoonful of white
chicken-meat, cut into dice.
When about to serve, pour one quart of chicken consommé, thickened as
above with tapioca, over the garnish.
545—CONSOMMÉ BOUQUETIERE
Prepare a garnish of carrots and turnips, cut with the tubular cutter
or with the spoon; French beans cut into lozenges, asparagus-heads, and
green peas, all of which vegetables should be fresh and young. Cook
each vegetable according to its nature, and put the whole into the
soup-tureen.
When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of chicken
consommé thickened with two tablespoonfuls of tapioca, poached and
strained through fine linen.
546—CONSOMMÉ BOURDALOUE
Prepare a _dariole-mould_ of each of the four following royales:—
1. Of a purée of haricot-beans with a slight addition of tomato.
2. Of a chicken purée moistened with velouté.
3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach
leaves, to deepen the colour.
4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy).
Having poached and cooled the royales, cut them as follows:—
(1) Into dice, (2) into lozenges, (3) into little leaves, and (4) into
stars.
Place them all in the soup-tureen, and, when about to serve, pour one
quart of boiling and very clear chicken consommé over them.
547—POTAGE BORTSCH
Cut in _julienne-fashion_ the heads of two leeks, one carrot, half
of an onion, four oz. of the white of cabbage leaves, half a root of
parsley, the white part of a stick of celery, and four oz. of beetroot;
set the whole to stew gently in butter.
Moisten with one quart of white consommé and two or three
tablespoonfuls of the juice of grated beetroot; add a small bunch of
fennel and sweet marjoram, two lbs. of moderately fat breast of beef,
and the half of a semi-roasted duck; set to cook gently for four hours.
When about to serve, cut the breast of beef into large dice, and cut
the duck into small slices; finish the soup with one-quarter pint of
beetroot juice, extracted from grated beetroot pressed in linen, and
a little blanched and chopped fennel and parsley. Put the beef dice
and sliced duck into the soup, with twelve grilled and despumated
_chipolatas_.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat of sour cream.
N.B.—The _chipolatas_ may be replaced by very small patties with duck
forcemeat, which should be served separately.
548—CONSOMMÉ BRUNOISE
Cut into small dice the red part only of two small carrots, one small
turnip, the heads of two leeks, a small stick of celery, and the third
of an onion of medium size.
Season the vegetables moderately with salt and a pinch of sugar, and
stew them in butter. Moisten with one-half pint of consommé, and
complete the cooking of the Brunoise gently. Five minutes before
serving, finish with one quart of boiling, ordinary consommé, a
moderate tablespoonful of peas, and the same quantity of French beans,
cut into dice and kept very green.
Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_.
549—CONSOMMÉ CARMEN
Prepare one quart of consommé, to which add, while clarifying,
one-quarter pint of raw tomato purée, in order to give it a faint, pink
tinge.
Also peel and press a small and rather firm tomato; cut into dice,
and poach the latter in some of the consommé; put them in the
soup-tureen with a small tablespoonful of mild capsicum, cut in fine
_julienne-fashion_, and one tablespoonful of plain-boiled rice.
When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish, and
add a small pinch of chervil _pluches_.
550—CONSOMMÉ CASTELLANE
Prepare (1) one quart of game consommé, flavoured with a _fumet_ of
woodcock; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale, two-thirds of which consists
of a purée of woodcock and one-third of lentils, with half the yolk of
a hard-boiled egg, chopped and thickened with the usual leason.
Cut this royale into slices, about the size of a florin, one-half inch
thick. Put these into the soup-tureen, together with one tablespoonful
of a _julienne_ of roast woodcock fillets, and pour thereon the boiling
game consommé.
551—CONSOMMÉ CÉLESTINE
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto three small
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through fine linen.
For the garnish make three _pannequets_ (No. 2403 and 2476) without
sugar, and spread over each a thin coating of chicken forcemeat with
cream. Place one on top of the other, sprinkle the layer of forcemeat
on the uppermost one with finely-chopped, very black truffles, and
place in the front of the oven for a few minutes, in order to poach the
forcemeat.
Stamp the _pannequets_ out with an even fancy-cutter about one inch in
diameter. Put the pieces into a soup-tureen, and, when about to serve,
pour in the boiling consommé.
552—CONSOMMÉ CHARTREUSE
Prepare (1) eighteen small _ravioles_ (No. 2296)—six from spinach
purée, six from foie-gras purée, and the remaining six from chopped
mushrooms; (2) two small tablespoonfuls of tomato dice. Ten minutes
before serving, poach the _ravioles_ in boiling, salted water, and the
tomato dice in some of the consommé.
Put the ravioles and the tomato dice (well drained) into the
soup-tureen, and pour over them one quart of consommé with a moderate
addition of tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
553—CONSOMMÉ AUX CHEVEUX D’ANGE
About two minutes before serving, plunge three oz. of very fine
vermicelli, known as Angel’s Hair (Cheveux d’Ange) into one quart of
excellent, boiling consommé.
An instant only is needed to poach the vermicelli, and the latter does
not require to be blanched.
This soup, like those containing pastes, should be accompanied by
freshly-grated Parmesan cheese.
554—CONSOMMÉ COLBERT
Have ready one quart of excellent _Printanier_ chicken consommé
(No. 601). Also poach six small eggs in slightly salted and acidulated
water. The eggs should be as small and as fresh as possible, both of
which conditions are absolutely necessary for a proper poaching (see
poached eggs, No. 411). Set these eggs in a small timbale with a
little consommé, and send them to the table with the Printanier. Having
poured the latter into the plates, put one of the eggs into each of
these.
555—CONSOMMÉ COLOMBINE
Prepare a good tablespoonful of carrot pearls, and as many turnip
pearls, keeping the latter very white. Cook them in the customary way,
and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of very green
peas, one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of roast-pigeon fillets, and
six poached pigeons’ eggs, which latter should be sent to the table in
a timbale at the same time as the consommé.
Pour over the other garnish one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken
consommé, and serve immediately.
This soup can only appear on summer and spring menus, when the pigeons’
eggs are in season.
556—CROÛTE AU POT
Prepare a freshly-cooked vegetable garnish for a stockpot:—Carrots and
turnips cut into small sticks and trimmed; a few heads of leeks, and
cabbage, parboiled, minced, and cooked in very fat consommé.
Put these vegetables in a somewhat greasy broth for ten minutes.
Also prepare seven or eight crusts of French soup “_flutes_”;
besprinkle them with stock grease, and dry them in the oven. Put the
vegetable garnish into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of
consommé of the Petite Marmite (No. 598), and add to the dried crusts.
557—CONSOMMÉ CYRANO
Prepare (1) one quart of consommé with a _fumet_ of duck; (2) twelve
small quenelles of duck forcemeat, which should be made flat and oval.
Having poached the quenelles, drain them, and set them in a small,
shallow earthen pan or timbale; sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan
cheese and a few drops of chicken glaze, and set to glaze in the oven.
The quenelles are served separately in the pan in which they have been
glazed, and the consommé is sent to the table in a soup-tureen.
558—CONSOMMÉ DEMIDOFF
With the small spoon-cutter, pick out a good tablespoonful of carrot,
and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables in the
customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful
of truffle pearls, the same quantity of peas, and small, poached,
chicken-forcemeat quenelles with herbs. Pour one quart of boiling
chicken consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil
_pluches_.
559—CONSOMMÉ DESLIGNAC
Prepare (1) two small, stuffed lettuces, rolled into sausage form and
poached; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream. Cut the royale
into small, regular dice; trim the lettuce, and cut it into slices;
put this garnish into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart
of boiling chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls
of poached tapioca, strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil
_pluches_.
560—CONSOMMÉ AUX DIABLOTINS
Cut a French soup “_flute_” into twelve slices one-quarter inch thick.
Reduce about one-quarter pint of Béchamel to a thick consistence;
add thereto, away from the fire, two heaped tablespoonfuls of grated
Gruyère cheese, and season with a little cayenne.
Garnish the slices of soup “flute” with this preparation, arranged in
the form of a dome, upon a tray, and set it to glaze a few minutes
before serving.
Pour one quart of chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and add the
diablotins.
561—CONSOMMÉ DIPLOMATE
Roll into small sausage-form three oz. of chicken forcemeat, finished
with crayfish butter. Poach the sausages, cut them into thin roundels,
and put them into the soup-tureen with one dessertspoonful of very
black truffle, cut in _julienne-fashion_.
Pour over this garnish one quart of boiling chicken consommé, thickened
with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.
562—CONSOMMÉ DIVETTE
Prepare two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from crayfish velouté,
eighteen small quenelles of smelt forcemeat, moulded to the shape of
pearls, and one tablespoonful of small pearls of very black truffle.
Cut the royale into oval slices, and put these into the soup with the
poached quenelles and the truffle pearls.
Pour one quart of very clear, boiling consommé over the garnish.
563—CONSOMMÉ DORIA
Prepare the following garnish:—Thirty pellets of cucumber in the shape
of large pearls; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, long in
shape and grooved; six little pellets, about the size of a large pea,
of _pâte à choux_, combined with grated cheese, rolled by hand; and one
and one-half tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls, poached in some of the
consommé.
Put the cucumber pellets, cooked in consommé, into the soup-tureen; add
the poached quenelles and the Japanese pearls.
Four minutes before serving, plunge the pellets of _pâte à choux_ into
hot fat, keeping them crisp.
When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of boiling chicken
consommé; complete with a pinch of chervil _pluches_, and serve the
little, fried pellets separately.
564—CONSOMMÉ DOUGLAS
With an even cutter, the size of a penny, cut up some braised and
cooled sweetbread into twelve roundels one-third inch thick; with
the same cutter cut out twelve more roundels from some cooked
artichoke-bottoms, and put the whole into the soup-tureen with two
tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads.
When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling, highly seasoned,
ordinary consommé upon the garnish.
565—CONSOMMÉ A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Prepare a special mutton broth, and, at the same time, cook a fine
piece of breast of mutton for the garnish.
Per two quarts of broth, put into the soup-tureen four tablespoonfuls
of pearl-barley, cooked very gently beforehand; two tablespoonfuls
of French beans, cut into lozenges, and the breast of mutton cut
into regular dice of one-half inch side, in the proportion of one
tablespoonful for each person.
Pour the boiling mutton broth over this garnish, after having removed
all the grease and strained it through linen.
566—CONSOMMÉ FAVORITE
With a spoon-cutter, pick from out some violet potatoes eighteen
pellets the size of small hazel-nuts, and cook them in salted water
in good time for them to be ready for the dishing up of the soup. Put
them in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of
artichoke-bottoms and the same quantity of cooked mushrooms, also cut
in _julienne-fashion_.
Pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with
three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
566a—CONSOMMÉ A LA FERMIÈRE
Mince, somewhat finely, one small carrot, one small turnip, the heads
of two leeks, and the half of an onion. Slightly stew these vegetables
in one and one-half oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints
of white consommé; add two oz. of parboiled cabbage, cut roughly into a
_julienne_, and complete the cooking gently, taking care to remove all
grease, with the view of obtaining a very clear consommé.
Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a few thin slices of French soup
“_flute_,” slightly dried.
567—CONSOMMÉ FLORENTINE
With fine chicken forcemeat make twenty-four small quenelles on a
buttered tray, their shape being that of small Mecca loaves. To the
forcemeat of six of these quenelles add some very finely chopped
tongue; add white chicken-meat to that of another six; and to that of
the remaining twelve add some very reduced spinach purée. The quenelles
with spinach should number twice those with the other two ingredients,
in order that the preparation may be in keeping with its designation “à
la Florentine.”
Poach the quenelles; put them in the soup-tureen with two
tablespoonfuls of very green, cooked peas.
When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken
consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
568—CONSOMMÉ GAULOISE
Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ham royale, and poach the latter in
a small, well-buttered Charlotte mould. When quite cold, cut it into
large lozenges, and put these into the soup-tureen with six small
cocks’ combs and six small cocks’ kidneys (these latter as small as
possible).
When about to serve, pour over this garnish one quart of chicken
consommé, thickened slightly with two tablespoonfuls of poached
tapioca, strained through linen.
569—CONSOMMÉ GEORGE SAND
Have ready one quart of consommé flavoured with very clear fish
_fumet_. Also prepare twelve small quenelles of whiting forcemeat,
finished with crayfish butter; stew twelve morels, which should be
left whole if very small, and cut into two if they are of medium size;
twelve small slices of poached carps’ milt, and twelve little roundels
of French soup “_flutes_.”
Put the poached quenelles and the stewed morels into the soup-tureen;
pour therein the boiling, fish consommé, and send the slices of carps’
milt set on the roundels of French soup “_flute_” separately to the
table.
570—CONSOMMÉ GERMAINE
Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a purée of very green
peas, combined with a tablespoonful of Mirepoix stewed in butter, and a
strong pinch of small, chervil _pluches_; eighteen small quenelles of
chicken forcemeat with cream, moulded to the form of pastils.
When the royale is cold, cut it into regular roundels, and put these
into the soup-tureen with the poached quenelles.
When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over
the garnish.
571—CONSOMMÉ GIRONDINE
Prepare (1) one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé; (2) two
_baba-moulds_ of ordinary royale made with whole eggs and combined with
two tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped lean ham; (3) three
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots (the red part only) stewed in
butter, the cooking of which should be completed in the consommé.
Put the royale, cut into large, regular lozenges, and the _julienne_ of
carrots into the soup-tureen, and pour in the boiling beef consommé.
572—CONSOMMÉ GRIMALDI
Have ready one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, to which have
been added, while clarifying, four tablespoonfuls of raw tomato purée,
strained through fine linen.
Also prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and three
tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of the white of celery, stewed in
butter, finally cooked in the consommé, and with all grease removed.
Put the royale, cut into large dice, and the _julienne_ of celery into
the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé with tomatoes.
573—CONSOMMÉ IMPERIALE
Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of mousseline forcemeat of fowl
(No. 195), and put it to poach in a small Charlotte mould.
When quite cold, cut it, by means of a cutter, into roundels the size
of a penny, and put these in the soup-tureen with six small _blanched_
cocks’ combs and three sliced cocks’ kidneys, and two tablespoonfuls of
very green peas.
Pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with
three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
574—CONSOMMÉ A L’INDIENNE
Have ready one quart of ordinary consommé seasoned with curry. Also
prepare three _baba-moulds_ of royale made from cocoanut milk, and,
when quite cold, cut into small dice.
Put this royale into the soup-tureen; pour on it the boiling consommé
with curry, and send to the table, separately, four tablespoonfuls of
Rice à l’Indienne (No. 2254).
575—CONSOMMÉ A L’INFANTE
With some _pâte à choux_ (No. 2374) prepare eighteen _profiterolles_ of
the size of hazel-nuts. Cook them, taking care to keep them very crisp,
and stuff them when cold with purée de foie gras moistened with velouté.
Put two tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of mild capsicum into the
soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consommé,
moderately thickened with poached tapioca strained through linen.
Serve the _profiterolles_ of foie gras separately, after having heated
them in the front of the oven.
N.B.—The garnish of Consommé à l’Infante may consist only of the
_profiterolles_, and the _julienne_ of capsicum may be suppressed; this
is a matter of taste.
576—CONSOMMÉ JACQUELINE
With a small spoon-cutter, pick from out some carrots twenty-four
little oval pellets, which should be cooked in the consommé. Prepare
two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream.
Put into the soup-tureen the pellets of carrots and the royale cut to
the shape of pastils, one tablespoonful of peas, the same quantity of
very green asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful of rice.
When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over
this garnish.
576a—CONSOMMÉ JULIENNE
Cut into fillets, two inches in length, the red part only of two
medium-sized carrots, one medium-sized turnip, one leek, half a
stick of celery, some cabbage leaves, and half an onion. Season these
vegetables with a pinch of salt and as much castor sugar; stew them
in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints of white
consommé, and then add two oz. of small parboiled cabbages, cut after
the manner of the other vegetables.
Finish the cooking gently, removing the grease the while, and
complete with one small tablespoonful of very green, cooked peas, one
tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and one pinch of
chervil _pluches_.
577—CONSOMMÉ LORETTE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé. Also prepare two
tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of celery stewed in butter and
cooked in the consommé; twelve small “pommes à la lorette” (No. 2226),
the size of hazel-nuts, and shaped like small crescents. These potatoes
should be fried in hot fat four minutes before serving.
Put into the soup-tureen the _julienne_ of celery, twelve small,
freshly-poached cocks’ kidneys, and one tablespoonful of a _julienne_
of pimentos; pour the boiling consommé over this garnish; add a pinch
of chervil _pluches_, and send the lorette potatoes to the table
separately.
578—CONSOMMÉ MACDONALD
Prepare (1) one quart of highly seasoned beef consommé, (2) two
_dariole-moulds_ of brain-purée royale; (3) two tablespoonfuls of
cucumbers cut into small dice and cooked in consommé until the latter
is reduced to a glaze; (4) five little _ravioles_ garnished with
chicken forcemeat combined with a third of its volume of spinach. Put
these _ravioles_ to poach in salted boiling water twelve minutes before
serving.
Put into the soup-tureen the royale of brains cut into roundels
one-third inch thick, the dice of cucumber, and the _ravioles_ poached
and well drained.
Pour the boiling beef consommé over this garnish just before serving.
579—CONSOMMÉ MARGUERITE
Take two tablespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat with cream, and roll it
into sausage-form on the floured mixing-board. Put the sausage to
poach. Rub the yolk of an egg through a fine sieve, and cohere it with
half a teaspoonful of raw forcemeat.
Having poached and cooled the chicken sausage, cut it into thin
roundels, and stamp each roundel with a fancy-cutter to the shape of a
marguerite. Arrange the marguerites on a dish, and lay in the middle of
each a bit of the egg and forcemeat, in imitation of the flower-centre.
Put these marguerites into the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of
small, green asparagus cut into lengths of one inch. When about to
serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé over this
garnish.
580—CONSOMMÉ MARQUISE
Prepare one quart of good, ordinary consommé, to which three sticks of
celery have been added, while clarifying, in order that the taste of
the celery may be very decided.
Make thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with
finely-chopped filberts, giving them the shape of pastils.
Poach these quenelles ten minutes before serving. Also poach in
_court-bouillon_ two calf’s piths, and cut them into thin roundels.
Put the poached quenelles and the roundels of calf’s piths into the
soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
581—CONSOMMÉ MERCÉDÈS
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé with pimentos, combined, at the
last minute, away from the fire, with one-half pint of sherry.
Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of capsicum, cut in fine
_julienne-fashion_ and short, and some small, freshly-cooked cocks’
combs.
When about to serve, pour the consommé over this garnish.
582—CONSOMMÉ MESSALINE
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto, while
clarifying, one-quarter pint of tomato essence, obtained by reducing
the moisture contained by the tomato to a syrup.
Put into the soup-tureen twelve small, freshly-poached cocks’ combs,
two tablespoonfuls of Spanish capsicum cut into a _julienne_ and
poached in the consommé if fresh (this should have been previously
grilled, with the view of removing the skins), and two tablespoonfuls
of poached rice, every grain of which should be distinct.
Pour the boiling consommé over this garnish.
583—CONSOMMÉ METTERNICH
Prepare one quart of game consommé with pheasant _fumet_. Also poach
two _dariole-moulds_ of royale, made from a purée of artichokes
combined with some tablespoonfuls of the reduced game Espagnole.
Cut this royale into dice; put these into a soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of pheasant fillets, and pour thereon the
boiling consommé.
584—CONSOMMÉ A LA MILANAISE
Cook in slightly salted boiling water two oz. of moderately thick
macaroni. As soon as it is cooked, drain it, lay it on a piece of
linen, and cut it into small rings. Also prepare one-quarter pint of
Béchamel, thickened with the yolk of one egg combined with one oz. of
grated cheese, and keep it very dense.
Mix the rings of macaroni with this sauce; spread the whole on a dish,
and leave to cool. Now divide up the preparation into portions the
size of walnuts; roll these into balls, and then flatten them out to
form quoits about the size of shillings. Treat these quoits with an
_anglaise_, and very fine bread-crumbs, and plunge into hot fat four
minutes before serving. Drain them when they have acquired a fine
golden colour.
Pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and
send to the table, separately, (1) the fried macaroni quoits; (2) one
and one-half oz. of Gruyère and Parmesan cheese, in equal quantities,
grated and mixed.
585—CONSOMMÉ MIREILLE
Add one tablespoonful of very concentrated tomato purée to three oz.
of chicken forcemeat; roll this preparation into the form of a
somewhat large sausage, and poach it. When cold, cut it into
roundels, one-quarter inch thick, and stamp each roundel with an
oval fancy-cutter in the shape of a medallion. Put these medallions
in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of saffroned pilaff rice
(No. 2255), and, when about to serve, pour thereon one quart of very
clear, boiling chicken consommé.
586—CONSOMMÉ MIRETTE
Make eighteen quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of large
pearls, and poach them. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of lettuce
_chiffonade_ (the heart of one lettuce cut _julienne-fashion_ and
stewed in butter); make eighteen _paillettes_ with Parmesan (No. 2322),
and put them in a very hot oven eight or ten minutes before serving.
Put the poached quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the
soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of boiling consommé of the Petite
Marmite, and one pinch of chervil _pluches_.
Send the _paillettes_ au Parmesan to the table separately, and have
them very hot.
587—CONSOMMÉ MONTE CARLO
Make and poach thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat; _cisel_
and stew in butter the heart of one lettuce; prepare twelve little
_profiterolles_ of _pâte à choux_, the size of hazel-nuts, and cook
them, taking care to keep them crisp.
Put the quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the soup-tureen;
pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken consommé, and
add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
Serve the _profiterolles_ separately and very hot.
588—CONSOMMÉ MONTMORENCY
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.
Prepare eighteen small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat. Poach,
drain, and put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of
very green asparagus-heads and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice,
every grain of which should be distinct and separate.
589—CONSOMMÉ A LA MOSCOVITE
Prepare one quart of sterlet or sturgeon consommé, and add thereto some
cucumber essence, obtained by pounding a cored and peeled cucumber, and
straining the resulting purée through linen.
Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted
mushrooms, one oz. of soaked _vesiga_ cut into dice and cooked in
broth, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
N.B.—_Vesiga_ or the spine-marrow of the sturgeon ought to be soaked
in cold water for a few hours in order to soften and swell it, after
which it should be cut into dice and cooked in broth. For every four
tablespoonfuls of cooked _vesiga_, one oz. of dry _vesiga_ should be
allowed.
590—CONSOMMÉ NESSELRODE
Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with hazel-hen _fumet_.
Poach two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from chestnut purée with two
small tablespoonfuls of game _salmis_ sauce added thereto; cut it into
roundels half-inch thick, and trim these with a grooved fancy-cutter.
Put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_
of hazel-hen fillets, the same quantity of a _julienne_ of mushrooms,
and pour thereon the boiling game consommé.
591—CONSOMMÉ AUX NIDS D’HIRONDELLES
The nests used for this soup are those of the esculent swallow, and
their shape somewhat resembles that of the rind of a quartered, dry
orange.
In the first place, prepare a chicken consommé containing a large
proportion of nutritious principles. Set three nests to soak in cold
water for twenty-four hours, the object being to swell the mucilaginous
elements of which they are composed and to make them transparent.
When they have soaked sufficiently remove any pieces of feather which
may have remained in them, using for this purpose the point of a
needle, and, when the nests are quite clean, drain them and put them
into the consommé. At this stage set the consommé to boil, gently, for
thirty or thirty-five minutes without interruption. During this time
the gummy portions of the nests will melt into the consommé, giving the
latter its characteristic viscidity, and there will only remain visible
those portions which, in the natural state, constitute the framework
of the nests; that is to say, little threads not unlike superfine
transparent vermicelli.
592—CONSOMMÉ AUX ŒUFS DE FAUVETTE
I introduced this consommé in honour of the illustrious singer, Adelina
Patti.
It consists of a chicken consommé, which should be made as perfect as
possible, and a garnish composed of the poached eggs of small birds.
593—CONSOMMÉ OLGA
Prepare one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, and add thereto, when
about to serve and away from the fire, one-quarter pint of port wine.
Also cut into a fine _julienne_ the quarter of a small celeriac, the
white of a leek, and the red part only of a small carrot. Stew this
_julienne_ in butter and complete its cooking in consommé, reducing the
latter to a glaze.
When about to serve put this _julienne_ in a soup tureen, add a few
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted gherkins, and pour thereon the
consommé with port.
594—CONSOMMÉ D’ORLÉANS
Lay on a buttered tray ten small quenelles of ordinary chicken
forcemeat, ten others of chicken forcemeat combined with a very red
tomato purée, and ten more of the same forcemeat, combined with a purée
of spinach, all the quenelles being grooved.
Ten minutes before serving poach these quenelles, drain them, put them
in the soup-tureen, and pour therein one quart of chicken consommé
thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained
through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
595—CONSOMMÉ D’ORSAY
Prepare one quart of very clear chicken consommé, also make fifteen
small quenelles of pigeon forcemeat moulded to the shape of eggs by
means of a very small spoon, and poach the yolks of ten eggs, taking
care to keep them very soft.
Put the quenelles and the poached yolks into the soup-tureen with
a _julienne_ of three fillets of pigeon and a tablespoonful of
asparagus-heads, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. Serve at once.
596—OX-TAIL SOUP
_For Ten People._—Garnish the bottom of a small stock-pot or stewpan
with one fine carrot and two medium-sized onions cut into roundels
and browned in butter, and one faggot. Add two small ox-tails, or one
of medium size weighing about four lbs. (The tails should be cut into
sections, each of which should contain one of the caudal vertebræ,
and they should then be browned in the oven.) Also add two lbs. of
gelatinous bones, broken very small and likewise browned in the oven.
Now proceed exactly as for brown veal stock (No. 9), taking note that
the whole moistening must consist of no more than two and one-half
quarts of ordinary broth and one quart of water.
Set to boil very gently for four and one-half or five hours. This done,
strain the broth, which should be reduced to two and one-half quarts,
and completely remove its grease. Transfer the largest sections of the
tails, by means of a braiding-needle, one by one to another saucepan.
Cover them with broth, and keep them warm for the garnish.
Finely chop one lb. of very lean beef; put this mince into a saucepan
with the white of a leek cut into dice and half the white of an egg,
and mix thoroughly. Add the broth, the grease of which has been
removed, set to boil, stirring constantly the while, and then leave to
simmer for one hour, which is the time required for the beef to exude
all its juices and for the clarification of the broth.
While the clarification is in progress cut a small carrot in _brunoise
fashion_, or turn it by means of a very small spoon. Cook this garnish
in a little water with butter, salt, and sugar.
A few minutes before serving strain the ox-tail broth through a napkin,
put the sections of ox-tail and _brunoise_ into the soup-tureen, and
pour thereon the prepared broth. This soup may be flavoured with port
or sherry, but this is optional.
N.B.—If a thickened ox-tail soup be required add to the broth per
every quart of it one-third of an oz. of arrowroot diluted with a
little of the broth or some cold water.
597—CONSOMMÉ PARISIENNE
Have one quart of chicken consommé ready.
For the garnish prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a
purée of ordinary _julienne_, a small _macédoine_ of vegetables,
comprising one heaped tablespoonful each of carrots and turnips divided
up by means of a small grooved spoon and cooked in the usual way, one
tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of fine French beans cut
into lozenges, and one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads.
Cut the royale into regular roundels; put these in the soup-tureen with
the _macédoine_ of vegetables, and, when about to serve, pour thereon
the boiling chicken consommé. Add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_.
598—LA PETITE MARMITE
_For Ten People._—Prepare a consommé in a special earthenware stock-pot
in accordance with the procedure indicated in recipe No. 1, but with
the following quantities, viz., two lbs. of lean beef and as much
breast of beef, one marrow-bone tied in a muslin-bag, and the necks,
the pinions, and the gizzards of six large fowls, these giblets being
inserted in the stewpan one hour before dishing up.
Moisten with three and one-half quarts of water and add three-quarters
of an oz. of salt. Set to boil, skim as indicated, and cook gently with
the view of obtaining a very clear broth. One hour before serving add
six oz. of carrots and the same quantity of turnips, both cut to the
shape of large olives, five oz. of the white of leeks, and a heart of
celery.
Cook a quarter of a very white, properly _blanched_ cabbage,
separately, in a saucepan with a little consommé and some stock grease.
When about to serve test the seasoning of the consommé, which latter
should be very clear; thoroughly clean the stewpan, which may even be
covered with a clean napkin; withdraw the marrow-bone; take it out of
its muslin-bag, and send it and the cabbage to the table separately,
accompanied by a plate of small pieces of hot toast for the marrow.
599—THE POT-AU-FEU
Prepare this exactly like the Petite Marmite.
600—POULE AU POT, or Poule au Pot Henri IV
This is a variation of the Petite Marmite, in which a tender and very
fleshy hen is substituted for the giblets of fowl.
_Strictly observe_ the rule of never using a new earthenware stock-pot
before having boiled water in it for at least twelve hours. Also bear
in mind that earthenware stock-pots should be washed in hot water
only, without any soda or soap.
601—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé, also cut one carrot and
one turnip into roundels one-half inch thick. With a tubular cutter
one-eighth inch in diameter, cut these roundels into little rods,
making a sufficient number to fill one tablespoonful with each
vegetable. Cook these little rods in consommé, and reduce the latter to
a glaze.
Put the carrot and turnip rods into the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of small French beans
and asparagus-heads, the former cut into lozenges, ten roundels of
sorrel leaves, and as many of lettuce leaves, the latter being poached
in some consommé. When about to serve pour the boiling consommé over
these garnishes and add a large pinch of small chervil _pluches_.
602—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER AUX QUENELLES
Prepare the printanier exactly as directed above, but slightly lessen
the quantities of the vegetables constituting the garnish.
Make eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of
little grooved meringues, and poach them ten minutes before dishing up.
Drain them, put them into the soup-tureen with the other garnishes, and
pour thereon the boiling consommé.
603—CONSOMMÉ AUX PROFITEROLLES
Prepare forty very dry _profiterolles_ (No. 218), and add an excellent
chicken consommé to them at the last moment.
The _profiterolles_ may also be made to the size of walnuts, in which
case they may be stuffed with a purée of chicken, foie gras, &c.
604—CONSOMMÉ RACHEL
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and thicken it with three
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. With a round,
even cutter stamp out twelve roundels of crumb of bread the size of
pennies and one-half inch thick. Poach in consommé as many slices of
very fresh beef-marrow as there are roundels of bread.
Six minutes before serving fry the roundels of bread in clarified
butter, hollow out their centres, and place on each a slice of poached
beef-marrow suitably trimmed.
Put three tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of cooked artichoke bottoms
into the soup-tureen, pour thereon the thickened consommé, and add the
roundels of bread garnished with marrow.
605—CONSOMMÉ REJANE
Prepare one quart of excellent white consommé, set it to boil, and add
a _julienne_ of the white of half a fowl and the heads of two leeks
cut similarly to the fowl. Set to cook gently for ten minutes, taking
care to disturb the consommé as little as possible, add three oz.
of potatoes cut into a _julienne_, complete the cooking, and serve
immediately.
606—CONSOMMÉ RENAISSANCE
Prepare one quart of clear chicken consommé.
For the garnish make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale with a purée of
early-season herbs thickened with velouté and whole eggs; with a
small grooved spoon-cutter pick out one tablespoonful of pellets from
a turnip and the red part only of a carrot. Cook these vegetables
in the usual way. Cut the royale with a grooved fancy-cutter into
pieces of the shape of small leaves. Put the leaves of royale into the
soup-tureen with the carrot and turnip pellets, one tablespoonful of
very green peas, the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenges,
one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, and twelve very small particles
of very white cauliflower. Pour the boiling consommé over these
garnishes, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
607—CONSOMMÉ RICHELIEU
Have ready one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé. Also (1) prepare
twelve quenelles of chicken forcemeat moulded by means of a small
coffee-spoon, proceeding as follows:—Line the spoon with a thin coating
of the forcemeat, and in the middle lay some chopped, reduced, cold
chicken aspic. Cover the jelly with a layer of forcemeat, shaping it
like a dome; insert another spoon (first dipped in hot water) under the
quenelle, and place the latter upon a buttered sautépan. Repeat the
operation until the required number of quenelles have been moulded.
Treated in this way, the quenelles, when poached, contain, so to speak,
a liquid core. Five minutes before dishing up, poach the quenelles.
2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of
forcemeat over each; roll into _paupiettes_, and poach in some of the
consommé.
3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and
turnips, stew them in butter, and complete their cooking in the
consommé, which should be thoroughly cleared of grease.
Put the _julienne_, the _paupiettes_, and the stuffed quenelles into
the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling beef consommé, and add a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
608—CONSOMMÉ ROSSINI
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, slightly thickened with two
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
Make eighteen _profiterolles_, from _pâte à choux_ without sugar
(No. 2374), to the size of hazel-nuts. Bake them in a moderate oven,
keeping them very crisp, and garnish them, inside, with a foie-gras and
truffle purée.
When about to serve, pour the consommé into the soup-tureen, and dish
the _profiterolles_ separately, after having placed them in good time
in the front of the oven, so that they may reach the table very hot.
609—CONSOMMÉ ROTHSCHILD
Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with pheasant _fumet_.
Add thereto, when about to serve, one-quarter pint of reduced Sauterne.
Make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of
one-third of the whole of purée of pheasant, one-third of chestnut
purée, and one-third of pheasant _salmis_ sauce. Poach the royale; cut
it into grooved roundels, and place these in the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of fillets of pheasant.
When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish.
610—CONSOMMÉ SAINT HUBERT
Take one quart of game consommé, prepared with venison _fumet_. Finish
the consommé, at the time of serving, with one-quarter pint of Marsala.
Make three _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of
one-third of the whole of venison purée, one-third of lentil purée,
and one-third of reduced game Espagnole. Poach the royale in a small
Charlotte mould, and, when it has cooled, cut it up with a fancy-cutter
of the shape of a cross. Put the crosses of royale into the soup-tureen
with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of fillets of hare,
and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
611—POTAGE SARAH BERNHARDT
Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling
chicken consommé, and leave to poach gently for fifteen or eighteen
minutes.
Make twenty small quenelles from chicken forcemeat, finished by means
of crayfish butter, and mould them to the shape of small, grooved
meringues. Poach these quenelles. Cut twelve roundels, the size of a
penny, from a piece of beef-marrow, and poach them in the consommé.
Put the drained quenelles and the poached roundels of marrow into the
soup-tureen; add one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of very black
truffles, and the same quantity of asparagus-heads. Pour the boiling
consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish.
612—CONSOMMÉ SÉVIGNÉ
Keep one quart of very clear chicken consommé very warm.
Prepare ten quenelles of chicken forcemeat, moulded by means of a small
coffee-spoon, and poach them; also have ready four braised lettuces.
Put the quenelles, the lettuce cut into small sections and properly
trimmed, and one tablespoonful of peas into the soup-tureen; pour
therein the boiling consommé and a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
613—CONSOMMÉ SOUVERAINE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.
Make ten large quenelles from chicken forcemeat, and stuff them with a
very fine _brunoise_, proceeding as follows:—Line a dessertspoon with
a thin coat of forcemeat, and garnish the centre with the _brunoise_,
previously cooked in consommé, and cold. Cover the _brunoise_ with a
layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome; insert another dessertspoon
dipped into hot water under the quenelle, and transfer the latter to a
buttered sautépan. Repeat the operation until the required number of
quenelles have been moulded.
Allow eight minutes for the poaching of these quenelles; put them into
the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of peas; pour thereon the
boiling consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
614—TURTLE SOUP
With the exception of a few leading London restaurants, where a large
quantity of this preparation is constantly in demand, turtle soup is
very rarely prepared in the kitchens of catering establishments. It is
more generally obtained ready-made, either fresh or preserved, and as a
rule of exceptional quality, from firms whose speciality it is to make
it, and who deliver it in excellent condition.
From among the London firms who have deservedly earned a reputation
for this soup, “Pécriaux” may be quoted as one whose produce is quite
irreproachable.
When a comparatively small quantity of this soup is required, it is
best to buy it ready-made; in the event of its being desirable to
prepare it oneself, the following recipe will be found the simplest and
most practical for the purpose.
=Particulars of the Operation=
_The Slaughtering of the Turtle._—For soup, take a turtle weighing from
120 to 180 lbs., and let it be very fleshy and full of life.
To slaughter it, lay it on its back on a table, with its head hanging
over the side. By means of a double butcher’s hook, one spike of which
is thrust into the turtle’s lower jaw, while the other suspends an
adequately heavy weight, make the animal hold its head back; then, with
all possible dispatch, sever the head from the body.
Now immediately hang the body over a receptacle, that the blood may be
collected, and leave it thus for one and one-half or two hours.
Then follows the dismemberment:—To begin with, thrust a strong knife
between the carapace or upper shell and the plastron or lower shell,
exactly where the two meet, and separate the one from the other. The
turtle being on its back, cut all the adhering flesh from the plastron,
and put the latter aside. Now cut off the flippers; remove the
intestines, which throw away, and carefully collect all the green fat.
Whereupon cut away the flesh adhering to the carapace; once more remove
all fat, and keep both in reserve.
_The Treatment of the Carapace, the Plastron, and the Flippers._—The
carapace and plastron, which are the outside bony framework of the
turtle, constitute the only portions wherefrom the gelatinous flesh,
used as the garnish of the soup, are obtained.
Saw the carapace into six or eight pieces, and the plastron into four.
Put these pieces with the flippers into boiling water or into steam,
to _blanch_. Withdraw the flippers as soon as they are sufficiently
stiff for their skin to be removed, and leave the pieces of carapace
and plastron to _blanch_ for five minutes, in order that they may admit
of being scraped. Now cool the pieces of carapace and plastron and
the flippers, and put them into a stewpan containing enough water to
abundantly cover them. Set to boil; garnish with vegetables, as in the
case of an ordinary broth, and add a small quantity of turtle herbs.
Five or six hours should be allowed for the cooking of the carapace and
the plastron, but the flippers, which are put to further uses in other
culinary preparations, should be withdrawn at the end of five hours.
When the pieces are taken from the cooking-liquor, remove all the
flesh from the bones, and cool the former; then trim it carefully,
and cut it into little squares of one and one-half inches side. It is
these squares together with the green fat (poached in salted water and
sliced) which constitute the garnish of the soup.
_The Preparation of Turtle Soup._—There are two modes of procedure,
though their respective results are almost identical.
1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very
gelatinous beef consommé to it, in pursuance of the method employed
when the turtle soup is bought ready-made.
This procedure is practically the best, more particularly if the soup
has to be kept some time.
2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity
of the latter as of turtle. Also include half a calf’s foot and
one-half lb. of calf’s shin per 3 lbs. of the beef. Add the flesh of
the turtle, or, in the event of its being thought necessary to clarify,
which operation I do not in the least advise, reserve it for that
purpose.
The condiments and aromatics being the same for both methods, I shall
now describe the procedure for method No. 1.
_The Ingredients of the Soup._—Put into a stewpan of convenient size
the flesh of the turtle and its head and bones. Moisten partly with
the cooking-liquor of the carapace, and complete the moistening, in
the case of a turtle weighing 120 lbs., with enough water to bring the
whole to 50 quarts. By this means a soup of about thirty to thirty-five
quarts will be obtained at the end of the operation. Add salt in the
proportion of one oz. per every five quarts; set to boil; skim, and
garnish with twelve carrots, a bunch of leeks (about ten bound with
a head of celery), one lb. of parsley stalks, eight onions with ten
cloves stuck into them, two lbs. of shallots, and one head of garlic.
Set to boil gently for eight hours. An hour before straining the soup,
add to the garnish four strips of lemon-peel, a bunch of herbs for
turtle, comprising sweet basil, sweet marjoram, sage, rosemary, savory,
and thyme, and a bag containing four oz. of coriander and two oz. of
peppercorns.
Finally, strain the soup through a napkin; add the pieces of flesh from
the carapace and plastron which were put aside for the garnish, and
keep it until wanted in specially-made sandstone jars.
_The Serving of the Soup._—When about to serve this soup, heat it; test
and rectify its seasoning, and finish it off by means of a port wine
glass of very old Madeira to every quart.
Very often a milk punch is served with turtle soup, the recipe being:—
_Milk Punch._—Prepare a syrup from one-half pint of water and three and
one-half oz. of sugar, the consistence at the boil being 170° (Baumé’s
Hydrometer). Set to infuse in this syrup two orange and two lemon
_zests_. Strain at the end of ten minutes, and add one-half pint of
rum, one-fifth pint of kirsch, two-thirds pint of milk, and the juice
of three oranges and three lemons. Mix thoroughly. Let it stand for
three hours; filter, and serve cold.
615—CONSOMMÉ TOSCA
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
Also prepare two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots stewed
in butter, the cooking of which is completed in the consommé; ten
small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined, in the proportion of
one-third, with foie gras and chopped truffles; ten small, very crisp
_profiterolles_, stuffed with a purée of chicken with pistachio kernels.
Put the quenelles and the _julienne_ into the soup-tureen, pour therein
the boiling consommé, and send the _profiterolles_ to the table
separately, and very hot.
616—CONSOMMÉ VERT PRÉ
Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling
consommé, and set to cook gently for a quarter of an hour.
Put into the soup-tureen one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, the same
quantity of peas and of French beans cut into lozenges, a few roundels
of sorrel leaves, and as many roundels of poached lettuce leaves.
Pour the boiling consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish, and add a
large pinch of chervil _pluches_.
617—CONSOMMÉ VILLENEUVE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.
Prepare the following garnish:—Two small _blanched_ lettuces, stuffed
with chicken forcemeat combined with braised and chopped salted tongue;
two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and two pancakes coated with a
layer of chicken forcemeat, which should be placed in the front of the
oven for a few moments with the view of poaching the forcemeat.
Put the cut-up lettuces, the pancakes cut into small, narrow lozenges,
and the royale cut into pastils, into the soup-tureen; and, when about
to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the whole.
=Special Cold Consommé for Suppers=
_Remarks Relative to the Consommés._—I gave the recipes of these
consommés in Part I. of this work (No. 6), and shall now, therefore,
limit myself to the following remarks, which are of paramount
importance:—
1. These consommés must be perfect in limpidness and quality.
2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet
not too pronounced.
3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the
best possible quality. Rather than make use of inferior wines, the
presence of which in the soup would tend to depreciate its quality,
completely discard wine flavourings.
4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.
618—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CAILLES
Use roast quails in the proportion of two for each pint of consommé;
the fillets may be reserved for a cold entrée.
619—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CÉLERI
It is impossible to state exactly how much celery should be used, the
quantity being entirely subject to the more or less decided flavour of
the vegetables at one’s disposal.
Experience alone can guide the operator in this matter.
620—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE MORILLES
Allow five oz. of small fresh morels, or three oz. of dry ones per
quart of the consommé. Pound them and mix them with the clarification.
621—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE TRUFFLE
Use fresh truffles only in this case. Allow two oz. of peelings and
trimmings per quart of the consommé; pound them and mix them with the
clarification.
622—CONSOMMÉ AU FUMET DE PERDREAU
Proceed as in No. 618; allow one partridge for each quart of the
consommé.
623—CONSOMMÉ AUX PAILLETTES D’OR
Take a very superior chicken consommé; add thereto, per quart, a glass
of excellent liqueur brandy, and, in the same proportion, one gold-leaf
cut into small spangles.
624—CONSOMMÉ AUX PIMENTS DOUX
Add one-half oz. of fresh or preserved capsicum to every quart
of the consommé. The product should be pounded and mixed with the
clarification.
625—CONSOMMÉ A LA MADRILÈNE
Add four oz. of raw tomato and one oz. of capsicum to the consommé
per every quart of the latter. Mix these ingredients with the
clarification, and serve as cold as possible.
626—CONSOMMÉ A LA PORTUGAISE
Add to the consommé for every quart one-third pint of raw tomato
purée and one-sixth pint of tomato juice. Cook with lid on for twenty
minutes, taking care not to let it reach the boil; strain through
muslin, pressing lightly the while, and season moderately with cayenne.
Set to cool, and serve very cold.
627—CONSOMMÉS AUX VINS
By adding a port wine glass full of the chosen wine to one pint of
excellent cold chicken consommé, the following series of consommés may
be made:—
Consommé au vin de Chypre.
Consommé au vin de Madère.
Consommé au vin de Malvoisie.
Consommé au vin de Marsala.
Consommé au vin de Porto doré.
Consommé au vin de Porto rose.
Consommé au vin de Samos.
Consommé au vin de Zucco.
628—GELEE AUX POMMES D’AMOUR
Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” and use that variety of small
tomatoes which, in Provence, are called “Pommes d’amour.”
629—GELEE DE VOLAILLE A LA NAPOLITAINE
Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” but finish it with one port
wine-glassful of port or old Marsala per quart.
THICK SOUPS
In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick soups
consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules which should be
observed in the preparation of each class of these soups, and showed
how most of them could, if necessary, be converted into and served
as cullises, purées, bisques, veloutés, or creams. The principles
governing these alterations are very simple, and after a moment’s
reflection the operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as
it may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end of
each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation.
With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any directions
of the sort referred to, and which I simply class under the name of
Potages, these are unalterable preparations which may only be served
in accordance with the directions given. This being clear, the reader
will understand that I have refrained from repeating the quantities
of butter, cream, thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These
particulars having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer
to that part of the book for them.
630—PURÉE DE CAROTTES, otherwise CRÉCY
Cut one lb. of the red part only of carrots into fine slices; chop
one onion, and put the whole into a stewpan with a sprig of thyme and
two oz. of butter. Stew gently for twenty minutes, and season with a
pinch of salt and sugar. Add the thickening ingredient, _i.e._, either
two oz. of rice or five and one-half oz. of bread dice fried in butter;
also add one and one-half pints of white consommé, and set to cook very
gently.
Rub through tammy, test the consistence, despumate, and add butter when
dishing up.
Ordinary garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.
Occasional garnish: poached Japanese pearls in the proportion of two
tablespoonfuls per quart of the soup.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream or a velouté à la Nivernaise
(see No. 674).
631—PURÉE DE CAROTTES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise VELOURS
Make one pint of carrot purée as above, and poach two tablespoonfuls of
tapioca in a pint of white consommé.
When about to serve, and after having buttered the purée of carrots,
mix therewith the prepared tapioca.
632—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE
Finely mince one lb. of celeriac; _blanch_ it; thoroughly drain it,
and stew it gently in one oz. of butter. Moisten with one quart of
white consommé; add two medium-sized potatoes, minced, and set to cook
gently. Rub through tammy; despumate the purée gently for half an hour,
and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.
633—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES, otherwise FLAMANDE
Parboil and drain one lb. of very fresh Brussels sprouts. Set them to
stew gently in three oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of white
consommé; for the leason add two medium-sized quartered potatoes, and
complete the cooking.
Rub the whole through tammy, finish the purée with milk, despumate it
in the usual way, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with small
bread dice fried in butter.
634—PURÉE DE CHOUX-FLEURS, otherwise DUBARRY
Parboil one lb. of cauliflower divided into bunches.
Drain them and put them in a saucepan with one pint of boiled milk
and two medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening. Set to cook
gently, rub through tammy, finish with boiled milk, despumate, and add
butter.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream with small
pieces of cauliflower as garnish.
635—PURÉE DE CROSNES, otherwise JAPONAISE
Parboil and drain one lb. of well-cleaned stachys. Stew them in one oz.
of butter; moisten with one pint of boiled milk or white consommé,
according as to whether the purée is to be a Lenten one or not; add two
medium-sized minced potatoes, and complete the cooking gently.
Rub through tammy, test the consistence, and add, if necessary, either
a little boiled milk or some consommé; despumate, and add butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé
or milk.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
636—PURÉE DE FLAGEOLETS, otherwise MUSARD
Cook together with the ordinary aromatic garnish three-quarters pint of
dry flageolets, or, if they are in season, use twice that quantity of
fresh ones.
Drain, pound, and moisten the purée with a little of the cooking-liquor
of the flageolets, rub through tammy, and rectify the consistence
with some white consommé and the necessary quantity of boiled milk.
Despumate, and butter it when about to dish up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream, but for either
of the latter it is preferable to use fresh flageolets, the garnish for
both consisting of very small flageolets and chervil _pluches_.
637—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS, otherwise SOISSONNAISE
Cook in the usual way, that is to say, with carrots, a faggot, and one
onion stuck with a clove, a good half-pint of dry haricot beans.
Crush all these, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of their
cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy.
Rectify the consistence of the purée with the necessary quantity of
white consommé and milk, despumate, add butter when about to dish up,
and garnish with small bread dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
638—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS, otherwise CORMEILLES
Parboil one and one-half lbs. of French beans and keep them very green.
After having well drained them, stew them for ten or twelve minutes in
one oz. of butter, moisten with one pint of white consommé, and add two
medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening.
Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, rectify the consistence of the
purée with a little boiled milk, despumate, and add butter when dishing
up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked French beans cut into narrow
lozenges.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
639—PURÉE DE HARICOTS ROUGES, otherwise CONDÉ
Put a heaped pint of red beans into cold water, set to boil slowly,
skim, add three oz. of carrots, one small faggot, one onion stuck with
a clove, and a bottleful of boiling red wine. Set to cook gently.
Drain the beans and crush them in a mortar. Moisten the purée with a
few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of the beans, rub through
tammy, rectify the consistence of the purée with some white consommé,
follow the procedure of all purées, and add butter when about to serve.
Garnish with bread dice fried in butter.
640—PURÉE DE LENTILLES, otherwise CONTI
Soak three-quarters of a pint of lentils in lukewarm water for two
hours. Put them in a stewpan with two oz. of very lean breast of bacon,
_blanched_, cooled, and cut into dice, and one quart of white consommé.
Set to boil, skim, add three oz. of carrots, one onion, and one faggot,
and cook very gently.
Drain the lentils, pound them together with the bacon, moisten the
purée with a few tablespoonfuls of cooking-liquor, and rub through
tammy. Rectify the consistence with some reserved cooking-liquor, then
treat the purée in the usual way and add butter when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of bread dice fried in butter and a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
N.B.—It should be borne in mind that the aromatic garnish used in
cooking dry vegetables of what kind soever should be withdrawn before
pounding the latter, that they may be rubbed through tammy.
641—PURÉE DE NAVETS, otherwise FRENEUSE
Finely mince one lb. of very firm turnips, parboil, drain, and stew
them in one and one-half oz. of butter, the necessary salt, and
one-half oz. of sugar, until they are almost completely cooked. Moisten
with one-half pint of white consommé, and complete the cooking.
Meantime, cook two medium-sized, peeled and quartered potatoes in some
consommé.
Now put the turnips and the potato into the same stewpan; crush them,
and rub them through tammy. Bring the purée to the proper consistence
by means of boiled milk, and finish it in the usual way.
Garnish with some small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
642—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE VERMICELLE A LA CRÈME
Sprinkle three oz. of well-separated vermicelli into one pint of
boiling milk or white consommé (according as to whether the preparation
be a Lenten one or not). Let the vermicelli poach gently for
twenty-five minutes, and then add four tablespoonfuls of sorrel cooked
in butter.
Rub the whole through tammy; finish the purée with sufficient milk or
thin cream; heat until the boil is reached, and, when about to serve,
complete by means of a leason composed of the yolks of two eggs and
one-quarter pint of very fresh cream.
For the garnish, refer to the remarks under No. 646.
643—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SAGOU A LA CRÈME
Proceed exactly as directed in the preceding recipe; but instead of
vermicelli use three oz. of sago. Allow the usual time for cooking, and
add the same quantity of sorrel cooked in butter.
Use the same quantities of milk or consommé in order to bring the purée
to the proper consistence, and make use of a precisely similar leason.
644—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SEMOULE A LA CRÈME
The same as the above, but use three oz. of semolina. All other
particulars remain the same.
645—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE TAPIOCA A LA CRÈME
Procedure like that of No. 642, using instead of the vermicelli
three oz. of tapioca.
646—REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE POSSIBLE VARIATIONS OF THE FOUR PRECEDING
RECIPES
A large variety of this kind of soups may be prepared by using the
quantity prescribed of salep, buckwheat, oatmeal, barley-meal, &c.
These soups derive a particular and agreeable flavour from their
cohering element.
The chief point to be remembered in their preparation is their
consistence, which should be that of a thin cream.
When too thick, these soups are pasty and disagreeable; when too thin,
they are insipid; hence the desirability of aiming at a happy medium.
Their garnish is exceedingly variable, the more preferable forms being
small bread dice fried in clarified butter, pressed; peeled tomatoes
cut into dice and tossed in butter; small _printaniers_, _brunoises_,
_juliennes_, _paysannes_, or well-poached rice.
Thus, from the typical recipe of these soups, a whole series may be
prepared, which need not be gone into separately here.
647—PURÉE DE POIS AUX CROÛTONS
Wash three-quarters of a pint of split peas in cold water and put
them into a stewpan with one quart of cold water, a little salt,
and one-half lb. of raw ham. Set to boil, skim, and add two oz. of
_mirepoix_, the minced green leaves of three leeks, a fragment of thyme
and bay, salt, and one-half oz. of sugar. Set to cook very gently.
Rub through tammy, bring the purée to the proper consistence by means
of white consommé, despumate it sufficiently, and add butter to it when
dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter.
648—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, otherwise SAINT-GERMAIN
The two following methods may be employed, viz.:—
(1) Cook quickly one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas, just shelled,
in boiling, salted water. Drain them, pound them in a mortar, moisten
the purée with one pint of white consommé, and rub it through tammy.
Bring it to the proper degree of heat, and add butter when about to
serve. Prepared in this way, the purée should be of a perfect shade.
(2) Stew one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas in one and
one-half oz. of butter, a little lettuce _chiffonade_, one and
one-half oz. of the green part of leeks, a pinch of chervil, a little
salt and sugar, and one-seventh pint of water.
Pound the peas as soon as they are cooked, moisten the purée with one
pint of white consommé, and rub through tammy. Bring the preparation to
the proper degree of heat and add butter at the last moment.
Treated thus, the purée will be of a fainter shade than the preceding
one, but its flavour will be more delicate.
Garnish, in both cases, with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of very
green, fine peas, and some chervil _pluches_. This soup may also be
prepared as a velouté or a cream.
649—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS A LA MENTHE
Make the purée according to one of the above-mentioned methods, and add
to the peas, while cooking, a faggot consisting of three little sprigs
of fresh mint. Finish with consommé, and add butter in the usual way.
Garnish with nice peas, as above, and some very tender mint-leaves,
chopped, instead of the chervil _pluches_.
_Remarks Relative to those Soups which have a Purée of Peas for
Base._—A large number of soups may be made from purées of fresh peas;
among others I may mention the following, with brief directions as to
their constituents and garnish, viz.:—
650—POTAGE AMBASSADEURS
Purée of fresh peas, quite ready for soup; finish with a small
tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and two
tablespoonfuls of poached rice per quart of purée.
651—POTAGE CAMELIA
Prepare this after the recipe of potage Lamballe; finish with
one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of the white of a leek and one
tablespoonful of white chicken meat, cut _julienne-fashion_, per quart
of the soup.
652—POTAGE FONTANGES
Purée of fresh peas ready for soup; add two tablespoonfuls of a
_chiffonade_ of sorrel and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of
the purée, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.
653—POTAGE LAMBALLE
Half of this consists of a finished purée of peas, and the other half
of tapioca poached in consommé as for the ordinary “potage au tapioca.”
654—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS
This is the “potage Fontange,” kept somewhat clear, and with a garnish
composed of one and one-half oz. of vermicelli, poached in consommé,
and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of the soup.
655—POTAGE MARIGNY
Proceed as for “potage Fontange,” and add a garnish of one
tablespoonful of peas and one tablespoonful of fine French beans cut
into lozenges.
656—POTAGE MARCILLY
Half of this consists of a purée of peas and the other half of a purée
of chicken. Prepare these purées in the usual way and mix them together
when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé
and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, in the shape of
pearls, per quart of the soup.
657—POTAGE SAINT-MARCEAU
This is an ordinary purée of peas with butter, combined with two
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of the white of a leek and
some chervil _pluches_ per quart of the purée. This list could be
considerably lengthened, but what there is of it amply suffices to show
the great number of soups that may be obtained from the combination of
other suitable products with the purée of peas and the modification of
the garnish in each case.
658—PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE, otherwise PARMENTIER
Finely mince the white of two medium-sized leeks, and fry them without
colouration in one oz. of butter. Add three medium-sized peeled and
quartered potatoes, one pint of white consommé, and cook quickly. The
moment the potatoes seem soft to the touch crush them and rub them
through tammy.
Finish the purée with some boiled milk or thin cream, heat until the
boil is reached, and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter and
some chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
659—PURÉE DE TOMATES, otherwise PORTUGAISE
Fry in one oz. of butter a somewhat finely-cut _mirepoix_ consisting of
one oz. of breast of bacon cut into dice, one-third of a carrot, half
an onion, a fragment of thyme and bay. Add to this fried _mirepoix_
eight medium-sized tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces the size of a
clove of garlic, a pinch of sugar, two and one-half oz. of rice, and
one pint of white consommé. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, and
finish with the necessary quantity of consommé.
When about to serve complete the purée by adding thereto, away from the
fire, two oz. of butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, each grain being
separate, and the same quantity of peeled tomatoes cut into dice and
briskly tossed in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
660—PURÉE DE TOMATES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise WALDÈZE
Prepare one and one-half pints of tapioca in white consommé, and keep
it a little lighter than ordinary tapioca. Also press, peel, and cut
into dice the pulp of three medium-sized, very red tomatoes; poach
these dice in some consommé and mix them with the tapioca.
Or, failing fresh tomatoes, add to the tapioca two tablespoonfuls of
concentrated tomato purée diluted in a bowl with some white consommé.
Send two oz. of grated cheese to the table separately.
661—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOUR, otherwise PALESTINE
Finely mince two lbs. of Jerusalem artichokes and stew them in one oz.
of butter. Add five torrefied and crushed filberts, moistened with
one pint of white consommé, and set to cook gently. Rub through
tammy; finish the purée with one-quarter pint of milk, in which one
tablespoonful of fecula has been diluted, cold. Set to boil and add
butter when dishing up.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
662—BISQUE D’ÉCREVISSES
(1) Cut into very small dice one oz. of carrot, one oz. of onion,
and two parsley stalks. Add a fragment of thyme and bay; brown this
_mirepoix_ with butter, in a sautépan; throw in fifteen crayfish for
“Bisque” (their average weight being about one and one-third oz.),
and toss them in the _mirepoix_ until they acquire a very red colour.
Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-quarter pint
of white wine, season with a large pinch of salt and a pinch of ground
pepper, and set to reduce.
This done, moisten with one-quarter pint of white consommé and leave to
cook for ten minutes.
Also cook three oz. of rice in one and one-half pints of white consommé.
(2) Shell the crayfishes’ tails and put them aside; also reserve eight
carapaces. Drain the crayfishes of all their cooking-liquor; finely
pound them and their remains and the _mirepoix_. Add the rice, properly
cooked, and the cooking-liquor of the crayfish, and rub through a
sieve, first, and then through tammy.
Add to the resulting purée one-half pint of white consommé, set to
boil, wielding a whisk the while, pass through a strainer, and then
keep the preparation in a _bain-marie_, taking care to place a few
lumps of butter on its surface lest a skin should form while the bisque
is waiting to be served.
Finish the preparation when dishing up with two and one-half oz. of
butter, three tablespoonfuls of excellent thick cream, and a very
little cayenne.
Garnish with the crayfish tails cut into dice, and the eight carapaces
stuffed with a fish forcemeat with cream and poached seven or eight
minutes previously.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
663—BISQUE DE HOMARD
After substituting for the crayfish a raw lobster weighing three lbs.,
cut into small sections, the procedure is the same as that of No. 662.
It is only necessary, therefore, to refer to that recipe for all
particulars relating to preparation and quantities.
Garnish with the meat taken from the tail; this should have been kept
aside and cut into small dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
664—BISQUE DE CREVETTES
The mode of procedure for this bisque, the _mirepoix_, the thickening
ingredients, the moistening, and the finishing of the soup are
identical with those of No. 662.
All that is needed, therefore, is to substitute for the crayfish
two lbs. of raw shrimps.
Instead of using ordinary butter in finishing this bisque, use
three oz. of shrimp butter. Garnish with twenty-five reserved tails,
these being shelled and trimmed.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
665—COULIS DE GIBIER, otherwise AU CHASSEUR
Prepare six oz. of the meat of a wild rabbit, six oz. of that of a
partridge, and six oz. of that of a pheasant. These meats should be
roasted and their roast-cases swilled with a liqueur-glass of burnt
brandy. The resulting gravy should be added to the soup.
Now finely pound these meats together with one-half pint of cooked
and drained lentils. When the whole has become a smooth purée add the
cooking-liquor of the lentils and the swillings referred to above and
rub through tammy.
Finish the cullis with the necessary quantity of consommé, heat it, and
pass it through a strainer. Add butter at the last moment and season
moderately.
Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of small, very fresh mushrooms; these
to be finely minced and tossed in butter.
666—COULIS DE GRIVES AU PAIN NOIR, otherwise A L’ARDENNAISE
Fry four fine thrushes in butter and complete their cooking in one pint
of feathered game consommé containing five oz. of rye-bread dice fried
in butter. These dice constitute in this case the thickening element of
the soup. Remove and put aside the thrushes’ fillets, finely pound the
carcasses together with two juniper-berries, add the leason of bread
dice, and rub through tammy.
Add to the resulting purée one-quarter pint of feathered-game consommé,
set to boil, and pass through a strainer. Finish the cullis with two
and one-half oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into thin slices or into a
_julienne_.
667—COULIS DE GROUSE OU DE GELINOTTE A L’ANCIENNE
Proceed as in No. 666 in so far as the preparatory details and the
quantities are concerned, but take note of the following changes in
other directions:—
(1) Substitute for the thrushes two grouse or two hazel-hens, taking
care to discard the legs and the carcasses.
(2) Use ordinary bread dice instead of those of rye-bread.
668—COULIS DE LAPEREAU AU CURRIE
Cut the legs of a young wild rabbit into small pieces, stiffen these in
butter, and put them into the stewpan with a few roundels of carrot and
onion, one small faggot of parsley and celery, and one quart of white
consommé. Set to cook gently.
Also lightly brown in butter two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion,
besprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of fecula and a sufficient
quantity of curry, moisten with the strained cooking-liquor of the
pieces of rabbit, bring to the boil, and set to simmer for seven or
eight minutes. Rub through tammy and then despumate for twenty minutes,
adding from time to time one or two tablespoonfuls of consommé with the
view of promoting the clarification of the cullis. When about to serve
finish the latter with three or four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Garnish with eighteen very small slices taken from the pieces of rabbit
and two oz. of rice à l’Indienne, serving the latter separately.
669—COULIS DE PERDREAU A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS, otherwise A LA MANCELLE
Split the shells of fifteen fine chestnuts, put them in a stewpan with
water, boil them for five minutes, and shell and peel them quickly
while they are still very hot. Then cook them gently in one-half pint
of white consommé with one-third of a stick of celery, minced, and one
piece of loaf-sugar.
_Poële_ a partridge, remove the fillets for the purpose of garnish,
bone the rest, and pound it finely together with the carcass and
the _poëling_ liquor. Add the chestnuts, pound the whole, and add
some consommé to the resulting purée with the object of facilitating
the rubbing through tammy. This done, add to the preparation about
one-quarter pint of very clear game stock, bring the whole to the boil,
pass it through a strainer, and finish the cullis, when dishing up,
with a very little cayenne and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with the fillets of partridge cut into a small _julienne_.
670—COULIS DE VOLAILLE, otherwise A LA REINE
Poach in one quart of white consommé a cleaned fowl weighing about
three lbs. and two oz. of rice previously _blanched_. Having cooked
the fowl, withdraw it, raise its fillets, and put them aside. Bone
the remainder and finely pound the meat. When the latter is a smooth
paste mix therewith the rice, which should be very well cooked, add the
necessary amount of white consommé to the purée, and rub through tammy.
Bring the cullis to the boil and pass it through a fine strainer.
Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason composed of the
yolks of three eggs, one-sixth pint of cream, and three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into small, regular dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
671—VELOUTÉ AGNÈS SOREL
(1) Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, keeping it
somewhat thin.
(2) Clean, wash, peel, and quickly pound eight oz. of very fresh
mushrooms, newly gathered if possible.
Rub through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée of raw mushrooms
to the velouté. Bring the whole to the boil once or twice, and this
done rub through tammy immediately. Finish with the leason and add
butter when dishing up.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of raw mushrooms tossed
in butter, one tablespoonful of chicken fillets, and as much salted
tongue, both of which should also be cut in _julienne-fashion_.
N.B.—With regard to veloutés I remind the reader that the velouté
of ordinary consistence represents one-half of the soup, the purée
typifying the latter represents one-quarter, while the consommé
required to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence should
be in the proportion of the remaining quarter.
The leason, per quart of the soup, should consist of the yolks of three
eggs and one-sixth pint of cream, while the average quantity of butter
should measure about two and one-half oz. (see No. 242).
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
672—VELOUTÉ DE BLANCHAILLE AU CURRIE
Bear in mind that this soup ought to be made and served within the
space of twenty minutes, for if it be left to stand for however short a
time, it will most probably turn, in spite of every possible precaution.
Cook three oz. of finely chopped onion in butter without colouration,
besprinkle with one-half coffeespoonful of curry, moisten with one and
one-half pints of boiling water, add a faggot, a pinch of salt, a few
sprigs of saffron (or a little of it powdered), and two oz. of Viennese
bread.
Set to boil for ten minutes; this done add three-quarters lb. of very
fresh Blanchailles, and cook over a brisk fire.
Rub through a hair-sieve, finish by means of a leason consisting of the
yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream, and pour the whole
into the soup-tureen over some dried slices of bread (buttered), over
rice, or over some previously poached vermicelli. Serve at once.
673—VELOUTÉ CARMÉLITE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fish velouté, stew four oz. of
fillets of sole and the same quantity of fillets of whiting in one and
one-half oz. of butter and lemon juice. Pound the fish, add it to the
velouté, and rub through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of consommé, heat the velouté, and finish
it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of poached fillets of
sole and twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
674—VELOUTÉ AUX CAROTTES, otherwise NIVERNAISE
Cut into thin slices one lb. of the red part only of carrots, season
with a pinch of table-salt and twice that amount of castor-sugar, and
stew in one oz. of butter.
Add one pint of ordinary thin velouté and let the cooking of the
carrots be completed therein. Rub through tammy, finish with one-half
pint of white consommé, set to boil, and complete the preparation, when
dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a fine _brunoise_ of
the red part of carrots.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
675—VELOUTÉ COMTESSE
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, parboil one and one-half lbs. of
white asparagus, and put them into the velouté. Complete the cooking
gently. Rub through tammy, add one-half pint of white consommé, heat,
and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a lettuce _chiffonade_ and twelve
small white asparagus-heads wherefrom all leaves have been removed.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
676—VELOUTÉ AU CONCOMBRES, otherwise DANOISE
Peel, remove the seeds from, mince, and stew in butter one lb. of
parboil cucumber. Add this to one pint of ordinary velouté, which
should have been prepared at the same time, and complete the cooking
quickly. Rub through tammy, add the necessary quantity of white
consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a
leason and butter in the usual quantities.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
677—VELOUTÉ CRESSONIÈRE
After having slightly parboiled them, stew one lb. of very fresh
watercress leaves in one and one-half oz. of butter, add them to one
pint of ordinary velouté. Set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, rub
through tammy, add one and one-half pints of ordinary white consommé,
heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and
butter.
Garnish with one oz. of watercress leaves parboiled for three minutes.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
678—VELOUTÉ DAME-BLANCHE
Prepare one and one-half pints of clear poultry velouté. Also finely
pound ten or twelve well-washed sweet almonds, moisten them, little by
little, with one-sixth pint of fresh water, and rub through a strong
towel, twisting the latter to assist the process.
Add this almond milk to the velouté, and finish the latter, when
dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of the white of a chicken cut into small
dice, and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat (in the shape of
pearls) poached just before dishing up.
679—VELOUTÉ D’ARTOIS
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, and mix therewith one-half pint
of a purée of haricot beans. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of
white consommé; heat, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with the
leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of an ordinary _julienne_ and a pinch
of chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
680—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS
Prepare a thin panada with one pint of boiled milk and two and
one-half oz. of crumbled bread. Season with a pinch of salt and a very
small quantity of mignonette. Also stew gently, in one oz. of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, two and one-half oz. of fillets of
smelt, one-half lb. of fillets of sole, or the meat of a dory, and the
juice of the quarter of a lemon.
Add the fish, stewed in butter and pounded, to the panada, together
with one-half pint of ordinary thin velouté.
Rub through tammy; heat; season with a very little cayenne, and finish
the whole, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and one and
one-half oz. of butter.
N.B.—1. In view of the decided flavour of the smelt, and the really
disagreeable taste it imparts to a preparation which contains overmuch
of it, its flesh should never exceed the proportion of one-third of the
required quantity of fish. The remaining two-thirds should be supplied
by a fish of neutral flavour, such as the sole or dory, both of which
are admirably suited to this purpose.
2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be
prepared as quickly as possible, and at the last moment. The process
should not last longer than thirty minutes, for, if there be any delay,
the preparation will turn and lose its flavour.
3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element,
instead of a fish velouté, the reason being that, were the latter used,
the taste of fish would in the end be too pronounced.
681—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS JOINVILLE
Proceed in the matter of the base of the soup as in No. 680.
Finish the velouté with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of
shrimp butter.
Garnish with six crayfish tails, cut into four pieces, and one
tablespoonful of a short _julienne_ of truffles and mushrooms.
682—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS PRINCESSE
The same as above, with twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat with
crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of very green asparagus-heads
per quart of velouté.
683—VELOUTÉ AUX GRENOUILLES, otherwise SICILIENNE
Prepare one and one-half pints of delicate and rather thin fish velouté.
Trim fifteen or twenty frogs’ legs; toss them in butter without letting
them acquire any colour, and set them to poach for ten minutes in two
tablespoonfuls of white wine and the juice of a lemon. Pound them in a
mortar; add the resulting purée to the velouté; set to simmer for seven
or eight minutes, and rub through tammy.
Heat the velouté, and finish it, when dishing up, with the ordinary
leason and three and one-half oz. of best butter.
Do not garnish this velouté.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
684—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD, otherwise CARDINAL
Prepare one and three-quarter pints of bisque de homard (No. 663), but
substitute velouté for the thickening with rice. Rub through tammy;
heat, and complete, when dishing up, with two and one-half oz. of
lobster butter and three-quarters oz. of red butter.
Garnish with two _baba-moulds_ of a royale of lobster, cut by means of
a fancy-cutter in the shape of a cross.
Shell-fish veloutés do not admit of an egg-yolk leason.
685—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A CLEVELAND
Break up two small live lobsters or one medium-sized one, and prepare
it à l’Américaine (see “Lobster à l’Américaine”). Reserve a few slices
of the meat for garnishing purposes. Finely pound the rest with the
shell; combine the purée with one quart of ordinary velouté prepared
beforehand, and add the lobster sauce. Rub through a sieve, first, then
through tammy; heat without allowing to boil; add the required quantity
of consommé, and once more pass the whole through a strainer.
Complete, when dishing up, with three oz. of best butter.
Garnish with one-half tablespoonful of peeled tomato pulp, cut into
dice and half-melted in butter, and the reserved slices of lobster cut
into dice.
686—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A L’INDIENNE
Prepare the lobster à l’Américaine as above, and flavour it with curry.
Preserve a sufficient quantity of meat from the tail to afford an
abundant garnish.
For the rest of the process proceed exactly as the preceding recipe
directs.
Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and four tablespoonfuls
of rice à l’Indienne; send the latter to the table separately.
687—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A L’ORIENTALE
Prepare a medium-sized lobster after the manner directed in “Homard à
la Newburg with raw lobster” (see No. 948), and season with curry.
Reserve a few slices of the meat of the tail for the garnish; finely
pound the remaining portions and the shell; add the lobster sauce, and
combine the whole with one quart of ordinary velouté, kept somewhat
light.
Rub through a sieve, first, then through tammy; heat the velouté
without letting it boil; add the necessary quantity of consommé, and
finish the preparation, when about to serve, with three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and two tablespoonfuls
of rice à l’Indienne, each grain of which should be kept distinct and
separate.
688—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD AU PAPRIKA
Prepare a medium-sized lobster à l’Américaine, and, in addition to the
usual ingredients of the preparation, include two _concassed_ tomatoes
and two roughly chopped onions. Season with paprika.
For the rest of the operation, proceed exactly as directed under
“Velouté à la Cleveland.”
Garnish with lobster meat cut into dice, two tablespoonfuls of rice,
and one tablespoonful of pimentos cut into dice.
689—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A LA PERSANE
Proceed exactly as for “Velouté de Homard à l’Orientale.”
Garnish with lobster meat in dice, one tablespoonful of pimentos in
dice, and two tablespoonfuls of pilaff rice, to which add a very little
saffron.
_Remarks relating to the Variation of these Veloutés._—By merely
substituting an equivalent quantity of crayfish, shrimps, or crabs, for
the lobster, the recipes dealing with veloutés of lobster, given above,
may be applied to _Veloutés of Crayfish_, _Shrimps_, or _Crabs_.
It would therefore be pointless to repeat them, since all that is
needed is to read crayfish, shrimps, or crabs wherever the word lobster
appears.
Thus I shall only point out that the number of these veloutés may be
increased at will, the only requisites being the change of the basic
ingredient and the modification of the garnish.
690—VELOUTÉ AUX HUÎTRES
Prepare one quart of very delicate fish velouté, and bear in mind that
the preparation must be made as speedily as possible. (See the remarks
dealing with this question which follow upon the model recipe of the
velouté d’éperlans.)
Add to the velouté the carefully collected liquor of the twenty-four
oysters constituting the garnish, and complete, when about to serve,
with a leason and butter.
Garnish with four poached oysters (cleared of their beards) per each
person.
691—VELOUTÉ ISOLINE
Prepare one quart of poultry velouté. Complete it, when dishing up,
with an ordinary leason and three oz. of crayfish butter.
Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in white
consommé.
692—VELOUTÉ MARIE LOUISE
Prepare one pint of poultry velouté; mix therewith one-half pint of
barley cream (No. 712), and rub through tammy. Add one-half pint of
white consommé, and heat the velouté without letting it boil.
Finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter. Garnish with
one and one-half tablespoonfuls of best macaroni, poached and cut into
dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
693—VELOUTÉ MARIE STUART
Prepare a poultry velouté with barley cream, as above. Finish it, when
about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a _brunoise_, and the same quantity
of fine pearl barley cooked in white consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
694—VELOUTÉ AU POURPIER
Proceed exactly as directed under “Velouté Cressonière” (No. 677), but
substitute purslain for the watercress.
695—VELOUTÉ A LA SULTANE
Prepare one quart of poultry velouté. Finish it, when dishing up, with
a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs diluted with one-fifth
pint of sweet-almond milk (made by pounding eighteen sweet almonds,
mixing therewith one-fifth pint of water, and straining the whole
through a twisted towel), and three oz. of pistachio butter. The
velouté should be of a pale green shade.
Garnish with small crescents of chicken forcemeat prepared with
crayfish butter, kept of a pink shade. These crescents should be laid,
by means of a piping-bag, upon thin roundels of truffle, and poached in
consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
695a—COLD CHICKEN VELOUTÉ FOR SUPPERS
The preparation of these veloutés requires the utmost care, but, as a
rule, they are very much liked.
Prepare a white roux from one oz. of butter and one and one-sixth oz.
of flour per quart of the moistening. Dilute with some very strong
clear consommé, thoroughly cleared of grease; boil, and despumate for
one and one-half hours, adding meanwhile half as much consommé as
served in the moistening of the velouté.
When the velouté is thoroughly despumated and entirely cleared of
grease, strain it through a silk sieve, and add, per quart, one-quarter
pint of very fresh thin cream. Cool, stirring incessantly the while;
once more strain the velouté through the sieve when it is cold, and,
if necessary, add some of the consommé already used, in order to give
the velouté the consistence of a thickened consommé. Serve it in cups,
and see that it be sufficiently thin to not impaste the mouth of the
consumer.
This velouté is usually served as it stands, but it allows of various
condimentary adjuncts. Such are:—Tomato and capsicum essences;
crayfish, shrimp, or game creams. These creams or essences should be of
consummate delicacy, and ought to lend only a very delicate flavour to
the velouté.
696—CRÈME D’ARTICHAUTS AU BEURRE DE NOISETTE
Have ready one and one-half pints of Béchamel. Parboil, finely mince,
and stew in butter four large artichoke-bottoms. Pound the latter; put
them in the Béchamel, and rub the whole through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of white consommé or milk, and set to heat
without allowing to boil. Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with
one-quarter pint of cream and one oz. of hazel-nut butter (No. 155).
_Remarks relative to Creams._—I remind the reader here that (1) the
thickening element of creams is a Béchamel prepared in the usual way
(see No. 28); (2) in the preparation of a cream, of what kind soever,
the Béchamel should constitute half of the whole, the basic ingredient
a quarter, and the white consommé or milk the remaining quarter.
As a rule, they comprise no butter, but are finished by means of
one-third pint of very fresh cream per quart. Be this as it may, if
it be desirable to butter them, one may do so, but in very small
quantities, and taking care to use the very best butter.
This class of soups is more particularly suited to Lenten menus.
697—CRÈME D’ASPERGES, otherwise ARGENTEUIL
Parboil for five or six minutes one and one-half lbs. of Argenteuil
asparagus, broken off at the spot where the hard part of the stalk
begins. Drain them, and set them to complete their cooking gently in
one and one-quarter pints of previously prepared Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of white consommé, and
heat without allowing to boil.
Finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of white asparagus-heads and a pinch of
chervil _pluches_.
698—CRÈME D’ASPERGES VERTES
Proceed exactly as for “Crème Argenteuil,” but substitute green
asparagus for Argenteuil asparagus.
699—CRÈME AU BLÉ VERT, otherwise CÉRÈS
Put one lb. of dry, green wheat to soak in cold water for four hours.
Then cook it slowly in one-half pint of water and as much white
consommé. Mix therewith one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel and rub
through tammy.
Add the necessary amount of white consommé to the purée; heat the whole
without boiling, and finish it with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
700—CRÈME DE CÉLERI
Mince one lb. of the white of celery; parboil for seven or eight
minutes; drain, and stew in one oz. of butter. Mix one and one-quarter
pints of Béchamel with it; complete the cooking slowly, and rub through
tammy.
Add one-half pint of white consommé; heat without allowing to boil, and
finish the preparation with cream when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a _brunoise_ of celery.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
701—CRÈME DE CERFEUIL BULBEUX, otherwise CHEVREUSE
Mince and stew in butter one lb. of bulbous chervil, and mix therewith
one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel. Complete the cooking slowly;
rub through tammy; add sufficient white consommé; heat, and finish
with cream when dishing up. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a fine
_julienne_ of chicken fillets and the same quantity of a _julienne_ of
truffles.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
702—CRÈME DE CHICORÉE DE BRUXELLES, otherwise BRUXELLOISE
Take one lb. of very fresh chicory, and stew it for a good half-hour in
one and one-half oz. of butter and the juice of one lemon.
Now mix one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel with it, and finish the
cooking very slowly. Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of
white consommé; heat, and complete with cream when serving.
Garnish with a _julienne_ of Belgian chicory, stewed and well drained.
703—CRÈME D’ÉPINARDS, otherwise FLORENTINE
Quickly parboil one lb. of shredded and well-washed spinach to which
a little sorrel may be added; drain, press, and add thereto one and
one-half pints of somewhat thin Béchamel. Complete the cooking; rub the
whole through tammy, and finish it with the necessary amount of fresh
cream.
Garnish with a _julienne_ of spinach, quickly parboiled and stewed in
butter.
704—CRÈME DE FÈVES NOUVELLES
Skin two-thirds lb. of new broad beans, freshly gathered, if possible.
Cook them for ten minutes in boiling salted water containing a sprig of
savory, and then add one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel. Complete
the cooking of the broad beans in the Béchamel; rub through tammy; add
one-half pint of white consommé or milk; heat without allowing to boil,
and finish the preparation with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with very small skinned broad beans, split in two and parboiled
with a sprig of savory.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
705—CRÈME D’IGNAMES, otherwise BRÉSILIENNE
Bake the yams in the oven, without peeling them. As soon as this is
done, cut them in two, remove their pulp, and quickly rub the latter
through a sieve while it is still hot. Dilute the purée with boiling
milk or thin Béchamel in the proportion of one pint of the former and
one-half pint of the latter per lb. of the purée. (This Béchamel should
be made from one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour per
quart of milk.)
Rub the whole through tammy, and finish the preparation in the usual
way. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Brazilian pearls, poached in
consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
706—CRÈME DE LAITUES, otherwise JUDIC
Parboil and stew in butter two medium-sized _ciseled_ lettuces, the
greenest leaves of which should have been discarded. Add these to one
and one-half pints of Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add one pint of white consommé; heat, and finish as
usual with cream.
Garnish with roundels of lettuce leaves, lightly coated with chicken
forcemeat, a bit of truffle laid in their centre, and the whole poached
at the last minute.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
707—CRÈME DE MAÏS, otherwise WASHINGTON
Cook some fresh maize in salted water (or use the preserved kind if
the fresh is out of season), and combine therewith an equal quantity
of thin Béchamel. Rub through tammy; heat, and finish with cream when
dishing up.
Garnish with grains of maize cooked in salted water.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté by substituting for the
Béchamel an excellent poultry velouté.
708—CRÈME D’OSEILLE A L’AVOINE
Pour one-quarter lb. of oatmeal diluted with one-half pint of cold milk
into one quart of slightly salted boiling milk. Stir over the fire
until the boil is reached; move the stewpan to the side of the fire,
and simmer for two hours.
This done, add six tablespoonfuls of a _fondue_ of sorrel and butter;
set to simmer again for one-quarter hour, and rub the whole through
tammy.
Complete the operation after the manner common to all creams.
709—CRÈME D’OSEILLE A L’ORGE
Proceed exactly as for No. 708, using the same quantities, but
substituting barley-meal for oatmeal.
_Remarks upon the Two above Creams._—They may also be prepared as
veloutés. Their garnish may be greatly varied, and may consist of
_chiffonade_ of lettuce and sorrel; pressed peeled tomatoes, cut
into dice and cooked in butter; poached rice or pastes (_i.e._,
vermicelli, &c.); fine well-cooked pearl barley; _brunoise_; small
_printaniers_, &c.
They belong, in fact, to the same order of soups as the purées of
sorrel with pastes, the recipes of which were given earlier in the
chapter.
710—CRÈME D’OXALIS
Peel and slice the oxalis roots, and half-cook them in salted water.
Drain, add it to one and one-half pints of Béchamel, and complete its
cooking gently in the sauce.
Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé, and finish
after the manner of other creams. Garnish with chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
711—CRÈME DE RIZ
Wash one-half lb. of rice in cold water; _blanch_ it; cool it, and cook
it very gently in one quart of white consommé. Crush in the mortar;
rub through tammy, and dilute the rice purée with one pint of white
consommé. Heat and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the
necessary quantity of cream.
Or pour four tablespoonfuls of rice cream, diluted with one-half pint
of cold milk, into three pints of boiling milk; set to boil, stirring
the while, and leave to cook very gently for twenty-five minutes. Rub
through tammy, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the
required quantity of cream.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
712—CRÈME D’ORGE
Wash three-quarters lb. of coarse pearl barley in lukewarm water, and
cook it gently for about two and one-half hours in one pint of white
consommé containing one piece of the white part of a stick of celery.
Crush in a mortar; rub through tammy; dilute the purée of barley with
one pint of white consommé; heat, and finish the preparation, when
dishing up, with the necessary quantity of cream.
This soup may also be prepared with barley-meal, the procedure in that
case being the same as that of the “Crème de Riz” above.
Garnish with very fine, well-cooked pearl barley.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
713—CRÈME DE VOLAILLE PRINCESSE
Mix one and one-half pints of thin Béchamel with one-half pint of
chicken purée. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé
to the preparation, or the same quantity of boiled milk; heat without
allowing to boil, and finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with twenty very small slices of chicken fillets, white
asparagus-heads, and chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
714—CRÈME REINE-MARGOT
Mix one-half pint of chicken purée with one pint of thin Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add one and one-half pints of white consommé and
one-quarter pint of almond milk (No. 678). Heat without allowing to
boil, and finish with cream.
Garnish with very small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined
with one oz. of pistachio purée per three oz. of forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
715—POTAGE A L’AURORE
Wash one-quarter lb. of fine pearl barley in plenty of water. Put it
into a stewpan with one quart of consommé, as much water, a faggot
comprising parsley, celery, and chervil, and set to cook very gently
for five hours. While the cooking progresses, take care to remove all
the skin which forms on the surface, in order that the cooking-liquor
may remain very clear.
When the barley is well cooked, transfer it to another stewpan, and
add to it four tablespoonfuls of a thick and very red tomato purée,
strained through muslin, and two tablespoonfuls of celery, minced in
_paysanne-fashion_, stewed in butter, and finally cooked in consommé.
This excellent soup should not be made too thick.
716—POTAGE BAGRATION GRAS
Cut two-thirds lb. of very white fillet of veal into large dice, and
stiffen these in butter without letting them acquire any colour. Add
one and one-quarter pints of thin velouté with a veal base, and set to
cook very gently.
Finely pound the veal; dilute the purée with velouté, and rub through
tammy. Add one pint of white consommé; heat without boiling, and
complete the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason of the yolks
of three eggs diluted with four tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of
butter.
Garnish with thin macaroni cut into short lengths, and send some grated
cheese to the table separately.
717—POTAGE BAGRATION MAIGRE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fresh velouté, and mix therewith
one-quarter pint of mushroom velouté. (For making this, see “Velouté
Agnès Sorel,” No. 671.)
Heat without boiling; pass through a strainer, and finish, when about
to serve, with the same leason as for ordinary velouté, and two and
one-half oz. of butter. Garnish with one fillet of sole, poached very
white, and cut into a _julienne_; twelve small quenelles of sole or
whiting forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and six crayfishes’
tails cut into small pieces.
718—POTAGE CHOISEUL
Prepare a “purée Conti” (No. 640) with an excellent _fumet_ of game.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sorrel, _ciseled_ and cooked in
butter, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.
719—POTAGE COMPIÈGNE
Prepare a light “Purée Soissonnaise”; butter it well, and add thereto
as garnish three tablespoonfuls of _ciseled_ sorrel cooked in butter,
and chervil _pluches_.
720—POTAGE DERBY
Add one-half pint of Soubise purée (No. 104) to one pint of “Crème
de Riz” (No. 711) flavoured with a very little curry. Rub the whole
through tammy.
Add one-half pint of white consommé, and heat without boiling.
Complete, when about to serve, with an ordinary leason and three oz. of
butter.
Garnish with twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with
one-third of its volume of foie-gras purée, one tablespoonful of little
truffle pearls, and an equal quantity of poached rice, each grain of
which must be kept distinct and separate.
721—POTAGE A LA DIANE
Cook one-half lb. of lentils with the usual garnish. Roast two
medium-sized partridges, keeping them slightly underdone, and remove
their fillets. Complete the cooking of the partridges with the lentils,
drained of their cooking-liquor, in one pint of game consommé.
Prepare a royale (No. 209) with the reserved fillets.
When the birds are cooked, bone them; pound their meat, and add thereto
the lentils and the cooking-liquor; rub through tammy.
Finish the purée with one and one-half pints of excellent thin game
stock, and complete the soup, when dishing up, with two oz. of butter
and two tablespoonfuls of reduced Madeira.
Garnish with the royale, cut into small regular crescents, and twelve
small crescents of very black truffle.
722—POTAGE ELISA
Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, and rub it through
tammy. Complete with one-half pint of white consommé; heat without
boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason, two and
one-half oz. of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of a _fondue_ of sorrel.
723—POTAGE FAVORI
Prepare one pint of a velouté of green asparagus; one-half pint of a
velouté of lettuce, and one-half pint of poultry velouté. Put all three
into a stewpan; add thereto the necessary quantity of white consommé
to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence; heat without
boiling, and pass through a strainer.
Finish the soup, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and two oz.
of butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _chiffonade_ of sorrel,
and one tablespoonful of green asparagus-heads.
724—POTAGE GERMINY
_Cisel_ and melt in butter three oz. of shredded sorrel, and add
thereto one and one-half pints of white consommé. A few minutes before
serving, pour into the consommé a leason composed of the yolks of six
eggs diluted with one-quarter pint of cream; set on the fire and stir,
after the manner of an English custard, _i.e._, until the preparation
begins to show signs of boiling.
Finish, away from the fire, with two and one-half oz. of butter, and
add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
_Remarks concerning the Possible Variation of this Soup._—The mode of
procedure adopted in the case of the Germiny could, if necessary, be
applied to all thick soups, and it would then constitute a class to
which the term “Cream” would be better suited than it is at present to
the soups thus designated.
Instead of the ordinary white consommé, which is used in its
preparation, a consommé may be used in which such vegetables as
carrots, turnips, peas, &c., are cooked, the latter being reserved for
the garnish, while the cooking-liquor is thickened with egg-yolks and
cream in accordance with the quantities and directions given in the
above recipe.
A carrot cream, a cream of fresh peas, or of asparagus-heads, prepared
in this way, would be much more delicate than those prepared after the
ordinary recipes.
The essential point in this series of soups is the leason; this should
consist of enough egg-yolks to render the preparations sufficiently
thick and creamy.
725—POTAGE AUX HERBES
Cut two oz. of sorrel leaves into a _julienne_, and stew them in butter
with one oz. of watercress leaves, one oz. of chervil _pluches_, and
young pimpernel. Add one and one-half pints of water, the necessary
salt, three medium-sized, peeled, and quartered potatoes, and cook
gently.
Drain and reserve the cooking-liquor; crush the potatoes; dilute the
purée with the cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy. Set to boil,
and finish, when dishing up, with three oz. of Printanier butter with
herbs, combined with a few leaves of sweet basil.
Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
726—POTAGE JUBILEE, otherwise BALVET
Prepare, according to the directions given (No. 648), one and one-half
pints of a purée of fresh peas, and add thereto one-half pint of
consommé of “La Petite Marmite.” Set to boil, and finish with two oz.
of butter.
Garnish with the vegetables from the Marmite, prepared as for Croûte au
Pot.
727—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS
Refer to the derivative soups of the “Purée de Pois” (No. 654).
728—POTAGE LAVALLIÈRE
Prepare one and one-half pints of “Crème de Volaille” (No. 713),
finished with a leason of egg-yolks and cream; also two-thirds pint of
“Crème de Céleri,” similarly finished, and combine the two creams.
Garnish with twelve small _profiterolles_, stuffed with chicken
forcemeat, and a royale of celery in dice.
729—POTAGE MADELEINE
Prepare and combine the following purées:—One-third pint of artichoke
purée, one-fifth pint of haricot-bean purée, one-seventh pint of
Soubise purée. Add one pint of white consommé; set to boil; pass
through a strainer, and finish, when dishing up, with two oz. of butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sago poached in one-half pint of
white consommé.
730—POTAGE MISS BETSY
Proceed exactly as for “Potage à l’Aurore” (No. 715), but (1) flavour
potage Miss Betsy with curry; (2) substitute for the celery peeled,
cored apples cut into dice and cooked in butter.
N.B.—Both these soups (Aurore and Miss Betsy) are subject to much
variation. All that is needed is to alter the flavouring element and
the garnish. Thus the quantity of tomato may be reduced by half, and
combined with one-quarter lb. of peas and their cooking-liquor (the
peas in this case being cooked in one pint of water with a little salt
and sugar); or with the same quantity of French beans, asparagus-heads,
or sorrel cooked in butter, &c.
731—POTAGE MONTESPAN
Add one-half pint of somewhat thick tapioca to one and one-half pints
of “Crème d’Asperges” (No. 697), prepared as directed. Garnish with
very fine peas cooked in the English fashion.
732—POTAGE NÉLUSKO
Mix one and one-half pints of rather liquid poultry velouté with
one-half pint of chicken purée. When serving, add an ordinary leason,
and finish with two and one-half oz. of hazel-nut butter.
Garnish with very small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with
one tablespoonful of hazel-nut powder per three oz. of the forcemeat.
733—POTAGE PETIT DUC
Take a fine woodcock; raise and reserve one of its fillets, and roast
it, taking care to keep it very underdone. Then remove the other
fillet, and with it prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale (No. 209).
Finely pound what remains of the woodcock, and combine with the
resulting purée one and one-half pints of game velouté prepared with
essence of woodcock. Cover the stewpan and place it in the _bain-marie_
for thirty-five minutes. Now rub the whole through tammy; heat without
boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with one and one-half oz. of
butter, one and one-half oz. of cooked foie-gras purée, diluted with
a few tablespoonfuls of the soup, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of
cream, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of burnt liqueur brandy.
Garnish with the royale cut into dice, and the reserved fillet of
woodcock, stiffened in butter at the last moment, and cut into thin
slices.
734—POTAGE RÉGENCE
Prepare one quart of barley cream in accordance with the directions
under No. 712. Finish it, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and
one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter.
Garnish with twelve small, grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat
finished with crayfish butter; one tablespoonful of small pearl barley,
well cooked; and six small cocks’ combs, freshly poached and very white.
735—POTAGE ROSSOLNIK
Prepare (1) one quart of light, poultry velouté combined with cucumber
juice; (2) ten pieces of parsley root and the same quantity of celery
root, turned to the shape of small, new carrots, and split crosswise at
their base; (3) twenty small lozenges of salted cucumber.
Parboil the roots and the cucumber lozenges for fifteen minutes, and
add them to the velouté when about to cook the latter. Cook the whole
gently for forty minutes, despumating the velouté the while. Finish
with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of cucumber juice, and an ordinary
leason.
Garnish with small chicken-forcemeat quenelles.
736—POTAGE DE SANTÉ
Cook quickly, in salted water, three medium-sized, peeled, and
quartered potatoes. When their pulps seem soft to the touch, drain
them; rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute the resulting purée
with one and one-half pints of white consommé. Add two tablespoonfuls
of sorrel melted in butter, and finish the preparation with an ordinary
leason and one oz. of butter.
Garnish with very thin roundels of French _soup-flute_ and chervil
_pluches_.
737—POTAGE SIGURD
Prepare one pint of “Velouté Parmentier” and one pint of tomato
velouté. Combine the two; heat, and finish, when dishing up, with two
and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with twenty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined
with one coffeespoonful of chopped capsicum, or capsicum in dice, per
three oz. of the forcemeat.
738—POTAGE SOLFERINO
Mince the white of two leeks, the third of a medium-sized carrot,
and half an onion, and stew the whole in one and one-half oz. of
butter. Add one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes cut into pieces, two
medium-sized, peeled potatoes, minced; moisten with two-thirds pint
of white consommé, and cook gently. Crush the vegetables; rub them
through tammy; complete the purée with the necessary quantity of white
consommé; set to boil, and finish, when dishing up, with two and
one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with twelve little balls of potato, raised by means of the
spoon-cutter, and cooked in salted water; two tablespoonfuls of French
beans cut into lozenges; and some chervil _pluches_.
739—POTAGE VIVIANE
Prepare one quart of “Crème de Volaille” (No. 713), and finish it with
the usual leason. Garnish with one tablespoonful of artichoke-bottom,
cut into dice, the same quantity of carrot dice, both gently cooked in
butter, and one tablespoonful of truffle dice.
740—POTAGE WINDSOR
_Blanch_ and cool one small, boned calf’s foot, and cook it gently in a
good white-wine _mirepoix_. Prepare one and one-half pints of “Crème
de Riz” (No. 711), and add thereto the cooking-liquor of the calf’s
foot, strained through muslin.
Finish this cream, when about to serve, with an ordinary leason, one
and one-half tablespoonfuls of a slight infusion of turtle-soup herbs,
and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with a _julienne_ of half of the calf’s foot and twenty small
quenelles consisting of a purée of hard-boiled egg-yolks and chicken
forcemeat, these two preparations being in the proportion of two-thirds
and one-third respectively.
741—SOUPE AUX ABATIS DE VOLAILLE A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the necks into three, the gizzards into four, and the pinions
into two. Brown one-half lb. of these giblets in a thick-bottomed
stewpan with one oz. of butter. Sprinkle with one tablespoonful of
flour; slightly colour the latter, and moisten with one quart of white
consommé and one pint of water. Add a faggot containing one stick of
celery, and set to cook gently for three hours.
When the pieces of giblets are cooked, drain them, trim them, and put
them into a stewpan with one dessertspoonful of parboiled rice and
a heaped tablespoonful of the white of celery, minced and fried in
butter. Strain the cooking-liquor of the giblets, through a strainer,
over the enumerated garnishes; set to cook gently for another quarter
of an hour; season strongly with pepper, and serve.
742—SOUPE AUX CERISES
Stone two-thirds lb. of small, fleshy cherries, and put twenty aside
for garnishing purposes. Put the others into a sugar-boiler with
two-thirds pint of hot water, a small strip of lemon rind, and a
fragment of cinnamon, and set to boil quickly for eight minutes.
Also boil in another sugar-boiler one-half pint of Port or Bordeaux
wine. Crush half of the cherry-stones in the mortar; put them into the
boiled wine, and let them infuse, away from the fire.
Rub the cooked cherries through a fine sieve; dilute the purée with the
juice thickened by means of one tablespoonful of fecula moistened with
cold water; add the cherries put aside for the garnish, and one-half
tablespoonful of castor sugar, and again set to boil for four minutes.
Complete the preparation with the infusion strained through muslin;
pour it into the soup-tureen, and add a few _biscottes_.
For the sake of variety, lady’s-finger biscuits may be substituted for
the _biscottes_.
743—COCKY-LEEKI SOUP
Set half a fowl to cook very gently in one and one-half pints of light
and clear veal stock with a few aromatics.
Also prepare a _julienne_ of the white of three leeks; stew this in
butter without colouration, and complete the cooking thereof in the
cooking-liquor of the fowl, strained and poured carefully away.
Pour the preparation into the soup-tureen, and add the meat of the
fowl, cut into a _julienne_.
Serve some stewed prunes separately, but this is optional.
744—SOUPE AUX FOIES DE VOLAILLE
Make a roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and as much flour. When
it has acquired a nice, light-brown colour, moisten it with one quart
of white consommé or brown stock, and set to boil, stirring the while.
Add one-half lb. of raw chickens’ livers rubbed through a sieve, and
set to cook for fifteen minutes. Rub the whole through tammy; season
strongly with pepper; heat, and complete the preparation, at the last
moment, with one-quarter lb. of sliced chickens’ livers, tossed in
butter, and one wineglass of good Madeira.
745—SOUPE JULIENNE DARBLAY
Cook quickly in salted water two small, peeled, and quartered potatoes.
Drain them, rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute the purée with
one and one-half pints of white consommé. Add three tablespoonfuls of a
_julienne_ made in accordance with the above recipe; heat, and finish
the preparation with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of
butter.
746—MINESTRONE
Brown the minced white of two small leeks and one-third of an onion,
also minced, in one oz. of chopped, fresh breast of bacon, and
one-half oz. of grated, fat bacon. Moisten with one and one-half pints
of white consommé, and add one-third of a carrot, one-third of a
turnip, half a stick of celery, two oz. of small cabbage, and one small
potato, or one-half of a medium-sized one, all of which vegetables must
be finely minced.
About twenty-five minutes after the soup has started cooking, complete
it with two tablespoonfuls of peas, a few French beans cut into
lozenges, and one and one-half oz. of rice, or the same quantity of
very thin macaroni broken into very small pieces.
This done, set to cook again for thirty minutes. A few minutes before
serving, add to the soup one small, crushed clove of garlic, three
leaves of sweet basil, and a small pinch of chopped chervil _pluches_;
mix the whole with one-half tablespoonful of grated bacon.
Send to the table, separately, at the same time as the soup some
freshly grated Gruyère.
747—MILLE-FANTI
First make the following preparation:—Beat two small eggs to a stiff
froth, and mix therewith one and one-half oz. of the crumb of very good
white bread, one oz. of grated Parmesan, and a little nutmeg. Boil one
and two-thirds pints of white consommé, and pour the above preparation
therein, little by little, stirring briskly the while with the whisk.
Then move the stewpan to the side of the fire, put the lid on, and set
to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.
When about to serve, stir the soup with a whisk, and pour it into the
soup-tureen.
748—MULLIGATAWNY SOUP
Cut a small fowl, or half a medium-sized one, into little pieces, and
put these in a stewpan with a few roundels of carrot and onion, a small
bunch of parsley and celery, one-half oz. of mushroom parings and one
quart of white consommé. Set to boil, and then let cook gently.
Also lightly brown in butter half a medium-sized onion, chopped;
besprinkle it with one dessertspoonful of fecula and one coffeespoonful
of curry; moisten with the cooking-liquor of the fowl, strained through
a sieve; boil, and set to cook gently for seven or eight minutes. Now
rub the whole through tammy, and leave it to despumate for twenty
minutes, adding one tablespoonful of consommé, from time to time, with
the view of promoting the despumation, _i.e._, the purification of the
soup.
When about to serve, finish the preparation with three or four
tablespoonfuls of cream. Pour the whole into the soup-tureen; add
a portion of the meat of the fowl, cut into thin slices, and serve
separately two oz. of rice à l’Indienne.
749—SOUPE AUX GOMBOS OU OKRA
This soup is held in high esteem by Americans. It is served either with
garnish, as I direct below, or as a consommé, hot or cold, or in cups,
after it has been strained.
Fry one medium-sized chopped onion in two oz. of butter, without
letting it acquire any colour. Add one-quarter lb. of fresh lean bacon,
or raw ham cut into medium-sized dice; fry for a few minutes, and add
about one lb. of boned chicken-meat cut into large dice (the white
parts of the chicken are used in preference); let these ingredients
stiffen well; take care to stir fairly often, and moisten with two
quarts of white chicken consommé. Boil, and set to cook gently for
twenty or twenty-five minutes with lid on.
Now add about one-half lb. of peeled gombo, cut in coarse
_paysanne-fashion_, and three or four medium-sized tomatoes, peeled,
_concassed_, and with their seeds withdrawn.
When the gombos are well cooked, carefully remove all grease from the
preparation; test the seasoning, and, if necessary, add a few drops of
Worcestershire sauce.
Garnish the soup with two or three tablespoonfuls of plainly-cooked
rice.
N.B.—This soup is excellent if it be finished with one-quarter pint
of cream per quart. A cream of gombos may also be prepared, which may
be garnished with the dice of chicken meat. In the latter case, the
garnish of rice is optional.
750—SOUPE A LA PAYSANNE
Finely mince one small carrot, one small turnip, one leek, one-third
of a stick of celery, one-third of an onion, and some cabbage leaves.
Stew the vegetables in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half
pints of white consommé, and set to boil. A few minutes having elapsed,
add two small potatoes minced like the other vegetables, and complete
the cooking gently. Send separately some roundels of _soup-flutes_.
751—SOUPE AUX POIREAUX ET POMMES DE TERRE, otherwise A LA BONNE FEMME
Finely mince the white of four medium-sized leeks. Put this into a
stewpan with one oz. of butter, and stew gently for a quarter of an
hour. Then add three medium-sized quartered potatoes, cut into roundels
the thickness of pennies. Moisten with one pint of white consommé; add
the necessary quantity of salt, and set to cook gently. When about
to serve, finish the soup with one pint of boiled milk and one and
one-half oz. of butter; pour it into the soup-tureen, and add twelve
roundels of French _soup-flutes_, cut as thinly as possible.
752—SOUPE AUX ROGNONS
Proceed exactly as for “Soupe aux Foies de Volaille,” but substitute
for the garnish of sliced livers one of calf’s or sheep’s kidney cut
into large dice, or sliced, and briskly tossed in butter just before
dishing up.
Finish the soup similarly to the preceding one, _i.e._, with Madeira.
CHAPTER XIV
FISH
In matters culinary, fish comprise not only the vertebrates of the sea
and river, but also the esculent crustacea, mollusca, and chelonia,
and one batrachian. Of course, the animals representing these various
classes differ enormously in respect of their importance as articles
of diet. Fresh-water fish, for instance, with the exception of salmon
and some kinds of trout, are scarcely ever eaten in England; and
the same applies to the frog. As regards salt-water fish, although
certain species, such as the sole and the turbot, are in great demand,
many other and excellent ones which are looked upon as inferior are
seldom put into requisition by first-class cookery. Thus, _Brill_,
_Red Mullet_, and _Bass_ are not nearly so popular as they deserve
to be, and never appear on a menu of any importance. No doubt,
Fashion—ever illogical and wayward—exercises her tyrannical sway here,
as in other matters of opinion; for it will be found, even when the
distinctions among fish are once established, that there exist a host
of incongruities in the unwritten law. Fresh cod is a case in point;
should this fish appear on the menu of a grand dinner given by Royalty,
the guests would not think it at all out of place; but if the chef
of a large modern hotel ventured to include it among the items of a
plain table-d’hôte dinner he would most probably incur the scorn and
indignation of his clientèle.
This example, than which none could be better suited to our case,
successfully shows that the culinary value of the fish has far less to
do with the vogue the latter enjoys than the very often freakish whims
of the public.
One can but deplore the arbitrary proscription which so materially
reduces the resources at the disposal of a cook, more particularly at a
time when the universally imperious cry is for novelty and variety in
dishes and menus respectively; and one can only hope that reason and
good sense may, at no remote period, intervene to check the purposeless
demands of both entertainers and their guests in this respect.
Having regard to these considerations, I have omitted from this work,
which is really a thesaurus of selected recipes and not a complete
formulary, all those fish enumerated below, which are very rarely eaten
in England, and the recipes for which could therefore serve no purpose:—
753—SHAD, chiefly served grilled.
754—FRESH ANCHOVIES, extremely rare, and may be grilled or fried.
755—EELS, considered as common, and principally used in the preparation
of a pie held in high esteem by the frequenters of coffee-shops along
the banks of the Thames. Small eels are also fried. But the many ways
of dressing them which are common on the Continent are seldom practised
in England.
756—PIKE, plentiful and of excellent quality; only used in the
preparation of forcemeat and quenelles; the directions for the latter
will be given later. Albeit they are sometimes served crimped, or
cooked whole in a _court-bouillon au bleu_, accompanied by parsley or
caper sauce, &c. Small pike are generally prepared “à la Meunière,” or
fried.
757—CARP, in still less demand than the pike, and only prized for its
milt. It must, however, be admitted that in England, more than anywhere
else, I believe, this fish is too often spoilt by the taint of mud.
758—DORADO, served boiled with any of the English fish sauces; but, in
my opinion, it is best grilled, after the manner generally adopted in
the South of France.
759—STURGEON, very rare; it is braised, like veal.
760—FÉRA, very scarce on the market; comes from the Swiss or Savoy
lakes, and is only served à la Meunière.
761—GUDGEON, very abundant in all rivers, but never eaten.
762—FROGS, the pet abomination of all classes of the population, with
but few exceptions; nevertheless “Nymphes à l’Aurore,” the recipe of
which I gave among the hors-d’œuvres, are generally appreciated.
763—FRESH HERRINGS, abundant and of excellent quality; seldom used in
first-class cookery, except, perhaps, for their milt. Bloaters and
kippered herrings are, with reason, preferred; of these I shall speak
later.
764—LAMPREYS, chiefly used in preparing pies similar to those referred
to in No. 755.
765—FRESH-WATER HERRINGS, like the Féra, come from Switzerland or
Savoy, and are very scarce on the English market. Prepared especially à
la Meunière.
766—LOTTE, very scarce on the English market; only prized for its liver.
767—MOSTELE, only caught in the region of Monaco; cannot bear
transport; especially served à la Meunière or à l’Anglaise.
768—MUSSELS, only used as garnish.
769—NONAT, replaced in England by whitebait, which it greatly resembles.
770—PERCH, very moderately appreciated; chiefly served fried, when
small, and boiled with some fish sauce when large.
771—SKATE, generally served boiled, with caper sauce; occasionally with
brown butter. The smaller specimens are better fried. Often offered for
sale, crimped.
772—SARDINES, generally of inferior quality; used in the preparation of
sprats.
773—STERLET, almost unknown in England.
774—TURTLE, with the exception of those firms which make this their
speciality, is almost exclusively used in preparing Turtle Soup. The
flippers are sometimes served braised au Madère.
I do not think it at all necessary to lay any further stress upon the
series of preparations bearing the names of _Croquettes_, _Cromesquis_,
_Côtelettes_ (côtelettes here only mean those prepared from cooked
fish, and which are really but a form of croquettes), _Coquilles_,
_Bouchées_, _Palets_, &c., which may be made from any kind of cooked
fish. These preparations are so well known that it would be almost
superfluous to repeat their recipes.
775—DIVERS WAYS OF COOKING FISH
The divers ways of cooking fish are all derived from one or another of
the following methods:—
(1) Boiling in salted water, which may be applied equally well to
large pieces and slices of fish.
(2) Frying, particularly suited to small specimens and thin slices of
larger ones.
(3) Cooking in butter, otherwise “à la Meunière,” best suited to the
same pieces as No. 2.
(4) Poaching, with short moistening, especially suited to fillets or
small specimens.
(5) Braising, used particularly for large pieces.
(6) Grilling, for small specimens and collops.
(7) Cooking au Gratin, same as grilling.
776—THE BOILING OF FISH IN SALTED WATER
The procedure changes according as to whether the fish is to be cooked
whole or in slices. If whole, after having properly cleaned, washed,
and trimmed it, lay it on the drainer of the utensil best suited to
its shape; _i.e._, a fish-kettle. Cover it with water, salt it in the
proportion of one-quarter oz. of salt per quart of water, cover the
utensil, and bring the liquid to the boil. As soon as this is done skim
and move the kettle to the side of the fire, where the cooking of the
fish may be completed without boiling.
If the fish is cut into slices, plunge these, which should never be
cut too thin, into boiling salted water, and move the fish-kettle
containing them to the side of the fire; complete their cooking slowly
without allowing the water to boil.
The object of this process is to concentrate, inside the fish, all the
juices contained in its flesh, whereof a large portion escapes when the
cut fish is plunged in cold water gradually brought to the boil. If
this method is not applied to large fish, cooked whole, the reason is
that the sudden immersion of these in boiling water would cause such a
shrinking of their flesh that they would burst and thereby be spoiled.
In the case of certain kinds of fish, such as Turbot and Brill, milk is
added to the water in the proportion of one-eighth of the latter, the
object being to increase the whiteness of the fish.
For the various kinds of Salmon and Trout, the _court-bouillon_
(No. 163) is used in the place of salted water, but the general working
process remains the same.
The boiled fish is dished on a napkin and drainer; it is garnished with
fresh parsley; and the sauce announced on the menu, together with some
plain-boiled and floury potatoes, is sent to the table separately.
777—THE FRYING OF FISH
In Part I. of this work I explained the general theory of frying
(Chapter X., No. 262); I shall now, therefore, only concern myself with
the details of the operation in its relation to fish.
As a rule, frying should never be resorted to for very large fish
or very thick slices of the latter, for, owing to the very high
temperature that the operation enjoins, the outside of the fish would
be dried up before the inside had even become affected.
If the fish to be fried is somewhat thick, it is best to cut several
gashes in it, lengthwise and across, these being deeper and closer
together the thicker the fish may be. The object of this measure is to
facilitate the cooking, but the measure itself is quite unnecessary
when dealing with small fish. In the case of flat-fish, partly detach
the two underlying fillets on either side of the back-bone instead of
gashing them.
All fish intended for frying (except _Blanchailles_ and Whitebait)
should first be steeped in salted milk, then rolled in flour before
being plunged into the hot fat. If they be “_panés à l’anglaise_,”
however, as they generally are in England, the milk may be dispensed
with, in which case, after they have been lightly coated with flour,
they are completely dipped in an _anglaise_ (No. 174) and afterwards
rolled in white bread-crumbs. They should then be patted with the blade
of a knife so as to ensure the cohesion of the whole coating, and,
finally, the latter should be criss-crossed with the back of a knife
with the view of improving the appearance when fried.
Fried fish are served either on a napkin, on a drainer, or on special
dish-papers. They are garnished with fried parsley and properly trimmed
half-lemons.
778—THE COOKING OF FISH A LA MEUNIÈRE
This excellent mode of procedure is only suited to small fish or
the slices of larger ones. Nevertheless, it may be resorted to for
chicken-turbots, provided their weight do not exceed four lbs.
The operation consists in cooking the fish (or slices or fillets of
fish) in the frying-pan with very hot butter, after having seasoned
them and sprinkled them with flour. If the fish are very small,
ordinary butter is used; if, on the other hand, they are large, the
procedure demands clarified butter. When the fish is sufficiently
coloured on one side, it is turned over for the completion of the
operation. This done, it is transferred, by means of a spatula, to a
hot dish, whereon, after having been salted, it is sent to the table.
It may be served as it is with a garnish of trimmed half-lemons.
Fish prepared in this way are termed “dorés” (_gilded_), “Soles dorés,”
“Turbotins dorés,” &c., in order to distinguish them from those
prepared à la Meunière.
If the fish is announced “à la Meunière,” a few drops of lemon should
be sprinkled upon it; it should be seasoned with salt and pepper, and
garnished with _concassed_, scalded parsley. At the last moment a
piece of butter, in proportion to the size of the fish, is put in the
frying-pan, and is heated until it begins to brown slightly. This is
poured over the fish immediately, and the latter is sent to the table
at once while still covered by the froth resulting from the contact of
the butter with the parsley.
779—THE POACHING OF FISH
This method is best suited to sole, chicken-turbots, and brill, as well
as to the fillets of various fish.
Having laid the fish to be poached in a baking-tray or a sautépan,
either of which should have been previously buttered, season it
moderately with salt and moisten with a little very white fish or
mushroom _fumet_; very often the two latter are mixed. Cover the
utensil, push it into a moderate oven, and baste from time to time,
especially when a large fish is cooking. When the fish is done,
drain it carefully, place it on a dish, and, as a rule, reduce the
poaching-liquor and add it to the sauce. Poached fish are always served
sauced; _i.e._, covered with the sauce which properly forms their
accompaniment. More often than not they are garnished after the manner
which will be described later.
I most emphatically urge: (1) the use of very little fish _fumet_ for
the poaching, but this _fumet_ should be perfect and should, above
all, not be cooked for longer than the required time; (2) that the
fish be not covered with buttered paper as is often done, for nowadays
a suitable paper is very rarely found. All papers found on the market
are, owing to the chemical products used in their manufacture, liable
to impart a more or less pungent smell to the objects they enclose,
which in either degree would prove seriously prejudicial to the
preparation.
These remarks not only apply to fish, but to all those objects with
which paper was formerly used at some stage in their cooking process.
780—THE BRAISING OF FISH
This method is generally applied to whole or sliced salmon, to trout,
and to chicken-turbot. Sometimes the fish treated in this way is larded
on one side with strips of bacon-fat, truffles, gherkins, or carrots.
The mode of procedure is exactly the same as that described under
the “Braising of White Meats” (No. 248). Moisten these braisings in
the proportion of one-half with white wine or red wine (according as
to how the fish is to be served), and for the other half use a light
fish _fumet_. Place the fish on the drainer of a fish-kettle just
large enough to hold the former, and moisten in such wise that the
cooking-liquor at the beginning of the operation does not cover more
than three-quarters of the depth of the fish. Unless it be for a Lenten
dish, the fish may be covered with slices of bacon while cooking. In
any case, baste it often. Take care not to close the lid down too
tightly, in order that the liquor may be reduced simultaneously with
the cooking of the fish.
When the operation is almost completed, take the lid off the
fish-kettle with the view of glazing the fish; then take the former
off the fire. Now withdraw the drainer with the fish upon it, and lay
it athwart the top of the fish-kettle, and let it drain; tilt the fish
on to a dish, and cover the latter pending its despatch to the table.
Strain the stock remaining in the fish-kettle through a strainer; let
it stand for ten minutes, remove all the grease that has formed on its
surface, and use it to complete the sauce as I directed above.
Braised fish are generally accompanied by a garnish, the constituents
of which I shall give in the particular recipes relating to braising.
781—THE GRILLING OF FISH
This method is best suited to small fish, to medium-sized
chicken-turbots, and to large-sectioned fish.
Unless they are very small, it is best to gash both sides of fish
intended for grilling; the reasons given above for this measure
likewise apply here.
All white and naturally dry fish should be rolled in flour and
besprinkled with butter or very good oil before being placed on the
grill to be exposed to the heat of the fire. The flour forms a crust
around the fish, which keeps it from drying and gives it that golden
colour quite peculiar to objects thus treated.
Salmon, trout, red mullet, mackerel, and herrings, the flesh whereof is
fatty, need not be floured, but only besprinkled with melted butter.
Owing to the somewhat fragile texture of most fish, a special double
gridiron is used, by means of which they may be turned without fear of
damage. This gridiron is placed upon the ordinary grill. I have already
given in Part I. of this work the radical principles of grilling
(Nos. 257 and 260); to this, therefore, the reader is begged to refer.
Grilled fish are served on a very hot dish, without paper or a napkin;
they are garnished with fresh parsley and grooved slices of lemon.
Butter à la Maître d’Hôtel, anchovy butter, devilled sauce, Roberts’
sauce Escoffier, and butter à la Ravigote constitute the best adjuncts
to grilled fish.
782—THE COOKING OF FISH AU GRATIN
I described all the details of this method under Complete Gratin
(No. 269), to which I must ask the reader to refer. This process
is best suited to small fish, such as sole, whiting, red mullet,
chicken-turbot, &c.
783—THE CRIMPING OF FISH
Crimped fish is quite an English speciality. This method of preparation
is applied more particularly to salmon, fresh cod, haddock, and skate.
The first three of these fish may be prepared whole or in slices, while
skate is always cut into more or less large pieces after it has been
skinned on both sides.
In order to crimp a whole fish, it should be taken as it leaves the
water. Lay it on something flat, and make deep lateral gashes on both
its sides from head to tail. Allow a space of about one and one-half
inches to two inches between each gash. This done, put the fish to soak
in very cold water for an hour or so. When the fish is to be cooked
sliced, divide it up as soon as it is caught, and put the slices to
soak in very cold water, as in the case of the whole fish.
But does this barbarous method, which stiffens and contracts the flesh
of the fish, affect its quality so materially as connoisseurs would
have us believe?
It is very difficult to say, and opinions on the matter are divided.
This, however, is certain, that fish prepared in the way above
described is greatly relished by many.
Whether whole or sliced, crimped fish is always boiled in salted water.
Its cooking presents a real difficulty, in that it must be stopped at
the precise moment when it is completed, any delay in this respect
proving prejudicial to the quality of the dish.
Crimped fish is served like the boiled kind, and all the sauces
suited to the latter likewise obtain with the former. Besides the
selected sauce, send a sauceboat to the table containing some of the
cooking-liquor of the fish.
SALMON (SAUMON)
Salmon caught on the Rhine, or Dutch salmon, is generally considered
the most delicate that may be had, though, in my opinion, that obtained
from certain English rivers, such, for instance, as the Severn, is by
no means inferior to the foregoing. Here in England this excellent
fish is held in the high esteem it deserves, and the quantity consumed
in this country is considerable. It is served as plainly as possible,
either boiled, cold or hot, grilled, or à la Meunière; but whatever be
the method of preparation, it is always accompanied by cucumber salad.
The slices of salmon, however, thick or thin, large or small, take the
name of “Darnes.”
784—BOILED SALMON
Boiled salmon, whether whole or sliced, should be cooked in
_court-bouillon_ in accordance with directions given at the beginning
of the chapter (No. 776). All fish sauces are suited to it, but more
especially the following, viz.:—Hollandaise sauce, Mousseline sauce,
Melted butter, Shrimp sauce, Nantua sauce, Cardinal sauce, &c.
_Crimped_ salmon admits of precisely the same sauces.
785—BROILED SALMON
Cut the salmon to be grilled in slices from one inch to one and
one-half inches thick. Season with table-salt, sprinkle with melted
butter or oil, and grill it for the first part on a rather brisk fire,
taking care to moderate the latter towards the close of the operation.
Allow about twenty-five minutes for the grilling of a slice of salmon
one and one-half inches thick. Butter à la Maître d’Hôtel, anchovy
butter, and devilled sauce Escoffier are the most usual adjuncts to
grilled salmon.
786—SAUMON A LA MEUNIÈRE
Having cut the salmon into moderately thick slices, season these,
dredge them slightly, and cook them in the frying-pan with very hot
clarified butter.
It is important that the salmon be set and that the cooking be rapid.
Serve it in either of the two ways indicated above (No. 778).
=Various Ways of Preparing Salmon=
In addition to the three methods of serving salmon described above,
and those cold preparations with which I shall deal later, the fish
in question lends itself to a whole host of dressings which are of
the greatest utility in the varying of menus. The principles of these
dressings I shall now give.
787—CADGERÉE OF SALMON
Prepare one lb. of cooked salmon, cleared of bones and skin, and cut
into small pieces; four hard-boiled eggs cut into dice; one lb. of
well-cooked pilaff rice; and three-quarters pint of Béchamel flavoured
with curry.
Dish in a hot timbale, alternating the various products, and finish
with a coating of sauce.
788—CÔTELETTES DE SAUMON
Prepare some _mousseline_ forcemeat for salmon, the quantity whereof
will be in accordance with the number of cutlets to be made, and rub it
through a coarse sieve. Line the bottom and sides of some buttered tin
moulds, shaped like cutlets, with a coating one-half inch thick of the
prepared forcemeat.
Fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with a cold
_salpicon_ of mushrooms and truffles, thickened by means of reduced
Allemande sauce, and cover this with the forcemeat.
Set the cutlets to poach, turn out the moulds; treat the cutlets _à
l’anglaise_, and cook them with clarified butter.
Arrange in a circle round a dish, put a frill on a piece of fried bread
counterfeiting the bone of the cutlet, garnish with fried parsley, and
send to the table, separately, a “Dieppoise” sauce, Shrimp sauce, or
a purée of fresh vegetables, such as peas, carrots, &c. In the latter
case, serve at the same time a sauce in keeping with the garnish.
789—COULIBIAC DE SAUMON
_Preparation._—Have ready two lbs. of ordinary brioche paste without
sugar (No. 2368). Stiffen in butter one and one-half lbs. of small
salmon collops, and prepare one-sixth lb. of mushrooms and one
chopped onion (both of which should be fried in butter), one-half lb.
of semolina kache (No. 2292) or the same weight of rice cooked in
consommé; two hard-boiled eggs, chopped; and one lb. of _vesiga_,
roughly chopped and cooked in consommé.
For this weight of cooked _vesiga_ about two and one-half oz. of dried
_vesiga_ will be needed, which should be soaked for at least four hours
in cold water, and then cooked for three and one-half hours in white
consommé. It may also be cooked in water.
Roll the brioche paste into rectangles twelve inches long by eight
inches wide, and spread thereon in successive layers the kache or
the rice, the collops of salmon, the chopped _vesiga_, the eggs, the
mushrooms, and the onion, and finish with a layer of kache or rice.
Moisten the edges of the paste and draw the longest ends of it towards
each other over the enumerated layers of garnish, and join them so as
to properly enclose the latter.
Now fold the two remaining ends over to the centre in a similar way.
Place the coulibiac thus formed on a baking-tray, and take care to turn
it over in order that the joining parts of the paste lie underneath.
Set the paste to rise for twenty-five minutes, sprinkle some melted
butter over the coulibiac, sprinkle with some very fine raspings, make
a slit in the top for the escape of vapour, and bake in a moderate oven
for forty-five or fifty minutes. Fill the coulibiac with freshly-melted
butter when withdrawing it from the oven.
=Darnes de Saumon=
The few recipes dealing with “Darnes de Saumon,” which I give below,
may also be adapted to whole salmon after the size of the fish has been
taken into account in measuring the time allowed for cooking.
790—DARNE DE SAUMON CHAMBORD
As already explained, the term “darne” stands for a piece of salmon cut
from the middle of that fish, and the size of a darne is in proportion
to the number of people it is intended for.
Proceed after the manner directed under “The Braising of Fish”
(No. 780); moisten in the proportion of two-thirds with excellent
red wine and one-third with fish stock, calculating the quantity in
such wise that it may cover no more than two-thirds of the depth of
the darne. Bring to the boil, then set to braise gently, and glaze the
darne at the last moment.
_Garnish and Sauce._—Garnish with quenelles of truffled _mousseline_
forcemeat for fish, moulded by means of a spoon; two large ornamented
quenelles; truffles fashioned like olives; pieces of milt dipped in
Villeroy sauce, treated _à l’anglaise_ and fried when about to dish
up; small gudgeon or smelts treated similarly to the milt, and trussed
crayfish cooked in _court-bouillon_.
The sauce is a Genevoise, made from the reduced cooking-liquor of the
darne.
_Dishing Up._—Surround the darne by the garnishes enumerated, arranging
them tastefully, and pierce it with two _hatelets_, each garnished with
a small truffle, an ornamented quenelle, and a crayfish.
Send the sauce to the table separately.
791—DARNE DE SAUMON DAUMONT
Poach the darne in a _court-bouillon_ prepared beforehand.
_Dishing Up and Garnish._—Surround the darne by medium-sized mushrooms
stewed in butter and garnished with small crayfish tails cohered by
means of a few tablespoonfuls of Nantua sauce; small round quenelles
of _mousseline_ forcemeat for fish, decorated with truffles, and some
slices of milt treated _à l’anglaise_, and fried when about to dish up.
Serve the Nantua sauce separately.
792—DARNE DE SAUMON LUCULLUS
Skin one side of the darne, lard it with truffles, and braise it in
champagne.
_The Garnish Round the Darne._—Very small garnished patties of crayfish
tails; small _cassolettes_ of milt; small _mousselines_ of oysters,
poached in _dariole-moulds_.
_Sauce._—The braising-liquor of the darne finished by means of
ordinary and crayfish butter in equal quantities. Send it to the table
separately.
793—DARNE DE SAUMON NESSELRODE
Remove the spine and all other internal bones. Stuff the darne with raw
lobster _mousse_ stiffened by means of a little pike forcemeat.
Line a well-buttered, round and even raised-pie mould with a thin layer
of hot-water, raised-pie paste (this is made from one lb. of flour,
four oz. of lard, one egg, and a little lukewarm water), which should
be prepared in advance and made somewhat stiff. Now garnish the inside
of the pie with thin slices of bacon and place the darne upright in it.
(To simplify the operation the darne may be stuffed at this stage.)
Cover the pie with a layer of the same paste, pinch its edges with
those of the original lining, make a slit in the top for the steam to
escape, and cook in a good oven.
When the pie is almost baked, prod it repeatedly with a larding-needle;
when the latter is withdrawn clear of all stuffing the pie should be
taken from the oven. This done, turn it upside down in order to drain
away the melted bacon and other liquids inside it, but do not let it
drop from the mould. Then tilt it on to a dish and take off the mould.
Do not break the crust except at the dining-table.
_Sauce._—Serve an American sauce with the pie, the former being
prepared from the remains of the lobsters used in making the _mousse_,
finished with cream, and garnished with very fine oysters (cleared of
their beards), poached when about to dish up.
794—DARNE DE SAUMON RÉGENCE
Braise the darne in white wine in accordance with the directions given
in No. 780.
_Garnish._—Surround the darne by spoon-moulded quenelles of whiting
forcemeat prepared with crayfish butter, oysters cleared of their
beards and poached, small, very white mushrooms, and poached slices of
milt.
Normande sauce finished with truffle essence.
795—DARNE DE SAUMON ROYALE
Braise the darne in Sauterne wine.
_Garnish._—Bunches of crayfishes’ tails, small quenelles of
_mousseline_ forcemeat for fish, small mushrooms, slices of truffle,
and little balls of potato raised by means of the large, round
spoon-cutter, and cooked _à l’anglaise_.
Send a Normande sauce separately.
796—DARNE DE SAUMON VALOIS
Poach the darne in a white wine _court-bouillon_.
_Garnish._—Potato balls raised with the spoon-cutter or turned to the
shape of olives, and cooked in salted water, poached slices of milt,
and trussed crayfish cooked in _court-bouillon_.
Send a Valois sauce separately.
797—MOUSSELINE DE SAUMON
In Part I. I dealt with the preparation of _mousseline_ forcemeat
(No. 195), and also the method of poaching spoon-moulded quenelles
(No. 205). Now _mousselines_ are only large quenelles which derive
their name from the very light forcemeat of which they are composed.
These _mousseline_ quenelles are always moulded with the ordinary
tablespoon, they are garnished on top with a fine, raw slice of the
fish under treatment, and poached after the manner already described.
798—MOUSSELINE ALEXANDRA
Having made the salmon _mousseline_ forcemeat, mould the quenelles
and place them, one by one, in a buttered sautépan. Place a small,
round and very thin slice of salmon on each, and poach them in a very
moderate oven with lid on the utensil containing them.
Drain on a piece of linen, arrange them in a circle on a dish, place a
slice of truffle upon each slice of salmon, coat with Mornay sauce, and
glaze.
Garnish the centre of the dish with very small peas or asparagus-heads
cohered with butter just before dishing up.
799—MOUSSELINE DE SAUMON A LA TOSCA
Combine one and one-half oz. of crayfish cream-cullis with each pound
of the salmon _mousseline_ forcemeat. Mould and poach as above, drain,
and arrange in a circle on a dish.
Garnish each _mousseline_ with a thin slice of milt cooked in
lightly-browned butter, four crayfish tails cut lengthwise into two,
and a slice of truffle at each end. Coat with a light Mornay sauce,
finished with crayfish butter, and glaze quickly.
N.B.—In addition to these two recipes, all the garnishes suitable
for fillets of sole may be applied to _mousselines_. Garnishes of
early-season vegetable purées also suit them admirably, and therein
lies an almost inexhaustible source of variety.
800—COLD SALMON
When salmon is to be served cold it should, as far as possible, be
cooked, either whole or in large pieces, in the _court-bouillon_ given
under No. 163 and cooled in the latter. Pieces cooked separately may
seem better or may be more easily made to look sightly, but their meat
is drier than that of the salmon cooked whole. And what is lost in
appearance with the very large pieces is more than compensated for by
their extra quality.
In dishing cold salmon the skin may be removed and the fillets bared,
so that the fish may be more easily decorated, but the real gourmet
will always prefer the salmon served in its natural silver vestment.
In decorating cold salmon use pieces of cucumber, anchovy fillets,
capers, slices of tomato, curled-leaf parsley, &c.
I am not partial to the decorating of salmon with softened butter,
coloured or not, laid on by means of the piping-bag. Apart from the
fact that this method of decoration is rarely artistic, the butter used
combines badly with the cold sauces and the meat of the salmon on the
diner’s plate. Very green tarragon leaves, chervil, lobster coral, &c.,
afford a more natural and more delicate means of ornamentation. The
only butter fit to be served with cold salmon is Montpellier butter
(No. 153), though this, in fact, is but a cold sauce often resorted to
for the coating of the cold fish in question.
Among the garnishes which suit cold salmon, I might mention small
peeled, and emptied tomatoes garnished with some kind of salad;
hard-boiled eggs, either wholly stuffed, or stuffed in halves or in
quarters, _barquettes_, tartlets and _cassolettes_ made from cucumber
or beetroot, parboiled until almost completely cooked and garnished
with a purée of tunny, of sardines, of anchovies, &c.; small aspics of
shrimps or of crayfishes’ tails; small slices of lobster, &c.
Almost all the cold sauces may accompany cold salmon.
801—SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID A LA ROYALE
Having drained and dried the salmon or the darne, remove the skin
from one of its sides, and coat the bared fillets with a layer of a
preparation of _mousse_ de saumon, letting it lie rather more thickly
over the middle than the sides. Coat the layer of _mousse_ with
mayonnaise sauce thickened by means of fish jelly, and leave to set.
Now let some clear fish jelly set on the bottom of the dish to be sent
to the table; place the salmon or the darne on this jelly, and surround
the piece with a border consisting of Montpellier butter, using for the
purpose a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe.
Decorate the centre of the piece by means of a fine fleur-de-lys made
from truffles, and encircle it with two royale crowns made from anchovy
fillets.
802—SAUMON FROID OU DARNE DE SAUMON A LA PARISIENNE
Remove the skin in suchwise as to leave the bared portion in the shape
of a regular rectangle, equidistant from the tail and the head; or, in
the case of a darne, occupying two-thirds of its surface.
Cover the bared portion with mayonnaise sauce thickened with fish jelly
and leave it to set.
Now stand the piece on a small cushion of rice or semolina, shaping the
latter like the piece itself; trim the sauced rectangle with a border
of Montpellier butter, laid on by means of a piping-bag fitted with a
small grooved pipe. Garnish the centre of the rectangle with pieces
of lobster coral, the chopped, hard-boiled white and yolk of an egg,
chervil leaves, &c.
Encircle the piece with a border of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished,
in the form of a dome, with a small _macédoine_ of vegetables cohered
with cleared mayonnaise.
Send a mayonnaise sauce to the table separately.
803—SAUMON FROID OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID A LA RIGA
Prepare a salmon or a darne as in the preceding recipe, and dish it on
a cushion in order that it may be slightly raised.
Surround it with grooved sections of cucumber hollowed to represent
small timbales, well parboiled, _marinaded_ with a few drops of oil
and lemon-juice and filled with a vegetable salad thickened with
mayonnaise; indented, halved eggs filled with caviare; and tartlets of
vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise, and garnished, each with a
crayfish-shell stuffed with crayfish mousse; alternate these various
garnishes, and encircle with a border of jelly dice.
804—SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID EN BELLE-VUE
Skin the salmon or the darne, set the piece upright upon the belly
side, and decorate the fillets with pieces of truffles, poached white
of egg, chervil leaves, and tarragon, &c.
Coat the garnish with a little melted fish aspic so as to fix it.
This done, sprinkle the piece, again and again, with the same melted
aspic jelly in order to cover it with a kind of transparent veil.
Place the piece thus prepared in a crystal receptacle similarly shaped
to the fish, and fill the former to the brim with very clear, melted
jelly.
When dishing up, incrust the receptacle containing the fish in a block
of clean ice which, in its turn, is laid on the dish to be sent to the
table. Another way is to place the crystal utensil direct upon the dish
and to surround the former with broken ice.
805—SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID AU CHAMBERTIN
Poach the salmon or the darne in a _court-bouillon_ consisting of very
clear fish _fumet_ and Chambertin wine, in equal quantities, and leave
to cool. Prepare an aspic jelly from the _court-bouillon_.
Skin and decorate the salmon or the darne and glaze it with white aspic
jelly, exactly as directed above, in the case of the Belle-vue.
Dish in the same way, in a crystal receptacle, and fill the latter with
the prepared aspic jelly. Serve on a block of ice, or with broken ice
around the utensil.
806—SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID A LA NORVEGIENNE
Skin and decorate the salmon or the darne, and glaze it with white
aspic jelly precisely as in No. 804.
Let a coating of very clear jelly set on the bottom of the dish to be
sent to the table. Upon this aspic jelly lay a cushion the same shape
as the fish, of semolina, or of carved rice.
Set the piece (salmon or darne), decorated and glazed, upon this
cushion, and lay thereon a row of fine prawns, cleared of their
abdominal shell.
Surround with a garnish of small cucumber timbales, well parboiled,
_marinaded_, and garnished dome-fashion, with a purée of smoked salmon;
halved, hard-boiled eggs, glazed with aspic; very small tomatoes, or
halved medium-sized ones, peeled, pressed in the corner of a towel to
return them to their original shape, stuck with a bit of parsley-stalk,
and decorated with leaves of green butter moulded by means of the
piping-bag; and small _barquettes_ of cooked and _marinaded_ beetroot,
garnished with shrimps’ tails cohered with mayonnaise.
Send a Russe sauce separately.
807—CÔTELETTES FROIDES DE SAUMON
Liberally butter some tin cutlet-shaped moulds. Line their bottoms and
sides with a very red slice of salmon, as thin as a piece of cardboard.
This slice should be long enough to project outside the brim of the
mould to the extent of one-half inch.
Garnish the insides of the moulds with well-seasoned salmon meat, and
draw the projecting lengths of salmon across this meat so as to enclose
the latter and finish off the cutlets.
Arrange the moulds on a baking-tray; poach the cutlets, dry, in a
moderate oven; turn them out of their moulds on to another tray as
soon as they are poached, and let them cool. Then coat them with a
half-melted aspic, and decorate them according to fancy, either with
very green peas or a leaf of chervil with a bit of lobster coral in its
centre—in a word, something simple and neat.
These cutlets, which are generally served at ball-suppers, may be
dished on a tazza, on a cushion of rice, semolina, corn-flour, or
stearine, and laid almost vertically against a pyramid of vegetable
salad cohered by means of mayonnaise with aspic. In this case the dish
is finished off with a _hatelet_ stuck into the middle of the pyramid.
The cutlets may also be arranged in a circle on a flat, shallow, silver
or crystal dish, and covered with a delicate cold melted jelly.
Whatever be the selected method of dishing, always send to the table
with the cutlet a sauceboat of cold sauce.
808—MÉDAILLONS DE SAUMON
These médaillons have the same purpose as the cutlets already
described, and are prepared thus:—
Cut some small slices, one-third inch thick, from a fillet of salmon.
Arrange them on a buttered tray; poach them, dry, in a moderate oven,
and cool them under a light weight.
Now trim them neatly, with an even cutter, oval or round, in accordance
with the shape they are intended to have.
Coat them, according to their purpose, either with mayonnaise sauce or
one of its derivatives, thickened with jelly, or a white, pink, or
green chaud-froid sauce. Decorate it in any way that may be fancied,
and glaze them with cold melted aspic jelly.
Dish after the manner described under “_Côtelettes_” (see above).
809—MAYONNAISE DE SAUMON
Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with moderately seasoned, _ciseled_
lettuce. Cover with cold, cooked and flaked salmon, thoroughly cleared
of all skin and bones.
Coat with mayonnaise sauce, and decorate with anchovy fillets, capers,
stoned olives, small slices or roundels or quarters of hard-boiled
eggs, small hearts of lettuce, a border of little roundels of
radish, &c.
810—SALADE DE SAUMON
This preparation comprises the same ingredients as the above, with the
exception of the mayonnaise sauce. The decorating garnish is placed
directly upon the salmon, and the whole is seasoned in precisely the
same way as an ordinary salad.
TROUT.
From the culinary standpoint, trout are divided into two quite
distinct classes, viz., large trout, whereof the typical specimen is
Salmon-trout, and small or fresh-water trout.
811—TRUITE SAUMONÉE (Salmon Trout)
In its many preparations, salmon-trout may be replaced by salmon, and
all the recipes relating to the former may be adapted to the latter.
In any case, however, as its size is less than that of salmon, it is
very rarely cut into darnes, being more generally served whole.
The few recipes that follow are proper to salmon-trout.
812—TRUITE A LA CAMBACÉRÈS
Select a male trout in preference; clean it, and remove its gills
without opening it in the region of the belly.
Skin it on one side, starting at a distance of one inch from the head
and finishing within two and one-half inches of the root of the tail.
Lard the bared portions with truffles and the red part only of carrots
cut into rods.
This done, spread out a napkin, lay the trout thereon, belly under,
and, with a sharp knife, separate the two fillets from the bones,
beginning in the region of the head and proceeding straight down to
where the body converges towards the tail.
The spine being thus liberated, sever it at both ends; _i.e._, from
the tail and the head, and withdraw it, together with all the adhering
ventral bones. The intestines are then removed, the inside of the fish
is well cleaned, the fillets are seasoned on their insides, and the
trout is stuffed with a _mousseline_ forcemeat of raw crayfish. The
two fillets are drawn together, and the trout, thus reconstructed,
is covered with thin slices of bacon and laid on the drainer of the
fish-kettle and braised in Sauterne wine.
When the fish is done, remove the slices of bacon, glaze it, and dish
it up. Surround it with alternate heaps of morels tossed in butter and
milt à la Meunière.
Send to the table, separately, a fine Béchamel sauce, combined with the
braising-liquor of the trout, strained and reduced, and finished with
crayfish butter.
813—TRUITES SAUMONÉES FROIDES
We are now concerned with a whole series of unpublished “Trout”
preparations, which are at once of superfine delicacy and agreeable
aspect, and which admit of clean and easy dishing.
Cook a trout weighing from two to three lbs. in _court-bouillon_, and
let it cool in the latter. Then drain it; sever the head and tail from
the body, and put them aside. Completely skin the whole fish, and
carefully separate the two fillets from the bones.
Deck each fillet with tarragon and chervil leaves, lobster coral,
poached white of eggs, &c., and set them, back to back, upon a _mousse_
of tomatoes lying in a special, long white or coloured porcelain dish
about one and one-half to two inches deep.
Replace the head and tail, and cover the whole with a coating of
half-melted, succulent fish aspic, somewhat clear. Let the aspic
set, and incrust the dish containing the trout in a block of ice, or
surround it with the latter broken.
814—PREPARATION DE LA MOUSSE DE TOMATES
This _mousse_, like those which I shall give later, is really a
_bavarois_ without sugar. Its recipe is exactly the same as that of the
“_bavarois_ of fruit,” except with regard to the question of sugar.
Cook one-half lb. of tomato pulp (cleared of skin and seeds, and
roughly chopped) in one oz. of butter. When the pulp has thoroughly
mingled with the butter, add thereto two tablespoonfuls of velouté
thickened by means of eight leaves of gelatine per quart of the sauce.
Rub through tammy, and add to the preparation, when almost cold, half
of its volume of barely-whipped cream. Taste the _mousse_; season
with a few drops of lemon juice, and if it still seems flat, add the
necessary salt and a very little cayenne.
N.B.—It will be seen that I prescribe cream only half-whipped. This
precaution, however, does not apply to “Mousse de Tomates” alone, but
to all _mousses_. Well-whipped cream imparts a dry and woolly taste to
them, whereas, when it is only half-whipped, it renders them unctuous
and fresh to the palate.
From the point of view of delicacy, the respective results of the two
methods do not bear comparison.
815—OTHER PREPARATIONS OF TROUT after the same recipe
By proceeding exactly as directed in the foregoing recipe, and by
substituting one of the following _mousses_ for the “Mousse de
Tomates,” it will be found that considerable variety may be introduced
into menus:—
1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails
and tarragon leaves.
2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of
lobster, coral, and chervil.
3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails
and capers.
4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of
grilled capsicum.
5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil,
tarragon, and bunches of physalia around the fillets.
6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of
green pimentos.
7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with
chopped, hard-boiled eggs, and chopped parsley.
8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets,
capers, and olives.
9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8.
N.B.—In the making of “Mousse au Volnay” and “au Chambertin” the base
of the preparations is supplied by cleared velouté, to which is added
the reduced cooking-liquor of the trout.
All these recipes are equally suitable for sole or chicken-turbot.
815a—ONDINES AUX CREVETTES ROSES
Prepare a very delicate trout mousse, mould it in egg-moulds, and
garnish the centre with trimmed prawns’ tails. Let the _mousse_ set;
then speedily turn the ondines out of their moulds, and lay them in
a deep entrée-dish. Between each of them lay a few prawns, the tails
of which should be shelled. Cover the whole, little by little, with
some excellent, half-melted jelly; here and there add a few sprigs of
chervil, and then fill up the dish with jelly, so as to completely
cover the _mousses_.
816—FRESH-WATER TROUT
The best are those procured in mountainous districts, where the clear
water they inhabit is constantly refreshed by strong currents.
The two leading methods of preparing them are called, respectively, “Au
bleu” and “à la Meunière.” Having already described the latter, I shall
now give my attention to “Truite au bleu.”
This preparation is held in very high esteem in Switzerland and
Germany, where fresh-water trout are not only plentiful, but of
excellent quality.
817—TRUITES AU BLEU
The essential condition for this dish consists in having live trout.
Prepare a _court-bouillon_ with plenty of vinegar (No. 163), and keep
it boiling in a rather shallow basin.
About ten minutes before dishing them, take the trout out of water;
stun them by a blow on the head; empty and clean them very quickly,
and plunge them into the boiling liquid, where they will immediately
shrivel, while their skin will break in all directions.
A few minutes will suffice to cook trout the average weight of which is
one-third lb.
Drain them and dish them immediately upon a napkin, with curled-leaf
parsley all round. Serve them with a Hollandaise sauce or melted butter.
N.B.—Fresh-water trout may also be served fried or grilled, but neither
of these methods of preparation suits them so well as “à la Meunière”
or “au bleu,” which I have given.
SOLES.
Sole may be served whole or filleted, and a large number of the recipes
given for the whole fish may be adapted to its fillets.
As a rule, the fillets are made to appear on the menu of a dinner
owing to the fact that they dish more elegantly and are more easily
served than the whole fish, the latter being generally served at
luncheons.
Nevertheless, in cases where great ceremony is not observed at a
dinner, soles may well be served whole, inasmuch as no hard-and-fast
rule has ever obtained in this matter.
818—SOLE ALICE
This sole is prepared, or rather its preparation is completed, at the
table.
Have an excellent fish _fumet_ (No. 11), short and very white. Trim the
sole; put it into a special, deep earthenware dish, the bottom of which
should be buttered; pour the _fumet_ over it and poach gently.
Now send it to the table with a plate containing separate heaps of one
finely-chopped onion, a little powdered thyme, and three finely-crushed
_biscottes_.
In the dining-room the waiter places the dish on a chafer, and, taking
off the sole, he raises the fillets therefrom, and places them between
two hot plates. He then adds to the cooking-liquor of the sole the
chopped onion, which he leaves to cook for a few moments, the powdered
thyme and a sufficient quantity of the _biscotte_ raspings to allow of
thickening the whole.
At the last minute he adds six raw oysters and one oz. of butter
divided into small pieces.
As soon as the oysters are stiff, he returns the fillets of sole to the
dish, besprinkles them copiously with the sauce, and then serves them
very hot.
N.B.—In order to promote the poaching of the soles, more particularly
when they are large, the fillets on the upper side of the fish should
be slightly separated from the bones. By this means the heat is able
to reach the inside of the fish very quickly, and the operation is
accelerated.
The sole is always laid on the dish with its opened side undermost—that
is to say, on its back.
819—SOLE MORNAY
Lay the sole on a buttered dish; sprinkle a little fish _fumet_ over
it, and add one-half oz. of butter divided into small pieces. Poach
gently.
Coat the bottom of the dish on which the sole is to be served with
Mornay sauce; drain the fish, lay it on the prepared dish; cover it
with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated Gruyère and Parmesan, and
glaze at a Salamander.
820—SOLE MORNAY DES PROVENÇAUX
This sole, which used to be served at the famous restaurant of the
“Frères Provençaux,” was prepared, and always may be prepared, as
follows:—
Poach the sole in fish _fumet_ and butter, as directed in the preceding
recipe; drain it, and place it on a dish; cover it with white-wine
sauce; sprinkle liberally with grated cheese, and glaze quickly.
821—SOLE AU CHAMPAGNE
Poach the sole in a buttered dish with one-half pint of champagne. Dish
it; reduce its cooking-liquor to half; add thereto one-sixth pint of
velouté, and complete with one and one-half oz. of best butter.
Cover the sole with this sauce; glaze, and garnish each side of the
dish with a little heap of a _julienne_ of filleted sole, seasoned,
dredged, and tossed in clarified butter at the last moment in order to
have it very crisp.
N.B.—By substituting a good white wine for the champagne, a variety of
dishes may be made, among which may be mentioned: Soles au Chablis,
Soles au Sauterne, Sole au Samos, Sole au Château Yquem, &c., &c.
822—SOLE COLBERT
On the upper side of the fish separate the fillets from the spine, and
break the latter in several places. Dip the sole in milk; roll it in
flour; treat it _à l’anglaise_, and roll the separated fillets back a
little, so that they may be quite free from the bones.
Fry; drain on a piece of linen; remove the bones, and fill the
resulting space with butter à la Maître d’Hôtel.
Serve the sole on a very hot dish.
823—SOLE A LA DAUMONT
Bone the sole; _i.e._, sever the spine near the tail and the head;
remove it, and leave those portions of the fillets which lie on the
remaining extremities of it intact. Garnish the inside with whiting
forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and rearrange the fillets in
such wise as to give a natural and untouched appearance to the fish.
Poach it on a buttered dish with one-sixth pint of white wine, the same
quantity of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and one oz. of butter cut
into small lumps.
Drain and dish the sole, and cover it with Nantua sauce. Place around
it four mushrooms stewed in butter and garnished with crayfish tails
in Nantua sauce; four small, round quenelles of whiting forcemeat
with cream, decked with truffles; and four slices of milt treated _à
l’anglaise_ and fried at the last moment.
824—SOLE DORÉE
As I explained under “Fish à la Meunière” (No. 778), “Sole Dorée” is a
sole fried in clarified butter, dished dry, and garnished with slices
of carefully peeled lemon.
825—SOLE DUGLÉRÉ
All fish treated after this recipe, with the exception of soles, should
be divided up.
Put the sole in a buttered dish with one and one-half oz. of chopped
onion, one-half lb. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, a little
roughly-chopped parsley, a pinch of table salt, a very little pepper,
and one-eighth pint of white wine. Set to poach gently, and then dish
the sole.
Reduce the cooking-liquor; thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of fish
velouté; complete with one oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon
juice, and cover the fish with this sauce.
826—SOLE GRILLÉE
Season the sole; sprinkle oil thereon, and grill the fish very gently.
Send it, garnished with slices of lemon, on a very hot dish.
827—SOLE GRILLÉE, AUX HUÎTRES A L’AMÉRICAINE
This sole may be either grilled or poached, almost dry, in butter and
lemon juice. With the procedure remaining the same, it may also be
prepared in fillets. Whatever be the mode of procedure, serve it on
a very hot dish, and surround it at the last moment with six oysters
poached in a little boiling Worcestershire sauce.
Cover the sole immediately with very hot fried bread-crumbs, and add
thereto a pinch of chopped parsley.
828—SOLE A LA FERMIÈRE
Put the sole, seasoned, on a buttered dish with a few aromatics. Add
one-third pint of excellent red wine, and poach gently with lid on.
Dish up; strain the cooking-liquor, and reduce it to half; thicken it
with a lump of _manied_ butter the size of a hazel-nut, and finish the
sauce with one oz. of butter.
Encircle the sole with a border of mushrooms sliced raw and tossed in
butter. Pour the prepared sauce over the sole, and set to glaze quickly.
829—SOLE A LA HOLLANDAISE
Break the spine of the sole by folding it over in several places. Put
the fish in a deep dish; cover it with slightly salted water; set to
boil, and then poach gently for ten minutes with lid on.
Drain and dish on a napkin with very green parsley all round. Serve at
the same time some plainly boiled potatoes, freshly done, and two oz.
of melted butter.
830—SOLE SAINT-GERMAIN
Season the sole; dip it in melted butter, and cover it with fresh
bread-crumbs, taking care to pat the latter with the flat of a knife,
in order that they may combine with the butter to form a kind of crust.
Sprinkle with some more melted butter, and grill the fish gently so
that its coating of bread-crumbs may acquire a nice golden colour. Dish
the sole, and surround it with potatoes turned to the shape of olives,
and cooked in butter.
Send a Béarnaise sauce to the table separately.
831—SOLE FLORENTINE
Poach the sole in a fish _fumet_ and butter. Spread a layer of shredded
spinach, stewed in butter, on the bottom of a dish; place the sole
thereon; cover it with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with a little grated
cheese, and set to glaze quickly in the oven or at a salamander.
832—SOLE MONTREUIL
Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_, one-sixth pint of
white wine, and one-half oz. of butter.
Drain as soon as poached, and surround with potato-balls the size of
walnuts, cooked in salted water, and kept whole. Cover the sole with
white-wine sauce, and lay a thread of shrimp sauce over the garnish.
833—SOLE AU GRATIN
Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side of the
fish, and slip a lump of butter, the size of a walnut, under each.
This done, place the sole on a well-buttered gratin dish, on the bottom
of which a pinch of chopped shallots and parsley has been sprinkled,
together with one or two tablespoonfuls of Gratin sauce.
Lay four cooked mushrooms along the sole, and surround it with one oz.
of raw mushrooms, cut into rather thin slices.
Add two tablespoonfuls of white wine; cover the sole with Gratin sauce;
sprinkle with fine raspings followed by melted butter, and set the
_gratin_ to form in pursuance of the directions given under complete
Gratin (No. 269).
When taking the sole from the oven, sprinkle a few drops of lemon juice
and a pinch of chopped parsley upon it, and serve at once.
834—SOLE AU CHAMBERTIN
Season the sole and poach it on a buttered dish with one-third pint of
Chambertin wine.
As soon as it is poached, drain it, dish it, and keep it hot. Reduce
the cooking-liquor to half, add thereto a little freshly-ground
pepper and two or three drops of lemon-juice, thicken with a lump of
_manied_ butter the size of a walnut, and finish the sauce with one and
one-half oz. of butter.
Cover the sole with the sauce, set to glaze quickly, and garnish both
sides of the dish with a little heap of _julienne_ of filleted sole,
seasoned, dredged, and tossed in clarified butter at the last moment so
that it may be very crisp.
835—Remarks concerning “SOLES AUX GRANDS VINS”
Taking recipe No. 834 as a model, and putting into requisition all
the good wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux, the following varieties
are obtained, viz.:—Soles au Volnay, au Pommard, au Romanée, au
Clos-Vougeot, or soles au Saint-Estèphe, au Château-Larose, au
Saint-Émilion, &c., &c.
836—SOLE MONTGOLFIER
Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of white wine and as much of the
cooking-liquor of mushrooms. Drain, dish, and cover it with a white
wine sauce combined with the reduced cooking-liquor of the sole and one
tablespoonful of a fine _julienne_ of spiny lobster’s tail, mushrooms,
and very black truffles. Surround the sole with a border of little
_palmettes_ made from puff-paste and cooked without colouration.
837—SOLE SUR LE PLAT
Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side of the
fish, and slip a piece of butter the size of a walnut under each.
Lay the sole on a liberally buttered dish, moisten with one-fifth pint
of the cooking-liquor of fish, and add a few drops of lemon-juice.
Cook in the oven, basting often the while, until the cooking-liquor has
by reduction acquired the consistence of a syrup and covers the sole
with a translucent and glossy coat.
N.B.—By substituting for the mushroom cooking-liquor a good white or
red wine, to which a little melted pale meat-glaze has been added, the
following series of dishes may be prepared, viz.:—+Sole sur le plat au
Chambertin+. +Sole sur le plat au vin rouge+. +Sole sur le plat au
Champagne+. +Sole sur le plat au Chablis+, &c., &c.
838—SOLE RÉGENCE
Poach the sole in a little white wine and two-thirds oz. of butter cut
into small pieces.
Drain the sole, dish it, and surround it with six quenelles of whiting
forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, moulded by means of a small
spoon; four poached oysters (cleared of their beards); four small
cooked and very white mushrooms; four small truffles, turned to the
shape of olives; and four small poached slices of milt. Cover the sole
and the garnish with a Normande sauce finished with a little truffle
essence.
839—SOLE PORTUGAISE
Poach the sole in white wine and the cooking-liquor of fish. Drain,
dish, and surround with a garnish consisting of two medium-sized
tomatoes, peeled, pressed, minced, cooked in butter, and combined with
minced and cooked mushrooms, and a large pinch of chopped chives.
Coat the sole with white wine sauce, plentifully buttered, and take
care that none of the sauce touches the garnish.
Set to glaze quickly, sprinkle the garnish with a pinch of chopped
parsley when taking the sole from the oven, and serve immediately.
840—SOLE CUBAT
Poach the sole in one-fifth pint of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms and
one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces.
Coat the bottom of the dish intended for the sole with a purée of
mushrooms, place the drained sole on this purée, lay six fine slices of
truffle along the fish, coat with Mornay sauce, sprinkle with cheese,
and glaze quickly.
841—SOLE AUX HUÎTRES
Open and poach six oysters. Poach the sole in the liquor of the
oysters, drain it, dish it, and surround it with the oysters (cleared
of their beards).
Coat with a white wine sauce combined with the reduced cooking-liquor
of the sole, and glaze quickly.
842—SOLE A LA MEUNIÈRE
Proceed for this dish as directed under “Fish à la Meunière” (No. 778).
843—SOLE MEUNIÈRE AUX CONCOMBRES, otherwise DORIA
Prepare a sole à la Meunière. Garnish it at both ends with little heaps
of cucumber, turned and cooked in butter with a little salt and a pinch
of sugar.
844—SOLE MEUNIÈRE AUX AUBERGINES
Prepare a sole à la Meunière in the usual way. Surround it with a fine
border of egg-plant rundles one-third inch thick, seasoned, dredged,
and fried in clarified butter, just in time to be arranged round the
sole when it is ready. The question of time is important, for if the
fried rundles be allowed to wait at all they very quickly lose their
crispness.
845—SOLE MEUNIÈRE AUX CÈPES
Prepare the sole à la Meunière in the usual way and surround it with a
border of sliced _cèpes_ frizzled in butter just before dishing up.
846—SOLE MEUNIÈRE AUX MORILLES
Surround the sole with very fresh morels cooked in salted water and
then tossed in butter just before dishing up. Sprinkle a pinch of
chopped parsley over the morels.
847—SOLE MEUNIÈRE AUX RAISINS
The sole being ready, encircle it with fresh skinned Muscadel grapes
prepared in advance.
848—SOLE MEUNIÈRE A L’ORANGE
When the sole is cooked and dished, lay thereon a row of orange slices,
peeled to the pulp and thoroughly pipped, or some sections of oranges,
likewise peeled to the pulp and carefully pipped. This done, cover the
sole and the garnish with lightly-browned butter and serve instantly.
849—SOLE LUTÈCE
Line the bottom of the dish intended for the sole with a coating of
shredded spinach tossed in lightly-browned butter. Place the sole,
prepared à la Meunière, upon this spinach; lay a few rundles of onion
and slices of artichoke-bottom tossed in butter upon the fish; and on
either side of the sole lay a border of potato-slices, freshly cooked
in salted water and well browned in butter.
At the last moment cover the whole with lightly-browned butter.
850—SOLE MURAT
Toss in butter, separately (1) one medium-sized potato cut into dice;
(2) two small raw artichoke-bottoms, likewise cut into dice. Prepare
the sole à la Meunière, dish it, and surround it with the tossed potato
and artichoke-bottom, mixed when cooked. Lay on the sole five slices
of tomato, one-half inch thick, seasoned, dredged, and tossed in very
hot oil; sprinkle a few drops of pale melted meat-glaze, a little
lemon-juice, and a pinch of _concassed_ parsley over the sole, and
cover the whole with slightly-browned butter. Serve instantly.
851—SOLE A LA PROVENÇALE
Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_, two tablespoonfuls of
oil and a piece, the size of a pea, of garlic, well crushed. Drain and
dish the sole. Coat it with Provençale sauce combined with the reduced
cooking-liquor, and sprinkle a little _concassed_ parsley over it.
Surround the sole with four little tomatoes and four medium-sized
mushrooms stuffed with duxelles flavoured with a mite of garlic; these
latter should be put in the oven just in time for them to be ready at
the dishing up of the fish.
852—SOLE ARLÉSIENNE
Poach the sole in a little fish _fumet_. Dish it, reduce the _fumet_,
and add thereto the following garnish:—Cook a little chopped onion
in butter, add two medium-sized, peeled, emptied, and _concassed_
tomatoes, a bit of garlic, and some _concassed_ parsley. Cook with lid
on, add the reduced _fumet_ and twelve pieces of vegetable-marrow,
turned to the shape of olives and cooked in butter.
Cover the sole with this garnish and set a little heap of fried onion
at each end of the dish.
853—SOLE A LA ROYALE
Poach the sole in a few tablespoonfuls of fish _fumet_ and
two-thirds oz. of butter cut into small lumps. Dish the sole and set
upon it four small cooked mushrooms, four small quenelles of fish
forcemeat, four crayfishes’ tails, and four slices of truffle.
Surround the sole with potato-balls, raised by means of the round
spoon-cutter and cooked _à l’anglaise_, and coat the sole and garnish
with Normande sauce.
854—SOLE A LA RUSSE
Prepare twelve grooved and very thin roundels of carrots, cut a small
onion into fine slices. Put these vegetables into and cut a small onion
into fine slices. Put these vegetables into one-seventh pint of white
wine, and one-third pint of fish _fumet_. Cook and, in the process,
reduce the moistening by half, and pour this preparation into a deep
dish.
Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side of the
sole, slip a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, under each fillet,
and put the fish into a deep dish containing the preparation. Poach and
baste frequently the while.
As soon as it is poached, dish the sole, also the vegetables used in
cooking, and keep the whole hot.
Reduce the cooking-liquor to one-eighth pint, add a few drops of lemon
juice, and finish it away from the fire with one and one-half oz. of
butter. Coat the sole and the garnish with this sauce.
855—SOLE RICHELIEU
Prepare the sole exactly as directed under “Sole à la Colbert”
(No. 822). When it is fried, remove the bones and dish it. Garnish the
inside with butter à la maître-d’hôtel, and lay thereon a row of sliced
truffles.
856—SOLE NORMANDE
Poach the sole on a buttered dish with one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_,
and the same quantity of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms. Drain and
dish the sole, and surround it with mussels, poached oysters (cleared
of their beards), shrimps’ tails, and small cooked mushrooms. Put the
sole in the oven for a few minutes, tilt the dish in order to get rid
of all liquid, and coat the sole and the garnish with Normande sauce.
Make a little garland of pale meat-glaze on the sauce, and finish the
garnish with the following articles:—Six fine slices of truffle set
in a row upon the sole; six small crusts in the shape of lozenges,
fried in clarified butter and arranged round the truffles; four
gudgeons treated _à l’anglaise_ and fried at the last moment; and four
medium-sized trussed crayfish cooked in _court-bouillon_.
Set the gudgeons and the crayfish round the dish.
857—SOLE MARGUERY
Poach the sole in white wine and fish _fumet_ in the proportions
already given.
Drain and dish the sole, and surround it with a border of mussels and
shrimps’ tails. Coat the sole and the garnish with white wine sauce,
well finished with butter, and set to glaze quickly.
858—SOLE MARINIÈRE
Liberally butter a dish, sprinkle a coffeespoonful of chopped shallots
on the bottom, lay the sole thereon, and poach the latter with
one-sixth pint of white wine and the same quantity of the very clear
cooking-liquor of mussels. Drain and dish the sole, surround it with
mussels (cleared of their beards), and keep it hot.
Reduce the cooking-liquor to half; thicken with a tablespoonful of
velouté, and the yolks of two eggs, and finish it, away from the fire,
with two and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Tilt the dish so as to rid it of the liquid accumulated on the bottom,
coat the sole and the garnish with the prepared sauce, and glaze
quickly.
859—SOLE AU VIN BLANC
Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side of the
sole, and slip a piece of butter, as large as a walnut, under each
fillet. Lay the sole in a dish, the bottom of which should be buttered
and garnished with a small onion, chopped. Moisten with one-quarter
pint of ordinary white wine, as much fish _fumet_, and a few
tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms. Poach gently with
lid on.
Drain and dish the sole, and coat it with a white wine sauce, prepared
in accordance with one of the methods given in the chapter on Sauces
(No. 111). Glaze quickly, or serve without glazing.
N.B.—“Sole au Vin Blanc” may be prepared after the above recipe, but
ordinary white wine may be replaced by one of the Rhine wines or
Moselle, by some Johannisberg, or by a good white Burgundy or Bordeaux
wine, such as Chablis-Moutonne, Savigny, Montrachet, Barsac, Sauternes,
and even Château-Yquem or Château-Latour.
In any of these cases the name of the wine may be mentioned, and on the
menu may be written +Sole au Barsac+, +Sole au Château-Yquem+, &c.
860—SOLE DIEPPOISE
Poach the sole with one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_ and a few
tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mussels.
Drain and dish the sole, surround it with poached mussels (shelled
and cleared of their beards) and shrimps’ tails, and coat the fish
and the garnish with a white wine sauce combined with the reduced
cooking-liquor.
861—SOLE DIPLOMATE
Poach the sole in very clear fish _fumet_.
Drain it, dish it, and coat it with Diplomate sauce.
Set upon it a row of six fine slices of black truffle; these should
have been previously glazed with pale meat-glaze.
862—SOLE BONNE FEMME
Butter the bottom of the dish intended for the sole, and besprinkle
it with two chopped shallots, one pinch of parsley, and one and
one-half oz. of raw minced mushrooms. Lay the sole upon this garnish,
moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine and as much fish _fumet_,
and poach gently, taking care to baste from time to time.
When the sole is poached, drain off the cooking-liquor into a
vegetable-pan, and reduce it quickly to half; effect the leason with
two tablespoonfuls of fish velouté, and finish the sauce with two oz.
of butter. Coat the sole with this sauce and set it to glaze in a
fierce oven or at a salamander.
863—SOLE PARISIENNE
Poach the sole in white wine, the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and some
butter. Drain it thoroughly, dish it, and coat it with white wine sauce
combined with the reduced cooking-liquor of the sole. Garnish with a
row of six slices of truffle and six fine roundels of cooked mushrooms
kept very white, and finish with four medium-sized trussed crayfish.
864—SOLE NANTUA
Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_ and a few
tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms.
Drain and dish the sole, surround it with twelve shelled crayfishes’
tails, and coat it with Nantua sauce.
Lay a row of very black truffle slices along the middle of the fish.
FILLETS OF SOLE
Subject to the kind of dish required, fillets of sole are either kept
in their natural state, they are stuffed and folded over, or they are
simply folded over without being stuffed, each of which methods of
preparation will be specially referred to in the recipes.
Whatever be the method adopted, always skin the fillets thoroughly;
_i.e._, remove the thin membrane which lies beneath the skin, the
tendency of which, during the cooking process, is to shrink and thereby
disfigure the fillet.
This done, flatten out the fillets with the broad side of a wet knife,
and trim them slightly if necessary. The poaching of fillets of sole
must be effected without allowing the cooking-liquor to boil, the
object being to prevent the pieces losing their shape. Fillets should
also be kept very white.
In cases where the exact amount of the poaching-liquor is not given,
allow one-quarter pint to every four fillets, _i.e._, to every sole.
865—FILETS DE SOLES AMÉRICAINE
Arrange the folded fillets in a deep, buttered dish, and poach them in
fish _fumet_.
Drain, and dish them in the form of an oval, letting them overlap one
another with their tail-ends hidden. Garnish the centre of the dish
with slices of lobster prepared à l’américaine (No. 939), and coat the
whole with the lobster’s sauce.
866—FILETS DE SOLES ANGLAISE
Treat the fillets _à l’anglaise_ with fresh and fine bread-crumbs. Pat
the bread-crumbs over the egg with the flat of a knife, that the two
may be well combined; and, with the back of a knife, criss-cross the
coating of the fillets.
Cook them gently in clarified butter. Serve on a hot dish, and sprinkle
the fillets with half-melted butter à la maître-d’hôtel.
867—FILETS DE SOLES ANDALOUSE
Coat the upper sides of the fillets with fish forcemeat combined, per
pound, with three oz. of chopped capsicum. Roll them up, after the
manner of a scroll (see No. 914), and smooth the forcemeat on the top.
Poach the fillets in butter and fish _fumet_.
The following should have been prepared beforehand:—(1) As many small
half-tomatoes, stewed in butter and garnished by means of rizotto
with capsicums, as there are fillets of sole; (2) the same number of
roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil.
When dishing, arrange the roundels of egg-plant round the dish; place
a stuffed tomato on each roundel of egg-plant, and a poached fillet of
sole upon each tomato. Sprinkle with lightly-browned butter, and serve
at once.
868—FILETS DE SOLES CAPRICE
Dip the fillets in melted, seasoned butter, and then roll them in fresh
and fine bread-crumbs. Pat the bread-crumbs with the flat of the knife,
and with the back of the same instrument criss-cross the surface of the
fillets. Sprinkle with melted butter, and set to grill gently, taking
care that the coating of bread-crumbs acquires a nice, light-brown
colour.
Lay on each grilled fillet the half of a peeled banana, cooked in
butter, and send to the table, separately, a Roberts sauce Escoffier,
finished with butter.
869—FILETS DE SOLES CATALANE
Poach, in the oven, as many emptied and seasoned half-tomatoes as there
are fillets of sole. Cook some very finely-minced onion in oil, without
letting it acquire any colour, and allow one tablespoonful of the onion
to each half-tomato.
Fold the fillets of sole, and poach them in fish _fumet_ just a few
minutes before dishing them. Garnish the half-tomatoes with onion;
arrange them in a circle on a dish, and place a fillet of sole upon
each. Quickly reduce the cooking-liquor of the fillets, and finish it
with butter in the proportion of one oz. per one-eighth pint of reduced
_fumet_.
Coat the fillets and set to glaze quickly.
870—FILETS DE SOLES CLARENCE
Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish _fumet_.
They may be dished after the two following methods:—
1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with
a large, grooved pipe, and describe therewith an ornamental design
containing as many divisions as there are fillets of sole. Lightly
_gild_ and brown in the oven. This design, consisting of scroll-work,
should be prepared before poaching the fillets. Lay a fillet in each
division of the design, and coat with American sauce, prepared with
curry and combined with the meat of the lobster (cut into small dice)
which has served in the preparation of the sauce. Take care that no
sauce touches the scroll-work, which should remain well-defined.
2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp,
and put into each baked shell a tablespoonful of American sauce au
currie referred to above. Add a poached fillet of sole; coat with
American sauce; dish these garnished potatoes on a napkin, and serve
very hot.
871—FILETS DE SOLES AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Stew two oz. of small mushrooms in butter. Fold the fillets, and poach
them in one-sixth pint of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and a piece
of butter the size of a walnut. Arrange the fillets in an oval, and
garnish the centre of the dish with the stewed mushrooms.
Reduce the cooking-liquor of the fillets to one-third; add thereto two
tablespoonfuls of velouté; finish the sauce with one oz. of butter, and
coat the fillets and the garnish.
872—FILETS DE SOLES AUX CREVETTES
Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish _fumet_.
Dish them in an oval; garnish the middle with one oz. of shelled
shrimps’ tails, kept very hot, and coat the fillets and the garnish
with shrimp sauce.
873—FILETS DE SOLES CHAUCHAT
Poach the fillets of sole, folded, in butter and lemon juice.
Coat the bottom of a dish with Mornay sauce, and set the fillets of
sole thereon in the form of an oval. Surround the fish with roundels of
cooked potatoes turned to the shape of corks.
Cover the fillets and the garnish with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly
in a fierce oven or at the salamander.
874—FILETS DE SOLES BERCY
Butter the bottom of the dish intended for the soles, and sprinkle it
with two finely-chopped shallots. Lay the fillets lengthwise upon the
dish, side by side; moisten with three tablespoonfuls of white wine and
as much fish _fumet_, and add one-half oz. of butter cut into small
pieces.
Cook in the oven, basting frequently the while, and glaze at the last
minute. Besprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice, and when about to
serve drop a pinch of chopped parsley upon each fillet.
_Or_, poach the fillets with chopped shallots, and increase the
moistening. As soon as the fillets are ready, drain off their
cooking-liquor into a vegetable-pan; reduce it speedily to one-third,
and add a few drops of meat-glaze, a little lemon juice, one-half oz.
of butter, and one pinch of chopped parsley.
Coat the fillets, and set to glaze quickly.
N.B.—Sole à la Bercy may be prepared after either of the two methods.
875—FILETS DE SOLES DEJAZET
Treat the fillets of sole _à l’anglaise_ and grill them as explained
under No. 830.
Dish them, cover them thinly with half-melted tarragon butter, and deck
each fillet with five or six parboiled, tarragon leaves.
876—FILETS DE SOLES GRAND DUC
Fold the fillets of soles over, and poach them in fish _fumet_ and the
cooking-liquor of mushrooms. Arrange them in an oval on a dish, with
their tails pointing inwards; place a fine slice of truffle in the
middle of each fillet, and between each of the latter three shelled
crayfishes’ tails.
Coat with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze quickly.
When taking the dish from the oven, set in its centre a fine heap
of very green asparagus-heads, cohered with butter at the moment of
dishing.
877—FILETS DE SOLES JOINVILLE
Select some fine fillets of soles; fold them, and poach them in the
cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and butter, taking care to keep them very
white. Arrange them in an oval, with their tails pointing upwards
and the carapace of a crayfish fixed on each fillet; and garnish the
middle of the dish with a _salpicon_ or a short _julienne_, consisting
of one and one-half oz. of cooked mushrooms, one-half oz. of truffle,
and one and one-half oz. of shrimps’ tails cohered by means of a few
tablespoonfuls of Joinville sauce. Coat the fillets and the garnish
with the same sauce, and deck each fillet with a fine slice of truffle
coated with meat-glaze.
They may also be served after the old-fashioned way, as follows:—
Set the garnish in the middle of the dish, shaping it like a dome;
coat it with Joinville sauce, and surround it with the fillets of
sole, which should slightly overlap one another and have their tails
uppermost. Fix a carapace of crayfish on the tail of each fillet, and
deck each with a slice of very black truffle.
With this method of dishing, the garnish alone is coated with sauce,
the fillets thus forming a white, encircling border.
878—FILETS DE SOLES JUDIC
Fold, and poach the fillets in butter and lemon juice.
Arrange them in an oval round a dish, laying each upon a nice little
braised and trimmed half lettuce, and place upon each fillet a quenelle
of sole _mousseline_-forcemeat in the shape of a flattened oval,
poached at the time of dishing up.
Coat with Mornay sauce and glaze quickly. When taking the dish out
of the oven, encircle the fillets of sole with a thread of buttered
meat-glaze.
879—FILETS DE SOLES A LA HONGROISE
Fry in butter, without colouration, one small tablespoonful of
chopped onion seasoned with a very little paprika; moisten with three
tablespoonfuls of white wine and one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_; add
two small peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes, and set to
cook for seven or eight minutes.
Fold the fillets of sole; lay them on a buttered dish; pour the above
preparation thereon, and poach them. Arrange them in a circle on a
dish; reduce their cooking-liquor to a stiff consistence; add a few
tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice, and coat the
fillets with this sauce.
880—FILETS DE SOLES LADY EGMONT
Fold the fillets, and poach them in a few tablespoonfuls of excellent
fish _fumet_.
Also for every four fillets (_i.e._, per sole) finely mince one oz. of
well-cleaned mushrooms, and cook them quickly in butter, lemon juice, a
little salt, and pepper. This done, add the cooking-liquor to the fish
_fumet_, and keep the cooked minced mushrooms hot.
Reduce the combined cooking-liquor and fish _fumet_ to half; add
thereto one oz. of butter and two tablespoonfuls of cream; and
to the resulting sauce add the reserved minced mushrooms and two
tablespoonfuls of freshly-cooked and well-drained asparagus-heads,
uncooled.
Serve the fillets of sole on an earthenware dish, coat them with the
above garnish, and set to glaze quickly in a fierce oven or at the
salamander.
881—FILETS DE SOLES MARINETTE
Poach a sole in fish _fumet_ and the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and
drain it on a napkin. When it is still lukewarm, carefully raise its
fillets and trim them.
Break an egg into a bowl; beat it well, and add enough grated Gruyère
and Parmesan to it (mixed in equal quantities) to produce a dense
paste. Mix a dessertspoonful of cold Béchamel sauce with this paste;
add salt and cayenne pepper; spread an even thickness of one inch of it
over two of the fillets of sole; lay thereon the two remaining fillets,
and put aside in the cool.
When the egg and cheese paste is very stiff, dip the fillets in a
Villeroy sauce, and leave the latter to cool. Then treat the stuffed
and sauced fillets _à l’anglaise_, and fry them, just before serving,
in very hot fat.
Dish on a napkin with very green parsley all round.
882—FILETS DE SOLES MARIE STUART
Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish _fumet_. Arrange them in an
oval on a dish; coat them with the sauce given under “Filets de soles
à la New-burg” (No. 890), and place on each fillet a quenelle of fish
forcemeat in the shape of a quoit and decked with a slice of truffle.
These quenelles should, if possible, be poached just before dishing up,
and well drained before being laid on the fillets of sole.
883—FILETS DE SOLES MIGNONETTE
Cook the fillets in butter, and set them in a hot timbale.
Surround them with potato-balls the size of peas, raised by means of
the round spoon-cutter, and cooked beforehand in butter.
Lay upon the fillets eight or ten slices of fresh truffle heated in
one-sixth pint of very light meat-glaze.
Finish the glaze in which the slices of truffle have been heated with
two-thirds oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon juice, and pour it
over the fillets and their garnish. Serve very hot.
884—FILETS DE SOLES MIMI
Divide a live lobster into two, lengthwise, and prepare it à
l’américaine, taking care to keep the sauce short.
When the lobster is cooked, take the meat from the tail; cut it into as
many slices as there are fillets of sole, and keep them hot.
Remove all the meat from the claws, and that remaining in the carcass;
pound all of it smoothly, add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and rub
through a fine sieve. Prepare a garnish of spaghetti with cream, and
add thereto the purée of lobster.
Fold the fillets of sole, and poach them in Chablis wine and butter.
All this being done, lay the two emptied halves of the lobster on a
napkin lying on a dish, setting them back to back. Fill these lobster
shells to the brim with the prepared garnish of spaghetti. Upon this
garnish lay the poached fillets of sole, sandwiching a slice of
lobster between every two; besprinkle the whole with a short and fine
_julienne_ of very black truffle.
Send the lobster sauce, finished with a few tablespoonfuls of cream, to
the table separately. Proceed as quickly as possible with the dishing
up, in order that the dish may reach the table very hot.
885—FILETS DE SOLES MEXICAINE
Coat the fillets with fish forcemeat, and roll them to resemble
scrolls (see No. 914). Poach them in fish _fumet_ as directed for the
_paupiettes_. Lay each rolled fillet in a grilled mushroom garnished
with one-half tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomato
cooked in butter, and arrange them in an oval on a dish.
Coat them with Béchamel sauce combined with a purée of tomatoes and
capsicums cut into small dice, in the proportion of two tablespoonfuls
of the purée and two-thirds oz. of the capsicums per pint of the sauce.
886—FILETS DE SOLES MIRABEAU
Poach the fillets, left in their natural state, in fish _fumet_.
Dish them and coat with white wine and Genevoise sauces, alternating
the two, white and brown. Lay a thin strip of anchovy fillet between
each of the fillets of sole; deck those of the latter coated with white
sauce with a slice of truffle, and those coated with brown sauce with a
star of _blanched_ tarragon leaves.
887—FILETS DE SOLES MIRAMAR
Divide each of the fillets into slices; season them and cook them in
butter. Cut fifteen roundels (one-third inch thick) of egg-plant;
season, dredge, and toss them in butter, taking care to keep them very
crisp.
Take a timbale of suitable size, and line its sides with a layer
(three-quarters inch thick) of pilaff rice.
Put the roundels of egg-plant and the sliced fillets of sole (mixed and
tossed together for a moment) in the middle of the dish.
Just before serving, sprinkle with one oz. of lightly-browned butter.
888—FILETS DE SOLES AUX HUÎTRES
Open and poach twelve oysters. Poach the fillets of sole, folded, in
the oyster liquor strained through linen, and a piece of butter as
large as a walnut.
Arrange in an oval on a dish; garnish the centre with the poached
oysters (cleared of their beards), and coat the fillets of sole and the
oysters with Normande sauce combined with the reduced cooking-liquor of
the fillets.
889—FILETS DE SOLES NELSON
Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish _fumet_.
Arrange them in a circle on a dish; coat them with white-wine sauce,
and glaze quickly.
Garnish the centre of the dish with a pyramid of potato-balls cooked in
butter and of a light-brown colour. Surround the fillets with poached
milt.
890—FILETS DE SOLES NEW-BURG
Prepare a lobster à la New-burg, in accordance with one of the recipes
given (No. 948 and 949). Cut the tail into as many slices as there are
fillets of sole, and keep them hot.
Cut the remainder of the lobster meat into dice, and add these to
the sauce. Fold the fillets of sole, and poach them in fish _fumet_.
Arrange them in an oval on a dish; lay a slice of lobster upon each
fillet, and coat with the lobster-sauce combined with the dice,
prepared as directed above.
891—FILETS DE SOLES ORIENTALE
Prepare the fillets exactly as those à la New-burg, but season the
sauce with curry.
Having dished and sauced the fillets, set a pyramid of rice à
l’Indienne in the middle of the dish, or send the rice to the table
separately, in a timbale; either way will be found to answer.
892—FILETS DE SOLES PERSANE
Prepare the fillets as in the case of those à la New-burg, but season
the sauce with paprika, and add thereto one oz. of capsicums cut into
large dice. Send some pilaff rice with saffron to the table separately.
893—FILETS DE SOLES ORLY
Season the fillets; dip them into batter and, a few minutes before
serving, put them into very hot fat. Drain them; dish them on a napkin
with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.
N.B.—There are several ways of preparing these fillets of sole. Thus
they may be simply dipped in milk, dredged, and impaled on a _hatelet_.
They may also be _marinaded_, treated _à l’anglaise_, and twisted into
cork-screw shape.
Always, however, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley and, in every
case, send a tomato sauce to the table separately.
This last accompaniment is essential.
894—FILETS DE SOLES OLGA, otherwise “OTERO”
Bake beforehand, in the oven, as many fine, well-washed potatoes as
there are fillets of sole. As soon as they are done, remove a piece of
the baked shell, and withdraw the pulp in such wise as to leave nothing
but the long, parched shells. Fold the fillets, and poach them with
a little excellent fish _fumet_. Garnish the bottom of each prepared
shell with a tablespoonful of shelled shrimps’ tails, cohered with a
white-wine sauce.
Put a poached fillet of sole upon this garnish; cover with sufficient
Mornay sauce to completely fill the shell; sprinkle with grated cheese,
and glaze quickly. Dish on a napkin the moment the fillets have been
taken from the oven, and serve immediately.
895—FILETS DE SOLES POLIGNAC
Fold the fillets, and poach them in one-quarter pint of white wine, a
few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and a piece of
butter about the size of a walnut.
Dish the fillets in an oval. Reduce the cooking-liquor to half; thicken
it by means of two tablespoonfuls, bare, of fish velouté; finish the
sauce with one oz. of butter, and add thereto three small, cooked,
finely-minced mushrooms, and one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of
truffles.
Coat the fillets with sauce, and set to glaze.
896—FILETS DE SOLES PAYSANNE
For the fillets of soles, cut two small carrots, two new onions, a
stick of celery, and the white of one leek in _paysanne_ fashion.
Season these vegetables with a very little table-salt and a pinch of
sugar; stew them in butter; moisten sufficiently to cover them with
lukewarm water; and add a few pieces of broccoli, a tablespoonful of
peas, and the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenges.
Complete the cooking of the vegetables while reducing the
cooking-liquor. Season the fillets of sole, and lay them on a buttered
earthenware dish. Pour thereon the garnish of vegetables; put the cover
on the dish, and gently poach the fillets.
When they are cooked, tilt the dish so as to pour all the liquor away
into a vegetable-pan; this done, reduce the liquor to one-fifth pint,
and add to it three oz. of butter.
Pour this sauce into the dish containing the fillets and the vegetable
garnish, and serve immediately.
897—FILETS DE SOLES EN PILAW A LA LEVANTINE
Cut the fillets into collops, and toss these in butter. Prepare some
pilaff rice after the usual recipe (No. 2255), and add thereto one oz.
of capsicum cut into dice.
Also toss in butter one and one-half oz. of egg-plant, cut into dice
and seasoned, and put these with the fillets of sole. Mould the rice
into a border round the dish; put the fillets and the egg-plant in the
middle, and coat the two with curry sauce without letting the latter
touch the rice.
N.B.—In the case of pilaff rice with fillets of sole, the rice should
border the dish, and the fillets of sole, tossed in butter, should be
laid in the middle and coated with brown butter.
898—FILETS DE SOLES POMPADOUR
Treat the fillets with butter and bread-crumbs, and grill them.
Garnish them all round with a thread of very firm Béarnaise tomatée.
Dish and surround them with a border of Château potatoes (No. 2208).
Lay a fine slice of truffle, moistened with melted meat-glaze, on each
fillet.
899—FILETS DE SOLES RACHEL
Coat the fillets with some delicate fish forcemeat; put four slices of
truffle on the forcemeat of each of the fillets; fold the latter, and
poach them in one-sixth pint of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and a
piece of butter the size of a walnut, cut into small pieces.
Arrange the fillets in an oval on a dish, and coat them with white-wine
sauce combined with one tablespoonful of freshly-cooked and uncooled
asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful of truffle in dice per every
one-half pint of the sauce.
900—FILETS DE SOLES VÉNITIENNE
Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish _fumet_.
Arrange them in a circle on a dish, alternating them with thin crusts,
in the shape of hearts, fried in butter. Coat with Venetian sauce
combined with the reduced cooking-liquor of the fillets.
901—FILETS DE SOLES VERDI
Prepare a garnish of macaroni cut into dice; cohere this with cream
and grated Gruyère and Parmesan, and add three oz. of lobster meat and
one and one-half oz. of truffles in dice per every one-half lb. of the
macaroni.
Poach the fillets of sole in fish _fumet_, keeping the fillets in
their natural state. Lay the macaroni very evenly on the dish; set the
poached fillets of sole upon it; coat with Mornay sauce, and set to
glaze quickly.
902—FILETS DE SOLES VICTORIA
Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish _fumet_.
Arrange them in an oval on a dish, and garnish the centre with
three oz. of the meat from the tail of the spiny lobster, and one oz.
of truffle in dice per every four fillets.
Coat the fillets and the garnish with Victoria sauce, and set to glaze
quickly.
903—FILETS DE SOLES VÉRONIQUE
Raise the fillets of a fine sole; beat them slightly; fold and season
them, and put them in a special earthenware, buttered dish.
With the bones, some of the trimmings of the fish, a little minced
onion, some parsley stalks, a few drops of lemon juice, and white wine
and water, prepare two spoonfuls of _fumet_.
This done, strain it over the fillets, and poach them gently.
Drain them carefully; reduce the _fumet_ to the consistence of a syrup,
and finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter. Arrange the fillets
in an oval on the dish whereon they have been poached; cover them with
the buttered _fumet_, and set to glaze quickly. When about to serve,
set a pyramid of skinned and very cold muscadel grapes in the middle of
the dish.
Put a cover on the dish, and serve immediately.
904—FILETS DE SOLES WALEWSKA
Poach the fillets in fish _fumet_, keeping them in their natural state.
Dish, and surround them with three _langoustines’_ tails cut into two
lengthwise, and stewed in butter (with lid on) with six fine slices of
raw truffle.
Coat with a delicate Mornay sauce, and set to glaze quickly.
N.B.—The Mornay sauce may, according to circumstances, be combined with
one and one-half oz. of _langoustine_ butter per pint.
905—FILETS DE SOLES WILHELMINE
Prepare some potato shells as directed under “Filets de soles Olga”
(No. 894). Garnish them with a tablespoonful of cucumber with cream;
put a fillet of sole into each garnished shell, a fine Zeeland oyster
on each fillet, and cover with Mornay sauce.
Set to glaze quickly, and dish on a napkin.
=Various Preparations of Soles and Fillets of Sole.=
906—MOUSSELINES DE SOLES
The directions given under “_Mousselines de_ Saumon” (No. 797) apply in
all circumstances to _Mousselines_ of Sole. I shall therefore refrain
from repeating the recipe, since, the quantities remaining the same,
all that is needed is the substitution of the meat of sole for that of
salmon. Thus, I shall only state here, by way of reminding the reader,
that these excellent preparations admit of all the fish sauces and
garnishes, and that they may also be accompanied by all purées of fresh
vegetables.
907—TURBAN DE FILETS DE SOLES A LA VILLARET
Raise the fillets of three soles; flatten them slightly with a
moistened beater, and trim them very straight on either side.
Liberally butter a medium-sized savarin-mould. Lay the fillets aslant
in this mould, with their tail-ends over-reaching its inner edge and
their other ends projecting over its outer edge; slip a fine slice of
truffle between each, and let them slightly overlap one another.
When the mould is completely lined with the fillets of sole, fill it up
with lobster _mousseline_ forcemeat. Gently tap the mould on a folded
napkin lying on the table, with the object of settling the forcemeat,
and then draw the overhanging ends of the fillets across the latter.
Set to poach in a _bain-marie_ in a moderate oven.
This done, take the mould out of the _bain-marie_; let it stand for a
few minutes, and then turn it upside-down upon the dish. Leave it to
drain; soak up the liquid that has leaked out on to the dish; take off
the mould, and moisten the surface of the fillets by means of a small
brush dipped in melted butter. The object of this last measure is to
glaze the fish and to remove therefrom the froth resulting from its
poached albumen.
Now garnish the centre of the moulding with shrimps’ tails, mushrooms,
poached milt, and slices of truffle, the whole cohered by means of
Béchamel sauce finished with lobster butter.
Send a sauceboat of Béchamel sauce, finished with lobster butter, to
the table at the same time as the fish.
908—TURBAN DE FILETS DE SOLES ET SAUMON VILLARET
Proceed as in the preceding recipe, but alternate the fillets of sole
with very red slices of salmon of the same size as the fillets.
The combination yields an excellent result, and the varying strips of
white and orange which constitute the body of the moulded crown lend
sightliness to the dish.
N.B.—The designation “à la Villaret,” relating to the crown alone,
in no wise affects the constituents of the garnish; these may either
remain the same as those of the preceding recipe, or may be replaced by
something similar. The sauce alone remains unalterable, and this should
be a good Béchamel finished with lobster butter.
909—TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES CARDINAL
For ten people, prepare a timbale crust (No. 2394) the diameter of
which should be greater than the height; line it with fine, short
paste, and decorate it with noodle paste.
Raise the fillets of three medium-sized soles, flatten them slightly;
coat them with whiting forcemeat prepared with crayfish butter, and
roll them into scroll-form. Also prepare ten small slices of the meat
of a medium-sized ordinary or spiny lobster’s tail, ten small grooved
and cooked mushrooms, fifteen slices of truffle, and three-quarters
pint of Cardinal sauce finished with a lobster butter.
When about to serve, lay the poached, rolled fillets of sole (well
drained) in a circle round the bottom of the timbale; put the slices
of lobster and the mushrooms in the centre, and cover the whole with
Cardinal sauce.
Set upon the sauce, just over the centre of the timbale, a large,
grooved mushroom (cooked and kept very white), and encircle the latter
with fifteen slices of truffle.
Place the timbale, thus garnished, on a folded napkin lying on a dish,
and serve at once.
910—TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES CARMÉLITE
Prepare (1) a timbale crust as above; (2) a lobster à la New-burg made
from raw lobster (No. 948); (3) twelve rolled fillets of sole stuffed
with fish forcemeat finished with lobster butter; (4) three oz. of
sliced truffles.
Poach the rolled fillets in fish _fumet_; slice the meat of the
lobster’s tail, and put the poached fillets, the slices of lobster and
the slices of truffle into the lobster sauce. Heat the whole well,
without boiling; pour the sauce and garnish into the timbale crust, and
deck the top with twelve fine slices of truffle.
Dish the timbale on a folded napkin, and serve instantly.
911—TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES GRIMALDI
Prepare:—(1) A rather deep timbale crust, and decorate it with noodle
paste. (2) Cook, as for bisque, twenty-four small _langoustines_;
wrench off their tails; cut them into two lengthwise, and keep them
hot in butter. (3) Finely pound the _langoustines’_ carapaces, and
add thereto one-third pint of fine Béchamel. Rub through a fine
sieve first, and then through tammy. Put the resulting cullis into a
saucepan, and heat without boiling it; intensify the seasoning; add
a few tablespoonfuls of cream, little by little; put the prepared
tails in the cullis, and keep the latter in the _bain-marie_. (4) Cut
four oz. of _blanched_ and somewhat stiff macaroni into pieces, and
add thereto one-sixth pint of cream and three oz. of sliced truffle.
Heat until the macaroni has completely absorbed the cream; thicken with
one-sixth pint of Béchamel sauce finished with fish _fumet_; add one
and one-half oz. of butter cut into small lumps, and keep hot. (5) Coat
sixteen fillets of sole with truffled fish forcemeat; roll the fillets
into scroll-form, and, at the last minute, poach them in fish _fumet_.
To garnish the timbale, spread a layer of macaroni on the bottom
thereof, lay half of the rolled fillets upon the macaroni, and cover
these with half of the _langoustines’_ tails in the cullis.
Repeat the procedure, in the same order, with what is left of the
garnishes, and finish the timbale with a layer of the _langoustines’_
tails.
Set the timbale on a folded napkin lying on a dish, and serve
immediately.
912—TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES CARÊME
Flatten the fillets of three medium-sized soles, and trim them neatly.
Liberally butter a pound-cake mould, and line it with the fillets,
placing them side by side with their tails lying round the centre of
the bottom of the mould, and their opposite ends projecting above the
brim. Press them well, that they may take the shape of the mould.
Completely coat the fillets with a layer, one-half inch thick, of fish
forcemeat.
Put the mould in the front of the oven for a few minutes in order to
poach the forcemeat, which, in adhering to the fillets, gives the
required firmness to the timbale.
When the forcemeat has been poached and is stiff, withdraw the timbale
from the oven, and cut off the pieces of fillet that project above the
edges of the mould. Fill the timbale to within one-third inch of its
brim with a garnish of shrimps and poached oysters and mussels, small
button-mushrooms, and slices of truffle, all of which should be cohered
with a thick and highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce. Cover this garnish
with the projecting pieces of fillets, already cut off, and close the
timbale by means of a thin layer of that forcemeat which served in
coating the fillets. Poach for thirty minutes in a _bain-marie_ and
in a moderate oven. After taking the timbale out of the _bain-marie_,
let it stand for a few minutes; overturn it on a round dish; take off
the mould; deck it on top with a garland consisting of six little
_paupiettes_ of salmon, each stuffed with a crayfish tail, and
surmounted by an encrusted crayfish carapace.
Serve a Nantua sauce separately.
913—TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES MARQUISE
For a timbale large enough for ten people, prepare:—
1. An even or fluted timbale crust.
2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole
poached in fish _fumet_, twelve poached oysters (cleared of their
beards), twenty-four small quenelles of salmon, and twenty slices of
truffle.
Heat this garnish after having added a few drops of fish _fumet_ to it,
and then thicken it with one-half pint of white-wine sauce prepared
with paprika.
Put the above garnish into the timbale, which should be very hot; set
the latter on a folded napkin, and serve at once.
914—The Preparation of PAUPIETTES OF FILLETS OF SOLE SALMON, &c.
The _paupiettes_ (or fillets rolled after the manner of a scroll) are
served either as entrées like fillets of sole, of which they are but
a special kind, or as a garnish. For the second purpose, not only
should they be smaller than for the first, but very small fillets are
generally selected for the preparation of the _paupiettes_.
In order to make _paupiettes_, first remove the nervous film from the
outside surfaces of the fillets, and then slightly flatten the latter
with the blade of a large knife; trim them on both sides, and coat them
on their flayed side with a thin layer of fish forcemeat, truffled or
not, in accordance with the requirements.
Now roll them into scroll-form; smooth the forcemeat that projects from
the top end, and the _paupiettes_ are done.
Stand them upright in a buttered sautépan to poach, and take care
to place them snugly together lest they lose their shape while the
operation is in progress. Moisten them with sufficient fish _fumet_
(No. 11) to cover them; poach them in a moderate oven, and remember, as
in the case of fillets of sole, not to let the poaching-liquor boil.
All the garnishes and sauces suited to fillets of sole likewise obtain
with _paupiettes_, provided the difference in their shape be taken into
account when dishing up.
For salmon _paupiettes_, cut slices two-thirds inch wide, one-half inch
thick, and the length of a fillet of sole, from a skinned fillet of
salmon. In view of the unusual fragility of salmon’s flesh, the slices
of fillets should be carefully flattened in order to give them the
width and thickness of a fillet of sole. This done, spread forcemeat on
them, and roll them as explained above.
=Soles and Fillets of Sole (Cold)=
915—ASPIC DE FILETS DE SOLES
An essential point in the making of an aspic is the clearness of the
fish jelly. For a sole aspic, take some white fish aspic, which is at
once succulent, limpid, and just sufficiently viscous to allow of its
being turned out of a mould without breaking.
For the purpose under consideration, moulds with plain or decorated
borders are generally used, and there are two modes of procedure:—
1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets
of sole and poach them in butter and lemon juice, taking care to keep
them very white. This done, set them to cool under a light weight.
Pour a few tablespoonfuls of melted fish jelly into the mould, which
should be lying amidst broken ice. As soon as the jelly begins to set,
decorate it tastefully with pieces (lozenges, crescents, &c.) of very
black truffle and the poached white of an egg. Capers, tarragon leaves,
thin roundels of small radishes, &c., may also be used for the purpose
of decoration.
When this part of the procedure has been satisfactorily effected,
sprinkle a few drops of the same jelly over the decorating particles,
in order to fix them and prevent their shifting during the subsequent
stages of the process. Now add enough melted jelly to cover the bottom
of the mould with a layer one inch thick, and leave this to set.
On this set jelly, arrange the six fillets of sole; let their tail-ends
overlap, and cover them with jelly. Continue adding coat upon coat of
jelly until the thickness covering the fillets measures about one-half
inch.
Now arrange the remaining fillets in the reverse order, and fill up the
mould with cold, melted jelly. Leave to cool for one hour.
When about to serve, quickly dip the mould in a saucepan of hot water;
wipe it, and turn out the aspic upon a folded napkin lying on a dish.
916—Another Method of Preparing ASPICS DE FILETS DE SOLES
Coat ten fine fillets of sole with a thin layer of truffled fish
forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and roll them round a little
rod of truffle, twice as thick as an ordinary penholder. Tie these
_paupiettes_, once or twice round, with cotton; poach them very gently
in fish _fumet_ and cool them on ice. Take a border-mould, even if
possible; pour therein a few tablespoonfuls of melted fish jelly, and
then rock it about on broken ice, with the object of evenly coating it
with a thin layer of the jelly.
This operation is technically called “clothing the mould.”
Decorate the bottom of the mould as explained above; fix the decorating
particles, and cover them with a layer one-half inch thick of fish
jelly.
After having properly trimmed the ends of the _paupiettes_, cut them
into roundels one-half inch thick; set these upright against the sides
of the mould, keeping them close together; add a few drops of melted
jelly to fix the roundels, and as soon as this has set, add a further
quantity, sufficient to completely cover them.
As soon as this jelly sets, repeat the operation with the _paupiette_
roundels and the jelly, and do so again and again until the mould is
filled. For turning out the aspic, proceed as directed above.
917—BORDURE DE FILETS DE SOLES A L’ITALIENNE
Line a border-mould with jelly; _i.e._, coat its bottom and sides with
a thin layer of fish jelly, rocking it upon ice as already explained.
Now fill it, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of a _julienne_
of cold, poached fillets of sole, a _julienne_ of truffles (two oz.
per two filleted soles), and a _julienne_ of capsicum (one and
one-half oz. per two filleted soles). Fill up the mould with melted
fish jelly, and leave the latter to set.
When about to serve, turn out the mould upon a little, low cushion of
rice, lying on a dish, and set an Italian salad in the centre.
Serve a Mayonnaise sauce with this dish.
918—FILETS DE SOLES CALYPSO
Flatten the fillets, and roll them into _paupiettes_ around little
rods of wood two-thirds inch thick. Lay the _paupiettes_ in a buttered
sautépan, with their joined sides undermost, and poach them in very
clear fish _fumet_ and lemon juice, taking care to keep them very white.
Let them cool, and remove the pieces of wood, whereupon they will have
the appearance of rings.
Take as many small tomatoes as there are _paupiettes_; cut them in two
at a point two-thirds of their height below their stem-end; empty, and
peel them. Set a _paupiette_, upright, in each tomato; fill the centre
with crayfish _mousse_ combined with crayfishes’ tails in dice; lay a
round piece of milt (stamped out with a cutter, poached, and cold) on
each, and, finally, the shelled tail of a crayfish on each roundel of
milt.
Arrange the tomatoes in a circle round a dish; surround them with
little triangles of white fish jelly, and garnish the centre of the
dish with the same fish jelly, chopped.
919—FILETS DE SOLES CHARLOTTE
Fold the fillets; poach them in fish _fumet_, and let them cool.
Trim them; coat them with pink chaud-froid sauce; decorate each fillet
by means of a rosette of chervil leaves, in the centre of which rests a
bit of lobster coral, and glaze them with fish jelly.
Set them, tail end uppermost, against a _mousse_ of milt with
horse-radish, moulded in a narrow dome-mould, which should have been
coated with fish jelly and besprinkled with chopped coral.
Surround with a border of regularly-cut jelly dice.
920—FILETS DE SOLES A LA MOSCOVITE
Prepare (1) some _paupiettes_ of filleted sole, in rings, as explained
under “Filets de Soles à la Calypso” (No. 918); (2) as many round,
fluted cases made from hollowed cucumber as there are _paupiettes_. The
cucumber cases should be well _blanched_ and _marinaded_ inside. Set
each paupiette in a cucumber case; garnish their centre with caviare,
and arrange them in a circle on a dish.
Send a sauce Russe to the table, separately, at the same time as the
dish.
921—DOMINOS DE FILETS DE SOLES
Select some fine, fleshy fillets; slightly flatten them; poach them
in a little of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, some lemon juice and
butter, and set them to cool under a light weight. When the fillets
are cold, trim them and cut them into regular rectangles the size of
dominoes.
Coat the rectangles with a maigre, white, chaud-froid sauce; decorate
them in imitation of dominoes, with little spots of truffle; glaze them
with cold, melted fish jelly, and put them aside.
Pound the trimmings of the fish together with their weight of caviare,
and rub the whole through a fine sieve. Add to this preparation half
its weight of highly-coloured jelly, and leave it to set in a somewhat
deep and moderately-oiled tray, the thickness of the preparation on the
tray being not greater than that of a fillet of sole.
When the jelly is set, cut it into rectangles exactly the same size
as the prepared dominoes, and then, by means of a little melted, cold
jelly, fix the dominoes of sole to the rectangles just prepared.
Put some chopped jelly in the centre of the dish, and on this lay the
dominoes in a muddled heap.
922—FILETS DE SOLES FROIDS DRESSÉS SUR MOUSSES
What I pointed out above, I repeat here for the reader’s
guidance—namely, that fillets of sole may be prepared after all the
recipes given for trout (No. 813).
As the fillets of sole in this dish remain very conspicuous, it is
advisable to keep them very white in the poaching. Set them to cool
under a light weight, and decorate them in a way that will be in
keeping with the _mousse_ on which they are dished. This _mousse_ is
set on a special dish, as already explained, and the decorated fillets
are laid upon it and covered with melted jelly.
For the variation of _mousses_, see the table given under No. 815.
923—TURBOT
Turbot is generally served boiled, accompanied by freshly cooked,
floury potatoes, and the cases are exceptional when, cooked in this
way, it is dished with any other garnish.
All fish sauces may be served with turbot. When, for the sake of
variety, or in pursuance of the consumer’s wishes, turbot has to be
braised or garnished, it is best to select a medium-sized fish, _i.e._,
one weighing from eight to twelve lbs., thick, very fleshy, and white.
Unless expressly ordered, it is best to avoid surrounding the
piece with its garnish. Preferably, send the latter to the table in
a separate dish, as also the sauce. By this means the service is
expedited, and, more important still, the fish is quite hot when it
reaches the table. It is granted that the sight of a dish containing a
fine, richly garnished and tastefully arranged piece is flattering to
the host, but it would be a pity that the quality of the fish should
thereby suffer, more particularly as the gourmet is not satisfied with
sightliness alone.
I explained at the beginning of this chapter, under “Boiled Fish”
(No. 776 and 779), the details relating to this method of cooking,
especially with regard to its application to turbot. For the braising
and garnishing of turbot, the reader is begged to refer to the recipes
concerned with chicken-turbot. These recipes may be applied to turbot,
provided the difference in the size of the fish be taken into account
in reference to the time allowed for braising and the quantities of the
garnishing ingredients.
924—COLD TURBOT
Whether whole or sliced, cold turbot makes an excellent dish, if the
fish have not been cooked too long beforehand. It will be found that
turbot, especially when sliced, tends to harden, crumple, and lose
its flavour while cooling. It is therefore of the greatest importance
that the fish should have just cooled after cooking, and that the
cooking-liquor should have barely time to set; otherwise the evil
effects of cooling, mentioned above, will surely ensue. When served,
just cooled, with one of the cold sauces suited to fish, turbot can vie
in delicacy even with such fish as salmon or trout, which are usually
served cold.
925—TURBOTINS (CHICKEN-TURBOTS)
Turbotins (chicken-turbots) may rank among the most delicate and nicest
of fish. Their varying sizes allow of their being served either for
three, four, or ten, or twelve people; they are, moreover, tender and
white, and they lend themselves to quite a vast number of culinary
preparations.
They may be served boiled, like the turbot; grilled; à la Meunière;
fried; _au gratin_, like the soles; or braised, like the salmon and the
trout. They are most often served whole, garnished and with sauce; but,
in order to simplify the process, they may be filleted, the fillets
being poached and dished with a garnish and the selected sauce.
Whatever be the method of preparing the chicken-turbot, whether it be
boiled, poached, or braised, the spine should always be cut in one or
two places. The gash should be just in the middle of the back where
the flesh is thickest, and the fillets on either side of the gash
should be partly separated from the bone. The object of this measure
is to prevent deformation during the cooking process and, also, to
precipitate the latter.
926—TURBOTIN A L’AMIRAL
Gash the back of the fish, and partly separate the under fillets from
the bones. Lay it on a grill, and moisten, sufficiently to cover it,
with previously-cooked _court-bouillon_ with Sauterne wine. As soon
as the _court-bouillon_ boils, allow the fish to cook ten or twelve
minutes for every two lbs. of its weight.
This done, drain it; dish it, and coat it twice with melted, red butter.
Now surround it with the following garnish, which should be in
proportion to the size of the fish, viz., little heaps of large mussels
and oysters, prepared à la Villeroy, and fried at the time of dishing;
small patties of crayfish tails; large mushroom-heads grooved and
cooked, and slices of truffle.
Serve, separately, (1) a timbale of potatoes _à l’anglaise_;
(2) Normande sauce, combined with one-sixth pint of reduced
_court-bouillon_ per quart of sauce, finished with crayfish butter and
seasoned with cayenne.
927—TURBOTIN A L’ANDALOUSE
Cut it in the region of the back; season it, and lay it in a deep
earthenware dish of convenient size, liberally buttered. In the case of
a chicken-turbot weighing two and one-half lbs., moisten with one-third
pint of white wine and one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_.
Finely mince two medium-sized onions, and toss them in butter until
they have acquired a yellow colour.
Peel, press and mince three tomatoes, and add thereto three large, raw,
sliced mushrooms. Cut two mild capsicums into strips.
Spread the onion on the chicken-turbot; put the tomatoes and the sliced
mushrooms on top, and upon these arrange the grilled strips of mild
capsicum. Besprinkle moderately with raspings; lay one oz. of butter,
cut into small pieces, on the top, and set to cook gently in the oven.
Allow thirty minutes for the cooking. By reducing the moistening-liquor,
which has perforce absorbed some of the gelatinous properties of the
fish, the leason forms of itself.
928—TURBOTIN BONNE FEMME
For a chicken-turbot weighing from two to two and one-half lbs.
sprinkle on the bottom of a buttered tray one dessertspoonful of
chopped shallots, one pinch of _concassed_ parsley, and three oz. of
minced mushrooms.
Cut the chicken-turbot in the back, and partly separate the fillets
from the bone; lay it on the tray, and moisten with one-third pint of
white wine and one-third pint of fish _fumet_. Cook gently in the oven,
and baste frequently the while.
When the chicken-turbot is cooked, dish it and keep it hot. Pour the
cooking-liquor into a sautépan; reduce it to half, and add three
tablespoonfuls of fish velouté and three oz. of butter.
Cover the fish with this sauce and the garnish, and glaze quickly.
929—TURBOTIN COMMODORE
Poach the chicken-turbot in salted water.
Prepare the following garnish per one person:—Three potato balls cut
to the size of hazel-nuts and cooked _à l’anglaise_; one medium-sized,
trussed crayfish; one quenelle of fish; one small lobster _croquette_;
and one oyster prepared à la Villeroy.
All these products should be treated according to their nature, and
just in time to be ready for the dishing up. A few moments before
serving, drain the turbot; dish it, and surround it with the garnish
detailed above, arranged in alternate heaps.
Serve a Normande sauce, finished with anchovy butter, separately.
930—TURBOTIN DAUMONT
Proceed exactly as directed under “Sole Daumont” (No. 823), taking
into account the size of the fish, and increasing the sauce and the
garnishing ingredients accordingly.
931—TURBOTIN FERMIÈRE
Sprinkle on the bottom of a buttered tray two minced shallots, a few
roundels of carrot and onion, some parsley stalks, thyme, and bay.
Lay the chicken-turbot on these aromatics, and season moderately. For
a fish weighing two lbs. moisten with two-thirds pint of excellent red
wine; add one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces, and poach
gently, taking care to baste frequently.
Meantime toss three oz. of minced mushrooms in three oz. of butter.
When the turbot is ready, drain it; dish it; surround it with the
tossed mushrooms, and keep it hot.
Strain the cooking-liquor into a vegetable-pan, and reduce it to half.
Thicken it with a piece of _manied_ butter the size of a walnut; add
three oz. of butter; pour this sauce over the chicken-turbot and its
garnish, and set to glaze quickly.
932—TURBOTIN A LA MODE DE HOLLANDE
Poach the chicken-turbot in salted water. Drain it, dish it, and upon
it lay a lobster cooked in _court-bouillon_. The shell of the lobster
should have been opened along the top of the tail, and the meat of the
tail should have been quickly sliced and returned to its place.
Send to the table at the same time (1) a timbale of floury potatoes,
freshly cooked _à l’anglaise_; (2) a sauceboat containing egg sauce
with melted butter (No. 117).
933—TURBOTIN MIRABEAU
Poach the fish in _court-bouillon_ with Sauterne wine, as directed
under “Turbotin à l’Amiral” (No. 926).
Drain it; dish it, and coat it in alternate bands with white wine and
Genevoise sauces. Along the lines formed by the meeting of the sauces
lay thin strips of anchovy fillets placed end to end. Decorate the
bands of white sauce with slices of truffle, and the bands of brown
sauce with blanched tarragon leaves.
934—TURBOTIN PARISIENNE
Poach the fish in _court-bouillon_ with Sauterne wine. Drain it,
dish it, and round it arrange a border composed of alternate slices
of truffles and mushrooms. Coat the fish with white-wine sauce, and
surround it with trussed crayfish cooked in _court-bouillon_.
N.B.—For fish à la Parisienne, the garnish of sliced truffles and
mushrooms may be set on the dish, either conspicuously or the reverse;
_i.e._, it may be laid round the fish and covered by the sauce, or
arranged in the form of an oval on the fish after the latter has been
sauced. In either case the slices of truffles and mushrooms should be
laid alternately.
935—TURBOTIN RÉGENCE
Poach the chicken-turbot in a sufficient quantity of previously-prepared
_court-bouillon_ with Chablis wine.
For a fish weighing three lbs. (enough for ten people), prepare the
following garnish:—Twenty small spoon-moulded quenelles of whiting
forcemeat with crayfish butter; ten poached oysters (cleared of their
beards); ten small mushroom-heads (very white); ten truffles in the
shape of olives, and ten poached slices of milt.
Drain the chicken-turbot just before dishing it, and slip it on
to a dish. Surround it with the garnish detailed above, arranged
in alternate heaps, and serve a Normande sauce, finished with two
tablespoonfuls of truffle essence per pint, separately.
936—TURBOTIN SOUFFLÉ A LA REYNIÈRE
Lay the chicken-turbot on its belly, and make two gashes in its back,
on either side of the spine, from the head to the tail. Completely
separate the fillets from the bones; cut the spine at both ends;
carefully raise it from the underlying, ventral fillets, and entirely
remove it.
Season the inside of the fish, and garnish it with enough fish
_mousseline_ forcemeat to give it a rounded appearance. Close in the
forcemeat by drawing the two separated fillets over it; turn the piece
over, and lay it on a well-buttered, deep, oval dish, the size of which
should be in proportion to that of the chicken-turbot.
Poach it gently, almost dry, with lid on, in fish _fumet_ and the
cooking-liquor of mushrooms mixed, _i.e._, two-thirds pint of the one
and one-third pint of the other. This done, dish it carefully, and lay
a row of grooved and white mushroom-heads down the centre of it. On
either side put some very white, poached milt, alternating the latter
with whole anchovy fillets, in such wise as to form an oval enframing
the row of mushrooms.
Send to the table, separately, a sauce composed of Soubise cullis
and white-wine sauce, in the proportion of one-third and two-thirds
respectively, combined with the reduced cooking-liquor of the
chicken-turbot.
937—TURBOTIN FEUILLANTINE
Stuff the chicken-turbot after the method described in the preceding
recipe, but substitute lobster _mousseline_ forcemeat for that
mentioned above.
Poach as directed above, and dish.
Coat the fish with lobster butter, made as red as possible, from the
carcass of the lobster whose meat has been used for the forcemeat.
From head to tail and down the centre of the fish lay a row of fine
slices of truffle, letting them overlap each other slightly. Frame the
row of truffle with two lines of very white, poached oysters, so placed
as to form a regular oval.
Send to the table, separately, a fine Béchamel sauce seasoned with
cayenne.
938—COLD CHICKEN-TURBOT
My remarks relative to cold turbot apply here with even greater force,
for chicken-turbots are particularly well suited to cold dishing.
The chicken-turbots to be served cold should not be too small; the best
for the purpose would be those weighing four lbs. or more.
In dismissing the subject I can but recommend cold chicken-turbot as a
dish admitting of the most tasteful arrangement and decoration.
LOBSTER (HOMARD)
Whereas the ordinary lobster is a very favourite dish with English
gourmets, the spiny kind has scarcely any vogue. This is no doubt
accounted for by the fact that the former is not only very plentiful,
but also of excellent quality, while the latter is comparatively scarce.
939—HOMARD A L’AMÉRICAINE
The first essential condition is that the lobster should be alive.
Sever and slightly crush the claws, with the view of withdrawing their
meat after cooking; cut the tail into sections; split the carapace
in two lengthwise, and remove the queen (a little bag near the head
containing some gravel). Put aside, on a plate, the intestines and the
coral, which will be used in the finishing of the sauce, and season the
pieces of lobster with salt and pepper.
Put these pieces into a sautépan containing one-sixth pint of oil and
one oz. of butter, both very hot. Fry them over an open fire until the
meat has stiffened well and the carapace is of a fine red colour.
Then remove all grease by tilting the sautépan on its side with its
lid on; sprinkle the pieces of lobster with two chopped shallots
and one crushed clove of garlic; add one-third pint of white wine,
one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_, a small glassful of burnt brandy,
one tablespoonful of melted meat-glaze, three small, fresh, pressed,
and chopped tomatoes (or, failing fresh tomatoes, two tablespoonfuls
of tomato purée), a pinch of _concassed_ parsley, and a very little
cayenne. Cover the sautépan, and set to cook in the oven for eighteen
or twenty minutes.
This done, transfer the pieces of lobster to a dish; withdraw the meat
from the section of the tail and the claws, and put them in a timbale;
set upright thereon the two halves of the carapace, and let them lie
against each other. Keep the whole hot.
Now reduce the cooking-sauce of the lobster to one-third pint; add
thereto the intestines and the chopped coral, together with a piece of
butter the size of a walnut; set to cook for a moment, and pass through
a strainer.
Put this cullis into a vegetable-pan; heat it without letting it boil,
and add, away from the fire, three oz. of butter cut into small pieces.
Pour this sauce over the pieces of lobster which have been kept hot,
and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of _concassed_ and scalded parsley.
940—HOMARD A LA BORDELAISE
Section the live lobster as directed above.
Stiffen the meat and colour the carapace in a sautépan with two oz.
of clarified butter. When the meat is quite stiff and the carapace is
red, pour away two-thirds of the butter. Then add two tablespoonfuls
of chopped shallots, a crushed piece of garlic the size of a pea,
one-sixth pint of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy, and
reduce the whole to half. Complete with one-half pint of fish _fumet_,
one-third pint of maigre Espagnole, one-quarter pint of tomato sauce,
one small faggot, one pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne.
Put the lid on, and set to cook for one-quarter hour.
Take the meat from the sections of the tail and the claws, as in
the case of the preparation à l’américaine; put these into a small
sautépan, and keep them hot. Add the intestines and the chopped coral,
reduce the sauce to one-third pint; pass it through a strainer, and
pour it over the pieces of lobster.
Heat the whole without boiling; add a few drops of lemon juice,
two and one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces, and one-half
tablespoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon, and stir over the stove
with the view of thoroughly mixing the whole.
Dish as directed in the preceding recipe.
941—HOMARD BOUILLI A LA HOLLANDAISE
Cook the lobster in a _court-bouillon_ (No. 163), allowing twenty
minutes for a specimen weighing two lbs.
As soon as the lobster is cooked, drain it; split it in two lengthwise
without completely severing the two halves; lay it on a long dish
covered with a napkin, and surround it with very green, curled-leaf
parsley.
Serve with it, at the same time, a timbale of floury potatoes freshly
cooked _à l’anglaise_, and a sauceboat of melted butter.
942—HOMARD A LA BROCHE
Select a lobster that seems full of life, and, after killing it, fix
it on the spit. Put into the dripping-pan six oz. of butter, one-half
bottle of champagne, salt, and peppercorns. In order to cook it to
perfection, frequently baste it with this mixture, and allow one hour
before a red fire for a specimen weighing three lbs. It may be dished
with two accompaniments:—
1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from
which all grease has been removed.
2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease)
through a fine sieve; reduce it by a quarter over a brisk fire;
add three tablespoonfuls of meat-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of
Worcestershire sauce, and a little chopped parsley, and finish this
sauce with three oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon juice.
943—HOMARD CARDINAL
Plunge the live lobster into boiling _court-bouillon_, and cook it
after the manner directed under “Homard à la Hollandaise” (No. 941).
The moment it is cooked, cut it in two lengthwise; withdraw the meat
from the tail, slice it, and keep it hot in a little Cardinal sauce.
Disconnect the claws; open them sideways, and withdraw all their meat
without breaking them. Cut the withdrawn meat into dice, as also
the creamy parts from the carapace, and add thereto their weight of
cooked mushrooms and half that quantity of truffles—both of which
products should also be in dice. Thicken this _salpicon_ with a few
tablespoonfuls of lobster sauce, and spread it in even layers on the
bottom of each half-carapace.
Reserve, however, two tablespoonfuls of it for garnishing the emptied
claws.
Upon the _salpicon_ lay the slices of lobster, kept hot, alternating
these with fine slices of truffles. Set the two half-carapaces, thus
garnished, on a dish, and wedge them upright by means of the two claws.
Coat the slices and the claws with Cardinal sauce; sprinkle with grated
cheese and melted butter; set to glaze quickly in a fierce oven or at
the salamander, and serve instantly.
944—HOMARD CLARENCE
Cook the lobster in _court-bouillon_, and drain it as soon as it is
done.
When it is only lukewarm, split it open lengthwise; take the meat from
the tail; slice it, and keep it hot in a vegetable-pan with a few drops
of fish _fumet_ or the cooking-liquor of mushrooms.
Remove the remains of meat and the creamy parts from the carapace;
pound the two former together with two tablespoonfuls of cream; strain
through a fine sieve, and add to the resulting cullis one-half pint of
Béchamel sauce with curry.
Garnish the two half-carapaces, two-thirds full, with rice à
l’Indienne; set the slices of lobster on this rice, intercalating them
with slices of truffle; coat thinly with the prepared Béchamel sauce,
and set the two garnished and sauced half-carapaces on a long, hot dish.
Send to the table, at the same time, a sauceboat containing Béchamel
with curry.
945—HOMARD A LA CRÈME
Proceed as for “Homard à la New-burg à cru” (No. 948), but swill with
brandy only, and add, immediately, four oz. of fresh, peeled truffles
cut into slices.
Moisten, almost sufficiently to cover, with very fresh, thin cream;
season with salt and cayenne, and cook the lobster. Then take the meat
from the carapaces, and put it into a timbale; reduce the cream to
one-third pint, and mix therewith three tablespoonfuls of melted, white
meat-glaze and a few drops of lemon juice.
Strain this sauce through muslin, and pour it over the pieces of
lobster.
946—HOMARD GRILLÉ
For this purpose, the lobster may be taken raw, but it is better,
first, to have it three-parts cooked in _court-bouillon_.
Now split it into two lengthwise; sprinkle it with melted butter, and
set it on the grill for its cooking to be completed.
Treated thus, the meat of the lobster does not harden as when it is
grilled raw. Dish the grilled lobster on a napkin or on a drainer,
after having broken the shell of the claws in order to facilitate the
withdrawal of the meat, and surround with curled-leaf parsley.
Serve a “Devilled sauce Escoffier,” or any other sauce suited to
grilled fish, with the lobster, but remember that the first-named sauce
is the fittest that could be found for this particular dish.
947—HOMARD A LA MORNAY, otherwise AU GRATIN
Proceed in all points as directed under “Homard Cardinal” (No. 943),
but substitute Mornay sauce for Cardinal.
=Homard à la New-burg=
This dish may be prepared in two ways—with raw lobster and with the
latter cooked some time beforehand. The second way is the more correct,
but the first, which is less troublesome to prepare, is more suited to
the work of large establishments.
948—HOMARD A LA NEW-BURG (with raw lobster)
Cut up the live lobster, and fry it in oil and butter as explained
under “Homard à l’Américaine.” When the pieces of lobster are stiffened
and coloured, clear them of all grease; swill the sautépan with one
tablespoonful of burnt brandy and one-half pint of Marsala.
Reduce by a third; season, and add two-thirds pint of cream and
one-sixth pint of fish _fumet_. Cover and set to cook for fifteen
minutes.
Take out the pieces of lobster; withdraw the meat therefrom, and keep
it hot in a covered timbale. Thicken the sauce with the reserved
intestines and coral of the lobster, which should be chopped in
combination with one oz. of butter.
Set to boil a second time; rub the sauce through tammy, and pour it
over the pieces of lobster.
949—HOMARD A LA NEW-BURG (with the lobster cooked)
Cook the lobster in _court-bouillon_. Remove the shell from the tail;
take the meat therefrom, and cut it into regular slices. Lay these
slices in a liberally-buttered sautépan, season strongly, and heat the
slices on both sides until the outside membrane acquires a fine red
colour.
Moisten with enough Madeira to almost cover the slices, and reduce the
moistening almost entirely. When dishing up, pour a leason, composed
of one and one-quarter pints of cream and two egg-yolks, over the
slices. Stir gently on the side of the fire until the thickening has
been effected by the cooking of the egg-yolks, and serve in a lukewarm
timbale.
950—HOMARD A LA PALESTINE
Cut up the live lobster and toss it in butter with a _mirepoix_
prepared in advance, as for crayfish intended for potage bisque.
Moisten with two-thirds pint of white wine, one pint of fish _fumet_,
and three tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy. Cover and cook for fifteen
minutes.
Now detach the sections of the tail and the claws; withdraw the meat
from them, and keep them hot in a small covered saucepan with a little
butter. Pound the carapace and remains of the lobster in a mortar;
fry them in four tablespoonfuls of very hot oil, and add thereto an
ordinary _mirepoix_, cut very fine. Moisten with the cooking-liquor
of the lobster, and set to cook for one-quarter hour. Strain through
muslin; leave to stand for five minutes, that the oil may rise to
the surface, and then completely remove it. Reduce this liquid to
one-quarter pint; thicken it with the reserved creamy parts of the
lobster, rubbed through tammy, and two tablespoonfuls of fish velouté,
and finish this sauce with two and one-half oz. of curry butter.
Arrange a border of pilaff rice (No. 2255) on the dish intended for
the lobster; set the pieces of lobster, kept hot, in the centre, and
coat these with a few tablespoonfuls of curry sauce.
Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.
951—MOUSSELINES DE HOMARD
In the matter of crustaceans, the term _mousse_ stands, as a rule,
for a cold preparation, whereas the term _mousseline_ is only applied
to warm dishes. The special _mousselines_ or quenelles of lobster are
made with a _mousseline_ forcemeat, the recipe for which I gave under
No. 195. This forcemeat is prepared with the raw meat of the lobster.
As with the other crustaceans, their meat produces forcemeat which is
somewhat too flimsy to be spoon-moulded, and it is preferable to poach
it in special well-buttered quenelle- or _dariole-moulds_.
_Mousselines_ are poached under cover in a moderate oven.
All the garnishes and sauces given in respect of salmon _mousselines_
may be applied here. The reader will therefore refer to:—
Mousselines de Saumon Alexandra (No. 798).
Mousselines de Saumon à la Tosca (No. 799).
952—SOUFFLÉS DE HOMARD
For lobster _soufflés_ the same forcemeat is used as for the
_mousselines_; but, unlike the latter, it is poached in the
half-carapaces of the lobster, the meat of which has served in
its preparation. The procedure is as follows:—First cook the two
half-carapaces carefully, that they may not lose their shape in the
process.
After having drained and dried them, fill them with _mousseline_
forcemeat and surround them with strong, buttered paper, which should
be tied on with string, and should overreach the edges of the carapaces
by one inch.
The object of this measure is to prevent the forcemeat from spilling
during the poaching.
Lay the two garnished carapaces on a tray containing just enough
boiling water to moisten its whole surface. Put the tray in a moderate
oven or in a steamer, and allow from fifteen to twenty minutes for the
_soufflé_ to poach.
This done, carefully drain the two carapaces; remove the paper holding
in the forcemeat; dish them on a napkin, and surround them with bunches
of very green, curled-leaf parsley. Serve separately a sauce in keeping
with the preparation; _i.e._, a Normande, a White-wine, a Diplomate, or
a Béchamel finished with lobster butter, &c.
N.B.—The above constitutes the model-recipe of lobster _soufflé_,
and I need scarcely point out that the latter may be varied almost
indefinitely in accordance with the fancy of the cook and the taste of
the consumer.
Thus the forcemeat may be garnished with truffles in dice, slices
of lobster, milt, or poached oysters, &c., which garnishes may also
be laid on the _soufflé_ when it is finished. I therefore leave to
the operator, who should now see his way quite clearly, the task of
imagining the various possible combinations, a description of which
would but unnecessarily delay the progress of this work.
953—COLD LOBSTER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES
Cook the lobster in _court-bouillon_, and let it cool in the latter.
Drain it, sever the claws, and break them open in order to withdraw
their meat. Split the lobster into two lengthwise, remove the
intestines and the queen, and dish it on a napkin. Lay the claws on
either side of it, and surround it either with curled-leaf parsley or
with a few hearts of lettuce.
Send to the table separately one of the derivative sauces of the
Mayonnaise (Nos. 122 to 132).
954—ASPIC DE HOMARD
Under “Aspic de filets de soles” (No. 915), I pointed out the
preparatory principles of an aspic; in this case, therefore, I shall
only refer to the various details very cursorily.
Let a thin coating of white fish jelly set on the bottom of an
aspic-mould incrusted in ice. The reader is reminded of the great care
that must be observed in the preparation of an aspic jelly, that the
latter be limpid, succulent, and just sufficiently firm not to break
when withdrawn from the mould. Decorate the bottom of the mould with
bits of truffle, poached white of egg, lobster coral, capers, and
tarragon leaves.
The decorative design cannot be described; it must be left to the taste
and fancy of the operator; all I can urge is that it be as regular and
symmetrical as possible.
Fix the decoration by means of a few drops of jelly; then cover the
whole with a thickness of one inch of the same jelly, and leave the
latter to set. Upon this layer of jelly arrange rows of thin slices of
lobster meat and slices of truffles placed alternately and slightly
overlapping. Now add enough jelly to cover these slices, and continue
filling up the mould with varying layers consisting respectively of
jelly (one inch thick) and the slices above described.
When about to serve, dip the mould in hot water; dry it, and turn out
the aspic upon a dish covered with a napkin.
955—CÔTELETTES DE HOMARD ARKANGEL
Prepare a _salpicon_ of lobster meat in dice combined with its weight
of caviare, the whole quantity being in proportion to the number of
_côtelettes_ required.
Thicken the _salpicon_ with an equal quantity of lobster _mousse_
(No. 956), and at once garnish some moderately oiled cutlet-moulds with
the preparation. As soon as the latter has set, turn out the cutlets;
coat them with a fish chaud-froid sauce, finished with lobster butter;
and deck each with a fine, grooved slice of truffle. Glaze them with
cold melted jelly, and keep them in the cool until required to be
served.
Arrange them in a circle on a round dish; garnish the centre with
chopped white jelly, and serve a Russian salad separately.
956—MOUSSE DE HOMARD
Cook the lobster in a few tablespoonfuls of previously-prepared fine
_mirepoix_, one half-bottle of white wine, and a small glass of burnt
brandy. Leave to cool in the cooking-liquor. Now split the lobster in
two, with the view of withdrawing its meat. Finely pound the latter
while adding thereto, little by little, one-third pint of cold fish
velouté per lb. of meat. Rub through a sieve; put the resulting purée
in a vegetable-pan lying on ice, and stir for a few minutes. This done,
add a little good fish jelly, melted and cold, and one-third pint
of barely-whipped cream. Taste; rectify the seasoning, and warm it
slightly with cayenne.
957—MOUSSE DE HOMARD MOULÉE
When the _mousse_ is intended for moulding, it is well to decorate and
“clothe” the mould with fish jelly some time in advance. I have already
explained that to “clothe” a mould with jelly, all that is needed is to
pour therein a few tablespoonfuls of melted jelly, and then to rock the
utensil on ice. By this means a thin even coating sets on the bottom
and sides of the mould, which, when the moulding is turned out, swathes
the latter in a transparent film.
This “clothing” of jelly may be made more or less thick, according
to the requirements, by simply using more or less jelly, and by
proportionately lengthening or shortening the time for rocking the
mould.
When the mould is clothed, decorate the sides with large slices of very
black truffle dipped in melted jelly, that they may stick.
This done, fill the receptacle with the prepared _mousse_ (see the
preceding recipe), and leave to set in the cool.
For the turning out of the mould and the dishing of the moulding,
proceed as for the aspic.
958—PETITES MOUSSES DE HOMARD
For these small _mousses_, use little _cassolettes_ or silver timbales.
First let a thin layer of jelly (one or two tablespoonfuls, according
to their size) set on the bottom of each utensil, and then surround
the latter with bands of white paper, the ends of which should be
stuck together, and should reach one inch above the brims of the
_cassolettes_. The preparation of _mousse_ may now be placed in the
_cassolettes_ in a sufficient quantity to overflow the brims, so that,
when the paper is removed, their appearance is that of small _soufflés_.
When the _cassolettes_ have been garnished, put them aside on ice or in
a refrigerator until they are served.
959—HOMARD A LA GRAMMONT
Split the lobster open lengthwise down the middle. Withdraw the meat
from the tail; trim it, and cut it into regular collops. Coat the
latter again and again with aspic jelly, that they may be well covered
with it; decorate each with a slice of truffle, and glaze it with the
same aspic.
Also coat with jelly as many very white poached and dried oysters as
there are collops.
Now take the creamy parts and the meat of the claws, and pound them
finely with one tablespoonful of cold Béchamel sauce; rub through a
sieve, and, with the resulting purée combined with melted fish jelly
and cream (see lobster mousse No. 956), prepare a _mousse_ “au paprika”
of a decided pink colour.
Fill the two half-carapaces to their edges with this _mousse_, and
leave it to set on ice.
When about to serve, lay the collops, glazed with jelly, upon this
_mousse_, and place an oyster between each pair. Dish the two garnished
half-carapaces, back to back, upon a napkin, and put the heart of a
lettuce in the middle, and a bunch of curled-leaf parsley at either end.
Serve a mayonnaise or other cold sauce separately.
960—HOMARD A LA PARISIENNE
Tie a lobster to a little board; stretch out its tail to the fullest
extent; cook it in _court-bouillon_, and leave it to cool in the latter.
When it is quite cold, with the help of scissors, carefully cut a strip
of the shell from the back of the head to the tail. The aperture left
by the removed strip of shell ought to be sufficiently wide to allow
of the meat of the tail being removed without breaking it. Having
emptied the tail, refill it with salad leaves, and return the strip of
shell (upside down) to its place. Cut the meat of the tail into even
collops, and lay on each a roundel of truffle stamped out with the
fancy-cutter, and dipped in half-melted jelly. Then coat these slices,
which should be on a dish, again and again, with cold melted jelly
until they are well covered with it.
Now break the claws and remove their meat, as also that remaining in
the carapace, and cut both meats into dice. Take the creamy parts, and
rub them through a sieve.
Prepare a small vegetable salad; add thereto the meat dice, and cohere
the two with a mayonnaise sauce combined with melted jelly and the
creamy parts rubbed through a sieve. When the salad begins to set,
owing to the jelly contained in the mayonnaise, garnish twelve small
artichoke-bottoms with it, arranging the salad in them in pyramid form.
Set a bit of truffle on each pyramid, and sprinkle the salad with
melted fish jelly in order to make it glossy.
_Dishing._—Dish the lobster on a cushion of buttered bread on which a
_julienne_ of lettuce has been stuck, or on one of carved rice. The
cushion should have the shape of a wedge, in order that the lobster may
lie at an angle of about 45°, with its head raised, when laid upon it.
Arrange the slices (slightly overlapping one another) along the back
of the lobster, beginning at its head with the smallest of them, and
progressing down towards the tail, gradually increasing their size.
Surround the lobster alternately with artichoke-bottoms garnished with
salad, and quartered hard-boiled eggs, or halved hard-boiled eggs (set
upright with their yolks facing outwards).
Border the dish with very clear jelly in large cubes or triangles, etc.
961—HOMARD A LA RUSSE
Proceed exactly as above with regard to the cooking of the lobster, the
extraction of the meat, and the cutting of it into slices. Coat the
slices with mayonnaise sauce combined with melted jelly; or, better
still, with a white fish chaud-froid sauce combined with the lobster’s
creamy parts rubbed through a sieve.
Decorate each slice with a bit of coral and two little chervil leaves;
coat them again and again with cold melted aspic, and put them aside in
the cool. “_Clothe_” ten _dariole-moulds_, and decorate the bottom of
each with a slice of truffle. Also prepare ten hard-boiled eggs.
Prepare a Salade Russe (without meat); add to this the remains of the
lobster meat cut into dice, and thicken with mayonnaise and melted
aspic, mixed. With this thickened salad fill the _dariole-moulds_, and
leave to set in the cool.
_Dishing._—Set the lobster on a cushion, after the manner of the
preceding recipe. Trim the slices, and lay them, as before, on the
lobster’s back, taking care to graduate their sizes. Surround the
lobster with the small moulded salads, and alternate these with the
hard-boiled eggs. The latter should be cut in two at a point one-third
of their height above their base; their yolks should be removed, the
space filled with caviare moulded to the form of a pyramid, and, this
done, the eggs should be set upright.
Border the dish with roundels of very clear fish jelly, stamped out by
a fancy-cutter, and lay a bit of truffle upon each.
N.B.—(1) The moulds of salad must, of course, be dipped in hot water
before being turned out.
(2) The lobster may also be served “à la Néva,” “à la Moscovite,” “à
la Sibérienne,” &c., but these preparations are only minor forms of
“Homard à la Russe” under different names.
Changes may be effected in the preparation by altering the constituents
of the salad and its dishing. It may, for instance, be made in small
cucumber or beetroot _barquettes_, while the caviare, instead of being
laid in hard-boiled eggs, may be served in little pleated cases.
As these preparations, however, are based neither on fixed principles
nor on classical rules, I shall refrain from giving them.
962—MAYONNAISE DE HOMARD
Proceed as for Mayonnaise de Saumon—that is to say, garnish the
bottom of a salad-bowl with _ciseled_ lettuce leaves, and season them
moderately.
Upon this salad lay the remains of the lobster, and upon the latter
place the thin slices of the tail. Cover with mayonnaise sauce, and
decorate with strips of anchovy fillets, capers, olives, hard-boiled
eggs, roundels of pink radishes, the hearts of lettuce, &c.
N.B.—I have already pointed out the futility of prescribing a
decorative design. As a rule, the matter is so intimately connected
with the taste and fancy of the individual, and the products used for
the purpose lend themselves to such indefinite variation, that I prefer
merely to enumerate these products, and to leave the question of their
arrangement to the artistic ingenuity of the operator.
963—SALADE DE HOMARD
See “Salade de Saumon” (No. 810). As the preparation and seasoning of
the latter are identical with those of the dish under consideration,
all that is needed is to replace the salmon of recipe No. 810 by the
collops of lobster.
=Spiny Lobsters. (Langouste.)=
All culinary preparations dealing with lobsters may be adapted to spiny
lobsters. There is, therefore, no need to repeat them here. Of the cold
recipes, two are much better suited to the spiny than to the ordinary
kind, though, as they are used for both specimens, I gave them earlier
in the book. The two recipes referred to are:—
964—LANGOUSTE A LA PARISIENNE; see LOBSTER, recipe 960.
965—LANGOUSTE A LA RUSSE; see LOBSTER, recipe 961.
=Crayfish. (Écrevisses.)=
When crayfish are prepared after one of the recipes most commonly used
on the Continent, _i.e._, whole, they are not much relished in England.
This is doubtless accounted for by the fact that ladies, dining in
evening dress, find them somewhat difficult to manage.
They are therefore only served in the form of an aspic, a _mousse_,
_mousselines_, timbales, &c., or as the garnish of some other fish; for
in all these cases they are shelled.
Be all this as it may, I give below the various recipes relating to
them, and from among these it ought to be possible to choose one which
will meet the requirements of any particular case.
966—ÉCREVISSES A LA BORDELAISE
N.B.—Whatever be their mode of preparation, crayfish should always be
thoroughly cleansed and cleared of their intestines, the extreme end of
which is to be found under the middle of the tail. In order to remove
the intestines, take the telson or tail-segment between the point of
a small knife and the thumb, and pull gently. If this were not done,
the intestines, especially in the breeding season, might render the
crayfish disagreeably bitter.
As soon as their intestines have been removed, the crayfish should be
set to cook, otherwise, _i.e._, if they be left to wait, their juices
escape through the anal wound, and they empty.
For twelve crayfish, after having cleaned and eviscerated them,
put them into a vegetable-pan with one tablespoonful of very fine
_mirepoix_, completely cooked beforehand, and two-thirds oz. of butter.
Toss them over an open fire until the shells have acquired a fine,
red colour. Moisten with three tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and
one-quarter pint of white wine; reduce by a third, and complete with
one tablespoonful of Espagnole, two tablespoonfuls of fish _fumet_, the
same quantity of tomato purée, and one spoonful of special _mirepoix_
(No. 229).
Put the lid on, and set to cook for ten minutes.
Dish the crayfish in a timbale; reduce the sauce by a quarter, and
finish it with a few drops of meat glaze, one oz. of butter, a very
little cayenne, chopped chervil, and tarragon. Pour this over the
crayfish, and serve instantly.
967—ÉCREVISSES A LA MARINIÈRE
In the case of twelve crayfish, toss them in two-thirds oz. of butter
over an open fire, until the shells are of a fine red. Season with salt
and pepper; add two finely chopped shallots, a bit of thyme and a bit
of bay; moisten with one-third pint of white wine; cover; cook for ten
minutes, and dish in a timbale.
Reduce the cooking-liquor to half; thicken with two tablespoonfuls of
fish velouté; finish the sauce with one oz. of butter, and pour it over
the crayfish.
Sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley, and serve at once.
968—ÉCREVISSES A LA NAGE
For twelve crayfish, ten minutes beforehand prepare a _court-bouillon_
of one-half pint of white wine, one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_, a
few roundels of carrot and onion, one stalk of parsley cut into dice,
a small pinch of powdered thyme and bay, and a very little salt and
cayenne pepper.
Put the crayfish into the boiling _court-bouillon_; cover, and leave
to cook for ten minutes, taking care to toss the crayfish from time to
time.
When about to serve, pour the crayfish with the _court-bouillon_ and
the aromatics into a timbale.
969—ÉCREVISSES A LA LIÉGEOISE
Cook the crayfish in _court-bouillon_ as explained in the preceding
recipe. Dish them in a timbale, and keep them hot. Strain the
_court-bouillon_; reduce it by a quarter; add one oz. of butter, and
pour it over the crayfish.
Sprinkle with a pinch of _concassed_ parsley.
970—MOUSSELINES D’ÉCREVISSES
What I said with reference to “Mousseline de Homard” (No. 951) applies
perfectly here, and my remarks relative to the variation of the
garnishing ingredients, which are the same as those in No. 951, also
hold good.
971—TIMBALE DE QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES A LA NANTUA
For ten people prepare (1) a shallow timbale crust, and a cover
decorated with a design of leaves or some other ornamental treatment;
(2) toss sixty crayfish in butter with two tablespoonfuls of very
fine _mirepoix_ cooked in butter beforehand. When the crayfish are
of a distinct red, moisten with one glass of white wine and three
tablespoonfuls of burned brandy; season with salt and cayenne pepper;
cover them, and keep them on the side of the fire for ten minutes,
taking care to toss them again from time to time; (3) shell the tails
and put them into a small saucepan with twenty small quenelles of
whiting forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter; fifteen small,
grooved mushrooms, cooked and very white, and three oz. of truffles in
slices. Add a few drops of the mushroom cooking-liquor to this garnish,
and keep it hot; (4) pound the remains and carcasses of the crayfish
very finely; add two-thirds pint of cream sauce to the resulting
purée; rub it through tammy, and add it to the garnish; (5) when about
to serve, pour this garnish into the timbale crust, which should be
very hot, and deck the top with a crown of fine slices of very black
truffle. Close the timbale with its cover, and dish it on a napkin.
972—SOUFFLÉ D’ÉCREVISSES A LA FLORENTINE
Make a preparation of Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a) combined with two
tablespoonfuls of crayfish cream per pint. The cream is prepared after
the manner of lobster cream (No. 295).
Put this preparation in a buttered timbale in alternate layers
separated by litters of sliced truffle and crayfish tails. Cook the
_soufflé_ after the manner of an ordinary one.
973—SOUFFLÉ D’ÉCREVISSES LÉOPOLD DE ROTHSCHILD
Prepare a _soufflé_ as above, and add thereto a bare tablespoonful of
freshly-cooked asparagus and slices of truffle, and crayfish tails
placed between the layers of the _soufflé_ preparation. Cook as above.
974—SOUFFLÉ D’ÉCREVISSES A LA PIÉMONTAISE
This is identical with No. 972, except that the ordinary truffles are
replaced by shavings of Piedmont truffles.
975—ASPIC DE QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES A LA MODERNE
Cook twelve fine crayfish in accordance with the directions under
No. 966, but substitute champagne for the white wine.
Shell the tails; trim them evenly; cut them in two lengthwise, and keep
them in the cool until they are wanted. Remove the creamy parts from
the carapaces of the crayfish; add the trimmings of the tails, the meat
from the claws, and the _mirepoix_ in which the crayfish have cooked.
Pound the whole very finely in a mortar, and rub it through a sieve.
Put the resulting purée in a receptacle; add thereto one-quarter pint
of very cold, melted aspic, and three tablespoonfuls of barely beaten
cream. Leave this preparation to settle.
Trim the crayfish carapaces; fill them with a little prepared _mousse_,
and decorate each carapace with a small roundel of truffle.
Put the remainder of the _mousse_ in the middle of a little crystal
bowl, and mould it to the shape of a cone, narrow towards the base, and
as high as possible.
Arrange the garnished crayfish carapaces on their backs in the bowl
around the cone of _mousse_, and set some crayfish tails in superposed
rings up the cone. The crayfish tails should be dipped in half-melted
jelly, that they may stick fast to the cone. Lay a small, very round
truffle on the top of the cone to complete the decoration. This done,
coat the whole again and again by means of a spoon with half-melted,
succulent, clear fish jelly, and incrust the timbale in a block of ice,
or set it amidst the latter broken up.
976—MOUSSE D’ÉCREVISSES
For ten people cook thirty crayfish as for potage Bisque. This done,
remove the tails, and reserve a dozen fine carapaces. Finely pound
the remainder, together with the _mirepoix_ in which the crayfish
have cooked, and add thereto one-half oz. of butter, one oz. of red
butter (No. 142), one-quarter pint of cold fish velouté, and six
tablespoonfuls of melted fish jelly. Rub through tammy, and put the
resulting purée in a saucepan; stir it over ice for two or three
minutes; add three-quarters pint of half-beaten cream, and the crayfish
tails cut into dice or finely sliced.
Before beginning to prepare the _mousse_, line the bottom and side of a
_Charlotte-mould_ with paper, that the _mousse_ may be moulded as soon
as ready.
Pour the preparation into the mould, taking care to reserve enough for
the twelve carapaces already put aside, and put the _mousse_ on ice or
in a refrigerator until dishing it. Fill the twelve trimmed carapaces
with the reserved _mousse_, and decorate each with a round slice of
truffle. When about to serve, turn out the _mousse_ on a small, round
cushion of semolina or rice, one-half inch thick, lying on a dish.
Remove all the paper, and decorate the top of the _mousse_ with a crown
of fine slices of truffle dipped in melted jelly, that they may be
glossy.
Surround the semolina or rice cushion with a border of chopped jelly,
and arrange the garnished carapaces upon this jelly, setting them
almost upright.
N.B.—(1) Instead of being served on a cushion, the crayfish _mousse_
may be sent to the table in a deep silver dish with a border of chopped
jelly, and surrounded by the garnished carapaces. The utensil is then
laid on a flat dish in a bed of broken ice, or it is incrusted direct
in a block of carved ice.
(2) For the moulding of crayfish _mousse_, the mould may be “_clothed_”
with fish jelly and decorated with slices of truffle, as directed under
“Mousse de Homard moulée” (No. 957).
A _mousse_ prepared in this way may be either dished on a semolina or
rice cushion, or in a deep silver entrée dish, as described above.
976a—SUPRÊMES D’ÉCREVISSES AU CHAMPAGNE
Select forty medium-sized crayfish that seem full of life; cook them
quickly in a highly-seasoned _mirepoix_, moistened with one half-bottle
of dry champagne. This done, shell them; trim their tails, and keep
them in the cool in a small bowl. Pound their shells as finely as
possible with one-quarter lb. of fresh butter, and put the resulting
purée in a saucepan, together with one-half pint of boiling velouté
containing four or five leaves of gelatine, and the cooking-liquor of
the crayfish passed through a fine strainer.
Set to boil for a few minutes, that the remains may exude all their
flavour; rub through tammy over a basin lying on ice, and whisk the
preparation in order to accelerate its cooling. As soon as it begins to
thicken, add one pint of half-whipped cream to it. Then pour the whole
into a silver or porcelain timbale, taking care that the utensil be not
more than three-quarters full.
When the _mousse_ has set, decorate the surface with the reserved
crayfish tails, to which are added, as a finish, bits of truffle
and chervil leaves. Cover the decoration with a thin coating of
easily-melting and amber-coloured fish jelly, and put the timbale on
ice. When about to serve, incrust it in a block of carved ice, or place
it on a silver dish with broken ice all round.
977—MOUSSE D’ÉCREVISSES CARDINAL
For ten people cook the crayfish as explained in No. 976, but take
forty instead of thirty. Shell the tails; trim them and cut them into
dice. Prepare the _mousse_ in the same way, but use twice as much red
butter. Garnish twelve carapaces after the same manner, and decorate
each with a slice of truffle.
_Clothe_ a dome- or Charlotte-mould somewhat thickly with jelly;
garnish its bottom and sides with crayfish tails, previously dipped
in half-melted jelly, and arranged in superposed rows; and place the
crayfish so that the tails of the first row lie to the left, those of
the second row to the right, and so on. As often as possible, do this
work before preparing the _mousse_, in order that the latter may be put
into the mould as soon as ready.
When about to fill the mould, add twenty fine slices of truffle to the
_mousse_. Dish after one of the two methods directed in the appended
note to No. 970, and take care to dip the mould quickly into hot water
before attempting to turn out its contents.
978—PETITS SOUFFLÉS FROIDS D’ÉCREVISSES
Prepare the crayfish _mousse_ as directed under No. 976, and
replace the fish velouté by cold Béchamel. The addition of sauce is
even unnecessary in this case, and the preparation may be all the
more delicate for consisting only of the crayfish cullis and two
tablespoonfuls of fish jelly.
For the moulding of these small _soufflés_ I can only repeat what I
said under “Petites Mousses de Homard” (No. 958). Let a thin coating of
jelly set on the bottom of the small _cassolettes_ or timbales used;
garnish their insides with a band of white paper, reaching one inch
above their brims; stick the end of this band with a little batter.
Now garnish the timbales with _mousse_, letting it project above their
edges to the extent of two-thirds of an inch, and leave it to set in
the cool. When about to serve, remove the band of paper, holding in
the projecting _mousse_, and the appearance of the garnished timbales
is exactly that of small, hot _soufflés_. Allow one _soufflé_ for each
person.
979—SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS (Crevettes Grises et Crevettes Roses)
Prawns are chiefly used for hors-d’œuvres, but they may, nevertheless,
be prepared in Aspics; Mousses; small cold Soufflés, &c.
As regards shrimps, their use is entirely limited to garnishes,
hors-d’œuvres, and to the preparation of soups, shrimp butters, and
creams.
OYSTERS. (HUÎTRES.)
Though oysters are nicer raw, there are so many culinary preparations
of which they form the leading constituent, and such a number of
garnishing uses to which they may be put, that I feel compelled to
mention some of these.
980—HUÎTRES A LA FAVORITE
Poach the oysters (cleared of their beards) in their own liquor, which
should have been carefully collected when opening them. Clean their
hollow shells, and place them on a tray covered with a layer of salt
one-half inch thick. Garnish them with Béchamel; upon the latter, in
each shell, lay an oyster decked with a slice of truffle; cover with
the same sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter, and
set to glaze quickly. Serve immediately.
981—HUÎTRES AU GRATIN
Open the oysters; cut them free, and lay them in the hollow halves of
their shells, which should be incrusted in a layer of salt covering
a tray. On each oyster put a drop of lemon juice, a pinch of fried
bread-crumbs, a little melted butter, and a piece of fresh butter the
size of a pea.
Set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven or at the salamander, and
serve immediately.
982—HUÎTRES A LA MORNAY
Poach the oysters, and allow two per shell.
Set the hollow shells, thoroughly cleansed, on a tray covered with
salt. Cover the bottom of the shells with Mornay sauce; put two poached
oysters into each; cover with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated
cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze quickly. Serve instantly.
983—HUÎTRES SOUFFLÉES
Make a preparation of Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a). Slightly poach
the oysters, clean their hollow shells, and set these on a tray covered
with kitchen salt. Spread a layer of the preparation on each shell; put
an oyster thereon, and cover the latter with the soufflé au Parmesan.
Heat the base of the tray on the stove, and, when the _soufflé_ begins
to rise, put the tray in the oven, that the _soufflé_ may cook and
colour at the same time. Serve at once.
984—HUÎTRES A LA FLORENTINE
Poach the oysters. Set their hollow shells on a tray as above; garnish
the bottom of each of these with shredded spinach stewed in butter; lay
an oyster on the spinach in each shell; cover with Mornay sauce, and
set to glaze quickly. Serve immediately.
985—HUÎTRES GRILLÉES
Open the oysters, and leave them in their hollow shells; lay them (very
straight) on a tray covered with salt, incrusting them in the latter;
besprinkle with a drop of lemon juice and a little mignonette pepper
and put them in a fierce oven, that their top surfaces may be speedily
poached.
Dish them on a napkin; pour a coffeespoonful of “Sauce Diable
Escoffier” over each, and serve directly.
986—QUENELLES D’HUÎTRES A LA REINE
With four oz. of chicken fillets and six raw oysters, prepare a
_mousseline_ forcemeat in accordance with the directions given under
No. 195. Mould this forcemeat, by means of a tablespoon, into large
quenelles, in the centre of which lay two cold poached oysters.
Poach these quenelles after the manner of ordinary _mousselines_. This
done, drain them on a piece of linen; arrange them in a circle on a
round dish, and cover them with highly-seasoned Suprême sauce. Decorate
each quenelle with a fine slice of truffle, and garnish the middle of
the dish with some asparagus-tops, cohered with butter.
987—BASS (Bar)
This excellent fish is very little known, and, consequently, rarely
sought after in England.
The large specimens are served, boiled, with the same kind of sauce as
for turbot. The smaller ones are chiefly served à la Meunière or fried.
988—BRILL (Barbue)
Served whole, brill may be looked upon as the understudy, as it were,
of the chicken-turbot, and all the preparations given for the latter
may be adapted to the former.
If it be preferred filleted, it may be treated after the recipes
given for fillets of sole. Hence for brill cooked whole refer to
chicken-turbot and the recipes Nos. 925 to 938, and for filleted brill
see recipes Nos. 865 to 922.
989—BLOATERS
Bloaters, or herrings partially dried in smoke, form one of the nicest
breakfast dishes. As a rule, they are simply grilled over a moderate
fire. It should be borne in mind that, as these fish are only partially
salted and smoked, they will not keep very long.
COD. (CABILLAUD.)
If cod were less common, it would be held in as high esteem as salmon;
for, when it is really fresh and of good quality, the delicacy and
delicious flavour of its flesh admit of its ranking among the finest of
fish.
990—CABILLAUD BOUILLI
Fresh cod is mostly served boiled, either whole, in sections, or
in _darnes_, and the directions given under “The Boiling of Fish”
(No. 776) apply particularly to this fish.
Boiled fresh cod is always accompanied by its liver, poached in salted
water, and very floury potatoes, boiled at the last minute, must always
be sent to the table with it.
Served thus with an oyster sauce, a Hollandaise sauce, or melted
butter, fresh cod constitutes a Relevé which would satisfy the most
exacting of gourmets.
991—CABILLAUD GRILLÉ
Cut the fish into slices one inch or two inches thick. Season these
slices; dredge them; sprinkle them copiously with melted butter, and
set them to grill, remembering to baste them frequently the while with
melted butter.
Serve them on a hot dish; garnish them with slices of lemon, and
surround with bunches of parsley.
Send a Maître-d’Hôtel or Anchovy butter, or a grilled-fish sauce to the
table with the dish.
992—CABILLAUD FRIT
Cut some slices of fresh cod, from one inch to one and one-half
inches thick. Season them, treat them _à l’anglaise_, and fry them
sufficiently to allow of their being well cooked all through. Dish
them on a napkin with fried parsley and lemon, and send a butter sauce
(No. 66), a tartare sauce, or a tomato sauce to the table at the same
time as the fish.
993—CABILLAUD CRÈME GRATIN
For ten people take two lbs. of boiled fresh cod divided into small
pieces; clear these of all bones and skin, and keep them hot in a
little of their cooking-liquor.
Now, with the necessary quantity of Duchesse potatoes (No. 221), and by
means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, lay a border, one and
one-half inches high, round a dish, shaping it in such wise that it is
thickest at its base. The dish may be either round or oval. Carefully
_gild_ this border with egg-yolks.
This done, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce on the dish; lay
thereon the drained pieces of cod, and cover the latter with enough
Mornay sauce to reach within one-third of an inch of the brim of the
border. If more sauce were used, it would flow over the border during
the process of glazing.
Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; set to glaze, and see
that the border gets evenly coloured.
Serve the moment the dish is withdrawn from the oven.
N.B.—This mode of preparation is not restricted to fresh cod. It may be
applied to all other boiled fish—turbot, chicken-turbot, brill, bass,
salmon, &c.
994—CABILLAUD A LA FLAMANDE
Cut the fresh cod into slices one inch thick; season them with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put them in a sautépan or a deep,
liberally-buttered tray. Moisten with white wine to the height of the
slices; add chopped shallots and “fines herbes,” and garnish the fish
with roundels of pipped lemon, peeled to the pulp.
Set to boil, and then poach in the oven for twelve minutes. Place the
slices on a dish; thicken their cooking-liquor with crushed _biscotte_;
cook it for five minutes; pour it over the slices, and serve.
995—CABILLAUD A LA PORTUGAISE
For ten people, cut five slices of fresh cod, each weighing
one-half lb., and season them with salt and pepper. Put these slices
into a sautépan containing the following garnish, into which they
should be pressed:—Three oz. of butter and one-sixth pint of oil; one
large onion, chopped and lightly coloured in butter; a bit of crushed
garlic the size of a pea; one faggot; two pinches of _concassed_
parsley; eight medium-sized, peeled, pressed, and minced tomatoes, and
one-third pint of white wine.
Cover the sautépan, and set to boil on an open fire for five minutes.
Now take the lid off the saucepan, and leave it to cook for twelve
minutes on the side of the fire, in order that the liquid may be
reduced and the fish cooked at the same moment of time.
Set the slices on a long dish; withdraw the faggot, and pour the
garnish and the cooking-liquor over the fish.
996—LAITANCES DE CARPE (Carp’s Milt)
The milt of a carp makes a very delicate dish. It is served either as
a second fish at a dinner; as a garnish to large fish Relevés, after
having been poached in salted water; or cut while raw into slices which
are generally treated _à la Meunière_.
997—LAITANCES A LA MEUNIÈRE
Prepare them whole or in collops, in pursuance of the directions given
under “The Cooking of Fish à la Meunière” (No. 778).
998—BARQUETTES DE LAITANCES A LA FLORENTINE
Poach the milts in salted water; cut them into small, long slices, and
set them in _barquette_ crusts prepared in advance.
Cover the sliced milts with a soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), and
shape the latter slightly after the manner of a dome.
Arrange the _barquettes_ on a dish, and put them in a moderate oven,
that they may cook and the _soufflé_ be glazed at the same time.
When taking them out of the oven, dish them on a napkin and serve
immediately.
999—CAISSES DE LAITANCES A LA NANTUA
Poach the milts in salted water. Drain them, and cut them into small
slices thicker than their length.
Place these slices in small pleated porcelain cases with two crayfish
tails in each. Fill up the cases with Nantua sauce, and lay a fine
slice of truffle over the centre of each case.
1000—JOHN DORY (St. Pierre)
This fish, which is in the highest degree unsightly, is possessed
of flesh whose firmness, whiteness, and delicacy are of the rarest
excellence; and, when quite fresh, its fillets are certainly equal in
quality to those of the chicken-turbot and the sole.
Albeit the dory is not as popular as it deserves to be, and this is
owing either to its unsightliness, which may prejudice the opinion of
gourmets against it, to people’s indifference with regard to it, or to
a mere trick of fashion.
While I admit its unpopularity, however, I should strongly recommend
all lovers of fish to give it a trial. Let them prepare the
dory’s fillets after the recipes given under Fillets of Sole and
Chicken-turbot, and, provided the directions be properly carried out, I
venture to believe that the prevailing aversion to dory will very soon
be found to have no warrant in fact.
1001—FRESH HADDOCK (Eglefin)
This fish is chiefly eaten smoked, under the name of haddock.
When it is fresh, it may be prepared after the recipes given for cod,
to which it is quite equal in the matter of delicacy.
1002—SMELT (Éperlans)
Owing to their small size, smelts only lend themselves to a very
limited number of preparations. They are usually served either on
little skewers or dished in a heap on a napkin, with fried parsley and
grooved half-lemons; those on skewers are dished flat with the same
garnish.
Large smelts may be treated after the recipes immediately following.
1003—ÉPERLANS A L’ANGLAISE
Open the smelts down the back and carefully bone, without disfiguring
them. Treat them _à l’anglaise_ with fine bread-crumbs, and pat them
lightly with the flat of a knife, that the bread-crumbs may adhere well.
Cook them in clarified butter; set them on a long hot dish, and
besprinkle them with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel (No. 150).
1004—ÉPERLANS AU GRATIN
Proceed as for “Merlans au Gratin” (No. 1018), but allowing for the
difference between the sizes of the two fish, put the smelts in a
fiercer oven than the whiting, in order that they may be cooked
simultaneously with the formation of the _gratin_.
1005—ÉPERLANS GRILLÉS
Open them down the back, and remove the bulk of their spine, leaving
a small piece only in the region of the tail, and another small piece
at the head. Season, dredge, and sprinkle them with melted butter, and
grill them quickly.
Set them on a long, hot dish; surround them with slices of lemon and
bunches of fried parsley, and serve separately either some half-melted
butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel, or a sauce suited to grilled fish.
1006—MOUSSELINES D’ÉPERLANS
Proceed exactly as for Mousselines de Saumon (No. 797). To prepare the
forcemeat, follow the directions under No. 195; but note the following
changes:—Of the whole quantity of the meat of fish, that of the smelt
should only measure one-third; the other two-thirds should be supplied
by the sole, dory, or whiting.
The object of this disproportion has already been explained under
“Velouté d’Éperlans” (No. 680). The flesh of the smelt is of a much too
decided flavour to be used alone, and when this flavour dominates, it
becomes positively disagreeable; hence the need of a fish whose flesh
is almost neutral in so far as taste is concerned. But this addition of
a fish foreign to the base of the preparation fulfils a double purpose;
for, while it effectually weakens the pungency of the smelt’s flesh, it
also enables the whole preparation to absorb a much larger quantity of
cream, and this last circumstance can only allow of the _mousselines_
being lighter and mellower.
1007—MOUSSE CHAUDE D’ÉPERLANS A LA ROYALE
Take a Charlotte-mould, of a size in proportion to the number of people
to be served, and butter its bottom and sides. Cover the bottom of the
mould with a round piece of buttered kitchen paper, and do the same on
the sides.
Prepare the required quantity of smelts’ fillets; slightly flatten them
in order to break their fibres, and trim them all to the same length
and width.
Then garnish the bottom of the mould with the fillets of smelt, placing
them so that their skin-sides are against the mould. Between each of
the fillets set a small strip of truffle, one quarter of the width of
the former.
Garnish the sides in the same way, putting a strip of truffle between
each; but take care to place the fillets aslant instead of upright.
Having thus lined the mould with fillets of smelt and truffle, cover
the whole with a layer of _mousseline_ forcemeat, one-half inch thick.
Now fill the mould in the following way:—On the layer of forcemeat
covering the fillets at the bottom of the mould set as many slices of
truffle as will cover it; spread another layer of forcemeat on the
truffle, and over that lay, alternately, a sufficient quantity of
fillets of smelt and anchovy. Follow with a fresh layer of forcemeat,
slices of truffle, &c., until the mould is full, and finish with a
layer of forcemeat.
Poach the _mousse_ (covered) in a moderate oven, and allow fifty
minutes for one prepared in a quart-mould. It is very easy, however, to
tell when the _mousse_ is done, by simply thrusting a small knife into
it; if the blade of the knife withdraws quite clean, the _mousse_ is
cooked.
As soon as it is ready, turn the mould upside-down on a dish, and raise
it a little in order to allow the liquid, which always accumulates in
more or less large quantities, to drain away. Soak up this liquid;
gently draw off the mould; take off the paper, and remove the froth
which may have formed on the fillets by means of a wet brush.
Lay a fine, grooved mushroom on the top of the _mousse_; surround it
with _mousseline_ sauce (No. 92), finished with crayfish butter, and
send a sauceboat of the same _mousseline_ sauce to the table with the
dish.
N.B.—This _mousse_ may also be prepared with fillets of sole, of
salmon, or of trout, &c.
1008—HADDOCK
Sometimes the fish is grilled, but, after having boned it and removed
its fins and the greater part of its belly, it is more often cooked in
water or milk, either of which moistening is usually short.
It is plunged in slightly salted boiling water, and then it is moved to
the side of the fire to poach, with lid on. Allow about fifteen minutes
for a fish weighing one and one-half lbs.
Dish it with a few tablespoonfuls of its cooking-liquor, and, subject
to the consumer’s taste, serve some fresh or melted butter separately.
When haddock is served at lunch, send to the table with it an egg-sauce
and a timbale of potatoes, freshly cooked _à l’anglaise_.
=Mackerel (Maquereau)=
1009—MAQUEREAU BOUILLI, SAUCE AUX GROSEILLES
Cut the mackerels into three, crosswise, and poach them in
_court-bouillon_ with vinegar (No. 163), seasoned with a pinch of
fennel per pint. Drain them on a napkin; skin them, and dish them with
curled-leaf parsley all round.
With the mackerels serve a gooseberry sauce prepared as follows:—
_Green Gooseberry Sauce proper to Mackerel._—Cook one lb. of green
gooseberries in a copper sugar boiler with three oz. of sugar and
enough water to cover them, and then rub them through tammy.
1010—MAQUEREAU GRILLÉ
Cut off the extremity of the mackerels’ mouths; open them down the
back, without dividing them into two.
Season them; sprinkle them with melted butter, and grill them gently,
taking care to baste them by means of a brush with melted butter while
they are cooking.
Set them on a round, hot dish, and sprinkle them with half-melted
butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel, after having drawn their halves together,
that they may seem natural and untouched.
Or surround them with grooved slices of lemon, and send a “Sauce Diable
Escoffier” to the table separately. This sauce constitutes an excellent
adjunct to grilled mackerel.
1011—FILETS DE MAQUEREAU AUX FINES HERBES
Raise some mackerels’ fillets in such wise as to leave the bones quite
clean. Arrange the fillets on a buttered dish, and poach them in white
wine and the cooking-liquor of mushrooms in equal quantities. Take care
to cover them while they are being poached.
This done, drain them; skin them; set them on a long dish, and cover
them with a herb sauce (No. 83), combined with their cooking-liquor
strained through linen and reduced.
1012—FILETS DE MAQUEREAU AU PERSIL
Raise the fillets as before, and poach them in a white-wine
_court-bouillon_ with one-half oz. of parsley leaves per pint. Drain
them; skin them; set them on a long dish, and cover them with a
parsley sauce. This latter is a butter sauce (No. 66) to which some
freshly-chopped parsley is added at the last moment.
1013—FILETS DE MAQUEREAU A LA VÉNITIENNE
Poach the fillets in a _court-bouillon_ with white wine. Drain them;
skin them; set them on a long dish, and cover them with a Venetian
sauce (No. 107).
=Whiting (Merlan)=
1014—MERLAN A L’ANGLAISE
Open the whitings down the back; loosen the spine, and completely
remove it. Season them inside, and treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very
fresh and fine bread-crumbs.
Cook the whitings very quickly in clarified butter; set them on a long
dish, and sprinkle them with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel.
N.B.—Whitings à l’anglaise may also be grilled, but it is preferable to
cook them in clarified butter.
1015—MERLAN A LA BERCY
Slightly open the whitings down the back, with the view of promoting
their cooking process. Lay them on a buttered dish sprinkled with
finely-chopped shallots, and moisten them with white wine and fish
_fumet_. Add one-half oz. of butter per whiting, and cook in the
oven, basting often the while. The moment when the whitings are quite
done should be coincident with the almost complete reduction of their
cooking-liquor.
Set to glaze at the last moment.
When taking the whitings out of the oven, sprinkle them with a few
drops of lemon juice and a little chopped parsley.
1016—MERLAN A LA COLBERT
Open the whitings down the back, and bone them. Season them; dip them
in milk; roll them in flour; and treat them _à l’anglaise_. Fry them;
drain them; set them on a long dish; garnish the openings in their
backs with butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel and border the dish with grooved
slices of lemon.
1017—MOUSSELINES DE MERLAN
For the preparation of the _mousseline_ forcemeat, refer to No. 195.
The moulding and poaching of these _mousselines_ are the same as for
salmon _mousselines_, and the preparations suited to the latter may
likewise be applied to mousselines de merlans. (See Mousselines de
Saumon, Nos. 797 to 799.)
1018—FILETS DE MERLAN AU GRATIN
Raise the fillets from some whitings, and leave the bones quite clean.
Lay them on a buttered dish besprinkled with chopped shallots, the
bottom of which should have been covered with a few tablespoonfuls of
_gratin_ sauce. Surround the fillets with slices of raw mushrooms; set
two small, cooked mushrooms upon each fillet; pour a few tablespoonfuls
of white wine into the dish, and cover the whole with gratin sauce.
Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and put the dish in
a sufficiently fierce oven to (1) reduce the sauce; (2) allow the
_gratin_ to form; and (3) cook the fillets at the same moment of time.
In respect of this operation, refer to Complete Gratin, No. 269.
When taking the dish from the oven, sprinkle a little chopped parsley
and a few drops of lemon juice over it.
N.B.—If the whiting be treated whole, the procedure remains the same.
1019—PAUPIETTES DE MERLAN AU GRATIN
Raise some fillets of whiting; coat them with a fish forcemeat combined
with fine herbs, and roll them into scrolls. Set these rolled fillets
on a round, buttered _gratin_ dish sprinkled with chopped shallots, the
bottom of which should have been covered with _gratin_ sauce.
Surround them with a border of sliced, raw mushrooms; place a small,
cooked mushroom on each fillet, and proceed for the rest of the
operation exactly as explained under “Filets de Merlan au Gratin.”
1020—MERLAN EN LORGNETTE AU GRATIN
Separate the fillets from the bones, proceeding from the tail to the
head, and completely remove the spine near the head. Cover the fillets
with fish forcemeat “aux fines herbes,” and roll them into scrolls with
their tail-ends inside.
Set them on a round dish sprinkled with chopped shallots and covered
with _gratin_ sauce, placing them side by side, all round the dish,
with the whitings’ heads in the centre; and proceed for the rest of the
operation as explained under No. 1018.
N.B.—Whitings prepared in this way may be treated with white wine,
Dieppoise, Bercy, fried, &c.
1021—FILETS DE MERLAN ORLY
Raise the fillets and proceed as for “Filets de Soles Olga,” No. 893.
1022—MERLAN SUR LE PLAT
Proceed as for “Sole sur le Plat,” No. 837.
1023—MERLAN A LA RICHELIEU
Prepare six “Merlans à l’anglaise,” No. 1014. Lay thereon a few slices
of truffle. Or dish them simply on their sides; garnish their top
surfaces with the butter prescribed above, and put a row of truffle
slices on the butter.
1024—MORUE AND SALTED COD (Morue et Cabillaud Salé)
Salted cod bought in England has generally been fished somewhere along
the English coast, and is, as a rule, of recent salting. It has not the
peculiar flavour of the Icelandic _morue_, or that of the Newfoundland
specimens, and it does not lend itself to such a large variety of
preparations as these two.
At the end of each of the following recipes, I indicate the kind of cod
to which the procedure may be applied.
_Morue_, especially the Newfoundland kind, should be set to soak at
least twelve hours before being used, and the water during that time
should be frequently changed.
When about to cook it, suppress its fins, and cut it up in a way
befitting the selected mode of preparation.
Allow four oz. gross of the fish for each person.
1024a—SALTED COD AND MORUE A L’ANGLAISE
Put the fish into cold water; set to boil, and as soon as this point is
reached, leave the fish to poach on the side of the fire for fifteen
minutes.
Drain, skin, dish on a napkin, and serve, separately, a timbale of
parsnips and an egg-sauce à l’Écossaise.
Both kinds of cod may be used for this dish.
1025—MORUE A LA BÉNÉDICTINE
Poach one and one-half lbs. of _morue_ as above; drain it and cut into
small pieces, cleared of all skin and bone. Pound it quickly while it
is still hot, and add to it half its weight of potatoes cooked as for
a purée, drained, and dried in the oven for a few minutes. When the
whole has been reduced to a fine paste, add one-sixth pint of oil, and
one-quarter pint of boiled milk. The oil and the milk should be added
little by little, and the paste should be more mellow than stiff.
Serve in a buttered _gratin_ dish; arrange the preparation in the form
of a dome; sprinkle with melted butter, and set to colour in the oven.
Icelandic and Newfoundland _morue_.
1026—MORUE AU BEURRE NOIR OU AU BEURRE NOISETTE
Cut the _morue_ into squares or rectangles; roll these into
_paupiettes_ or scrolls, and bind these with a piece of string. Poach
them in the usual way; drain them; scrape their skins, and dish them.
Sprinkle with _concassed_ parsley; add lemon juice, and cover with
brown or lightly-browned butter. Either kind of cod may be used.
1027—BRANDADE DE MORUE
Cut one lb. of _morue_ into pieces, and poach these for eight minutes.
The eight minutes should be counted from the time the water begins to
boil.
Drain on a sieve, and clear the pieces of all skin and bones. Heat in
a sautépan one-sixth pint of oil until the latter smokes; throw the
cleaned pieces of _morue_ into the oil; add a piece of crushed garlic
the size of a haricot-bean, and stir over a brisk fire with a wooden
spoon until the _morue_ is reduced to shreds.
Then take the saucepan off the fire, and, without ceasing to stir
the paste, add thereto, little by little, as for a mayonnaise, about
one-half pint of oil. When the paste begins to stiffen through the
addition of the oil, now and again add a tablespoonful of milk. For the
amount of _morue_ used, one-quarter pint of boiling milk should thus be
added by degrees.
When the Brandade is finished, it should have the consistence of an
ordinary potato purée. When about to serve, taste the preparation, and
rectify its seasoning.
Dish the Brandade in a hot timbale, building it up in the shape of a
pyramid, and set thereon a crown of bread-crumb triangles fried in
butter just before dishing up.
N.B.—The triangles of fried bread may, with advantage, be replaced by
lozenges made from puff-paste, which are baked without colouration. For
the Brandade use only well-soaked Icelandic or Newfoundland _morue_.
1028—BRANDADE DE MORUE A LA CRÈME
Follow the directions given above, but instead of oil and milk, use
two-thirds pint of cream, which should be added to the _morue_ paste by
spoonfuls.
1029—MORUE A LA CRÉOLE
Finely mince an onion, and cook it gently in butter until it is
of a nice golden colour. Spread it on the bottom of a little oval
earthenware dish, and set three tomatoes prepared à la Provençale
(No. 2268) upon it.
Poach one lb. of _morue_; drain it as soon as ready, and flake it
while clearing it of all skin and bones. Lay this flaked _morue_ on
the slices of tomato; cover it with three mild capsicums, split and
broiled; sprinkle the whole with a few drops of lemon juice and one oz.
of lightly-browned butter, and put the dish in the oven for a few
minutes. Serve very hot.
Icelandic or Newfoundland _morue_ may be used.
1030—CABILLAUD SALE, OR MORUE A LA HOLLANDAISE
Proceed exactly as for “Sole à la Hollandaise” (No. 829). Both kinds
suit this preparation.
1031—CABILLAUD SALE, OR MORUE A L’INDIENNE
Poach one lb. of salted cod or _morue_, and flake it while clearing it
of all skin and bones. Mix this flaked fish with two-thirds pint of
Indienne sauce, and dish it in a hot timbale.
Serve some rice à l’Indienne separately.
Both kinds of fish are suited to this dish.
1032—MORUE A LA LYONNAISE
Poach one lb. of _morue_, and flake it as explained above. Finely
mince a medium-sized onion, and toss it in butter. Also toss three
medium-sized potatoes cut into roundels. Heat one oz. of butter and two
tablespoonfuls of oil in a frying-pan; put therein the flaked _morue_
and the potatoes, and toss the whole over a brisk fire for a few
minutes.
When about to dish up, add a few drops of vinegar.
Dish in a hot timbale, and sprinkle the _morue_ with a pinch of chopped
parsley. Use either the Icelandic or the Newfoundland fish for this
preparation.
1033—SOUFFLÉ DE MORUE
Finely pound one-quarter lb. of freshly poached and flaked _morue_, and
add thereto, little by little, two tablespoonfuls of hot and very thick
Béchamel sauce. When the paste is very smooth, season it; put into a
saucepan, heat it, and add the yolks of three eggs, and four whites
beaten to a stiff froth.
Put the whole into a buttered soufflé-saucepan, and cook after the
manner of an ordinary soufflé. Take either Icelandic or Newfoundland
_morue_ for this dish.
1034—CHAR (Ombre-Chevalier)
The char is a fish of the salmon family, which is culinarily treated in
exactly the same way as the trout. When it is large, the recipes given
for salmon trout may be adapted to it, but it is mostly used small—that
is to say, from five inches to ten inches long. The fishing of char is
restricted chiefly to lake countries, such as Scotland and Switzerland,
and it is only in season during two months of the year. Moreover, as
this fish loses much of its quality in transit, its scarcity on the
market will be easily understood. The lake of Zug, in Switzerland,
supplies the most famous specimens, which are called Rothel by the
people of the locality. The delicacy of the fish is remarkable, and in
this it may vie even with the best river trout.
The char of the Scotch lakes may be treated after the same recipes as
the Swiss specimens, but they are more often used in the preparation of
potted char, the recipe for which is as follows:—
1035—POTTED CHAR
Cook the chars in a fine _mirepoix_ with white wine, exactly after
the manner of trout. When the fish are cooked, leave them to cool
completely in their cooking-liquor. Drain them; skin them; separate
their fillets, and thoroughly bone them. Set the fillets in a special
earthenware pot; entirely cover them with clarified butter, and put
them in a moderate oven for one quarter of an hour.
Leave them to cool until the next day, and add sufficient clarified
butter to cover them with a layer one-third inch thick.
If Potted Char be left in the cool, it will keep for some considerable
time.
RED MULLETS (ROUGETS)
Red mullet, especially the Mediterranean rock kind, is one of the
greatest fish delicacies known; and the surname “Sea Woodcock,” which
gourmets sometimes give it, is quite justified, not only by its
quality, but by the fact that, except for its gills, it is generally
left whole, and not even emptied.
It is best grilled.
1035a—GRILLED RED MULLET
Carefully wipe the mullet; _cisel_ it on either side to a depth in
proportion to the thickness of its flesh and at closer intervals the
thicker the latter is, in order to facilitate the cooking; season it
with salt and pepper; sprinkle it with a little oil and a few drops of
lemon juice; spread a few slices of lemon and a few parsley stalks upon
and beneath it; and let it _marinade_ for an hour or two, turning it
over frequently the while.
Twenty minutes before serving, set the red mullet on a double fish
grill, and cook it over a rather fierce fire, sprinkling it often the
while with its _marinade_. Dish and serve it as soon as it is ready,
and serve a little half-melted maître-d’hôtel butter separately.
1035b—ROUGET A LA BORDELAISE
Grill or _sauté_ the red mullet. At the same time serve a sauce
Bordelaise Bonnefoy (No. 67).
1035c—ROUGET AU FENOUIL
_Cisel_ and _marinade_ the red mullet as directed under No. 1035a,
and add a certain quantity of chopped fennel to the aromatics. Twenty
minutes before serving, add two oz. of roughly-chopped raw pork fat and
a little parsley to the _marinade_; wrap the red mullets in strong,
oiled paper, together with its _marinade_, grill it gently, and serve
it as it stands.
1035d—ROUGET A LA NIÇOISE
Grill it as directed above, and serve it with the garnish given under
“Sole à la Niçoise.”
1035e—ROUGET EN PAPILLOTE
Grill and wrap it in strong, oiled paper between two layers of
somewhat thick Duxelle sauce. When about to serve, put the _papillote_
for five minutes in the oven, that it may be _souffléd_.
1036—WHITEBAIT
Thames whitebait, which has many points in common with the “Nonat” of
the Mediterranean, is one of the riddles of ichthyology; for, while it
is generally admitted that it is the fry of one of the many species of
fish, its real parentage is quite unknown.
At dinners in London it usually stands as a second fish-course, and,
fried after the customary manner, it constitutes a dish the delicacy
of which is incomparable. Whitebait, like the nonat, are extremely
fragile, and ought to be cooked as soon as they are caught. They are
always served fried, and the frying-medium used in their preparation
should be fresh, abundant, and just smoking when the fish are plunged
into it. Previous to this operation, however, the whitebait ought to be
thoroughly dredged with flour and placed in a special sieve or frying
basket, either of which should be well shaken, in order to rid the fish
of any superfluous flour.
They are then plunged into the smoking frying-medium, in small
quantities at a time, and one minute’s stay therein suffices to render
them sufficiently crisp.
Draining is the next operation, effected upon a spread piece of linen,
that the fish may be easily seasoned with table-salt and cayenne,
mixed. This done, the whitebait are dished upon a napkin and sent to
the table with very green, fried parsley.
VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FISH
1037—MATELOTE AU VIN ROUGE
The fish used for the Matelote are eel, carp, tench, bream, perch, &c.
It may be prepared from one or many kinds of fish.
Put the fish, cut into sections, into a sautépan. For two lbs. of it,
add one minced onion, one faggot, two cloves of garlic, one pint of red
wine, a pinch of salt, and another of pepper or four peppercorns.
Set to boil; add three tablespoonfuls of heated and burnt brandy; cover
the sautépan, and complete the cooking of the fish.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain the
cooking-liquor, reduce it by a third, and thicken it with _manied_
butter (consisting of one and one-half oz. of butter and one
tablespoonful of flour), cut into small pieces.
When the leason has been properly effected, pour the resulting sauce
over the pieces of fish; heat, and dish in a timbale.
1038—MATELOTE AU VIN BLANC
Prepare the fish as above, but use white wine instead of red, and burn
the brandy as before. When the pieces of fish are cooked, transfer them
to another saucepan with small onions, previously cooked in butter,
and small, cooked mushrooms. Strain the cooking-liquor, reduce it to a
little less than half, thicken it with fish velouté, and finish with
one oz. of butter.
Pour this sauce over the fish and the garnish; dish the whole in
a timbale or a deep dish, and surround with crayfish, cooked in
_court-bouillon_, and little crusts in the shape of hearts, fried in
butter.
1039—BOUILLABAISSE A LA MARSEILLAISE
The fish for Bouillabaisse are rascasse, chapon, dory, whiting, fiélas,
boudreuil, spiny lobster, red mullet, gurnet, &c.
Cut the larger fish into slices; leave the smaller ones whole, and
with the exception of the whiting and the red mullet, which cook more
speedily than the others, put them all into a saucepan.
For two lbs. of fish, add one small onion, the chopped white of one
leek, one small, peeled, pressed and chopped tomato, two crushed
cloves of garlic, a large pinch of _concassed_ parsley, a pinch of
powdered saffron, a bit of bay, a little savory and fennel, and two
tablespoonfuls of oil.
Moisten the fish with just enough cold water to cover it, and season
with one-third oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per quart of water.
Set to boil, and cook over a brisk fire. At the end of eight minutes
add the pieces of whiting and red mullet, and leave to cook for a
further seven minutes.
Pour the liquor of the bouillabaisse over some slices of household
bread lying on the bottom of a deep dish; set the fish on another dish
with the sections of spiny lobster all round, and serve.
1040—QUENELLES DE BROCHET A LA LYONNAISE
Pound separately one lb. of the meat of pike, cleared of all skin and
bones, and one lb. of the fat of kidney of beef, very dry, cleaned, and
cut into small pieces. If desired, half of the weight of the fat of
kidney of beef may be replaced by one-half lb. of beef marrow.
Put the pounded meat of the pike and the kidney fat on separate plates.
Now pound one lb. of frangipan Panada (No. 192) and add thereto, little
by little, the white of four little eggs. Put the pike meat and the fat
back into the mortar, and finely pound the whole until a fine, smooth
paste is obtained. Rub the latter through a sieve; put the resulting
purée into a basin, and work it well with a wooden spoon in order to
smooth it.
With this forcemeat mould some quenelles with a spoon, and poach them
in salted water.
If these quenelles are to be served with an ordinary fish sauce, put
them into it as soon as they are poached and drained, and simmer them
in it for ten minutes that they may swell.
If the sauce intended for them is to be thickened with egg-yolks,
and buttered at the last moment, put them into a saucepan with a few
tablespoonfuls of _fumet_, and simmer them as directed in the case of
an ordinary fish sauce, taking care to keep the saucepan well covered
that the concentrated steam may assist the swelling of the quenelles.
In this case they are added to the sauce at the last moment.
N.B.—Slices of truffle may always be added to the sauce. The quenelles
are dished either in a silver timbale, in a shallow timbale-crust, or
in a fine vol-au-vent crust, in accordance with the arrangement of the
menu.
1041—FISH CAKES
Fish cakes or balls, which are greatly appreciated in both England and
America, are made from any boiled fish. Salted cod, however, is best
suited to their preparation, and is therefore used much more often than
other kinds of fish.
Flake one lb. of cooked cod, and clear it of all skin and bones;
pound it with one-half lb. of freshly-cooked, floury potatoes, two
tablespoonfuls of reduced Béchamel sauce, and two whole eggs. Season
with salt and pepper. When the paste has been well beaten and is
smooth, take it out of the mortar and divide it into portions weighing
about two oz. Roll these portions into balls upon a flour-dusted
mixing-board, flatten them out to the shape of thick quoits, and treat
them _à l’anglaise_.
Fry them at the last moment in very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin
with fried parsley all round.
1042—WATERZOI
In order to prepare Waterzoi, it is best, when possible, to have live
fish at one’s disposal, not only because these are better able to
resist the cooking process, but also owing to the fact that they are
richer in gelatine in the live state.
The fish more generally used are the eel, the perch, the tench, the
carp, the pike, &c.
After having scaled and emptied them, trim them and cut off their heads
and tails. Cut the fish into sections; moisten these with just enough
cold water to cover them; add a piece of butter, sufficient parsley
roots or stalks to produce a decided taste, a few peppercorns, and some
salt.
Set to cook on a brisk fire, and take care that the cooking-liquor be
reduced and sufficiently thickened when the fish are cooked.
Serve in a timbale or on a dish, and send some slices of bread and
butter to the table at the same time.
CHAPTER XV
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES
The difference between Relevés and Entrées needs only to be examined
very superficially in order for it to be seen how entirely the
classification hangs on the question of bulk. Indeed, with very few
exceptions, the same alimentary products—butcher’s meat, fish, poultry,
and game—may be used with perfect propriety in the preparation of
either Relevés or Entrées. And if the mode of preparation and the
nature of the garnishing ingredients are sometimes dissimilar, it is
owing to that difference in bulk referred to above, on account of which
the Relevés, being more voluminous, are usually braised, _poëled_,
poached, or roasted; while the Entrées, consisting of smaller pieces,
are chiefly _sautéd_, poached, or grilled.
In the menus of old-fashioned dinners à la Française, the line of
demarcation between Relevés and Entrées was far more clearly defined,
the latter being generally twice, if not thrice, as numerous as the
former. The first service of a dinner for twenty people, for instance,
comprised eight or twelve Entrées and four soups, all of which were
set on the dining-table before the admission of the diners. As soon
as the soups were served, the Relevés, to the number of four, two of
which consisted of fish, took the place of the soups on the table; they
_relieved_ the soups; hence their name, which now, of course, is quite
meaningless.
The Russian method of serving greatly simplified the practice just
described. Nowadays a dinner rarely consists of more than two
soups, two Relevés (one of which is fish), and two or three Entrées
for the first service. Very often the fish Relevé, instead of
being a large piece of fish, only consists of fillets of sole, of
chicken-turbots, &c., or timbales, which are real entrées; while the
Relevés (consisting of large pieces of butcher’s meat or game), instead
of being served as common sense would dictate, _i.e._, after the fish
Relevé, when the diner’s appetite is still keen, are placed, according
to English custom, after the Entrées.
Thus, as the two above examples show, the parts played by the Relevés
and Entrées respectively are very far from being clearly defined; and
I therefore resolved to treat of them both in the same chapter, and
to append a few grills (usually accompanied by various sauces and
garnishes), which are really only luncheon-roasts. The indications
given concerning the class to which the recipes belong will suffice to
avoid confusion.
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT
BEEF
1043—FILLET OF BEEF (Relevé)
Fillet of beef for a Relevé may consist either of the whole piece,
trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large piece cut from the
whole, and treated after one of the methods suited to the whole fillet.
The fillet may be braised, _poëled_, or roasted; but the last two modes
of preparation suit it best, as it is generally preferred underdone and
somewhat red towards the centre.
The garnishes for a Relevé of fillet of beef are as numerous as they
are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to fillet of beef but
to all Relevés of butcher’s meat, I give them here in preference, since
fillet of beef may be considered the choicest of Relevés.
1044—FILETS DE BŒUF ANDALOUSE
Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard it with
thin strips of bacon, and _poële_ or roast it. Glaze it at the last
moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with:—(1) Some grilled
half-capsicums, filled with rice à la grecque (No. 2253); (2) roundels
of egg-plant, two inches in diameter and one inch thick, hollowed out
to form cases, fried in oil, and garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes
tossed in oil. Arrange the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately
round the fillet, and place a grilled _chipolata_ sausage between each.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—The gravy taken from the _poëling_-stock,
strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.
1045—FILET DE BŒUF BOUQUETIERE
Having larded the fillet and _poëled_ or roasted it, set it on a long
dish and surround it with:—(1) Small heaps of carrots and turnips,
turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and cooked in consommé;
(2) small heaps of little potatoes turned to the shape of olives and
cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of peas and of French beans, cut into
lozenges and cohered with butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.
Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary their colours
and throw them into relief.
Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared it of
all grease and strained it.
1046—FILET DE BŒUF CAMARGO
Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker side
(Fr. chaîne), and open the meat lengthwise from the same side. Withdraw
the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to leave a wall of meat
only one-half inch thick all round. Finely chop the withdrawn meat
and combine with it, per lb., little by little, from four to five
tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz. of fresh foie gras. Season with
salt and pepper, rectify the consistence of the paste, and add thereto,
per lb., two oz. of chopped truffles.
Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning it to its
original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed pieces of truffle
one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck into the meat aslant. In
order to facilitate this operation, bore the meat, before the insertion
of the pieces of truffles, by means of a small knife.
Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it laterally,
leaving a space of one inch between each strand.
_Poële_ the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat inside
be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by thrusting a
braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet, as soon as the
meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch. If the needle withdraws
clean, the fillet is ready.
Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed the slices
of bacon; dish it, and surround it with the following garnish:—Small
tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles with cream; a slice of
foie gras stamped out with a round cutter and tossed in butter, upon
the noodles; and a fine slice of truffle on the foie gras.
_Sauce to be sent to the table separately._—The reduced _poëling_-liquor
of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added to a Périgueux sauce.
1047—FILET DE BŒUF CHÂTELAINE
Lard the fillet, _poële_ it, and glaze it just before dishing
up. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish:—(1) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with thick
Soubise; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the _poëling_-liquor;
(3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes, cooked in butter at the
last moment.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—The reduced _poëling_-liquor of the
fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.
1048—FILET DE BŒUF CLAMART
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Little tartlet-crusts
garnished with peas, prepared à la Française (No. 2193), combined with
the _ciseled_ lettuce used in their cooking-process, and cohered with
butter; (2) small quoits of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228). Arrange the
tartlet-crusts and the quoits alternately.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—The gravy slightly thickened.
1049—FILET DE BŒUF DAUPHINE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with a garnish of potato _croquettes_ à la Dauphine, moulded to the
shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Pale half-glaze with Madeira.
1050—FILET DE BŒUF DUBARRY
Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of cauliflower
moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay sauce, besprinkled
with grated cheese, and put in the oven for the _gratin_ to form just
in time for the dishing up.
Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.
1051—FILET DE BŒUF DUCHESSE
Either roast or _poële_ the larded fillet. If it be _poëled_, glaze it
at the last moment.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes à la Duchesse (the
shape of which may be varied according to fancy), lightly browned and
coloured in the oven for a few minutes before the dishing.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Half-glaze with Madeira.
1052—FILET DE BŒUF FINANCIÈRE
_Poële_ the larded fillet.
Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.
Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary
forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) cocks’
combs and kidneys; (4) turned and _blanched_ olives. Each garnish
should be placed on the dish in distinct heaps.
Cover the garnish with a little financière sauce, and send the same
sauce separately.
1053—FILET DE BŒUF GASTRONOME
Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon, into the
fillet, and set the latter to _marinade_ for four or five hours in
one-quarter pint of Madeira.
This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon, and
braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the slices of
bacon; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.
Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) large and thick slices of
truffle, cooked in a fine _mirepoix_ with champagne; (2) fine chestnuts
cooked in consommé and glazed; (3) fine cocks’ kidneys, rolled in
pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles tossed in butter. These different
garnishes should be arranged in alternate heaps, and connected by means
of medium-sized truffles cooked in Madeira.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Half-glaze combined with the
cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and reduced to
two-thirds.
1054—FILET DE BŒUF GODARD
Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted tongue, and
_poële_ it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving; set it on a long
dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of
ordinary forcemeat with chopped mushrooms and truffles added thereto,
moulded by means of a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing
up; (2) turned and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb
sweet-breads; (4) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned like
olives.
Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in heaps, with
sauce; finish the dish with four oval quenelles decked with tongue and
truffle, and place one of these at either end and side of the dish.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—A Godard sauce combined with the
cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and reduced.
1055—FILET DE BŒUF HONGROISE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish consisting of
medium-sized onions, cooked in white consommé, and glazed in butter at
the last minute.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Thin Soubise with paprika.
1056—FILET DE BŒUF JAPONAISE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with a garnish consisting of (1) small _croustades_ cooked in grooved
brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese artichokes cohered by means
of velouté; (2) potato _croquettes_ moulded to the shape of eggs
and fried just before dishing up. Arrange the _croustades_ and the
_croquettes_ alternately.
Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all grease, to
the table separately.
1057—FILET DE BŒUF JARDINIÈRE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following garnishes,
which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such wise as to alternate
their colours:—Carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved
spoon-cutter and cooked separately in consommé; peas, French beans in
lozenge-form and small flageolets, each of which vegetables should be
cooked in a manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered
with butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white
and of tight growth.
Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some clear gravy,
to the table, separately.
1058—FILET DE BŒUF LORETTE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround
it with a garnish as follows:—(1) A small pyramid of Lorette
potatoes (No. 2226) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine heaps of
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.
Send some _tomatéd_ half-glaze separately.
1059—FILET DE BŒUF MACÉDOINE
Prepare the fillet as directed under “Filet de Bœuf Jardinière.” Set it
on a long dish and surround it with a _Macédoine_ garnish. The latter
comprises the same ingredients as the “_Jardinière_”; but, instead of
their being heaped separately, they are mixed together and cohered by
means of butter.
1060—FILET DE BŒUF AU MADÈRE ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Lard and _poële_ the fillet.
Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mushroom-heads,
turned and grooved.
Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the
_poëling_-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.
1061—FILET DE BŒUF MODERNE
Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with garnish as follows:—On either side of the fillet lay a row of
small “chartreuses,” made in small, hexagonal moulds.
To make these “chartreuses,” butter the moulds and deck the bottom
of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost entirely cover
it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various vegetables, such as
carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables
should be cooked as its nature requires.
Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and spread over the
whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.
Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be well
pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and put the
chartreuses in a _bain-marie_ ten minutes before dishing the fillet.
At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces, arranging
them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in half-circles.
Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round quenelles,
decorated with salted tongue and poached in time to be ready for the
dishing of the meat.
Send to the table, separately, the _poëling_-liquor of the fillet,
cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with arrowroot.
1062—FILET DE BŒUF MONTMORENCY
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.
Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the
_poëling_-liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the sauce)
three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly; two tablespoonfuls of
finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first, and then
chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to soak in tepid
water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and drained just before being
added to the sauce.
1063—FILET DE BŒUF NIVERNAISE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with garnish as follows:—(1) Heaps of small carrots, shaped like
elongated olives, cooked in white consommé and a little butter and
sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (reduced to the consistence
of syrup), with the view of glazing them.
Send the _poëling_-liquor (cleared of all grease and strained) to the
table separately.
1064—FILET DE BŒUF ORIENTALE
Roast the fillet “plain,” _i.e._, without previously larding it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish,
taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (1) timbales of rice
à la grecque (No. 2253) moulded in buttered _dariole-moulds_, each
timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-tomato, seasoned and tossed
in butter; (2) _croquettes_ of sweet potatoes, moulded to the shape of
corks, and fried just before dishing up.
Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato sauce.
1065—FILET DE BŒUF PERIGOURDINE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and surround
it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in Madeira and fine
_mirepoix_, and glazed. Send a Périgueux sauce separately.
1066—FILET DE BŒUF PETIT DUC
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the
following garnish:—(1) crisp, small patties of puff paste garnished
with asparagus-heads cohered by means of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized
artichoke-bottoms, prepared in the usual way, and garnished with slices
of truffle.
Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four oz. of butter
per one-half pint.
1067—FILET DE BŒUF PORTUGAISE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows:—
1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.
2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and
cooked in butter just before dishing up.
Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.
1068—FILET DE BŒUF PROVENÇALE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with the following, alternated:—Tomatoes and mushrooms stuffed à la
Provençale (Nos. 2266 and 2075).
Send a _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce, separately.
1069—FILET DE BŒUF RÉGENCE
_Marinade_ the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in advance;
cover it with a _Matignon_ (No. 227); envelop the fillet and the
_Matignon_ in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise with its
_marinade_.
A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon and the
_Matignon_, and glaze the fillet.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish,
which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are left plain,
should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly coated with
sauce:—(1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, combined with chopped
tongue, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last
minute; (2) collops of foie gras tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks’
combs; (4) very white, cooked mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like
large olives.
Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all
grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-glaze
sauce.
1070—FILET DE BŒUF RENAISSANCE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising carrots and
turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved spoon-cutter,
cooked in consommé and glazed; very green peas; small French beans;
small faggots of asparagus-heads; portions of cauliflowers, and small
potatoes cooked in butter.
Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules, and it
may consist of all the available early-season vegetables, small
artichoke-bottoms included.
Send a clear gravy separately.
1071—FILET DE BŒUF RICHELIEU
Lard the fillet, and either _poële_ or roast it.
If it be _poëled_, glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and
surround it with the following garnish, which should be arranged in
distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its colouring:—(1) Small
tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed; (2) small or
half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed; (3) potatoes, the size of
pigeons’ eggs, cooked in butter and prepared just in time for the
dishing up.
Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly thickened,
separately.
1072—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-FLORENTIN
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish:—(1) At either end, a heap of _cèpes_, prepared à la Bordelaise
at the last minute; (2) _croquettes_ of potatoes à la Saint-Florentin,
on either side. These _croquettes_ are prepared from the same
potato-paste as “Pommes Duchesse,” but in this case the paste receives
a copious addition of chopped tongue. Mould them to the shape of
lozenges, and treat them _à l’anglaise_, using for the purpose very
fine vermicelli instead of bread-crumbs.
Fry the _croquettes_ just before dishing up.
Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept somewhat
light.
1073—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-GERMAIN
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish:—(1) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed carrots,
cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small potatoes, cooked
in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a row of small timbales
of very green peas purée (No. 2196) on either side of the fillet.
1074—FILET DE BŒUF TALLEYRAND
Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnishing of the
fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long and one-quarter
inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them to be easily stuck into the
meat.
To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and in these set
the bits of truffle. _Marinade_ the fillet for three hours in Madeira;
wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and set it to braise with its
_marinade_.
This done, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it, and set it on a long
dish. Send the following garnish separately:—Poached macaroni, cut
into pieces one and one-half inches long, and combined per lb. with
three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of
butter, three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, and three oz. of cooked
foie gras, cut into large dice.
As an adjunct, send a Périgueux sauce with a fine _julienne_ of
truffles instead of the latter chopped.
1075—FILET DE BŒUF FROID (Relevé)
Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold Relevé.
For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat underdone
towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and coat it with
half-melted jelly.
Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion of bread or
carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly when the garnish is
added.
Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice, it is
well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its base;
leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this means, when
the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be found to be neatly
trimmed.
Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable garnish.
The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and be left to
cool naturally.
When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of jelly, or set
them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to alternate their
shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.
Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped and very
clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border consisting of bits
of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped, &c.) very regularly cut.
I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject. What
has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied and numerous
are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef, the minute
details of which may, with advantage, be left to the ingenuity of the
operator.
FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTRÉES
1076—CHÂTEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS
By _fillet_ steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut laterally
from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.
They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from
six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in respect of their weight,
and might well be called the “kernels” of the fillet of beef. The usual
thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they
should be cut to a nice, round shape. With the object of preserving
their shape, they may be tied round with string.
Châteaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of beef, and
its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more than thrice as
much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.
As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special roast for
luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, _i.e._, _sautéd_, it is
more often served as a Relevé.
The same garnishes suit fillet, Châteaubriands, and tournedos, the only
necessary modifications being in respect of size and arrangement, which
should be subject to the size of the piece of meat.
The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which supply
the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the three different
cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after one of the
following recipes, the garnish should be made a little stronger, and
its constituents modified in the dishing, neither of which changes need
in any way alter the formula.
The same holds with regard to a Châteaubriand. Thus, for example, if
it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Châteaubriand, after
the recipe “Tournedos à l’Algérienne,” the number of _croquettes_ and
tomatoes should be half as much again, and they should be arranged
alternately round the meat, instead of the latter being placed on the
_croquettes_, as in the case of the tournedos.
If the fillets are to be treated “à l’Alsacienne,” after the recipe for
tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a timbale instead of in
tartlet-crusts, &c.
All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of
arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without
necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.
It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes given under
fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to Châteaubriands, fillet
steak, and tournedos, provided they be made in proportion to the size
of the different pieces. I see no need, therefore, to repeat these
vegetable recipes in so far as they relate to the various cuts of
fillet of beef.
It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well as for
tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain vegetable garnishes
may be used, the details of which I prefer to omit for fear of unduly
lengthening this work.
Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served with
garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with gravy,
chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purées, &c., and,
generally, with all the vegetable preparations given in Chapter XVII.
=Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to Entrées of
Butcher’s Meat, Garnished with Vegetables=
The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule, suited to
entrées garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy is better.
The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should receive
an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should be slightly
acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice. This glaze ought to
be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.
Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans, _macédoines_,
&c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces, and this is owing
either to their natural moisture or to their leason. As a result of
this action the preparation has an unsightly appearance when served
upon the diner’s plate.
With Châteaubriand sauce (No. 71) or buttered meat-glaze this objection
does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not decompose, but
combines admirably with the garnish, and lends the latter a certain
noticeable mellowness.
I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative sauces
of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively used with
such preparations garnished with truffles, cock’s combs and kidneys,
quenelles and mushrooms, as “la Financière,” “la Godard,” &c.
TOURNEDOS
1077—TOURNEDOS ALGÉRIENNE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and set a
_croquette_ of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon each.
Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned half-tomatoes,
stewed in oil.
1078—TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE
Season and grill the tournedos.
There should have been prepared in advance as many small
tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.
Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut, and set
on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with an even cutter.
Arrange them in the form of a crown on a dish, and set a tournedos upon
each tartlet.
1079—TOURNEDOS ARLÉSIENNE
Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.
When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and surround them
with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes, alternating the
two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried onions on the tournedos.
1080—TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished by means of
maize with cream.
Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and tossed in
butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also tossed in butter,
on each roundel of tomato.
Accompanying sauce: a Châteaubriand (No. 71).
1081—TOURNEDOS BÉARNAISE
Season the tournedos, and grill them.
Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in clarified
butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with meat-glaze, and
surround them with a thread of Béarnaise sauce (No. 62).
In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in butter and
kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of chopped parsley.
N.B.—The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and the Béarnaise
sauce served separately.
1082—TOURNEDOS BELLE-HÉLÈNE
Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped like quoits,
as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish; place a _croquette_
on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle on each
_croquette_.
1083—TOURNEDOS BERCY
Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-glaze.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted “Beurre à la
Bercy” (No. 139) separately.
1084—TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE
Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.
Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a Bordelaise
sauce (No. 32) separately.
1085—TOURNEDOS BRABANÇONNE
Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.
Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts, stewed in
butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze a few moments
before dishing.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on the prepared
tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border of small “pommes de
terre fondantes” (No. 2214).
1086—TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) peeled,
pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter; these should be in
the proportion of one tablespoonful per tartlet; (3) rings of onion,
fried in oil as for “Tournedos à l’Arlésienne”; (4) a garnish of one
tablespoonful of small French beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown on fried crusts.
Place a tartlet, garnished with a _fondue_ of tomatoes, on each
tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of onion,
and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the dish or
separately in a timbale.
1087—TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON
Prepare (1) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are tournedos;
(2) a Soubise purée, combined with chopped truffles, and well buttered.
A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the
artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a fierce
oven.
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set them on the
artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a circle round the dish.
1088—TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown; drain the butter from the sautépan;
swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-liquor, and add thereto
a proportional quantity of mushroom sauce. Set to boil for a few
minutes, and pour the sauce, with the mushrooms, in the midst of the
circle of tournedos.
1089—TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown.
Drain the butter away; swill the sautépan with white wine, and add to
this a quantity of Chasseur sauce, which should be in proportion to the
number of tournedos.
Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over the tournedos.
1090—TOURNEDOS CHORON
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Set them on crusts fried in butter; round the top of each lay a thread
of Choron sauce (No. 64), and in the middle of each set a medium-sized
artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or asparagus-heads cohered with
butter.
All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in butter, or
heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.
N.B.—The sauce may be served separately.
1091—TOURNEDOS COLIGNY
1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of
“Duchesse potatoes” (No. 221), make as many small _galettes_ as there
are tournedos, and of the same size as the latter.
Place them on a tray; _gild_ them, and set them to brown in the oven a
few minutes before the tournedos are ready.
2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil
them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of
Provençale sauce.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form
of a crown, on the _galettes_ of potato, and cover them with the
_paysanne_ of chow-chow.
1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of
parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send
separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. 41).
1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in
the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and
fried in butter.
On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller
than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and
tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice
of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of
asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps
round the tournedos.
Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts)
cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly sprinkled
with chopped parsley.
1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE
Prepare (1) as many _subrics_ of shredded spinach as there are
tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them
at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round _croquettes_ of
semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes
before the tournedos are ready.
Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the
spinach _subrics_. The _croquettes_ of semolina may be arranged either
in the middle or all round.
1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE
Season the tournedos, and _sauté_ them. Set them on crusts fried in
butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut
into large dice and tossed in butter.
The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the
noodles all round, or vice versâ.
1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE
Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both
cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light
“Duchesse-potatoes” paste.
With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped _croquettes_ as
there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.
Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal
quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared
_croquettes_, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached
marrow and one slice of truffle.
Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed
lettuces.
1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV
Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.
Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and
on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes
(of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.
N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may
be served separately.
1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each tournedos set a crown of
truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with
braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces.
1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ
Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos;
(2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish
of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with
broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos.
1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES
Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon
them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos.
Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them.
Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they
may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach
prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them
to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready.
Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion.
1101—TOURNEDOS LILI
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre
Anna” (No. 2203), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same
size as the tournedos.
On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel
of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of
truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce.
1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them,
in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish
consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles,
and blanched olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared
with truffle essence.
1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE
For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans.
For these timbales the purée of haricot beans must be cohered per lb.
with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into
well-buttered _dariole-moulds_, and set these to poach fifteen minutes
in advance.
(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise.
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround
them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two
garnishes.
1104—TOURNEDOS MARÉCHALE
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried
crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle,
and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with
butter.
1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick,
fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed
in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag,
with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.
1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms
fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter;
and olive-shaped truffles.
When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a _cocotte_ with the garnish
above described.
Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce
the whole, strain it into the _cocotte_, and put the latter in the
front of the oven for a minute or two.
1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA
Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts
of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large
slice of poached marrow.
Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very
stiff Béarnaise sauce.
1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE
Put into an earthenware _cocotte_ the following vegetables, which
should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or
“Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new
onions, and very fresh peas.
All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.
Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the
vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam
inside the _cocotte_, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well
closed.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the
_cocotte_ at the last moment.
1109—TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE
Prepare (1) a _fondue_ of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked in
butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one tablespoonful per
mushroom; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms as there are tournedos,
while the latter are being fried; (3) some grilled or fried capsicums
in the proportion of half a one per tournedos.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal
quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with the _fondue_ of
tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or fried capsicums.
1110—TOURNEDOS MIKADO
Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes—“Mikados,” as they are
called—and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with the object of
expressing all their juice and seeds; season them inside, and grill
them so that they may be ready at the same time as the tournedos.
Season the latter and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-tomato, and
garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese artichokes tossed in
butter.
1111—TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU
Grill the tournedos.
Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing the former
after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with a crown of blanched
tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive in the middle of each
tournedos.
Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow
two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos.
1112—TOURNEDOS MIREILLE
For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (1) five _croustades_ from the
preparation used for “pommes Duchesse.” To make these _croustades_,
fill some buttered _dariole-moulds_ with the preparation referred to,
taking care to press it snugly into them. Dip the moulds into tepid
water, turn out, treat the mouldings _à l’anglaise_, fry them, hollow
out their centres, and keep them hot.
(2) A _fondue_ of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped
tablespoonful per _croustade_.
(3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner as the
_croustades_, and kept hot until required for dishing.
Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as soon as they
are ready.
Surround them with timbales of rice, and the _croustades_ garnished
with the fondue, the two garnishes to be alternated.
1113—TOURNEDOS MIRETTE
Prepare as many small timbales of “pommes Mirette” (No. 2234) as there
are tournedos.
Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops
of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few minutes before the
tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a
crown, and set a timbale of pommes Mirette upon each.
Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little meat-glaze,
finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce over the tournedos.
1114—TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE
Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.
Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and either
surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter to the table
separately.
1115—TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY
Season the tournedos and fry them in butter.
Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. 2138), cooked in a
tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of reduced Soubise,
made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, and put a
fine slice of truffle in the centre of the rosette.
1116—TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a
garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the proportion of
one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts.
On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-heads, with a
slice of truffle in the middle.
1117—TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES
Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown; in the centre arrange a heap of
morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately with chopped
parsley.
1118—TOURNEDOS A LA NIÇOISE
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting of one
half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed
in butter, together with a little crushed garlic and chopped tarragon.
Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with butter, and
other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter, alternating the two
garnishes.
1119—TOURNEDOS NINON
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of “pommes
Anna,” stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of the same size as the
tournedos. On each of the latter set a small patty, garnished with
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter and combined with a fine and short
_julienne_ of truffles.
1120—TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of potatoes, cut
into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised by means of an
oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes should be cooked in butter and
kept very soft.
Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley.
1121—TOURNEDOS PERSANE
Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded to the shape
of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-tomatoes as there are
tournedos. Also have some fried slices of banana ready, and allow three
for each tournedos.
Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, on
the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a stuffed and braised
capsicum.
In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana in a nice
heap. Send separately to the table a Châteaubriand sauce, combined with
the reduced braising-liquor of the capsicums.
1122—TOURNEDOS PERUVIENNE
Prepare, after the manner described below, as many oxalis roots as
there are tournedos.
Peel the oxalis roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in order to
make them stand upright, and hollow them out to form little cases.
Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation, and add it
to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed mushrooms.
Fill the oxalis cases with this preparation, shaping it above their
edges after the manner of a dome; besprinkle with raspings and oil, and
put them in the oven in good time for them to be ready at the same time
as the tournedos.
Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and surround
them with the oxalis cases.
1123—TOURNEDOS PIÉMONTAISE
Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill them with
Rizotto à la Piémontaise, combined with white truffles cut into dice,
and keep them hot.
Fry the tournedos in clarified butter; dish them, in the form of a
crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute.
1124—TOURNEDOS PROVENÇALE
For ten tournedos, prepare (1) ten medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed with
duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and put in the oven in good
time; (2) ten half-tomatoes à la Provençale (No. 2266).
Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil; dish them, in
the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-tomato upon each, and
around them set the stuffed mushrooms.
1125—TOURNEDOS RACHEL
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on
fried crusts one-third inch thick.
On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished with a large
slice of poached marrow.
Send a Bordelaise sauce separately.
1126—TOURNEDOS ROSSINI
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown,
upon fried crusts.
On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little smaller
than the former; the slices should be seasoned, dredged, and fried in
butter.
On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle.
1127—TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLE
Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them; fry them in
butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-tomatoes.
Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze quickly.
In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and poached olive,
encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy fillet.
In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant roundels,
seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil, and kept very
crisp.
1128—TOURNEDOS SAINT MANDE
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a circle,
each on a little cushion of “pommes de terre Macaire,” moulded in
ordinary tartlet-moulds.
In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas cohered with
butter.
1129—TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE
Prepare a garnish of (1) hollowed, parboiled, and braised sections of
cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and _gratined_; (2) small tomatoes,
similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes of rice flavoured with
saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated _à l’anglaise_, and fried.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame the whole with
the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed tomatoes, laid alternately.
1130—TOURNEDOS SOUBISE
Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.
Serve a light Soubise purée separately.
1131—TOURNEDOS TIVOLI
For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms, and allow one
half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom.
Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon
fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, garnished with
a tossed half-tomato, and all round set some fine “pommes soufflées”
made in ribbon-form, of a round shape, and in the proportion of one
potato to each tournedos.
Send a Béarnaise sauce separately.
1132—TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE
For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce:—Gently cook one chopped
onion in butter; add two peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes,
salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and a little crushed garlic.
When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a few
tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five minutes.
Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, and
cover them with the prepared sauce.
1133—TOURNEDOS VALENÇAY
Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, each
on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and ham, fried just
before dishing up.
Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.
1134—TOURNEDOS VALENTINO
Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as the
tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are tournedos.
Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even and round cutter, and
parboil them until they are almost completely cooked. Hollow them out,
by means of a spoon, inside the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and
stuff them with a preparation of semolina with Parmesan.
Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a sautépan; add a little water,
butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their cooking-process.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each on a
stuffed case of turnip.
1135—TOURNEDOS VERT-PRÉ
Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted butter à la
Maître-d’Hôtel upon them.
Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and freshly-fried
straw potatoes.
1136—TOURNEDOS VICTORIA
Fry the tournedos in butter.
Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat croquette of
chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato tossed in butter.
1137—TOURNEDOS VILLARET
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a
sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet purée to garnish the
tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos.
Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets. On each
tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which should have been
filled with Châteaubriand sauce.
1138—TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on little
quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last moment.
On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue and truffle,
laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in the middle.
Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.
1139—TOURNEDOS VILLEMER
Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a fried,
hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise.
On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with meat-glaze.
1140—FILETS EN CHEVREUIL
For the “en chevreuil” treatment, the meat used is generally cut from
the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight of the pieces cut
should average about three oz. each.
After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them with very
thin strips of bacon, and _marinade_ them for a few hours in the raw
_marinade_ given under No. 169. When about to cook them, dry them
thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot oil, taking care that the
latter be smoking, and therefore hot enough to set the meat and to
cause its external moisture to evaporate.
The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purées and
highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being the
Poivrade and the Chasseur.
1141—SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Relevé)
Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock’s back reaching from the
haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the saddle in veal
and mutton. This piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,”
except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet
(Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If
this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing
the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine
on the upper fillet, in different places.
A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed
from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it
is cut laterally into pieces weighing from six to seven lbs. If it is
to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole.
When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept
underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however,
braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry.
All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin;
but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the
“Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected.
The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes.
1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill)
Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be
more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the
chine, and it is always grilled.
It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to
grills; but it is more often served plain.
1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé)
The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the
haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated
like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be
applied here.
If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if
intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter
case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view
of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous
process should be broken close to the point where they join the body of
the vertebræ, that they may be easily removed when the meat is being
carved.
The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is best
roasted.
Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted.
In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and cleared of all
the bones of the spinous process.
This piece should only be used after having been well hung, in order
that it may be as tender as possible.
1144—GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF
The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or the ribs
of beef, _i.e._, between two rib-bones. In order that its cooking may
be regular, it should not weigh more than from two to three lbs.
Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently tender.
They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served with any of
the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef.
1145—PIÈCE DE BŒUF BRAISÉE (Relevé)
The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling and
braising. Whatever be the use for which the meat is intended, the
weight of the pieces should not be more than six or eight lbs. at
the most, and they should be cut in the length rather than in the
thickness, that the cooking process may be facilitated.
All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to braised
pieces of beef.
Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used in its
cooking-process, by purées, green or dry vegetables, pastes, macaroni,
&c., &c.
1146—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA BOURGUIGNONNE
Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it for three hours in brandy and
red wine. Braise it after the manner described under No. 247; moisten
first with the wine of the _marinade_, and, when the latter is reduced,
with some veal gravy and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of
liquid, taking care that the whole moistening reaches the top of the
piece of meat. Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and
cook gently in the oven.
When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another saucepan,
and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four, according to their
size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon, cut into dice, blanched
and tossed in butter, and some small onions half-glazed with butter.
Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and its
garnish, and complete the cooking gently.
A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and glaze it in
the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended for the table; quickly
reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the piece of beef and
the garnish.
1147—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA CUILLER
Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind, in
selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of a case
when it has been cooked.
String it, and braise it after the manner described under No. 247,
almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor.
Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is still
somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure.
This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thickness of about
half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and the piece thus emptied
should constitute a square or oval case, in accordance with the shape
originally adopted.
Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten eggs and
fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan; sprinkle melted butter over
it with a brush, and put the case into a sufficiently hot oven to allow
of a crust forming round it.
Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of the piece; add
thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices of sweet-bread,
and mushrooms; put the whole into a sautépan with an Italian or a
half-glaze sauce, according to the requirements, and heat this garnish.
N.B.—This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned cookery, but
though it is still served occasionally, it is now looked upon more as
a curiosity than anything else. As a curiosity, therefore, I chose to
include it among these recipes; but it does not follow from this that I
in any way recommend it.
1148—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA FLAMANDE
Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under No. 247.
Meanwhile prepare the following garnish:—(1) Cut a nice firm cabbage
into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for seven or eight minutes.
Drain it; cool it; divide up the quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to
remove the hard ribs, and season with salt and pepper.
Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the corner of a
towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or simply put them
into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion stuck with a clove,
a faggot, six oz. of blanched breast of pork, and a little raw sausage
with garlic, which latter must be withdrawn after cooking has gone on
for one and one-half hours.
Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consommé to cover it; add a
few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and cook gently in
the oven for one and one-half hours.
(2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the shape of
olives; cook them in consommé, and reduce the latter for the purpose of
glazing.
(3) Prepare some potatoes _à l’anglaise_.
Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the former
being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped cabbages, the
glazed carrots and turnips, and the potatoes _à_ _l’anglaise_. The
last two vegetables should be set in alternate heaps with the cabbages
and the bacon (cut into small rectangles) and the sausage (cut into
roundels) should be distributed all round.
Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all grease,
reduced to a half-glaze and strained.
1149—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE CHAUDE
Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh more than
from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for larding ought to
have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes in advance, _marinaded_ in
a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and sprinkled with parsley just before
being used.
Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into a basin
with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy, and set it
to _marinade_ for four or five hours, taking care to turn it over from
time to time.
Then set it to braise after the manner described under No. 247; add its
_marinade_ to the moistening, and surround it with three small, boned,
blanched, and strung calf’s feet.
When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece of beef to
another saucepan, and surround it with the following garnish:—
1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated
olives, and already two-thirds cooked.
2. Small onions coloured in two-thirds lb. of butter.
3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.
Strain the braising-liquor over the whole, and complete the cooking
gently. When about to serve, either glaze the piece of beef, or dish it
plain; coat it lightly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter,
with the garnish, in a timbale.
1150—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE FROIDE
Bœuf à la mode is very rarely prepared specially for cold dishing, the
remains of a fine piece being generally used for that purpose. The
piece of meat must first be well trimmed. If the quantity of sauce do
not seem enough, or if the sauce itself seem too stiff, add a third of
its volume of aspic jelly to it.
For moulding, take a _terrine à pâté_, a mould, or other utensil
capable of holding the piece of meat, its garnish, and its sauce. Deck
the bottom of the utensil in any suitable way with the carrots and the
onions, and surround the piece with what remains of the latter and the
dice of calf’s foot.
Add the sauce, combined with the jelly, after having passed it through
a strainer, and put the whole in the cool for a few hours. Turn out
just before serving, and surround with very light, chopped jelly.
1151—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA NOAILLES
Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it in brandy and red wine.
This done, dry it thoroughly, and brown it evenly in butter all over;
moisten it with its _marinade_ and an equal quantity of veal gravy, and
set to cook gently.
When the meat is half-cooked, surround it with two lbs. of minced
onions, tossed in butter, and three oz. of rice. Complete the cooking
of the piece with onions and rice.
Now withdraw the piece of beef, and quickly rub the onions and the rice
through tammy. Reduce this Soubise with rice for a few moments.
Neatly trim the piece of beef; cut it into even slices; reconstruct it
on a dish, and between each slice pour a tablespoonful of Soubise purée.
Cover the reconstructed piece of beef with the remainder of the
Soubise; sprinkle the surface with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs
fried in butter, and some melted butter, and put the whole in the oven,
that the _gratin_ may form speedily.
1152—THE RUMP
=Rumpsteak and Beefsteak.=
The rump is that portion of the sirloin of beef which touches the top
of the haunch.
It may be braised, but it is more often grilled in slices from one inch
to one and one-half inches thick, which are called “rumpsteaks.”
With reference to this subject, it is as well to point out that the
term “Beefsteak,” so hackneyed in France, is scarcely used in England,
owing to its want of precision.
In France, beefsteak is either a cut from the fillet, the upper-fillet,
or the rump, according to the standing of the catering-house which
supplies it. But the nature of the piece cannot very well be mistaken,
inasmuch as the term beefsteak, which designates it, is generally
followed by other French words which reveal its origin, whereas in
England the term “Beefsteak” does not convey any particular meaning.
Rumpsteak is either grilled or _sautéd_, but whatever be the method of
cooking it, it is generally served plain.
All garnishes suited to fillets, however, may be served with it, as
also the various butters and sauces generally used with grills.
1153—LANGUE DE BŒUF
Ox tongue is served fresh or salted, but, even when it is to be served
fresh, it is all the better for having been put in salt a few days
previously. In order to salt it, put it into a special brine, as
explained under No. 172. When salted, it is cooked in boiling water;
when fresh, it is braised exactly after the manner of any other piece
of meat.
Ox tongue may be served with almost all the garnishes suited
to relevés of fillet of beef, but more particularly with the
following:—Bourgeoise; Flamande; Milanaise; Noodles or Macaroni with
cream, cheese or tomatoes; and all vegetable purées.
The most suitable sauces are:—Madeira sauce, Piquante sauce, Tomato
sauce, or their derivatives.
1154—LANGUE DE BŒUF CHOUCROÛTE
Braise the tongue as described under No. 247, and glaze it at the last
moment. Dish it, and send to the table separately (1) a timbale of
well-braised sauerkraut; (2) a timbale of potato purée; (3) a Madeira
sauce, combined with the braising-liquor of the tongue, cleared of all
grease, and reduced.
1155—LANGUE DE BŒUF BOURGEOISE
Braise the tongue in the usual way.
When it is two-thirds cooked, surround it with carrots fashioned to the
shape of olives and already two-thirds cooked, and small onions browned
in butter.
Complete the cooking gently, and for the rest of the operation, proceed
as for “Pièce de Bœuf à la Mode chaude.”
1156—LANGUE DE BŒUF AUX FÈVES
Tongue intended for this preparation should be put in salt a few days
in advance.
Boil it in the usual way and very gently; glaze it when about to serve,
and dish it. Send to the table separately (1) a timbale of very fresh,
skinned, broad beans, cooked in salted water with a spray of savory,
and cohered with butter at the last moment.
(2) A Madeira sauce.
1157—LANGUE DE BŒUF FLAMANDE
Braise the tongue, and glaze it at the last moment. Surround it with
the garnish “à la Flamande” given under the beef recipe of that name,
_i.e._, braised cabbages, glazed carrots and turnips, potatoes _à
l’anglaise_, rectangles of lean bacon, and roundels of sausage.
1158—LANGUES DE BŒUF FROIDES
Ox tongues intended for cold dishing should be kept in brine (No. 172)
for eight or ten days. When about to use them, put them to soak in cold
water for a few hours, and then cook them plainly in water for three
hours.
This done, withdraw them from their cooking-liquor; skin them; cover
them with buttered paper, and let them cool. The object of the paper is
to keep off the air, the tendency of which is to blacken the surface of
the meat.
When quite cool, coat the tongues with a glaze composed of one-half lb.
of gelatine dissolved in one pint of water; the latter is given a
scarlet tint by means of carmine and caramel.
Cold ox tongues are dished amidst aspic jelly dice and curled-leaf
parsley.
N.B.—The gelatine glaze described above will be found a great
improvement upon the coating of reddened gold-beaters’ skin.
OX TAILS.
Ox tails, sectioned or unsectioned, are usually braised, and only the
thicker half of the caudal appendage is ever used.
1159—QUEUE DE BŒUF A L’AUVERGNATE
Section the tail, and braise it in white wine, after recipe No. 247.
Prepare a garnish of rectangles of lean bacon, large chestnuts cooked
in consommé and glazed, and small onions cooked in butter.
Put the sections of the tail in an earthenware _cocotte_ with the
garnish.
1160—QUEUE DE BŒUF A LA CAVOUR
Section the tail, and braise it in a moistening two-thirds of which is
brown stock and one-third white wine. It is well for the moistening to
be somewhat abundant. Set to cook very gently, until the meat falls
from the bones, _i.e._, for a matter of about four and one-half or five
hours.
This done, dish the sections of the tail in a _cocotte_; add some
small, cooked mushrooms; clear the cooking-liquor of grease; reduce
it, and thicken it slightly with fecula. Strain this thickened
cooking-liquor over the sections of the tail and the mushrooms, and set
to boil very gently for ten minutes.
Serve thus in the _cocotte_ set on a dish, and send a timbale of
chestnut purée to the table at the same time.
1161—QUEUE DE BŒUF FARCIE
Choose a large ox tail, and bone it carefully without bursting it.
Lay it on a napkin, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of the
following ingredients:—Three-quarters lb. of very lean beef and
one-half lb. of chopped fat bacon, the two mixed with four oz. of
bread-crumbs soaked in milk and pressed; two whole eggs; three oz.
of truffle peel; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a very
little spice.
Sew up the tail, cover it with a piece of linen after the manner of a
galantine, and cook it gently for three hours in a very light stock
with vegetables as for boiled beef.
At the end of the three hours take it out of the linen; put it into a
sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished as for a braising;
add a little of the cooking-liquor of the tail, and complete the
cooking, basting often the while. Take care to baste more frequently
towards the close of the operation with the view of properly glazing
the meat.
When about to serve, dish it, after having removed all string, and
lightly coat the bottom of the dish with a sauce consisting of the
cooking-liquor, reduced and thickened with arrow-root. Send what
remains of the cooking-liquor in a sauceboat.
Serve separately either a purée, a garnish of braised vegetables, or
one of the sauces suited to pieces of beef.
1162—QUEUE DE BŒUF GRILLÉE
Cut the tail into sections twice the usual length, and cook these in a
stewpan for five hours with salted water and aromatics.
Drain the sections; dry them well; dip them in melted butter, and roll
them in very fine bread-crumbs. Sprinkle with melted butter, and set to
grill gently.
Grilled ox tail may be served with any vegetable purée. An ordinary
Soubise, or one prepared “à la Noailles,” as explained under the piece
of beef of that name, also suits very well.
In any case, the Soubise should be sufficiently thick.
Such sauces as à la Diable, Hachée, Piquante, Robert, Tomato,
Italienne, &c., are also suited to grilled ox tail.
N.B.—When the adjunct to grilled ox tail is a highly-seasoned sauce,
the sections should first be covered with a coat of mustard, then
dipped in melted butter, and finally rolled in bread-crumbs.
1163—QUEUE DE BŒUF EN HOCHEPOT
Cut the tail into sections, and put these into a stewpan of convenient
size, with two pig’s trotters, each of which must be cut into four or
five pieces, and one pig’s ear. Cover the whole with cold water; add
salt to the extent of one-third oz. per quart of the liquid; set to
boil; skim, and leave to cook gently for two hours.
This done, add one small cabbage, cut into quarters, parboiled and
cooled; ten small onions; five oz. of carrots, and the same weight of
turnips, cut to the shape of large, garlic cloves.
Set the whole to cook for a further two hours at least.
When about to serve, dish the sections of tail in a circle; put the
vegetable garnish in the centre, and surround the latter with the pig’s
ear cut into small, narrow strips, and ten grilled chipolata sausages.
Serve, separately, a timbale of potatoes cooked _à l’anglaise_.
=Various Preparations of Beef.=
1164—STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS
Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick; fry them in butter
on both sides, and set them to braise in short moistening, with a
sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions to constitute an
abundant garnish.
Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.
Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the braising-liquor
cleared of all grease and reduced.
1165—SALT BEEF
The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket, silver
side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for a more or less
lengthy period, according to their size.
To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots and
turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a sauceboat of
cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as follows:—
1166—SUET DUMPLING
Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of flour and
about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.
Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of about the same
consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste into portions weighing
about one oz., and roll them into small balls. Put the latter in a
sautépan containing some boiling beef cooking-liquor, which need not
have been cleared of grease, and let them poach for one and one-half
hours.
Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the meat with the
garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.
1167—COLD SALT BEEF
Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish for
luncheons.
It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken to preserve
all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a piece of cold salt
fat is sometimes added to that already existing around and in the meat,
in which case the extra quantity is fixed to the beef by means of a
_hatelet_.
1168—PRESSED BEEF
Salt beef also serves in the preparation of “Pressed Beef,” but, for
this purpose, the breast is generally used.
After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in accordance
with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into large pieces of
the same size as the moulds into which the meat is going to be pressed.
Lay the pieces of beef one on top of another in a square or rectangular
mould, and cover with a thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of
the mould. Now apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or
heavy weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.
When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully on all
sides, and glaze it, _i.e._, cover it entirely with a coating of rather
firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine and caramel to a
nice red-brown colour.
1169—STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING
Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch thick.
Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a little
chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin; line it with a firm
layer of suet-dough (No. 1166), and garnish the bottom and sides of the
basin with the slices of beef.
In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of mutton,
cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks. Moisten with just
sufficient water to cover.
Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used in
lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that it may adhere
thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater certainty, the
respective edges of the two layers of paste may be moistened.
This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged napkin, fastened
on by means of string tied round just beneath the lip of the utensil.
Cook for five hours, either in boiling water or in steam, and, after
having removed the napkin, serve the pudding as it stands.
1170—STEAK PUDDING
Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and
one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch of salt,
and one-quarter pint of water.
With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer one-quarter
inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould or pudding-basin.
Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as for steak
and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the pieces arranged in
layers; moisten with just enough water to cover, and close up the basin
with a layer of the same paste as that used for its lining.
Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting the
operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush; swathe
the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the latter firmly
with string.
Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer, and leave
it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut from the fillet,
and for four hours if cut from any other piece.
At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the saucepan
and remove the cloth.
Dish on a folded napkin.
1171—STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING
Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take only two lbs.
of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine oysters.
1172—DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVENÇALE
Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes weighing about
four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with a strip of bacon two inches
long by one-half inch wide, and put the cubes or pieces into a bowl
with salt, pepper, a very little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, and a glass of red wine. Leave to _marinade_ for two or three
hours, and toss the pieces, from time to time, in the _marinading_
liquor, in order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz.
of grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein twelve
small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two sticks of
celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots, and four cloves
of garlic. Add the _marinaded_ pieces of meat, which should have been
properly dried; fry the whole, meat and vegetables, for a further seven
or eight minutes, and moisten with the _marinade_ and two glasses more
of red wine.
Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into
square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made up of parsley
stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small piece of dry lemon
rind. Set to boil, completely close the stewpan, and leave to cook in a
moderate oven for six or seven hours.
When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease from the
gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the “daube” in the stewpan
itself.
1173—DAUBE A LA PROVENÇALE FROIDE
A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing; generally the
remains of one already served hot are used.
Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in a _terrine
à pâté_ with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon rind, which have
remained almost untouched.
Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer, pressing
lightly the while, and leave to cool.
When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and surround
with chopped aspic jelly.
1174—CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE
Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin, short
slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown them
quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss one and
one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they are well
browned.
Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into a
saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.
Drain the grease from the sautépan in which the slices were fried;
swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in preference);
add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with four oz. of brown
roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar;
set to boil, stirring the while, and strain this sauce over the slices
of beef and the onions.
Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half to three
hours.
N.B.—Carbonnades are served thus, mingled with the onions; but they may
also be dished in a timbale and covered with a Soubise consisting of
the onion and the sauce rubbed through tammy.
1175—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF
Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many different ways.
In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one rule, the
non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.
Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest possible
slices; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce or garnish,
which should effect its warming up. If the meat boil in the sauce or
garnish, it toughens, and this, above all, should be avoided when roast
meat is used.
Sauces suited to _Émincés_ are the Bordelaise, the Piquante, the
Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the Périgueux, and the Tomato.
1176—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF EN MIROTON
For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely, and toss
them in butter until they are evenly and well _gilded_.
Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook for a
moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white wine and
one-half pint of consommé; season with a pinch of pepper; boil, and
leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.
The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white wine is
reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is added, and the
whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.
Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.
A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the onions;
cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand the dish for a
moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly with chopped parsley.
N.B.—When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the slices should
be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer gently in the sauce
for as long as possible—an hour or more if necessary.
The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins, sprinkled with
raspings, and placed in the oven at the last moment for the _gratin_ to
form.
1177—GOULASH DE BŒUF A LA HONGROISE
Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weighing
about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate fire in four oz.
of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into large dice,
until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour. Season with
one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of paprika; add one
and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and quartered tomatoes, and
one-sixth pint of water.
Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.
This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-quarter lbs. of
quartered potatoes to the Goulash.
Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while, and do not
stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is entirely reduced.
When about to serve, dish the Goulash in a timbale.
1178—HACHIS DE BŒUF A L’AMÉRICAINE
Cut the meat into small cubes.
Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.
Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.
This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the meat
dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce
and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing to boil; dish in a
hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should
be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of
freshly-chopped parsley.
1179—HACHIS DE BŒUF PARMENTIER
Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.
The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked shell, and
remove the pulp from their insides by means of a spoon handle.
Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for “pommes de
terre Macaire.” Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp;
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the
preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar.
Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty
potato shells with the preparation.
Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of
it as the hash will absorb.
Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes
may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the
oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on
a napkin.
1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN
In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very
common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet
instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many
objections.
In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much
gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly,
since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the
former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been
properly effected. This supposed improvement on the old method is thus
seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are,
nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may
be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet
beforehand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe,
and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving.
Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish
is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable
as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.
By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone
or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the
operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as
hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which
really has no raison d’être in this case.
_The Preparation of Tripe._—Under the head of “beef tripe” are
understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch,
the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.
First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then
cut it into squares of two inches side.
For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts,
take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper
per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves;
three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks,
one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.
Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while
cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.
The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of
the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one,
and a little more in the case of a wide one.
In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.
_Treatment and Cooking-process._—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just
large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.
On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox
feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.
Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the
bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well
soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening.
Cover the whole with a kind of _galette_ of paste, consisting of flour
mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on
to the edges of the utensil.
Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste
is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.
In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.
_The Dishing and Serving._—After taking the tripe out of the oven,
remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the
onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of
tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to
distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such
wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.
When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of
all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It
is best, now, to put the latter in a _bain-marie_, for they must only
be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.
N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put
into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively
concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.
I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to
make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special
pots nor a baker’s oven.
(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices
of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of
paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a
contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a
kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.
The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were
available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but
also wanes regularly.
2. VEAL.
With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this
meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it
ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.
Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is
admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft,
and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect
cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so
famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce
veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought
it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business.
Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes
from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland;
and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to
those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the
continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the
English produce.
1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)
Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes
allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid
and succulent joint.
It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising
treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the
fine stock yielded by the operation.
Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush
with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other
side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the
under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in
such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on
either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank
should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has
been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of
bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and
the flank may not shift.
When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of
it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the
joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.
The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions
given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248).
The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or
other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c.,
demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and
should always be carried on with short moistening.
1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE
Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having
removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of
the latter, place a _chartreuse_ of vegetables.
Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor,
cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what
remains in a sauceboat.
_Chartreuses of Vegetables._—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds,
capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line
them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides
of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of
which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This
operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the
plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed
in alternate rows of varying colours.
When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the
vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the
object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position,
and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the
chartreuse is filled with its garnish.
This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with
a Macédoine of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream,
and cover with a layer of forcemeat.
Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and
take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on
either side of the saddle.
1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH
Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a
line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end,
pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.
Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the
fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.
Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a
slant.
In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of
Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets to their respective
places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them
appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful
of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.
This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce
with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a
large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.
Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all
grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.
1184—SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON
Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding
exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets
in a similar manner.
In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of
Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the
collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the
adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.
Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about
one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of
truffle purée.
Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose
of holding in the _soufflé_, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for
fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove
the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.
Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained,
to the table separately.
1185—SELLE DE VEAU A L’ORIENTALE
Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for
“Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au
currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce
between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce
already referred to.
Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor
and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.
1186—SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When
reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel
sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and
three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.
Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze
quickly.
Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained,
separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No. 2258).
1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF
Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of
fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.
Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one
quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.
N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of
asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.
1188—SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF
Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops
as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing
a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few
tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of
the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz.
of crayfish butter per quart.
Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve
the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained,
separately.
1189—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA
Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. 1183. Almost
completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of
macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with
a _julienne_ of truffles.
Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with
Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The
reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.
Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used,
and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all
grease and strained, to the table separately.
1190—SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE
Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and
surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either
side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval,
grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans
in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads cohered with butter; and some small
potatoes cooked in butter.
Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained,
separately.
1191—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND
Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz.
in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the
joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a
small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string
it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.
Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and
reduced.
Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a
garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and
one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan,
combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and
three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, per lb. of macaroni.
1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE
Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of
all cold-dish garnishes, such as Macédoines of vegetables cohered with
jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously
garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.
Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential
adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured
carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either
clarified or cleared.
All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the
fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are
generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.
1193—LOIN OF VEAL
1194—NECK OF VEAL
1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL
1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI
1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés)
I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the
identicalness of their garnishes.
The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few
exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal
joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary
to repeat the recipe in each case.
_Loin of Veal_ is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in
beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the
haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction
with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The
loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called
the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis
and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the
best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from
the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper
fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the
kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat
has been removed.
_Neck or Best End of Veal_ consists of the first eight or nine ribs,
cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are
cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked
bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds
the ornamental frill of paper.
The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone
remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are
covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.
_Cushion of Veal_ consists of an enormous muscle, which represents
almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the
pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white
fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be
carefully reserved.
If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it
should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.
The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but,
as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the
greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its
accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of
White Meats, No. 248.)
1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL
Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an
almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as
also garnishes of various pastes.
From among these garnishes the following may be quoted,
viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons,
Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives,
Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière,
Macédoine, Renaissance, &c.
Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously
prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.
And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef
Relevés, which need not be repeated here.
I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion
of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities,
seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as
gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish
tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.
1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE
Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it
on a dish, and let it almost cool.
Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its
height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a
circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat,
and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same
thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about
one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the
appearance of a round or oval case.
If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for
the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from
out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may
easily be cut therefrom.
The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according
to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is
returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched
appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it
may be hot for serving.
The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to
the table separately.
1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACÉDOINE
Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.
Meanwhile (1) prepare a _Macédoine_ garnish, or mixed _Jardinière_
(cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in
proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from
the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.
Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of _Macédoine_, and set
thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with
_Macédoine_; set thereon another litter of the pieces of meat, and
renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of
_Macédoine_.
Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case
in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor
separately.
1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS
Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.
Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of
stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter
with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of
which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the
necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence;
put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place;
seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid
forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.
When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn
meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until
required for the dressing.
The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds,
but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the
title of the dish.
1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE
Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained
above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken
forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised
without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very
white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an
Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.
Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround
with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.
N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served
with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the
Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.
Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those
described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling
principle of which should always be simplicity.
1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE
Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch
wide by one-sixth inch thick.
On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper,
combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.
Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles
and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with
jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.
When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle
of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border
the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.
1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUÉDOISE
(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice
one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.
(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and
upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.
(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long,
by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the
same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though
slightly thinner than those of veal.
(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in
an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to
set.
Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle
of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their
corners.
_For Dishing._—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe,
garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously
softened butter.
Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on
it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal
and tongue sandwiches all round.
Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.
1205—LONGES, CARRÉS ET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDS
What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to
the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated
with aspic jelly and dished with _Macédoines_ of vegetables, cohered
with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished
artichoke-bottoms, &c.
The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.
1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé)
Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a
piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one
and one-half inches.
After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the
fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with
strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef.
Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when
not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal.
Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings
of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be
easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should
never be touched with a knife.
It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of
its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.
All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to
Fricandeau.
1207—FRICANDEAU FROID
Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished
and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and
strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest
adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.
The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by
means of a brush.
1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE
This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé.
It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable
and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.
Breast of veal is prepared thus:—After having boned the piece, open it
where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is
thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking
care to spread it very evenly.
Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw
the cotton when the piece is cooked.
_Stuffing for Breast of Veal._—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to
one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. 196), two oz. of dry _duxelles_,
two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a
small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.
_Cooking._—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening should be
short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs.
when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze
breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised
meats.
1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée)
Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom
formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any
importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated
to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.
After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap,
for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of
blood. Then, blanch it for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water;
drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.
If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin,
that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either
case, plunge it immediately into a boiling _blanc_ (No. 167).
With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which
would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with
chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of
keeping the air from the calf’s head.
Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send
slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.
The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is
poached as described under No. 1289.
1210—TÊTE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE
Calf’s head _à l’anglaise_ is cooked in a _blanc_, as explained above;
but in halves and unboned.
Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of
boiled bacon.
Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. 119a) to the table at the same
time.
1211—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE
Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_ as already directed. Suppress
portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to
leave only a very little on the skin.
Cut off pieces into squares of one, two or three in. side; put them in
a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small
slices of tongue and brain.
1212—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE
Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_.
Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss
them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No. 101).
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUE
With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the
pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed.
For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.
Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a
Tortue garnish.
_Tortue garnish consists of_: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with
butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and
poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives
(these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and
Tortue sauce.
This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices
of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in
_court-bouillon_; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be
suppressed; and small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the
last moment.
1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE
Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish.
Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of
very green, curled-leaf parsley.
Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers,
chopped onion and parsley.
Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce
à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil,
and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the
necessary salt and pepper.
1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU
Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but
they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from
three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective
tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based
triangles, and they should be more or less flattened, according to
their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards
served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten
in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the
latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated _à
l’anglaise_, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.
In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified
butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.
All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the
cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on
the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but,
in the case of collops treated _à l’anglaise_, the garnish or sauce
which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture
soften the crisp coating of the collops.
1216—GRENADINS
Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon
strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are
really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively
lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the
fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the
grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their
braising-liquor.
When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the
garnishes given for the cushion of veal.
1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE
This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways;
here is a simple way:—
Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins.
Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon
a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French
beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost
(_i.e._, upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted
aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin.
When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border
consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these
vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them
from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.
When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot water; turn
out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a
crown.
Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.
1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)
Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies
in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous.
Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them
to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long
as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.
To _blanch_ them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden
the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover
them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten
minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.
When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all
cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of
linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.
Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way
in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either
tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and
plainly braised, just as they are.
Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way
whatsoever their quality or sightliness.
Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in
shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round
and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which
is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.
In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far
as possible.
There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz.:—Braising (No. 248),
poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the following recipes,
therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under
one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is
to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.
1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY
Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels
one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an
equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than
those of sweetbread.
Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches,
and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so
doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish.
When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any
superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an
_anglaise_ (No. 174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs,
and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small
cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before
serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden
skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux
on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them
upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and
put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.
Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU
Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream
(No. 194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices;
(3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and
three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips,
raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved
roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each
of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and
kept somewhat firm.
Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides
with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and
spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.
This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of
slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with
a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of
sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until
the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a
round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_ and
in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.
When taking the _chartreuse_ out of the _bain-marie_, let it stand
for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle
a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place
a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it,
and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed
half-lettuces.
Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with
mushroom essence.
1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN
Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and
coarse _julienne_, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut
celery.
Braise the veal sweetbreads with this _julienne_, after the manner
described under No. 248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take
particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.
When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a
shallow, round _cocotte_ with the _julienne_ of vegetables and the
braising-liquor all round.
Cover the _cocotte_, and serve it on a folded napkin.
1222—CRÉPINETTE DE RIS DE VEAU
For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some
remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.
Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their
weight of raw calf’s udder.
Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz.
of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix
the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap
each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.
Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.
Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same
time.
1223—RIS DE VEAU A LA CÉVENOLE
Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.
Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve,
at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened
gravy.
1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF
Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and
only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow _cocotte_, and
surround them with the following garnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the
same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal
quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cut
_paysanne_-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in
butter.
Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced
truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease
and serve in the _cocotte_.
1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈRE
Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized
slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means
of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter,
garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border of _mousseline_
forcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a
tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.
Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish
the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white
Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball
of very black truffle.
Set each slice on a thin, oval _croûton_ of the same size as the
former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat,
the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a
timbale of fresh peas.
1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE
_Blanch_ the veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them
into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.
At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the
same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged
them.
Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices;
put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in
the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.
1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC
_Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the
latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the
form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat
with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.
When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.
1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC
_Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.
Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of
slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.
Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish
them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken
forcemeat.
On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a
slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.
Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.
1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MARÉCHALE
Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them
into slices.
Treat the latter _à l’anglaise_; brown them in clarified butter, and
dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.
In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter.
1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS
After having _blanched_, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them
to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at
their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill
gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.
The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce
a more lengthy one.
1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS CARMAGO
Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which
is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top
of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw
all the crumb from the inside.
Fill this kind of _croustade_, two-thirds full, with a garnish
consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la
Vichy,” in equal quantities.
Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with
slices of grilled bacon.
Dish on a napkin and serve at once.
1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ GISMONDA
Prepare a shallow _croustade_, without colouration, in an oval flawn
ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal
sweetbread after the manner already described.
Garnish the bottom of the _croustade_ with equal quantities of
artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and
cohered with cream sauce.
Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the _croustade_ on
a folded napkin.
Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.
1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ JOCELYNE
Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the
same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their
edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the
sweetbread at the same time.
When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise
as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise
prepared with curry.
Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread
lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.
1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS SAINT-GERMAIN
_Blanch_, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained.
Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of
small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and
carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and
glazed.
Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.
1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS
Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them
in a round, flat _cocotte_, just large enough to hold them. Cover them
with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor
over the whole; cover the _cocotte_, and seal the cover to the edges
of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a
mixture of flour and water.
The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever
of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.
Put the _cocotte_ into a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a
dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when
the dish reaches the table.
1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES
Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration.
Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the
proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.
At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of
two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with
crayfish butter, and poached.
Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.
1237—RIS DE VEAU A LA RÉGENCE
Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.
Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and
surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps
representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of
fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’
combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an
Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.
1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE
Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts
braise them.
Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads,
garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.
Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No. 2358); set them
on a tray; _gild_; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste
to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.
When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with
Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.
1239—RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE
Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.
Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round,
and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.
_Toulousaine garnish_ comprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles;
cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices
of truffle.
Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.
1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE
Prepare (1) the required number of small, fluted _croustades_, baked
without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number
of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there are _croustades_, and
of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small
chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved button-mushrooms, and sliced
cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira,
in the proportion of one tablespoonful per _croustade_. (5) As many
fine slices of truffle as there are _croustades_.
Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each _croustade_; set thereon
a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish the
_croustades_ on a folded napkin.
1241—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE RIS DE VEAU
Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-mould. Take
about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and roll it into _galettes_,
one-third inch thick; fold the paste over after having dredged it
slightly; draw the two ends gently towards the centre, to form a kind
of skullcap, which, when placed in the mould, immediately lines the
latter. Avoid making folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap,
for they would spoil the look of the patty when turned out.
Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that the latter
may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the projecting paste to
within half inch of the brim. Now coat the bottom and sides of the
mould with a layer of chicken forcemeat, of an even thickness of
two-thirds of an inch.
Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of slices of
poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mushrooms and sliced
truffles; the whole covered with reduced and somewhat stiff Allemande
sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.
Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close the patty with
a layer of paste, the edges of which should be moistened and sealed
down all round the brim of the mould. Pinch the rim of paste inside
and outside, and finish off with leaves of paste stamped out with a
fancy-cutter, ribbed by means of the back of a knife, and laid upon the
paste cover. _Gild_ with beaten egg; make a central slit for the escape
of steam, and set to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty
minutes.
When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish it on a
napkin.
1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU
Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of
noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings,
discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be
effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are
the best.
Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241; slightly
moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the
paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be
well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the
mould.
Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during
the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and
fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils.
Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by
means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the
edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out,
and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste,
superposed to form a kind of dome.
Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover
with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the
sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear
the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an
egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of
drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a
very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which
is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the
garnish.
Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this
coating of forcemeat may poach.
_Garnish._—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into
collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of
chicken, _mousseline_ forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls
one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of
truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration.
Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom
essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the
reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover;
dish upon a folded napkin, and serve.
N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered
with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence.
(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or
brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal
ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be
altered or modified.
1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU
Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois
menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I
wished it to appear among the recipes in this work.
_The preparation of the paste_: Make the vol au vent crust as explained
under No. 2390.
_Garnish._—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de
Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its
minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread
must always stand as the dominating element.
Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should
always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in
_court-bouillon_.
_Dishing._—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin;
pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the
crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish.
1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU
Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau
Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently
plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the _cocotte_.
When the sweetbreads are in the _cocotte_, together with the _julienne_
of vegetables and a _julienne_ of truffles, strain the braising-liquor
over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to
a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface.
Dish the _cocotte_ on a napkin.
1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE
Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are
quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some
horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue
of the same size as the underlying collop.
Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in
proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable
salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in
advance.
Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in
that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the
leaves of which should be slightly opened out.
1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L’ÉCARLATE
Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops
half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out
some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be
only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal
sweetbread.
Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and
cover with a roundel of tongue.
Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with
jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle.
Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly
in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice.
Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.
=Calf’s Liver.=
Calf’s liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon entrée.
Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as a relevé,
braised and whole.
1247—FOIE DE VEAU BRAISÉ A LA BOURGEOISE
Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for “Bœuf à la
Mode.” Brown it slightly in the oven, and then put it into a saucepan
garnished for braising. (No. 247.)
Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it completely. This
done, moisten again with brown stock, adding one pint of Espagnole
sauce per quart of the moistening.
It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little above
the middle of the piece of liver.
When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver to another
saucepan; surround it with carrots, shaped like elongated olives and
half-cooked in consommé; and some small onions, half-cooked in butter.
The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should naturally be in
proportion to the size of the piece of liver.
Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently in the
oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions all round; reduce the
sauce if necessary, and pour it over the garnish.
N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically.
On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these bourgeois
dishes.
1248—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the calf’s liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half oz.
to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper; dredge them,
and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number of rashers of bacon.
Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately, and
sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked, or with a
brown butter.
1249—BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU
Select a pale piece of calf’s liver and cut it into square pieces
two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and toss the
pieces in butter, just to stiffen them.
Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of _blanched_ salted
breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked mushrooms.
Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce, and toss the whole
together, that each particle of the various ingredients may become
coated with Duxelles.
This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the slices of
mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them in so doing; sprinkle
copiously with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill gently.
These brochettes are served, either on a maître-d’hôtel butter, or on a
Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce.
1250—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ESPAGNOLE
Cut the calf’s liver into slices weighing three and a half oz.; season
these with salt and pepper; dredge them; sprinkle them with oil, and
grill them gently.
Meanwhile, prepare:—(1) As many grilled half-tomatoes as there are
pieces of liver; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, seasoned, dredged,
and fried in oil; (3) a proportionate quantity of fried parsley.
Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an oval dish;
place a half-tomato upon each; and, on one side, set the fried onions,
on the other, the fried parsley.
1251—FOIE DE VEAU SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES
Cut the calf’s liver into slices, as above; season these with salt and
pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter.
Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; and either pour the
herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately.
1252—PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU
For a calf’s liver loaf made in a quart mould: Cut one lb. of calf’s
liver into dice, and finely pound these together with one-third oz. of
salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add, little by little,
five oz. of very cold frangipan panada, and two eggs.
Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work it over ice, and
finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, cooked in butter,
without colouration; the yolks of two eggs, and quarter pint of thick
cream, added by degrees.
Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-mould; knock
the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the view of settling its
contents, and put it to poach in the oven in a _bain-marie_, for about
forty-five minutes.
When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes,
that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle; turn it out on a round
dish, and cover it with a Duxelles, Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper,
or other sauce.
1253—CÔTES DE VEAU
Veal cutlets may either be grilled or _sautéd_, but the second method
of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable.
When they are _sautéd_, the cutlets should be cooked in clarified
butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large enough to
hold them without crowding.
This done, dish them; pour away the butter in which they have been
cooked; swill the saucepan, _i.e._, dissolve the concentrated gravy
adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid in keeping with
the garnish; either mushroom cooking-liquor, white or red wine,
or Madeira, etc.; and add this swilling-liquor, reduced, to the
accompanying sauce. The latter is generally a buttered half-glaze,
but the best adjunct to veal cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately
buttered.
All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of Veal, suit
veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to refer to those
recipes, as circumstances may dictate; and restrict myself to a few
formulæ which, in my opinion, are suited more particularly to veal
cutlets.
1254—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME
Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one and
one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add six small
onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut into roundels; and
complete the cooking gently in the oven, keeping the saucepan covered.
Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands.
1255—CÔTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE
Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert the veal
cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn it over from
time to time.
At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal gravy, and
serve in the saucepan.
1256—CÔTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE
Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the _cocotte_, with two small slices
of _blanched_ salted breast of pork. Add four small onions, and two
small, long potatoes, cut _paysanne_-fashion; and complete the cooking
of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in the oven.
Send the preparation to the table in the _cocotte_.
1257—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX
Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and truffle, and
cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the quick on both
sides, that the studding may be clean and neat; dish it with a frill on
the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a small garnish of quenelles,
mushrooms, cocks’ combs and kidneys, and turned and _blanched_ olives.
Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, over
the garnish.
1258—CÔTE DE VEAU MILANAISE
With a moistened butcher’s beater, flatten the meat in suchwise as to
reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal cutlet into beaten
egg; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half as much grated Parmesan,
and cook it in clarified butter, or butter and oil in equal quantities.
Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside it.
_Milanaise garnish_ consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned with salt,
pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated Gruyère and Parmesan
cheeses, and very red tomato purée; and combined with a _julienne_ of
very lean cooked ham, salted tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in
Madeira.
1259—CÔTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE
Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile:—
(1) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with a cooked and
sliced mushroom.
(2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size as the
cutlet.
(3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of a heart and
well-oiled.
Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof, lay a slice
of ham; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the latter; put the
cutlet on the sauce; cover it with the remainder of the Duxelles, and
finish with the other slice of ham.
Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat the edges
nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the _papillote_ in a
fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven, transfer it to a dish,
and serve instantly.
1260—CÔTE DE VEAU POJARSKI
Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the bone; clear it
of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its weight of butter,
salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close up to the bone, shaping it
like a cutlet, and cook the whole in clarified butter, turning it over
very carefully in the process.
Dish with a suitable garnish.
1261—CÔTE DE VEAU ZINGARA
Cook the veal cutlet in butter; at the same time prepare a slice of raw
ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed in butter.
Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround with a few
tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce.
_Zingara sauce is prepared thus_: Reduce a few tablespoonfuls of
white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add one-fifth pint of
half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one tablespoonful of
veal stock, one oz. of a _julienne_ of tongue, mushrooms and truffles;
and set to boil for a few seconds.
1262—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE
Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet
in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little
vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as to
fix them.
Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil, and let
it lie with its decorated side undermost.
Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former set.
This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot water) round
the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a napkin dipped in hot
water, turn out the cutlet with care, and set it on a cold dish, with a
border of chopped aspic, and a frill on the bone.
1263—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS
Trim the veal cutlet; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover it with
young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by means of aspic.
Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between two
layers of aspic as explained above.
N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue fashion, after the
very simple manner described under “Grenadins en Belle-vue” (No. 1217).
1264—ROGNON DE VEAU
When _sautéd_ after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of all the
preparations given for sheep’s kidney. (See the chapter on Mutton.)
I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are proper to
veal kidney.
1265—ROGNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE
Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of fat all
round it.
Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also called
“cocotte”; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and cook it gently
for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it often the while.
At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good veal gravy.
Serve it in the _cocotte_ as it stands.
1266—ROGNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE
Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of the
“en casserole” dish. Surround it with one and one-half oz. of small
pieces of _blanched_ bacon, tossed in butter; one and one-half oz. of
raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and one and one-half oz. of
small _blanched_ potatoes, of the size and shape of garlic cloves, and
the same quantity of small, glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the
whole gently.
At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy, and serve
the _cocotte_ as it stands.
1267—ROGNON DE VEAU GRILLÉ
Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round it. Cut
it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the two halves,
and impale it on a small skewer, with the view of keeping it in shape.
Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently; basting it often the
while with melted butter.
Send separately, either a Maître-d’hôtel, a Bercy, or other butter
suited to grills.
1268—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA LIÉGEOISE
Prepare the veal kidney as for “_en casserole_.” One minute before
serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two crushed juniper
berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve in the
cooking-utensil.
1269—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER
Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round it, and
cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them in butter
over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate.
Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and add thereto
three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few drops of lemon juice,
one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale; sprinkle them with
the sauce, and in their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices.
1270—ROGNON DE VEAU PORTUGAISE
Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner
described under No. 1269.
Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish; set a very small, stuffed
half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a very
reduced tomato _fondue_. Surround the kidney with a sauce prepared as
directed above.
1271—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT
Heat one oz. of butter in a small _cocotte_; put the seasoned veal
kidney therein; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook in the
oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it leaves the oven,
and complete the procedure, at the table, in the following manner:—
Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the _cocotte_ on a spirit
lamp; pour into the former one glassful of excellent liqueur brandy,
and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut the kidney into extremely
thin slices, and cover these with an overturned plate.
Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of mustard,
one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a quarter of a
lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work the whole well with a
fork, with the view of effecting the leason.
Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the gravy that has
drained from it; heat the whole well, without boiling, and serve on
very hot plates.
1272—TENDRONS DE VEAU
The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact, the
extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the sternum.
If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described
under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248); or, simply stew them
in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them
frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an
ordinary veal _sauté_, from which they only differ in shape, and the
various preparations of which may be adapted to them.
The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables,
and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as
noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served
with them.
1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE
Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then,
slightly blanch them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with
enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and
skim.
For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion,
stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks,
and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and
one-half hours.
Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and
one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor;
add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour,
despumating the sauce the while.
Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve
small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very
white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed
with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice;
strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in
a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or _cèpes_,
instead of with ordinary mushrooms.
1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC.
Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook
with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, _i.e._,
either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut
into pieces and well _blanched_. The endives are not _blanched_; they
need only be well washed and put with the veal.
When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a
timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed
and strained over the meat.
1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES
Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of
onions and mushrooms.
When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled
and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed
quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those
cohered.
1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU
Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of
veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration.
When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz.
of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes;
then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil,
stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given
for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the
latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the
leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for
blanquette.
1277—FRICADELLES
Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly
prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat,
in the following manner:—
_Fricadelles with Raw Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three
and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all
fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the
whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed
crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a
little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without
colouration.
Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and
one-half oz.
Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them
into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out
with the flat of a knife.
Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the fricadelles
therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in
the oven.
This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a
vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.
_Fricadelles with Cooked Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two
and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat
finely.
Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and
a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked
in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without
colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and
shape and cook them as in the previous case.
These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces
suited to those prepared from raw meat.
1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU
Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal,
four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover
them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their
forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice,
with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are
sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always
braised, gently and protractedly.
They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be
served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.
By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been
braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles,
gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine
garnish, etc.
1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU
The pieces best suited to veal _sautés_ are: the breast and the
shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and
undercushion.
1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO
Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein
two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry
until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed
half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments.
Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for the
purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce,
and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and
one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of
tomato sauce), and a faggot.
Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.
At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to
another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of
mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish,
add two large pinches of _concassed_ parsley, and cook for a further
quarter of an hour.
When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and
surround with small heart-shaped _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in
oil.
1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR
Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil.
Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two
tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in
the oven gently for one and one-half hours.
Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their
cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of
Chasseur sauce (No. 33).
Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter
of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER
Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of
brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil,
and cook in the oven gently for one hour.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a
garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain
the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further
three-quarters of an hour.
Dish in a timbale and distribute over the _sauté_ a few tablespoonfuls
of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked _à l’anglaise_.
1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE
Cut up, _sauté_, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours,
as for No. 1280.
Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add to them three
small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten
small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten
chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight Chipolata sausages.
Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and
its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a
timbale.
1284—SAUTÉS DE VEAU DIVERS
Veal _sauté_ may also be prepared with mushrooms, _fines herbes_,
egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc.
1285—PAIN DE VEAU
Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. 1252; but
substitute for the liver some very white veal.
Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as
velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with
mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc.
1286—CALF’S FEET
Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of
aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the
preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be
cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of
calf’s head.
1287—CALVES’ TONGUES
Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be
prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox
Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.)
1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES
Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those
who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies
to the brains of the ox and the sheep.
The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains,
are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in
the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing
with brains may be applied to it.
1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS
Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the amourettes,
and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put
the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling _court-bouillon_ (No. 163)
to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently.
Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only
stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but
they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process
only tends to make them firmer.
1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT
Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of _gratin_
force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of
a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the
brains by putting the coated slices together again.
Roll some puff-paste remains into a _galette_ one-fifth of an inch
thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the
brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the _galette_,
and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices;
sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and
draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely.
_Gild_; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a
hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven,
pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish
on a napkin.
1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR
Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt
and pepper.
Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly
blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley _pluches_, and sprinkle the
brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning
frying-pan, and add it to the brains.
1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE
Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has
acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the
brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of
chopped parsley.
1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE
Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat
them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in
clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each,
and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter.
1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE
Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. 101), combined with
three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.
Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking
care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch
of chopped parsley.
1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY
Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter.
Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to
cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them _à
l’anglaise_. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on
a napkin with fried parsley.
Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately.
1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE
Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390. Slice the
brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with
twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up;
four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices,
five or six of which should be reserved.
Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved
slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.
1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA
Poach one lb. of _amourettes_, as explained above, and cut them into
lengths of one in.
Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan,
and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz.
of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of
the pieces of _amourettes_. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the
whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the
pieces of _amourettes_, and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.
MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB
=Relevés and Entrées.=
From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies three kinds of
meat, viz:—
_Mutton_—properly so-called when the meat is derived from the adult
animal.
_Lamb_—the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the meat of which
is the more highly esteemed the younger the animal is.
_House Lamb_—the sheep’s unweaned young that has not yet grazed.
The “Pauillac” lamb, which is imported from France, is the most
excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs are also killed
in England; they are quite equal to Pauillac lamb, but their season
is short. As regards ordinary English mutton and lamb, however, the
delicacy and quality of these meats are unrivalled.
But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb, which
corresponds with what the French call “agneau de pré-salé” is scarcely
distinguishable from mutton. The recipes suited to it are the same
as those given for mutton; and all that is necessary is to allow for
differences of quality in calculating the time of cooking.
House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different, admits of some
of the mutton recipes; but it is generally prepared after special
formulæ, the details of which I shall give hereafter.
When served roasted, hot or cold, mutton and grass and house lamb are
always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe for which I gave under
No. 136.
In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order to avoid
finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes
for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in
mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb.
1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON
1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON
1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON
1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON
1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés)
_Saddle of mutton_ is that part of the sheep which reaches from the
bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.
_Baron of mutton_ comprises the saddle and the two legs, _i.e._, a pair
of hind-quarters.
_Double_ consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle.
The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.
The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two,
lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to
bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled
over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case
the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before
being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying
fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn
over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle
should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.
In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely
removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should
be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the
bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of
the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The
cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string.
When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the
end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more
than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should
consist of rather less if anything.
Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes.
Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces
are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles,
gniokis; they are seldom used.
Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference,
from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de
Bœuf” (Nos. 1044 to 1074) and which I recall hereafter:—
_Andalouse_, _Bouquetière_, _Châtelaine_, _Clamart_, _Dauphine_,
_Dubarry_, _Duchesse_, _Japonaise_, _Jardinière_, _Lorette_,
_Macédoine_, _Montmorency_, _Moderne_, _Nivernaise_, _Orientale_,
_Petit-Duc_, _Provençale_, _Renaissance_, _Richelieu_, _St. Germain_.
Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes
also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato
preparation:—
_Braised Lettuce_, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.
_Cabbages_, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed
with fine mince-meat or rice.
_Haricot-beans_, _Peas_ and _Broad-beans_, cohered with butter.
_Asparagus-heads_, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter.
_Celery_, _Endives_, and _Chicory_, all braised. _Brussels Sprouts_,
_Cauliflowers_, _Broccoli_, etc.
Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: _à l’Anglaise_,
_à la Boulangère_, _Braisés_, _Mariné en Chevreuil_, which I give below
for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other
large pieces of mutton.
1303—LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON
Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple.
The garnishing is optional.
1304—LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON
Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but an ordinary
luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they should always be
served after one of the ways described hereafter, all the garnishes
given above may be applied to them.
Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be boned, seasoned
inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They may be treated like the
legs, and the same garnishes are suited to them.
1305—GIGOT BOUILLI A L’ANGLAISE
Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and plunge
it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the proportion of
one-third oz. of salt per quart of water.
For an ordinary leg, add: three medium-sized carrots, two onions, each
stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of garlic.
Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of its
weight.
Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time a butter
sauce with capers.
N.B.—Leg of mutton _à l’anglaise_ may be accompanied by purées of
turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook with the meat.
A purée of potatoes or of haricot beans may be sent to the table with
the meat; but, in this case, of course, the vegetables would be served
separately.
1306—BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON
Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown the leg in the
oven.
Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising; add just enough
white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook gently, allowing forty
minutes per lb. of meat.
Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor; clear it
of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with a few
tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze in the oven.
Serve at the same time:—
(1) Either a purée of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of
cauliflower, etc., or
(2) The reduced braising-liquor.
1307—GIGOT A LA BOULANGÈRE
The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung; or the
end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis removed.
In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it well in the
oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all but a third.
This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just tossed
in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight large, peeled
potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick. Sprinkle this garnish
with the grease of the joint, and then complete the cooking of the leg
and its garnish.
Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked.
1308—GIGOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL
Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and skin the top
of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite bare. Lard with very
small strips of bacon, and put the meat into a _marinade_ prepared
after the manner described under No. 170. The length of its stay in
the _marinade_ should be based upon the tenderness of the meat and
atmospheric conditions. In winter the time averages about three or four
days, and in summer two days.
_To Roast the Joint._—Withdraw it from the _marinade_ and dry it
thoroughly; set it on a stand in the baking-tray; and put it into a
very fierce oven, that the meat may _set_ immediately. The object
of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices absorbed from the
_marinade_ escaping in steam and thereby hardening the meat.
Towards the close of the operation, rissole the larding bacon well.
Set on a long dish; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chevreuil
sauce separately.
_Chevreuil Sauce à la Française._—With the _marinade_ of the joint
and a _Mirepoix_ with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of Poivrade
sauce (No. 49) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after it has been
strained through a colander—an operation which should be effected with
the application of great pressure to the aromatics.
Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by little,
half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the seasoning with
a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar, and once more rub the
whole through tammy or a fine strainer.
1309—GIGOT A LA SOUBISE
Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. 247. When it is two-thirds
done, transfer it to another utensil; strain the braising-liquor over
it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions and two-third lb. of
rice.
Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the onions and
the rice. This done:—(1) put it on a baking-tray and glaze it in the
oven; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice through a fine sieve or
tammy.
Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the bone, and
serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished with one oz. of
butter.
N.B.—This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this case it has
much less flavour than when it is made from the onions and the rice
which have cooked in the braising-liquor. I therefore urge the adoption
of the recipe as it stands.
1310—COLD LEG OF MUTTON
Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton.
1311—CUTLETS
Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes _sautéd_; but grilling is
the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature of their
preparation requires that they should be treated _à l’anglaise_, fry
them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given under “Tournedos,”
except those served with sauces, may be applied to cutlets.
The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I give in
the following recipes.
1312—CÔTELETTES A LA CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets)
Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder; that is to
say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint. And do not clear the
bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are to be fixed to them.
Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter on both
sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with half lb. of
sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration; moisten with
enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and the onions; add the
quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot; boil, and set in
the oven. At the end of twenty minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of
potatoes, fashioned to the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels;
season, and complete the cooking, basting often the while.
When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost entirely
reduced.
1313—CÔTELETTES LAURA
Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the quantity of
which should be such as to allow two and one-half oz. of it per cutlet)
of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with cream,
and combined, per lb., with three and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed,
and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed in butter.
Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni with
cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white truffles.
Cut some very soft pig’s caul into triangles, proportionate in size to
the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on the latter
set a cutlet; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni, and enclose
the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish.
Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill at the
salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight minutes.
Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them with a
thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes.
1314—CÔTELETTES A LA MAINTENON
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put a heaped
tablespoonful of a _Maintenon_ preparation (No. 226) on each; shape it
like a dome, by means of the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid
water, and put the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. The _Maintenon_
preparation should be laid on the cooked side of each cutlet and
sprinkled with fine raspings and melted butter. Now put the cutlets in
a rather hot oven for seven or eight minutes in order to:—
(1) Allow a _gratin_ to form over the surface of the garnish.
(2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets.
Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately, a
sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter.
1315—CÔTELETTES A LA MURILLO
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the cooked
side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms, cohered with a
little very reduced Béchamel sauce.
Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of
melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish the cutlets in the form
of a crown; fix a frill to each, and surround them with mild capsicums
and tomatoes, both of which should be sliced, tossed in butter, and
mixed.
1316—CÔTELETTES A LA PROVENÇALE
For ten cutlets:—(1) Reduce one-half pint of Béchamel sauce to a third,
and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed, and the yolks of
three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as the cutlets, ten grilled
mushrooms; and ten stoned, stuffed and poached olives, girded by a
strip of anchovy fillet.
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the cooked side of
each with the preparation described above; set them on a tray; sprinkle
them with a few drops of melted butter, and put them in the oven, that
their garnish may be glazed and that their cooking may be completed.
Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom (convex side
uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and, on each mushroom, a
stuffed olive.
1316a—CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME
Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted butter, and
roll them in bread-crumbs, combined with finely-chopped ham in the
proportion of a third of the weight of the bread-crumbs. Now cook them
gently in clarified butter.
Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to
the table with them:—
Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoonfuls of
half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce, and one
coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffeespoonful of each
of the following short _julienne_ garnishes to the sauce; viz.:
hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted tongue; gherkins; mushrooms,
and truffles.
1317—CÔTELETTES A LA SÉVIGNÉ
Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-bottom croquettes,
in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful for each cutlet.
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the fried side
of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation; treat them _à
l’anglaise_, and sprinkle them with melted butter.
Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at the same time,
to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs.
Dish in the form of a crown.
1318—CÔTELETTES A LA SUÉDOISE
Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced onions and
shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay. Sprinkle them with the
juice of a lemon and a few drops of oil, and leave them to _marinade_
for thirty minutes, turning them over the while, from time to time.
This done, dry them; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with
bread-crumbs, and grill them.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre of the dish
with the following, which may also be sent separately: one-half lb. of
peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly stewed to a purée with the
third of a wineglassful of white wine. When about to serve, add to this
purée two and one-half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter
grated and afterwards finely chopped.
1319—CÔTELETTES EN BELLE VUE
Proceed after one of the recipes given for veal cutlets and grenadins
“en Belle Vue.”
1320—CÔTELETTES EN CHAUDFROID
Cut some very regular cutlets from a neck of mutton or lamb, which
should have been trimmed as explained, braised, and left to cook in its
braising-liquor. Clear all grease from the latter; strain it; reduce
it, and add to it a brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34).
Dip the cutlets in the sauce when it is almost cold; set them on a
tray; deck the kernel of meat in each with a fine slice of truffle, and
sprinkle with cold, melted aspic. When the sauce has set well, pass the
point of a small knife round the cutlets, with the view of removing
the superfluous sauce; and either dish them round a vegetable salad,
cohered and moulded, or simply dish them in the form of a circle and
place a pyramid of cohered, vegetable salad in their midst.
1321—NOISETTES DE MOUTON
Mutton _noisettes_, and especially those of lamb, may be classed among
the choicest of entrées. They are cut from either the fillet or the
neck; but, in the latter case, only the first six or seven ribs are
used.
_Noisettes_ are grilled or _sautéd_, and all the recipes given for
Tournedos (Nos. 1077 to 1139) and for cutlets, may be applied to them.
1322—MINION FILLETS
The minion fillets of mutton or lamb consist of the two muscles which
lie under the saddle. Their mode of preparation changes according to
their size. Thus, if they are small, they are served whole, after
having been trimmed, sometimes larded; and _sautéd_.
If they are large, they are divided into two or three parts, cut
laterally and aslant; they are flattened, trimmed to the shape of
ellipses, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with fine
bread-crumbs, and finally, gently grilled.
Minion fillets of beef, obtained from the narrow extremity or head
of the fillet, are also used occasionally; and these are generally
flattened, dipped in butter and fine bread-crumbs, and grilled.
These fillets are served chiefly with vegetable purées or with
_macédoines_ of fresh vegetables.
The sauces best suited to them are the Béarnaise and the Robert
Escoffier.
1323—SHEEP’S TONGUES
Salted or fresh sheep’s tongues make an excellent luncheon entrée.
They are cooked after the manner of ox and calf’s tongues, due
allowance being made for the difference of size.
The various garnishes given for ox and calf’s tongues may also be used
in this case.
1324—SHEEP’S TROTTERS
Sheep’s trotters, as they reach us from the purveyor, should first be
well singed over spirits of wine, and then rubbed with a clean piece
of linen. The little tuft of hair in the cleft of the hoof is next
removed, the hoof itself is suppressed, and the trotters are split open
lengthwise and boned. Sheep’s trotters are cooked like calf’s feet, in
the special _court-bouillon_ or blanc, given under No. 167.
1325—FRITÔT OF SHEEP’S TROTTERS
Fifteen minutes before frying them, put the sheep’s trotters into
a receptacle with lemon juice, a few drops of oil and some chopped
parsley; keeping the quantity of these ingredients in proportion to the
number of trotters. Be careful to toss the latter from time to time in
the _marinade_.
A few moments before serving, dip the half-trotters into batter
(No. 232) and plunge them into an abundant and hot frying-medium.
Drain them when the batter is nicely dry and golden; and dish on a
napkin with a border of very green fried parsley.
Serve a tomato sauce separately.
1326—PIEDS DE MOUTON POULETTE
For this dish the trotters should, as far as possible, be freshly
cooked. For twenty trotters prepare two-thirds of a pint of poulette
sauce; add the trotters thereto, well drained; toss them in the sauce,
and dish them in a timbale with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.
1327—PIEDS DE MOUTON ROUENNAISE
Instead of cooking the sheep’s trotters in a _blanc_, braise them; add
a little Madeira to their braising-liquor, and cook them thoroughly.
Prepare a forcemeat, consisting of one and one-half lbs. of very fine
sausage-meat; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without
colouration, and a large pinch of parsley.
When the trotters are cooked, transfer them to a dish; almost entirely
reduce their braising-liquor; add to this two liqueur-glassfuls
of burnt brandy, for each ten trotters, and add this reduced
braising-liquor to the forcemeat. Cut ten rectangles six inches long by
four inches wide out of pig’s caul.
Spread a tablespoonful of forcemeat over each; set two trotters on the
forcemeat of each rectangle; cover up with forcemeat, and draw the ends
of the caul together in suchwise as to enclose the whole.
Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and melted butter; grill gently, and serve.
1328—PIEDS DE MOUTON TYROLIENNE
Cook a fair-sized chopped onion in butter, together with three peeled,
pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper;
add a pinch of chopped parsley, a little crushed garlic, one-sixth of
a pint of Poivrade sauce, and twenty freshly-cooked and well-drained
sheep’s trotters.
Simmer for ten minutes and dish in a timbale.
1329—MUTTON KIDNEYS
Mutton kidneys are either grilled or _sautéd_. When they are to be
grilled, first remove the fine skin enveloping them, cut them in
halves, without completely severing them on their concave side, and
impale them on a small skewer, with the view of keeping them open
during the grilling operation. Before grilling they may or may not be
dipped in melted butter and rolled in bread-crumb.
When they are to be _sautéd_, clear the kidneys, as before, of the thin
skin which envelops them; cut them into halves, and then into slices
one-quarter in. thick.
Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly, otherwise
they harden. After having seasoned them, put them into very hot butter,
and toss them over a fierce fire in order to stiffen them. This done,
drain them; and let them stand for a few minutes, that they may exude
the blood they contain, which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal
smell.
Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been _sautéd_, and
finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing up. Never let
the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would immediately harden.
1330—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BERCY
Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter, and drain
them.
For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallots into
the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-sixth of a pint of
white wine; reduce to half; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat
glaze, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and put the kidneys in this
sauce. Add two and one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt
this on the corner of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while;
dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the
kidneys.
1331—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BORDELAISE
Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above.
Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce combined
with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped parsley, and three oz.
of sliced _cèpes_, tossed in butter and oil and well drained.
Return the kidneys to the saucepan; toss them in the sauce, and dish in
a timbale.
1332—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CARVALHO
Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in butter, and
dish them, each on a small _croûton_ of bread-crumb, cut to the shape
of a cock’s comb and fried in butter. On each half-kidney, set a small
cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle.
Swill the saucepan with Madeira; add a little half-glaze; put in a
small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this sauce over
the kidneys.
1333—ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU CHAMPAGNE
Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them in two
lengthwise; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish in a
timbale.
Swill the saucepan with one-half pint of champagne per six kidneys;
reduce almost entirely; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze;
add a small quantity of butter, and pour this sauce over the kidneys.
N.B.—The preparation of kidneys _sautéd_ with wine always follows the
same principle; that is to say, the saucepan in which the kidneys have
cooked is always swilled with a quantity of wine, in proportion to the
number of kidneys; a proportionate amount of meat glaze is then added,
and after the sauce has been slightly buttered, the kidneys are tossed
in it.
1334—ROGNONS SAUTÉS HONGROISE
Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them into halves;
slice and season them; fry them in butter, and drain them.
In the saucepan that has served in the cooking of the kidneys, fry a
chopped onion with butter, and add thereto a pinch of paprika.
Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, and reduce; add one-sixth of a
pint of velouté, boil for a moment, and rub through tammy.
Heat this sauce; put the kidneys into it, toss them for a minute, so as
to heat without boiling them, and dish in a timbale.
1335—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CHASSEUR
Quickly fry the sliced mutton kidneys in butter and drain them.
Swill the saucepan with white wine and almost entirely reduce; add
one-third of a pint of Chausseur sauce for each six kidneys; put
the kidneys in this sauce, toss them for an instant; dish them in a
timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1336—ROGNONS SAUTÉS A L’INDIENNE
For six mutton kidneys: fry a chopped onion in butter and add a large
pinch of curry thereto. Moisten with one-sixth pint of velouté; cook
for a few minutes, and rub through tammy.
Clear the kidneys of their outer skin; slice and season them, and
fry them quickly in butter. Put them into the sauce; dish them in a
timbale, and serve some rice “à l’Indienne” separately.
1337—ROGNONS SAUTÉS TURBIGO
Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin and cut them in halves;
season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish them in a circle in a
timbale.
In their midst set a garnish of small, cooked mushrooms, and grilled
chipolata sausages; and pour thereon a highly-seasoned, tomatéd
half-glaze sauce.
1338—CROÛTE AUX ROGNONS
Cut some crusts two and one-half in. in diameter and one and
one-third in. thick, from a tin-loaf, and allow one for each person.
Remove the crumb from their inside, leaving only a slight thickness at
the bottom; butter them, and dry them in the oven.
Garnish these crusts with mutton kidneys _sautéd_ with mushrooms, and
combined with small, ordinary forcemeat quenelles, and slices of
truffle.
Dish on a napkin, and serve very hot.
1339—TURBAN DE ROGNONS A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Garnish a border or a Savarin-mould with “rizotto à la Piémontaise,”
press the latter lightly into the utensil, and keep the mould hot.
Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin; cut them into halves;
season them, and fry them quickly in butter.
Turn out on a round dish, set the half-kidneys in a circle on the
“Turban,” alternating them with fine slices of truffle, and pour a
tomatéd half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, in the middle.
1340—ROGNONS A LA BROCHETTE
Cut the mutton kidneys into halves, as explained, without dividing
them; impale them two or four at a time, on a skewer; season them,
and grill them in a somewhat fierce oven. Set them, with the skewers
withdrawn, upon a hot dish, and put into the cavity of each a piece of
softened, Maître-d’hôtel butter, the size of a hazel nut.
1341—ROGNONS BROCHETTE A L’ESPAGNOLE
Prepare the mutton kidneys as above.
Grill the same quantity of small, pressed and seasoned half-tomatoes.
Garnish these tomatoes with a piece, the size of a walnut, of
Maître-d’hôtel butter, combined with two-thirds oz. of chopped capsicum
per three oz. of butter. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a kidney
on each, and surround with a border consisting of rings of onion,
seasoned, dredged and crisply fried in oil.
1342—ROGNONS BROCHETTE AU VERT PRÉ
Prepare the mutton kidneys exactly as explained under the first of this
kind of recipes, and surround them with small heaps of straw potatoes
and bunches of very green parsley.
1343—BROCHETTES DE ROGNONS
Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys, and cut them into
roundels one-third in. thick. Season these roundels and stiffen them
in butter over a very fierce fire. Impale them on skewers, alternating
them with squares of _blanched_ lean bacon and slices of _sautéd_
mushrooms. Sprinkle with melted butter and raspings, and grill.
These brochettes are generally served as they stand.
=Various Preparations of Mutton.=
1344—CASSOULET
(1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water,
one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one
faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind,
_blanched_ and strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for
one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of
pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt
the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have
ultimately to undergo.
Complete the cooking of the whole gently.
(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of
breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight.
This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped onions and two
crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired
a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée;
moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot
beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.
(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of some _cocottes_ or deep dishes with
bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton,
the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels.
Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set the _gratin_ to form in a
moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with
some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor.
1345—CURRIE A L’INDIENNE
Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side,
and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and
a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions
begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the
latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock;
boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook
gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve,
clear of all grease and dish in a timbale.
Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.
1346—DAUBE A L’AVIGNONNAISE
Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares,
three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of
bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into a
_daubière_ with a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic,
a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third
pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, and _marinade_
in the cool for two hours.
Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic
cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_;
(3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into squares
of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece
of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of a _daubière_ with
thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and
alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a
pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot
in the middle.
Moisten with the _marinade_, strained through a sieve, and one-fifth
pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close the _daubière_,
and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that
the steam may be concentrated inside.
Boil on the side of the stove; put the _daubière_ in an oven of regular
heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be
gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.
When about to serve, uncover the _daubière_; remove the overlying
slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish the
_daubière_ on a napkin.
N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in the
_daubière_ itself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in
order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be
served in small earthenware utensils.
1347—DAUBE FROIDE
Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed
is to put what is left into a small _daubière_, where, as a result of
the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass.
When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very
light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.
1348—ÉMINCÉS ET HACHIS
An unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincés and hashes,
which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if
it be desired that they be not hard.
They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or
sauce, and in the case of émincés, cut as finely as possible.
For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef.
(Nos. 1175, 1178 and 1179.)
1349—HARICOT DE MOUTON
Heat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean
bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_, and twenty small onions. When the
bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain
both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and
shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about
three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired
a frizzled coat.
Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust
with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the
while.
Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz. of salt and
a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven
for thirty minutes.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and
the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce
over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour.
Dish in a timbale or in small _cocottes_.
1350—IRISH STEW
Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as
above.
Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions.
Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the
moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces
of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat
spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the
operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and
remember to place a faggot in the middle.
Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the
oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation
answer the double purpose of garnish and leason.
Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.
1351—MOUSSAKA
(1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise; _cisel_ the pulp
somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until
their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the
pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.
(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels
one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put
them aside.
(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a
basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped
or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped
onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic
as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried
in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one
tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper.
Mix the whole well.
(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over
with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side uppermost. Garnish
the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on
this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus
with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer
of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in a
_bain-marie_ for one hour.
When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in
order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and
besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley.
1352—MUTTON PUDDING
Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No. 1170) exactly.
The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton
for the beef.
1353—NAVARIN PRINTANIER
Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs.
of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces
weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with
one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar.
The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns
to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the
sauce the required colour.
When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with
one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and
moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock.
Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of fresh _concassed_
tomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato purée; one crushed clove of
garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook in the oven for one hour.
This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to another
saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty pieces of new trimmed
carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips, cut to the shape of long olives
and tossed with butter in a frying-pan; twenty small, new potatoes,
cut into two, and trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and
an equal quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the
sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly in the
oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste the overlying
vegetables with sauce.
Dish in a timbale and serve very hot.
N.B.—When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much less quickly
than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover, they are cooked by
means of gradual penetration; thus, by slackening the cooking speed of
the Navarin, they are cooked to the required extent.
1354—PILAW DE MOUTON A LA TURQUE
Mutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which the tomatoes
dominate the other ingredients; it is flavoured with ginger or saffron,
according to circumstances, and the usual vegetables are replaced by
rice. Prepared in this way, it does not lend itself very well to the
exigencies of a restaurant service.
More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton; but, instead
of serving it with rice à l’Indienne, it is dished in the midst of a
pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served separately,
after the manner of a curry dish.
HOUSE LAMB.
1355—BARON (OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS) OF LAMB
1356—DOUBLE (OR PAIR OF LEGS) OF LAMB
1357—QUARTER OF LAMB
1358—FILLET OF LAMB
1359—SADDLE AND NECK OF LAMB
Large joints of lamb for Relevés are cut like those of mutton.
One joint, however, should be added, which is “The Haunch”; and this
consists of one leg and half the loin attached.
Large joints of house lamb should be _poëled_ or roasted. Their most
suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a thickened, highly
seasoned and clear gravy.
House Lamb Relevés are chiefly garnished with early-season or new
vegetables; but all the garnishes given under Mutton Relevés may also
be served with them, provided the difference in size be taken into
account. In addition to these garnishes, saddle of lamb admits of all
the preparations given under saddle of veal (Nos. 1181 to 1191).
1360—SELLE D’AGNEAU DE LAIT ÉDOUARD VII.
Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as to leave
the skin intact; season it inside, and place in the middle a fine foie
gras, studded with truffles and _marinaded_ in Marsala.
Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of muslin; put
it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a litter of pieces
of bacon rind, cleared of all fat and _blanched_. Moisten, enough to
cover, with the braising-liquor of a cushion of veal; add thereto
the Marsala used in _marinading_ the foie gras, and poach for about
forty-five minutes.
Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras is
sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle in an
oval _terrine à pâté_ just large enough to hold it. Strain the
cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease, and set
it to cool.
When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease that
lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means of boiling
water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands.
1361—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU BEAUCAIRE
Having trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it in butter;
surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes, and cook gently
in the oven. The artichokes in question have no chokes and are very
tender.
Meanwhile, peel, press, _concass_ and season four or five tomatoes, and
fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large pinch of chopped
tarragon to them.
Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround it with the
stewed half-artichokes.
1362—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU EN COCOTTE A LA BONNE FEMME
Fry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter.
This done, transfer it to an oval _cocotte_ with ten small onions
browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large dice,
shaped like garlic cloves, and _blanched_. Sprinkle the whole with
melted butter and cook gently in the oven.
Serve the preparation as it stands, in the _cocotte_, placing the
latter on a folded napkin.
1363—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA BOULANGÈRE
Fry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish, and surround
it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced potatoes; both of
which vegetables should be in quantities in proportion to the size of
the piece of meat. The “à la Boulangère” procedure is always the same,
and was explained under No. 1307, but allowances should always be made
for the particular size and tenderness of the piece.
1364—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU GRILLÉ
Having shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it; sprinkle it with
melted butter, and grill it gently.
When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted butter and
bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour while completely
cooking it.
Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish.
1365—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU MIREILLE
Prepare some Anna potatoes (No. 2203) in an oval earthenware
dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw, minced
artichoke-bottoms.
When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck in butter;
place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of the two, basting
often the while with melted butter.
Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has served in the
cooking process.
1366—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER
Prepare the following garnish: eight small onions, half-cooked in
butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic cloves, cooked
in consommé and glazed; and ten turnips of the same shape and size,
similarly treated.
Put these vegetables into a _cocotte_ with three tablespoonfuls of
fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into lozenge
form; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very clear stock, and
complete the cooking of the whole.
Meanwhile, _poële_ the neck of lamb, which should have been shortened
and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of lamb and serve the
vegetables in the _cocotte_.
1367—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU SOUBISE
Having shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it in butter;
surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and well-blanched
onions, and complete the cooking of both by stewing.
This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add
one-quarter pint of boiling Béchamel sauce to the onions, and rub them
quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this Soubise; finish it
with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour it over the neck.
Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze, and serve.
1368—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA TOSCANE
Shorten the neck of lamb; suppress the cartilaginous portions and
stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthenware dish,
of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna potatoes (No. 2203).
Set the neck on this layer, and cover it over with a second layer of
the same potato preparation. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; cook in
the oven as for Anna potatoes, and take care that the bottom be so
well set as to prevent any of the juices of the joint from exuding and
depositing on it.
Serve the dish as it stands.
1369—LEG AND SHOULDER OF LAMB
All the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of legs), may be
applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb.
The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected over
a moderate fire after the joints have been incised lattice-fashion,
and the same applies to the breast. The “à la Boulangère” treatment
(No. 1307) admirably suits the legs and shoulders of house lamb.
1370—CUTLETS
According to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like “Noisettes,”
_i.e._, two are allowed for each person.
As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously dipped in
melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs.
When they are to be _sautéd_ they are treated _à l’anglaise_ (egg and
bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of preparation, they
have to be served plain or stuffed.
1371—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT A LA BULOZ
Prepare:—(1) a rizotto (No. 2238) with truffles, in proportion to the
number of cutlets; (2) some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with
one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-fifth pint of the sauce, and
allowing one small tablespoonful of it for each cutlet.
Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both sides, with
the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have received their coat
of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten egg (_anglaise_); roll
them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Thoroughly
press this coating of bread-crumbs with the flat of a knife, that
it may adhere well to the egg and produce a crust at the close of
the operation. This done, set the cutlets in a sautépan of very hot,
clarified butter, and brown them on both sides.
Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a circle on
the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each.
1372—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MARÉCHALE
Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each; and, in
their midst, set a nice heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
1373—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MILANAISE
Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, but add to the bread-crumbs the
quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan.
Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, and, in
their midst, arrange a garnish “à la milanaise” (see Côte de Veau à la
Milanaise, No. 1258.)
1374—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MORLAND
Slightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them
in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the purpose of
bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a knife, that it may
thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook the cutlets in clarified
butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish the centre of the dish with a
mushroom purée (No. 2059), and surround the cutlets with a thread of
buttered meat glaze.
1375—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT NAVARRAISE
For twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four oz. of
ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of chopped, red
capsicums; the whole being cohered by means of a very reduced Béchamel
sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.
Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their grilled
side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which should be
shaped like a dome upon them.
Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished; sprinkle the
surface of the preparation, covering them with grated cheese and melted
butter, and place them in the oven, that their cooking may be completed
and the _gratin_ formed. Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes
in oil. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and
border with a thread of tomato sauce.
1376—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT NELSON
Grill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many bread-crumb
_croûtons_ as there are cutlets, and of exactly the same shape as the
latter. Fry the _croûtons_ in butter, and coat them with foie-gras
purée.
Place a grilled cutlet on each coated _croûton_, and a slice of truffle
on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a piping-bag, fitted
with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some soufflé au Parmesan
(No. 2295a); dish them in a circle, and put them in the oven for five
minutes, that the _soufflé_ may poach.
After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre of the dish
with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
1377—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT FARCIES A LA PÉRIGUEUX
Cook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them under slight
pressure.
Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of forcemeat with
butter (No. 193), which should have received a copious addition of
chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat dome-fashion, by means of the
flat of a small knife, dipped in tepid water, and set the cutlets, one
by one, on a tray. Now put them in the front of the oven for seven or
eight minutes that the forcemeat may be poached.
Dish them in a circle, and pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst.
1378—EPIGRAMMES D’AGNEAU
A lamb “epigram” consists of a cutlet, and a piece of braised breast,
cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape of a heart of the
same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the pieces of breast must
be treated _à l’anglaise_, and _sautéd_ or grilled according to
circumstance.
Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the pieces being
alternated.
They are usually garnished with braised chicory, or _macédoines_ of
early-season vegetables.
1379—RIS D’AGNEAU
Lamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either used as the
principal constituent of various preparations, or they answer the
purpose of a garnish.
Due allowance having been made for their particular size, they may be
treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads; that is to say,
once they have been cleared of blood, they are _blanched_ and braised
according to the nature of the selected mode of preparation.
If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means of a
brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they stand as an
adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded or left plain, and
braised white.
Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing constituents,
the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained in the various
preceding series, may be applied to them; viz.:—
_Attereaux_, _Brochettes_, _Croustades_, _Pâté chaud_, _Vol au
vent_, &c.
1380—SAUTÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER
Prepare the following garnish:—Twenty new carrots, cut to the shape
of large olives, cooked in consommé and glazed; twenty pieces of
turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new onions, cooked in butter;
twenty very small new potatoes, cooked in butter (or _à l’anglaise_ if
desired); three tablespoonfuls of peas; the same quantity of French
beans cut into lozenge-form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet
beans. The three last vegetables should be cooked _à l’anglaise_, and
kept rather firm.
Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces weighing
two oz., and completely cook them in butter without any moistening.
This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with three
tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale meat glaze;
heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-half oz. of butter.
Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce, and gently
rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may partake of the sauce.
Serve in a hot timbale.
1381—PILAW D’AGNEAU
Proceed exactly as explained under “Pilaw de Mouton” (No. 1354),
only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking should be
proportionately shortened in view of the greater tenderness of lamb’s
meat.
1382—CURRIE D’AGNEAU
Proceed as for “Currie de Mouton,” after duly allowing, as above, for
the greater tenderness of the meat.
PORK
=Relevés and Entrées.=
1383—FRESH LEG OF PORK
1384—FRESH PORK FILLETS
1385—FRESH NECK OF PORK
Relevés of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois meals.
They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh vegetable
garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purées, and the pastes,
such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I shall, therefore,
give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh Neck of Pork as the
typical joint.
1386—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Roast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few minutes
before it is done.
Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be completed
gently; but remember, that if a stove is not available, the cooking of
the piece should be well finished in the oven; for pork is indigestible
when it is not thoroughly well cooked.
Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No. 2097), and, during the
last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with the fat of the
neck.
Dish the neck; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat, and set it
round the piece of meat in spoonfuls; slightly pressing it in so doing.
1387—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Roast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels sprouts;
completely drain them, and put them round the piece of meat, that they
may complete their cooking in its gravy and fat, being frequently
basted the while.
For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthenware
dish, in which it may be served with its garnish—a much better plan
than that of transferring it to another dish.
1388—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE
Roast the neck of pork; dish it and surround it with a garnish of red
cabbages, prepared à la Flamande (No. 2098).
Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the joint,
three-parts cleared of grease.
1389—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH STEWED APPLES
Roast the neck of pork and see that it is well done.
Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in a saucepan
with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of water; seal the lid
of the saucepan well down, so as to concentrate the steam inside, and
cook quickly. When about to serve, thoroughly work the apple purée with
a wire whisk, in order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy,
three-parts cleared of grease, and serve the apple purée separately in
a timbale.
1390—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA SOISSONNAISE
Roast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table.
When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and well-drained
haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking gently. Serve the dish
as it stands.
1391—BOILED SALTED PORK A L’ANGLAISE
Cook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or gammon of
bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as for boiled beef, and
six parsnips.
Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a pease-pudding
(prepared as directed below) separately.
_Pease-pudding_: put one lb. of a purée of yellow or green, split peas
into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted or softened butter,
three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Pour this purée into a pudding basin, and poach it in steam or in a
_bain-marie_.
This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-dusted
napkin; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion, tying it up
securely with string, and cook the pudding in the same stewpan with the
pork. This procedure is simpler than the first and quite as good.
Very often a purée prepared from split, yellow or green peas, is used
instead of the pudding given above.
1392—PORK PIE
Completely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices
of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sized dish:—(1) one and
one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt and pepper,
and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry Duxelles (No. 223), a
pinch of parsley and another of chopped sage; (2) one and one-half lbs.
of raw, sliced potatoes, and one large, chopped onion.
Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops; cover with
potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and begin again
in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water; cover with a layer of
fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which should be well sealed down
round the edges; _gild_ with beaten egg; streak the paste with the
prongs of a fork; make a slit in the centre of the covering of paste
for the escape of steam, and bake in a moderate oven for about two
hours.
=Fresh-pork Cutlets.=
1393—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA CHARCUTIERE
Season the cutlets; dip them in melted butter, and sprinkle them with
fine raspings. Grill them gently, and baste them from time to time.
Dish them in a circle; pour a Charcutière sauce in their midst, and
serve a timbale of potato purée separately.
_Charcutière sauce for eight or ten cutlets_: prepare one pint of
Robert sauce (No. 52) and mix with it, just before dishing up, two oz.
of gherkins, cut in short _julienne_ fashion or minced.
1394—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA FLAMANDE
Season the cutlets, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.
Meanwhile, peel and slice some eating apples, allowing three oz. of
the latter for each cutlet, and put them in an earthenware dish. Set
upon them the half-fried cutlets; sprinkle with fat, and complete their
cooking, as well as that of the apples, in the oven.
Serve the dish as it stands.
1395—CÔTES DE PORC FRAIS A LA MILANAISE
Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, but remember to add one quart of
grated Parmesan to the bread-crumbs. Cook them gently in butter.
Dish in a circle; set a milanaise garnish (No. 1258) in the centre, and
serve a tomato sauce separately.
1396—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE OR ROBERT SAUCE
Season and grill or _sauté_ the cutlets. Dish them in a circle, with
Piquante or Robert sauce in their midst.
N.B.—(1) Cutlets accompanied by either of the two above-mentioned
sauces, may be treated with melted butter and bread-crumbs and grilled
or _sautéd_; but, in this case, the sauce should be served separately.
(2) For cutlets with Piquante sauce, border the dish on which they are
served with gherkins, and send the sauce either separately or on the
dish.
(3) All the garnishes given under fresh neck of pork may accompany
grilled or _sautéd_ pork cutlets.
1397—SUCKING PIG
Stuffed or not stuffed, sucking pigs are always roasted whole, and the
essential point of the procedure is that they should be just done when
their skin is crisp and golden.
While cooking, they should be frequently basted with oil; the latter
being used in preference to any other fatty substance owing to the
greater crispness it gives to the skin of the sucking pig.
Serve a sauceboat of good gravy at the same time.
1398—ROAST STUFFED SUCKING PIG A L’ANGLAISE
For a sucking pig of medium weight, prepare the following
forcemeat:—Cook three lbs. of large onions with their skins, and let
them cool. This done, peel and finely chop them, and put them in a
basin with one lb. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, one lb. of
soaked and well-pressed bread-crumb, four oz. of parboiled and chopped
sage, two eggs, one oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well, and put this stuffing inside the sucking pig. Sew
up the latter’s belly; put it on the spit, and roast as directed above.
Serve separately, either a timbale of apple sauce or of mashed
potatoes. Four oz. per lb. of selected raisins, washed and swelled in
tepid water, are sometimes combined with the apple sauce.
1399—ZAMPINO DE MODÈNE
Zampino, or stuffed leg of pork, is a product of Italian pork-butchery.
It is cooked like a ham, after having been tied in a napkin lest its
skin burst.
Served hot, it is accompanied by a Madeira or tomato sauce, a garnish
of boiled, braised, or _gratined_ cabbages; of French beans, or of
potato purée.
1400—ZAMPINO FROID
Zampino is served cold, alone or mixed with other meats; but it is
used more particularly as a hors-d’œuvre. For this purpose, cut it into
the thinnest possible slices.
1401—OREILLES A LA ROUENNAISE
After having singed and well cleaned the inside of the pig’s ears, cook
them in water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. of salt per quart,
together with a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. This done, cut
them across in suchwise as to have the end where the flesh is thickest
on one side, and the thinnest end on the other side of the strips.
Chop up the thick portion; cut the other into collops, and put the
whole into a saucepan with one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.
Cook gently for thirty minutes. This done, add to the minced ears,
one and one-half lbs. of sausage meat and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Divide up the whole into portions, weighing three oz; wrap each portion
in a piece of pig’s caul, insert a collop of ear into the wrapping,
and give the latter the shape of ordinary _crépinettes_. Grill gently,
until the cooking is three-parts done; sprinkle with butter and
raspings, and complete the cooking of the _crépinettes_, colouring them
in so doing.
Dish in a circle, and serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.
1402—OREILLES A LA SAINTE MENEHOULD
Cook the ears as explained above, and let them cool.
Cut them in two, lengthwise; coat them with mustard; sprinkle them with
melted butter and raspings, and grill them gently.
Ears are usually served plain, but they may be accompanied by apple
sauce.
1403—PIEDS DE PORC TRUFFÉS
Truffled pig’s trotters may be bought already prepared; all that
remains to be done, therefore, is to grill them.
Sprinkle them with melted butter; grill them very gently, basting them
from time to time the while, and serve them with a Périgueux sauce.
1404—PIEDS DE PORC PANES
Sprinkle the pig’s trotters copiously with melted butter, and put them
on the grill, which should be very hot.
Grill them very gently, turning them with care; and serve them plain,
or with a tomato purée separately.
=Boudins.=
1405—BOUDIN BLANC ORDINAIRE
Chop and afterwards pound one-half lb. of very lean fresh pork, and
three-quarters lb. of fat fresh bacon. Add one and one-half oz. of foie
gras, and rub through a fine sieve.
Put this forcemeat into a basin, and finish it with two fresh eggs;
one and one-half oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without
colouration; one-sixth pint of thick cream; one-half oz. of salt, a
pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well; put it into the gut, without overfilling the
latter, and tie round with string at regular intervals. Now set the
boudins on a willow lattice, and plunge them into a receptacle full of
boiling water. From this moment keep the water at 203° F., and let the
boudins poach for twelve minutes. This done, withdraw them, and let
them cool.
Before serving them, grill them very gently, and, as a precautionary
measure, wrap them in buttered paper. Do not _cisel_ them, but prick
them with a pin.
Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time.
1406—BOUDINS BLANCS DE VOLAILLE
Pound separately one lb. of raw chicken fillets and three-quarters lb.
of fresh fat bacon.
Combine the two products in the mortar; pound again with the view of
thoroughly mixing them, and add three oz. of chopped onion, cooked
in butter without colouration, together with a little thyme and bay;
one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well, and add four eggs, one by one, working the
forcemeat vigorously the while with the pestle.
Rub through a fine sieve; return the forcemeat to the mortar, and add
thereto, little by little, one pint of boiled and very cold milk.
Put the forcemeat into the gut; poach it in the _bain-marie_, and set
it to grill, observing the same precautions as in the preceding recipe.
Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time as the boudins.
1407—BOUDINS NOIRS
Make the following preparation, putting the various ingredients into
a basin:—One lb. of very fresh pork fat, cut into large dice, and
half-melted; one sixth pint of thick cream; two eggs; six oz. of
chopped onions, cooked in lard without colouration; two-thirds oz. of
salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little spice; a pinch of wild-thyme
leaves, and a leaf of bay, both chopped.
Mix the whole well with one pint of blood of pork, and put it into the
gut without over-filling it, for it should be borne in mind that the
preparation swells in poaching.
Set the boudins on willow lattices or baskets; plunge them into boiling
water, and, from that time, keep the latter at 203° F.
Let them poach for twenty minutes, and remember to prick all those
that, by rising to the surface, show they contain air, which might
burst their skins. When about to serve them, _cisel_ them on both
sides, and grill them very gently.
They are generally accompanied by a potato purée with cream.
1408—BOUDINS NOIRS A L’ANGLAISE
Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, given above,
and add to it three-quarters lb. of rice, cooked in consommé and kept
somewhat firm. Poach as before, and leave to cool. _Cisel_ the boudins,
and grill them over a moderate fire.
Serve very hot with an apple purée.
1409—BOUDINS NOIRS A LA FLAMANDE
Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, and add to it
three oz. of moist sugar, two oz. of raisins, and the same quantity of
currants, washed and swelled in lukewarm water.
Put the preparation into the gut, and poach in the usual way.
When about to serve, grill these boudins gently, after the manner of
black boudins, and send them to the table with a sugared apple sauce.
=Crépinettes and Sausages.=
1410—CRÉPINETTES TRUFFÉES
Add to two lbs. of very good sausage-meat, four oz. of chopped
truffles, and two tablespoonfuls of truffles cooking-liquor. Mix the
whole well; divide into portions weighing two and one-half oz., and
wrap each portion in a square of pig’s caul. Shape the _crépinettes_
thus formed rectangularly. Sprinkle with melted butter, and grill
gently.
Dish them in a circle; pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst, and serve
a potato purée with cream separately.
1411—CRÉPINETTES A LA CENDRILLON
Prepare the _crépinettes_ as above; wrap them in a double sheet of
buttered paper; over them set a heap of cinders covered with burning
embers, and keep the latter alive for a space of twenty minutes, when
the cooking operation should be completed.
Formerly, the above was the mode of procedure, but nowadays the
crépinettes are merely enveloped, each in an oval layer of paste. They
are then _gilded_, their tops are streaked, and, after having been laid
on a tray, they are baked in a warm oven for twenty minutes.
This done, they are dished on a napkin.
1412—SAUCISSES ANGLAISES
The most well-known of English sausages are those of Cambridge.
They are cooked like the French kind, and they are often served at
breakfasts as an adjunct to bacon. Sometimes, too, they serve as a
garnish to roast fowls, young turkeys, &c.
Their seasoning is often excessive.
1413—SAUCISSES AU VIN BLANC
_First Method._—Put the sausages in a well-buttered sautépan; poach
them gently in the oven, and dish them on thin crusts of bread fried in
butter.
For twelve sausages, swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white
wine; reduce this to half; add one-sixth pint of half-glaze sauce;
boil for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with one and
one-half oz. of butter. Pour this sauce over the sausages.
_Second Method._—Stiffen the sausages in butter; add one-third pint
of white wine, and complete their poaching. Set them on fried crusts;
reduce the wine by two-thirds, and add thereto the yolk of one egg, a
few drops of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of pale melted meat-glaze,
and three oz. of butter. Pour the sauce over the sausages.
1414—SAUCISSES DE FRANCFORT ET DE STRASBOURG
Plunge the sausages into a saucepanful of boiling water, and then poach
them for no more than ten minutes; should they be allowed to cook for a
longer time, they would only lose their quality.
They may be served with a hors-d’œuvre dish of grated horse-radish,
and an apple sauce separately; but their proper adjunct is braised
sauerkraut.
=Ham.=
However deservedly pork may be praised, it could never have been
included among the preparations of first-class cookery (except
subsidiarily) had it not been for the culinary value of hams.
With the latter it triumphs, and, be they of Bayonne or York, of
Prague or Westphalia, no other joints enjoy more favour than these as
Relevés.
Though it is somewhat difficult to decide which one of the various
kinds of ham should be adopted, in my opinion that of Bohemia, known as
Prague ham, is best for a warm dish, and that of York for a cold dish.
The latter is also excellent when served hot, but, even so, for this
purpose it is inferior to the Prague kind, the delicacy of which is
incomparable.
Still, York ham ranks first in the opinion of many, for it should
be remembered that England has no rival in the preparation of
seasoned pork, and her famous bacon, the renown of which is enormous,
constitutes one of the greatest discoveries in the science of
gastronomy.
1415—HOT HAM—Its Preparation
York ham is the kind chiefly used.
After having soaked it in cold water for six hours, brush it and remove
the pelvic bone; put it into a stewpan of cold water, and set to boil.
This done, keep the water just simmering, that the ham may cook after
the poaching method.
There is no need of any seasoning or aromatic garnish. As often as
possible, leave the ham to cool in its cooking-liquor. If the ham is
to be braised, take it out of the water thirty minutes before it is
cooked. Skin it; clear it of any superfluous fat, and put it in a
braising-pan, just large enough to hold it, with two-thirds pint of
some such wine as Madeira, Port, Xeres, Chypre, &c. Select the wine in
accordance with the title of the dish on the menu.
Having thoroughly sealed down the lid of the pan, put it in the oven,
and continue the cooking of the ham gently for one hour, turning it
over from time to time during the operation. If it have to reach the
table whole, glaze it at the last moment.
Its usual adjunct is a light and highly seasoned half-glaze sauce,
combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.
1416—JAMBON A LA CHANOINESSE
Having poached the ham as explained above, braise it in white wine,
adding thereto three oz. of mushroom parings.
Dish and send separately a garnish of large, fresh noodles, cohered
with butter and a Soubise purée, and completed with a _julienne_ of
truffles.
Serve separately a half-glaze sauce, combined with the braising-liquor,
cleared of all grease and reduced.
1417—JAMBON A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Completely cook the ham by poaching; skin and trim it.
_If served whole_, send, separately, some braised sauerkraut and
potatoes, freshly cooked _à l’anglaise_. Serve a half-glaze sauce with
Rhine wine at the same time.
_If served already carved_, arrange the slices in a circle on a round
dish; put the sauerkraut in their midst, and border with the potatoes.
Serve, separately, the same sauce as before.
1418—JAMBON A LA MAILLOT
Poach the ham; braise it, and glaze it at the last moment. Set it on
a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged
in alternate heaps:—Carrots and turnips, cut to the shape of large,
elongated olives, cooked separately in consommé, and glazed; small
onions cooked in butter; braised and trimmed half-lettuces; peas and
French beans cohered with butter separately.
Serve apart a thickened gravy combined with some of the braising-liquor,
cleared of all grease.
1419—JAMBON A LA PRAGUE SOUS LA CENDRE
Poach the ham and drain it on a dish. Remove the skin and all the
black, outside parts. Prepare a piece of patty paste large enough
to enclose the ham. Besprinkle the surface of the ham with powdered
sugar; glaze quickly at the salamander, and place the ham (glazed side
undermost) on the layer of paste.
Draw the ends of the paste towards each other; seal them together,
with the help of a little moisture, in such wise as to enclose the ham
completely; turn the latter over, and put it on a tray with the sealed
side of the paste lying underneath. _Gild_ and streak, make a slit in
the middle of the paste for the escape of steam, and put the joint in
the oven.
Leave it there until the paste is dry and well coloured. After taking
the ham out of the oven, inject into it, through a prepared hole, a
large wineglassful of Port wine or Sherry. Stop up the hole with a
little pellet of paste; dish, and serve immediately.
Serve at the same time a garnish of Gnochi, spinach, or Soufflé au
Parmesan (No. 2295a).
The best adjunct to Prague ham is a very light glaze prepared with Port
wine, and buttered at the last minute.
1419a—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA METTERNICH
Prepare a ham “sous la cendre” as described above.
Send to the table with it as many fine collops of foie-gras, tossed
in butter and each covered with a nice slice of truffle, as there are
diners. Send also a timbale of asparagus-heads.
The waiter in charge then puts a slice of ham, a collop of foie-gras,
and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads on each plate and serves.
The sauce should be a Madeira flavoured with truffle essence.
1419b—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA NORFOLK
Prepare a ham as in No. 1419. Serve each slice of it with one collop
of braised veal sweetbread and one tablespoonful of fresh peas _à la
paysanne_.
Send as an adjunct the braising-liquor of the veal sweetbread.
1420—VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR BRAISED HAM
The garnishes best suited to ham relevés are:—
_Spinach; new broad beans; braised lettuce; endives; fresh peas à la
paysanne._
_Noodles; Spaghetti; various Macaronis; Gnochi; Purées of fresh beans,
broad beans._
The most usual accompanying sauce is half-glaze with Madeira.
1421—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ
This is a variety of the ham _soufflés_ given hereafter. The
preparation used is the same, and it may be made either from raw or
from cooked ham.
After having completely boned it, but for the end bone, which must be
kept, cook the ham, and cool it.
Now cut it horizontally, one-half inch above its bone, from the
extremity of the end bone to the head of the latter. At the
last-mentioned point, make a vertical incision meeting and ending at
the first; remove the cushion of ham, which should by now be quite
separated from the rest of the joint, and put aside for some future
purpose.
All that remains of the ham, therefore, is a thick piece adhering to
the end-bone. Carefully trim this piece, and surround it with a strong
band of buttered paper, tied on by means of string, the purpose of
which is to hold in the soufflé.
This done, put a sufficient quantity of soufflé de Jambon (described
hereafter) on the remaining meat of the ham to reconstruct it entirely.
Smooth the surface of the preparation with the flat of a knife (dipped
in cold water), and so finish off the contour of the ham. Decorate
according to fancy; place the dish containing the ham on a saucepanful
of boiling water, and put the two in the oven with the view of
obtaining the maximum amount of steam, which latter helps to poach the
_soufflé_. This _souffléd_ ham may be poached just as well in a steamer.
When the preparation is properly poached, remove the band of paper;
dish the ham, and send one of the garnishes or sauces given for braised
ham separately.
1422—SOUFFLÉS AU JAMBON
Ham _soufflés_ are prepared after two recipes; in the first, cooked
ham is used, and in the second the ham is raw. This last procedure is
derived from _mousseline_ forcemeat, and, inasmuch as the preparation
resulting from it is less flimsy than that of the first, it is
preferred when a large number of people have to be served.
1423—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH COOKED HAM
Finely pound one lb. of lean, cooked ham, and add thereto, one after
the other, three tablespoonfuls of very cold Béchamel sauce. Rub
through a fine sieve; put the resulting purée into a sautépan, and
finish with one-quarter pint of very creamy and boiling Béchamel sauce,
flavoured with ham essence; four egg-yolks, and the whites of six eggs,
beaten to a stiff froth.
This preparation may be combined with three oz. of grated Parmesan, and
the two flavours will be found to blend very agreeably.
Prepared in this way, it is particularly well suited to the “Jambon
Soufflé,” the recipe whereof is given above (No. 1421).
1424—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH RAW HAM
Following the quantities given under “Farce mousseline” (No. 195),
make the _soufflé_ preparation, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of
reduced and very cold Béchamel sauce per lb. of raw ham.
Keep the forcemeat somewhat stiff, and finish it with the whites of
four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, per lb. of ham.
1425—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA
Make the _soufflé_ preparation after one of the methods given above.
Spread it in layers in a buttered timbale, alternating the layers of
_soufflé_ with others of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. Smooth
the surface to the shape of a dome; decorate with a fine slice of
truffle, and cook in a moderate oven, of a temperature suited to this
kind of preparation. Serve the _soufflé_ as soon as it is ready. If it
be small, spread only one layer of asparagus-heads in the middle of it.
If it be large, spread two or three layers of asparagus-heads.
1426—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON CARMEN
Add to the selected one of the two _soufflé_ preparations—either will
do—for one lb. of ham, the purée of one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes,
cooked in butter with one half-capsicum, rubbed through a sieve and
very much reduced.
Dish the _soufflé_ in a buttered timbale; sprinkle the surface with
a pinch of red capsicum, cut in fine _julienne_ fashion, and cook as
described above.
1427—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON GASTRONOME
Dish the selected ham _soufflé_ preparation in layers in a buttered
timbale, and between each layer of it spread a litter of noodles,
tossed in butter.
Sprinkle the surface with chopped truffles; set a ball of truffle well
in the centre of the _soufflé_, and cook in the usual way.
1428—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON MILANAISE
Dish the ham _soufflé_ preparation in a buttered timbale, and spread it
in alternate layers with a fine garnish à la Milanaise (No. 1258).
Deck the surface with small pieces of poached macaroni, fried in
butter; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook the _soufflé_ in a
moderate oven.
1429—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON PERIGOURDINE
Dish the soufflé preparation in layers in a buttered timbale, and
between each layer spread a litter of truffle slices. Besprinkle the
surface with chopped truffles, and cook the _soufflé_ in the usual way.
1430—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES CHAUDES DE JAMBON
_Mousses_ and _Mousselines_ are made from the same preparation as
“Farce mousseline de jambon,” in pursuance of the general principles
given under No. 195.
The need of differentiating the terms arises from the fact that
_mousses_ are poached in a mould the contents of which are sufficient
for a number of people, whereas _mousselines_ are spoon-moulded
quenelles, shaped like eggs.
In the preparation of “Farce mousseline de jambon” it is necessary to
allow, in the salt seasoning, for the amount of salting the ham has
already received.
If the meat of the ham is not very red, the colour of the forcemeat may
be intensified by means of a little vegetable red, in order that it may
be of a distinct pink shade.
1431—TREATMENT AND ACCOMPANIMENT OF HAM MOUSSE
Put the forcemeat in a deep border-mould, somewhat like a Charlotte,
and poach it under cover in a _bain-marie_.
That the poaching may be regular, keep in water at a constant
temperature of 205° or 208° Fahrenheit, and allow forty-five minutes
for the operation in the case of a _mousse_ made in a quart mould.
The preparation is seen to be cooked when it swells and rises in the
mould.
As soon as this occurs, withdraw the latter from the _bain-marie_;
let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle; turn it
upside-down on a dish, and wait two minutes before removing the mould.
In any case, do not take off the mould until the liquid which has
drained from it, all round the dish, has been soaked up. Ham _mousses_
are chiefly accompanied by Suprême sauce, or Veloutés with curry or
paprika; sometimes, too, a highly-seasoned and buttered half-glaze
sauce, with Madeira, Port, or Marsala may be used. The most suitable
garnishes for ham _mousses_ are those I have already given for Ham.
1432—TREATMENT AND POACHING OF HAM MOUSSELINES
As I have already stated, _mousselines_, like quenelles, are moulded
with a spoon.
They may also be laid, by means of a piping-bag, on the bottom of
the well-buttered sautépan in which they are to be poached; they are
shaped like meringues, even or grooved, and, in either case, they are
decorated with lozenges, crescents, or discs, &c., of ham or truffle.
Having carried out the selected method of preparation, cover them with
boiling water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. per quart, and
poach them for from eighteen to twenty minutes, taking care to keep the
water at a constant temperature of 208° F. These _mousselines_ may also
be poached dry in a steamer or in a drying stove.
1433—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA
Decorate the _mousselines_, prepared according to one of the two
methods above described, with one lozenge of ham and another of
truffle. Poach them; drain them well, and dish them in the form of a
crown. Cover them with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with ham essence,
and combined with two oz. of grated Parmesan per pint of the sauce, and
glaze quickly.
After taking the _mousselines_ out of the oven, set in their midst a
heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
1434—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA FLORENTINE
Spread a layer of shredded spinach, fried in butter, on a dish.
Upon it set the poached and well-drained _mousselines_; cover them with
the same sauce as that prescribed for the “Mousselines Alexandra,” and
glaze them quickly.
1435—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA HONGROISE
Poach the _mousselines_, the forcemeat of which must be flavoured with
paprika. Drain them; dish them in a circle; cover them with Hongroise
sauce, and glaze them quickly.
On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set a fine heap of baked
cauliflowers with cheese in the middle of it.
1436—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON AUX PETITS POIS
Proceed exactly as described under No. 1433, but substitute for the
asparagus-heads a garnish of very small peas cohered with butter.
=Cold Ham.=
1437—JAMBON FROID A LA GELÉE
When ham is to be dished cold, it should, if possible, be allowed to
cool in its cooking-liquor, except when it has to be boned. In the
latter case, take it out as soon as it is cooked; incise it underneath,
following the edge of the cushion; detach and remove the bones.
Now roll up the ham; bind it tightly in a piece of linen, and cool it
under pressure.
Whether boned or unboned, skin it when it is cold; remove some of its
fat, and sprinkle it with cold, melted aspic until the latter covers it
evenly.
Dish it up; fix a frill to it, and surround it with fine aspic dice.
1438—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ FROID
Proceed exactly as in No. 1421, but substitute for the _soufflé_
preparation therein described the cold ham _mousse_ below.
1439—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON
_The Preparation of the Mousse._—Finely pound one lb. of very lean,
cooked ham; add to it one-third pint of cold Velouté, and rub through a
fine sieve.
Put the resulting purée into a basin; season it; work it on ice for a
few minutes, and mix therewith, little by little, one-quarter pint of
melted aspic. Finally combine two-thirds pint of half-beaten cream with
it.
The _mousse_ may be moulded, either in an aspic-_clothed_ mould,
decorated with truffles, as explained under No. 956, or in small
_cassolettes_, lined with a thin strip of paper inside their brims,
after the manner of small, cold _soufflés_.
As the dishing and serving of _mousses_ are always the same, the reader
is begged to refer to those recipes dealing with the question.
1440—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON A L’ALSACIENNE
Take a deep, square dish and garnish it, half-full, with fine, ham
_mousse_. Even the surface of this layer of _mousse_, and, when it has
set, arrange upon it some shells, raised by means of a spoon dipped
in hot water, from a foie-gras Parfait. As soon as this is done, pour
over the foie-gras shells, a sufficient quantity to cover them of
half-melted succulent chicken aspic with Madeira, and let this jelly
set.
When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.
1441—MOUSSE DE JAMBON AU BLANC DE POULET
Garnish a deep, square dish with some ham _mousse_. When the latter
has set, arrange thereon the _suprêmes_ of a very white, poached fowl.
These _suprêmes_, cut into regular collops, should be coated with a
white chaud-froid sauce.
Cover with aspic, as directed under “Mousse à l’Alsacienne,” and serve.
N.B.—If desired, the collops need not be coated with chaud-froid sauce,
but, in this case, they should be covered with aspic.
1442—MOUSSELINES FROIDES DE JAMBON
These _mousselines_ are made from the same preparation as that used for
the _mousse_, and, but for the basic ingredient, which is not the same,
they are treated after the manner described under “Petites Mousses de
Homard” (No. 958). To avoid needless repetition, therefore, the reader
will kindly substitute the word ham for lobster in the recipe just
referred to.
CHAPTER XVI
POULTRY (VOLAILLE)
Although the term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense,
implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only
the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word
“Volaille” appears on a menu.
Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its
part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. We
have:—
(1) _Pullets and capons_; usually served whole, either as relevés or
roasts.
(2) _Chickens_, so-called “à la Reine”; used for _sautés_ and chiefly
for roasts.
(3) _Spring chickens_; best suited to _en cocotte_ or grilled
preparations.
(4) _Chicks_; served only _en cocotte_ or grilled.
_Suprêmes_ and _ailerons_ of fowl, which are among the finest entrées,
are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.
Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks,
gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of
preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of
the series.
1443—PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVÉS
Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached or _poëled_;
sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.
The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded
back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed
with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with
thin slices of larding bacon.
The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No. 249.
The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick
on the leg is white or faintly pink.
These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done,
dip the legs and belly of a trussed and lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling
white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to
allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for
studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue,
truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the
larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.
_Poëled fowls_ are trussed as above; they are covered with slices
of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the
first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter on
_poëling_-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When
the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich
poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with
Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting
of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly.
After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the
sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.
_Braised fowls_ are always treated after the manner described under
No. 248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with
slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick,
notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would
shrivel by the time the legs cooked.
The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether
these be poached, poëled, braised or roasted.
1444—THE WAY TO SERVE POULTRY RELEVÉS QUICKLY AND HOT
I feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important
point in culinary work:—
Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and
the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the
consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and
expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks
to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have
noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large
pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.
For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a
plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently
hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a
chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have
tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving
which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily
being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.
In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s two
_suprêmes_, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little
cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones
of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping
with the dish, _i.e._, either a _mousseline_ forcemeat, pilaff rice
combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with
cream.
Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl
may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a
low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.
It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated
cheese, and speedily glazed.
When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round
it in fine, tartlet crusts; its _suprêmes_, quickly sliced, should be
distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the
sauce separately.
By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and
cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only,
as was so often the case formerly.
Instead of tartlets, one may use thin _croûtons_ of bread, of the size
of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.
Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with
rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed the _suprêmes_;
all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the
fowl on a cushion.
This done, prepare as many _croûtons_ and slices of foie-gras, _sautéd_
in butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the
slices of foie-gras lying on the _croûtons_. Now, quickly cut the
_suprêmes_ into slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras,
and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus
prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send
it to the table with the sauce separately.
In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnished
_croûtons_ on hot plates, beside each _croûton_ he puts a tablespoonful
of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a
tablespoonful of sauce.
In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the
pullet is thus served warm to each person.
Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished
whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn
from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square
entrée dish (fitted with a cover), and surrounded by the sliced
_suprêmes_, with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The
sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that
it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.
The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in
the kitchen together with the carcass.
I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever
the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the
only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire
satisfaction to all concerned.
1445—POULARDE ALBUFERA
Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No. 2256, and poach it.
Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.
Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by
means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small
button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra
sauce.
Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape
of a cock’s comb.
1446—POULARDE ALEXANDRA
Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.
This done, remove the _suprêmes_, and replace them by _mousseline_
forcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in
so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.
Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and
surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter; place a collop of the reserved _suprêmes_ (which should
have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread
of pale glaze.
1447—POULARDE AMBASSADRICE
Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No. 227), wrap
it in muslin, and braise it.
Remove the _suprêmes_; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the
carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and
arrange this garnish as already described under No. 1444.
Slice the _suprêmes_, and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as
to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat
stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb
sweet-breads, studded with truffles, braised and glazed, and alternate
the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.
1448—POULARDE ANDALOUSE
_Poële_ the pullet. Dish it, and coat it with its _poëling_-liquor,
combined with _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some
capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned,
dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.
1449—POULARDE A L’ANGLAISE
Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with
chicken-essence.
Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion
on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of
balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should
be cooked _à l’anglaise_; _i.e._, either in boiling water or in steam.
1450—POULARDE A L’AURORE
Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an
“Aurore Sauce” (No. 60). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated
quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according
to fancy.
1451—POULARDE A LA BEAUFORT
Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for
twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.
Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with
truffles, and braise it in short moistening.
Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues,
alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise
purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.
1452—POULARDE BOUILLIE A L’ANGLAISE
Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon
and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with
the bacon, cut into slices.
Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the
pullet’s cooking-liquor.
1453—POULARDE AUX CÉLERIS
_Poële_ the pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation
with strong veal stock.
Prepare a garnish of braised celery.
Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the
latter with the _poëling_-liquor.
1454—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BRUN
_Poële_ the pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add
this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with
Madeira.
Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked
mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add
two oz. of fresh butter.
1455—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BLANC
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom
essence.
Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.
1456—POULARDE CHANOINESSE
Prepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No. 1518. Dish it, and
surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with
small _croûtons_ of fried bread, on each of which place a collop of the
_suprêmes_. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of the
_suprêmes_.
Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.
1457—POULARDE CHÂTELAINE
_Poële_ the pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.
Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter
and garnished with Soubise.
Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in
consommé and glazed.
Pour a little thickened _poëling_-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and
serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.
1458—POULARDE CHEVALIÈRE
Remove the _suprêmes_, and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two
rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make
five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into
each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together
in suchwise as to form two rings. Put the _suprêmes_ and the minion
fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.
Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone
them to within one and one-third inches of the joints, and cut off the
claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions
with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few
stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to
imitate a small duck.
Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.
Also poach the _suprêmes_ and the minion fillets in good time, with a
little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.
With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a fried _croûton_ (the
shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the
middle of a dish.
Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the two
_suprêmes_; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view
of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and,
between the latter and the _suprêmes_, lay small heaps of cocks’ combs
and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce the _croûton_
with a _hatelet_ garnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and
a large mushroom.
Serve a suprême sauce separately.
N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white
English paste, or with a chased silver border.
1459—POULARDE CHIMAY
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in
butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut
into large dice.
_Poële_ it gently; dish it, and coat it with some of its
_poëling_-liquor, thickened.
Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles, _sautéd_
in clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickened
_poëling_-liquor separately.
1460—POULARDE CHIPOLATA
_Poële_ the pullet and put it into a _terrine à pâté_ with a garnish
consisting of small, glazed onions; chipolata sausages, poached in
butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if
desired, some small glazed carrots.
Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before
serving.
1461—POULARDE A LA CHIVRY
Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No. 78).
Serve a _Macédoine_ of new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream,
separately.
1462—POULARDE CUSSY
Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles,
cooked in _Mirepoix_ with Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled
mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.
In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a
pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.
1463—POULARDE EN DEMI-DEUIL
Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices
of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.
When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce
it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of
truffle.
Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains,
separately, in a sauceboat.
1464—POULARDE DEMIDOFF
_Poële_ the pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into a
_cocotte_ and surround it with the following garnish, prepared in
advance and stewed in butter; viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz.
of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz.
of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.
Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to
it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of
crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.
Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_, after having cleared the liquor
of all grease.
1465—POULARDE DERBY
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256; and _poële_
it. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter
(each set on a small, fried _croûton_), and alternate these with large,
whole truffles, cooked in champagne.
As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all
grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth
pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with
arrow-root.
1466—POULARDE DIVA
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it without colouration.
Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.
Send a garnish consisting of _cèpes_ with cream, separately.
N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the
great singer.
1467—POULARDE DEVONSHIRE
Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a
chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight
of very fine sausage-meat.
In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue,
trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin
end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.
Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin
sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which
swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding
bacon, poach, and drain it.
When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point
of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed
horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the
piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s
tongue.
Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low
cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has
been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected.
Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to
reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.
Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut
into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée
of fresh peas (No. 2196), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a
sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.
1468—POULARDE A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well
drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine
sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in
butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.
Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise
sauce, _i.e._, an Allemande sauce, combined with a _brunoise_ of
vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the
reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.
Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.
1469—POULARDE ÉDOUARD VII
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a curry sauce,
combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.
Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.
N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of
His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.
1470—POULARDE EN ESTOUFFADE
Half-_poële_ the pullet in a saucepan.
Line the bottom and sides of an oval _cocotte_ with thin slices of
ham. Put the half-_poëled_ pullet into this _cocotte_, together with
one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in
butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.
Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to
half; put this reduced stock into the _cocotte_; cover the latter; seal
down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the
pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.
1471—POULARDE A L’ESTRAGON
Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of
five or six sprigs of tarragon.
Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray of _blanched_
tarragon leaves.
Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.
1472—POULARDE A LA FAVORITE
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe
No. 2256.
Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.
Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of
truffle.
1473—POULARDE A LA FERMIÈRE
Prepare the pullet as for No. 1470; but, instead of lining the
_cocotte_ with slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these
to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French
beans, cut into small lozenges.
1474—POULARDE A LA FINANCIÈRE
Braise the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps
of quenelles made from chicken, _mousseline_ forcemeat; grooved,
button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; slices of truffle, and
_blanched_ olives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared
with truffle essence.
Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.
1475—POULARDE A LA GASTRONOME
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in
butter, and _poële_ it.
Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet
and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne,
alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a
cock’s kidney between each heap.
Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence
and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.
1476—POULARDE A LA GODARD
Braise the pullet brown.
Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat,
combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles,
decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads;
cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and
olive-shaped truffles.
Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some
reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a
sauceboat.
1477—POULARDE A LA GRAMMONT
Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.
Now remove the _suprêmes_ and the bones of the breast; fill up the
cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets,
_sautéd_ just before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’
combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce,
finished with truffle essence.
Slice the _suprêmes_, and return them to their place, setting a slice
of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce;
sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and
serve at once.
1478—POULARDE GRAND HÔTEL
Cut up the fowl as for a _sauté_ dish, and cook it in butter, under
cover. Then set the pieces in a very hot _cocotte_, and distribute
thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly
salted and peppered.
Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a
little chicken stock; pour this liquor into the _cocotte_; thoroughly
close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten
minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.
Serve the preparation as it stands in the _cocotte_.
N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a
means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of
truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the
latter.
1479—POULARDE AU GROS SEL
Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten
small onions.
Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged
in small heaps.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor,
and a cellar of kitchen salt.
1480—POULARDE A LA GRECQUE
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2253, and _poële_
it.
Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened
by means of arrowroot.
1481—POULARDE A LA HONGROISE
_Poële_ the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of
pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.
Send a Hongroise sauce separately.
1482—POULARDE AUX HUÎTRES
Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked.
With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto
the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters,
one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their
beards).
Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.
1483—POULARDE A L’INDIENNE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à
l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No. 2254, separately.
1484—POULARDE ISABELLE DE FRANCE
Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices
and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing
one bottle of Chablis wine.
With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned suprême
sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and
surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each
on a small, round, and slightly hollowed _croûton_ of fried bread.
Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.
1485—POULARDE A L’IVOIRE
Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.
Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s
cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles
with cream _cèpes_, cucumber, &c.
1486—POULARDE LADY CURZON
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it.
Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.
A garnish of _cèpes_ or cucumber with cream may be served at the same
time.
1487—POULARDE LOUISE D’ORLÉANS
Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been
studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent
veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwards cooled.
Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven,
sprinkling it with butter the while.
Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with
slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which
should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a
baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of
steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one
and three-quarter hours.
This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.
1488—POULARDE A LA LOUISIANE
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one
and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, and _poële_ it. Dish it
and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas,
arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set a _croustade_ of
lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”
1489—POULARDE A LA LUCULLUS
Braise the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne,
alternated with (2) large, round quenelles of _mousseline_ forcemeat.
At either end of the dish, which should be oval, set a small silver
shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.
Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’
kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce,
flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some
of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.
1490—POULARDE A LA MANCINI
Poach the pullet.
Remove the _suprêmes_; suppress the bones of the breast without
touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus
prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be
steady.
Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and
combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of a
_julienne_ of truffles.
Slice the _suprêmes_, and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a
fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and
unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at
the salamander.
Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.
1491—POULARDE MARGUERITE DE SAVOIE
Fry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet,
and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal
quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No. 2294); spread it on a tray
in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round
cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before
serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified
butter.
Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze
them quickly at the salamander.
Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it
with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s
cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it
in a sauceboat.
Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles,
slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.
1492—POULARDE A LA MÉNAGÈRE
Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six
carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a
saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid
of the saucepan off. When the vegetables are cooked, and the liquor is
sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special oval _cocotte_, and
cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.
1493—POULARDE MIREILLE
_Poële_ the pullet.
Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron,
alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes
cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.
Serve a tomato sauce separately.
1494—POULARDE A LA MONTBAZON
Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached
lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles of _mousseline_, chicken
forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.
Serve a suprême sauce separately.
1495—POULARDE A LA MONTE CARLO
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side
with quenelles of pink, _mousseline_, chicken forcemeat, and on the
other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.
1496—POULARDE A LA MONTMORENCY
Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.
Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a
fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some
artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the
braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.
1497—POULARDE A LA NANTUA
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter,
and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter,
crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.
1498—POULARDE A L’ORIENTALE
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.
Remove its _suprêmes_; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors,
without touching the rice, and coat the latter with Béchamel sauce
coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.
Dish; reconstruct the sliced _suprêmes_ on the rice, and set between
each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with
the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters
of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.
1499—POULARDE AUX ŒUFS D’OR
_Poële_ the pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.
Strain the _poëling_-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto
a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with
three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.
Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of
egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.
1500—POULARDE A LA PARISIENNE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with
slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.
Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of
which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other
half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.
Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish
with a thread of pale glaze.
1501—POULARDE ADELINA PATTI
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a
suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized
artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale
meat glaze.
Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in
coating the pullet.
1502—POULARDE A LA PAYSANNE
Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an oval _cocotte_.
Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of
a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three
minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the
vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.
Serve the preparation as it stands in the _cocotte_.
1503—POULARDE A LA PÉRIGORD
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large
olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot,
with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String
the piece, taking care to close all its openings, and _poële_ it gently.
Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from the
_poëling_-liquor and finished with truffle essence.
1504—POULARDE PETITE MARIÉE
Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting
it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new
potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.
Set the pullet in a _cocotte_ with the garnish of vegetables, and
coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent
suprême sauce.
1505—POULARDE A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with
one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, and _poële_ it in the usual way.
Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which
has been added the reduced _poëling_-liquor.
1506—POULARDE A LA PORTUGAISE
Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with
five oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, cooked in butter.
_Poële_ the pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce,
combined with the _poëling_-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of
medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”
1507—POULARDE PRINCESSE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom
essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint
of sauce. Surround it with _croustades_ of Duchesse potatoes, rolled
in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with
asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine
slice of truffle. Between each _croustade_ set a faggot of very green
asparagus-heads.
1508—POULARDE PRINCESSE HÉLÈNE
Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No. 2256), and poach
it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinach
_subrics_, cooked at the last moment; add to this garnish some shavings
of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed
behind the fowl.
1509—POULARDE RÉGENCE
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken,
combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence,
and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in small
heaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles of _mousseline_, chicken forcemeat;
white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with
a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and
very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle
decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.
1510—POULARDE DE LA REINE ANNE
_Poële_ the pullet.
When it is ready, remove the _suprêmes_ and the breast bones, and fill
the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie
gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze
quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.
Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs
and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of the
_suprêmes_ on each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of
truffles behind the fowl.
Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
1511—POULARDE REINE MARGOT
Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of
chicken, combined with two oz. of almond purée, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, finished with a little almond
milk, and surround it with quenelles prepared with pistachio butter and
quenelles prepared with crayfish butter, arranged alternately.
1512—POULARDE REINE MARGUERITE
Poach the pullet.
Remove the _suprêmes_ and the breast bone, without touching either the
wings or the legs, and set the carcass, thus trimmed, on a low cushion
of bread or rice. Finely slice the _suprêmes_; add as many slices of
truffle as there are collops of _suprêmes_, and combine the whole with
a _soufflé_ preparation with Parmesan, which should not be too light.
Reconstruct the pullet with this preparation; smooth the surface, and
surround the base of the pullet with a band of paper, so that it may
keep its form. Set some thin slices of Gruyère cheese upon it; dish it,
and cook it in a moderately hot oven.
1513—POULARDE AU RIZ
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with chicken
essence. Surround it with a garnish of rice, cooked in the pullet’s
poaching-liquor, and moulded in small, buttered, timbale moulds.
1514—POULARDE ROSSINI
_Poële_ the pullet.
Remove the _suprêmes_; slice them, and dish them in the form of a crown
upon a round dish, alternating them with collops of foie gras, tossed
in butter. Pour a very strong chicken stock finished with truffle
essence in their midst.
Serve, separately, a timbale of noodles with butter covered with raw
noodles tossed in butter.
1515—POULARDE SAINTE ALLIANCE
Heat in butter ten fine truffles seasoned with salt and pepper;
sprinkle them with a glassful of excellent Madeira, and leave them to
cool thus in a thoroughly sealed utensil. Now put these truffles into a
fine pullet, and _poële_ it just in time for it to be sent to the table.
When the pullet is ready, quickly cook as many ortolans, and toss in
butter as many collops of foie gras as there are diners, and send them
to the table at the same time as the pullet, together with the latter’s
_poëling_-liquor, strained and in a sauceboat.
The waiter in charge should be ready for it with three assistants at
hand, and he should have a very hot chafer on the sideboard. The moment
it arrives he quickly removes the _suprêmes_, cuts them into slices,
and sets each one of these upon a collop of foie gras, which assistant
No. 1 has placed ready on a plate, together with one of the truffles
inserted into the pullet at the start.
Assistant No. 2, to whom the plate is handed forthwith, adds an ortolan
and a little juice, and then assistant No. 3 straightway places the
plate before the diner.
The pullet is thus served very quickly, and in such wise as to render
it a dish of very exceptional gastronomical quality.
N.B.—The name “Sainte Alliance” which I give to this dish (a name
that Brillat-Savarin employs in his “Physiology of Taste” in order
to identify a certain famous toast) struck me as an admirable title
for a preparation in which four such veritable gems of cookery are
found united—the _suprêmes_ of a fine pullet, foie gras, truffles, and
ortolans.
This dish was originally served at the Carlton Hotel in 1905.
1516—POULARDE SANTA-LUCIA
Stuff the pullet with truffles, prepared as for No. 1515, and braise
it in Marsala. Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with small
tartlets of Gnochi “à la Romaine,” alternated with collops of foie
gras, tossed in butter.
1517—POULARDE SICILIENNE
Poach the pullet.
Raise the fillets, leaving the wing-bones on the carcass; suppress the
breast bones, and fill the resulting cavity with macaroni, cohered with
the strong liquor of braised beef “à la Napolitaine,” and combined with
dice of truffles and foie gras, cocks’ combs and kidneys.
Envelop the piece in pig’s caul, giving the former its natural shape;
sprinkle with raspings and melted butter, and set in the oven that the
pig’s caul may cook and colour.
Dish on a low cushion, and coat with chicken glaze with butter.
Surround with tartlet crusts, each garnished with a slice of the
_suprêmes_, covered with a slice of foie gras tossed in butter, and
surmounted by a slice of truffle.
Send a chicken glaze with butter separately.
1518—POULARDE SOUFFLÉE
Poach the pullet.
Raise the _suprêmes_, and cut them into thin slices; suppress
the breast-bones by means of scissors, and stuff the bird with
one lb. two oz. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken, combined with
one-third lb. of foie-gras purée. Spread this preparation in layers,
and between each of the latter set alternate slices of _suprême_ and
truffle.
Reconstruct the bird exactly; smooth its surface; deck it with bits of
truffle, salted tongue, and boiled white of egg; place the dish on a
deep tray containing a little boiling water, the steam of which assists
the poaching of the preparation, and poach in a moderate oven.
When about to serve, coat the pullet with Allemande sauce flavoured
with truffle essence.
N.B.—The use of a _bain-marie_ consisting of a deep pan containing
boiling water, wherein the dish which holds the pullet is placed, is
highly recommended, but the ideal method of poaching this sort of
preparations is by means of a steamer.
1519—POULARDE STANLEY
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, three oz. of mushrooms, and
three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles. Poach it with one lb. two oz. of
sliced and _blanched_ onions, seasoned with a pinch of curry. When the
pullet is ready, rub the cooking-liquor and the onions through tammy.
Add one-third pint of Velouté and one-third pint of cream to this
cullis; reduce to a stiff consistence; rub once more through tammy, and
finish with one-sixth pint of cream.
1520—POULARDE SOUVAROFF
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of foie gras and five oz. of
truffles cut into large dice, and three-parts _poële_ it.
Now put it into a _cocotte_ with ten fair-sized truffles stewed in
Madeira for a few minutes in the same saucepan as that in which the
pullet was _poëled_. Moisten with one-sixth pint of veal stock; close
the _cocotte_; seal the cover with a thread of paste, and complete the
cooking in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.
Serve the fowl as it stands in the _cocotte_.
1521—POULARDE SYLVANA
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mushrooms, tossed in brown butter, and
half-brown it in the oven.
Meanwhile put one pint of fresh peas into a saucepan, together with
ten small new onions, one small lettuce cut _julienne_-fashion, and a
faggot consisting of parsley stalks, chervil, and a sprig of mint. Add
salt, sugar, two oz. of butter, and mix the whole up together.
Moisten with two small tablespoonfuls of water; cover and half-cook,
taking care to toss from time to time during the operation. When the
pullet is half-cooked, put it into a _cocotte_ lined with a thin layer
of paste, overreaching the edges of the _cocotte_ by about two inches.
Surround it with a garnish of peas; cover it with a slice of bacon,
and close the _cocotte_ with its cover. Draw the overlapping paste
over the latter; seal it down with some white of egg, that it may be
hermetically closed, and set in the oven for about forty-five minutes.
Serve the preparation as it stands in the _cocotte_. A sauceboat of
good chicken gravy may be served separately.
1522—POULARDE TALLEYRAND
_Poële_ the pullet; raise the _suprêmes_, and cut these into large
dice. Mix them with an equal quantity of macaroni, cut short, and
thickened with cream sauce combined with Parmesan, and add enough foie
gras and truffles, cut into large dice, to equal half the weight of the
_suprêmes_.
Suppress the breast-bones; fill the fowl with the above preparation,
and cover the latter with a layer of _mousseline_ forcemeat,
reconstructing the bird naturally in so doing. Deck the surface with
a crown of truffle slices; cover with buttered paper, and set in the
oven (1) to poach the forcemeat, (2) to thoroughly heat the preparation
beneath.
Dish the pullet; pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence and combined with slices of truffle, over the dish, and serve
what remains of the sauce separately.
1523—POULARDE TOSCA
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after No. 2256, and _poële_ it in
short moistening. Dish it on a low cushion of fried bread, and surround
it with a garnish of braised, tuberous fennel-roots.
Send the pullet’s _poëling_ liquor separately, after having reduced and
finished it with butter.
1524—POULARDE TOULOUSAINE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom
essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in
heaps:—Quenelles of _mousseline_ chicken forcemeat; slices of poached,
veal sweetbreads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; cooked and very white
button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.
Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, separately.
1525—POULARDE TRIANON
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, stuffed
with foie-gras purée. Arrange these quenelles in heaps, and set a nice,
whole truffle between each heap.
Pierce the pullet with a _hatelet_, garnished with one grooved
mushroom, one fair-sized glazed truffle, and a quenelle decorated with
salted tongue.
Serve a suprême sauce at the same time.
1526—POULARDE VALENCIENNE
_Poële_ the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with a garnish of rizotto, combined with ham
dice. Set a crown of grilled slices of ham upon the rizotto.
Serve a well-seasoned _tomatéd_ suprême sauce separately.
1527—POULARDE AU VERT-PRÉ
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with printanier
butter (No. 157), in the proportion of two oz. per pint of sauce;
and surround it with a garnish consisting of peas, French beans, and
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
1528—POULARDE VICHY
Stuff the pullet with ordinary pilaff rice, and braise it white.
Dish it, coat it with a suprême sauce, combined with the reduced
braising-liquor, and surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with
carrots à la Vichy.
1529—POULARDE VICTORIA
Stuff the pullet with truffles and foie gras, and three-parts _poële_
it, exactly as directed under “Poularde Souvaroff.”
Put it into a _cocotte_ with one lb. of potatoes, cut into large dice
and tossed in butter, and complete its cooking and that of the potatoes
in the oven.
1530—POULARDE WASHINGTON
Stuff the pullet with ten oz. of green maize, three-parts cooked, and
combined with one chopped onion cooked in butter and three oz. of good
sausage-meat, fried in butter for one moment with the onion. Braise the
pullet, and glaze it at the last minute.
Serve separately and at the same time a timbale of maize with cream.
1531—CHAPON FIN AUX PERLES DU PÉRIGORD
Stuff the capon with fine truffles, and envelop it in very thin slices
of cushion of veal. Braise it with best liqueur-brandy.
Dish and serve separately (1) the braising liquor in a sauceboat; (2) a
timbale of cardoons with gravy.
1532—POULETS SAUTÉS
As I pointed out at the beginning of Part V. of this chapter, the
chickens best suited to the _sauté_ treatment are those termed “à la
Reine”; they should be of medium size, very fleshy, and tender.
In an extreme case, small pullets or large chickens might be used, but
neither of these are so eminently suited to the procedure in question
as chickens “à la Reine.”
The fowl which is to be _sautéd_ should be cut up thus: after having
emptied, singed, and thoroughly cleaned it; cut off its legs—quite a
simple matter, since all that is necessary is the disjunction of the
thigh-bones, after having cut the skin. Cut off the claws just below
the joint of the tibia, and pare the spurs. Now cut the tibia above the
joint, and remove the thigh-bone.
Cut the pinions at the first joint; remove the wings, after having cut
round a portion of the breast in such wise that each wing holds one
half of it; finally detach the centrepiece or breast-bone, which should
be left whole if the fowl be small and cut into two if it be otherwise.
The carcass thus remains. Cut it into two, and trim each piece on both
sides.
Before setting them to cook, moderately season the pieces of fowl with
salt and pepper. Whatever the demands of a particular recipe may be,
the preparatory principle of _sautéd_ chickens is always as follows:—
Take a sautépan just large enough to hold the pieces of fowl, and heat
therein two oz. of clarified butter; or, according to circumstances,
half butter and half good oil. When the selected fat is quite hot,
insert the pieces of fowl; let them colour quickly, and turn them over
from time to time, that they may do so evenly. Now cover the utensil,
and put it in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the complete cooking of
the fowl. Some tender pieces, such as the wings and the breast, should
be withdrawn after a few minutes have elapsed, and kept warm; but the
legs, the meat of which is firmer and thicker, should cook seven or
eight minutes more at least.
When all the pieces are cooked, withdraw them; drain away their butter,
and swill the sautépan with the prescribed liquor, which is either
some kind of wine, mushroom cooking-liquor, or chicken stock, &c. This
swilling forms, as I have already pointed out, an essential part of
the procedure, inasmuch as its object is to dissolve those portions of
solidified gravy which adhere to the bottom of the sautépan.
Reduce the swilling-liquor to half, and add thereto the sauce given in
the recipe. Put the pieces of carcass, the claws, the pinions and the
legs into this sauce, and simmer for a few minutes. The other pieces,
_i.e._, the wings and breast, are then added, but when the sauce
is sufficiently reduced, it must stop boiling. When the pieces are
completely cooked, it is obviously unnecessary for the sauce to boil,
since the former would only be hardened thereby.
A few minutes before serving, put the pieces into a deep entrée dish
(fitted with a cover) in the following order:—The pieces of carcass,
the claws and the pinions on the bottom of the dish, upon these the
legs and the breast, and, last of all, the wings.
The sauce is then finished according to the directions of the recipe,
and is poured over the pieces of fowl.
Some chickens are prepared without colouration—that is to say,
the pieces are merely stiffened in butter without browning, and
their cooking is completed in the oven as above. In this case the
swilling-liquor is invariably white, as also the supplementary sauces,
and the latter are finished with cream.
1533—POULET SAUTÉ ARCHIDUC
Fry the pieces of fowl without colouration, _i.e._, merely stiffen
them. Add four oz. of onions, previously cooked in butter, and
complete the cooking of the onions and the fowl together.
Withdraw the pieces; dish them; cover the dish, and keep it hot.
Moisten the onions with a small glassful of liqueur brandy; reduce
the latter; add thereto one-sixth pint of cream and one-sixth pint of
velouté, and rub through tammy.
Reduce this sauce to a stiff consistence; finish it, away from the
fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of the quarter of
a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Madeira, and pour it over the fowl.
Set about ten slices of truffle on the latter, and serve.
1534—POULET SAUTÉ ARLÉSIENNE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil, and withdraw the pieces.
Swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; add a piece of crushed
garlic as large as a pea, one-sixth pint of _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce,
and reduce by a third. Dish the chicken, and surround with alternate
heaps of onion and egg-plant roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in
oil, and _concassed_ tomatoes cooked in butter.
1535—POULET SAUTÉ ARMAGNAC
Cook the pieces of chicken in butter without colouration; add thereto
three and one-half oz. of raw slices of truffle, and dish in a shallow
_cocotte_.
Swill with a small glassful of old liqueur brandy; add a few drops of
lemon juice and one-sixth pint of cream; heat; finish this sauce, away
from the fire, with two oz. of crayfish butter, and pour it over the
fowl.
Serve in the _cocotte_.
1536—POULET SAUTÉ D’ARTOIS
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and dish the pieces.
Swill with three tablespoonfuls of Madeira, and add one-seventh pint of
light, pale meat glaze, four small quartered artichoke-bottoms, tossed
in butter, ten carrots shaped like olives, cooked in consommé and
glazed, and eight small onions cooked in butter.
Finish with one and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of chopped
chives, and pour this sauce over the pieces of fowl.
1537—POULET SAUTÉ BEAULIEU
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and add to it five oz. of new potatoes
(the size of hazel-nuts) and the same quantity of small quartered
artichoke-bottoms, cooked in butter beforehand with the potatoes.
Keep the whole in the oven, under cover, for ten minutes.
Set the pieces of fowl, the potatoes and the artichoke-bottoms in an
earthenware saucepan, and add twelve black olives.
Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and a little
lemon juice; complete with a tablespoonful of veal stock, and pour into
the _cocotte_.
Simmer for five minutes, in the utensil, and serve the preparation as
it stands.
1538—POULET SAUTÉ BORDELAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and dish it. Surround it with small
quartered artichoke-bottoms stewed in butter; sliced potatoes cooked in
butter, and roundels of fried onions, arranged in small heaps, with a
small tuft of fried parsley between each heap.
Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of chicken gravy, and
sprinkle the fowl with the latter.
1539—POULET SAUTÉ BOIVIN
Fry the chicken in butter and add twelve small onions; three quartered
artichokes, small and very tender; twenty-four small potatoes of the
size of hazel-nuts. Cover and cook the whole together, in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the onions and potatoes over it, and surround it
with the artichokes.
Swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of consommé; add three
tablespoonfuls of pale glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, and one and
one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.
1540—POULET SAUTÉ BRETONNE
Stiffen the pieces without colouring them, and add thereto three oz. of
the white of a leek and the half of an onion, both sliced and stewed in
butter beforehand. Cover and set in the oven.
About five minutes before the fowl is quite cooked, add three oz. of
mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter.
Dish the pullet, add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce and as much
cream to the vegetables; reduce to half, and pour the sauce and the
vegetables over the chicken.
1541—POULET SAUTÉ AUX CÈPES
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil. When it is cooked, drain away the oil, dish
it; heat three chopped shallots in the sautépan; swill with one-quarter
pint of white wine; reduce, and complete with one and one-half oz. of
butter.
Pour this sauce over the chicken, and surround the latter with
eight oz. of _cèpes_, _sautéd_ à la Bordelaise.
Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.
1542—POULET SAUTÉ CHAMPEAUX
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter; dish it, and surround it with small
onions and potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts), both cooked in butter
beforehand. Swill with a little white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal
gravy and one tablespoonful of meat glaze; reduce; finish with one and
one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.
1543—POULET SAUTÉ CHASSEUR
_Sauté_ the chicken in equal quantities of butter and oil, and dish it.
Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine, and reduce;
add one-quarter, pint of Chasseur Sauce Escoffier; heat; pour over the
chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of _concassed_ parsley.
1544—POULET SAUTÉ CYNTHIA
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and dish it.
Swill the saucepan with a glass of dry champagne; reduce to half;
add one tablespoonful of light poultry glaze; finish with two
and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and one
tablespoonful of dry curaçao; pour this sauce over the chicken.
Surround the latter with three oz. of grapes, cleared of all skin and
pips, and ten sections of an orange, peeled in suchwise that the pulp
of the fruit is raw.
1545—POULET SAUTÉ DEMIDOFF
Colour the chicken in butter; add the vegetable garnish given for
“Poularde à la Demidoff” (1464), and put the two to stew in the oven.
About ten minutes before the cooking is completed, add two oz. of
truffles, cut to the shape of crescents like the carrots and turnips,
and three tablespoonfuls of good veal stock.
Dish the pieces of chicken, and cover them with the garnish.
1546—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DORIA
Colour the pieces of chicken in oil and butter; add thereto
one-half lb. of cucumber cut to the shape of garlic cloves; and
complete the cooking by stewing in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the cucumber upon it. Swill the saucepan with
one tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice; and
sprinkle the chicken and its garnish with this swilling-liquor, to
which add one and one-half oz. of brown butter.
1547—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DURAND
Dredge the seasoned pieces of chicken, and toss them in oil.
Dish them in the form of a crown; garnish their midst with a fine heap
of roundels of fried onion; and, in the centre of the latter, set a
cone, made from a very thin slice of ham and filled with _concassed_
tomatoes cooked in butter.
1548—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ÉGYPTIENNE
Colour the pieces of chicken in oil. Toss in oil, together, three oz.
of onion, and two oz. of mushrooms, sliced; and six oz. of raw ham, cut
into dice.
Set the pieces of chicken in a _cocotte_, alternating them with the
garnish, which should have been well-drained; cover with two tomatoes,
cut into thick slices; cover the _cocotte_, and complete the cooking in
the oven for twenty minutes.
When about to serve, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of veal stock.
1549—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESPAGNOLE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil. Drain the latter away, and add one-half lb.
of pilaff rice, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums in
dice; three oz. of large green peas, cooked _à l’anglaise_, and two
sliced and poached sausages.
Cover the sautépan, and set the whole to stew in the oven for ten
minutes.
Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and surround it with six
small grilled tomatoes.
1550—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESTRAGON
Toss the chicken in butter, and dish it.
Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce to half;
add one-sixth pint of gravy in which tarragon has been infused, and
thicken with arrowroot.
Pour this sauce over the chicken, and decorate its wings with sprays of
parboiled tarragon leaves.
1551—POULET SAUTÉ FEDORA
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration, with four oz. of
raw, sliced truffles; and dish.
Swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add three tablespoonfuls of
Béchamel sauce, and reduce to half. Finish, away from the fire, with
one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, a few drops of lemon juice,
and a little cayenne; add four oz. of parboiled asparagus-heads to this
sauce, and pour it over the chicken. Or, after having cohered them with
butter, the asparagus-heads may be arranged in heaps round the fowl.
1552—POULET SAUTÉ AU FENOUIL
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration; swill with cream;
add three quartered tuberose fennels, trimmed to the shape of garlic
cloves and parboiled, and complete the cooking of the fennels and the
chicken, together.
Set the pieces of fennel in the form of a crown on a special
earthenware dish, and put the chicken in their midst, placing the
pieces side by side. Coat with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken
essence, and set to glaze.
1553—POULET SAUTÉ A LA FERMIÈRE
Slice three oz. of the red part of a carrot, the same quantity of
turnip, two oz. of celery, and half an onion. Season with a little salt
and sugar, and half-stew in butter.
Brown the pieces of chicken in butter; put them in the _cocotte_ with
the garnish of vegetables; add thereto two and one-half oz. of ham
cut into dice, and complete the cooking of both the chicken and the
vegetables, in the oven.
When about to serve, sprinkle with four or five tablespoonfuls of veal
stock.
1554—POULET SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and two minutes before dishing it,
sprinkle it with one-half oz. of chopped shallots. Swill the sautépan
with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls
of strong, veal gravy and as much half-glaze sauce; and finish the
sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter and a
coffeespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil, and tarragon. Pour it over
the chicken.
1555—POULET SAUTÉ FORESTIÈRE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter; sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of
chopped shallots; add five oz. of quartered morels; stew in the oven
for ten minutes, and dish the chicken.
Swill with white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal stock; reduce, and
pour over the chicken with the morels. Surround with four small heaps
of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter; put a rectangle
of frizzled bacon between each heap, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped
parsley over the chicken.
1556—POULET SAUTÉ GABRIELLE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration, and dish it.
Swill with one-eighth pint of mushroom cooking-liquor; add three
tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and three tablespoonfuls of cream;
reduce, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and
one-half oz. of butter.
Pour this sauce over the chicken; sprinkle on it some very black
truffle, cut _julienne-fashion_, and surround it with little leaves of
puff-paste, baked white.
1557—POULET SAUTÉ GEORGINA
_Sauté_ the pullet in butter with twelve small new onions and a small
faggot, containing a sprig of fennel. Dish the chicken.
Swill with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom cooking-liquor and as much
Rhine wine; add one-fifth pint of cream; twelve mushroom-heads, sliced;
and reduce the cream to half.
Complete with a pinch of chopped chervil and tarragon, and pour over
the chicken.
1558—POULET SAUTÉ HONGROISE
Prepare a sufficient quantity of pilaff rice, combined with _concassed_
tomatoes, to make a border.
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration, with a chopped
half-onion and a little paprika. When the onion is slightly coloured,
add three peeled and quartered tomatoes, and complete the cooking of
the whole. Mould the rice to form a border, and set the chicken in the
middle.
Add one-sixth pint of cream to the tomatoes; reduce to half; rub
through tammy; heat this sauce, and pour it over the chicken.
1559—POULET SAUTÉ A L’INDIENNE OU CURRIE DE POULET
Cut the chicken into small pieces, and fry them in oil with a sliced
onion and a large pinch of curry. Swill with one-sixth pint of cocoanut
milk or, failing this, almond milk; add one-third pint of velouté, and
complete the cooking of the chicken while reducing the sauce to half.
Set in a deep dish, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.
1560—POULET SAUTÉ JAPONAISE
Fry the chicken in butter; add one lb. of cleaned and parboiled stachys
and complete the cooking of the whole, chicken and stachys, in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the stachys upon it. Swill with one-sixth pint of
slightly thickened veal stock; complete, away from the fire, with one
and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this over the chicken.
1561—POULET SAUTÉ JURASSIENNE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and, when it is ready, add to it
one-half lb. of _blanched_ breast of fresh pork, cut into strips and
well fried in butter. Drain away three-quarters of the chicken’s
grease; swill with one-sixth pint of light half-glaze sauce, and dish
the chicken.
Complete the sauce with a pinch of chopped chives, and pour it over the
chicken with the strips of bacon.
1562—POULET SAUTÉ LATHUILE
Heat three oz. of butter in a sautépan, just large enough to hold
the chicken and its garnish. Set the pieces of chicken in this
butter, together with one-half lb. of potatoes and five oz. of raw
artichoke-bottoms, both cut into fair-sized dice.
When the chicken and the vegetables are coloured underneath, turn the
whole over at one stroke and complete the cooking on the other side;
sprinkle the chicken with three tablespoonfuls of meat glaze and a
pinch of chopped parsley containing a mite of crushed garlic, and set
the chicken and the garnish on a dish, after the manner of “Pommes
Anna.”
Pour two and one-half oz. of nut-brown butter over the whole, and
surround with roundels of seasoned onions, dredged and fried in oil,
and very green, fried parsley, arranged in alternate heaps.
1563—POULET SAUTÉ LYONNAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and, when it is half-cooked, add three
fair-sized onions, finely sliced, tossed in butter and slightly
coloured.
Complete the cooking of the chicken and the onions together, and dish
the former. Swill with one-sixth pint of veal gravy; reduce; pour this
liquor and the onions over the chicken, and sprinkle the whole with a
pinch of chopped parsley.
1564—POULET SAUTÉ MARENGO
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil. Swill the sautépan with white wine; add two
peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, or one and one-half tablespoonfuls of
tomato purée, a mite of crushed garlic, ten small mushrooms, and ten
slices of truffle.
Dish the chicken; cover it with sauce and garnish; surround it with
heart-shaped _croûtons_, fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and
trussed crayfish cooked in _court-bouillon_, and sprinkle the whole
with a pinch of _concassed_ parsley.
1565—POULET SAUTÉ MARYLAND
Season the pieces of chicken; dip them in butter; roll them in
bread-crumbs, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish, placing a slice
of grilled bacon between each piece of chicken; surround with small,
fried _galettes_ of maize flour, and fried slices of banana.
Serve a horse-radish sauce with cream, separately.
1566—POULET SAUTÉ MARSEILLAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil, and, when it is half-cooked, add thereto
two crushed cloves of garlic; three oz. of _ciseled_, green capsicums,
and the same weight of quartered tomatoes—all three tossed in oil.
When the chicken is cooked, drain away the oil; swill the pan with
one-sixth pint of white wine and a few drops of lemon juice, and reduce
almost entirely.
Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and sprinkle with a pinch
of _concassed_ parsley.
1567—POULET SAUTÉ MEXICAINE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil; swill the sautépan with a few
tablespoonfuls of white wine; reduce, and add one-sixth pint of tomatéd
veal gravy.
Dish the chicken; pour the sauce over it, and surround it with grilled
capsicums and mushrooms, garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes cooked in
butter.
1568—POULET SAUTÉ MIREILLE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil and add to it, when half-cooked, one chopped
onion, four _concassed_ tomatoes, and one pimento cut into dice. Ten
minutes before serving, flavour with a small piece of crushed garlic.
Dish the chicken; pour the juice of the tomatoes into the sautépan;
reduce to half, and strain over the chicken.
Serve a timbale of rice, flavoured with saffron, separately.
1569—POULET SAUTÉ AUX MORILLES
Colour the chicken in butter and three-parts cook it; add to it
two-thirds lb. of morels, stewed in butter, and complete the cooking of
the chicken, under cover, in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the morels upon it; swill the sautépan with a
tablespoonful of brandy; add thereto the juice of the morels, two
tablespoonfuls of meat glaze, and one and one-half oz. of butter, and
pour this sauce over the chicken.
1570—POULET SAUTÉ NORMANDE
Half-_sauté_ the chicken in butter, and set the pieces in a _cocotte_
with one lb. of peeled and sliced russet apples. Swill with a small
glassful of liqueur cider; put this liquor in the _cocotte_; cover,
and set in the oven, that the chicken may be completely cooked and the
apples as well.
Serve the preparation, as it stands, in the _cocotte_.
1571—POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER
Brown the chicken in butter, and add one lb. of potatoes, raised by
means of an oval spoon-cutter, or cut into large dice, and already
slightly frizzled in butter.
Complete the cooking in the oven, and dish the chicken with the
potatoes arranged in heaps all round. Swill with a few tablespoonfuls
of white wine; add to it a tablespoonful of veal gravy; pour this over
the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1572—POULET SAUTÉ PIÉMONTAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and dish it.
Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add thereto a
tablespoonful of melted pale meat glaze, and pour this over the
chicken. Sprinkle it at the last moment with two oz. of nut-brown
butter, and finally with chopped parsley, and serve a timbale of
rizotto with white truffles separately.
1573—POULET SAUTÉ PORTUGAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and oil, and dish it. Drain away a
portion of the butter used in the cooking, add to the remainder a mite
of crushed garlic and a chopped half-onion; and, when the latter is
fried, add four oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, two oz. of
sliced mushrooms, a few drops of white wine, and a pinch of _concassed_
parsley.
Complete the cooking of the whole, taking care to reduce all moisture.
Cover the chicken with its garnish, and surround it with half-tomatoes
or tomatoes stuffed with rice.
1574—POULET SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil and dish it. Swill with white wine and add
thereto a mite of crushed garlic, three oz. of _concassed_ tomatoes,
four anchovy fillets cut into dice, twelve black olives stoned and
parboiled, and a pinch of chopped sweet basil.
Leave the whole to simmer for five minutes, and cover the chicken with
it.
1575—POULET SAUTÉ STANLEY
Colour the chicken in butter, and complete its cooking under cover
with one-half lb. of minced onions. Dish it in a flat, earthenware
_cocotte_, setting a heap of mushrooms on either side of it; add
one-third pint of cream to the onions; simmer for ten minutes; rub
through tammy, and reduce.
Finish this sauce with one oz. of butter, a little curry, and pour it
over the chicken.
Set ten slices of truffle on the latter.
1576—POULET SAUTÉ AUX TRUFFES
Half-_sauté_ the chicken in butter; add six oz. of raw truffles, cut
into slices, and complete the cooking under cover. Dish; swill with
a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of
half-glaze sauce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour
this sauce over the chicken.
1577—POULET SAUTÉ VAN DYCK
Cook the chicken in butter without letting it brown; swill with
one-sixth pint of cream; add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce, and
reduce by a third.
Mix one-half lb. of young parboiled hop-sprouts to the sauce; simmer
for two minutes, and pour over the chicken, which should be dished in a
_cocotte_.
1578—POULET SAUTÉ VICHY
Colour the chicken in butter; add one-half lb. of half-cooked carrots à
la Vichy (No. 2061) to it, and complete the cooking of the chicken and
the carrots under cover in the oven.
Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of veal stock; dish the pullet, and
cover it with the garnish of carrots.
1579—POULET SAUTÉ VERDI
Prepare a border of rizotto à la Piémontaise.
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter; set it in the centre of the border, and
on the latter arrange a crown of slices of foie gras, tossed in butter,
alternated with slices of truffle, resting against the chicken.
Swill with Asti wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock
and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the pieces
of chicken.
1580—FILETS 1581—SUPRÊMES 1582—CÔTELETTES 1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN
The terms “Fillet” and “_Suprême_” are synonymous, and either one
or the other may be used for variety to express the same thing on a
menu. They are names given to the breast of the fowl, divided into two
along the sternum, and cleared of all skin. Each fillet or _suprême_
comprises the large and the minion fillets.
When _suprêmes_ are taken from a small chicken, the minion fillets are
not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or a pullet, the minion
fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons, and twisted into rings or
crescents, after having been _contised_ with slices of truffle that are
half-inserted into the little incisions, made at regular intervals in
the meat with the point of a knife.
Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in the
garnish of the _suprêmes_. Chicken _ailerons_ and cutlets (the latter
must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked meat and which are
only a kind of croquette) are _suprêmes_ to which the humerus-bone of
the wing is left adhering.
Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens à la Reine, or very
fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies to suprêmes: though,
sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets. But, in that case, as
they would be too large, they are cut into three or four very regular
pieces, which are slightly flattened, and trimmed to the shape of
hearts or ovals; except when they have to be stuffed.
In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means of the
point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the resulting interstice
the selected stuffing is inserted, with the help of a piping-bag fitted
with a little, even pipe, and in a sufficient quantity to fill out the
_suprêmes_ well.
_Suprêmes_ and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or almost
so; for should any moistening liquid even approach the boil, it would
immediately harden them. If they be desired poached, it would be best
to cook the whole fowl, and cut them from the latter when it is cooked.
This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they be required
colourless or _sautéd_; though the brown method of preparing them is
applied more particularly to cutlets.
_Cutlets or suprêmes sautéd_: Season them with salt; roll them in
flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very hot clarified
butter, and quickly _gild_ them on both sides. These pieces of fowl are
so tender that they are cooked and _gilded_ at the same moment of time.
_Cutlets or suprêmes prepared without colouration_: Season them, and
set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh, melted, unclarified
butter. Roll the _suprêmes_ in this butter; add a few drops of lemon
juice; thoroughly seal the vegetable-pan, and put it in a very hot oven.
A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the suprêmes, which are known
to be ready when they seem resilient to the touch, and are perfectly
white.
_Important Remarks_: Chicken _Suprêmes_ or cutlets should never be
allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be cooked quickly, at
the last moment; dished and served immediately. The shortest wait is
enough to spoil them, and to make an insipid and dry preparation of
what should be an exquisite dish.
N.B.—The recipes given hereafter for _suprêmes_ may of course be
applied to fillets, cutlets, _ailerons_, blanc de poulet, &c.
1584—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AGNÈS SOREL
Line some oval buttered tartlet-moulds with _mousseline_ forcemeat.
Upon the latter, put some raw, sliced mushrooms, tossed in butter;
cover with forcemeat so as to fill the mould, and poach in the
_bain-marie_.
Turn out in a circle on a round dish; put a poached _suprême_ on each
tartlet; coat with Allemande sauce; deck with a truffle girt by a ring
of very red tongue, and surround the _suprême_ with a thread of pale,
meat glaze.
1585—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA
Poach the _suprêmes_ dry. Dish them with a few slices of truffle set
upon them; coat them with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence,
and glaze quickly. Surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads,
cohered with butter.
1586—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AMBASSADRICE
Poach the _suprêmes_ dry. Dish them; coat them with _suprême_ sauce,
and surround them with lamb sweetbreads, studded with truffles and
cooked without colouration, alternated with faggots of asparagus-heads.
1587—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ARLÉSIENNE
Season and dredge the _suprêmes_, and toss them in clarified butter.
Meanwhile, fry in oil some egg-plant roundels and some seasoned and
dredged roundels of onion. Also prepare a garnish of tomatoes tossed in
oil. Dish the egg-plant roundels in a circle on a round dish; set the
_suprêmes_ thereon, and garnish the latter with the tossed tomatoes and
the fried onions, set in small heaps upon them.
Serve a delicate, tomatéd half-glaze sauce separately.
1588—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE BOISTELLE
Cut the _suprêmes_ into heart shapes, and stuff them with _mousseline_
forcemeat combined with half its bulk of mashed raw mushrooms.
Put the _suprêmes_ in a buttered vegetable-pan, with two-thirds lb. of
peeled, minced, raw mushrooms; season with salt, white pepper and lemon
juice, and set to poach slowly in a moderate oven.
Dish in the form of a crown, in a timbale, with the mushrooms in the
centre.
Add to the liquor, which should only consist of the moisture of the
mushrooms, two and one-half oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon
juice; pour this sauce over the _suprêmes_, and complete with a pinch
of chopped parsley.
1589—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BLANC
Poach the _suprêmes_ in a little mushroom cooking-liquor.
Dish them in the form of a crown, with some fine very white cooked
mushroom-heads. Coat them moderately with Allemande sauce, combined
with the cooking-liquor of the _suprêmes_.
Serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1590—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BRUN
Cook the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter, as already described.
Dish them; surround them with mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in
butter, and coat them with a light mushroom sauce.
1591—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CHIMAY
Cook the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them; garnish them with tossed morels and asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter, and surround with a thread of good thickened gravy.
1592—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CUSSY
Collop the _suprêmes_; slightly flatten each collop; trim them round,
dredge them, and toss them in butter.
Set each collop of _suprême_ upon an artichoke-bottom about equal in
size to the former; put a thick slice of glazed truffle on each collop,
and a very white cock’s kidney upon each slice of truffle.
Serve a thickened gravy separately.
1593—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DORIA
Season and dredge the _suprêmes_, and toss them quickly in clarified
butter. Dish them and surround them with pieces of cucumber, shaped
like garlic cloves and cooked in butter.
When about to serve, sprinkle them with a little nut-brown butter, and
a few drops of lemon juice.
1594—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DREUX
Make some incisions, at short intervals, in the _suprêmes_, and
half-insert into these, alternate roundels of truffle and salted
tongue. Poach them dry. Dish; surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs
and kidneys, and slices of truffle, and pour a moderate quantity of
Allemande sauce over this garnish.
1595—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCARLATE
Incise the _suprêmes_ as above; but garnish them only with roundels
of tongue. Poach them dry, and set them on oval, flat quenelles of
_mousseline_ forcemeat, sprinkled with very red chopped tongue.
Coat with clear suprême sauce, that the red of the tongue may be seen.
1596—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCOSSAISE
Poach the _suprêmes_.
Dish them; coat them with Écossaise sauce, and surround them with small
heaps of French beans, cohered with butter.
1597—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FAVORITE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them in a crown, on tossed slices of foie gras, with three slices
of truffle on each _suprême_.
In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and
serve, separately, a sauceboat of light meat-glaze, buttered.
1598—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FINANCIÈRE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, upon fried _croûtons_ of the same
size; in their midst arrange a garnish à la financière (No. 1474), and
coat the _suprêmes_ and their garnish with financière sauce.
1599—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them with a garnish of raw artichoke-bottoms, sliced, tossed
in butter, and sprinkled with fine herbs. Sprinkle a few drops of
nut-brown butter over the _suprêmes_, and serve a thickened gravy
separately.
1600—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE GEORGETTE
Prepare as many “pommes Georgette” as there are _suprêmes_, and take
care to choose potatoes of the same size as the _suprêmes_.
Poach the _suprêmes_. Set one on each potato, with a fine slice of
truffle in the middle, and arrange in the form of a crown on a round
dish.
1601—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HENRI IV.
Collop the _suprêmes_; slightly flatten the collops, and trim them
round. Season and dredge them; _sauté_ them in clarified butter,
and set each collop on an artichoke bottom, slightly garnished with
buttered meat-glaze.
Serve a Béarnaise sauce separately.
1602—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HONGROISE
Prepare some pilaff rice, combined with _concassed_ tomatoes, and dish
it in a shallow timbale.
Season the _suprêmes_ with paprika; toss them in clarified butter, and
set them in a timbale, upon the pilaff rice.
Swill the vegetable-pan with a few tablespoonfuls of cream; add the
necessary quantity of Hongroise sauce, and coat the _suprêmes_ with
this sauce.
1603—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter, and put them for a few minutes in a
curry sauce à l’Indienne, but without letting the latter boil.
Dish the _suprêmes_ in a timbale with the curry sauce.
Serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, separately.
1604—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JARDINIÈRE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter. Dish and surround with small heaps
of vegetables, arranged very neatly, as explained in the case of the
_Jardinière_ garnish.
Sprinkle the _suprêmes_ with a few drops of nut-brown butter, just
before serving.
1605—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JUDIC
Cut the _suprêmes_ into heart shapes; season them, and poach them dry.
Dish them in a crown, upon little braised lettuces; and set a slice of
truffle and a cock’s kidney upon each heart of _suprême_. Coat slightly
with thickened gravy.
1606—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARÉCHALE
It is the rule that all preparations termed “à la Maréchale” should be
treated with chopped truffle; that is to say that the latter takes the
place of the customary bread-crumbs.
For the sake of economy the _à l’anglaise treatment_ (_i.e._, egg and
bread-crumbs) is more commonly applied; so the reader may choose which
of the two he prefers. In any case, _sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter;
dish them in the form of a crown, with a fine slice of truffle on each,
and set in their midst a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter.
N.B.—Formerly, these _suprêmes_, like all preparations “à la
Maréchale,” were gently grilled upon buttered paper.
1607—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARYLAND
Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet sauté à la Maryland”
(No. 1565).
1608—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MONTPENSIER
Roll the _suprêmes_ in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and _sauté_ them
in clarified butter. Dish them in a crown with a slice of truffle upon
each, and surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter.
Sprinkle the _suprêmes_ with a few drops of nut-brown butter.
1609—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ORLY
Take some _suprêmes_ of chicken à la Reine, and set them on a dish with
parsley stalks and finely sliced onions; sprinkle with a little oil and
lemon juice, and set to _marinade_ for an hour.
When about to prepare them, dry them by means of a piece of linen; dip
them into light batter, and put them in a very hot frying fat that they
may cook quickly.
Drain; dish on a napkin with bunches or a border of very green fried
parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.
1610—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter, and dish them each upon a thick slice
of chow-chow, cut to the same shape, parboiled, and stewed in butter
beforehand. Coat with Suprême sauce, combined with a quarter of its
bulk of tomato purée, and flavoured moderately with saffron.
1611—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE EN PAPILLOTE
Cut out as many heart-shaped pieces of kitchen paper as there are
_suprêmes_, and either butter or oil them.
Quickly stiffen the _suprêmes_ in butter. In the centre of each paper
heart, set a slice of ham cut to the shape of a triangle; cover the ham
with a tablespoonful of reduced Italienne sauce; set the _suprêmes_ on
the sauce, and cover it with the same sauce and another triangle of
ham. Close the pieces of paper, and pleat their edges in such wise as
to entirely enclose their contents; set the papillotes, thus prepared,
on a tray; and put them in a sufficiently hot oven to allow of
completing the cooking of the _suprêmes_ and blowing out the papillotes.
1612—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AU PARMESAN
Season the _suprêmes_; dip them in beaten egg and roll them in grated
Parmesan. _Sauté_ them in butter, and dish them on _croûtons_ of
polenta (No. 2294), shaped somewhat like the _suprêmes_ and browned in
clarified butter. When about to serve, sprinkle the _suprêmes_ with
nut-brown butter.
1613—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POLIGNAC
Poach the _suprêmes_ dry, and dish them.
Coat them with Suprême sauce, combined with a _julienne_ of truffles
and mushrooms.
1614—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POJARSKI
Mince the _suprêmes_, and, in so doing, combine with them, first,
the quarter of their weight of bread-crumbs dipped in milk and well
squeezed, and the same weight of fresh butter; and then an equal
quantity of fresh cream, which should be added little by little. Season
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Divide up this preparation into portions equal in size to the
_suprêmes_, and shape them exactly like the latter; in short,
reconstruct the _suprêmes_ exactly with this mince-meat.
Dredge; cook in clarified butter, and serve as soon as ready.
There is no hard and fast rule for the garnishing of these _suprêmes_;
the garnish is therefore optional.
1615—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RÉGENCE
Cut the _suprêmes_ into heart shapes; flatten them slightly, and
poach them. Set each _suprême_ on a quenelle of chicken forcemeat,
prepared with crayfish butter, and dish in the form of a crown. Coat
with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and, on each
_suprême_, set an olive-shaped truffle and a cock’s kidney—the two
separated by a cock’s comb.
1616—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RICHELIEU
Treat the _suprêmes à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them; coat them with half-melted butter à la Maître d’hôtel, and
set four fine slices of truffle on each _suprême_.
1617—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ROSSINI
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter, and dish them on collops of foie
gras, arranged in the form of a crown and also tossed in butter. Coat
with a strong Madeira sauce, combined with slices of truffle.
1618—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE TALLEYRAND
Prepare:—(1) a _croustade_ of lining paste, of a size in proportion
to the garnish to be put inside it, just as the garnish should be in
proportion to the number of _suprêmes_:—(2) a garnish of macaroni with
cream, combined with three oz. of foie gras and three oz. of truffles
in dice, per one-half lb. of macaroni.
Cut the _suprêmes_ to the shape of hearts; stuff them with godiveau
with cream (No. 198), mixed with half its bulk of a purée of foie gras,
and poach them dry.
Put the macaroni in the _croustade_, shaping it like a dome in so
doing; coat the _suprêmes_ with Allemande sauce, and set them in a
crown on the timbale and round the dome of macaroni.
Send a sauceboat of velouté to the table separately.
1619—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VALENÇAY
Stuff the _suprêmes_ with truffles, cut into small dice and cohered
with very reduced Allemande sauce. Treat them _à l’anglaise_ and cook
them in butter.
Prepare some fried _croûtons_, shaped like cocks’ combs, in the
proportion of two for each _suprême_; cover these with a dome of fine
truffled forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven that the forcemeat
may poach.
Dish the _suprêmes_ in the form of a crown; surround them with the
_croûtons_; and, in their midst, pour a purée of mushrooms.
1620—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA VALOIS
Treat the _suprêmes à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them with a garnish of small, stoned olives, stuffed and poached
at the last moment.
Serve a Valois sauce separately.
1621—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VERNEUIL
_Marinade_ the _suprêmes_ as for No. 1609; treat them _à l’anglaise_,
and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a crown,
and coat them with Colbert sauce.
Serve separately a purée of artichokes, combined with finely-minced
truffles.
1622—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VILLEROY
Poach the _suprêmes_ without completely cooking them.
Dip them in a Villeroy sauce, in such wise that they may be well coated
with it. Leave them to cool; treat them _à l’anglaise_; and, a few
minutes before serving, put them in some very hot frying fat. Dish them
in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
1623—BLANC DE POULET ÉLISABETH
Raise the _suprêmes_ of two small chickens; poach them in butter and
lemon juice, and coat them with Suprême sauce.
Dish them around a low, very cold cushion of bread, placed on the dish
at the last moment. Upon the cushion, quickly set a dozen shelled
oysters, which should have been kept in ice for at least two hours
before dishing.
Serve very quickly in order that the _suprêmes_ may be very hot and the
oysters very cold. Send a Suprême sauce separately.
1624—TURBAN DE FILETS DE POULET
Take the required number of fillets, which is determined by the size of
the mould to be used. Flatten these fillets out somewhat thinly, and
trim them neatly on both sides.
With these fillets, line a buttered _savarin-mould_; setting a row of
thin slices of truffle between each of the fillets, and allowing the
latter to hang over the edge of the mould. Over the fillets spread a
layer of _mousseline_ forcemeat, two-thirds in. thick.
Three-parts fill the remaining space with a large tongue, truffles and
mushrooms _salpicon_, cohered by means of a reduced Allemande sauce.
Cover this _salpicon_ with forcemeat, so as to fill the mould, and then
draw the overlapping ends of the fillets across the forcemeat.
Set to poach in the _bain-marie_ for about forty minutes; and, upon
withdrawing the mould, let it stand for five minutes, that its contents
may settle. Turn out upon a round dish; pour a Toulousaine garnish (see
Poularde No. 1524) in the middle, and surround the turban with a thread
of Allemande sauce.
1625—MIGNONNETTES DE POULET
Take the required number of small, minion fillets of pullet: trim
them; make six incisions in each, and half-insert into each of these
incisions alternate thin roundels of truffle and tongue.
Set these minion fillets on a buttered dish, and shape them like rings.
Trim and indent the edges of as many artichoke-bottoms as there
are minion fillets, and heat them in butter. Garnish these
artichoke-bottoms, dome-fashion, with a very white and somewhat stiff
chicken purée. Sprinkle the minion fillets with a little mushroom
cooking-liquor, and poach them in the oven for from five to six minutes.
Set the artichoke-bottoms in a circle on a round dish, and set a minion
fillet upon each.
Serve a very delicate Suprême sauce, separately.
1626—NONNETTES DE POULET AGNÈS SOREL
Truss twelve ortolans for entrées, and stiffen them in butter for a
moment.
Raise the fillets of twelve spring chickens; trim them; flatten them
slightly and pair them off, putting the edges of one on the other, that
a larger surface may be obtained.
In the middle of these joined _suprêmes_ of chicken, put an ortolan;
wrap it in them, and tie them round once or twice with string, that
they may keep the shape of a _paupiette_.
Set these _paupiettes_ in a shallow sautépan, and, five minutes
before serving, sprinkle them with four oz. of boiling butter; salt
moderately, and cook in a fierce oven.
After having removed the string, set each nonnette on a square,
hollowed _crouton_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter, and coated inside
with foie-gras purée. Coat moderately with a light chicken glaze,
finished with butter, and squeeze a drop of lemon juice on each
nonnette.
1627—URSULINES DE NANCY
Prepare some _barquette_ crusts.
Mould some chicken forcemeat into large, round, regular quenelles, and
poach them in some white consommé, in time for them to be ready when
the Ursulines are being dished.
A few moments before serving, garnish the _barquette_ crusts with
foie-gras purée, thinned with a little good half-glaze, flavoured with
port or sherry wine. In the middle of each garnished _barquette_, set
a well-drained _mousseline_ quenelle; deck each quenelle with a thin
and wide slice of truffle; set a small heap of asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter, at either end of the _barquettes_, that is to say, on
either side of the quenelle; and slightly coat the latter with chicken
glaze, finished with butter.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing some of the same chicken
glaze with butter.
1628—FILETS DE POULET A LA SAINT-GERMAIN
Season the fillets, dip them in melted butter and roll them in
bread-crumbs; grill them gently, each on a sheet of oiled paper, and
sprinkle with clarified butter during the operation.
Dish the grilled fillets, and serve at the same time:—(1) a Béarnaise
sauce; (2) a timbale containing a purée of foie gras with cream.
1629—FILETS DE POULET MIREILLE
Prepare a garnish as for No. 1365; _i.e._, sliced, raw potatoes and
artichoke-bottoms, set in a small earthenware dish and cooked as
“Pommes Anna.”
_Sauté_ the fillets in butter at the last moment; put them on the
garnish, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter.
SPRING CHICKENS (POULETS DE GRAINS)
Spring chickens are usually either grilled or prepared “_en casserole_”
in accordance with one or another of the many recipes applicable to
them.
1630—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BELLE-MEUNIÈRE
Stuff the chicken with four sliced chickens’ livers and three oz. of
raw, quartered mushrooms, slightly tossed in butter. Slip five or six
fine slices of truffle under the skin of the breast; truss the chicken
as for an entrée, and brown it in butter.
This done, put it into an oval _cocotte_, with two oz. of butter, four
rectangles of _blanched_ breast of pork, and three oz. of raw quartered
mushrooms, quickly tossed in butter beforehand.
Cook in the oven, under cover, and add two tablespoonfuls of veal
gravy, just before serving.
1631—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BERGÈRE
Fry in butter four oz. of _blanched_ breast of pork, cut into dice,
and one-half lb. of small, whole mushrooms. Drain, and set to brown in
the same butter, the chicken stuffed with a half-onion and three oz.
of mushrooms, chopped and fried in butter, and mixed with three oz. of
butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley.
When the chicken is well coloured or _gilded_, put the bacon and the
mushrooms round it; swill with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce by
two-thirds; add four tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and complete the
cooking of the chicken in the oven.
Set it on a round dish; thicken the cooking-liquor with a piece of
_manied_ butter, the size of a hazel-nut, or a little arrow-root; pour
the sauce and the garnish round the chicken, and surround it with a
border of freshly-fried straw potatoes.
1632—POULET DE GRAINS BONNE FEMME
Fry in butter four oz. of breast of fresh or salted pork, cut into
slices and _blanched_. Drain; colour the chicken in the same fat, and
put it in an oval _cocotte_ with the slices of bacon.
With the same fat, fry in a frying-pan two-thirds lb. of potatoes cut
to the shape of corks and divided into roundels; put these round the
chicken, and set to cook in the oven, under cover.
When about to serve, sprinkle the fowl with a few tablespoonfuls of
veal gravy.
Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_.
1633—POULET DE GRAINS EN CASSEROLE
_Poële_ the chicken with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and baste
it often the while. When about to serve, clear of all grease, and add a
tablespoonful of veal gravy.
This chicken is served plain, without any garnish.
1634—POULET DE GRAINS EN COCOTTE
Brown the chicken in butter, in a _cocotte_, and under cover.
When it is half-done, surround it with two oz. of frizzled pieces of
fresh or salted pork cut in dice, twelve small onions partly cooked in
butter, and twenty small potatoes, the size and shape of olives.
Complete the cooking of the whole together, and, when about to serve,
sprinkle with a little veal gravy.
1635—POULET DE GRAINS CLAMART
Brown the chicken in butter; half-cook it, and put it in a _cocotte_
with one-half pint of half-cooked peas à la Française (No. 2193), the
cooking-liquor of which should be very short. Complete the cooking of
the whole, together, and serve the preparation as it stands, without
cohering the peas.
1636—POULET DE GRAINS GRILLÉ DIABLE
Truss the chicken as for an entrée; split it open lengthwise along the
middle of the back; flatten it with a butcher’s beater, and remove as
many bones as possible. Season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and
half-cook it in the oven.
This done, coat it thoroughly with mustard strengthened by means of
cayenne; sprinkle copiously with bread-crumbs; press upon the latter
with the flat of a knife, that they may adhere to the mustard; sprinkle
a little melted butter over the bird, and complete the latter’s cooking
gently on the grill.
Set on a round dish, bordered with thin slices of lemon, and serve a
Devilled Sauce Escoffier separately.
1637—POULET DE GRAINS, GRILLÉ A L’ANGLAISE (Spatchcock)
Split the chicken open, laterally, proceeding from the extremity of the
belly to the wing-joints. Open it without separating the two halves,
flatten it so as to break the joints and the bones, and remove the
fragments of the latter with great care.
Fix the wings by means of a skewer; sprinkle the chicken with melted
butter, season it, and half-cook it in the oven.
This done, sprinkle it with bread-crumbs and melted butter, and
complete its cooking on the grill. Set it on a round dish, bordered
with gherkins, and serve it as it stands.
1638—POULET DE GRAINS AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS
Brown the chicken in butter, and put it in a _cocotte_ with five
fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, sliced while raw, and tossed in butter.
Complete its cooking gently in the oven, and, when about to serve, add
a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice.
1639—POULET DE GRAINS A L’HOTELIERE
Bone the chicken’s breast; stuff it with one-half lb. of good
sausage-meat, and truss it as for an entrée. Brown it with butter in an
earthenware saucepan, and put it in the oven.
When it is two-thirds done, add to it four oz. of quartered mushrooms,
_sautéd_ in butter, complete its cooking, and, when about to serve,
finish it with three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.
1640—POULET DE GRAINS A LA KATOFF
Split the chicken open along the back, and half-cook it in the oven as
in No. 1636. This done, complete its cooking on the grill.
Meanwhile, mould on a round, buttered dish a sort of _galette_ of
Duchesse potatoes (No. 2212), one inch thick. _Gild_, and colour in the
oven.
Dish the grilled chicken on this _galette_, and surround the latter
with a thread of strong veal gravy.
1641—POULET DE GRAINS A LA LIMOUSINE
Stuff the chicken with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, combined
with two oz. of chopped mushrooms fried in butter. Put the chicken in
a _cocotte_ with one oz. of butter and six rectangles of _blanched_
breast of bacon, and cook gently in the oven.
When about to serve, add two or three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.
Send, separately, six fine chestnuts cooked in consommé.
1642—POULET DE GRAINS MASCOTTE
Brown the chicken in butter, and cook it “_en casserole_” with four oz.
of potatoes the size and shape of olives and tossed in butter.
When the chicken is almost cooked, put it in a _cocotte_ with the
potatoes all round, two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and two oz. of
sliced truffles set upon it.
Cover the _cocotte_; put the chicken in the front of the oven for ten
minutes, and serve it as it stands.
1643—POULET DE GRAINS AUX MORILLES
Prepare this chicken like the one “_en casserole_,” and surround it
with one-half lb. of morels, tossed in butter for a moment. Complete
the cooking under cover, and, when about to serve, finish with one
tablespoonful of veal gravy.
1644—POULET DE GRAINS SOUVAROFF
Proceed exactly as explained under No. 1520, but reduce the garnish by
half.
1645—POULET DE GRAINS TARTARE
Proceed as for No. 1636, but serve a Tartare sauce at the same time.
CHICKS (POUSSINS)
The most perfect example of this class would be the Hamburg chick, were
it not for the fact that it is too often kept in confinement and fed on
fish, which gives a disagreeable flavour to the young bird.
When it is bred rationally, however, this chick is a great delicacy.
1646—POUSSINS CENDRILLON
Open the chicks along the back, and brown them in butter. This done,
season them with salt and cayenne, and put them between two layers of
pork forcemeat. Wrap them in very soft pig’s caul. Dip them in melted
butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently for twenty or
twenty-five minutes.
Dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
1647—POUSSINS A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of white Piedmont truffles,
pounded with an equal weight of very fresh pork fat. Now truss them as
for an entrée; string them and fry them in butter over a fierce fire.
At the end of ten minutes put them in a _cocotte_; partly surround and
cover them with rizotto à la Piémontaise, and complete the cooking in
the oven with lid off.
A few minutes before serving, sprinkle the rizotto with grated
Parmesan; glaze; and, at the last minute, sprinkle with nut-brown
butter.
1648—POUSSINS A LA POLONAISE
Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of _gratin_ forcemeat,
two-thirds oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one-third oz. of
butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Truss as for entrées; string;
quickly fry the chicks in butter in a very hot oven; put them in a
_cocotte_, and complete their cooking in the oven.
At the last moment sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and
nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of bread-crumbs per four oz. of
butter.
1649—POUSSINS A LA TARTARE
Proceed exactly as for “Poulet à la Tartare.”
1650—TOURTE DE POUSSINS A LA PAYSANNE
Prepare a round layer of short paste, ten inches in diameter. Upon this
paste spread two-thirds lb. of sausage-meat, combined with five oz. of
dry Duxelles, taking care to leave a margin two inches wide of bare
paste all round.
Upon this coating of forcemeat set ten half-chicks, stiffened in
butter; sprinkle two-thirds lb. of chopped mushrooms, _sautéd_ in
butter, over them; spread a second coating of sausage-meat and Duxelles
over the whole; cover with a very thin slice of bacon, and close the
whole with a layer of paste a little larger than the underlying one,
the edges of which should have been moistened. Seal the two edges, and
pleat regularly; _gild_; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake in a
moderate oven for about forty minutes.
When taking the tourte out of the oven, pour into it, through the slit
in its cover, a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.
1651—POUSSINS A LA VIENNOISE
Cut the chicks each into four pieces; season them; dredge them; dip
them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs.
A few minutes before serving, put them in hot fat; drain them, and dish
them in pyramid form on a folded napkin. Surround with fried parsley
and sections of lemon, and serve very hot.
=Various Preparations of Fowl=
1652—ABATIS AUX NAVETS
Fry one-half lb. of _blanched_ breast of pork, cut into dice, in
butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut
into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter
hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour;
mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or
eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a
pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil,
stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the
preparation may boil gently.
At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another
saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in
butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and
strain the sauce over the whole.
Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.
N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas;
with mixed, new vegetables; à la _chipolata_, &c.
1653—GIBLET PIE
Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately
with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé
to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts
cook, and leave to cool.
This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of
puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to
the edge of the dish; _gild_; streak, and bake in a moderately warm
oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.
1654—BALLOTINES ET JAMBONNEAUX
These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls,
the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned
and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this
preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies
according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is
most commonly used.
Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by
any garnish suited to fowl.
If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover
them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according
to fancy.
=Boudins et Quenelles de Volaille=
1655—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA RICHELIEU
Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada
and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions
into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white
chicken-meat, truffle and mushroom _salpicon_, cohered with reduced
Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little,
rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, as follows:—Line the
bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with
a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre with
_salpicon_; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the
blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.
Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like
quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are
then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally,
gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated
at the same time.
Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce
separately.
1656—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISE
Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace the
_salpicon_ inside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.
Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as
before in clarified butter.
Serve a clear Soubise separately.
1657—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLAND
Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken _mousseline_ forcemeat
into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in
beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on
the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with
the egg.
Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may
be well cooked.
Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.
1658—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D’UZÈS
Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds
with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the
middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced
Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.
Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set
them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish
the centre of the circle with a fine _Julienne_ of truffles.
1659—CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLE
Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add
to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without
allowing to boil at all.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the
preparation.
1660—CHICKEN PIE
Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and
sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and one-half oz. of
chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set
the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of
thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two;
and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé.
Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a
strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish; _gild_; streak; make
a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one
and one-half hours.
When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of
strong gravy into it.
1661—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ
In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set
to soak in cold water for a few hours.
If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the
latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and
rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are
trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed
until they are quite white.
They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).
The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to
cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.
Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they
also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now
give a few recipes.
1662—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ A LA GRECQUE
About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff
rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little
saffron.
Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried
in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto
twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve
fine _blanched_ cocks’ combs, _poëled_ after the manner of lambs’
sweetbreads.
Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a
circle on the rice, and serve instantly.
1663—DESIRS DE MASCOTTE
Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.
Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential
that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a
little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which
should prove sufficient.
Meanwhile, prepare twelve _croûtons_ of bread-crumbs, one-third inch
thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry
these _croûtons_ in butter at the last minute.
Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices,
into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the
kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and
one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and
roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with
the sauce.
Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.
1664—ROGNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTRÉES FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.
Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise.
Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.
Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of
foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined
with an equal weight of fresh butter.
Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the
requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light
jelly.
They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly,
and used as a garnish for cold fowls.
1664a—CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETS
The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made
up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of
shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or
rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their
name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.
The preparation from which they are made is as follows:—One lb. of
the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin,
cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice[1]; six oz. of
cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and
four oz. of truffles. Cut these various products like the chicken, and
mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished
Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few
minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and
thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly
mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered
tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the
cooling.
When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon,
in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make
the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into
an _anglaise_, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape
them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have
acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on
a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.
Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the
accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux
sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the
purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, and _jardinières_.
[Footnote 1: When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of
poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the
preparation of croquettes or cutlets.]
=Chickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)=
1665—BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLE
Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them
exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No. 1343).
1666—FOIES DE VOLAILLE ET ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU VIN ROUGE
Proceed according to the recipe given under “Rognons Sautés au
Champagne” (No. 1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys
in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the
Champagne.
N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also prepared _sautés_ chasseur; _sautés_
fines herbes, au _gratin_; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’s
kidneys for these preparations.
1667—FRICASSÉE DE POULET A L’ANCIENNE
For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for a _sauté_, but divide the
legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau”
(No. 1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.
About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions, cooked in white
consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last
moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce
at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of
cream, and one oz. of best butter.
Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of
puff-paste, baked without colouration.
1668—FRICASSÉE DE POULET AUX ÉCREVISSES
Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small,
cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as
for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and
one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses
and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.
Dish in a timbale.
1669—FRITÔT OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLE
Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and _marinade_ these in a
few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter
hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its
meat facilitates the percolation of the _marinade_ through it.
A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter,
and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is well
_gilded_; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce
separately.
N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt and Marinade of fowl are identically the same
dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was
prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade from pieces of uncooked
fowl which were _marinaded_ beforehand.
1670—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE
Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mousseline
forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared
singly for one service, _i.e._, for several people at once, and that
the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared
in the proportion of one or two for each person.
In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the subject
has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore,
to go over the ground again.
1671—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA
Mould and poach the _Mousselines_. Drain them, and set them in a circle
on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon
the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly,
and, in the middle of the _mousselines_, set a heap of asparagus-heads
or small peas, cohered with butter.
1672—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE
Prepare the _mousselines_ as above; set them in a circle on a round
dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à
l’Indienne separately.
1673—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKA
When the _mousselines_ are poached and dished, set upon each a fine
collop of _suprême_, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround
them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined with _concassed_
tomatoes cooked in butter.
1674—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA PATTI
Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême
sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine
slices of glazed truffles.
1675—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA SICILIENNE
Prepare the _mousselines_ as above, and set them, each on an oval
tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with
suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.
1676—SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLE
Prepare and poach the _mousselines_ in the usual way. Garnish the
bottom of some _barquettes_ with Mornay sauce, and put a _mousseline_
into each _barquette_.
Set a collop of fowl on each _mousseline_, and cover them with a
somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), applied
ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put
the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the _soufflé_, and serve
instantly.
1677—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA FLORENTINE
Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference,
viz., that the bottom of the _barquettes_ must be garnished with
shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the
operation the procedure is the same.
1678—PILAW DE VOLAILLE
Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an
endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl
are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give
below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but
for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is
not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”
1679—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA GRECQUE
Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz.
of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one
pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice,
and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.
Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.
1680—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE
Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered
ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the
sauce.
Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.
1681—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA PARISIENNE
Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and
add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one
chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes.
Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very
hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and
rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.
Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with
the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.
Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.
1682—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA TURQUE
Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a
little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.
N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices
which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides
of a timbale with _tomatéd_ pilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the
middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.
Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.
1683—SOUFFLÉS DE VOLAILLE
For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw
chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.
N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chicken _soufflés_ with cooked
chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a
little too much than not enough.
For a _soufflé_ made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven
as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.
1684—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEAT
Prepare two lbs. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken, according to
recipe No. 195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff
froth.
Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.
1685—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEAT
Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto
six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.
Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and
add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and
the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.
Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.
Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the
best accompaniments to chicken _soufflés_.
1686—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE A LA PÉRIGORD
This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned
preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of
chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by
slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in
all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.
=Cold Preparations of Fowl.=
1687—POULARDE A LA CARMÉLITE
Poach the pullet; raise the _suprêmes_ and remove their skin; slice
them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them
soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with
white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfish _mousse_,
reconstructing it exactly in so doing.
Cause a _mousse_ to set in a refrigerator; place the collops of
_suprême_ neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen
fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.
Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish;
incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good,
melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.
1688—POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNE
Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with
truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes. _Poële_ it in
champagne; put it in a _cocotte_; cover it with its _poëling_-liquor,
containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to
cool.
On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled
on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water,
in order to remove the last traces of grease.
Serve this pullet very cold, in the same _cocotte_ in which it has
cooled.
1689—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID
Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and
clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce,
already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and
arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of
truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the
edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.
_Old method of dishing_: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a
cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly;
and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with
chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.
They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but
these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery,
are generally scouted at the present day.
The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it
allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in
the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the
Savoy Hotel.
_Modern method of dishing_: Set the decorated pieces, coated with
chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly,
lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same
aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to
serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with
the latter fragmented.
This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the
preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more
delicate, mellow, and melting.
1690—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the _suprêmes_, and cut
each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion,
with a _salpicon_ consisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined
with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with
reduced chicken jelly.
Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them
immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled
white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.
Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them
with oval slices of salted tongue.
Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and
cohered with aspic.
1691—CHAUD-FROID FELIX FAURE
Raise the _suprêmes_ of a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick
part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on
a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a
layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat.
Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in.
thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter;
coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole
press the other half of the _suprême_. Wrap each _suprême_, prepared in
this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after
having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock;
and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.
This done, take off the muslin, and cut each _suprême_ into ten or
twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a _mousse_ of chicken made
with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each
medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice
of truffle.
_Clothe_ a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with
slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an
aspic, and leave to set.
When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.
1692—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA GOUNOD
Raise the _suprêmes_ of a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.
Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect
them in the thickness.
Prepare a slab of _mousse_ (made from the legs and the trimmings),
twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this _mousse_ neatly, and
put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into
pieces exactly equal in size to the _suprêmes_; to do this, all that is
necessary is to stick the latter on the _mousse_ by means of jelly.
Now coat each _suprême_ garnished with _mousse_ with white chaud-froid
sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.
Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting
chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of
ice.
1693—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA ROSSINI
Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with
chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth
foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle
stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square
dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.
1694—POULARDE A LA DAMPIERRE
Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation
of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an
entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.
When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce,
combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it,
without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.
Surround it with six small, ham _mousses_ and six small, chicken
_mousses_, moulded in deep _dariole-moulds_, and arranged alternately.
Border the dish with _croûtons_ of jelly, cut very neatly.
1695—POULETS A L’ÉCARLATE
Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them
as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white
chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic
jelly, and leave to set.
This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against
the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright,
with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the
tongues, a large glazed truffle.
Border the dish with fine _croûtons_ of jelly, and serve a mayonnaise
sauce at the same time.
1696—POULARDE A LA LAMBERTYE
Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.
Raise the _suprêmes_, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish
the cavity with a cold chicken _mousse_, combined with a quarter of
its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to
reconstruct the bird.
Cut the _suprêmes_ into thin, long slices; coat them with white
chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the _mousse_, pressing them
lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with
chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted
jelly.
When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.
1697—POULARDE A LA NEVA
Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined with foie
gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it
cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate
with jelly, and leave to set.
Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the
bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in
a large, silver shell.
Border the dish with neatly-cut _croûtons_ of pale jelly.
1698—POULARDE ROSE DE MAI
Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its _suprêmes_
and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white
chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with a
_mousse_ of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in such wise as
to reconstruct the bird.
Slice the _suprêmes_; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce;
decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with
the same _mousse_ as that already used for the pullet, as many small,
_barquette_-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to
set.
Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish;
surround it with the _barquettes_ of _mousse_, turned out at the
last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each _barquette_, and
distribute _croûtons_ of jelly over the dish.
1699—POULARDE ROSE MARIE
Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its _suprêmes_; cut these
into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the
carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish it with very smooth and
pink, ham _mousse_, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put
to set in the refrigerator.
Mould in small, oval moulds, as many _barquettes_ of the same ham
_mousse_ as there are collops.
When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid
sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate
according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.
Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place the
_barquettes_ of ham _mousse_ around it; set a collop on each _mousse_
and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish with
_croûtons_ of aspic.
1700—POULARDE A LA SAINT-CYR
_Poële_ the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its
cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular
slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.
Meanwhile, _sauté_ fifteen larks in a _mirepoix_; remove the fillets
of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate
them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.
With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare a
_mousse_, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained
in the preceding recipes. When the _mousse_ has set properly, coat it
with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with
white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of the _mousse_; in the middle
put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let
them slightly overlap one another.
Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken
jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of
ice.
1701—POULARDE EN TERRINE A LA GELÉE
Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat
consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz.
of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of _gratin_ forcemeat,
prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two
tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.
In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw,
quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for
an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, and _poële_ in Madeira for
one and one-half hours.
Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove
the slices of bacon, and put it in a _terrine_ just large enough to
hold it.
Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should
not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin;
and pour this sauce over the pullet.
Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease
as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No. 1688).
Serve the _terrine_ in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all
round.
1702—TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVE
Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large
enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put
it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.
This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that
the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.
1703—AILERONS DE POULET A LA CARMÉLITE
Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise its _suprêmes_ and leave
the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat;
skin the _suprêmes_, and coat them with a little jelly.
Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way
up with crayfish _mousse_. Upon this _mousse_, set the two _suprêmes_,
opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed
crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a
succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two
hours.
1704—AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMER
Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the _suprêmes_
just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding
recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.
With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken _mousse_, and mould
it in a dome-mould. When the _mousse_ is set, turn it out on a dish,
and place the wings all round, fixing them on the _mousse_, with their
points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.
Cover the _mousse_ on top, and the gaps between the points of the
_suprêmes_ with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately.
In the middle of the _mousse_, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a
small _hatelet_.
1705—ASPIC DE POULET A L’ITALIENNE
_Clothe_ a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the
procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954), and decorate it
with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarse _julienne_
of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive
layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.
When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set
a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce
separately.
1706—ASPIC DE POULET A LA GAULOISE
_Clothe_ an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and
sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of:
aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with
brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white
chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.
When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine _croûtons_ of
aspic.
1707—MÉDAILLONS DE VOLAILLE RACHEL
Prepare some chicken _suprêmes_ as explained under “Chaud-froid Félix
Faure” (No. 1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a
round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.
Prepare a _mousse_ from the meat of the legs. Spread this _mousse_ on
a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it
is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot
water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.
Set a medallion on each roundel of _mousse_, fixing it there by means
of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this
way on a square dish.
In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps
between the medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of
asparagus-heads with cream.
Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.
1708—GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE
For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be
roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield
a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.
The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully
boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the
back, from the head to the tail.
This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a small, sharp
knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs,
flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the
skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen.
Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square,
and put the resulting trimmings aside.
Season these pieces and _marinade_ them in a few drops of brandy;
prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of
truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and
four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the
legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as
much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season
these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely;
pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the
fillets were _marinaded_.
Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of
the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set
the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them
alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat,
equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and
finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.
Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former
round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the
galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.
With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh _blanched_ pork
rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No. 10). When
this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it,
and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.
At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a
dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it
has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied
at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not
exceeding five or six lbs.
The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified
as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the
galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering
it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and
dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy
may dictate with pieces of jelly.
1709—PAIN DE VOLAILLE FROID
_Poële_ a very tender chicken; do not colour it and have it only
just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two tablespoonfuls
of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of burned brandy to the
_poëling_-liquor.
Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a sieve, and slightly
press the vegetables in so doing, that all their juices may be
expressed.
Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure more
than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire, add the yolks
of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add, little by little,
six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a Hollandaise sauce.
Finally, add one and one-half leaves of gelatine, dissolved in two
tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and rub the whole through tammy.
Meanwhile, raise the chicken’s fillets and cut them into wide and thin
collops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each collop with a
slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly, and with them line
the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould, already _clothed_ with jelly
and incrusted in ice.
Then completely bone the chicken; finely pound the remainder of its
meat as well as the skin; rub the whole through a fine sieve, and add
the resulting purée to the prepared sauce. Mix the whole well, and fill
the mould with it. Allow to set well, and turn out on a cushion of rice
surrounded by fine _croûtons_ of jelly.
N.B.—By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some kind of game
such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the chicken, this recipe may be
applied to any piece of poultry or game.
1710—SUPRÊME DE VOLAILLE JEANNETTE
Poach a fowl; let it cool; raise its _suprêmes_, and cut each into four
collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these collops with white
chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with tarragon leaves, _blanched_,
cooled, well-drained and very green.
Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom of a
timbale or a square dish; upon this layer set some slices of foie-gras
Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place one of the latter
on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover with fine half-melted
chicken jelly.
When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a block of
carved ice.
1711—MOUSSE DE VOLAILLE FROIDE
The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl may be used in
the preparation of this _mousse_, but a freshly-roasted fowl, scarcely
cooled, is preferable; the latter’s flavour being more delicate and
more distinct.
The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl _mousse_ are
those given under “mousse de tomates” (No. 814).
The various _mousse_ recipes which I gave for trout (Nos. 813 and 815)
may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case, the latter may
be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce, or simply glazed with
jelly, and soberly decorated.
These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and from a very
long list of them I may quote:—
Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.
Mousse d’écrevisses au blanc de poulet.
Mousse d’airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.
1712—MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE
Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with _ciseled_ lettuce, arranging it
in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt and a few drops of
vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold collops of boiled or roast
fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.
Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate with
capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered hard-boiled
eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.
Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy, as no hard
and fast rule can be given.
When about to serve, mix as for a salad.
1713—CHICKEN SALAD
This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding one, except
for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an ordinary seasoning added
just before mixing and serving.
1714—PÂTÉ DE POULET
Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2359), taking care to
leave a fine crest.
Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the _suprêmes_ (each
cut into three collops) to _marinade_ in a glass of brandy, salt,
pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled truffles, each cut into
four or five thick slices.
With what remains of the fowl’s meat, as much lean pork and veal (mixed
in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh, pork fat (_i.e._, a
quantity equal in weight to all the other meats put together), prepare
a very smooth forcemeat; chopping the whole first, then pounding it
and rubbing it through a sieve. Add to this forcemeat a little truffle
essence; the _marinade_ of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary
seasoning, to wit: salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat; on this
first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and thick slices of
tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another slice of bacon, followed
by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer of truffle slices, another layer
of forcemeat, the collops of fowl, another layer of forcemeat, one
more layer of truffles, one more layer of forcemeat, one more layer of
tongue or ham (between two thin slices of bacon); and finally cover the
whole with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding bacon
superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a cover of the same
paste as that already used, carefully seal down the cover to the crest
of the underlying paste, trim and pinch the crest, and deck this cover
of paste with imitation-leaves of the same paste.
Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam; carefully
_gild_ the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate oven for about
one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing the pie from the oven, let it
half cool, and fill it with a succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish
to cool for at least twenty-four hours before serving.
N.B.—With this recipe as model, and by substituting another piece of
poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may be prepared from every
kind of game or poultry, except water-game, which only yields mediocre
results.
In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with one-sixth of
its weight of _gratin_ forcemeat (No. 202) and an equal quantity of
fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly is also replaced by a jelly
prepared from the carcasses of the birds under treatment.
Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.
1714a—CHICKEN PIE
See No. 1660.
1715—DINDONNEAU (Young Turkey)
Young turkeys, served as relevés or entrées, admit of all the recipes
given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition,
the reader is begged to refer to those recipes.
Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones termed
“à l’Anglaise”—with celery, à la Financière, à la Godard, and à la
Jardinière.
In addition to these preparations, there are others which are better
suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and these I give below.
1716—DINDONNEAU FARCI AUX MARRONS
Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chestnuts;
immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel them, and almost
completely cook them in consommé. Then mix them with two lbs. of very
finely-chopped pork, rubbed through tammy. Fill the bird with this
preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting
frequently the while.
Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be somewhat fat.
1717—DINDONNEAU A LA CATALANE
Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassée, and fry the pieces in
three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely browned, swill the
utensil with one pint of white wine; season with salt and pepper; add
a piece, the size of a pea, of crushed garlic, and completely reduce.
Then moisten with sufficient tomato purée and equal quantities of
Espagnole and brown stock to just cover the pieces.
Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to another
dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half lb. of raw, quartered
mushrooms, _sautéd_ in butter; twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé;
twenty small, glazed onions; five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.
Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the cooking for
twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.
1718—DINDONNEAU CHIPOLATA
This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether it be
intended for lunch or for dinner.
(1) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter as above.
Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a sufficient quantity of
_tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce, just to cover the pieces, and cook in the
oven for forty minutes.
This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add thereto
twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé, ten
chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled pieces of fresh pork cut
into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and glazed carrots. Strain the sauce
over the whole, complete the cooking and dish in a timbale.
(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment, and set on a
long dish. Surround it with the garnish given above, combined with the
reduced braising-liquor.
1719—DINDONNEAU EN DAUBE
Bone the young turkey’s breast, and stuff it, arranging its meat as for
a galantine, with very good sausage-meat combined with a glassful of
liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the former; bacon, truffles; and a very
small and red ox-tongue, covered with slices of bacon and set in the
centre of the garnish.
Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put it in a
_terrine_ just large enough to hold it and its moistening.
With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey, two slices of
veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint of white wine, and
two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock after recipe No. 9. Reduce
this stock to one and one-half quarts; put it into the _terrine_; cover
and thoroughly close up the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a
hot oven for two and one-half hours.
Leave to cool in the _terrine_, and, when about to serve, slightly heat
the latter in order to turn out the daube.
1720—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA DAMPIERRE
Remove and bone the young turkey’s legs. With the meat, carefully
cleared of all tendons, prepare a _mousseline_ forcemeat; spread the
latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and poach it. Stamp it
out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about three in. by two in.
Braise or _poële_ the young turkey’s breast with the greatest care,
keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two _suprêmes_, skin
them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow of their
being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used. With a little raw
forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of poached forcemeat; then, by
means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, garnish the borders of
the collops with the same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of
chopped salted tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered
tray, and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.
When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a fine rosette of a
purée of peas in the centre of each medallion. Set these medallions in
a circle on a round dish, around a little bowl of carved, fried bread,
garnished with the same purée of peas.
Serve separately a velouté prepared from the bones of the dindonneau.
1721—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE
_Poële_ the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its _suprêmes_, skin
them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.
Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras, _sautéd_
in butter, between each.
Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround with a thread
of light glaze.
1722—AILERONS DE DINDONNEAU DORÉS A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS
The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly so called;
that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of the wing. When
they are properly prepared, they constitute one of the most savoury
luncheon entrées that can be served.
The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.
Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered sautépan, just
large enough to hold them. Colour gently on both sides and drain.
In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion, to which
add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay. Set the pinions
on these aromatics; season moderately with salt and pepper; cover the
sautépan, and continue cooking gently in a very slow oven, basting
often the while.
The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and
regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do
so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from
clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce.
When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that
they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some
water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen
minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse
the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the
grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be
somewhat fat.
Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of
marrons separately.
1722a—DINDONNEAU FROID
All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird.
=Goose (Oie)=
The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies
in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie
gras.
Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly
inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables.
1722b—OISON A L’ALLEMANDE
Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it
with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter.
Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while.
When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples,
cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished
with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-quarters of the grease; swill
the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts;
strain this gravy, and serve it separately.
1722c—OISON A L’ALSACIENNE
Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat; truss; colour in butter
and _poële_. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease,
and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut.
1723—OISON A L’ANGLAISE
Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel
them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed
bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the
spit or in the oven.
Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and
serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately.
1724—OISON EN CIVET
When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of
a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite
cold.
Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for “Civet de
Lièvre” (No. 1821).
1725—OISON AU RAIFORT
Braise the gosling.
Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or
rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced
braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138),
separately.
N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like
young turkeys, _i.e._, with chestnuts, à la Chipolata, en Daube; or
with turnips, peas, and “en Salmis,” like Duck.
1726—FOIE GRAS
Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is
larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule
the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the
matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver
may be used and with very good results when its quality is good.
Foies gras are used in the preparation of _terrines_, raised pies,
parfaits and _mousses_, which are among the most delicate and richest
of cold dishes.
They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of
collops or _mousseline_ quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as
hot entrées.
When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be trimmed,
studded with raw truffles which have been previously peeled, quartered,
seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in a glassful of brandy,
together with a bay-leaf, and cooled in a thoroughly closed _terrine_.
When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it in
thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig’s caul, and set it in a
thoroughly-sealed _terrine_ before cooking it.
The best way to cook foie gras, when it is to be served whole and hot,
is to bake it in a crust of paste that can absorb the excess of grease
produced by the melting of the liver. For this purpose prepare two
layers of patty paste, a little larger than the liver.
On one of these layers, set the liver wrapped in slices of bacon; and,
if possible, surround it with whole fair-sized truffles, peeled. Set
half a bay-leaf on the liver; moisten the edges of the paste; cover
the whole with the other layer of paste; seal it down with the thumb,
and fold over the edges of the paste to form a regular, ornamented
border which, besides finishing off the preparation, also increases the
strength of the welding.
_Gild_ the top; streak; make a slit in the top for the escape of the
steam; and, in the case of a medium-sized liver, cook in a good,
moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.
Serve this crust as it stands, and send the garnish separately.
In the dining-room, the waiter in charge removes the top of the crust,
cuts out the liver with a spoon, setting a piece on each plate, and
arranges around each piece the garnish mentioned on the menu.
I am not partial to the cooking of foie gras in a _terrine_ when it is
to be served hot. In any case the method described above strikes me as
being much the best, whatever be the garnish that is served with the
liver.
I particularly recommend a garnish of noodles, macaroni, lazagnes,
spaghetti and even rice, with hot foie gras.
These pastes should simply be cooked in water and finished with cream.
This accompaniment makes the foie gras much more digestible and
palatable. The best garnishes for hot foie gras, besides those given
above, are truffles, whole or in slices, or a Financière. In the matter
of brown sauces, a Madeira sauce suits admirably, provided it be of
great delicacy and not overcharged with Madeira; but a very light
buttered, veal or chicken glaze, combined with a little old Sherry
or old Port, is even superior. A Hongroise sauce with paprika or an
excellent suprême sauce may also be served when the garnish admits of
it.
1727—FOIE GRAS CUIT DANS UNE BRIOCHE
For this dish the foie gras is cooked differently; the result is almost
the same as that yielded by the crust prescribed above, except that it
is much more delicate. This method, moreover, allows of obtaining a
foie gras clear of all grease (the latter being completely absorbed by
the paste), and is therefore best suited to cold dishing.
After having studded the foie gras with truffles and placed it in a
closed _terrine_ as above, wrap it in slices of bacon, set it to poach
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and leave it to cool.
Line a buttered timbale-mould, of a size in proportion to that of
the liver, with a thick layer of ordinary unsugared brioche paste
(No. 2370).
Put the foie gras upright in the mould, which it should almost fill;
close the timbale with a cover of the same paste; make a slit in the
top; surround the top of the mould with a band of strong, buttered
paper, that the paste may be prevented from running over, and let it
rest for about thirty minutes in a temperature of 86° F. to allow the
paste to work.
Bake in a rather hot oven, until a needle inserted through the centre
withdraws quite clean.
Serve the dish as it stands with one of the ordinary foie-gras
garnishes.
1728—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA PÉRIGUEUX
Cut some slices two and one-half oz. in weight from a raw foie
gras. Season them with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg; roll in
finely-chopped truffle, and _sauté_ in clarified butter.
Dish in a circle, and, in the middle, pour a Madeira sauce flavoured
with truffle essence.
1729—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA RAVIGNAN
From a layer of unsugared brioche paste, one-third in. thick, cut
twenty roundels two and one-half in. in diameter. On ten of these
roundels, spread a coating of chicken forcemeat, leaving a margin
one-third in. wide of bare paste on each roundel.
Set a slice of truffle in the middle, a thick roundel of raw foie gras
on the truffle, another slice of truffle upon that, a coat of forcemeat
over the whole; and cover with the ten remaining roundels, after having
slightly moistened the latter, that the two edges of paste may be
sealed. Press with the back of a round cutter; _gild_, and cook in a
hot oven for fifteen minutes.
Dish in a circle, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.
1730—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA TALLEYRAND
Prepare: (1) a crust made in a flawn-mould, six in. in diameter;
(2) a garnish of _blanched_ macaroni, cut into lengths of one in.,
cohered with four oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheese per lb. of
macaroni, and combined with two oz. of butter, four oz. of a _julienne_
of truffles and four oz. of foie gras cut into large dice.
Dish in a circle in the crust ten collops of foie gras _sautéd_ in
butter, alternating them with fine slices of truffle. Put the macaroni
in the middle, shaping it like a dome, sprinkle with grated cheese and
glaze quickly.
Dish on a napkin, and serve separately a clear chicken glaze, flavoured
with truffles and well buttered.
1731—SOUFFLÉ DE FOIE GRAS
Rub two-thirds lb. of foie gras and three and one-half oz. of raw
truffles through a fine sieve. Mix the two purées in a basin, and add
two-thirds lb. of raw chicken-meat, pounded with the whites of four
eggs, and rubbed through a fine sieve. Season; work the preparation on
ice, and add to it, little by little, one-half pint of rich, thick, and
very fresh cream, then the well-stiffened whites of four eggs.
Dish in a buttered _soufflé_ saucepan, and poach under cover in the
_bain-marie_ for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.
Serve a Madeira sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
1732—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS A L’ALSACIENNE
Prepare an ordinary timbale crust. When about to serve, fill it
with layers of noodles with cream, separated by alternate layers of
foie-gras collops, _sautéd_ in butter, and slices of truffles. Complete
with some raw noodles, tossed in butter and distributed over the last
layer of cohered noodles.
Cover the timbale, and serve a suprême sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence, separately.
1733—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS CAMBACÉRÈS
Line a buttered dome-mould with rings of large poached macaroni.
These rings should be one-fifth inch thick, and should be garnished
inside with very black truffle purée, cohered by means of a little
forcemeat.
When the mould is lined, coat it inside with a layer of chicken
forcemeat combined with truffle purée. Put the mould for a few minutes
in a moderate oven, that the forcemeat may poach.
Reduce one-third pint of Béchamel sauce, combined with four to five
tablespoonfuls of truffle and chicken essence, to half; mix therewith
one-half lb. of poached macaroni, cut into lengths of one inch,
and four tablespoonfuls of foie-gras and truffle purée, made from
trimmings. Mix the whole thoroughly.
Garnish the timbale with this macaroni, spreading it in layers,
separated by other alternate layers of foie-gras collops, poached in
Madeira, and slices of truffle. Cover the garnish with a layer of
forcemeat, and poach in the _bain-marie_, allowing forty-five minutes
for a quart-mould.
Let the mould stand for a few minutes before emptying it; turn out
the timbale upon a round dish; surround it with a border of Périgueux
sauce, and serve a sauceboat of Périgueux sauce separately.
1734—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS MONTESQUIEU
Spread a very even layer, one-third inch thick, of chicken forcemeat
upon a sheet of buttered paper. Moisten the surface with some white of
egg; sprinkle with chopped truffle, and press on the latter by means of
the flat of a knife.
Set to poach gently; cool, and then stamp out with a round, even
cutter, one inch in diameter. With the resulting roundels, garnish
the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould, placing their truffled
sides against the mould. Then, with the view of binding these roundels
together, as they are to constitute the outside of the timbale, coat
the whole of the mould inside with some fairly firm chicken forcemeat,
combined with a quarter of its bulk of foie-gras purée.
Fill the mould with a foie-gras Parfait with truffles cut into very
large dice and cohered by means of _mousseline_ chicken forcemeat.
Cover the whole with a layer of the same forcemeat as that used for the
purpose of binding the roundels, and set to poach under cover.
Turn out, following the same precautions as above; surround the timbale
with a border of nice, pink, Hungarian sauce with paprika, and send a
sauceboat of this sauce to the table at the same time.
=Foie Gras Froid=
1735—ASPIC DE FOIE GRAS
_Clothe_ an even or ornamented mould (fitted with a central tube) with
aspic, and decorate it with poached white of egg and truffle. Fill it
with rows of well-trimmed foie-gras rectangles, or shells raised by
means of a spoon dipped in hot water, separating each row with a coat
of aspic.
Except for its principal ingredient, which may vary, the preparation
of aspic is always the same as that described under “Aspic de Homard”
(No. 954).
For the turning out and dishing, proceed in exactly the same way.
1736—FOIE GRAS GASTRONOME
Take a plain foie-gras Parfait, _i.e._, one without a crust; trim
it neatly to the shape of an egg, and completely cover it with a
chaud-froid sauce with paprika. Decorate it according to fancy, and
glaze it with cold melted jelly.
Cut out a crust, proportionate in size to the egg, and shape it like a
cushion. Coat it with a chaud-froid sauce of a different colour; deck
it with softened butter, applied by means of a piping-bag fitted with a
narrow, grooved pipe; set it on the dish, and place the foie-gras egg
upon it.
Surround the cushion with fine fair-sized truffles, glazed with aspic
jelly.
1737—FOIE GRAS AU PAPRIKA
Trim a fine, fresh foie gras; salt it; sprinkle it with a
coffeespoonful of paprika; put it into a saucepan with a large sliced
Spanish onion and a bay-leaf, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.
This done, set it instantly in an oval _terrine_, after having
carefully removed every bit of onion; cover it with its own grease;
fill up the _terrine_ with jelly, and leave to cool.
Keep in the cool until ready for serving.
N.B.—In Vienna, where this dish is usually served as a hors-d’œuvre,
with baked potatoes, the onion is not removed. The foie gras is left to
cool in the _terrine_ in which it has cooked, with all its grease, and
it is served thus, very cold.
This piece of information was kindly given to me by Madame Katinka.
1738—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS MARÉCHALE
From a _terrine_ of very firm foie gras cut the required number of
collops, giving them an oval shape. Make a preparation of “pain de
foie gras” (No. 1741) with the remains of the _terrine_, and cover the
collops with the preparation, shaping the latter in a dome upon them.
Coat these garnished collops with cream chaud-froid sauce; decorate
with a slice of truffle, and glaze with aspic.
With some foie-gras purée prepare some balls (of the shape of
bigaroons); in the centre of each place a little ball of truffle
in imitation of the stone of the fruit, and coat them with a
reddish-brown, chaud-froid sauce. This done, glaze them with jelly.
Dish the collops round a circular cushion, set upon a very cold dish;
arrange the bigaroons in a pyramid on the cushion, and border the dish
with fine, jelly _croûtons_.
1739—MOUSSE DE FOIE GRAS
For the preparation of the _mousse_, see No. 814. The procedure
and the quantities are always the same, and only the principal
ingredient changes. The moulding is also effected in the same way in
a jelly-_clothed_ and decorated mould, generally just large enough to
hold the requisite amount for one service, or in a silver timbale,
incrusted in ice.
1740—MOUSSELINES DE FOIE GRAS
I have oftentimes explained that the substance is the same from which
_mousses_ and _mousselines_ are prepared, and I have pointed out
wherein the difference between them lies.
Just like the other _mousselines_, those of foie gras are made in egg-
or quenelle-moulds, or others of the same kind. Foie-gras _mousselines_
are, according to circumstances, either simply glazed with aspic, or
coated with chaud-froid sauce and dished in a timbale with jelly. They
may also be moulded in little paper cases.
1741—PAIN DE FOIE GRAS
From a cold foie gras, braised in Madeira, cut a few collops and put
them aside. Clear the cooking-liquor of all grease, reduce to half, and
add the yolks of four eggs and one-half lb. of butter, proceeding as
for a Hollandaise sauce. Complete with a grilled, crushed, hazel-nut,
two leaves of dissolved gelatine, and, when the preparation is only
lukewarm, mix therewith (without working the whole overmuch) what
remains of the foie gras, rubbed through a sieve.
Spread this preparation in layers in an aspic-_clothed_ and decorated
mould, separating each layer with other alternate layers consisting of
the reserved collops and some slices of truffle.
Cover the last layer with aspic, and set the mould in a refrigerator
for a few hours.
When about to serve, turn out, and border the dish with fine, aspic
jelly _croûtons_.
1742—PARFAIT DE FOIE GRAS
Fresh foies gras do not bear transport very well, and, when sent from
a distance, often reach their destination tainted. It is, therefore,
difficult, whatever care may have been bestowed on their preparation,
to obtain the results which are achieved by manufacturers who are
renowned for this kind of produce. Consequently, it is preferable to
buy the Parfait of foie gras ready-made from a good firm rather than to
try to make it oneself.
1743—PAVÉ DE FOIE GRAS LUCULLUS
Let a coat of aspic, one-half inch thick, set on the bottom of a square
timbale, and lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Upon this jelly
spread a layer, two-thirds inch thick, of foie-gras purée, thinned by
means of a little melted jelly. When this purée has set, lay on it a
few foie-gras collops and slices of truffle; cover with aspic, and
continue thus with alternate layers of purée, collops, and aspic. Fill
up the mould with a layer of aspic jelly; put it in the refrigerator
for a few hours, and dish on a block of ice, cut to the shape of a
flagstone.
1744—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS TZARINE
Line a timbale-mould with ordinary patty paste, and cover the inside
all over with slices of larding bacon. Just in the middle set a fresh
foie gras, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice; surround it with
quails stuffed with a piece of truffle, and set upright with their
breasts against the slices of bacon. Fill up the mould with whole, raw,
and peeled truffles; cover the whole with a round slice of the same
bacon; cover the timbale with a layer of paste, well sealed down round
the edges; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in
a good, moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours.
On withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some succulent
veal stock, flavoured with Madeira, and sufficiently gelatinous to form
a nice jelly.
Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.
=Ducks and Ducklings (Canards et Canetons)=
Three varieties of the duck family are recognised in cookery, viz., the
Nantes duck, the Rouen duck, and the different kinds of wild duck. The
latter are generally used for roasts and in salmis.
The Rouen duck is also served more often as a roast than as an entrée.
The characteristic trait of its preparation lies in its being kept very
underdone, and it is very rarely braised. It is killed by suffocation,
and not by bleeding, which is the usual mode of killing other birds.
The Nantes duck, which is similar to the Aylesbury one, is not so
fleshy as the Rouen duck, and may be roasted, _poëled_, or braised.
1745—CANETON NANTAIS A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Take a piece of _manied_ butter the size of an egg, and insert it into
the duckling with chopped parsley and shallots. Truss the bird as for
an entrée; brown it in the oven, and put it in a stewpan already lined
for braising.
Moisten, just enough to cover, with white veal stock and Rhine wine
(in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the
latter), or ordinary good white wine, and braise slowly until cooking
is completed.
Meanwhile, braise in the usual way two lbs. of sauerkraut with
one-half lb. of salted breast of pork.
When it is three-parts done, drain it, and complete its cooking with
one-third pint of veal gravy and one-sixth pint of white wine, until
this moistening is completely reduced.
Set the sauerkraut in a border round a dish, and surround it with the
pork cut into small rectangles. Place the carved duck in the centre,
and coat it moderately with half-glaze sauce combined with the reduced
braising-liquor. Send the remains of this sauce separately.
1746—CANETON D’AYLESBURY POËLÉ A LA MENTHE
Stuff the duckling with one oz. of butter combined with a pinch of
chopped mint, and _poële_ it. Dish it; swill the stewpan with one-sixth
pint of clear, veal gravy and a little lemon juice; strain, add a pinch
of chopped mint, and pour this sauce over the duckling.
1747—CANETON MOLIÈRE
Bone the duckling, and stuff it with one lb. of _gratin_ foie-gras
forcemeat, combined with two-thirds lb. of good sausage-meat. Set two
rows of truffles in the middle of the thickest part of the forcemeat,
lengthwise, along the duckling. Reconstruct; sew up the skin, wrap in a
serviette, after the manner of a galantine, and poach in a stock made
from the carcass.
Glaze the duckling with some of this stock, strained, cleared of all
grease, and reduced. With what remains prepare a Madeira sauce, and add
thereto two oz. of sliced truffles.
Dish the duckling, after having removed all stitches from it, and coat
it with this sauce.
1748—CANETON BRAISÉ AUX NAVETS
Brown the duckling well in butter, and withdraw it from the saucepan.
Drain away the butter; swill with a little white wine; add two-thirds
pint of brown stock, as much Espagnole, and a faggot; return the duck
to this sauce, and braise gently.
With the reserved butter brown one lb. of turnips, shaped like
elongated garlic-cloves, and sprinkle them with a large pinch of
powdered sugar, that they may be glazed to a nice, light brown colour.
Also have ready twenty small onions, which should have been gently
cooked in butter.
When the duckling is half cooked, transfer it to another saucepan; put
the turnips and the onions round it; strain the sauce over the whole,
and complete the cooking gently.
Dish with the garnish of turnips and onions, arranged round the bird.
1749—CANETON AUX OLIVES
Prepare the duckling as above, and keep the sauce short and succulent.
A few minutes before serving, add one-half lb. of stoned and _blanched_
olives. Glaze the duckling at the last moment, and dish it surrounded
with the olives and the sauce.
1750—CANETON BRAISÉ A L’ORANGE
This braised duckling must not be confused with roast duckling, which
is also served “a l’orange,” for the two dishes are quite distinct.
As in the case of the roast, this duckling may be prepared with Seville
oranges; but, in this case, the sections of orange must not appear as
garnish, owing to their bitterness, and only the juice is used for the
sauce.
Braise the duckling in one-third pint of brown stock and two-thirds
pint of Espagnole sauce, and cook it sufficiently to allow of its being
cut with a spoon.
Clear the sauce of grease; reduce it to a stiff consistence; rub it
through tammy, and add the juice of two oranges and one half-lemon to
it, which should bring the sauce back to its original consistence.
Now add a _julienne_ of the _blanched_ yellow part only of the rind of
a half-orange and a half-lemon, but remember that the addition of the
juice and rind of the orange and the half-lemon only takes place at
the last moment, after which the sauce must not boil again. Glaze the
duckling, dish it, coat it slightly with sauce, and surround it with
sections of orange, skinned raw.
Serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1751—CANETON AUX PETITS POIS
Brown in butter six oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into large dice
and _blanched_, and fifteen small onions. Drain the pork and the
onions, and set the duckling to fry in the same butter. When it is
well coloured, remove the butter; swill with a little brown stock, and
add one-half pint of thin, half-glaze sauce, one and one-half pints of
fresh peas, one faggot, the pork dice and the onions, and complete the
cooking of the whole gently.
Dish the duckling, and cover it with the garnish and the sauce, after
having withdrawn the faggot therefrom and reduced the sauce so that it
only just covers the garnish.
1752—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE CANETON
Roast the duckling, keeping it somewhat underdone, and cut the
whole of the breast into long collops or very thin slices. Line a
buttered Charlotte mould with short paste, and cover the whole of the
inside with a layer of _gratin_ forcemeat (No. 202), combined with
four tablespoonfuls of very reduced half-glaze sauce per one and
two-thirds lb. of forcemeat—the necessary quantity for this pie.
On the layer of forcemeat arrange a litter of the slices of breast;
sliced, cooked mushrooms, and slices of truffle; and fill the mould in
this way, taking care to alternate the layers of forcemeat, slices of
breast, &c. Complete with a coat of forcemeat, upon which sprinkle a
pinch of powdered thyme and bay-leaf; close the mould with a thin layer
of paste, sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top; _gild_,
and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.
When taking the pie out of the oven, turn it upside-down on a dish;
detach the base; cut the latter into triangles, and set these
triangles round the pie. Cover the forcemeat, thus bared, with a few
tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce; set a large, grooved, cooked mushroom
just in the middle, and surround it with a crown of sliced truffle.
Serve a Madeira sauce separately.
1753—BALLOTINES DE CANETON
Bone the duckling, and completely clear the bones of all meat.
Remove all tendons from the latter, and chop it, together with half
its weight of veal, as much fresh pork fat, a third as much panada
(No. 190), the yolks of four eggs, one-half oz. of salt, and a little
pepper and nutmeg. Pound; rub through a sieve, and mix with this
forcemeat, three oz. of _gratin_ foie-gras forcemeat and three oz.
of chopped mushrooms, _sautéd_ in butter. Divide up into portions
weighing two oz.; wrap each portion in a piece of the duckling’s skin;
envelop in muslin, and poach in a stock prepared from the duckling’s
carcass. At the last moment, remove the pieces of muslin and glaze the
ballotines.
Dish in a circle, and set the selected garnish, which may be turnips,
peas, olives, or sauerkraut, &c., in the middle.
1754—CANETON ROUENNAIS
Except for the one case when they are served cold “à la cuiller,” Rouen
ducklings are not braised: they are roasted and always kept underdone.
When they have to be stuffed, the forcemeat is prepared as follows:—Fry
four oz. of larding bacon, cut into dice, with one oz. of chopped
onion, and add one-half lb. of sliced ducks’ livers, a pinch of chopped
parsley, salt, pepper, and a little spice.
Keep the livers underdone, merely stiffened; let the whole half-cool;
pound, and rub through a fine sieve.
1755—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS A LA BIGARRADE
_Poële_ the duckling and only just cook it, bearing in mind that
twenty minutes is the time allowed for cooking a fair-sized bird.
Remove the fillets lengthwise, each in ten slices, and set the latter
on a lukewarm dish.
Add a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy to the _poëling_-liquor; set to
boil for a few minutes; strain clear of grease, and finish as directed
under sauce Bigarrade claire (No. 31).
Cover the slices of breast with some of the sauce, and serve the
remainder separately. “Aiguillettes” (or thin slices of breast cut
lengthwise) à l’orange are prepared in the same way, except that they
are surrounded with sections of orange, skinned raw.
1756—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX CERISES
Prepare the duckling as above, but add a little Madeira to the
braising-liquor. Clear the latter of grease; thicken with arrowroot;
strain through muslin, and add one-half lb. of stoned morello cherries,
at the last moment. Set the cherries round the _aiguillettes_; coat
the latter thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the latter,
separately.
1757—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX TRUFFES
_Poële_ the duckling, and only just cook it.
Add one-sixth pint of Chambertin wine to the _poëling_-liquor, and
cook therein five medium-sized, peeled truffles. This done, reduce the
liquor, clear of grease, strain it, and add it to a somewhat light
Rouennaise sauce.
Raise the duckling’s _aiguillettes_, slice the truffles, and set on
a lukewarm dish, alternating the _aiguillettes_ with the slices of
truffle.
Coat thinly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter separately.
1758—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU CHAMPAGNE
_Poële_ the duckling as above.
Add one-half pint of dry Saint Marceaux champagne to the
_poëling_-liquor; reduce, and complete with one-sixth pint of
thickened, veal stock.
Strain this sauce through muslin; clear it of grease, and send it in a
sauceboat at the same time as the duckling.
1759—CANETON ROUENNAIS EN CHEMISE
Stuff the duckling with the preparation given under No. 1754; truss
it as for an entrée; insert it into a well-soaked bladder, and string
the end of the latter close to the bird’s tail. Wrap the bladder in a
napkin, also strung, and poach gently for about forty-five minutes in
a very strong brown stock. When about to serve, remove the napkin, and
leave the duckling in the bladder.
Serve a Rouennaise sauce as an accompaniment.
1760—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU PORTO
Roast the duckling “_en casserole_,” keeping it only just done.
Swill with one-fifth pint of port wine; reduce to half, and add this
reduced swilling-liquor to one-half pint of duckling gravy, thickened
with arrowroot.
1761—CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA PRESSE
Roast the duckling for twenty minutes, and send it instantly to the
table, where it should be treated as follows:—Remove the legs, which
are not served; carve the fillets into fine slices, laid one against
the other on a lukewarm dish.
Chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a
glassful of good red wine. Collect the gravy; add thereto a few drops
of brandy, and with this liquor sprinkle the slices of breast, which
should have been well seasoned.
Put the dish on a chafer, and thoroughly heat without allowing to boil.
Serve instantly.
1762—CANETON FARCI A LA ROUENNAISE
Stuff the duckling with the forcemeat given under No. 1754, and roast
it before a fierce fire for from twenty-five to thirty minutes,
according to its size.
Send a Rouennaise sauce to the table with it.
If it be served carved, remove the legs, _cisel_ them inside, season
them well with salt and pepper, and grill them.
Cut the fillets into thin slices, set these on either side of a long
dish, and, in the middle, place the forcemeat withdrawn from the inside.
Set the grilled legs at either end of the dish.
Roughly chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with
a glass of liqueur-brandy and a few drops of lemon juice. Add the
collected gravy to the Rouennaise sauce: coat the slices of breast
thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1763—SALMIS DE CANETON A LA ROUENNAISE
After having suppressed the clavicle, truss the duckling.
Put it in a red oven, where it should only stay eight minutes, _i.e._,
four minutes each side.
If possible, let it cool for a few minutes, that it may be more easily
carved. Take care, also, to wipe it, for, as a rule, the fierceness of
the oven blackens it. Remove the legs; _cisel_ them inside; season and
grill them.
Sprinkle a long, buttered dish with chopped shallots, kitchen salt not
too finely powdered, freshly-ground pepper, nutmeg, and allspice.
Cut the fillets into very thin slices lengthwise, fifteen from each
fillet, and set them one against the other on the dish. Sprinkle them
with the same seasoning as that lying on the dish, except for the
shallots.
Remove the remaining stumps of the wings, as also the small, remaining
skin of the breast; season both, and set them to grill by the side of
the legs. Roughly chop up the carcass; press it while sprinkling it
with half a glassful of red wine, and sprinkle the slices of breast
with the collected gravy.
When about to serve, set a few small pieces of butter on the slices of
breast; heat for a moment on the stove, and put the dish in a very hot
oven, or at the salamander, that the glazing may be instantaneous.
Withdraw the dish the moment the edges of the _aiguillettes_ begin
to curl, set the grilled legs at either end of the dish, the two
wing-stumps, with the skin of the breast, in the middle, and serve
immediately.
1764—SOUFFLÉ DE CANETON ROUENNAIS
_Poële_ the duckling, and only just cook it.
Raise the _suprêmes_, and keep them hot, and cut the bones from the
carcass in such a way as to imitate a case, as I described in a number
of pullet recipes. With the duckling’s liver, the raw meat of another
half-duckling, the white of an egg, and three oz. of raw foie gras,
prepare a _mousseline_ forcemeat.
Fill the carcass with this forcemeat, shaping it so as to reconstruct
the bird. Surround it with a band of strong, buttered paper, so as to
avoid loss of shape, and poach gently, under cover, for twenty minutes.
With some reserved forcemeat, combined with an equal weight of
foie-gras purée, garnish some tartlet crusts, and poach them at the
same time as the _soufflé_.
Dish the piece; surround it with the tartlets; set a collop of
_suprême_ on each of the latter and serve a Rouennaise sauce separately.
=Canetons Froids=
1765—CANETON A LA CUILLER
Braise the duckling with Madeira, and cook it well. Put into a
_terrine_ just large enough to hold it; cover with the braising-liquor,
strained through a napkin, and combined with enough aspic jelly to
completely coat the duckling. Leave to cool.
When about to serve, clear the surface of grease, first by means of a
spoon, then with boiling water, and dish on a napkin.
1766—CANETON GLACÉ AUX MANDARINES
_Poële_ the duckling, and let it cool in its liquor.
When it is quite cold, set it on its back; glaze it with aspic jelly,
and place it on a low rice or carved-bread cushion lying on a long dish.
Surround it with emptied tangerines, filled with cold _mousse_ made
from ducklings’ livers and foie gras. Alternate the tangerines with
small timbales of aspic, combined with the _poëling_-liquor and the
juice squeezed from the sections of the tangerines.
1767—CANETON GLACÉ AUX CERISES
Roast the duckling, and keep it underdone.
When it is quite cold, remove the breast, and remove the bones in such
wise as to form a case with the carcass. Cut each fillet into eight
thin slices; coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate
with truffles. Fill the carcass with a _mousse_ made from the remains
of the meat, the duckling’s liver, and some foie gras, and shape it so
as to imitate the convex breast of the bird.
Glaze with aspic, and set in the refrigerator, that the _mousse_ may
harden. When the latter is firm, lay the chaud-froid-coated collops
upon it, and set the piece in a deep, square dish. Surround with cold,
stoned, morello cherries, poached in Bordeaux wine, and cover these
with an aspic jelly flavoured with duckling essence.
1768—AIGUILLETTES DE CANETONS A L’ÉCARLATE
_Poële_ a Rouen duckling until it is just cooked, and let it cool in
its liquor. Raise the fillets; skin them, and cut them each into eight
thin slices. Coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate
with truffles. Prepare an equal number of slices of tongue the size and
shape of the slices of duckling, and coat them with aspic.
With the remains and the meat of the legs, prepare a _mousse_, and
pour it into a square or oval silver dish; let it cool, and then
set the _aiguillettes_ of duckling and the slices of tongue upon it,
alternating them in so doing, and cover the _mousse_ with aspic.
1769—MOUSSE ET MOUSSELINES DE CANETON ROUENNAIS
These are prepared with the same quantities as the chicken _mousses_
and _mousselines_, but they allow of no other sauce than the Rouennaise
or the Bigarrade, nor of any other garnishes than sections of orange,
cherries, vegetable purées, or creams.
1770—MOUSSE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS
With the exception of the nature of the principal ingredient, the
preparation, quantities, and moulding of this _mousse_ are the same
as for chicken _mousse_. The reader is, therefore, begged to refer to
No. 1670, which may be applied perfectly well to Rouen duckling.
1771—SOUFFLÉ FROID DE CANETON A L’ORANGE
Proceed as for the “Caneton aux cerises,” but with this difference,
that the duckling is used entirely for the _mousse_.
Serve, similarly, in a square dish, and surround with sections of
oranges skinned raw. Cover with an aspic jelly flavoured with the juice
of Seville oranges, and combined with a liqueur-glassful of curaçao per
pint of jelly.
1772—TERRINE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA GELÉE
First prepare the following forcemeat:—Heat three oz. of fat bacon, cut
into small dice, and three oz. of butter in a frying-pan. Throw six
fine ducks’ livers (seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with a
pinch of powdered thyme, bay-leaf, and half an onion chopped) into this
fat. Toss them over a fierce fire, just long enough to heat them; leave
them to cool, and rub them through a sieve.
Bone the breast of a Rouen duckling and its back as far as the region
of the legs, and suppress the tail. Stuff it with the preparation given
above; truss as for an entrée, and put it in a _terrine_ just large
enough to hold it. Sprinkle it with a glassful of brandy; cover with a
slice of bacon, and cook it in the _bain-marie_, in the oven, and under
cover for forty minutes.
With the carcass and some strong veal stock, prepare two-thirds pint
of excellent aspic, and, when withdrawing the duckling from the oven,
cover it with this aspic, and let it cool. When about to serve, remove
all grease, first by means of a spoon, and then by means of boiling
water, and set the _terrine_ on a napkin lying on a long dish.
1773—TIMBALE DE CANETON A LA VOISIN
Roast a Rouen duckling, and keep it underdone; let it cool, and raise
its fillets. With the carcass prepare a Salmis sauce, and thicken it
with aspic as for a chaud-froid sauce.
Cut the fillets into slices, coat them with Salmis sauce, and leave
this to set. Let a thickness of sauce set on the bottom of a timbale.
Upon this sauce lay some of the coated slices, alternating them with
slices of truffle, and cover with a thin layer of aspic jelly. Lay
another row of slices of fillet and of truffles, followed as before by
a layer of aspic, and continue thus in the same order. Complete with
a somewhat thick layer of aspic, and keep in the cool until ready for
serving.
N.B.—This old and excellent cold entrée is really only a cold salmis.
The procedure may be applied to all game suited to the salmis method of
preparation. It is the simplest and certainly the best way of serving
them cold.
1774—PINTADES (GUINEA FOWL)
The guinea-fowl is not equal to the pheasant from the gastronomical
standpoint, though it often takes the place of the latter among the
roasts after the shooting season. But, though it has neither the fine
flavour nor the delicate meat of the pheasant, it does good service
notwithstanding. The majority of pheasant recipes may be applied to it,
especially à la Bohémienne, à la crème, en Chartreuse, en salmis, à la
choucroûte, &c.
1775—PIGEONS AND SQUABS (PIGEONS ET PIGEONNEAUX)
Young pigeons are not very highly esteemed by English gourmets, and
this is more particularly to be regretted, since, when the birds are of
excellent quality, they are worthy the best tables.
1776—PIGEONNEAUX A LA BORDELAIS
Open the squabs down the back; season them; slightly flatten them,
and toss them in butter. They may just as well be halved as left
whole. Dish, and surround with the garnish given under “Poulet à la
Bordelaise” (No. 1538).
1777—PIGEONNEAUX EN CASSEROLE A LA PAYSANNE
Cook the squabs in the oven in an earthenware saucepan.
When they are two-thirds done, surround them with one and one-half oz.
of salted breast of pork, cut into small dice and _blanched_, and
two oz. of sliced and _sautéd_ potatoes for each pigeon. Complete the
cooking of the whole gently, and, when about to serve, add a little
good gravy.
1778—PIGEONNEAUX EN CHARTREUSE
Prepare the _Chartreuse_ in a Charlotte mould, as explained under
No. 1182. Line the bottom and sides with a layer of braised, drained,
and pressed cabbages; in the centre set the squabs, cooked “_à la
casserole_” and cut into two lengthwise, and alternate them with small
rectangles of _blanched_, salted breast of pork, and sausage roundels.
Cover with cabbages, and steam in a _bain-marie_ for thirty minutes.
Let the _Chartreuse_ stand for five minutes after withdrawing from
the _bain-marie_; turn out on a round dish, and surround with a few
tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.
1779—PIGEONNEAUX EN CRAPAUDINE
Cut the young pigeons horizontally in two, from the apex of the breast
to the wings. Open them; flatten them slightly; season them; dip them
in melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.
Serve a devilled sauce at the same time.
1780—PIGEONNEAUX EN COMPOTE
Fry in butter two oz. of _blanched_, salted breast of pork and two oz.
of raw mushrooms, peeled and quartered. Drain the bacon and the
mushrooms, and set the squabs, trussed as for an entrée, to fry in the
same butter.
Withdraw them when they are brown; drain them of butter; swill with
half a glassful of white wine; reduce the latter, and add sufficient
brown stock and half-glaze sauce (_tomatéd_), in equal quantities, to
cover the birds. Plunge them into this sauce, with a faggot, and simmer
until they are cooked and the sauce is reduced to half.
This done, transfer the squabs to another saucepan; add the pieces of
bacon, the mushrooms, and six small onions, glazed with butter, for
each bird; strain the sauce over the whole through a fine sieve; simmer
for ten minutes more, and serve very hot.
1781—PIGEON PIE
Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with very thin, flattened
collops of lean beef, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with
chopped shallots.
Set the quartered pigeons inside the dish, and separate them with a
halved hard-boiled egg-yolk for each pigeon. Moisten half-way up with
good gravy; cover with a layer of puff paste; _gild_; streak; make a
slit in the top, and bake for about one and one-half hours in a good,
moderate oven.
1782—VOL AU VENT DE PIGEONNEAUX
Suppress the feet and the pinions; _poële_ the squabs, and only just
cook them.
Cut each bird into four, and mix them with a garnish “à la Financière”
(No. 1474) combined with the _poëling_-liquor. Pour the whole into a
vol-au-vent crust, and dish on a napkin.
1783—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA NESLES
Cut them in two, and reserve the claw, which serves as the bone of the
cutlet. Flatten them slightly; season, and fry them in butter on one
side only. Cool them under slight pressure; coat their fried side,
dome-fashion, with some godiveau with cream, combined with a third of
its bulk of _gratin_ forcemeat and chopped truffles. Set them on a
tray, and place in a moderate oven to complete the cooking, and poach
the forcemeat. Dish in a circle, and separate the cutlets with collops
of veal sweetbreads, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-crumbs,
and tossed in butter. Garnish their midst with mushrooms and sliced
fowls’ livers, tossed in butter and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls
of Madeira sauce.
1784—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX EN PAPILLOTES
Cut the pigeons in two, as above; stiffen them in butter, and enclose
them in _papillotes_ as explained under “Côtelettes de Veau en
Papillotes” (No. 1259).
1785—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SÉVIGNÉ
_Sauté_ the half-pigeons in butter, and leave them to cool under slight
pressure. Garnish their cut sides dome-fashion with a _salpicon_ of
white chicken-meat, mushrooms, and truffles, the whole cohered by means
of a cold Allemande sauce.
Dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them gently
in clarified butter.
Dish them in a circle; garnish their midst with asparagus-heads cohered
with butter, and serve a light, Madeira sauce separately.
1786—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA DIPLOMATE
Raise the fillets and slightly flatten them; stiffen them in butter,
and leave them to cool under slight pressure. This done, dip them in
a Villeroy sauce, combined with chopped herbs and mushrooms, and cool
them. Dip each fillet in beaten egg; roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry
just before serving.
Dish in a circle, and in their midst set a heap of fried parsley.
Send separately a garnish of pigeon quenelles, mushrooms, and small,
olive-shaped truffles, to which a half-glaze sauce flavoured with
pigeon essence has been added.
1787—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SAINT-CLAIR
With the meat of the legs prepare a _mousseline_ forcemeat, and, with
the latter, make some quenelles the size of small olives, and set them
to poach. _Poële_ the breasts, without colouration, on a thick litter
of sliced onions, and keep them underdone. Add a little velouté to the
onions; rub them through tammy, and put the quenelles in this sauce.
In the middle of a shallow _croustade_, set a pyramid of _cèpes_ tossed
in butter. Raise the fillets; skin them, and set them on the _cèpes_;
coat them with the prepared sauce; surround with a thread of meat
glaze, and place the quenelles all round.
1788—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA MARIGNY
Cut off the legs, and, with their meat, prepare a forcemeat. Poach the
latter on a tray, and stamp it out with an oval cutter into pieces the
size of the _suprêmes_.
Cover the breasts with slices of bacon, and _poële_ them, taking care
to only just cook them.
Quickly raise the _suprêmes_, skin them, and set each upon an oval of
forcemeat, sticking them on by means of a little _gratin_ forcemeat.
Put the _suprêmes_ in the oven for a moment, that this forcemeat may
poach. Dish the _suprêmes_ round a pyramid consisting of a smooth
purée of peas, and coat with a velouté sauce, finished with an essence
prepared from the remains and the _poëling_-liquor of the breasts.
1789—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX AUX TRUFFES
Raise the _suprêmes_, flatten them slightly; toss them in clarified
butter, and set them on a border of smooth forcemeat, laid on a dish by
means of a piping-bag, and poached in the front of the oven.
Swill the vegetable-pan with Madeira; add four fine slices of truffle
for each _suprême_, and a little pale melted meat glaze, and finish
with a moderate amount of butter.
Coat the _suprêmes_ with this sauce, and set the slices of truffle upon
it.
1790—MOUSSELINES DE PIGEONNEAUX A L’EPICURIENNE
Prepare and poach these _mousselines_ like the chicken ones, but make
them a little smaller. Dish them in the form of a crown; set thereon a
young pigeon’s fillet roasted, and in their midst arrange a garnish of
peas with lettuce. Coat with a _fumet_ prepared from the carcasses and
cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of velouté.
N.B.—Pigeons and squabs may also be prepared after the recipes given
for chicks.
=Relevés and Entrées=
GAME
VENISON AND GROUND GAME
The stag (Fr. Cerf) and the fallow deer (Fr. Daim) supply the only
venison that is consumed in England, where the roebuck (Fr. Chevreuil)
is not held in very high esteem. True, the latter’s flesh is very often
mediocre in quality, and saddles and legs of roebuck often have to be
imported from the Continent when they are to appear on an important
menu.
On the other hand, venison derived from the stag or red deer and the
fallow deer proper is generally of superior quality. The former has
perhaps more flavour, but the latter, which is supplied by animals bred
in herds on large private estates, has no equal as far as delicacy and
tenderness are concerned, while it is covered with white and scented
fat, which is greatly appreciated by English connoisseurs.
Although these two kinds of venison are generally served as relevés,
they belong more properly to the roasts, and I shall give their recipes
a little later on. In any case, only half of the hind-quarters (that
is to say, the leg together with that part of the saddle which reaches
from it to the floating ribs) is served at high-class tables.
I shall now, therefore, only give the various recipes dealing with
roebuck, it being understood that these, if desired, may be applied to
corresponding joints of the stag or deer.
1791—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL ET CUISSOT
Saddles and legs of roebuck may be prepared after the same recipes,
and allow of the same garnishes. The recipes for saddle which I give
hereafter may therefore be applied equally well to legs.
Whichever joint be selected, it must first be cleared of all tendons
and then larded with larding bacon. The last operation is no more
essential than is the _marinading_ which in France has become customary
with such pieces. It might even be said with justice that _marinading_
is not only useless, but harmful, more particularly in the case of
young animals whose meat has been well hung.
Unlike many other specimens of game, roebuck has to be eaten fresh; it
does not suit it to be in the least tainted. I should like to point out
here that game shot in ambush is best, owing to the fact that animals
killed after a chase decompose very quickly, and thereby lose a large
proportion of their flavour.
The saddle of the roebuck generally consists of the whole of the
latter’s back, from the withers to the tail, in which case the bones
of the ribs are cut very short, that the joint may lie steady at all
points.
At the croup-end, cut the joint on either side diagonally, from the
point of the haunch to the root of the tail. Sometimes, however, the
saddle only consists of the lumbar portion of the back, and, in this
case, the ribs are cut up to be cooked as cutlets.
1792—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A L’ALLEMANDE
_Marinade_ the saddle for two or three days in raw _marinade_ No. 169,
and roast it, on a narrow baking-tray, upon the vegetables of the
_marinade_.
As soon as the joint is cooked, withdraw it; swill the tray with a
little _marinade_, and almost entirely reduce. Clear of grease; add
two-thirds pint of cream and one powdered juniper berry; reduce by a
third; complete with a few drops of melted glaze, and rub through tammy.
Serve this sauce at the same time as the saddle, which set on a long
dish.
1793—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA BADEN-BADEN
The saddle should be _marinaded_ and well dried before being set to
cook.
_Poële_ it on the vegetables of the _marinade_.
When it is cooked, put it on a long dish, and, at either end of it, set
a garnish of stewed pears, unsugared, but flavoured with cinnamon and
lemon-rind. Pour one-third pint of game stock into the tray in which
the joint was cooked; cook for ten minutes; strain; clear of grease,
and thicken with arrowroot.
Serve this thickened stock separately, and send some red-currant jelly
to the table at the same time.
1794—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AUX CERISES
Keep the saddle for twelve hours in _marinade_ (No. 169) made from
verjuice instead of vinegar. Roast it on the spit, basting it with the
_marinade_, and keep it slightly underdone.
At the same time, serve a cherry sauce consisting of equal quantities
of poivrade sauce and red-currant jelly, to each pint of which add
three oz. of semi-candied cherries, set to soak in hot water thirty
minutes beforehand.
N.B.—This saddle need not be _marinaded_ if it be desired plain.
1795—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA CUMBERLAND
Roast it like a haunch of venison, without _marinading_ it. Send it
to the table with a timbale of French beans, cohered with butter, and
serve a Cumberland sauce (No. 134) separately.
1796—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA CRÉOLE
_Marinade_ it for a few hours only, and roast it on the spit, basting
it the while with the _marinade_.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with bananas tossed in butter.
At the same time serve a Roberts sauce, combined with a third of its
bulk of Poivrade sauce, and one oz. of fresh butter per pint.
1797—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA BEAUJEU
Lard and roast it. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with
artichoke-bottoms, garnished with lentil purée, and alternated with
chestnuts cooked in a small quantity of consommé and glazed.
Serve a venison sauce separately.
1798—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AU GENIÈVRE
Lard the saddle, and roast it. Swill the baking-tray with a small
glassful of burned gin; add one powdered juniper berry and one-sixth
pint of double cream. Reduce the cream to half; complete with a few
tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce and a few drops of lemon juice. Serve
this sauce with the saddle, and send separately some hot stewed apples,
very slightly sugared.
1799—SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AVEC SAUCES DIVERSES
Saddle of roebuck may also be served with the following
sauces:—Poivrade, Venison, Grand-Veneur, Moscovite, Roberts, &c. The
selected accompaniment determines the title of the dish.
1800—NOISETTES ET CÔTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL
The same recipes may be applied to both. Trim them after the manner of
lamb noisettes or cutlets. They may be moderately _marinaded_, but they
may also be used fresh. In the latter case, fry them in butter over a
somewhat fierce fire, like the lamb noisettes.
If they have been _marinaded_, it is better to toss them very quickly
in very hot oil, and then to dry them before dishing them.
It is in the dishing only that the noisettes and the cutlets differ;
for, whereas the latter are always dished in a crown, one overlapping
the other, or each separated from the rest by _croûtons_ of bread-crumb
fried in butter, the noisettes are always dished in a circle on small,
oval _croûtons_ fried in butter, or on tartlet crusts containing some
kind of garnish.
1801—CÔTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL CONTI
_Sauté_ the cutlets in very hot oil; dry them; dish them in a crown,
and separate them by similarly-shaped collops of salted tongue.
Swill the saucepan with a little white wine; add this liquor to a
Poivrade sauce, and coat the cutlets with it.
Serve a light, buttered purée of lentils at the same time.
1802—CÔTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL DIANE
Spread an even layer, one-third inch thick, of _mousseline_ game
forcemeat on a tray. Poach this forcemeat in a steamer or in a very
moderate oven, and cut it into triangles equal in size to the cutlets.
Toss the latter as already explained; dish them in a crown, and
separate them by _croûtons_ of forcemeat already prepared.
Coat the whole with poivrade sauce, thinned by means of a little beaten
cream, and garnished with crescents of truffle and hard-boiled white of
egg, and serve a purée of chestnuts at the same time.
1803—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL AU GENIÈVRE
Cook the noisettes in smoking oil. Dry them, dish them, and coat them
with the same sauce as that given under “Selle au Genièvre” (No. 1798).
Serve some stewed apples at the same time.
1804—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL ROMANOFF
Cook the noisettes; set them on stuffed sections of cucumber, prepared
after No. 2124a, and place a slice of truffle on each noisette. Coat
with a Poivrade sauce with cream, and serve a mushroom purée separately.
1805—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VALENCIA
Cook the noisettes, and dish them in a circle, each on a round
_croûton_ of brioche fried in butter, and coat lightly with bigarrade
sauce.
Serve a sauceboat of bigarrade sauce and an orange salad at the same
time.
1806—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VILLENEUVE
Carefully clear the meat of the roebuck of all tendons, and chop it up
with a knife, combining with it the while the third of its weight of
fresh butter, as much bread-crumb, soaked in milk, and pressed, and
one-third pint of fresh cream per lb. of meat. Season, divide into
portions weighing two oz., mould to a nice round shape, wrap in pig’s
caul, cook quickly at the last moment, and dish in the form of a crown.
Coat with Chasseur sauce, and send a timbale of celery purée separately.
1807—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL WALKYRIE
_Sauté_ the noisettes in the usual way, and dish them in the form of
a crown, each on a small quoit of “Pommes Berny” (No. 2184). On each
noisette lay a fine, grilled mushroom, garnished with a rosette of
Soubise purée, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved
pipe. Pour a little venison sauce over the dish, and send a sauceboat
of it separately.
N.B.—Roebuck noisettes and cutlets are still served with purées of
chestnuts or celery, with truffles, _cèpes_, mushrooms, &c.
The sauces best suited to them are Poivrade sauce and its derivatives,
such as Venison sauce, Grand-Veneur sauce, Romaine sauce, &c., also
Roberts sauce Escoffier.
1808—CIVET DE CHEVREUIL
For “Civet de Chevreuil” the shoulders, the neck, and the breast are
used, and these pieces are cut up and set to _marinade_ six hours
beforehand with the aromatics and the same red wine as that with which
the civet will be moistened.
When about to prepare the civet, drain and dry these pieces, and
proceed exactly as for “Civet de Lièvre” (No. 1821), except for the
thickening by means of blood, which the difficulty of obtaining the
blood of the roebuck perforce precludes.
This civet, which should be classed among dishes for the home, is
usually served in the form of a stew; for, inasmuch as the final
thickening with blood is lacking, it can only be an imitation of the
civet. When, therefore, hare’s blood is available, it should always be
used in finishing this dish exactly after the manner of No. 1821—that
is to say, the preparation should be given the characteristic stamp of
civet by means of a final thickening with blood.
1809—BOAR AND YOUNG BOAR (SANGLIER ET MARCASSIN)
When the wild boar is over two years of age, it is no more fit to
be served as food. Between one and two years it should be used with
caution, and the various roebuck recipes may then be applied to it. But
only the young boar less than twelve months old should be prepared in
decent kitchens.
The hams of a young boar, salted and smoked, supply a very passable
relevé, which allows of varying the ordinary menu. They are treated
exactly like pork hams.
The saddle and the cushions may be prepared after the recipes given for
saddle of roebuck, and the same holds good with the cutlets and the
noisettes.
Finally, the saddle may be served cold, in a daube, when it is prepared
after No. 1173.
As the various parts of the young boar are covered with fat, it is
understood that they are not larded, nor do they need it.
1810—HARE AND LEVERET (LIÈVRE ET LEVRAUT)
As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have already
pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so highly esteemed as
it deserves in England; and the fact seems all the more strange when
one remembers that in many of her counties excellent specimens of the
species are to be found.
Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always select a
young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may be ascertained as
follows:—Grasp one ear close to its extremity with both hands, and pull
in opposite directions; if the ear tear, the beast is young; if it
resist the strain, the hare is old, and should be set aside for soups
and the preparation of _fumets_ and forcemeats.
1811—LIÈVRE FARCI A LA PERIGOURDINE
Take care to collect all the blood when emptying the hare; break the
bones of the legs, that they may be easily trussed; clear the legs
and the fillets of all tendons, and lard them. Chop up the liver, the
lungs, the heart, and four fowls’ livers, together with five oz. of fat
bacon.
Add to this mincemeat five oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, the
blood, two oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter and cold; a pinch
of chopped parsley, a piece of crushed garlic the size of a pea, and
three oz. of raw truffle parings. Mix the whole up well; fill the hare
with this stuffing; sew up the skin of the belly; truss the animal,
and braise it in white wine for about two and one-half hours, basting
it often the while. Glaze at the last moment. Serve the hare on a long
dish.
Add two-thirds pint of half-glaze game sauce to the braising-liquor;
reduce; clear of grease; strain, and add three oz. of chopped truffles
to this sauce.
Pour a little sauce over the dish on which the hare has been set, and
serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1812—RÂBLE DE LIÈVRE
The French term “râble” means the whole of the back of the hare, from
the root of the neck to the tail, with the ribs cut very short.
Often, however, that piece which corresponds with the saddle in
butchers’ meat alone is taken, _i.e._, the piece reaching from the
croup to the floating ribs. Whatever be the particular cut, the piece
should be well cleared of all tendons, and finely larded before being
set to _marinade_; and this last operation may even be dispensed with
when the “râble” is derived from a young hare.
_Marinading_ would only become necessary if the piece had to be kept
some considerable time.
1813—RÂBLE DE LIÈVRE A L’ALLEMANDE
Set the _râble_ well dried on the vegetables of the _marinade_, which
should be laid on the bottom of a long, narrow dish. When it is nearly
cooked, remove the vegetables, pour one-quarter pint of cream into the
dish, and complete the cooking of the _râble_, basting it the while
with that cream.
Finish at the last minute with a few drops of lemon juice.
Dish the _râble_, and surround it with the cream stock, strained
through a fine strainer.
1814—RÂBLE DE LIÈVRE AU GENIÈVRE
Roast it, as above, on the vegetables of the _marinade_.
Swill the dish with a small glassful of gin and two or three
tablespoonfuls of _marinade_, and reduce to half. Add one-sixth pint of
cream, two tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and four powdered juniper
berries.
Strain and serve this sauce separately at the same time as the _râble_.
1815—CUISSES DE LIÈVRE
Use the legs of young hares only; those of old animals may be used for
the “civet” and forcemeat alone. After having cleared them of tendons
and larded them with very thin strips of bacon, treat them like the
_râble_.
1816—FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA DAMPIERRE
Take five leverets’ fillets; _contise_ them with slices of truffle,
after the manner directed for “Suprêmes de Volaille à la Chevalière”
(No. 1458); shape them like crescents, and set them on a buttered dish.
Lard the minion fillets with a rosette consisting of strips of salted
tongue, and set them also on a buttered dish.
With what remains of the meat of the leverets, prepare a _mousseline_
forcemeat, and add thereto some truffle essence and some chopped
truffles.
Dish this forcemeat, shaping it like a truncated cone two and one-half
inches high, the radius of which should be the length of a leveret’s
fillet.
Set this forcemeat to poach in the front of the oven.
Sprinkle the fillets and the minion fillets with a little brandy and
melted butter; cover them, and poach them likewise in the front of
the oven. This done, arrange them radially on the cone of forcemeat,
alternating the fillets and the minion fillets. Place a fine, glazed
truffle in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base with
mushrooms, separated by chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed, and
small onions cooked in butter.
Serve a poivrade sauce at the same time, combined with the fillets’
cooking-liquor.
1817—FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA MORNAY (Recipe of the Frères Provençaux)
Trim two leverets’ fillets, and cut them into collops, one inch in
diameter and one-third inch thick. Prepare (1) the same number of
bread-crumb _croûtons_ as there are collops, and make them of the same
size as the latter, though half as thick; (2) the same number of thick
slices of truffle, cooked at the last minute in a little Madeira.
Toss the collops of fillet quickly in clarified butter; colour the
_croûtons_ in butter at the same time, and mix the latter with the
collops and the truffles in a saucepan.
Swill the sautépan with the Madeira in which the truffles have cooked;
add a little succulent pale glaze; reduce sufficiently; strain the
sauce through a sieve; finish it liberally with butter; add it to the
_sautéd_ collops, and serve the latter in a very hot timbale.
N.B.—This recipe was given by the Comte de Mornay himself to the
proprietors of the famous Parisian restaurant, and for a long while the
dish was one of the specialities of a house no longer extant.
1818—FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA VENDOME
After having _contised_ the leveret’s fillets, roll them round a
buttered tin mould, and fasten them with a string, that they may form
rings.
Set to poach. Meanwhile, spread on a buttered tray a layer one-half
inch thick of game forcemeat; poach the latter; stamp it out by means
of an even cutter into roundels of the same size as the rings, and set
one of these on each of the forcemeat roundels, fixing it by means of a
little raw forcemeat.
Cut the minion fillets into collops, and quickly toss them in butter
with an equal quantity of mushrooms and five oz. of raw, sliced
truffles.
Swill the saucepan with a little brandy and the poaching-liquor of
the fillet-rings; add a little poivrade sauce; finish this sauce with
butter, and plunge therein the collops of fillet, the mushrooms, and
the truffles.
Set the rings in a circle on a dish, and fill them with this garnish.
Serve separately a sauceboat of poivrade sauce and a timbale of
chestnut purée.
1819—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE LIÈVRE
Proceed exactly as for all other _mousses_ and _mousselines_, except,
of course, in regard to the basic ingredient, which in this case is the
meat of a hare.
1820—SOUFFLÉ DE LIÈVRE
With one lb. of the meat of a hare, prepare a light _mousseline_
forcemeat; add thereto the whites of two eggs, whisked to a stiff
froth; poach the _mousseline_ in a _soufflé_ saucepan.
Cut the hare’s minion fillets into collops, and toss them in butter at
the last moment.
Cook the soufflé in a moderate oven; coat the top lightly with
half-glaze sauce flavoured with hare _fumet_, and surround it with the
minion-fillet collops, alternated with slices of truffles.
The minion-fillet collops and the slices of truffles may be added to
the sauce, and this garnish is served separately in another timbale.
1821—CIVET DE LIÈVRE
Skin and clean the hare, taking care to collect all the blood in so
doing. Put the liver aside, after having carefully freed it from the
gall-bladder, as also from those portions touching the latter.
Cut up the hare, and put the pieces in a basin with a few
tablespoonfuls of brandy and an equal quantity of olive oil, salt,
pepper, and an onion cut into thin roundels. Cover and leave to
_marinade_ for a few hours in the very red wine used for the
moistening. Fry one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into large dice, in
butter, and drain it as soon as it is brown. In the same butter brown
two fair-sized, quartered onions; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and
cook this roux gently until it acquires a golden tinge. Put the pieces
of hare into this roux, after having well dried them, and stiffen them.
Moisten with the wine used for the _marinade_. Add a large faggot, in
which place a garlic clove; cover, and leave to cook gently on the side
of the stove.
A few minutes before serving, thicken the civet with the reserved
blood, which should be gradually heated, and mix therewith a few
tablespoonfuls of sauce. Then transfer the pieces of hare, one by one,
to another saucepan with the fried pieces of bacon, twenty small,
glazed onions, and twenty cooked mushrooms.
Strain the sauce over the whole through a strainer.
Dish in a warm timbale, and surround with heart-shaped _croûtons_ fried
in butter at the last moment.
=Cold Preparations of Hare=
1822—LIÈVRE EN DAUBE
Take a fresh hare, and bone it from the back without emptying it, that
the skin of the belly may be untouched.
Detach the shoulders and the legs; do not touch the head; season with
salt and pepper; sprinkle with a few drops of brandy, and leave to
_marinade_. With the hare’s liver, some fat bacon, and some truffle
parings, prepare a _gratin_ forcemeat. Prepare another forcemeat with
the meat of the shoulders and the legs, an equal weight of fat bacon,
one egg, a pinch of wild thyme, salt, pepper, spices, and the brandy of
the _marinade_. Rub this forcemeat through a sieve, and add to it the
_gratin_ forcemeat, one-half lb. of fat bacon, and five oz. of truffles
cut into dice.
Fill the boned hare with this preparation; sew it up, and tie the head
to the back in such wise as to give the piece the appearance of the
animal at rest.
Wrap it in slices of bacon, and set it in a _terrine_ lined with the
latter; sprinkle with a glassful of brandy, and place in the oven for
thirty minutes with lid off.
Then pour into the _terrine_ a _fumet_ prepared with red wine from the
hare’s bones; cover, and then cook in the oven gently for three hours.
Leave to half-cool; drain away the cooking-liquor, and carefully remove
the slices of bacon. Strain the cooking-liquor through muslin; return
it to the _terrine_, and fill up the latter with savoury jelly.
Keep in the cool for two hours before serving.
1823—PAIN DE LIÈVRE
This “Pain” is prepared according to No. 1689, and it may be served in
“Belle-vue,” after the manner described for cold pieces prepared in
this way.
1824—PÂTÉ DE LIÈVRE
Clear the fillets, the minion fillets, and the legs of all tendons;
moderately lard them; season them; set them in a dish with an equal
quantity of truffles and fat bacon strips; sprinkle with some brandy,
and leave to _marinade_ for one hour. With what remains of the meat,
some fillets of veal and pork, in the proportion of six oz. per lb.
of hare; fresh, fat bacon in the proportion of one and one-half lbs.
per lb. of hare; and spiced salt, prepare a forcemeat, and finish it
with one egg and three tablespoonfuls of brandy per lb. of forcemeat.
Rub through tammy, and add a portion of the hare’s blood.
Line a round or oval buttered mould with raised-pie paste, and
completely cover the paste with slices of bacon. Then coat inside with
forcemeat, and fill up the mould with alternate layers of forcemeat,
hares’ fillets, truffle, and fat bacon strips.
Finish with a layer of forcemeat; cover with a slice of bacon; sprinkle
a pinch of powdered thyme and bay over the latter; close the pie with a
layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the moistened edges;
pinch the crest inside and out, and finish off the pie by means of
imitation leaves made from paste.
_Gild_; bake in a moderate oven, and, when the pie is almost cold, pour
some jelly flavoured with hare _fumet_ into it.
1825—TERRINE DE LIÈVRE
A “Terrine” or Patty is only a pie without a crust, and it allows of
the same forcemeat and of the same garnish of bacon strips as the
latter. The _terrine_ should first be lined with slices of bacon,
whereupon it is garnished like the pie with alternate layers of
forcemeat, bacon strips, hares’ fillets, and truffles.
Cover with a slice of bacon; sprinkle the centre of the latter with a
little powdered thyme and bay, and a little spice. Put the lid on the
_terrine_, place it in a saucepan containing a little water, and set it
to cook in the oven.
The time allowed for cooking is naturally subject to the size of the
_terrine_. It is known to be quite cooked when the grease which rises
to the surface is quite clear.
As long as this grease is turbid, raw juices are still issuing from
the forcemeat and the garnish inside. Another method of telling is
by the insertion of a needle. If the latter withdraws evenly heated
throughout its length, the _terrine_ is cooked.
If the patty is to be served immediately, add some aspic to it when it
is just tepid, and set it to cool under slight pressure. When quite
cold, clear it of grease; trim its surface, and cut it up in the
utensil.
If it is to be served whole and presented, set it to cool under greater
pressure; turn it out, and trim it all round. This done, cause a layer
of jelly to set on the bottom of the _terrine_; return the trimmed
patty to the latter, and surround it with melted aspic jelly.
When about to serve, turn it out after the manner of an aspic; set it
on a long dish, and border the latter with jelly _croûtons_.
If it have to be kept some time, proceed as above, but use lard instead
of aspic, and keep it well covered and in the cool.
1826—YOUNG WILD RABBIT (LAPEREAUX)
Use the wild rather than the tame young rabbit, and test its age after
the manner described in regard to the hare, and also by means of a
little lentil-shaped bone, which is to be found in the region of the
patella.
As the wild rabbit ages, this bone shrinks and finally combines with
the other bones of the articulation.
When the wild rabbit is old, it is tough, and can only be used for
stock or forcemeats.
All the recipes given for “Poulet Sauté,” and those given for hare, may
be applied to wild rabbit; the reader is, therefore, begged to refer to
these.
1827—FEATHERED GAME
Feathered game comprises all esculent birds that live in freedom.
The number of species involved, therefore, is considerable, but from
the culinary standpoint they may be grouped into ten principal classes,
which are:—
1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras
Californias.
2. The hazel-hen, grouse, prairie fowls, ganga, sand-grouse.
3. The various wild ducks and teals.
4. The woodcocks and snipes.
5. The various plovers, lapwings, sandpipers, water-rails, water-hens.
6. The quails, land-rails, Virginia quails.
7. The various thrushes, Corsican blackbirds.
8. The various larks.
9. The warblers.
10. The ortolans.
The birds of Classes 1 and 4 are better high—that is to say, they
should be hung for a few days, before being plucked, in a moderate
draught, that they may begin to decompose, and that the particular
flavour of their flesh may be accentuated, a process which increases
their culinary value. Whatever opinion may be held in regard to the
gaminess of these birds, one thing is quite certain—namely, that
the meat of a fresh pheasant and that of a high one are two totally
different things. When fresh, the meat is flavourless, whereas when it
is reasonably high it is tender, full of taste, and of an incomparable
flavour.
Formerly, it was the custom to lard the birds of Class 1, especially
when they were to be roasted. But this practice should be resolutely
discarded, for, if the bird be young, it can only impair the latter’s
flavour, and, if it be old, it cannot possibly restore those qualities
to it which it has already lost.
Besides, an old bird should never be served; it ought only to be used
in the preparation of game stock or forcemeats.
The birds belonging to the remaining classes are prepared fresh; or, if
it be thought necessary to let them hang for a few days, at least they
should not be allowed to get high, more particularly the aquatic ones,
because gaminess is, if anything, deleterious to the flavour of their
flesh.
1828—PHEASANT (FAISAN)
When this bird is young, its legs are grey and the ventral end of the
sternum is tender and flexible. But with pheasants, as with partridges,
an infallible sign of youth may be discovered at the extremity of the
last large feather in the wing. If this feather be pointed, the bird is
young; if it be round, the reverse is the case.
1829—FAISAN A LA MODE D’ALCANTARA
This recipe comes from the famous Alcantara convent. History tells us
that at the beginning of the Portuguese campaign in 1807 the convent’s
library was pillaged by Junot’s soldiers, and its precious manuscripts
were used in the making of cartridges.
Now it happened that an officer of the commissariat who was witnessing
the event found, among a collection of recipes selected by the monks,
the particular one now under our notice, which was applied only to
partridges.
It struck him as interesting, and after trying it when he returned
to France in the following year, he surrendered it to the Duchess of
Abrantès, who noted it in her memoirs.
It represents, perhaps, the only good thing the French derived from
that unfortunate campaign, and it would tend to prove that foie gras
and truffles, which had been known for so long in Languedoc and
Gascony, were also known in Estremadura, where, even at the present
day, tolerably good truffles are to be found.
The procedure is as follows:—
Empty the pheasant from the front; bone its breast, and stuff it with
fine ducks’ foies gras, mixed with quartered truffles, cooked in port
wine.
_Marinade_ the pheasant for three days in port wine, taking care that
it be well covered therewith. This done, cook it “_en casserole_” (the
original recipe says on the spit, but the saucepan is more suitable).
Reduce the port wine of the _marinade_; add to it a dozen medium-sized
truffles; set the pheasant on these truffles, and heat for a further
ten minutes.
N.B.—This last part of the recipe may be advantageously replaced by the
“à la Souvaroff” treatment—that is to say, having placed the pheasant
and the truffles in a _terrine_, sprinkle them with the reduced port
combined with slightly buttered game glaze; then hermetically seal down
the lid of the _terrine_, and complete the cooking in the oven.
1830—FAISAN A L’ANGOUMOISE
Stuff the pheasant with a preparation consisting of two-thirds lb. of
very fresh pork fat, rubbed through a sieve; four oz. of raw, peeled,
and quartered truffles, and four oz. of fine chestnuts, cooked in
consommé.
This preparation, which should be seasoned as for the ordinary
truffling (No. 1956), ought to be quite cold when inserted into the
pheasant.
Wrap the bird in slices of bacon; roast it gently for three-quarters
of an hour, and take care to remove the slices of bacon seven or eight
minutes before the cooking is completed, that the outside of the piece
may be coloured.
Set on a long dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.
1831—FAISAN A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Season a small foie gras with salt and paprika; stud it with raw
quartered truffles, and poach it in Madeira for twenty minutes.
When it is cold, insert it into the pheasant, which should be high.
Truss the bird, and cook it in butter in a saucepan or a _cocotte_ for
forty-five minutes. When about to serve, remove some of the butter used
in cooking; sprinkle the pheasant with a glassful of burnt brandy, and
add a few tablespoonfuls of reduced game gravy to the cooking-liquor.
Serve the pheasant in its cooking utensil.
1832—FAISAN EN CASSEROLE
Truss the pheasant as for an entrée, and _poële_ it in butter only.
This done, swill the saucepan with a few drops of brandy and a
tablespoonful of game gravy.
Cover the utensil, and serve the dish burning hot.
1833—FAISAN EN COCOTTE
Proceed exactly as for pheasant “_en casserole_,” and, when the cooking
is two-thirds done, surround it with a garnish of small onions cooked
in butter; small, cooked mushroom-heads and olive-shaped truffles,
the latter taking the place of the potatoes, which are one of the
garnishing ingredients of fowls “_en cocotte_.”
1834—FAISAN EN CHARTREUSE
Parboil a fine, round-headed, quartered cabbage, and braise it as
directed under No. 2100, adding thereto an old, oven-browned pheasant.
The _chartreuse_ may be made with the pheasant kept whole or cut into
pieces, but in any case, roasted or _poëled_, it should be very tender
and only just cooked. The old pheasant put in with the cabbage only
serves in imparting its flavour to the latter, but it must not and
cannot be used for the _chartreuse_.
If the _chartreuse_ be made with a cut-up pheasant, proceed as in the
case of No. 1778. If whole, line an oval mould _chartreuse_-fashion;
coat the inside with a portion of the braised cabbage, which should be
slightly pressed; set the pheasant, breast undermost, in the mould;
cover it with what remains of the cabbage, and then turn it out on a
dish.
Send a sauceboat of excellent half-glaze, flavoured with pheasant
_fumet_, separately.
1835—FAISAN A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Prepare the sauerkraut after No. 2097, and bear in mind that when it is
specially prepared to accompany a pheasant, it is considerably improved
by being braised with foie-gras fat.
_Poële_ a very tender pheasant, and only just cook it. Lay the
well-drained sauerkraut on a long dish; set the pheasant upon it, and
surround it with a border consisting of rectangles of bacon, cooked in
the sauerkraut.
Serve separately the _poëling_-liquor combined with a little game
_fumet_, strained, and kept somewhat greasy.
1836—FAISAN A LA CRÈME
Cook the pheasant in butter, in a saucepan, with a medium-sized,
quartered onion. When the cooking is three-parts done, sprinkle the
bird with one-quarter pint of cream (sour if possible), or with
ordinary cream, acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice.
Finish the cooking, basting the piece the while with cream and serve
in the saucepan.
1837—FAISAN DEMIDOFF
Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet à la Demidoff” (No. 1464).
1838—FAISAN A LA GEORGIENNE
Truss the pheasant as for an entrée, and put it into a saucepan with
thirty fresh, halved, and well-peeled walnuts; the juice of two lbs.
of grapes and of four oranges, pressed on a sieve; a wineglassful of
Malmsey wine; a glassful of strong, green tea; one and one-half oz. of
butter, and the necessary seasoning.
Poach the pheasant in this preparation for about thirty minutes, and
colour it when it is almost cooked.
When about to serve, dish it and surround it with fresh walnuts.
Strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; add thereto one-third pint
of game Espagnole, and reduce to half.
Slightly coat the pheasant and its garnish with the sauce, and serve
what remains of the latter separately.
1839—FAISAN GRILLÉ DIABLE
For this preparation only young pheasants are used; although, provided
they be tender, adult pheasants will answer the purpose. The procedure
is precisely the same as that described under “Poulet Grillé”
(No. 1636).
1840—FAISAN KOTSCHOUBEY
Cook the pheasant “_en casserole_,” and add to it, when it is almost
done, two oz. of fine, raw truffle slices, and a little excellent game
glaze, clear and well buttered.
Serve the following garnish separately:—Fry in butter four oz. of
_blanched_, fresh breast of bacon, cut into dice. When the pieces are
properly frizzled, add to them one lb. of freshly-cooked, well-drained,
uncooled, and roughly-chopped Brussels sprouts. Add two oz. of fresh
butter, a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and stew gently for one-half
hour, that the garnish may just be ready in time for dishing.
1841—FAISAN A LA NORMANDE
Colour the pheasant in butter.
Meanwhile quarter, peel, mince, and slightly toss in butter six
medium-sized apples.
Garnish the bottom of a _terrine_ with a layer of these apples; set
the browned pheasant thereon; surround it with what remains of the
apples; sprinkle it with a few tablespoonfuls of fresh cream; cover
the _terrine_, and cook in the oven for from twenty to twenty-eight
minutes.
Serve the preparation in the _terrine_.
1842—FAISAN A LA PÉRIGUEUX
Stuff the pheasant with truffles, proceeding as for ordinary truffling
(No. 1956). _Poële_ it in Madeira; dish, and surround it with a border
of quenelles consisting of truffled game forcemeat, moulded by means of
a coffeespoon, and poached at the last moment.
Serve separately a Périgueux sauce combined with the reduced
_poëling_-liquor, cleared of all grease.
1843—FAISAN A LA RÉGENCE
_Poële_ the pheasant, and dish it on a low _croûton_, carved from a
sandwich-loaf and fried in butter.
Surround it with small, decorated, round game quenelles; large,
grooved, cooked mushrooms; and cocks’ kidneys; all three arranged
alternately.
Serve separately a Salmis sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and
combined with the strained and reduced _poëling_-liquor, cleared of all
grease.
1844—FAISAN A LA SAINTE-ALLIANCE
Bone two woodcocks, and put their livers and intestines aside.
Chop up their meat, together with a quarter of its weight of poached
and cooled beef-marrow, and as much fresh, fat bacon; salt, pepper, and
herbs. Add to this hash six oz. of raw, peeled, and quartered truffles,
slightly cooked in butter.
Stuff the pheasant with this preparation; truss it; wrap it in slices
of bacon, and keep it in the cool for twenty-four hours, that the aroma
of the truffles may be concentrated.
Roast the pheasant on the spit, or, if in the oven, set it on a
somewhat high stand in a baking-pan. Cut a large _croûton_ from a
sandwich-loaf, and fry it in clarified butter.
Pound the woodcocks’ livers and intestines with an equal weight of
grated fresh fat bacon, the well-washed fillets of an anchovy, one oz.
of butter, and one-half oz. of raw truffle. When this forcemeat is very
smooth and all its ingredients thoroughly mixed, spread it over the
fried _croûtons_.
When the pheasant is two-thirds cooked, set this coated _croûton_ under
the bird in such wise as to allow the juices escaping from the latter
to drop upon the _croûton_. Complete the cooking, and dish the pheasant
on the _croûton_. Surround with slices of bitter orange, and send the
gravy separately.
When serving, accompany each piece of pheasant with a slice of orange
and a small slice of the coated _croûton_.
1845—FAISAN SOUVAROFF
Cook six fair-sized truffles for five minutes in a glassful of Madeira
and an equal quantity of light meat glaze. Withdraw the truffles and
put them in the _terrine_ in which the pheasant will complete its
cooking.
Cut one-half lb. of foie gras into large dice; stiffen these in the
truffles’ cooking-liquor, and stuff the pheasant therewith. Truss the
latter; wrap it in slices of bacon, and two-thirds _poële_ it.
This done, put it into the _terrine_ containing the truffles; add the
_poëling_-liquor, a small glassful of Madeira, and the same quantity of
game gravy; hermetically close the _terrine_, and continue cooking for
about a quarter of an hour.
Serve the preparation as it stands.
1846—SUPRÊMES, CÔTELETTES ET FILETS DE FAISAN
Pheasant Suprêmes, Cutlets and Fillets, allow of the same garnishes as
those of fowl. But, whereas in the case of the latter, they are raised
raw, and then poached, my advice in regard to pheasant is, that it
should be previously roasted or _poëled_ (keeping it just underdone)
and that the _suprêmes_ be only raised at the last moment.
By this means, a much better result is obtained than by the poaching of
raw fillets; which, once cooked, are generally dry if they have to wait
but a few seconds.
I also advise, when the garnish consists only of foie-gras collops
and truffles (as in the case of the _Rossini_ garnish), the sending
separately of a small timbale of noodles with cream.
1847—SALMIS DE FAISAN
Salmis is perhaps the most delicate and most perfect of the game
preparations bequeathed to us by old-fashioned cookery. If it be less
highly esteemed nowadays, it is owing to the fact that this recipe has
been literally spoiled by the haphazard fashion in which it has been
applied right and left to game already cooked, and cooked again for the
purpose.
But the Salmis given above may always be included in any menu, however
sumptuous. It is applied more particularly to game of the 1st and 2nd
classes, which should be somewhat high when treated.
The recipe I give may be applied to all the birds in the two classes
referred to.
Roast the pheasant, keeping it moderately underdone. Quickly cut
it into eight pieces, thus: two legs, two wings (separated from the
pinions), and the breast cut into four lengthwise. Skin the pieces;
trim them neatly, and keep them at a temperate heat in a covered
vegetable-pan, with a few drops of burnt brandy and a little clear
melted meat glaze.
Pound the carcass and the trimmings, and add to them half a bottleful
of red wine (almost entirely reduced), three chopped shallots and a few
mignonette pepper. Add one-quarter pint of good game Espagnole sauce;
cook for ten minutes; rub through a sieve, pressing well the while, and
then strain through a strainer.
Reduce this sauce to about one-third, and despumate it; strain it once
more through a close strainer; add a small quantity of butter, and pour
it over the pieces of pheasant, to which add a fine, sliced truffle and
six grooved mushroom-heads.
I advise the discarding of the old method of dishing upon a cushion of
bread fried in butter, as also of the triangular _croûtons_ fried in
butter and coated with _gratin_ forcemeat, which usually accompanied
the Salmis.
A speedy preparation and a simple method of dishing, which facilitate
the service and allow of the Salmis being eaten hot, are the only
necessary conditions. Moreover, the goodness of the preparation is such
as to be independent of a fantastic method of dishing.
1848—SAUTÉ DE FAISAN
Unless it be prepared with the greatest care, _sautéd_ pheasant
is always dry. I therefore do not recommend it; but, should it be
necessary to make a dish of it, care should be observed in selecting a
young, plump bird. It should be cut up like a fowl, cooked in butter on
a moderate fire and kept somewhat underdone.
Dish it after the manner of a “poulet sauté” and cover it. Swill the
sautépan and prepare a sauce after the recipe in common use.
This sauce must always be short, and it should be poured over the
pheasant just before serving it.
1849—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE FAISAN
The preparation of hot, raised pheasant pies is the same as usual; the
ingredients alone changing. The reader will, therefore, kindly refer
to “Pâté chaud de Canard” (No. 1752), and duly note the following
modifications:—
(1) Use a _gratin_ forcemeat (No. 202) prepared from game livers and
meat.
(2) Roast the pheasant, keeping it underdone, and mix the pieces of
cooked mushroom with the sliced truffles.
(3) Accompany the pie by a Salmis sauce, prepared from the pheasant’s
carcass and remains.
1850—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE FAISAN
As already stated in various parts of this work, the constituents and
their quantities are the same for _mousses_ and _mousselines_, and but
for the basic ingredient, which is pheasant in this case, the procedure
does not differ from that already described.
The base of the sauces served with these _mousses_ and _mousselines_ is
a _fumet_ made from the carcasses and remains.
1851—SOUFFLÉ DE FAISAN
Prepare a very light, _mousseline_ forcemeat of pheasant.
Set in a buttered _soufflé_ saucepan, and cook in a moderate oven.
Send a fine, half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence, at the same
time.
=Cold Pheasant=
1852—FAISAN A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Proceed as for “Faisan à la Bohémienne” hot (No. 1831). Cook it in
an earthenware _terrine_, and add thereto, at the same time as the
prescribed brandy, enough succulent, savoury jelly to fill up the
_terrine_.
Leave to cool for a day or two, and, when about to serve, remove the
grease that has settled on the surface, by means of a spoon. Remove
the last vestiges of grease by repeated scaldings; carefully wipe the
_terrine_, and serve it incrusted in a block of ice.
1853—CHAUD-FROID DE FAISAN
Proceed exactly as for “Chaud-froid de Volaille” (No. 1689), and use a
brown chaud-froid sauce, flavoured with pheasant _fumet_.
In regard to the decoration, dishing, &c., follow the recipe already
referred to.
1854—CHAUD-FROID DE FAISAN A LA BULOZ
_Poële_ a pheasant, keeping it underdone; raise its _suprêmes_, and cut
these into thin collops.
With a _fumet_ prepared from the carcass and the _poëling_-liquor,
prepare a brown chaud-froid sauce. Coat the collops with this sauce,
and also coat ten cooked and grooved mushrooms with a white chaud-froid
sauce.
_Clothe_ a dome-mould with clear aspic jelly, and deck it with truffles.
Set the collops of pheasant and the chaud-froid-coated truffles inside,
alternating the two in so doing; fill up the mould with the same jelly,
and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out after the manner
of an aspic, on a low cushion of rice or semolina, lying on a round
dish.
Border with neatly-cut _croûtons_ of very clear aspic.
1855—FAISAN A LA CROIX DE BERNY
Roast the pheasant and keep it underdone. When it is quite cold, raise
its fillets and leave the legs and the wings attached to the carcass.
By means of scissors, completely bone the carcass; garnish its inside
with a truffled foie-gras Parfait, and cover it with a thin coat of
foie-gras _Mousse_.
Replace the fillets upon this _Mousse_, after having sliced them, and
fill any gaps that may exist between the slices with some of the same
_Mousse_: thus reconstructing the bird.
Let the _Mousse_ set thoroughly, and glaze with aspic jelly.
Meanwhile, coat eight boned, stuffed, poached and cold larks with brown
chaud-froid sauce. Decorate them with pieces of truffle and salted
tongue, and glaze them with aspic jelly.
Dish the pheasant on a low cushion; surround it with the larks, and
garnish the gaps between the latter with chopped and very clear aspic.
1856—FAISAN EN DAUBE
Proceed as for “Terrine de Poularde à la gelée” (No. 1701), making due
allowance, in the cooking, for the difference between the sizes of the
two birds.
1857—CÔTELETTES DE FAISAN
Proceed as for “Côtelettes froides de Volaille.”
1858—GALANTINE DE FAISAN
See “Galantine de Volaille” (No. 1708).
1859—MOUSSE DE FAISAN
Prepare the _Mousse_ according to the usual procedure, and mould it
after the manner of “Mousse de Volaille” (No. 1711).
1860—PAIN DE FAISAN EN BELLE-VUE
The procedure follows that of No. 1709, but for the difference in the
basic ingredient, which in this case is pheasant.
1861—SUPRÊMES DE FAISAN CHÂTELAINE
Raise the _suprêmes_ and prepare them exactly like the _suprêmes_ of
fowl in “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691). Poach them; cool them,
and cut them into medallions as explained.
Cover half of these medallions with chicken _Mousse_, and the other
half with pheasant _Mousse_. Keep on ice for some time that the
_Mousse_ may set. This done, coat the first lot with brown chaud-froid
sauce and the second lot with white chaud-froid sauce. Deck each
medallion with small pieces of truffle. Set them in a deep, square dish
(alternating the two colours), and cover with very clear, succulent
aspic jelly. Leave to set and serve on a block of ice.
1862—SUPRÊMES DE FAISAN GASTRONOME
_Poële_ the pheasant in Madeira and let it cool. Raise the fillets; cut
them into thin, regular slices; coat them with brown chaud-froid sauce,
and decorate according to fancy. With the trimmings and the meat of
the legs, prepare a pheasant _Mousse_ after the manner described under
No. 1711, and mould it in a Parfait mould which should have the depth
of the chaud-froid-coated slices.
When this _Mousse_ has set, turn it out on a dish and place the slices
all round, standing them upright and letting them lean one against the
other.
Surround with a crown of fine, fair-sized, peeled truffles, cooked in
Champagne, and set one of them on the top of the _Mousse_, fixing it
there by means of a _hatelet_.
Border the dish with fine _croûtons_ of aspic.
1863—TERRINE DE FAISAN
Prepare it after the manner of the “Terrine de Lièvre” (No. 1825), and
take care to make due allowance, in the cooking, for the difference, in
the matter of tenderness, between the two meats. But the explanations
already given on this subject ought to suffice for ascertaining whether
or not the patty have cooked sufficiently.
PARTRIDGE (PERDRIX ET PERDREAUX)
Three kinds of partridges are used in Cookery:—the Grey Partridge,
which is commonest in flat country, and which is also the most highly
esteemed; the Red Partridge, which is to be found in hilly and wooded
country; and the Bartavelle (perdix vertevella), which is a somewhat
larger species than the two former. To these three kinds may be added
the American Colin (Ortix Virginianus), an excellent bird sometimes
seen in English markets.
All the recipes given for pheasants may be applied to partridge, and
below, I shall only give those which are proper to the latter.
1864—PERDREAU A LA BOURGUIGNONNE
Truss the partridge as for an entrée; three-parts _poële_ it, and place
it in a _terrine_ with six small glazed onions and as many small,
cooked mushroom heads. Swill the saucepan with a glassful of red wine;
reduce it two-thirds, and add a tablespoonful of game half-glaze.
Strain; clear of grease; pour this sauce over the partridge, and
complete the latter’s cooking for seven or eight minutes.
1865—PERDREAU EN DEMI-DEUIL
Bone the breast and fill the partridge with truffled partridge
forcemeat, prepared with panada or butter. Between the skin and the
fillets, slip a few slices of very black truffle; truss as for an
entrée; wrap the piece in muslin, and poach it for thirty minutes in a
game _fumet_.
When about to serve, remove the muslin; take the string off, and dish
the partridge. Reduce the _fumet_ in which the partridge has poached;
strain it; add thereto a liqueur-glassful of burnt liqueur-brandy, and
send this reduced _fumet_ separately.
1866—PERDREAU EN ESTOUFFADE
Brown the partridge in the oven and set in a _terrine_ just large
enough to hold it, with a tablespoonful of Matignon (No. 227) and one
crushed juniper berry, on top and beneath.
Add one-half oz. of butter, a liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy, and
twice that amount of game _fumet_. Close the _terrine_; seal down the
lid with a strip of paste; bake in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes
and serve the dish as it stands.
1867—PERDREAU A LA LAUTREC
Select a young partridge; open its back; slightly flatten it with a
butcher’s beater; pierce it through with a skewer; season it with salt,
pepper and melted butter, and gently grill.
At the same time grill six small mushroom-heads.
Dish the partridge; on either side of it set the mushrooms, each of
which should be garnished with a coffeespoonful of Maître-d’hôtel
butter; surround the mushrooms with a thread of melted meat glaze and
sprinkle the partridge with a few drops of lemon juice.
1868—PERDREAU LADY CLIFFORD
Cook the partridge in butter in a saucepan. When it is three-parts
done, surround it with two oz. of fine slices of raw truffle; add a
liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy and one tablespoonful of clear melted
meat glaze.
Serve a Soubise sauce at the same time and separately.
1869—PERDREAU AUX CHOUX
Prepare a garnish of braised cabbages as explained under No. 2100,
and add thereto an old partridge, browned in the oven or on the spit.
Meanwhile, roast or _poële_ a very tender young partridge and keep it
underdone.
Dish the cabbages, which should be well drained; set the young
partridge upon them, and surround with small rectangles of very lean
bacon, cooked with the cabbages, and a thread of half-glaze sauce,
flavoured with game _fumet_.
N.B.—This dish may be given a more decorative appearance by means of
a sort of _Chartreuse_, which is prepared as follows:—Line a large
bowl or a buttered, round-bottomed timbale with roundels of sausages;
roundels of carrots arranged in superposed rows, separated by a line of
French beans or peas; and small rectangles of bacon, laid side by side.
Line the inside of the timbale with a thick layer of cabbages, and put
the young partridge, breast undermost, in the middle (the partridge
may also be carved up). Cover the cabbages and press the latter with
a fork; turn the timbale out on a dish and tilt the latter that all
the grease may fall before withdrawing the timbale, which answers the
purpose of a mould.
Surround with a thread of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game _fumet_.
1870—CRÉPINETTES DE PERDREAUX
After substituting the meat of a young partridge, cleared of all
tendons, for the veal sweetbreads, and fresh bacon for calf’s
udder, proceed exactly as directed (as regards quantities and other
particulars) under “Crépinettes de ris de Veau” (No. 1222), taking care
to add three oz. of chopped truffles per lb. of the forcemeat.
Divide up the forcemeat into portions one and one-half oz. to two oz.
in weight; wrap them in pig’s caul; roll them first in melted butter
and then in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.
The usual accompaniment to these crépinettes is a light chestnut or
lentil purée.
1871—EPIGRAMMES DE PERDREAU
Raise the young partridge’s fillets, leaving the wing-bone attached to
the carcass, and put them aside. From the minion fillets and the meat
of the legs, prepare a _mousseline_ forcemeat; mould the latter in very
small buttered cutlet moulds, and set to poach.
Roll the fillets in melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill them
gently. Dip the cutlets in beaten egg; roll them in finely-chopped
truffles; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may
combine with the egg; adjust the shape of the cutlets, and toss them in
butter.
Dish in the form of a circle, alternating the fillets and the cutlets;
pour in their midst a cullis prepared from the partridge’s carcasses,
and serve a chestnut purée separately.
1872—TIMBALE DE PERDREAU DIANE
Line a liberally-buttered, shallow mould with crescents of truffle
arranged in superposed rows, and then completely cover the bottom and
sides of the mould with a layer, two-thirds in. thick, of raw partridge
forcemeat.
Place the mould in the front of the oven that the forcemeat may be
poached; and then spread another layer of _gratin_ forcemeat of game.
Fill the utensil with a garnish of small quenelles consisting of
truffled partridge forcemeat, mushrooms and slices of truffles, cohered
with a reduced Madeira sauce. Cover the garnish with a small coat of
forcemeat, and poach in the _bain-marie_ for from thirty to thirty-five
minutes.
When about to serve, turn out on a dish, and deck the timbale with a
crown of partridges’ _suprêmes_, raised from birds fresh from the spit
or the oven. Surround the base of the timbale with a thread of Diane
sauce, and send a sauceboat of the latter separately.
1873—PERDREAUX FROIDS
The various recipes given for cold pheasant also suit cold partridge;
it is only necessary therefore to replace the word “pheasant” by
“partridge” in the formulæ referred to.
1874—WOODCOCK AND SNIPE (BÉCASSE ET BÉCASSINES)
If grouse, which can only be thoroughly appreciated in its native
country, were extinct, woodcock would be the leading feathered game.
But the latter have this advantage over the former, namely: that their
_fumet_ is not so fugitive, and that they may be kept much longer.
Woodcock does not yield its full quality unless it be moderately high.
1875—BÉCASSE DE CARÊME
Sprinkle the woodcock with a few drops of oil, and roast it, keeping it
underdone. As soon as it is cooked, divide it into two lengthwise, and
cut each half of the breast into two collops. Mix half a coffeespoonful
of French mustard in a small vegetable-pan, with a few drops of lemon
juice. Roll the pieces of woodcock in this mustard, and keep them hot.
Chop up the carcass and the intestines; sprinkle with a glassful of
burnt liqueur brandy; reduce; add a tablespoonful of game _fumet_, and
cook for five minutes.
Strain through a strainer, pressing on the pieces of woodcock in so
doing, and rock the saucepan, that the pieces may be coated with the
cullis. Dish in a hot timbale, and, upon the pieces, set the woodcock’s
head.
N.B.—_Bécasse à la fine Champagne_ is prepared in the same way, but
without mustard. Cut it into six pieces: wings, legs and two halves
of the breast, and put these pieces into a round _cocotte_. Swill the
saucepan with burnt liqueur brandy; add the chopped intestines, mixed
with the juices of the pressed carcass; add a tablespoonful of _fumet_,
a little lemon juice, and a little cayenne, and pour this cullis
(heated but not boiled) over the pieces.
_Bécasse à la Riche_ is prepared in the same way, but:—(1) the pieces
are dished on a _croûton_ of fried bread, coated with _gratin_
forcemeat of game; (2) the sauce is thickened with a little foie-gras
purée and one oz. of butter, and then strained over the pieces through
a coarse strainer, during which process the operator should press with
a spoon or a whisk.
1876—BÉCASSE A LA FAVART
Proceed as for “Caneton Rouennais Soufflé” (No. 1764), and remember to
add the woodcock’s intestines to the forcemeat.
When the carcass is garnished, set the sliced _suprêmes_ on the
forcemeat, with a row of sliced truffles in the middle. The forcemeat
should poach for about twenty minutes.
Serve at the same time a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with woodcock
_fumet_.
1877—SALMIS DE BÉCASSE
Under the article “Pheasant,” I gave the generic recipe for Salmis,
which may be applied to all feathered game. In regard to the Woodcock
Salmis, the operator should remember to add the bird’s intestines to
the sauce, and to keep the meat rather under- than overdone.
1878—BÉCASSE SOUVAROFF
Proceed exactly as for “Faisan à la Souvaroff” (No. 1845), after making
due allowance for the size of the bird in regard to the quantity of
truffles and foie gras.
1879—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE BÉCASSE
Proceed as indicated in No. 1850.
1880—TIMBALE DE BÉCASSE METTERNICH
Prepare a somewhat shallow, decorated timbale crust.
Roast the woodcocks and keep them underdone.
Raise the _suprêmes_ and put them in the timbale, separating them by
collops of fresh foie gras, _sautéd_ at the last moment.
Pound the remains of the woodcocks, including their carcasses; thin the
purée with truffle essence; rub it through a sieve, pressing heavily
the while, and then rub it through tammy.
Heat the cullis thus obtained, without letting it boil; finish it with
a little lemon juice, liqueur-brandy and butter, and pour it into the
timbale over the pieces of woodcock and the foie gras collops.
Dish the timbale on a folded napkin, lying on a round dish.
1881—TIMBALE DE BÉCASSE NESSELRODE
_Poële_ the woodcocks and keep them underdone.
As soon as they are cooked, raise their fillets and put these aside.
Bone the remains, and pound the meat thus obtained, together with a
quarter of its weight of raw foie gras.
Rub through a sieve, and add an equal weight of game forcemeat,
prepared with panada and butter. Add the chopped carcasses and a
glassful of liqueur brandy to the _poëling_-liquor; cook for a few
minutes; strain, and in this stock poach five oz. of olive-shaped
truffles (for an ordinary timbale).
Line a buttered Charlotte-mould with short paste; cover its bottom and
sides with the prepared forcemeat, and against this forcemeat set
the woodcock’s _suprêmes_, cut into collops. Garnish the centre with
the truffles, and cover these with a few tablespoonfuls of Espagnole,
reduced with some of the _fumet_. Close the timbale with a layer of
paste, as explained in the various preceding timbale recipes, and bake
in a good, moderate oven for about forty-five minutes.
When about to serve, turn out the timbale on a dish; pour into the
former some half-glaze sauce combined with what remains of the _fumet_,
and send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.
N.B.—This “Timbale Nesselrode” may be prepared after the same recipe,
from Pheasant, Partridge, Woodcock or Hazel-Hen, but the name of the
selected bird should, of course, appear on the menu.
1882—BÉCASSES ET BÉCASSINES FROIDES
All the recipes given for cold pheasant and partridge may be applied to
woodcocks and snipes.
1883—QUAILS
Quails should always be chosen plump, and their fat should be white and
very firm. Besides the spit, which should always be used in preference
to the oven for roasting, they allow of two other methods of cooking:
they may be cooked in butter, in a saucepan; or they may be poached in
excellent strong and gelatinous veal stock.
This last mode of procedure greatly enhances the quail’s quality and is
frequently used.
1884—CAILLES EN CASSEROLE
Cook them in butter, in the saucepan in which they will be served.
Swill with a few drops of brandy; add a little game _fumet_; cover, and
serve very hot.
1885—CAILLES AUX CERISES
For four quails:—Truss them as for an entrée and cook them with butter
in a saucepan. Swill with a little brandy and a glass of port, in which
a piece of orange rind should have soaked.
Add three tablespoonfuls of excellent veal stock, three tablespoonfuls
of red-currant jelly and about forty cherries, previously poached in a
boiling syrup of about 18° (Saccharometer) and cooled in the syrup.
Drain them before adding them to the quail, and, if the sauce be too
insipid, sharpen it with a few drops of lemon juice.
1886—CAILLES A LA DAUPHINE
Wrap each quail in a buttered vine-leaf and a thin, square slice of
bacon, and roast them for ten minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare a well-seasoned purée of fresh peas with lettuce,
and reduce it to a somewhat stiff consistence.
Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with very thin slices of ham;
pour the purée into it; smooth the surface, and half-plunge the quails
into this purée.
Place in the oven for ten minutes, and this done, send the dish to the
table immediately.
1887—CAILLES FIGARO
Insert a piece of truffle into each quail, and wrap them each in a
piece of gut together with a bit of pale veal glaze, the size of a
pigeon’s egg. String the pieces of gut at two points one in. from
either extremity of the quails, that the envelope may not burst
while cooking. Poach the quails in good veal stock, that they may
not be washed as they would be if the gut happened to burst in a
poaching-liquor consisting of salted water.
Serve the quails as they leave their cooking-liquor.
1888—CAILLES A LA GRECQUE
Cook the quails in a saucepan, and set them in a timbale,
half-garnished with “Riz à la Grecque.” Swill the saucepan with a few
tablespoonfuls of game _fumet_, and pour this swilling-liquor over the
quails, without clearing it of grease.
1889—CAILLES JULIETTE
Divide the quails into two along the back and do not separate the
two halves; season them; sprinkle them with melted butter and
finely-chopped truffle. Wrap each quail in a piece of pig’s caul;
sprinkle again with melted butter and fine raspings, and grill gently.
Dish the quails and sprinkle them with a few drops of verjuice.
1890—CAILLES JUDIC
_Poële_ the quails.
Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, braised lettuce,
with a cock’s kidney on either side and a truffle on top. Coat with a
half-glaze sauce prepared with quail _fumet_.
1891—CAILLES LUCULLUS
Cook the quails in butter. Dish them in a circle on a round dish, each
on an oval or rectangular fried _croûton_, and between each set a fine
truffle cooked in Champagne and chicken glaze.
1892—CAILLES A LA NORMANDE
Peel, mince and toss some apples in butter, as explained under “Faisan
à la Normande.” Allow half an apple per quail. Garnish the bottom
of a _cocotte_ with some of these apples; upon them set the quails,
browned in butter; add what remains of the apples; sprinkle with a few
tablespoonfuls of cream, and complete the cooking in the oven.
1893—CAILLES AUX PETITS POIS A LA ROMAINE
Cook the quails in butter. At the same time, fry in butter one small
new onion and two-thirds oz. of raw, chopped ham, for each quail. Add
some peas, shelled at the last moment, and cook without any moistening
whatsoever.
The moisture contained in the ham and peas is sufficient for the
cooking. The peas should be ready simultaneously with the quails.
Serve the quails and the peas separately, in little, closed timbales.
The diner mixes them.
1894—CAILLES AUX RAISINS
Cook the quails in butter. Swill the utensil with a few drops of dry,
white wine and a little verjuice; add half a tablespoonful of strong
game _fumet_ for each quail; and dish in a very hot _cocotte_ with
about one oz. of fresh peeled grapes for each quail.
1895—CAILLES RICHELIEU
Select some fresh and plump quails; remove their gizzards; season them
inside with a grain of salt and a few drops of brandy; insert a piece
of raw truffle into each bird, and truss them as for an entrée. Set
them in a sautépan, snugly pressed one against the other, and season
them with salt. Cover them with a coarse _julienne_ of carrots, onions
and celery, cooked in butter, and prepared as far as possible from new
vegetables.
Moisten, just enough to cover, with some succulent amber-coloured veal
stock, gelatinous and fine; cover, boil, and then poach gently for
twelve minutes.
This done, add a _julienne_ of truffles (raw if possible) which should
equal only half of the vegetable _julienne_, and poach for a further
two minutes, that the truffles may cook and the quails be done.
Dish in a timbale, clear of grease, and pour the cooking-liquor and the
_julienne_ over the quails.
Pilaff rice is often served with quails prepared in this way.
1896—RIZOTTO DE CAILLES
Into each quail insert a piece of fresh, pounded pork fat, the size of
a hazel nut, combined with an equal quantity of white truffle; and cook
them in a saucepan with butter.
Add their fat to a previously-prepared Rizotto. Dish this rizotto in a
timbale, and hollow it out so as to make a nest for the quails.
Sprinkle the latter with the saucepan-swillings, consisting of game
_fumet_; and send the dish to the table at once.
1897—CAILLES SOUS LA CENDRE
Stuff the quails with a little smooth truffled game forcemeat, and wrap
them each in a buttered vine-leaf, followed by a slice of bacon, and
finally by two sheets of buttered paper.
Place them on the hearth-stone; cover them with very hot cinders, and
cook thus for thirty-five minutes, taking care to renew the hot cinders
from time to time.
When about to serve them, remove the outside covering of paper which is
charred, but leave the other coverings.
N.B.—A log fire is essential for this recipe.
1898—CAILLES SOUVAROFF
Prepare these as described under “Faisan à la Souvaroff” (No. 1845).
1899—CAILLES A LA TURQUE
Truss the quails as for an entrée; brown them in butter, and complete
their cooking in pilaff rice, combined with a quarter of its weight of
cooked and chopped egg-plant pulp.
Set the rice in a pyramid on a dish; place the quails all round
(upright against the rice), and surround with a thread of quail _fumet_.
1900—TIMBALE DE CAILLES ALEXANDRA
Coat a well-buttered timbale mould with patty paste, and line it with
slices of bacon so as to completely cover the paste. The slices of
bacon in this case are there to prevent the moistening of the timbale
from reaching the paste. Insert a piece of foie gras into each quail;
stiffen them in butter, and set them against the sides of the timbale
in successive tiers.
Completely garnish the middle with small, peeled truffles; add
one-quarter pint of excellent stock with Madeira (per six quails), and
a few bits of bay-leaf. Close the timbale with a layer of paste and
cook in a moderately hot oven for one and one-quarter hours.
Turn out upon withdrawing from the oven, and serve the dish as it
stands.
N.B.—(1) The shell of paste merely serves to hold in the quails and
their garnish, and ought not to be eaten.
(2) The same timbale may be prepared with ortolans, except that these
need only forty-five minutes’ cooking.
=Cold Quails=
1901—CHAUD-FROID DE CAILLES EN BELLE-VUE
The quails should be boned for a chaud-froid, and stuffed with _gratin_
forcemeat of game with a rod of foie gras and another of truffle set
in the middle. This done, reshape them; wrap them each in a square of
muslin; poach them for twenty minutes in an excellent veal stock, and
let them cool therein.
When they are quite cold, dry them; and dip them, so as to veneer them
all over, in a good brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34), prepared with
quail _fumet_. Decorate the breast of each quail elegantly with bits
of truffle and poached white of egg; sprinkle with cold melted savoury
jelly, so as to fix the decoration; and leave to set.
Remove the excess of sauce from around the quails; set them in a
square, deep dish; cover them with very good limpid savoury jelly, and
place them in a refrigerator until they are required.
1902—CAILLES EN CAISSES
Prepare the quails as for a chaud-froid, as above; but set each in an
oval, pleated case of delicate porcelain or paper. Border with a thin
thread of chopped jelly, and on each quail set a head, the eyes of
which may be imitated by means of a ring of white of egg and a central
spot of truffle.
1903—CAILLES GLACÉES AU GRANITÉ
I shall only give a few recipes of this class; for the series is a
long one, and I recommend them more particularly on account of their
quaintness. These dishes, wherein a sugary and glazed preparation is
introduced, are highly esteemed in summer; but they really belong to
the culinary repertory of hot countries.
1904—CAILLES GLACÉES CERISETTE. Prepare the quails as for an entrée and
poach them for 12 minutes in a strong veal stock, with Champagne. This
done, put them each into a small, oval mould; fill up these moulds with
cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, and leave them to
set on ice.
This preliminary procedure applies to all quail dishes in this series.
Now prepare a Granité with cherry juice (see No. 2930).
Set this Granité in a pyramid on a dish incrusted in ice. Turn out the
quails and place them round the Granité; fill up the gaps between them
with small heaps of stoned cherries, poached in syrup for a few minutes
and quite cold.
1905—CAILLES GLACÉES CARMEN. Prepare the quails as above, and place
them round a rock of Granité made from pomegranates.
1906—CAILLES GLACÉES MARYLAND. Set them round a rock of Granité made
with pineapple.
1907—CAILLES GLACÉES REINE AMELIE. Prepare the quails in the usual way,
and lay them round a rock of Granité prepared with tomatoes.
1908—CAILLES GLACÉES AU ROMANÉE. Poach the quails in stock combined
with Romanée wine, and set them round a rock of Granité made with
verjuice.
1909—FILETS DE CAILLES AUX POMMES D’OR. Raise the quails’ _suprêmes_,
after having poached and cooled them. Set these _suprêmes_ in the
rinds of small oranges or tangerines, and fill up the rinds with jelly
prepared with Port. When about to serve, deck each orange or tangerine,
by means of the piping-bag, with a small ornament of Granité, prepared
with the juice of the fruit used.
1910—CAILLES CECILIA
Roast the quails, keeping them juicy, and leave them to cool.
This done, raise their fillets and skin these; then, with the remains
of the meat and an equal quantity of foie gras, prepare a purée.
Set each fillet of quail on a similarly-shaped slice of liver, causing
it to adhere by means of the prepared purée, and coat with brown
chaud-froid sauce.
When the sauce has quite set, place these fillets in an even
border-mould, _clothed_ with very limpid aspic, and decorated with
truffles. Fill up the mould with the same aspic jelly, and let the
latter set.
When about to serve, turn out on a napkin, after the manner of an aspic.
1911—CAILLES AU CHÂTEAU-YQUEM
Prepare the quails like those “à la Richelieu” (No. 1895). After having
added the _julienne_, sprinkle them with Château-Yquem; cover; reduce,
and complete their cooking as directed.
When they are poached, transfer them to another saucepan; add ten
slices of truffle per quail; strain their cooking-liquor, through
muslin, over them, and poach them for a further two minutes.
This done, place the quails in a timbale; cover them with the
cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; leave it to set, and serve on a
block of ice.
1912—MANDARINES DE CAILLES
Slice the tangerine rinds at their stem-ends with an even round cutter;
remove the sections; put them to dry, and skin them raw.
Three-parts garnish the tangerine rinds with a quail _Mousse_, combined
with foie gras, cut into dice; set a roasted quail’s fillet on the
_Mousse_; coat with brown chaud-froid sauce, and cover with the
sections of tangerine, glazed with aspic jelly. Keep in the cool for
some time and dish on a napkin.
1913—CAILLES NILLSON
Proceed as for “Cailles au Château-Yquem,” and set each quail in a
small, silver _cassolette_. Cover with the cooking-liquor, cleared of
grease and strained, and surround each quail with four small very white
cocks’ kidneys.
1914—CAILLES RICHELIEU FROIDES
Prepare these like the “Hot Cailles Richelieu”; place them in a square,
deep dish; cover with the cooking-liquor and the garnish and let them
cool until the cooking-liquor sets. Then clear the dish of all grease
and serve on a block of ice.
1915—TIMBALE DE CAILLES TZARINE
Line a round pie-dish with ordinary paste, and coat it inside with
slices of bacon. In the middle, place a fresh foie gras seasoned with
salt, pepper and allspice, and surround it with quails, stuffed with
quarters of truffles, set upright with their breasts against the bacon.
Fill up the timbale with whole raw and peeled truffles; cover with a
round slice of bacon; close the timbale with a layer of paste sealed
down round the edges; make a slit in the top, and bake in a hot oven
for one and one-quarter hours.
When withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some veal
stock flavoured with Madeira, and let it be sufficiently gelatinous to
set like a jelly.
Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.
1916—CAILLES A LA VENDANGEUSE
Roast the quails; let them cool, and set them, each in a little dosser
of dry paste, resting against a cushion lying on a round dish. On top
of the cushion plant a leafy vine-shoot bearing grapes. Surround the
quails with white and black grapes (peeled and pipped) and cover with a
slightly gelatinous aspic jelly, prepared with liqueur brandy.
1917—MOUSSES DE CAILLES
See the various remarks made concerning this subject, under Pheasant,
Partridge and Woodcock.
1918—LAND RAIL, ROI DE CAILLES OU RÂLE DE GENÊTS
The Land Rail, which must not be confused with the Water Rail, is most
often served roasted, but all the quail recipes, hot or cold (except
those in which Granité forms an accompaniment) may be applied to it.
1919—HAZEL-HENS 1920—BLACK GAME
1921—PRAIRIE-HENS 1922—PTARMIGAN
1923—GROUSE 1924—GANGAS
These birds, one or two of which, such as grouse and the hazel-hen, are
of incomparable delicacy and high culinary value, are mostly served
roasted.
_Mousses_, _Mousselines_ and Salmis are also prepared from them, after
the directions already given. But I must remind the reader that when
they serve in the preparation of a salmis, their skins and legs, which
are bitter, must be discarded.
All these birds must be treated while still very fresh.
1925—GRIVES ET MERLES DE CORSE (Thrushes and Corsican Blackbirds)
The greater part of the quail recipes, more particularly the “en
casserole” and “sous la cendre” ones, may be applied to these excellent
birds.
The two following recipes are proper to them.
1926—GRIVES OU MERLES A LA BONNE-FEMME
Cook the birds in butter, with one oz. of very small dice of salted
breast of bacon to each bird. Put them into a hot _cocotte_ with
two-thirds oz. of butter per bird; heat; add some square _croûtons_
fried in butter; sprinkle with the saucepan-swillings, which should be
a few drops of brandy; cover, and serve very hot immediately.
1927—GRIVES OU MERLES A LA LIÉGEOISE
Cook the birds in butter on the stove, in an uncovered earthenware
saucepan. When they are nearly done, sprinkle them with two
finely-chopped juniper berries per bird; add some round _croûtons_ of
bread-crumb fried in butter; cover, and serve very hot.
This procedure particularly suits thrushes, more especially when these
come from the Ardennes.
1928—GRIVES ET MERLES FROIDS
The various, cold preparations of quails, except those comprising a
Granité, may be applied to thrushes.
=Alouettes ou Mauviettes (Larks)=
These birds are generally served to the number of two or three for each
person.
1929—MAUVIETTES A LA BONNE-FEMME
Proceed exactly as directed for the thrushes.
1930—MAUVIETTES A LA MÈRE MARIANNE
Slice some peeled and cored russet apples, and three-parts cook them in
butter. Spread this stew in thick layers on a buttered dish.
Simply stiffen the seasoned larks in nut-brown butter, and place
them upon the stewed apples, pressing them slightly into the latter.
Sprinkle with very fine bread-crumbs and melted butter, and set to
glaze in the oven or at the Salamander, just long enough to complete
the cooking of the larks.
1931—ALOUETTES DU PÈRE PHILIPPE
Clean some fine, medium-sized potatoes, allowing one to each lark; and
cut a cover from each, which thin down until it is only one-sixth inch
thick. With a root-spoon, hollow out the potatoes in such wise as to
allow of their each enclosing a lark.
Stiffen the larks in butter, and add thereto some salted breast of
bacon, cut into small dice and _blanched_, and in the proportion of
one-third oz. per lark. Place a lark in each potato, together with a
few bacon dice and some of the cooking-fat; return cover of each potato
to its place; fix it there by means of cotton, and wrap each potato in
oiled paper.
Lay them on the hearth, cover them with hot cinders, and cook for about
forty minutes, taking care to renew the cinders from time to time.
1932—MAUVIETTES FROIDES
When cold, larks may be prepared in plain chaud-froid fashion, in
cases, in Belle-vue, in Aspic, as _Mousses_, &c., in pursuance of the
directions given under these various recipes.
1933—ORTOLANS
Serve ortolans as plainly as possible; but the best method of preparing
them is roasting. However, for the sake of variety, they may be
prepared as follows:—
1934—SYLPHIDES D’ORTOLANS
Butter some very small porcelain or silver _cassolettes_, and garnish
them half-full with _mousseline_ forcemeat of ortolans prepared with
truffle essence.
Set these _cassolettes_ in the front of the oven, that the forcemeat
may poach. Cook in butter, for three minutes only, as many ortolans as
there are garnished _cassolettes_, and proceed so as to have them just
ready when the forcemeat is poached.
Place an ortolan in each _cassolette_, and sprinkle them with nut-brown
butter, combined with a little pale melted glaze and pineapple juice.
1935—BECS-FIGUES ET BEGUINETTES (Fig Peckers)
These birds are not met with in English markets; it is therefore
useless to give the recipes concerning them. I will only say that they
may be prepared like the larks.
1936—CANARDS SAUVAGES (Wild Duck)
1937—SARCELLES (Teal)
1938—PILETS (Pintails and Widgeons)
Birds of this class are mostly served roasted.
They may, however, be used in preparing excellent Salmis, which may
be made after “Salmis de Faisan” (No. 1847) or after “Salmis à la
Rouennaise” (No. 1763).
They may also be prepared after all the recipes of “Caneton à la
Rouennaise.”
1939—PLUVIERS DORÉS (Golden Plover)
1940—VANNEAUX (Lapwings)
1941—CHEVALIERS DIVERS (Various Sandpipers)
These various birds are generally served roasted.
They may also be served “en Salmis,” but in that case the skin must be
discarded in the preparation of the cullis.
They only appear on very ordinary menus, and could not be served at an
important dinner.
CHAPTER XVII
ROASTS AND SALADS
In the first part of this work I explained the fundamental principles
governing the treatment of Roasts, and I now have to add only a few
words to what has already been said. Recipes may be consummate in
detail and in accuracy, and still they will be found wanting in the
matter of Roasts; for experience alone can tell the operator whether
the joint he is treating be old or young, fresh or stale; whether it
must be cooked quickly or slowly, and all the theories that I might
advance on this subject, though perhaps they might not be useless,
would at least prove impracticable nine times out of ten.
I shall not prescribe any limit of time for Roasts, except in very
special cases, and even so that limit will only be approximate.
Nothing can be made precise in the matter; long practice alone, away
from books, will teach it; for book-rules can only be understood when
the light of practical knowledge is focussed upon them.
1942—ACCOMPANIMENT OF ROASTS
It struck me as desirable that I should give in this chapter the
recipes of the various preparations which, in England, are served with
Roasts:—Yorkshire Pudding, Veal Stuffing, &c. Having treated of the
accompanying sauces to Roasts in Part I, I need only recall them here.
1943—YORKSHIRE PUDDING (For Beef Roasts)
Mix one-half lb. of sifted flour with six eggs and one quart of boiled
milk, adding the eggs one by one and the milk little by little. Season
with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Pour this preparation into a deep baking-pan, containing some very hot
dripping, and bake in the oven. If the joint be roasted on the spit,
put the Yorkshire pudding under it, on taking the former out of the
oven, and let it thus become saturated with the gravy and fat that fall
from the roast.
Cut into squares or lozenges, and set these round the Roast or serve
them separately.
1944—SAGE AND ONIONS STUFFING (For Turkeys, Ducks and Geese)
Bake four large onions in the oven with their skins on. This done, peel
them and finely chop them; fry them in butter with a pinch of dry green
chopped sage. Add bread-crumbs, soaked in milk and pressed, equal in
weight to the onions, and half the weight of chopped veal fat.
1945—VEAL STUFFING (For Veal and Pork)
This stuffing is made from equal quantities of chopped suet, sifted
bread-crumbs, and chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper as for
an ordinary forcemeat, and be liberal with the nutmeg.
Cohere this forcemeat with three small eggs per two lbs. of the above
preparation.
1946—ROASTS OF BUTCHER’S MEAT
I must remind the reader of this principle, viz.: that however natural
it may seem in a dinner to serve a roasted joint as a Remove, a piece
of butcher’s meat must never stand as a Roast.
Roasts really only comprise _Fowl_ and _Feathered Game_, provided
the menu only announces one roast. If two are announced, the second
generally consists of some kind of crustacean, such as a _Lobster_,
a _Spiny Lobster_ or _Crayfish_, generally served in the form of a
_Mousse_; or of a preparation of foie gras, _i.e._: either a _Pâté_, a
_Terrine_, a _Mousse_ or a Parfait; sometimes, too, by a very good ham
or a derivative preparation thereof.
=Beef Roasts=
1947—ROAST RIBS OF BEEF
Clear the joint of the vertebræ and the yellow ligaments. Roast before
a moderately fierce fire, and place the joint if possible in an
uncovered braising-pan, the sides of which may protect the meat during
the cooking process.
1948—ROAST UPPER-FILLET
Break the projecting bones of the vertebræ, and sever the yellow
ligament at various points. For this joint the heat should be fiercer
than in the previous case, the limit of time being less.
1949—ROAST SIRLOIN
These enormous pieces are scarcely trimmed; the excess of flank alone
is suppressed; but the fillet must remain covered by a considerable
thickness of fat, which protects it while roasting.
Without this precautionary measure, the under-cut would be cooked long
before the upper-fillet, and would dry up.
The fire should be concentrated, regular and not too fierce for this
joint. The flat bones of the vertebræ must be broken at their base, but
not detached.
1950—FILLET OF BEEF
Fillet of beef intended for roasting should be carefully cleared of
its two sinewy envelopes. But, since this trimming tends to let it dry
while cooking, were the meat left as it stands, it is customary to
lard it with strips of fresh fat bacon, which protect it; or it may be
wrapped in slices of bacon. In certain circumstances, it is covered on
top and beneath with slices of beef fat, flattened to the thickness of
a rasher of bacon by means of a beater, and tied on with string.
Fillet of beef should be cooked with a somewhat fierce fire, and, in
England, it is usually kept underdone towards the centre.
N.B.—Large roast joints of beef are always accompanied by Yorkshire
pudding, grated Horse-radish or Horse-radish sauce (No. 119 or 138).
1951—RÔTIS DE VEAU (Veal Roasts)
In my opinion, the spit does not suit veal, whatever be the quality of
the latter. _Poëling_ (No. 250) is preferable and suits it better.
The quality of meat can but be enhanced under the treatment I suggest,
more particularly as the _poëling_-liquor constitutes a much richer
gravy than that which generally accompanies veal roasted on the spit.
In English cookery roast veal is always accompanied by boiled ham or
breast of bacon. _Veal Stuffing_ (No. 1945) poached in steam in a
special mould, and cut into slices, is sent at the same time.
Roast joints of veal are generally _the Loin_, the best end, the
_Neck_ or the _Fillet_.
Sometimes, too, but more rarely, _the Cushion_ is roasted.
1952—MUTTON AND LAMB ROASTS
Mutton and Lamb are the best possible meats to roast, and, as far as
they are concerned, the culinary treatment might be limited to roasting.
True, good results are obtained from poaching mutton and _poëling_
home-lamb; but it is advisable only to have recourse to these methods
when a menu requires varying.
The Mutton joints roasted are _the Leg_, _the Double or Pair of
Hind-legs_, _the Baron_ or (_Hindquarters_), _the Saddle_ and _the
Neck_.
The Shoulder also makes an excellent roast, but it may only appear on
more or less unimportant menus.
Roast joints of mutton and lamb are always accompanied by Mint Sauce
(No. 136).
1953—PORK ROASTS
Pork roasts may only appear on very ordinary menus, and really belong
to domestic cookery. The pork joints for roasting are _the Legs_, _the
Fillets_, and _the Neck_.
The joints selected should be those derived from very young animals,
and the rind should be left upon them, and cut deeply in criss-cross
lines, so as to form a lozenge pattern.
Pork should always be roasted before a fierce fire, and it is
accompanied by its gravy and Sage and Onions (No. 1944) or Apple
sauce (No. 112). Sometimes Apple sauce is replaced by Cranberry sauce
(No. 115); while Roberts sauce Escoffier is also admirably suited to
these roasts.
1954—VENISON ROASTS
I have already pointed out that Roebuck is not very much eaten in
England, and that this excellent ground game must be used without
having been _marinaded_. Every piece of roebuck must be trimmed and
cleared of tendons, larded with larding bacon, or, at least, carefully
wrapped in the latter; and roasted before a fierce fire and kept
underdone towards the centre.
The joints of roebuck most commonly roasted are _the Legs_ and _the
Saddle_.
_The fallow Deer_ and _the Stag_ supply the greater part of the Venison
consumed in England; and when these animals are of good quality their
flesh is covered by a thick coat of white fat, which is very highly
esteemed by connoisseurs. Only the neck and the haunch are roasted, and
the latter consists of one leg with half of the saddle attached.
This venison is never _marinaded_, but it should be kept for as long as
possible in a dry and well-aired place, that the meat may be gamy.
Before hanging the joint, dredge it well with a mixture of flour and
pepper, that it may keep dry and free from the flies.
When about to prepare this Venison, scrape off the coating of flour;
wrap it in an envelope of firm suet dough. Cover the whole with oiled
paper, tied on with string; and place the joint before a regular, red
fire, concentrated and fierce.
When the joint is thought to be cooked, peel off its envelope; season
it with salt; sprinkle it with a few pinches of flour, and plenty of
melted butter, and brown it as quickly as possible.
Large joints of Venison allow of the following adjuncts:—_Poivrade
sauce_ and its derivatives, such as _Venison sauce_ and _Grand-Veneur
sauce_; also _the Cumberland_ and _Oxford_ sauces of English cookery.
Generally a sauceboat of red-currant jelly is sent with these joints,
unless the accompanying sauce already contains some of it.
=Fowl Roasts=
1955—PULLETS
Large birds, when roasted, should always be salted inside, trussed
and covered with slices of bacon. They should be cooked before a
concentrated and moderately fierce fire. About ten minutes before
unhooking them, remove their covering of bacon, that their breasts may
colour.
A bird is known to be cooked when the juice which issues from it, if it
be held over a plate, is white. Having ascertained that it is cooked,
set it on a very hot dish and serve it instantly.
In England it is customary to surround the fowl with grilled sausages
or slices of bacon, and to send a sauceboat of bread sauce (No. 113) at
the same time as the gravy.
1956—TRUFFLED PULLET
Empty the pullet intended for truffling, by means of a little hole on
the side of the belly, and remember to keep the skin of the neck whole.
This done, remove the collar bone at the summit of the breast, and
detach the skin from the whole of the breast.
For a fine pullet, there will be needed one and one-half lbs. of
truffles.
After having well brushed and washed the truffles, carefully peel them;
select one of the largest; cut it into slices, and put these aside.
Now quarter the other, letting each piece weigh about three oz.
Pound the truffle peel with two lbs. of very fresh pork fat, and rub
the whole through a sieve. Take about one-half lb. of this fat; melt
it, together with a bay-leaf; and, when it is quite liquid, add the
quartered truffles to it (seasoned with salt and pepper), and simmer
the whole for about ten minutes.
This done, take it off the fire; leave to cool almost entirely under
cover, and mix with what remains of the truffled fat.
Stuff the pullet with this preparation, and slip between the bird’s
skin and the flesh of its breast some thin slices of bacon. Upon the
slices of bacon place the reserved slice of truffle; carefully sew up
all the openings in the pullet with very thin string; wrap it in one or
two sheets of buttered paper; put it on the spit, and stand it before a
concentrated fire which should be kept at an even heat throughout the
process of roasting.
About one-quarter of an hour before serving, remove the paper and the
slices of bacon, that the breast may colour. Set on a hot dish, and
send the gravy, which should be kept rather fat, separately.
The time allowed for roasting a fine fowl is somewhere between one and
one-quarter to one and one-half hours.
1957—CHICKEN A LA REINE AND SPRING CHICKENS
The directions given for the pullet also apply to other kinds of fowl,
provided the difference in size be taken into account.
1958—SPRING CHICKENS A LA RUSSE
Truss the chicken and soak its breast for five minutes in boiling
water, that the flesh and the skin may be stiff.
Lard it with thin strips of bacon and anchovy fillets; fill it with
smooth, truffled sausage-meat, and roast it on the spit.
At the last moment, when the bird is cooked, baste it by means of a
special paper horn, with burning melted bacon fat, which should frizzle
the fowl’s skin as it falls upon it.
Serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.
1959—ROAST CHICKS
These birds should, if possible, be cooked “_à la casserole_.”
1960—ROAST YOUNG TURKEYS
Before trussing the young turkey, clear its legs of all tendons; an
operation effected by means of two incisions made on the inside of the
legs, above and below the last joint. Seize the tendons one by one;
fasten them to a braiding needle, and gently turn the latter, thus
rolling the tendons round it.
Young turkey is covered with slices of bacon and roasted like the
Pullet.
It may be stuffed with Sage and Onions (No. 1944), or it may be
accompanied by Veal Stuffing (No. 1945), poached in steam in a special
mould, and cut into slices set around the bird.
It is often accompanied, also, by boiled or grilled bacon, or grilled
sausages. _A Bread sauce_ or _a Cranberry sauce_ may be served in
addition to the gravy.
1961—TRUFFLED YOUNG TURKEY
Proceed as for truffled pullet, after taking the difference of size
into account in order to increase the quantity of truffles and fat, as
also the time limit.
1962—ROAST GOSLING
The Gosling, in order to be roasted, should just have reached its full
growth. In England the bird is stuffed with Sage and Onions (No. 1944),
and it is always accompanied by Apple Sauce (No. 112).
This roast must not stand waiting, and ought to be served very hot.
1963—CANETON RÔTI (Roast Duckling)
Aylesbury duckling, which is equal to the Nantes variety, is generally
stuffed with Sage and Onions before being roasted.
Its most usual adjunct is Apple Sauce, which is sometimes replaced by
melted, red-currant jelly or a Cranberry Sauce.
1964—CANETON ROUENNAIS
See the various recipes dealing with this bird (Nos. 1761 and 1762).
1965—PINTADE (Guinea Fowl)
This bird is only roasted when quite young, and it is treated like the
pheasant, with which it has some points in common.
1966—YOUNG PIGEONS (Squabs)
Select them fresh from the nest and very plump. They must be roasted
before a very fierce fire and only just done. Their skin must be kept
crisp.
=Ground-Game Roasts=
1967—HARE
The piece supplied by the hare for roasting is the “Râble” (the back),
which constitutes that part of the animal reaching from the root of the
neck to the tail, the latter being included.
The “Râble” should be cleared of all tendons, and delicately larded
with bacon.
Roast before a fierce fire for twenty minutes, and have it only just
done. The usual adjunct to this piece is Poivrade Sauce. In Northern
countries, the adjunct is most commonly some slightly-sugared, stewed
apples, or red currant jelly.
In Germany, the pan in which the Râble is roasted is swilled with sour
cream, and this cream constitutes the accompaniment. Sometimes a few
drops of lemon juice or a tablespoon of melted meat glaze is added.
1968—YOUNG RABBIT
The various recipes for Hare also apply to the young wild rabbit.
=Feathered-Game Roasts=
1969—FAISAN RÔTI
Everything I said in the preceding chapter concerning the
classification of feathered game applies in this instance.
All birds intended for roasting should be young, plump, and fat. They
should also be high in the case of pheasants, partridges, and the
various kinds of woodcock and snipe.
A pheasant for roasting should always be covered with slices of bacon.
An excellent practice which greatly improves the bird is that of
stuffing it with a piece of fresh pork fat, pounded with peelings of
fresh truffles, if possible.
Instead of well-pounded fresh pork fat, an equal weight of fresh butter
may be used.
This fatty substance impregnates the meat when it melts, and keeps
the bird from becoming dry while cooking. The method also applies to
partridge. Roast pheasant is generally accompanied by two trimmed
half-lemons and a dish of potato chips. The gravy, which should be fat,
is served in a sauceboat, and bread sauce or some bread-crumbs fried in
butter are sent at the same time.
1970—FAISAN RÔTI A LA PERIGOURDINE
Stuff the pheasant with two oz. of pounded fresh pork fat, two oz. of
foie-gras trimmings, and a similar quantity of raw-truffle parings,
the whole pounded together and combined with one-half lb. of raw
truffles, cut into large dice.
After having covered the pheasant with slices of bacon, roast it in
accordance with the directions given under Truffled Pullet. It is
better, however, to cook and serve it in a _cocotte_.
1971—FAISAN A LA GUNZBOURG
Bone two fine snipes; empty them of their intestines; fry these in
butter, and crush them on a plate. Chop up the meat of the snipes,
combining half its weight of cream with it, and as much butter; season
with salt and pepper, and add the crushed intestines and four oz. of
truffles cut into large dice.
Stuff a fine pheasant with this preparation; roast it “_en casserole_,”
or rather in a _cocotte_.
At the last moment sprinkle with a little _fumet_, prepared from the
snipes’ carcasses.
1972—PARTRIDGES
The above recipes, dealing with pheasants, may be applied to partridges.
1973—QUAILS
Select them white, very fat, and with the fat firm.
Wrap them in a buttered vine-leaf and a thin slice of bacon, and roast
them before a fierce fire for ten or twelve minutes.
Dish on small bread-crumb _croûtons_, fried in butter with half-lemons.
Serve their gravy, which, of course, should be very short, separately.
1974—ROAST ORTOLANS
Wrap each in a vine-leaf; set them on a tray, moistened with salted
water, and cause them to set in a fierce oven for four or five minutes.
The small amount of water lying on the bottom of the utensil produces
an evaporation which prevents the ortolans’ fat from melting;
consequently there is no need of slices of bacon, butter, or gravy.
Each ortolan may be served in a half-lemon, shaped like a basket.
N.B.—The ortolan is sufficient in itself, and it ought only to be eaten
roasted. The products sometimes served as adjuncts to it, such as
truffles and foie gras, are deleterious, if anything, to its quality,
for they modify the delicacy of its flavour, and this modification is
more particularly noticeable the more highly flavoured the adjunctive
products may be.
With its accompaniments it becomes a sumptuous dish, for the simple
reason that it is expensive; but it does not follow that the true
connoisseur will like it; it must be plainly roasted to suit him.
1975—ORTOLANS AUX QUESTCHES
Cut two large questches into halves, and allow one half for each
ortolan. Garnish the inside of each with a piece of butter the size of
a hazel-nut; set them on a tray, and put them in the oven. When they
are almost cooked, on each half of the questches place a moistened
ortolan, wrapped in a vine-leaf, and bake them in a very hot oven for
four minutes.
Salt them when taking them out of the oven, and sprinkle them, by means
of a brush, with verjuice.
Serve them as they stand, but the questches are not eaten; they only
serve as a support for the ortolan.
1976—ORTOLANS AU SUC D’ANANAS
Heat some fresh butter in a flat, earthenware _cocotte_, and allow
one-quarter oz. of it to each ortolan. Roll the previously salted
ortolans in this butter, and put them in a very hot oven for three
minutes.
When taking them out of the oven, sprinkle them with a few
tablespoonfuls of very cold pine-apple juice. Cover the _cocotte_, and
serve immediately.
The _cocotte_ should be just large enough to hold the ortolans.
1977—ROAST WOODCOCK
It should be just sufficiently high. Remove its gizzard; truss it,
piercing the legs with the beak, after having drawn the eyes; cover it
with slices of bacon, and cook it before a good fire for from fifteen
to eighteen minutes. Dish on a cushion of fried bread, and serve the
swilling-liquor separately, which in this case should be brandy and a
few drops of good game gravy.
1978—SNIPES AND BECOTS
For the preparation, proceed as for the woodcock.
Cause to set before a fierce fire, and cook for nine minutes.
1979—GRIVES ET MERLES DE CORSE (Thrushes and Corsican Blackbirds)
Truss them, and wrap them in slices of bacon. Insert a juniper berry
into the thrushes. Roast before a moderately fierce fire for ten or
twelve minutes, and dish on small cushions of fried bread.
Serve a very short gravy separately.
1980—MAUVIETTES (Larks)
Wrap them in very thin slices of bacon, and impale them on a skewer,
or discard the slices of bacon, and merely impale them on a skewer,
separating them by _blanched_ squares of breast of bacon.
Roast for ten minutes before a fierce fire.
Dish on small fried _croûtons_, with quarters of lemon and bunches of
watercress all round.
1981—CANARDS SAUVAGES (Wild Duck)
SARCELLES (Teal)
PILETS (Widgeons and Pintails)
These birds are not covered with slices of bacon, and are roasted
before a fierce fire.
_Wild duck_ must be kept underdone, and, in view of this, twenty
minutes suffice for the roasting. Dish with lemons and bunches of
watercress all round.
_Wild duck, roasted English-fashion._—Treat it as above; send an apple
sauce to the table with it.
_Wild duck à la Bigarrade._—This is roasted in a similar manner.
Surround it with sections of orange, skinned raw, and serve a clear
Bigarrade sauce separately.
The _teal_, which is a small, wild duck, is roasted before a fierce
fire for from ten to twelve minutes, and is surrounded with lemons and
watercress.
_Widgeons_ and _pintails_ are treated like the teal, but they are
allowed three or four minutes more in the roasting.
1982—PLUVIERS DORÉS (Golden Plover)
VANNEAUX (Lapwings)
CHEVALIERS DIVERS (Various Sandpipers)
These birds are not covered with slices of bacon; they must be roasted
before a very fierce fire, and kept somewhat underdone. They must be
served as soon as ready, as waiting is prejudicial to them.
They admit of no accompaniment or garnish, except a very short gravy.
1983—GROUSES, COQS DE BRUYÈRE (Black Game)
GELINOTTES (Hazel-hens)
These birds must be very fresh when roasted, and should be kept
moderately underdone.
They allow of the same adjuncts as pheasant, _i.e._, bread sauce,
bread-crumbs, potato chips, and gravy; and their breasts alone are
served as a rule. Grouse and hazel-hens, when they are young, make
incomparably fine roasts.
SALADS
Salads are of two kinds: simple, or compound. Simple, or raw salads
always accompany hot roasts; compound salads, which generally consist
of cooked vegetables, accompany cold roasts.
1984—THE SEASONING OF SALADS
1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of
three parts of oil to one part of vinegar, with salt and pepper.
2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of
early-season lettuce and cos lettuce, and is made up of three parts of
very fresh and not very thick cream to one part of vinegar.
3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg,
mixed in the salad-bowl with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. The whites
of egg, cut into thin strips, are added to the salad. This seasoning
may also be a light mayonnaise sauce.
4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage,
and corn salads. In this case the oil is replaced by the grease of
the bacon dice, which are melted and frizzled in the omelet-pan. This
grease is poured, while hot, with the bacon dice, over the salad, which
should be in a hot salad-bowl and already seasoned with salt, pepper,
and the vinegar which has served in swilling the omelet-pan.
5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot
salads, with salads of celeriac, and with green salads wherein beetroot
plays a major part. It is made up of a small tablespoonful of mustard,
mixed with one-third pint of fresh and somewhat thin cream, the juice
of a fair-sized lemon, salt, and pepper.
N.B.—I should like to point out that mayonnaise sauce must only be
used in very small quantities in the seasoning of salads. It is
indigestible, and many constitutions cannot suffer it, especially at
night at the end of a dinner.
Raw onion should likewise only be used in salads with great moderation,
in view of the fact that so many do not like it. In any case, it should
be finely _ciseled_, washed in fresh water, and pressed in the corner
of a towel.
1985—SIMPLE SALADS
They comprise, in the first place, those salads known under the name of
green salads. Such are lettuce, cos lettuce, chicory, endive, batavia,
celery, corn-salad, dandelion, purslain, dittander, rampion, salsify
leaves, white dandelion, &c.
1986—SALADS DE BETTERAVE (Beetroot Salad)
Beetroot is really the accompaniment of compound and simple salads, and
it is always best to cook it in the oven. If it be prepared specially
as a salad, cut it into a _julienne_ or into thin roundels; flavour it
with onions, first baked in cinders and then finely chopped, and season
it with mustard sauce or with oil, according to fancy. Always add some
chopped herbs.
1987—CELERY SALAD
For salads, only the fibreless, white celery is used—commonly known as
English celery. Cut it into pieces, and _cisel_ these into very thin
strips without altogether separating the latter at their base. Place in
cold water for a few hours, that the strips may curl; drain and season
with a mustard sauce with cream.
1988—CELERIAC SALAD
Cut the celeriac into a fine _julienne_ or _paysanne_.
Season, according to fancy, with a mustard sauce with cream, or a clear
mayonnaise sauce containing plenty of mustard.
1989—CAULIFLOWER SALAD
Divide the cooked and somewhat firm cauliflowers into small bunches,
cleared of all stalk. Season with oil and vinegar, and flavour with
chopped chervil.
1990—RED-CABBAGE SALAD
Suppress the midribs of the leaves; cut the leaves into a _julienne_,
and season them with oil and vinegar six hours in advance. The
_julienne_ of cabbages may be parboiled for a few minutes to modify
the rawness of the vegetable; it should then be cooled and seasoned as
above.
1991—CUCUMBER SALAD
Peel and thinly slice them; sprinkle the slices with table-salt, and
let them stand for two hours. Dry, and season them with oil, vinegar,
and chopped chervil.
1992—HARICOT BEANS AND LENTIL SALADS, ETC.
Thoroughly drain the vegetable, whatever be its kind; season with
oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley. Serve separately some
thinly-_ciseled_, washed, and pressed onion.
1993—POTATO SALAD
Cut some long, fair-sized potatoes, cooked in salted water and
lukewarm, to the shape of corks, and divide up the latter into thin
roundels.
Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped herbs.
1994—POTATO SALAD A LA PARISIENNE
Select potatoes which do not crumble, such as the vitelottes or new
kidney potatoes. Cook them in salted water; cut them to the shape of
corks, and slice them (while still lukewarm) into thin roundels. Put
them into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle them with two-thirds pint of white
wine per two lbs. of potatoes. Then season with oil and vinegar, add
some chopped chervil and parsley, and stir with care lest the roundels
break.
1995—TOMATO SALAD
Select some medium-sized and rather firm tomatoes, and scald them. Then
skin them; cut them in two crosswise; press them to clear them of juice
and seeds; cut them into thin strips; season them with oil and vinegar,
and add some chopped tarragon.
1996—COMPOUND SALADS
Unless they leave the kitchen to be served immediately, compound salads
are dished without their constituents being mixed. As the latter are
generally of various colours, they are seasoned and dished in distinct
heaps of contrasted shades.
The dishing of compound salads is finished by means of borders
consisting of pieces of very red beetroot, gherkins, truffles, roundels
of potatoes, and radishes. The method of arranging these vegetables
constitutes the decoration, and the latter, being subject to no rules,
is merely a matter of taste.
I do not advise the moulding of compound salads, for the increased
sightliness resulting therefrom is small compared with the loss in the
taste of the preparation. The simplest form of dishing is the best, and
fancifulness should not be indulged in, beyond the arrangement of the
vegetables in a pyramid, surrounded by a decorated border of jelly.
1997—SALADE ALLEMANDE
Take equal quantities of potatoes and apples, gherkins, and
herring-fillets, all cut into dice and arranged in heaps. Season with
hard-boiled egg sauce, and decorate with very red beetroot.
1998—SALADE AMÉRICAINE
Peel and press some tomatoes, and cut them into thin slices; cut some
potatoes into thin roundels, and prepare a short _julienne_ of celery.
Decorate with roundels of hard-boiled eggs and thin onion rings.
Season with oil and vinegar.
1999—SALADE ANDALOUSE
Peel and quarter some small tomatoes; cut some mild capsicums
_julienne_-fashion; cook some rice plainly in salted water, keeping
each grain separate; add a little crushed garlic and chopped onion and
parsley.
Season with oil and vinegar.
2000—SALADE BELLE-FERMIÈRE
This salad consists of curled celery and equal quantities of
plain-boiled potatoes, beetroot, and capsicum—all these vegetables
cut _julienne_-fashion, the celery measuring one-third, and the other
ingredients two-thirds of the whole.
Season with mustard sauce with cream.
2001—SALADE CRESSONNIÈRE
This consists of potatoes à la Parisienne (No. 2017) and watercress
leaves, in equal quantities. Sprinkle with parsley, chervil, and
hard-boiled egg, mixed.
2002—SALADE ISABELLE
Thinly slice equal quantities of raw mushrooms, celery, cooked
potatoes, and artichoke-bottoms. Dish in distinct heaps.
Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped chervil.
2003—SALADE DANICHEFF
Take equal quantities of sliced and _blanched_ celeriac, thin roundels
of potatoes, slices of artichoke-bottoms, strips of raw mushrooms, and
green asparagus-heads, and arrange them in heaps.
Deck with crayfishes’ tails, hard-boiled eggs, and truffles. Season
with mayonnaise sauce.
2004—SALADE DEMI-DEUIL
Take equal quantities of a _julienne_ of potatoes and a _julienne_
of very black truffles. Decorate with rings of truffle girding small
roundels of potato, and rings of potato girding small roundels of
truffle. Alternate the two forms of rings.
Season with a mustard sauce with cream.
2005—SALADE D’ESTRÉES
Take equal quantities of curled celery and a moderately small
_julienne_ of raw truffles. Season, when about to dish up, with a
mayonnaise sauce with mustard, slightly flavoured with cayenne.
2006—SALADE A LA FLAMANDE
This consists of a coarse _julienne_ of endives, a similar _julienne_
of potatoes, an onion baked in its skin, cooled, peeled, and chopped,
and some fillets of herring cut into dice, the quantities being in the
proportion of one-half of the whole for the endives, one-quarter of the
whole for the potatoes, and the remaining quarter for the onion and
fillets of herring.
Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley and chervil.
2007—SALADE FRANCILLON
Take some potato salad “à la Parisienne” (No. 2017), previously
_marinaded_ in Chablis wine, some mussels (cleared of their beards,
and poached with celery), and slices of very black truffle, the three
constituents being in the proportion of one-half, one-quarter, and
one-quarter respectively.
Set the potato salad on the bottom of the salad bowl, and lay thereon,
by way of decoration, the mussels and the truffles in alternate layers.
2008—SALADE ITALIENNE
Take equal quantities of carrots, turnips, potatoes, tomatoes, and
French beans—all cut into regular dice; also peas, small stoned olives,
capers, anchovy fillets in small dice, and herbs for the seasoning.
Use hard-boiled eggs for the decoration.
Season with mayonnaise sauce.
2009—JOCKEY-CLUB SALAD
Take equal quantities of asparagus-heads and a _julienne_ of raw
truffles; the two should be seasoned separately some time in advance.
Cohere, when about to dish, with a very little highly-seasoned
mayonnaise sauce.
2010—SALADE LACMÉ
Take equal quantities of red capsicums and tomato sauce; plain-boiled
rice, kept very white, and with each grain distinct; and _ciseled_,
washed, and pressed onion.
Season with oil and vinegar, and flavour with curry.
2011—SALADE DE LEGUMES
Take equal quantities of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a
grooved spoon-cutter; potato dice; French beans cut lozenge-form; peas;
small flageolets, and asparagus-heads; arrange them in distinct heaps,
and set a fine bunch of cauliflower in the middle.
Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley and chervil.
N.B.—For vegetable salad, use freshly-cooked and uncooled vegetables as
much as possible.
2012—SALADE LORETTE
Take equal quantities of corn salad, and a _julienne_ of beetroot and
celery. Season with oil and vinegar.
2013—SALADE MIGNON
Take equal quantities of shelled shrimps’ tails, artichoke-bottoms, cut
into dice, and very thin slices of black truffle arranged to form a
border. Season with highly-seasoned mayonnaise sauce with cream.
2014—SALADE MONTE-CRISTO
Take equal quantities of lobster-meat, cooked truffles, and potatoes
and hard-boiled eggs in dice, and arrange them in distinct heaps.
In their midst place the very white heart of a lettuce. Season with
mayonnaise sauce with mustard, and add some chopped tarragon.
2015—SALADE NIÇOISE
Take equal quantities of French beans, potato dice, and quartered
tomatoes. Decorate with capers, small, stoned olives, and anchovy
fillets.
Season with oil and vinegar.
2016—SALADE OPÉRA
Take equal quantities of white chicken meat, very red tongue,
celery-sticks cut _julienne_-fashion, and a _julienne_ of truffles.
Arrange these constituents in very regular heaps, and in the middle
of them set a heap of asparagus-heads. Decorate with a border
consisting of roundels of cocks’ kidneys and roundels of gherkins, laid
alternately.
Season with very thin mayonnaise sauce.
2017—SALADE PARISIENNE
_Clothe_ a Charlotte-mould with very clear jelly, and garnish its
bottom and sides with thin collops of spiny-lobster’s tail decked with
truffles. Fill the mould with a vegetable salad (No. 2011) combined
with a quarter of its volume of lobster or spiny-lobster remains, cut
into dice, and cohered by means of a cleared mayonnaise.
Leave to set in the cool, and, when about to serve, turn out on a
napkin.
2018—SALADE MASCOTTE
Take some green asparagus-heads, some hard-boiled lapwings’ eggs, some
sliced cocks’ kidneys, some slices of truffle, and some crayfishes’
tails.
Decorate according to fancy, making use of the ingredients of the salad
for the purpose.
Season with mustard sauce with cream.
2019—SALADE RACHEL
Take equal quantities of sticks of celery, raw artichoke-bottoms,
truffles, potatoes, and asparagus-heads, all, except the latter, being
cut _julienne_-fashion.
Slightly cohere the salad with mayonnaise sauce.
2020—SALADE RÉGENCE
Take equal quantities of sliced cocks’ kidneys, shavings of raw
truffles, asparagus-heads, and celery cut lengthwise into extremely
thin strips.
Season strongly with oil and lemon juice.
2021—SALADE RUSSE
Take equal quantities of carrots, potatoes, French beans, peas,
truffles, capers, gherkins, sliced and cooked mushrooms, lobster meat,
and lean ham—all cut _julienne_-fashion, and add some anchovy fillets.
Cohere the whole with mayonnaise sauce; dish, and decorate with some of
the ingredients of the salad, together with beetroot and caviare.
2022—SALADE SICILIENNE
Take equal quantities of celeriac, russet apples, tomatoes, and
artichoke-bottoms—all four cut into dice.
Season with oil and lemon juice.
2023—SALADE TREDERN
Take twenty-four crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque, and cut
lengthwise; twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards), poached in
lemon juice; and three tablespoonfuls of asparagus-heads. The three
constituents should have barely cooled. Complete with fine shavings of
raw truffles.
Season with condimented mayonnaise sauce, combined with a purée made
from the crayfishes’ carcasses, pounded with two tablespoonfuls of
fresh cream.
2024—SALADE DE TRUFFES
Cut some raw, peeled truffles into very thin shavings.
Season with a sauce consisting of hard-boiled egg-yolks, seasoned with
salt and freshly-ground pepper, and finished with oil and lemon juice.
2025—SALADE DE TRUFFES BLANCHES
Cut some raw, white, Piedmont truffles into thin shavings.
Season with a sauce consisting of hard-boiled egg-yolks seasoned with
salt and pepper, and finished with mustard, oil, and vinegar.
2026—SALADE VICTORIA
Take equal quantities of spiny-lobster trimmings, asparagus-heads,
truffles, and cucumbers—all cut into dice.
Season with a mayonnaise sauce, combined with the spiny-lobster’s
creamy parts and a purée of coral.
2027—SALADE WALDORF
Take equal quantities of russet apples and celeriac, both cut into
dice, and halved and peeled walnuts, soaked in fresh water for
one-quarter hour, and well drained.
Season with clear mayonnaise sauce.
CHAPTER XVIII
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS
The preparatory treatment of vegetables—parboiling and braising,
&c.—having been explained in Chapter X., as also the preparation of
purées, creams, and vegetable garnishes, it is now only necessary
to deal with each vegetable separately.
=Artichokes (Artichauts)=
2028—ARTICHAUTS A LA BARIGOULE
Take some very fresh and tender artichokes. After having trimmed
their tops, take off the outermost leaves; parboil the artichokes;
remove their hearts, and completely clear them of their chokes. Season
them inside, and fill them with a preparation of Duxelles (No. 224),
combined with a quarter of its weight of fresh, grated, fat bacon, and
as much butter.
Wrap the stuffed artichokes in thin slices of bacon; string them, and
set them in a saucepan prepared for braising. Braise them gently with
white wine, and cook them well.
When about to serve them, remove the string and the bacon, and dish
them.
Strain the braising-liquor, and clear it of grease; thicken it with the
necessary quantity of good half-glaze sauce; reduce it sufficiently
to produce only a very little sauce, and pour the latter over the
artichokes.
2029—CŒURS D’ARTICHAUTS A LA CLAMART
Select some very tender small artichokes, and trim them.
Set them in a buttered _cocotte_, with a small quartered carrot and
three tablespoonfuls of freshly-shelled peas to each artichoke, add a
large faggot and a little water, and salt moderately. Cover and cook
gently in a steamer. When about to serve, withdraw the faggot, and
slightly thicken the liquor with a little _manied_ butter.
Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_.
2030—ARTICHOKES WITH DIVERS SAUCES
Cut the artichokes evenly to within two-thirds of their height; trim
them all round; string them, and plunge them into slightly-salted
boiling water. Cook them rather quickly; drain them well, just before
serving them, and remove the string.
Dish on a napkin, and send a butter, a Hollandaise, or a mousseline
sauce, &c., at the same time.
When artichokes, cooked in this way, have to be served cold, remove
their chokes, dish them on a napkin, and send a Vinaigrette sauce
separately.
2031—ARTICHAUTS A LA PROVENÇALE
Select some very small Provençal artichokes; trim them, and put them in
an earthenware stewpan containing some very hot oil. Season with salt
and pepper; cover the stewpan, and leave to cook for about ten minutes.
Then add, for each twelve artichokes, one pint of very tender,
freshly-shelled peas, and a coarse _julienne_ of one lettuce.
Cover once more, and cook gently without moistening. The moisture of
the peas and the lettuce suffices for the moistening, provided the
stewpan be well covered and the fire be not too fierce—both of which
conditions are necessary to prevent evaporation on too large a scale.
2032—QUARTIERS D’ARTICHAUTS A L’ITALIENNE
Turn, trim, and quarter some fair-sized artichokes. Trim the quarters,
removing the chokes therefrom; rub them with a piece of lemon to
prevent their blackening; plunge them one by one into fresh water;
parboil and drain them. This done, set them in a sautépan on a litter
of aromatics, as for braising; make them sweat in the oven for seven or
eight minutes; moisten with white wine; reduce the latter; and moisten
again, to within half their height, with brown stock. Cook gently in
the oven until the quarters are very tender.
When about to serve, set them in a vegetable dish; strain the
cooking-liquor; clear it of grease, and reduce it; add an Italian sauce
to it, and pour this sauce over the quartered artichokes.
2033—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS FARCIS
Select some medium-sized artichokes; clear them of their leaves and
their chokes; trim their bottoms, rub them with lemon to prevent their
blackening, and cook them in a Blanc (No. 167), keeping them somewhat
firm.
After having drained them, stuff them with a little Duxelles, prepared
according to No. 224. Arrange them on a buttered dish; sprinkle the
Duxelles with fine raspings and a little melted butter, and set in a
hot oven for a _gratin_ to form.
Serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.
2034—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS A LA FLORENTINE
Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above.
Meanwhile fry a large, chopped onion in butter; add thereto
two-thirds lb. of parboiled and chopped spinach per twelve artichokes.
Stir over an open fire, that all moisture may evaporate, and add
salt and pepper, a piece of crushed garlic the size of a pea, a
tablespoonful of anchovy purée, and two tablespoonfuls of Velouté. Cook
gently for ten minutes.
Stuff the artichoke-bottoms with this preparation; arrange them on
a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with Gruyère, cut
_brunoise-fashion_, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.
Upon withdrawing the dish from the oven, sprinkle the artichoke-bottoms
with a few drops of melted anchovy butter.
2035—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS AUX POINTES D’ASPERGES
Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above; stew them in butter, and
garnish them with asparagus-heads, cohered with cream, and heaped in
pyramid-form.
Lay them on a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze
quickly.
2036—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS SAUTÉS
Remove the leaves and the chokes from the artichokes, trim the bottoms,
and slice them up raw. Season them with salt and pepper; toss them in
butter; set them in a vegetable-dish, and sprinkle them with herbs.
2037—PURÉE OU CRÈME D’ARTICHAUTS
Take some very tender artichokes; trim and turn the bottoms, and
half-cook them, keeping them very white. Complete their cooking in
butter, and rub them through a fine sieve, together with the butter
used in cooking.
Put the purée thus obtained in a saucepan, and add to it the half of
its bulk of mashed, very smooth, and creamy potatoes.
Finish the purée with a little fresh and a little hazel-nut butter, the
latter being used to increase the flavour of the artichokes.
2038—ASPARAGUS (Asperges)
The best-known varieties of asparagus in England are:—
1. The Lauris asparagus, which is par excellence the early-season kind.
2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the
most diminutive sticks, also called sprew, serve for garnishes.
3. The Argenteuil asparagus—very much in demand while it is in season.
4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but
inclined to be small. During the season there are, besides, several
other kinds of asparagus imported from Spain or France, which, though
not equal to the four kinds above mentioned, may nevertheless be used
for soups or garnishes instead of asparagus-heads or sprew.
Asparagus should be had as fresh as possible; it should be cleaned
with care, quickly washed, tied into faggots, and cooked in plenty of
salted water. Certain kinds, the flavour of which is somewhat bitter,
should be transferred to other water as soon as cooked, with the view
of reducing their bitterness.
Asparagus is dished on special silver drainers, or on napkins.
2039—ASPERGES A LA FLAMANDE
According to Flemish custom, asparagus is served with one hot,
hard-boiled half-egg, and one oz. of melted butter per person. The
egg-yolk is crushed, seasoned, and finished with the butter by the
consumers themselves. This accompaniment may also be prepared
beforehand and served in a sauceboat.
2040—ASPERGES AU GRATIN
Dish the asparagus in rows, and coat the heads of each row with a
little Mornay sauce. When all are dished, two-thirds cover the bunch
with a band of buttered paper, and coat the uncovered portion with
Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; glaze quickly at the
salamander, remove the paper, and serve at once.
2041—ASPERGES A LA MILANAISE
Having thoroughly drained the asparagus, set it on a long, buttered
dish sprinkled with grated Parmesan; arrange it in successive rows,
each of which sprinkle in the region of the heads with grated Parmesan.
When about to serve, cover the cheese-powdered parts copiously with
nut-brown butter, and set to glaze slightly at the salamander.
2042—ASPERGES A LA POLONAISE
Thoroughly drain the asparagus; set it on a long dish, in rows, and
besprinkle the heads with hard-boiled egg-yolk and chopped parsley,
mixed. When about to serve, cover the heads with nut-brown butter,
combined with one oz. of very fresh and fine bread-crumbs per four oz.
of butter.
2043—ASPARAGUS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES
Butter sauce, Hollandaise, _Mousseline_, and Maltese sauces are the
most usual adjuncts to asparagus. Béarnaise sauce without herbs is also
served occasionally, likewise melted butter.
When eaten cold, it may be served with oil and vinegar or a
mayonnaise—more particularly a Chantilly mayonnaise, _i.e._, one to
which beaten cream has been added.
2044—SPREW WITH BUTTER (Pointes d’Asperges)
Sprew or green asparagus is chiefly used for garnishing or as a
garnishing ingredient, but it may also be served as a vegetable with
perfect propriety. Cut the heads into two-inch lengths, and put them
together in faggots.
Cut what remains of them into bits the size of peas. After having
washed the latter, plunge them into boiling salted water, and cook them
quickly, that they may keep green.
This done, thoroughly drain them; let their moisture evaporate by
tossing them over the fire; cohere them with butter, away from the
fire, and dish them in a timbale with the faggots on top.
They are usually served in small patty crusts, or in small tartlet
crusts, with a few sprew tops on each small patty or tartlet.
2045—POINTES D’ASPERGES A LA CRÈME
Prepare them, and cook them in salted water as above.
Their cohesion with cream is in pursuance of the procedure common to
other vegetables similarly prepared, and they are served like those of
No. 2044.
=Egg-Plant (Aubergines)=
2046—AUBERGINES A L’ÉGYPTIENNE
Cut them into two lengthwise; trim them round the edges; _cisel_ the
middle of each with the view of facilitating the cooking process, and
cook them.
Drain them; remove the pulp from their insides, and set the shells on a
buttered _gratin_ dish.
This done, chop up the withdrawn pulp; add thereto a little chopped
onion cooked in oil, and the same quantity of very lean, chopped, and
cooked mutton as there is egg-plant pulp.
Fill the egg-plant shells with this preparation; sprinkle with a few
drops of oil, and set in the oven for fifteen minutes. On withdrawing
the dish from the oven, set on each egg-plant a few roundels of tomato,
tossed in oil; sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.
2047—AUBERGINES AU GRATIN
Fry the egg-plants as above; empty them, chop up their pulps, and add
to it an equal weight of dry Duxelles (No. 223). Garnish the shells
with this preparation, set them on a _gratin_ dish, sprinkle them with
raspings and a few drops of oil, and cause the _gratin_ to form.
Surround the egg-plants with a border of light half-glaze sauce when
serving.
2048—AUBERGINES FRITES
Cut the egg-plants into thin roundels; season and dredge them, and fry
them in smoking oil. Dish them on a napkin, and serve immediately, that
they may be eaten crisp. If they wait at all, they soften, and thereby
lose quality.
2049—AUBERGINES A LA PROVENÇALE
Proceed as for No. 2047, but replace the Duxelles by tomatoes tossed in
oil and flavoured with a little garlic.
Set the _gratin_ to form in the same way, and surround the egg-plants
with a border of tomato sauce when taking them out of the oven.
2050—AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES
Cut some fine egg-plants into two; _cisel_ them, and fry them in the
usual way; remove the pulp from their insides, and set the shells on
a buttered _gratin_ dish. Finely chop the withdrawn pulp, and mix
therewith an equal quantity of reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with
grated Parmesan.
Add some white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, allowing as much of it
as for an ordinary _soufflé_.
Garnish the egg-plant shells with this preparation, and cook in a
moderate oven, as for ordinary _soufflé_. On withdrawing the dish from
the oven, serve instantly.
2051—AUBERGINES A LA TURQUE
Peel the egg-plants and cut them, each lengthwise, into six slices.
Season, dredge, and fry these slices in oil; pair them off, and join
them together by means of a very firm preparation of raw egg-yolks and
grated, fresh cheese. When about to serve, dip them into batter, and
fry them in smoking oil.
Dish on a napkin with very green fried parsley.
These stuffed slices of egg-plant may be treated _à l’anglaise_ instead
of with batter.
2052—CARDOONS (Cardons)
_Treatment and Cooking Process._—After having suppressed the green
outside leaf-stalks, detach the white ones all round, and cut these
into three-inch lengths. Peel these lengths, rub them with lemon, that
they may not blacken, and throw them, one by one, into fresh acidulated
water.
Prepare the heart of the cardoon in the same way, after having
withdrawn the fibrous parts, and cook the whole in a Blanc (No. 167),
with one lb. of chopped veal fat, sprinkled over its surface, that the
cardoon may be kept from blackening by exposure to the air.
Cook gently for about one and one-half hours.
2053—CARDONS AU PARMESAN
After having well drained the sections, build them into a pyramid
in successive layers. Sprinkle each row with a few drops of good
half-glaze sauce, and with grated Parmesan. Cover the whole with the
same sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and set to glaze quickly.
2054—CARDONS A LA MORNAY
Proceed exactly as above, but replace half-glaze sauce by Mornay sauce.
Glaze quickly, and serve immediately.
2055—CARDONS A LA MILANAISE
Proceed as for “Asperges à la Milanaise” (No. 2041).
2056—CARDONS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES
They may be served either with gravy, or Half-glaze, Cream,
Hollandaise, _Mousseline_, Italienne, or Bordelaise sauces.
The sauce is either poured over them or served separately.
If the sauce be poured over the cardoons, they are dished in a timbale;
if the sauce be sent separately, they may be served on a silver
drainer, like asparagus.
2057—CARDONS A LA MOELLE
Dish the cardoons in a pyramid on a round dish; cover them with a
marrow sauce (No. 45), and surround them with very small puff-paste
patties garnished with poached marrow dice. Or dish the cardoons in a
timbale, and set thereon the heart cut into roundels and arranged in a
crown, with a slice of poached marrow on each roundel of heart.
Cover the whole with marrow sauce.
2058—CŒUR DE CARDON AUX FINES HERBES
Having cooked the heart of the cardoon, trim it all round so as to give
it the cylindrical shape, and cut it laterally into roundels one-third
inch thick.
Roll these roundels in some pale, thin, buttered meat glaze, combined
with chopped herbs. Prepared in this way, the heart of a cardoon
constitutes an excellent garnish for Tournedos and _sautéd_ chickens.
=Carrots (Carottes)=
2059—CAROTTES GLACÉES POUR GARNITURES
New carrots are not parboiled; they are turned, whole, halved, or
quartered, according to their size, and then trimmed. If old, they
should be turned to the shape of elongated olives, and parboiled before
being set to cook.
Put the carrots in a saucepan with enough water to cover them well,
one-half oz. of salt, one oz. of sugar, and two oz. of butter per pint
of water.
Cook until the water has almost entirely evaporated, so that the
reduction may have the consistence of a syrup. _Sauté_ the carrots in
this reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coat.
Whatever be the ultimate purpose for which the carrots are intended,
they should be prepared in this way.
2060—CAROTTES A LA CRÈME
Prepare the carrots as above, and, when the moistening is reduced to
the consistence of a syrup, cover them with boiling cream.
Sufficiently reduce the latter, and dish in a timbale.
2061—CAROTTES A LA VICHY
Slice the carrots, and, if they be old, parboil them.
Treat them exactly after the manner of the “Glazed Carrots” of
No. 2059; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped
parsley.
2062—PURÉE DE CAROTTES
Slice the carrots, and cook them in slightly-salted water, with sugar
and butter, as for “Glazed Carrots,” and a quarter of their weight of
rice. Drain them as soon as they are cooked; rub them through a fine
sieve; transfer the purée to a sautépan, and dry it over a fierce fire,
together with three oz. of butter per lb. of purée.
Now add a sufficient quantity of either milk or consommé to give it the
consistence of an ordinary purée. Dish in a timbale with triangular
_croûtons_ of bread-crumbs, fried in butter at the last moment.
This purée is very commonly served as a garnish with braised pieces of
veal.
2063—FLAN AUX CAROTTES
This is served either as a vegetable or a sweet.
Line a flawn ring with good, short paste (No. 2358); coat the inside of
the flawn with a round piece of paper, and fill it with rice or split
peas. Bake it without letting it brown; remove the split peas or the
rice, as also the paper, and garnish the flawn crust with a slightly
sugared purée of carrots. Cover this purée with half-discs of carrot
cooked as for No. 2059, and kept unbroken. Coat with the cooking-liquor
of the carrots reduced to a syrup, and put the flawn in the oven for
five minutes.
2064—CELERY (Céleri)
Celery for braising should be non-fibrous, white, and very tender.
Cut the sticks till they measure only eight inches from their roots;
remove the green leaves all round; trim the root; wash with great care,
parboil for one-quarter hour, and cool.
This done, braise them after recipe No. 275. When they are cooked, cut
each stick into three pieces, and double up each section before dishing
and serving.
2065—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF CELERY
The recipes given for cardoons may be applied to celery. On referring
to the respective recipes, therefore, celery may be prepared:—
_Au Parmesan_, _Sauce Mornay_, _à la Milanaise_, _Italienne_,
_Hollandaise_, with gravy, &c.
2066—PURÉE DE CÉLERI
Slice the celery; parboil it, and stew it, until it is quite cooked, in
a little very fat consommé.
Drain as soon as cooked; rub through a sieve, adding the while the
cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; thicken the purée with about one
quart of very white and firm potato purée; heat; add butter at the last
moment, and dish in a timbale.
2067—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE (Celeriac)
Peel the celeriac; cut it into sections, and cook it in salted water.
Drain and rub it through tammy, adding plain-boiled, quartered potatoes
the while in the proportion of one-third of the weight of the purée of
celeriac.
Put the purée in a sautépan; add to it three oz. of butter per lb.; dry
it over a fierce fire, and bring it to its normal consistence by means
of milk. When about to serve, add butter, away from the fire, and dish
in a timbale.
=Cèpes=
Those _cèpes_ which are barely opened or not opened at all are not
parboiled. Contrariwise, those which are open should be washed,
parboiled, and stewed in butter, after having been well dried.
2068—CÈPES A LA BORDELAISE
Collop the _cèpes_; season them with salt and pepper; put them into
very hot oil, and toss them until they are thoroughly frizzled.
Almost at the last moment add, per one-half lb. of _cèpes_, one oz.
of _cèpe_ stalks, which should have been put aside and chopped
up, one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, and a tablespoonful of
bread-crumbs—the object of which is to absorb any excess of oil, once
the _cèpes_ have been served.
Toss the whole together for a few minutes; dish in a timbale, and
complete with a few drops of lemon juice and some chopped parsley.
2069—CÈPES A LA CRÈME
Collop the _cèpes_, and stew them in butter with a dessertspoonful of
chopped onion per one-half lb. of _cèpes_; the onion should have been
cooked in butter, without colouration.
When they are stewed, drain them; cover them with boiling cream, and
boil gently until the latter is completely reduced. At the last moment
finish with a little thin cream, and dish in a timbale.
2070—CÈPES A LA PROVENÇALE
Proceed as for No. 2068, but substitute for the shallots some chopped
onion and a mite of crushed garlic.
Dish in a timbale, and complete with a few drops of lemon juice and
some chopped parsley.
2071—CÈPES A LA ROSSINI
Proceed as for No. 2069, and add to the _cèpes_ one-third of their
weight of thickly-sliced, raw truffles, stewed at the same time as the
former. When about to serve, finish with a little pale melted meat
glaze, and dish in a timbale.
=Mushrooms (Champignons)=
Cookery includes under this head only the white Parisian mushroom and
the meadow mushroom, which is the kind so commonly used in England.
The other kinds are always identified by special and proper terms.
2072—CHAMPIGNONS A LA CRÈME
Proceed as described under No. 2069.
2073—CHAMPIGNONS SAUTÉS
After having washed the mushrooms, dried, and _ciseled_ them, and
seasoned them with salt and pepper, toss them with butter in a
frying-pan over a fierce fire. Sprinkle them with chopped parsley at
the last moment, and dish them in a timbale.
2074—CHAMPIGNONS GRILLÉS
Take some large Parisian or meadow mushrooms. Carefully peel them;
season them; smear them with oil, by means of a brush, and grill them
gently.
Set them on a round dish, and garnish their midst with well-softened,
Maître-d’Hôtel butter.
2075—CHAMPIGNONS FARCIS
Select some fine, medium-sized mushrooms; suppress their stalks; wash
them, and dry them well. Set them on a dish; season them; sprinkle them
with a few drops of oil; put them in the oven for five minutes, and
garnish their midst with Duxelles (No. 224) shaped like a dome, and
thickened or not with bread-crumbs.
Sprinkle the surface with fine raspings and a few drops of oil or
melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a somewhat fierce oven.
2076—FLAN GRILLÉ AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Line a buttered flawn-mould with good lining paste (No. 2358).
Garnish it with very fresh and barely opened English mushrooms, tossed
in butter with a little chopped onion, cohered with cream, and cooled.
Moisten the edges of the flawn-mould, and deck it with criss-cross
strips of short paste, as for a latticed apple-flawn.
_Gild_ the lattice work; bake the flawn in a very hot oven, and serve
it the moment it is withdrawn.
2077—TARTELETTES GRILLÉES AUX CHAMPIGNONS
These tartlets constitute an excellent and beautiful garnish, more
particularly for Tournedos and Noisettes. Proceed exactly as for
No. 2076, but use tartlet moulds the size of which is determined by the
dimensions of the piece or preparation which they are to accompany.
2078—TURNED AND GROOVED MUSHROOMS FOR GARNISHING
Take some very fresh mushrooms; wash and drain them quickly.
Suppress their stalks flush with their heads; turn or groove the latter
with the point of a small knife, and throw them, one by one, into a
boiling liquor prepared as follows:—
For two lbs. of mushrooms, put one-sixth pint of water, one-third oz.
of salt, two oz. of butter, and the juice of one and one-half lemons,
in a saucepan. Boil; add the mushrooms, and cook for five minutes.
Transfer to a bowl immediately, and cover with a piece of buttered
paper.
2079—PURÉE DE CHAMPIGNONS
Clean, wash, and dry two lbs. of mushrooms. Quickly peel them, and rub
them through a sieve. Put this purée of raw mushrooms into a sautépan
with two-thirds pint of reduced Béchamel sauce, and one-sixth pint of
cream. Season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg; reduce over an open
fire for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz.
of best butter.
2080—MORELS (Morilles)
The Spring mushroom or Morel is the one most preferred by connoisseurs.
There are two kinds of morels—the pale and the brown kind—both
excellent, though some prefer the former to the latter, and vice versâ.
In spite of what connoisseurs may say regarding the error of washing
morels, I advocate the operation, and urge the reader to effect it
carefully, and without omitting to open out the alveolate parts, so as
to wash away any sand particles that may be lodged therein.
_The Cooking of Morels._—If they be small, leave them whole; if large,
halve or quarter them. After having properly drained them, put them in
a saucepan with two oz. of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of
salt and another of pepper per lb. of morels. Boil, and then stew for
ten or twelve minutes. Never forget that the vegetable juices produced
by the morels should be reduced and added to their accompanying sauce.
2081—MORILLES A LA CRÈME
Proceed as for _Cèpes_ and Mushrooms with Cream.
2082—MORILLES FARCIES
Select some large morels, and wash them well.
Suppress their stems; chop them up, and prepare them like a Duxelles
(No. 223).
Add to this Duxelles half of its bulk of very smooth sausage-meat.
Open the morels on one side; fill them with the prepared forcemeat, and
set them on a buttered dish, opened side nethermost.
Sprinkle with fine raspings, and use plenty of melted butter; cook for
twenty minutes in a moderate oven, and serve the dish as it stands.
2083—MORILLES A LA POULETTE
Cook them as described under No. 2080, and add them to a Poulette sauce
(No. 101), together with their cooking-liquor reduced.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
2084—MORILLES SAUTÉES
After having thoroughly washed the morels, dry them well in a towel,
and halve or quarter them according to their size.
Season them with salt and pepper, and _sauté_ them with butter in an
omelet-pan, over a sufficiently fierce fire, to avoid the exudation of
their vegetable moisture. Dish them in a timbale; squeeze a few drops
of lemon juice over them, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.
2085—TOURTE DE MORILLES
Cook the morels as explained under No. 2080, and drain them well.
Reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add to it two
tablespoonfuls of very thick cream and one oz. of butter per lb. of
morels.
Heat this sauce without boiling it, toss the morels in it, and set them
in a _tourte_ crust, or merely in the centre of a crown of puff-paste,
lying on a dish.
Morels prepared in this way may also be served in a Vol-au-vent crust
(No. 2390).
2086—MOUSSERONS, ORONGES, GIROLES
These varieties of esculent fungi are not much liked in England.
The best way to prepare them is to toss them quickly in butter.
2087—BRIONNE (Chow-chow)
This excellent vegetable, which has only become known quite recently,
is beginning to be appreciated by connoisseurs. It is in season from
the end of October to the end of March—that is to say, at a time when
cucumbers and vegetable marrows are over. It greatly resembles these
last-named vegetables, and is prepared like them, while the recipes
given for cardoons may also be applied to it.
2088—CHICORY, ENDIVE AND BELGIAN CHICORY (Chicorée Frisée, Escarole,
Endive)
Three kinds of chicory are used for cooking, viz:—
1. Curled chicory, improperly termed “Endive” in England.
2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state,
_i.e._, grown in the open air. It greatly resembles Escarole.
3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the
root of Flemish chicory in the dark.
This last kind is quite different from the first two, both with regard
to its quality and its culinary treatment, and it will be dealt with
later under the name of “Endive.”
2089—CHICORÉE A LA CRÈME
Parboil the chicory for ten minutes in plenty of boiling water. Cool
it; press the water out of it, and chop it up.
Cohere it with four and one-half oz. of pale roux per two lbs. of
chicory; moisten with one quart of consommé; season with salt and a
pinch of powdered sugar, and braise in the oven, under cover, for one
and one-half hours.
Upon withdrawing it from the oven, transfer it to another saucepan; add
three-fifths pint of cream and two oz. of butter, and dish in a timbale.
2090—PAIN DE CHICORÉE
Braise the chicory as described above.
Upon withdrawing it from the oven, mix with it (per lb.) five
stiffly-beaten eggs; put it into an even, buttered mould, and set to
poach in a _bain-marie_.
Before unmoulding the “loaf,” let it rest awhile, that the middle may
settle. Turn out just before serving, and cover with a cream sauce.
2091—PURÉE DE CHICORÉE
Braise the chicory, and rub it through a sieve. Mix it with one-third
of its bulk of smooth mashed potatoes with cream; heat; add butter away
from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
2092—SOUFFLÉ DE CHICORÉE
Braise about one-half lb. of chicory, keeping it somewhat stiff, and
rub it through a sieve. Add to it the yolks of three eggs, also two oz.
of grated Parmesan and the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff
froth.
Dish in a buttered timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and cook
after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_.
N.B.—This _soufflé_ of chicory may also be cooked in small cases, and
it makes an excellent garnish for large pieces of veal or ham.
2093—CHICORÉE A LA FLAMANDE
Cut the chicory into two-inch lengths; parboil it; cool it, and then
proceed for the rest of the operation as described under No. 2089—the
only difference being that it is not chopped.
2094—ENDIVES OR BRUSSELS CHICORY
Whatever be the purpose for which they are intended, endives should
always be cooked preparatively as follows:—
After having washed and cleaned them, put them in a well-tinned
saucepan containing (per three lbs. of endives) a liquor prepared from
the juice of a lemon, a pinch of salt, one oz. of butter, and one-fifth
pint of water. Cover the saucepan; boil quickly, and complete the
cooking on the side of the fire for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.
Endives may thus be served plain, and constitute a very favourite
vegetable or garnish. They may accompany all Relevés of butcher’s meat.
Some cardoon recipes may also be applied to them, more particularly _à
la Mornay_, _à la Crème_, and _à la Milanaise_—all of which suit them
admirably.
2095—CABBAGES (Choux)
From the culinary standpoint, cabbages may be divided into seven
classes, as follows:—
1. White cabbages: used almost solely in the preparation of sauerkraut.
2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a
condiment.
3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the
English method of cooking.
4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English
fashion.
5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly
used, but the leaves are cooked in the English way when they are tender.
6. Brussels sprouts.
7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the
leaves cooked in the English way, provided they be young and tender.
2096—WHITE CABBAGES (Choux Blancs)
In an extreme case, these cabbages may be braised like the green
Savoys, but they are usually too firm, and they are therefore only used
in the preparation of sauerkraut.
2097—SAUERKRAUT (Choucroûte)
If the sauerkraut be somewhat old, set it to soak in cold water for a
few hours. It is best, however, to avoid this measure, if possible, and
to use only fresh sauerkraut.
When about to cook it, drain it, if it has been soaked, and press
all the water out of it. Then pull it to pieces in such a way as to
leave no massed leaves; season it with salt and pepper, and put it
into a braising-pan lined with slices of bacon. Add, for ten lbs. of
sauerkraut, three quartered carrots, three medium-sized onions, each
stuck with a clove, a large faggot, three oz. of juniper berries and
one-half oz. of peppercorns contained in a canvas bag, six oz. of goose
dripping or lard, and one lb. of _blanched_ breast of bacon, the latter
to be withdrawn after one hour’s cooking.
Moisten, just enough to cover, with white consommé; cover with slices
of bacon; boil, and then cook in the oven for five hours with lid on.
_To serve Sauerkraut._—Withdraw the vegetables, the faggot, and the
juniper berries, and set the sauerkraut in a timbale, after having well
drained it.
Surround it with thin slices of ham, rectangles of bacon, and some
poached Frankfort or Strasburg sausages.
=Red Cabbages (Choux Rouges)=
2098—CHOUX ROUGES A LA FLAMANDE
Quarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the stumps,
and cut the trimmed leaves into a fine _julienne_. Season with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put this _julienne_ into
a well-buttered earthenware _cocotte_. Cover and cook in a moderate
oven.
When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and quartered
russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or powdered sugar.
Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to finish, and
that the only moistening should be the vinegar.
2099—MARINADED RED CABBAGES FOR HORS-D’ŒUVRE
Cut the cabbages into a small _julienne_ as above, and put them into a
bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and leave to macerate for
two days, stirring frequently the while.
Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves, peppercorns,
and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or the latter boiled and
cooled, and leave to _marinade_ for a day or two.
This _marinaded_ cabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled beef.
=Choux Verts Pommés (Savoy Cabbages)=
2100—BRAISED CABBAGE
Quarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it.
Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs
of the remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the
cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing
one quartered carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot,
two-thirds pint of consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per
two lbs. of cabbage. Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise
gently for two hours.
2101—CHOU A L’ANGLAISE
Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it,
between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.
2102—CHOU FARCI
Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool
it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert
between them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and
parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it
closely together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it
gently for three hours with stock and stock fat.
When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and
the slices of bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few
tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced,
and thickened with some half-glaze sauce.
Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.
N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the
cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff
rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat.
2103—SOU-FASSUM PROVENÇAL
Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves,
and set them on a net.
Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products, mixed:—
The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb.
of _ciseled_ and _blanched_ white of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs.
of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled;
one chopped onion, fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed
clove of garlic; three oz. of _blanched_ rice and four oz. of fresh,
young peas.
Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to
reconstruct the cabbage.
Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or
four hours.
Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.
2104—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_A_
Parboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove as many large
leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage required, and, if the
leaves be too small, use two for each ball.
Chop up the remains of the cabbage; season them with salt and pepper;
put a small portion of them on each of the leaves; close the latter in
the shape of balls, and set them one by one in a sautépan.
Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under “Braised Cabbage.”
2105—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_B_
Prepare the cabbage as above; insert into the centre of each ball a
portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and
braise in the same way.
2106—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_C_
Parboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accordance with
the number of balls required. Cool them; spread them out; garnish
the middle of each with one tablespoonful of pilaff rice, mixed with
foie-gras purée, and close up the leaves to form small packets.
Braise as in the case of No. 2104.
2107—SCOTCH KALE (Chou frisé), SPRING CABBAGE (Choux de Printemps),
BROCCOLI LEAVES, TURNIP-TOPS
These various kinds of greens are prepared in the English way, as
described above, or they may be prepared with butter, like Brussels
sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of preparation are the only ones
that suit them.
2108—CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI (Chou-fleur et Broccoli)
Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower and the
arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the broccoli the flower is
of a deep violet. English broccoli never reach the size of those grown
in the South of France.
Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers—the size of
hazel-nuts—are scattered among the interstices of the surrounding
leaves.
Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment.
2109—CHOU-FLEUR A LA CRÈME
Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are
attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.
Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the
cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and
serve a cream sauce separately.
2110—CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN
Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few
minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay
sauce into it.
Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the
cauliflower on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle
with grated cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and
set the _gratin_ to form.
2111—CHOU-FLEUR A LA MILANAISE
Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese.
Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter,
and set the _gratin_ to form.
On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with
nut-brown butter, and serve immediately.
2112—CHOU-FLEUR A LA POLONAISE
Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish.
Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley,
mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which
one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have
been fried.
2113—CAULIFLOWER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES
Cook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly, and set it
in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauceboat of _Melted
Butter_, _a Butter_, _a Hollandaise_, or _a Mousseline_ sauce, &c.
2114—PURÉE DE CHOU-FLEUR dite A LA DUBARRY
Cook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it through
tammy, and combine the resulting purée with one quarter of its bulk of
somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with cream. Heat; add butter away from
the fire, and dish in a timbale.
=Brussels Sprouts (Choux de Bruxelles)=
2115—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A L’ANGLAISE
Cook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them on a drainer
or in a timbale.
2116—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A LA CRÈME
Cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them; stew them in
butter, and chop them up. Then combine them with as much fresh cream as
possible.
2117—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES SAUTÉS
Cook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them, throw them into
an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter. Toss them until they are
nicely frizzled; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped
parsley.
2118—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AU BEURRE
Cook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without cooling them.
Put them into a sautépan; season them with salt and pepper; add two oz.
of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces; cover, and stew
in the oven for one-quarter hour.
2119—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES dite FLAMANDE
Three-parts cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them,
and complete their cooking by stewing them in butter. Rub them through
tammy, and add to the resulting purée one-third of its bulk of mashed
potatoes.
Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
2120—SEA KALE (Chou Marin)
This is one of the best and most delicate of English vegetables.
It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into bunches of
from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked in salted water.
All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may be applied to
sea kale.
2121—CUCUMBER AND VEGETABLE MARROW (Concombres et Courgettes)
Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of almost the
same treatment when they are cooked. They are especially used as
garnishes.
2122—CONCOMBRES A LA CRÈME
Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and
drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten
with boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At
the very last moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of
slightly thickening the preparation, and dish in a timbale.
2123—CONCOMBRES GLACÉS
After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil
them. This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,”
and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the
consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it.
2124—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_A_
Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them.
Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side
in a sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts
cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this
operation by means of a piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly
moulded in the cucumber cases.
Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the
forcemeat.
2125—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_B_
Peel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means
of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them.
Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken
forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its
weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one
against the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a
piece of muslin, and finally string them. This done, braise them in the
usual way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them
into roundels the thickness of which is determined by the size of the
piece of which they are the adjuncts.
2126—STACHYS (Crosnes du Japon)
Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned,
parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration.
2127—CROSNES A LA CRÈME
After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in
butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while
reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment,
and dish in a timbale.
2128—CROSNES SAUTÉS AU BEURRE
After having parboiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put them in an
omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce
fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle
moderately with chopped parsley.
2129—CROSNES AU VELOUTÉ
Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere
them with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom
essence.
2130—CROQUETTES DE CROSNES
Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm,
thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce,
in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this
preparation on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation
into portions weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls,
pears, quoits, or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in
very fine bread-crumbs.
Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before
serving; drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a
napkin with very green, fried parsley.
2131—PURÉE DE CROSNES
Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add
thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys.
As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub
them through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire.
Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper
consistence; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
2132—SPINACH (Épinards)
Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible.
After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water, cool it,
press out all its contained water, and, according to circumstances,
either chop it up or rub it through a sieve.
If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a
sieve, without either pressing or cooling it.
2133—ÉPINARDS A L’ANGLAISE
Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in
a timbale without cooling.
2134—ÉPINARDS A LA CRÈME
Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a
sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire.
Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently
for ten minutes.
Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with
fresh cream.
2135—ÉPINARDS AU GRATIN
Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in
the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese.
Set on a buttered _gratin_-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese
and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.
2136—ÉPINARDS A LA VIROFLAY
Spread some large leaves of _blanched_ spinach on a napkin, and in the
middle of each lay a _subric_, the substance of which should have been
combined with very small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb fried in butter.
Wrap the _subrics_ in the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce;
sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a
fierce oven.
2137—SUBRICS D’ÉPINARDS
Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of
spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel
sauce; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of
three, well beaten; salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an
omelet-pan.
Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and
let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the
butter. Proceed thus in the making of the _subrics_, and take care that
they do not touch. When a minute has elapsed, turn them over with a
spatula or a fork, that their other sides may colour.
Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately.
2138—CRÊPES AUX ÉPINARDS
Parboil some well-shredded spinach; dry it in butter; season it, and
add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste (No. 1943).
Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan or in deep
tartlet-moulds.
N.B.—These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent garnish for Relevés
of Beef, Veal, and Ham.
2139—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS
Make a composition after the directions given under No. 2092. Spread
this composition in two or three layers, and set on each of the latter
a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy fillets, arranged to form
a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach shaped like a dome, and set
thereon two crossed rows of anchovy fillets. Cook after the manner of
an ordinary _soufflé_.
2140—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS AUX TRUFFES
Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute anchovy
fillets for some fine slices of truffle.
N.B.—Both these spinach _soufflés_ may be served either as vegetables,
in which case they are moulded in large timbales, or as garnishes, when
they are dished in small _cassolettes_ of appropriate size.
They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied by watercress
_soufflé_—prepared in the same way.
2141—FEUILLES DE VIGNE FARCIES OU DOLMAS (Stuffed Vine Leaves)
Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in the
preparation of the following garnish:—Suppress their stalks; parboil
the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three or four at a time in the
form of a circular tray, in the centre of which lay a tablespoonful of
pilaff rice to which some foie-gras purée has been added. This done,
draw the ends of the leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to
form regular balls of equal size.
Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a sautépan, the
bottom of which should be garnished with slices of bacon; cover with
thin slices of bacon; moisten just enough to cover, with good consommé;
boil, and then braise gently.
2142—TUBEROUS FENNEL (Fenouil Tubéreux)
This vegetable is not very well known in England, where it is sold only
by the leading merchants of early-season vegetables. It is prepared
like the cardoons and the marrows.
2143—BROAD BEANS (Fèves)
Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and it is quite
the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water containing a bunch of
savory, the size of which should be in proportion to the quantity of
broad beans. When they are cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory
(chopped) to them.
2144—FÈVES AU BEURRE
Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce
fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with
three oz. of butter per lb. of beans.
2145—FÈVES A LA CRÈME
After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.)
with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.
2146—PURÉE DE FÈVES
Proceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very
delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham.
2147—GOMBOS
This vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely
used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known.
There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter
is also called _Bamia_ or _Bamiès_. Both kinds are prepared after the
same recipes.
2148—GOMBOS A LA CRÈME
After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them.
Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them
with a cream sauce.
2149—GOMBOS POUR GARNITURES
Parboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain them well,
and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of the piece they are
to accompany.
If they are to garnish a poulet _sauté_, complete their cooking in some
thin veal gravy.
2150—HOP SPROUTS (Jets de Houblon)
The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking off the ends
of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew. After having
washed them in several waters, cook them in salted water containing,
per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon.
Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velouté, &c. When
served as a vegetable, they are invariably accompanied by poached eggs,
which are laid in a crown round them and alternated by comb-shaped
_croûtons_ fried in butter.
=Haricot-Beans (Haricots Blancs)=
2151—HARICOTS BLANCS A L’AMÉRICAINE (Lima Beans)
Cook the beans as described under No. 274. But add to the prescribed
ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint of dry beans.
When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the bacon cut into
dice, and cohere them with some good tomato sauce.
2152—HARICOTS BLANCS AU BEURRE
Having well drained the haricot-beans, season them with salt and pepper
and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb. of cooked beans. Dish in
a timbale and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
2153—HARICOTS BLANCS A LA BRETONNE
Drain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in the
proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked haricot-beans.
Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley.
2154—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS dite SOISSONNAISE
Rub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burning-hot. Add
to the purée (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter; dry it over a very
fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to bring it to its proper
consistence.
2155—FLAGEOLETS (Haricots Flageolets)
These beans are used more especially fresh; but, when they are out of
season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried flageolets.
They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their purée, which
is very delicate, is known under the name of “Purée Musard,” and it is
particularly suitable for the garnishing of mutton. It is also used as
a thickening ingredient in the purée of French beans, and nothing can
equal it for the purpose; for, not only is it an unctuous thickening
medium, but its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into
relief of that of the French beans.
2156—RED BEANS (Haricots Rouges)
Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of lean bacon,
one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, and one
faggot per quart of beans. The bacon should be withdrawn as soon as
cooked. These beans are cohered by means of _manied_ butter, and they
are then mixed with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in
butter.
2157—FRENCH BEANS (Haricots Verts)
French beans are among the greatest vegetable delicacies; but they have
to be prepared with the utmost care.
Their quality is such that they are almost always good, in spite
of faulty preparation—so common in their case; but, when they are
cooked with care, no other vegetable can surpass them in perfection
of flavour. They should be taken quite fresh, and they should not be
cooked too long. They are best when they seem a little firm to the
teeth, without, of course, being in the least hard.
They must not be cooled when cooked; they should only be _sautéd_ over
the fire with the view of causing the evaporation of their moisture.
After having seasoned them with salt and pepper, add to them (per lb.)
about three oz. of very fresh butter, cut into small pieces; _sauté_
them so as to effect their leason, and straightway serve them.
Do not add chopped parsley to French beans, unless it be very tender
and gathered and chopped at the last moment.
2158—HARICOTS PANACHÉS
This consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quantities,
cohered with butter.
2159—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS
Cook the French beans in salted water; drain them well, and stew them
in butter for eight or ten minutes. Rub them through a fine sieve, and
mix the resulting purée with half its bulk of very creamy, flageolet
purée.
=Lettuces (Laitues)=
2160—LAITUES BRAISÉES AU JUS
After having parboiled, cooled, and pressed the water out of them, tie
them together in twos or threes, and braise them as directed under
No. 275. This done, cut them in two, unfold the end of each half, and
set them on a dish, in the form of a crown; alternating them with
heart-shaped _croûtons_ fried in butter. Or, merely dish them in a
timbale.
Coat them with the reduced braising-liquor combined with some thickened
veal gravy.
N.B.—Braised lettuces may also be stuffed after the manner described
under No. 2106.
2161—LAITUES A LA MOELLE
Braise and dish the lettuces as above.
Upon the turban of lettuces, set a crown of large slices of poached
marrow, and coat with a moderately thick buttered gravy.
2162—LAITUES FARCIES
Parboil, cool, and press the lettuces.
This done, open them in the middle without touching their stems, and
garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with half its bulk of dry
Duxelles (No. 223). Reconstruct the lettuces; string them; braise them,
and dish them as directed under No. 2160.
2163—LAITUES FARCIES POUR GARNITURE
Proceed as directed under Nos. 2104 to 2106.
2164—LAITUES A LA CRÈME
Proceed as directed under No. 2089.
2165—SOUFFLÉ DE LAITUES
Proceed as directed under No. 2139.
=Lentils (Lentilles)=
Lentils are cooked as directed under the “preparation of dry
vegetables” (No. 274).
2166—LENTILLES AU BEURRE
Carefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over the fire,
and cohere them with butter in the proportion of two oz. of the latter
per lb. of lentils.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley.
2167—PURÉE DE LENTILLES
Proceed as for the purée of haricot-beans.
2168—VÉRONIQUE (Laver)
As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets, it is only
necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to it, when heating it, to
make a properly consistent purée.
2169—MAIZE (Maïs)
Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and cook it
either in steam or salted water; taking care to retain the leaves on
the ears. When cooked, the leaves are drawn back so as to represent
stalks, and the ears are bared if they be served whole. This done, set
the ears on a napkin, and send a hors-d’œuvre dish of fresh butter to
the table with them.
If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the oven,
and, when they have swollen and are of a golden colour, withdraw the
grains and set the latter on a napkin. Sometimes, too, the ears are
served whole.
When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are separated from
the stalk and cohered with butter or cream, exactly like peas.
Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be found on the
market.
2170—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS A LA CRÈME
Cook the maize in water or steam; rub it quickly through tammy; put it
into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and quickly dry it.
This done, add sufficient fresh cream to this purée to make a somewhat
soft paste. Thicken this paste with the yolks of three eggs, per lb. of
purée, and combine it with the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff
froth. Mould and cook after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_.
2171—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS AU PAPRIKA
Before rubbing the maize through a sieve, add to it two tablespoonfuls
of chopped onion fried in butter, and a large pinch of paprika per lb.
of maize. Proceed for the rest of the operation as in the case of
No. 2170.
N.B.—These two _soufflés_ are served as a garnish and may be cooked
either in a timbale or in small _cassolettes_. They constitute
excellent adjuncts to large, poached fowls.
2172—CHESTNUTS (Marrons)
Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the nuts, and put
them in the oven for from seven to eight minutes, on a tray containing
a little water, that they may be shelled with ease.
Or, split them open in the same way; put them in small quantities at a
time in a frying-basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Peel them
while they are still quite hot.
2173—STEWED CHESTNUTS
As soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consommé to just cover
them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of chestnuts.
If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey, keep them
somewhat firm.
2174—BRAISED AND GLAZED CHESTNUTS
Take some very large chestnuts, and dip them in hot fat in order to
peel them. Then set them in one layer, one against the other in a
sautépan. If they were heaped, only a poor result could be obtained.
Moisten them, just enough to cover, with strong veal stock, and stir
them as little as possible while they are cooking, so as to avoid
breaking them.
When they are three-parts cooked, reduce the moistening, and gently
roll the chestnuts in the glaze resulting from this reduction, that
they may be covered with a brilliant coating.
Chestnuts prepared in this way serve more particularly as a garnish.
2175—PURÉE DE MARRONS
Having thoroughly peeled the chestnuts, cook them in white consommé,
with a celery stalk as in the case of No. 2173, and one-half oz. of
sugar per lb. of chestnuts. Continue cooking until they may be easily
crushed; rub them through tammy, and treat the purée as directed in the
case of the preceding ones.
2176—TURNIPS (Navets)
Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are prepared
like carrots. They may, therefore, either be served glazed, or “à la
Crème,” &c.
They may also be served stuffed, after the following recipes:—
2177—STUFFED TURNIPS.—_A_
Take some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size. Peel
them, and, in so doing, shape them nicely; then, by means of a round
fancy-cutter, cut them deeply at their base, pressing the instrument
into the pulp.
This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them.
With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a purée, to which add an equal
quantity of mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with this purée, and
shape the visible portion of the latter dome-fashion.
Set the stuffed turnips in a sautépan, and complete their cooking in
butter, taking care to baste them frequently.
2178—STUFFED TURNIPS.—_B_
Prepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a preparation of
semolina cooked in consommé and combined with grated Parmesan.
Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe.
N.B.—Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed with spinach,
chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or rice, kept very
creamy. All these garnishes are at once sightly and excellent.
2179—PURÉE DE NAVETS (Turnip Purée)
Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar, and
the necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and thicken the
resulting purée with only just the required quantity of very good
mashed potatoes.
2180—TURNIP-TOPS
Young turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a luncheon
vegetable. They should be prepared like “Choux verts cooked _à
l’anglaise_.”
=Onions (Oignons)=
2181—STUFFED ONIONS
Take some medium-sized, mild, Spanish onions; cut them at a point
one-quarter of their height from the top, and parboil them thoroughly.
Empty them, leaving only a wall one-third in. thick; chop up the
withdrawn parts, and mix them with an equal quantity of Duxelles
(No. 225).
Garnish the emptied onions with this preparation; complete their
cooking by braising them, and glaze them at the last moment,
simultaneously with the formation of the _gratin_.
N.B.—Proceed in the same way for onions stuffed with spinach, Rizotto,
or semolina, &c., as suggested under Nos. 2177 and 2178.
Onions may also be garnished with a _soufflé_ preparation of spinach,
tomatoes, chicory, &c. Herein lies scope for a great variety of
excellent and uncommon garnishes.
2182—FRIED ONIONS
Cut them into roundels one-fifth in. thick; separate the rings; season
them with salt and pepper; dredge them and fry them in very hot oil.
Drain on a piece of linen and salt slightly.
Onions prepared in this way are used particularly as an accompaniment.
2183—GLAZED ONIONS
_For the preparation without colouration_: Peel some small onions of
equal size without grazing them. Set them to cook in enough white
consommé to almost cover them, and two oz. of butter per pint of
consommé.
At the last moment roll them in their cooking-liquor, reduced to a
glaze.
_For the preparation with colouration_: Cook the onions very gently in
butter, with a pinch of powdered sugar, so that the cooking and the
colouring may be effected together.
2184—PURÉE D’OIGNONS, dite SOUBISE
See No. 104, in the chapter on sauces.
2185—SORREL (Oseille)
Having shredded the sorrel and washed it in several waters, set it to
cook gently in a little water. This done, thoroughly drain it on a
sieve and mix it with a pale roux, consisting of two oz. of butter and
one oz. of flour. Add one and one-quarter pints of consommé, salt, and
a pinch of sugar to it, and braise it in the oven for two hours.
Then rub it through tammy; thicken it with the yolks of six eggs
or three whole eggs beaten to a stiff froth and strained through a
strainer. Heat, and finish with one-sixth pint of cream and five oz. of
butter.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with strong, veal stock.
2186—OXALIS
Cook this in boiling salted water after having well cleaned and washed
it. It may then be prepared “à la Crème,” stuffed, or “au Gratin.”
Oxalis purée is called Purée Brésilienne, and is prepared in the same
way as turnip purée.
2187—SWEET POTATOES
Sweet potatoes are generally served, baked in their skins, and
accompanied by fresh butter. They may also be prepared according to the
majority of potato-recipes, especially the following:—
_Sautées_, _Gratinées_, _Mashed_, _Duchesse_, &c.
They may also be fried; but, in that case, they should be served the
moment they are ready, for they soften very quickly.
Finally, they may be prepared soufflé-fashion, after the directions
given under “Soufflé de Pommes de Terre.”
2188—PEAS (Petits Pois)
Whatever be the treatment to which peas are to be subjected, always
take them very green and freshly gathered, and shell them only at the
last minute. Peas are one of the vegetables most prone to lose their
quality through want of care. If prepared with pains, the delicacy of
their flavour is incomparable; but the slightest neglect on the part of
the operator renders them savourless and commonplace.
2189—PETITS POIS A L’ANGLAISE
Cook them quickly in salted boiling water; drain them, and dry them by
tossing them over a fierce fire. Dish them in a timbale, and serve some
pats of very fresh butter separately.
2190—PETITS POIS AU BEURRE
As soon as the peas are cooked, drain them and toss them over a fierce
fire, to dry. Then season them with a pinch of powdered sugar, and
cohere them, away from the fire, with butter, in the proportion of
three oz. per pint of peas.
2191—PETITS POIS A LA BONNE-FEMME
Fry twelve oz. of small onions and four oz. of breast of bacon, cut
into dice and _blanched_ in butter; add one-half oz. of flour to the
latter; cook the roux for a moment; moisten with one-half pint of
consommé and boil.
Put one quart of freshly-shelled peas into this sauce; add the onions
and the bacon, together with a bunch of parsley; and cook, reducing the
sauce to half in so doing.
2192—PETITS POIS A LA FLAMANDE
Prepare one-half lb. of new carrots as though they were to be glazed.
When half-cooked, add two-thirds pint of freshly-shelled peas to them.
Complete the cooking of the two vegetables together, and, at the last
moment, add butter away from the fire.
2193—PETITS POIS A LA FRANÇAISE
Take a saucepan, of a size a little larger than would be necessary
to just hold the following products, and put into it one quart of
freshly-shelled peas; a faggot containing the heart of a lettuce, two
sprays of parsley, and two of chervil; twelve small onions, four oz. of
butter, one-third oz. of salt, and two-thirds oz. of loaf-sugar. Mix
the whole together until it forms a compact mass, and place in the cool
until ready for cooking. Add three tablespoonfuls of water, when about
to cook the peas, and cook gently with lid on.
When about to serve, withdraw the faggot; _cisel_ the lettuce; add it
to the peas, and cohere the whole with butter, away from the fire.
N.B.—Raw, _ciseled_ lettuce may be added to the peas; but, as various
tastes must be allowed for, it is better to insert the lettuce whole,
and to mix it with the peas afterwards, if it be so desired. The
lettuce may also be quartered and laid on the peas without being mixed
with them.
2194—PETITS POIS A LA MENTHE
Cook the peas in salted water, together with a bunch of fresh mint.
Then prepare them in the English way or “au Beurre,” and lay a few
parboiled mint leaves upon them when serving.
2195—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, dite SAINT-GERMAIN
Cook the peas with just enough boiling water to cover them, and season
it with one-half oz. of salt, and one-sixth oz. of sugar per quart.
Add a lettuce and a few parsley leaves (tied together). When the peas
are cooked, drain them; and reduce their cooking-liquor while they are
being rubbed through a sieve.
Work the purée with four oz. of fresh butter per quart, and finally add
to it the cooking-liquor, reduced almost to a glaze.
2196—MOULDED PEASE PURÉE FOR GARNISH
Prepare the purée as above; but keep it a little creamier. Mix with
it, per quart, two whole eggs and the yolks of three, beaten and
strained through muslin. With this preparation, fill some _dariole_-
or _baba_-moulds, according to the piece for which the timbales
are intended, and poach them in a _bain-marie_ for from twenty to
twenty-five minutes.
Remember to let them stand for five minutes before unmoulding them.
N.B.—Timbales of haricot-beans, flageolets, or lentil purée, are
prepared similarly.
2197—CAPSICUM OR PIMENTOS (Poivrons doux)
The capsicums used in cookery are of various kinds: the Chilian and
Cayenne kinds (Chili and Cayenne peppers) which have a strong, burning
taste, are only used as condiments.
The large or mild capsicums, green, red, or yellow, are used more
particularly as garnishes. Although the difference in their colouration
is accompanied by a difference of quality, they are not easily
distinguished in this respect; and, although the large, red Spanish
capsicums are the best, the other varieties may be treated in the same
way as the former.
Whatever be the kind of capsicums used, either grill or scald them in
order to skin them, and clear them of their seeds. According to the
purpose they are intended for, they are either cut up or left whole.
2198—PIMENTOS FARCIS
For this purpose take some small, green, carrot-shaped capsicums.
Remove their stems, after having skinned them; empty them, and
half-fill them with half-cooked, pilaff rice.
Then set them in a sautépan, and carefully braise them with excellent
stock.
2199—CAPSICUMS FOR GARNISHING
For this purpose, the large red, Spanish capsicums are best.
Braise them when they are peeled, and, when cooked, cut them up as the
requirements may suggest.
2200—PURÉE DE PIMENTOS
Braise some large, red capsicums, with two-thirds of their weight of
rice. When the whole is well cooked, rub it through a sieve, and add
butter to the extent of two oz. per quart of the preparation.
N.B.—This purée is particularly well suited to poached fowls and white
meats, and it is well to keep it thin.
2201—POTATOES (Pommes de Terre)
Ordinary potatoes are rarely of good quality in England, and they do
not lend themselves as well as certain Continental varieties do to the
various culinary uses to which this valuable tuber may be put.
The very best kinds of potato are almost unknown in England, and the
Dutch and Vitelotte potatoes have to be imported.
2202—POMMES DE TERRE A L’ANGLAISE
Turn the potatoes to the shape of large garlic cloves, and cook them in
salted water or steam. They accompany more especially boiled fish.
The English method is to cook them without salt.
2203—POMMES DE TERRE ANNA
Cut them to the shape of cylinders; slice these into thin roundels;
wash them, and dry them in a piece of linen.
Set these roundels in circles on the bottom of the mould proper to this
potato preparation, or in a well-buttered thick-bottomed sautépan; let
them overlap one another, and let the lay of each circle be reversed.
Season; spread a coat of butter upon the first layer, and proceed in
the same way with a second layer.
Make five or six layers in this way, seasoning and spreading butter
over each.
Cover the utensil; cook in a good oven for thirty minutes; turn the
whole over, if necessary, to equalise the colouring; turn out upon a
saucepan-lid, to drain away the butter, and then tilt the whole on to a
dish.
2204—POMMES ANNA FOR GARNISHING
Either _dariole_- or _baba_-moulds may be used for this purpose; but
they should be tinned copper ones if possible. After having thoroughly
buttered them, garnish them with thin roundels of potato, cut to the
diameter of the moulds, seasoned, and set one upon the other. Set the
moulds on a tray containing enough very hot fat to reach half-way up to
their brims, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes.
Turn out just before serving.
2205—POMMES DE TERRE BERNY
Add chopped truffles to some “Croquette” paste (No. 219), in the
proportion of two oz. of the former to one lb. of the latter; and
divide up this preparation into two-oz. portions. Mould these to shapes
resembling apricots; dip them in beaten eggs (No. 174), and roll them
in almonds cut into the thinnest possible splinters. Plunge the potato
balls into hot fat five or six minutes before serving.
2206—POMMES DE TERRE A LA BOULANGÈRE
This preparation has been given in various recipes (see No. 1307).
2207—POMMES DE TERRE BYRON
Prepare the required amount of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228), and cook in
butter in a small frying-pan. Dish; sprinkle copiously with cream and
grated cheese, and set to glaze quickly.
2208—POMMES DE TERRE CHÂTEAU
Turn them to the shape of large olives; season them; cook them gently
in clarified butter, that they may be golden and very soft; and, just
before serving, sprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley.
2209—POMMES DE TERRE A LA CRÈME
Vitelotte or new kidney potatoes are needed for this preparation.
Cook them in salted water; peel them as soon as this is done, and cut
them into rather thick roundels. Put them in a sautépan; moisten,
enough to cover them, with boiling cream; season, and reduce the cream.
At the last moment, finish with raw cream.
2210—CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE
Prepare the necessary quantity of “Croquette” paste (No. 219), and
divide it into two-oz. portions. Roll these to the shape of corks or
pears; treat them _à l’anglaise_, and put them into very hot fat, five
or six minutes before serving.
2211—CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINE
Take the required amount of “Pommes Dauphine” preparation (No. 220);
divide it into two-oz. portions; mould these to the shape of corks;
treat them _à l’anglaise_, and fry them like ordinary _croquettes_.
2212—POMMES DE TERRE A LA DUCHESSE
Use the same preparation as for No. 2210. Mould the portions to the
shape of small cottage-brioches, _galettes_ or small loaves, or shape
them by means of the piping-bag. Arrange them on a buttered tray;
_gild_ them with beaten egg, and colour them in a fierce oven for seven
or eight minutes before serving them.
2213—POMMES DE TERRE DUCHESSE AU CHESTER
Use the same preparation as for No. 2210, and combine it with two oz.
of grated Chester per lb. Mould it to the shape of very small
_galettes_; set these portions on a buttered tray; _gild_ them with
beaten eggs; cover each with a thin slice of Chester, and set them in
the oven for seven or eight minutes before serving.
2214—POMMES DE TERRE FONDANTES
Cut the potatoes to the shape of large, elongated olives, and let each
weigh about three oz. Gently cook them in butter, in a sautépan, and
take care to turn them over.
When they are cooked, withdraw them, so as to slightly flatten them
with a fork without breaking them. Drain away their butter; return
them to the sautépan with three oz. of fresh butter per every two lbs.
of their weight, and cook them with lid on until they have entirely
absorbed the butter.
2215—POMMES DE TERRE EN ALLUMETTES
Trim the potatoes square, and then cut them into small rods, of
one-fifth in. sides. Put them in hot fat, and let them dry well before
draining them.
2216—POMMES DE TERRE CHATOUILLARD
Trim the potatoes, and cut them into long even ribbons one-eighth in.
thick. Treat these ribbons like “Pommes soufflées” (see No. 2221).
2217—CHIPPED POTATOES
Cut the potatoes into thin roundels, by means of a special plane; put
them into cold water for ten minutes; drain them; dry them in linen,
and fry them, keeping them very crisp. Serve them cold or hot, with
game roasted in the English way.
2218—POMMES DE TERRE COLLERETTE
Turn the potatoes to the shape of corks, and cut them with a special
knife which grooves them. Treat them like chipped potatoes.
2219—POMMES DE TERRE PAILLES
Cut the potatoes into a long, thin _julienne_; wash them and thoroughly
dry them on a piece of linen.
Put them into hot fat; and, at the end of a few minutes, drain them
in a frying-basket. Just before serving them, plunge them afresh into
smoking fat, that they may be very crisp; drain them on a piece of
linen, and salt them moderately.
2220—POMMES DE TERRE PONT-NEUF
Trim the potatoes square, and cut them into rods of half-inch sides.
Plunge them into hot fat, and leave them there until they are crisp
outside and creamy in.
This preparation represents the generic type of fried potatoes.
2221—POMMES DE TERRE SOUFFLÉES
Trim the potatoes square, and carefully cut them into slices one-eighth
inch thick. Wash them in cold water; thoroughly dry them, and put them
into moderately hot fat. As soon as the potatoes are in it, gradually
heat the fat until they are cooked—which they are known to be when they
rise to the surface of the frying fat.
Drain them in the frying-basket, and at once immerse them in fresh and
hotter fat. This final immersion effects the puffing, which results
from the sudden contact with intense heat.
Leave the potatoes to dry; drain them on a stretched piece of linen;
salt them moderately, and dish them.
2222—GRATIN DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINOISE
Finely slice two lbs. of fair-sized Dutch potatoes. Put them in a
basin, and add thereto salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, one beaten egg,
one and one-half pints of boiled milk, and four oz. of fresh, grated
Gruyère.
Thoroughly mix up the whole.
Pour this preparation into earthenware dishes, rubbed with garlic and
well buttered; copiously sprinkle with grated Gruyère; add a few pieces
of butter, and cook in a moderate oven for from forty to forty-five
minutes.
2223—POMMES DE TERRE A LA HONGROISE
Fry four oz. of chopped onion in butter, together with a coffeespoonful
of paprika. Add two peeled, pressed, and sliced tomatoes; two lbs. of
potatoes, cut into somewhat thick roundels, and moisten, just enough
to cover, with consommé. Cook, while almost entirely reducing the
moistening, and sprinkle with chopped parsley at the last moment.
2224—POMMES DE TERRE GRATINÉES
This preparation may be made in two ways as follows:—
(1) Make a smooth potato purée; this done, put it into a deep, buttered
_gratin_-dish; smooth its surface; sprinkle the latter with grated
cheese mixed with fine raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set the
_gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.
(2) Bake some fine, well-washed, Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon
as they are cooked, open them lengthwise; withdraw their pulp; rub the
latter through a sieve while it is still quite hot, and finish it after
the manner of an ordinary purée.
Fill the half-shells with purée; sprinkle the latter with grated cheese
and raspings; lay the half-shells on a tray, and set the _gratin_ to
form as above.
On taking the potatoes out of the oven, dish them on a napkin, and
serve them immediately.
2225—POMMES DE TERRE AU LARD
Frizzle in butter one-half lb. of breast of salted pork, cut into
dice and _blanched_, and twelve small onions. Drain the bacon and the
onions; mix one oz. of flour with the butter; brown for a few minutes,
and moisten with one and one-quarter pints of consommé. Season with
a pinch of pepper, and add two lbs. of medium-sized, quartered and
well-trimmed potatoes, the bacon and the onions, and a faggot. Cover
and cook gently.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley.
2226—POMMES DE TERRE LORETTE
Add some grated cheese to the preparation for “Pommes Dauphine,” in the
proportion of one oz. of the former per lb. of the latter.
Divide up this mixture into one and one-half oz. portions; mould these
to the shape of crescents, and dredge them moderately.
Plunge these crescents into very hot fat about six minutes before
serving.
2227—POMMES DE TERRE A LA LYONNAISE
Cut some peeled and plain-boiled potatoes into roundels, and toss
these in butter in a frying-pan. Likewise toss some sliced onions in
butter, the quantity of the former measuring one-fourth of that of the
potatoes. When the onions are of a nice golden colour, add them to
the _sautéd_ potatoes; season with salt and pepper; _sauté_ the two
products together for a few minutes, that they may mix thoroughly, and
dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley.
2228—POMMES DE TERRE MACAIRE
Bake some Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon as they are done, empty
them and collect their pulp on a dish; season it with salt and pepper,
and work it with a fork; adding to it, the while, one and one-half oz.
of butter per lb.
Spread this preparation in the form of a _galette_ on the bottom of an
omelet-pan containing some very hot, clarified butter, and brown it
well on both sides.
2229—POMMES DE TERRE MAIRE
Prepare these exactly like “Pommes à la Crème.”
2230—POMMES DE TERRE A LA MAÎTRE-D’HÔTEL
Cook some medium-sized Dutch potatoes in salted water; peel them; cut
them into roundels while they are still quite hot, and cover them with
boiling milk.
Season them with salt and white pepper; completely reduce the milk, and
dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley.
2231—POMMES DE TERRE MARQUISE
Mix some very reduced and very red tomato purée with the preparation
for “Pommes Duchesse,” in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls of the
former per lb. of the latter.
Set this preparation on buttered trays (by means of a piping-bag fitted
with a large, grooved pipe) in shapes resembling half-eggs.
_Gild_ them slightly with beaten eggs, and set them in a somewhat hot
oven seven or eight minutes before serving.
2232—POMMES DE TERRE A LA MENTHE
Cook some fair-sized new potatoes in the English way, and add a bunch
of mint to them. Dish them in a timbale, and set a mint-leaf (from the
bunch) upon each potato.
2233—POMMES DE TERRE MIREILLE
Cut some medium-sized, raw potatoes into roundels. Season them and
_sauté_ them in butter. When they are ready, add to them, per lb.,
four oz. of sliced artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, and one and
one-half oz. of truffle slices.
_Sauté_ the whole so as to ensure a complete mixture, and dish in a
timbale.
2234—POMMES DE TERRE MIRETTE
Cut some raw potatoes into a _julienne_ one-eighth inch wide, and cook
them in butter, keeping them very creamy. Add to them, per lb., two oz.
of a _julienne_ of truffles and three tablespoonfuls of melted meat
glaze.
Mix; dish in a timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted
butter, and set to glaze quickly.
2235—POMMES DE TERRE MOUSSELINE
Prepare a flawn-crust, baked without colouration.
Meanwhile, bake a few Dutch potatoes in the oven; withdraw their pulp;
season it with salt and white pepper, and work it over the fire with
four oz. of butter and the yolks of two eggs per lb. of its weight. Add
one-sixth pint of whisked cream, and set the preparation in the crust,
shaping it like a dome. Decorate by means of a piping-bag, fitted with
a grooved pipe, with some of the preparation which should have been put
aside; sprinkle with melted butter, and set to glaze quickly.
2236—POMMES DE TERRE NOISETTES
Cut the potatoes, by means of a round spoon-cutter, into pieces the
size of hazel-nuts. Season and cook them in butter, and take care to
keep them nicely golden and creamy.
2237—POMMES DE TERRE PARISIENNE
Prepare some “Pommes Noisettes” as above; but cut them a little
smaller. When they are cooked, roll them in melted meat glaze, and
sprinkle them with chopped parsley.
2238—POMMES DE TERRE PARMESANE
Proceed as directed under “Pommes au Chester” (No. 2213), but
substitute Parmesan for the latter.
2239—POMMES DE TERRE PERSILLEES
Cook the potatoes in the English way, that is to say, boil them
plainly; drain them well, and roll them in melted butter and chopped
parsley.
2240—POMMES DE TERRE ROBERT
Prepare a composition of “Pomme Macaire,” and add thereto, per lb.,
three eggs and a large pinch of chopped chives. Cook in the frying-pan
as for “Pomme Macaire.”
2241—POMMES DE TERRE A LA ROXELANE
Bake six fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Withdraw the pulp from their
insides, and work it, together with one-third lb. of butter and four
egg-yolks, and enough fresh cream to thin it. Complete with the whites
of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.
Set this preparation in small timbales, made from brioches the knobs
of which have been removed, and the under halves of which have been
emptied of all crumb. Sprinkle with chopped truffle, and bake in a mild
oven as for a _soufflé_.
2242—POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAVOYARDE
Proceed as for No. 2222; but replace the milk by some consommé.
2243—POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAINT-FLORENTIN
Prepare some “Pommes Croquettes” paste (No. 219). Combine therewith
(per lb.) two oz. of chopped, lean ham. Roll the portions into the
shape of corks; dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in vermicelli.
This done, flatten so as to give them a rectangular shape, and fry them
in very hot fat.
2244—POMMES DE TERRE SCHNEIDER
Proceed as directed under No. 2230; but for the milk substitute some
consommé. Reduce in the same way, and finish with butter, melted meat
glaze, and chopped parsley.
2245—POMMES DE TERRE SUZETTE
Peel some fine, Dutch potatoes, and turn them to the shape of eggs. Cut
them flat at one end that they may stand upright, and bake them on a
tray in the oven.
Open them like a boiled egg; put aside the pieces thus cut off, and
withdraw the pulp from their insides. Season this pulp, and work it;
adding to it the while, per lb., two oz. of butter, two egg-yolks, a
few tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and a little _salpicon_ of the white
of a chicken, tongue, truffles, and mushrooms. Fill the potato-shells
with this preparation; readjust the covers, and set them in the oven
for ten minutes.
On withdrawing them from the oven, set the potatoes on a dish, and
glaze them with melted butter.
2246—POMMES DE TERRE VOISIN
Prepare these exactly like “Pommes Anna,” but sprinkle each layer of
potato-roundels with grated cheese. The cooking is the same.
2247—POMMES NANA (For Garnishing)
Cut the potatoes into a _julienne_; season them, and mould them by
heaping them into well-buttered, _dariole_-moulds. Cook them, like
“Pommes Anna” (for garnishing), on a tray containing some very hot fat.
On taking them out of the oven, turn them out and sprinkle them with
Château sauce.
2248—MASHED POTATOES
Peel and quarter some Dutch potatoes, and quickly cook them in salted
water. When they feel soft to the touch, drain them; rub them through a
sieve, and work the purée vigorously with three oz. of butter per lb.
of potatoes. Then add, little by little, about one-half pint of boiling
milk, in order to bring the purée to the required consistence. Heat
without boiling, and serve.
Remember that mashed potatoes should be only just cooked, and that if
they be allowed to wait they lose all their quality.
2249—QUENELLES DE POMMES DE TERRE
Prepare a composition as for “Pommes Duchesse,” and add thereto (per
two lbs.) three whole eggs and one-third lb. of flour. Divide up the
preparation into one and one-half oz. portions; mould these to the
shape of corks or quoits, or mould them by means of a spoon, and set
them in a buttered sautépan. Poach them in salted water; drain them;
set them on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese; dredge with
grated cheese; sprinkle with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to
form.
On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the quenelles with
nut-brown butter.
2250—SOUFFLÉ DE POMMES DE TERRE
Prepare a pint of mashed potatoes with cream; add thereto the raw
yolks of three eggs and their whites beaten to a stiff froth. Set in a
buttered _soufflé_ saucepan, or in small porcelain cases, and cook like
an ordinary _soufflé_.
=Rice (Riz)=
2251—RIZ AU BLANC (For Fowls and Eggs)
Wash one-half lb. of Carolina rice; put it into a saucepan; cover it
with plenty of cold water; salt it, and parboil it for one-quarter hour.
This done, drain it and put it into a sautépan with two and
one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces. Mix with a fork; cover,
and place in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes.
2252—RIZ AU GRAS
Parboil one-half lb. of Carolina rice; drain it; fry it in butter, and
moisten it with twice as much white and rather fat consommé as would be
needed just to cover it. Set to boil, and then cook it gently in the
oven for fifteen minutes.
2253—RIZ A LA GRECQUE
Prepare some “Pilaff” rice. Add to it, per lb. of its weight one
half-onion, chopped and fried in butter, together with two oz. of fat
sausage-meat, divided into small portions, and two oz. of _ciseled_
lettuce; cook the whole, and complete with one-quarter pint of peas,
cooked “à la Française,” and one and one-half oz. of red capsicums cut
into dice.
This garnish is mixed with the rice seven or eight minutes before
serving.
2254—RIZ A L’INDIENNE
Parboil one-half lb. of Patna rice in salted water, for fifteen
minutes; stirring it from time to time the while.
Drain it; wash it in several cold waters; lay it on a napkin, and
set the latter on a tray or on a sieve. Dry for fifteen minutes in a
steamer or in a very moderate oven.
2255—RIZ PILAFF
Fry one chopped half-onion and one-half lb. of Carolina rice in two oz.
of butter. Stir over the fire, until the rice is well affected all
over; moisten with one quart of white consommé; cover, and cook in a
moderate oven for eighteen minutes. Transfer it to another saucepan as
soon as it is cooked.
2256—PILAFF RICE (For the Stuffing of Fowls)
Pilaff rice is frequently used in stuffing fowls.
For this purpose, when it is cooked, it is combined (per quart) with
a little cream, four oz. of foie-gras dice, and as much truffle, also
in dice. The rice should only be three-parts cooked for stuffings; for
it completes its cooking inside the bird. For this reason the cream is
added, that the rice may absorb it while its cooking is being completed.
2257—RIZ PILAFF A LA TURQUE
Prepare some pilaff rice as directed under No. 2255, and, while it is
cooking, add to it enough saffron to make it of a nice, golden colour.
When cooked, add four oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes to it.
2258—RIZOTTO A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Fry a medium-sized onion in butter, and add to it one-half lb. of
Piedmont rice. Put the rice on the side of the stove; add some saffron
to it and stir it until it is well saturated with butter. Moisten the
rice with about one quart of consommé per lb. The consommé should be
added to the rice in seven or eight instalments, and as fast as it
becomes absorbed, a fresh supply should be forthcoming. When adding the
liquor, stir the rice with a wooden spoon.
Cook the rice under cover, and, to the resulting preparation, which
should thus be creamy, add a few pieces of fresh butter and some grated
Parmesan.
The dish may be finished, either with shavings of white truffles or ham
cut into dice.
2259—SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT (Salsifis)
There are two kinds of salsify:—the white and the black, which is also
called “viper’s grass.”
After having carefully scraped and washed it, cook it in a _blanc_. The
same preparations suit the two kinds.
2260—FRIED SALSIFY
After having thoroughly drained it, cut it into three and one-half
lengths, and put these on a dish.
Season with salt and pepper; add lemon juice, a few drops of oil, some
chopped parsley, and leave to _marinade_ for from twenty-five to thirty
minutes, taking care to toss the salsify from time to time. This done,
drain the lengths of salsify, dip them in some thin batter; plunge them
in very hot fat, and drain them when the batter is quite dry. Dish them
on a napkin with fried parsley.
N.B.—It is not absolutely necessary to _marinade_ salsify; the question
is one of taste.
2261—SALSIFIS SAUTÉ
Cut it into two-inch lengths; dry them very well, and toss these in
butter in an omelet-pan, until they are of a nice golden colour.
Season, and dish in a timbale with fried parsley.
2262—SALSIFIS A LA CRÈME
Proceed as directed in the case of other vegetables prepared in this
way.
=Tomatoes=
2263—GRILLED TOMATOES
Take some whole tomatoes, if possible; oil them copiously, and grill
them gently.
2264—TOMATES FARCIES
If the tomatoes to be stuffed be large, cut them in two laterally; if
they be medium-sized or small, a lateral slice cut from their stem-ends
is sufficient. In any case, press them slightly in order to exude their
juice and seeds; season them inside with salt and pepper; set them on
an oiled tray, and half-cook them in the oven.
Finally, stuff them as their designation on the menu requires.
2265—TOMATES FARCIES AU GRATIN
Having prepared the tomatoes as above, stuff them with somewhat stiff
Duxelles; sprinkle with raspings and a few drops of oil, and set the
_gratin_ to form in a hot oven.
On taking the dish out of the oven, surround the tomatoes with a thread
of clear _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce.
2266—TOMATES FARCIES A LA PROVENÇALE
Prepare the tomatoes as follows:—Cut them in two; remove their seeds;
season them, and place them, cut side undermost, in an omelet-pan
containing very hot oil. Turn them over when they are half-cooked;
cook them for a little while longer; lay them on a _gratin_-dish, and
stuff them with the following preparation:—For six tomatoes, fry two
tablespoonfuls of chopped onion in oil; add four peeled, pressed, and
_concassed_ tomatoes, a pinch of chopped parsley, and a crushed clove
of garlic, and cook under cover for twelve minutes. Complete with four
tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, soaked in consommé and rubbed through
a sieve; two anchovies also rubbed through a sieve, and finish with
some somewhat fat, braised-beef gravy. When the tomatoes are stuffed,
sprinkle them with bread-crumbs combined with grated cheese; sprinkle
with oil, and set the _gratin_ to form.
These tomatoes may be served either hot or cold.
2267—TOMATES FARCIES A LA PORTUGAISE
Stuff the tomatoes with pilaff rice combined with a quarter of its
volume of _concassed_ tomatoes. Dish this rice in the shape of a
regular dome, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley.
N.B.—In addition to the above recipes, tomatoes prepared as already
directed may also be garnished with minced chicken or lamb meat, or
with scrambled eggs, sprinkled with grated Parmesan, and then set to
glaze at the salamander.
2268—TOMATES SAUTÉES A LA PROVENÇALE
Having halved, pressed, and seasoned the tomatoes, put them, cut side
undermost, in an omelet-pan containing very hot oil. Turn them over
when they are half-cooked, and sprinkle them with a little chopped
parsley, together with a mite of garlic, and some bread-crumbs. Place
them in a moderate oven in order to finish their cooking, and dish the
tomatoes the moment they are withdrawn from the oven.
2269—PURÉE DE TOMATES
See Tomato Sauce (No. 29).
2270—SOUFFLÉ DE TOMATES A LA NAPOLITAINE
Prepare one-half pint of very reduced tomato purée, and combine
therewith two oz. of grated Parmesan, two tablespoonfuls of very stiff
Béchamel sauce, and the yolks of three eggs.
Add the three whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and spread the
preparation in layers in a buttered, _soufflé_ timbale; setting upon
each layer a litter of freshly-cooked macaroni, cohered with butter and
grated Parmesan. Cook like an ordinary _soufflé_.
=Jerusalem Artichokes (Topinambours)=
2271—TOPINAMBOURS A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the Jerusalem artichokes to the shape of large olives, and gently
cook them in butter, without colouration. Season them, and cohere them
with a little thin Béchamel sauce.
2272—TOPINAMBOURS FRITS
Peel and cut the Jerusalem artichokes into thick slices. Cook these in
butter; dip them in batter, and fry them at the last moment.
2273—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOURS
Peel, slice, and cook the Jerusalem artichokes in butter. Rub them
through a sieve, and work the purée over the fire, with two oz. of
butter per lb. Add enough mashed potatoes to thicken the preparation,
and complete with a few tablespoonfuls of boiling milk.
2274—SOUFFLÉ DE TOPINAMBOURS
Proceed as for No. 2250.
=Truffles (Truffes)=
Truffles are used especially as a garnish; but they may also be served
as a vegetable or a hors-d’œuvre.
When so served, they should be prepared very simply; for they require
no refining treatment to make them perfect.
2275—TRUFFES SOUS LA CENDRE
Take some large truffles, and clean them well. Season them with salt
and pepper and a few drops of liqueur brandy; completely enclose them
in a layer of patty paste, and bake them in the oven from twenty-five
to thirty minutes.
Serve them in their case of paste.
2276—TRUFFES AU CHAMPAGNE
Take some fine, well-cleaned truffles; season them, and cook them, with
lid on, in champagne.
This done, set them in a timbale, or in small silver saucepans.
Almost completely reduce the champagne; add thereto a little thin,
strong, veal stock; strain the whole through muslin; pour it over the
truffles, and place these on the side of the stove for ten minutes
without allowing the stock to boil.
2277—TRUFFES A LA CRÈME
Cut one lb. of raw, peeled truffles into thick slices. Season them with
salt and pepper, and cook them very gently in two oz. of butter and a
few drops of burnt liqueur brandy.
Reduce to a stiff consistence one-half pint of cream with three
tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce; add some truffle cooking-liquor and
the necessary quantity of cream; complete with two oz. of best butter;
mix the truffles with this sauce, and serve in a vol-au-vent crust.
2278—TRUFFES A LA SERVIETTE
Under this head are served “Truffes au Champagne,” the recipe for which
is given above, but the champagne should be replaced by Madeira.
Dish them in a timbale, set in a napkin folded to represent an
artichoke. But it would be very much more reasonable to serve “Truffes
à la cendre” under this head, serving them under a folded napkin, as
for “Pommes de terre en robe de chambre” (potatoes in their skins).
2279—TIMBALE DE TRUFFES
Line a buttered timbale mould with ordinary patty paste.
Garnish its bottom and sides with slices of bacon, and fill up the
mould with raw, peeled truffles, seasoned with salt and pepper.
Add a glassful of Madeira, two tablespoonfuls of pale chicken or veal
glaze; cover with a slice of bacon, and close up the timbale, in the
usual way, with a layer of paste.
_Gild_ with beaten eggs, and bake in a hot oven for fifty minutes. When
about to serve, turn out and dish on a napkin.
=Farinaceous Products=
2280—GNOCHI AU GRATIN
Prepare a “pâte à choux” after recipe No. 2374, from the following
ingredients:—one pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and a little nutmeg,
four oz. of butter, two-thirds lb. of flour, and six eggs. When the
paste is ready, combine with it four oz. of grated Parmesan. Divide
this paste into portions the size of walnuts; drop them into boiling,
salted water, and poach them.
As soon as the gnochi rise to the surface of the water, and seem
resilient to the touch, drain them on a piece of linen.
Coat the bottom of a _gratin_-dish with Mornay sauce; set the gnochi
upon the latter; cover them with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated
cheese and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a moderate
oven for from fifteen to twenty minutes.
2281—GNOCHI A LA ROMAINE
Scatter two-thirds lb. of semolina over a quart of boiling milk. Season
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook gently for twenty minutes. Take
the utensil off the fire; thicken the semolina with the yolks of two
eggs, and spread it on a moistened tray, in a layer one-half in. thick.
When it is quite cold stamp it out with a round cutter, two in. in
diameter. Set the gnochi in shallow, buttered timbales; sprinkle with
grated Gruyère and Parmesan, and with a little melted butter, and set
the _gratin_ to form.
2282—GNOCHI DE POMMES DE TERRE
Cook two lbs. of potatoes in the English way. Drain them as soon as
they are cooked, and work the purée, while it is very hot, with one and
one-half oz. of butter, two small eggs, two egg-yolks, one-third lb.
of flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Divide up this preparation into
portions the size of walnuts; roll them into balls; press upon them
lightly with a fork to give them a criss-cross pattern, and poach them
in boiling water.
Drain them on a piece of linen; dish them in layers, sprinkling some
grated cheese between each layer; sprinkle some grated cheese over the
top surface; bedew liberally with melted butter, and set the _gratin_
to form in a hot oven.
2283—NOQUES AU PARMESAN
Put into a previously-heated basin one-half lb. of _manied_ butter, and
work the latter with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; adding to it, little by
little, two eggs and two well-beaten egg-yolks, five oz. of flour, and
the white of an egg, also beaten to a stiff froth.
Divide up the preparation into portions the size of hazel-nuts; drop
these portions into a sautépan of boiling, salted water, and let them
poach.
Drain the noques on a piece of linen; dish them in a timbale; sprinkle
them copiously with grated cheese and with nut-brown butter.
2284—MACARONI
Under this head are included all tubular pastes from Spaghetti, the
size of which is not larger than thick vermicelli, to canneloni, the
bore of which is one-half in. in diameter.
All these pastes are cooked in boiling water, salted to the extent
of one-third oz. per quart. Macaroni, like other pastes of a similar
nature, should not be cooled.
The most one can do, if the cooking has to be stopped at a given
moment, is to pour a little cold water into the saucepan and then to
take it off the fire.
2285—MACARONI A L’ITALIENNE
Cook the macaroni in boiling water; completely drain it; put it into a
sautépan, and toss it over the fire to dry.
Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg; cohere it with five oz. of
grated Gruyère and Parmesan, in equal quantities, and two oz. of
butter, cut into small pieces, per lb. of macaroni. _Sauté_ the whole
well to ensure the leason, and dish in a timbale.
2286—MACARONI AU GRATIN
Prepare the macaroni after No. 2285, adding to it a little Béchamel
sauce; and set it on a buttered _gratin_-dish, besprinkled with grated
cheese. Sprinkle the surface of the preparation with grated cheese and
raspings, mixed, and with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form
in a fierce oven.
2287—MACARONI AU JUS
Parboil the macaroni in salted water, keeping it somewhat firm: drain
it, cut it into short lengths, and simmer it in beef braising-liquor,
until the macaroni has almost entirely absorbed the latter.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of the same
liquor.
2288—MACARONI A LA NANTUA
Having cooked, drained and dried the macaroni, cohere it with crayfish
cream, and mix therewith twenty-four crayfishes’ tails per lb. of
macaroni.
Dish in a timbale, and cover the macaroni with a _julienne_ of very
black truffles.
2289—MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE
Prepare a beef estouffade with red wine and tomatoes; cook it for from
ten to twelve hours, that it may be reduced to a purée.
Rub this estouffade through a sieve and put it aside.
Parboil some thick macaroni, keeping it somewhat firm; drain it; cut it
into short lengths, and cohere it with butter.
Sprinkle the bottom of a timbale with grated cheese; cover with a
layer of estouffade purée; spread a layer of macaroni upon the latter,
and proceed in the same order until the timbale is full. Serve the
preparation as it stands.
2290—MACARONI AUX TRUFFES BLANCHES
Prepare the macaroni as directed under No. 2285, and add to it six oz.
of white Piedmont truffles (cut into thin shavings), per lb. of
macaroni.
Leave the preparation covered for five minutes and dish in a timbale.
2291—NOODLES (Nouilles)
These are generally bought ready-made. If one wish to prepare them
oneself, the constituents of the paste are:—one lb. of flour,
one-half oz. of salt, three whole eggs, and five egg-yolks. Moisten as
for an ordinary paste, roll it out twice on a board, and leave it to
stand for one or two hours before cutting it up.
All macaroni recipes may be applied to noodles.
For “Nouilles à l’Alsacienne,” it is usual, when the preparation is
ready in the timbale, to distribute over it a few raw noodles _sautéd_
in butter and kept very crisp.
=Kache=
Kache is not a vegetable; but since this preparation has appeared
either as a constituent or an accompaniment of certain Russian dishes
which occur in this work, I am obliged to refer to it.
2292—KACHE DE SEMOULE POUR COULIBIAC
Take some coarse, yellow semolina, and scatter it over three times its
bulk of boiling consommé. Cook it gently for twenty-five minutes; drain
it on a sieve; spread it on a tray, and place it in a moderate oven to
dry. This done, rub it lightly through a coarse sieve with the view of
separating the grains, and put it aside in the dry until wanted.
2293—KACHE DE SARRASIN POUR POTAGES
Moisten one lb. of _concassed_ buckwheat with enough tepid water to
make a stiff paste; add the necessary salt, and put this paste in a
large Charlotte-mould. Bake in a hot oven for two hours. Then remove
the thick crust which has formed upon the preparation, and transfer
what remains, by means of a spoon, to a basin. Mix therewith two oz.
of butter while it is still hot.
Kache prepared in this way may be served in a special timbale. But it
is more often spread in a thin layer on a buttered tray, and left to
cool.
It is then cut into roundels one in. in diameter, and these are rolled
in flour and coloured on both sides in very hot, clarified butter.
2294—POLENTA
In a quart of boiling water containing one-half oz. of salt, immerse
two-thirds lb. of maize flour, stirring the while with a spoon, that
the two may mix. Cook for twenty-five minutes; add two oz. of butter
and two and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan. If the Polenta be prepared
for a vegetable or a garnish, it is spread in a thin layer on a
moistened tray. When cold, it is cut into roundels or lozenges, which
are first browned in butter, dished, and then sprinkled with grated
cheese and nut-brown butter.
2295—SOUFFLÉ PIÉMONTAIS
Boil one pint of milk with one-fifth oz. of salt; sprinkle on it
two oz. of maize flour; mix well; cover, and cook in a mild oven for
twenty-five minutes.
Then transfer the paste to another saucepan; work it with one and
one-half oz. of butter and as much grated Parmesan; mix therewith one
egg, two egg-yolks, and the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff
froth.
Dish in a buttered timbale; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook like
an ordinary _soufflé_.
2295a—SOUFFLÉ AU PARMESAN
Mix one lb. of flour and two and one-half pints of milk in a saucepan.
Add a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and set the preparation to boil,
stirring it constantly the while.
As soon as the boil is reached, take the saucepan off the fire, and add
one lb. of grated Parmesan, three oz. of butter, and ten egg-yolks. Rub
the whole through tammy and then combine with it the whites of ten eggs
whisked to a stiff froth.
Mould in a silver timbale, lined with a band of buttered paper, and
bake in the oven for from twenty to twenty-five minutes.
2296—RAVIOLI
Whatever be their garnish, _ravioli_ are always prepared in the same
way. The stuffings given below represent the most usual forms of
garnish.
STUFFING A
Mix one-half lb. of finely-chopped, cooked chicken-meat; five oz. of
cooked and crushed brains; three oz. of pressed white cheese; three oz.
of chopped, pressed and _blanched_ spinach; three oz. of parboiled
green borage; a pinch of green sweet basil; five oz. of grated
Parmesan; two eggs; two egg-yolks; salt, pepper and nutmeg.
STUFFING B
Mix two-thirds lb. of well-cooked, cold and finely-chopped daube of
beef; two-thirds lb. of parboiled, pressed, and chopped spinach;
one oz. of chopped shallots; five oz. of a purée of cooked brain; two
whole eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
STUFFING C
Toss one-half lb. of chickens’ livers in butter; add to it two chopped
shallots, a pinch of parsley, and a little crushed garlic. Finely pound
the livers, and add successively one-half lb. of parboiled, cooled and
fresh spinach; two anchovy fillets; three oz. of butter; three eggs,
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sweet basil. Rub the whole through
a sieve.
2297—THE PREPARATION OF RAVIOLI
They may be made in various shapes as follows:—
(1) Roll a piece of noodle paste to a thin layer and stamp it out
with a grooved cutter, two and one-half in. in diameter. Moisten the
edges of each roundel of paste; garnish the centre of each with a ball
of one of the above stuffings, the size of a hazel-nut, and fold in
slipper-form.
(2) Roll the paste into a rectangle of four-in. sides; garnish with
stuffing, leaving a gap between the portions of the latter; moisten the
edges of the paste, and close up by drawing these together. Finally
stamp out with a grooved, crescent-shaped fancy-cutter.
(3) Prepare a square layer of paste; garnish it with lines consisting
of portions of paste; leave a space of two in. between the lines.
Moisten; cover with a second layer of paste, of the same dimensions as
the first, and divide up, by means of the roulette, into squares of
two-in. sides. Whatever be the shape of the _ravioli_, plunge them into
a saucepan of slightly salted boiling water; poach them for from eight
to ten minutes, and drain them.
Set them on a buttered _gratin_-dish, sprinkled with grated cheese;
sprinkle them with good beef gravy; then again with grated cheese, and
set the _gratin_ to form. Or, dish the _ravioli_ in layers, sprinkling
each layer with grated cheese and gravy. Complete with some grated
cheese, and set the _gratin_ to form in the usual way.
N.B.—The _ravioli_ may also be served, merely sprinkled with grated
cheese and nut-brown butter.
CHAPTER XIX
SAVOURIES
2298—REMARKS UPON SAVOURIES
I have already expressed my opinion in regard to Savouries. I consider
their use opposed to gastronomical principles, and that they have no
_raison d’être_ on a good menu. But, not wishing to seem didactic, I
shall give, hereafter, a few savoury recipes, selected from among those
which are gastronomically the best, and which custom has sanctified.
I resolved to make these recipes appear after the Vegetables and before
the Ices, because I deem that Dessert alone is admissible after the
Entremets and Ices.
There is much in common between Hors-d’œuvres and Savouries. Many
of the former, the recipes for which I have given, may appear as
Savouries, once their seasoning has been intensified. Among the latter
class may be quoted the various Tartlets (No. 387, &c.); the Barquettes
(No. 314); Frivolities (No. 350); Éclairs à la Karoly (No. 344);
Allumettes aux Anchois (No. 300); City Toasts (No. 320), &c.
2299—ALLUMETTES
Prepare a ribbon of puff-paste three inches wide by one-fifth inch
thick, leaving the length to come as it will. Spread on it some very
reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with two tablespoonfuls of grated
Gruyère cheese per one-half pint, and season with cayenne. Sprinkle the
surface with grated Parmesan; press the latter into the sauce by means
of the flat of a knife; cut into rectangles one inch wide; set these on
a slightly-moistened tray, and bake them in a moderate oven for twelve
minutes.
2300—BEIGNETS SOUFFLÉS WITH CHEESE
Prepare some ordinary “pâte à choux” without sugar (No. 2375), and
combine it, per lb., with five oz. of a _Brunoise_ of Gruyère.
Divide up this paste into portions the size of hazel-nut, and fry them
in fat like other Beignets _soufflés_.
2301—BEURRECKS A LA TURQUE
Reduce the required amount of Béchamel sauce to a thick consistence;
mix it with an equal quantity of Gruyère dice; season with cayenne, and
spread the preparation on a dish to cool.
Then divide it up into portions the size of fine walnuts; shape these
like cigars, wrap each portion in a very thin layer of noodle paste;
treat them _à l’anglaise_, and fry them at the last moment in very hot
fat.
2302—CHOUX AU FROMAGE
By means of a piping-bag, form some “choux,” a little larger than the
Saint-Honoré ones, from ordinary paste (see No. 2375). _Gild_ them with
beaten eggs; bake them in a moderate oven, and keep them dry. When
cold, cut them at the top; garnish them with “_Fondue au fromage_”
seasoned with cayenne, and complete with some Chantilly cream, combined
with grated Parmesan; this should be laid on by means of a piping-bag,
as in the case of “choux à la crème.”
2303—CAMEMBERT FRIT
Clear the cheese of its crust, and cut it into elongated lozenges.
Sprinkle the latter with cayenne, treat them twice _à l’anglaise_, and
fry them at the last moment in hot fat.
2304—CANAPES OR TOAST
These are nothing more than pieces of toast, _i.e._, slices of bread,
trimmed according to fancy, grilled, buttered, and garnished in some
way.
As the garnishes for toast are innumerable, I shall quote only a few
typical examples.
_Canapés Garnished with Scrambled Eggs._—Set the scrambled eggs in
domes upon the Canapés; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and set to glaze
quickly.
_Or_ arrange the scrambled eggs as above, and cover them with a lattice
of anchovy fillets.
_Canapés de Haddock._—Cook the haddock; rub it through a sieve; add a
little butter and Béchamel sauce to the resulting purée, and set the
latter in domes on the toast.
_For Variety._—Sprinkle the purée with grated Parmesan, and set to
glaze.
_Or_ garnish the purée with oysters poached in a little Worcestershire
sauce.
_Or again_: cover the purée with a lattice of anchovy fillets.
_Canapés with Kippers or Bloaters._—Grill them and make a purée from
them like the haddock.
_Canapés with Halved or Filleted Anchovies._—In the case of fillets,
set them to form a grill upon the toast; if the anchovies be halved,
lay them lengthwise on the toast.
_Canapés with Sardines in Oil._—Clear the fish of their skins and
bones, and set the fillets on the canapés.
_Canapés with Grilled Sprats._—Proceed as for sardines.
_Canapés of Salmon._—Toast may be garnished with thin slices of smoked
or fresh salmon, or with the latter prepared in a purée like the
haddock.
_Various Canapés._—Once the pieces of toast or canapés are grilled
and buttered, they may be garnished with chopped smoked tongue or
ham, cohered with a little butter and mustard, with grilled slices of
mushrooms or tomatoes, &c.
A few of the preparations have names, while others are only
distinguished by the nature of their garnish.
2305—CANAPES A LA CADOGAN
Take oval and slightly hollowed pieces of toast, fried in butter and
garnished with spinach prepared with butter. Lay two oysters on the
spinach of each piece of toast; cover with Mornay sauce, and glaze
quickly.
2306—CANAPES DES GOURMETS
Prepare some very thin pieces of toast; fry them in butter, and garnish
them with a cheese _fondue_. Pair them off, and sandwich a piece of
grilled bacon between each pair.
2307—CANAPES IVANHOE
Take some round, buttered pieces of toast, garnished with haddock
purée, and set a very small, grilled mushroom on the purée of each
piece of toast.
2308—CANAPES A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Take some round, buttered pieces of toast, garnished with haddock
purée, and glazed.
N.B.—I see no use in extending this list any further; the above
directions should suffice to show the variety to which these
preparations lend themselves.
2309—CARCASSE DE VOLAILLE (Chicken Carcasses)
Take in preference the carcasses of fowls cooked without colouration.
After having trimmed them, coat them with mustard and cayenne, and
grill them.
2310—CHAMPIGNONS SOUS CLOCHE
Trim the mushrooms; season them with salt and pepper, and garnish the
hollow of each with a piece of Maître-d’hôtel butter, the size of a
hazel-nut, and one-half coffeespoonful of cream.
Set a mushroom on each piece of toast, which should be two inches in
diameter and fried in butter. Dish them on an egg-tray, and cover them
with a special, small, glass bell, four inches in diameter and two
inches high, the rim of which must rest on the bottom of a dish, the
diameter of which should be such as to fit the bell.
Put the dishes on the side of the stove, and cook in moderate heat for
about twenty-five minutes.
2311—CONDÉS AU FROMAGE
Prepare a ribbon from puff-paste trimmings, as in the case of No. 2299.
Spread thereon a thick layer of very reduced Béchamel sauce, flavoured
with cayenne, and combined, when cold, with very small dice of Gruyère
and Parmesan. Cut up and cook as for No. 2299.
2312—CRÈME FRITE AU FROMAGE
Mix together four oz. of flour, two and one-half oz. of rice cream,
three eggs, and two egg-yolks. Dilute with one pint of milk; season
with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg; boil, and cook for five minutes over an
open fire, stirring incessantly the while.
Add four oz. of grated Gruyère; spread this preparation on a buttered
tray; leave it to cool, and then cut it into elongated lozenges. Roll
the latter in beaten egg and bread-crumbs mixed with grated cheese, and
fry them at the last moment. Dish them on a napkin.
2313—CROQUETTES DE CAMEMBERT
Dilute two oz. of flour and two oz. of rice cream with one-third pint
of milk.
Add one lb. of cleaned camembert, cut into dice, five oz. of butter,
salt, cayenne, and nutmeg.
Cook the preparation, stirring it the while; cool it; spread it on
a tray; mould it to the shape of small quoits; treat these twice _à
l’anglaise_, and fry them.
2314—DELICES DE FOIE GRAS
Take some fresh, well-seasoned foie gras, studded with truffles, and
covered with slices of bacon, and poach it in a basin with good aspic
jelly flavoured with dry champagne or Rhine wine. Leave to cool for
twenty-four hours; clear the jelly of grease, first by means of a
spoon, and then with boiling water.
Serve the preparation as it stands, very cold, and accompany it with
grilled, crisp, and very hot slices of bread-crumb.
2315—DIABLOTINS
These are very small, poached Gnochi, sprinkled with grated cheese,
flavoured with a very little cayenne, and set for their _gratin_ to
form at the last moment.
2316—FONDANTS AU CHESTER
Moisten one-half lb. of flour, an equal quantity of butter and grated
cheese, a pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne, with a few
tablespoonfuls of water.
Cut the paste into small galettes, two inches in diameter; _gild_ them
with beaten eggs; streak them with a fork, and bake them in a moderate
oven.
When cold, pair the _galettes_ off, and stick them together with a
tablespoonful of fondant cream, prepared thus:—
Mix six egg-yolks with two-thirds pint of cream; season with salt and
cayenne; leave to set on moderate fire, like an English custard, and,
when the preparation is almost cold, finish it with five oz. of best
butter and as much grated cheese.
2317—ANGES A CHEVAL
Wrap some fine oysters, each in a thin slice of bacon. Impale them on a
skewer; season and grill them, and dish them on small pieces of toast.
Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and cayenne when about to serve.
2318—BROCHETTES D’HUÎTRES LUCIFER
Poach some fine native oysters in their own liquor; clear them of their
beards; dry them, and dip them in thin mustard. Impale them, six at a
time, on skewers, and treat them _à l’anglaise_.
Fry them at the last moment, and dish them on a napkin.
2319—OMELETTE A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Take some fresh herring milts; salt them; sprinkle them with cayenne
and chopped chives, parsley, and chervil; wrap each in a thin slice of
smoked salmon, and poach them gently in butter.
Set them aslant in the centre of an “omelette aux fines herbes”; cover
them well with the latter, and roll it up.
2320—OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES
See No. 502.
2321—GRILLED BONES
Take the trimmed bones of a roast sirloin, and let there be still some
meat upon them. Sprinkle them with cayenne; coat them with mustard, and
grill them.
2322—PAILLETTES AU PARMESAN
Prepare some puff-paste with two-thirds lb. of butter; roll it out ten
times, dusting it and the table well the while with grated Parmesan
and a little cayenne, that the paste may absorb as much as possible
of these. Then roll it into square layers of four-inch sides and
one-eighth inch thick; cut these up into ribbons one-eighth inch wide;
set them on buttered trays; bake them in a very hot oven, and serve
them on a napkin.
2323—PANNEQUETS A LA MOSCOVITE
Take some ordinary, unsugared Pannequets; cut them into rectangles
three inches long by one and one-half inches wide. Coat them with
caviare, flavoured with cayenne; roll them into cigarettes, and serve
them on crystal hors-d’œuvre dishes.
2324—PUDDING DE FROMAGE AU PAIN
Set some thin slices of stale, buttered and cheese-sprinkled bread in a
pie-dish. Having three-parts filled the dish with it, cover the slices
with a preparation consisting of the yolks of four eggs mixed with
one-quarter pint of broth—which quantities are suited to a pint dish.
Sprinkle copiously with grated cheese; bake in the oven, and glaze at
the last moment.
2325—SARDINES A LA DIABLE
Take fresh sardines, if possible. Skin and bone them; coat them with
mustard and cayenne; treat them _à l’anglaise_; fry them at the last
moment, and dish them on small fried _croûtons_, the shape of sardines.
N.B.—Fresh anchovies and smelts may be prepared in the same way.
2326—SCOTCH WOODCOCK
Toast some large slices of bread, one-third inch thick, and cover them
with a very thick English butter sauce, combined with plenty of capers
and anchovy purée.
Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; glaze quickly at the salamander;
speedily cut up into small rectangles, and serve very hot.
2327—TARTELETTES AGNÈS
Line some grooved tartlet moulds with good paste, and garnish them with
a preparation of Quiche with cheese, flavoured with cayenne. Cook them
at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the oven, set a roundel
of poached marrow rolled in pale melted meat glaze and chopped parsley
on each tartlet.
2328—TARTELETTES A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Take some tartlet crusts, baked without colouration, and garnish them
at the last moment with a haddock purée, cohered with Béchamel sauce.
2329—TARTELETTES DE HADDOCK
Garnish some colourlessly-baked tartlet crusts with a _salpicon_ of
poached haddock, mixed with curry sauce. Sprinkle the surface of each
with fine raspings, and dish them on a napkin.
2330—TARTELETTES A LA FLORENTINE
Garnish some colourlessly-baked tartlet crusts with Soufflé with
Parmesan, combined with grated truffles and crayfishes’ tails cut into
dice, and strongly seasoned with mignonette.
Bake in the oven for about three minutes.
2331—TARTELETTES MARQUISE
Line some tartlets with good paste; garnish their bottom and sides with
a thread of gnochis preparation, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted
with an even pipe, the orifice of which should be equal in diameter to
macaroni.
Fill up the tartlets with Mornay sauce flavoured with cayenne; sprinkle
with grated cheese, and bake in a fierce oven.
2332—TARTELETTES A LA RAGLAN
Garnish the bottom of some colourlessly-baked tartlets with a smoked
herring-milt purée. Cover the latter with haddock _soufflé_, shaped
like a hive by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small, grooved pipe.
Place in the oven for six minutes, and serve instantly.
2333—TARTELETTES A LA TOSCA
Garnish some tartlet crusts with crayfishes’ tails, prepared “à
l’Américaine.” Cover with Soufflé with Parmesan, and place in the oven
for three minutes.
2334—TARTELETTES A LA VENDOME
Line some tartlet moulds with good paste; prick the bottom of each, and
garnish them with the following preparation.
For twelve tartlets:—One and one-half oz. of chopped shallots, heated
in butter; three oz. of _sautéd_ and finely chopped _cèpes_; one and
one-half oz. of raw marrow in dice; one small hard-boiled and chopped
egg; one oz. of bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne, a few drops of lemon
juice, and three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze. Set a large slice
of marrow on each tartlet, and cook at the last moment.
2335—WELSH RABBIT
This may be prepared in two ways, but always on square or rectangular
pieces of buttered toast, one-third inch thick.
1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer
of grated Gloucester or Chester cheese, to sprinkle them with cayenne,
and then to place them in the oven for the cheese to melt and thereby
glaze their surfaces.
2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese
in a few tablespoonfuls of pale ale and a little English mustard.
As soon as the cheese has melted, it is poured over the pieces of
buttered toast, quickly smoothed with the flat of a knife, and
sprinkled with cayenne. The pieces may be cut up if required.
2336—SANDWICHES
Sandwiches are prepared in two ways, according to their purposes.
They generally consist of two slices of buttered bread, with mustard
spread upon them, covering a slice of ham or tongue, &c. Sandwiches are
usually rectangular, and they should measure about three inches by one
and one-half inches. The kind served at ball buffets are much smaller,
and therefore it is best to cut the sandwiched product (whatever this
be) into dice, and to mix it with an equal weight of butter containing
mustard.
When sandwiches have to be kept, they should be placed under a slight
weight to prevent the bread from drying. Sandwiches may also be made
from thick, toasted slices of bread, cut laterally into two, and then
garnished according to fancy.
_Names of common Sandwiches._
Ham Sandwich.
Tongue Sandwich.
Beef Sandwich.
Pressed-beef Sandwich.
Veal Sandwich.
Chicken Sandwich.
Foie-Gras Sandwich.
Hard-boiled Egg Sandwich.
Caviare Sandwich.
Tomato Sandwich.
Cucumber Sandwich.
Watercress Sandwich.
Mustard-and-cress Sandwich.
2337—BOOKMAKER SANDWICHES
In his book, “La Cuisine Anglaise,” Mr. Suzanne gives the following
kind of sandwich, which deserves attention:—
This kind of sandwich, which is liked by racing people, is a most
substantial affair, and it will be seen from the following recipe that
a sandwich of the nature prescribed might, in an emergency, answer the
purpose of a meal.
Take an English tin-loaf, and cut off its two end crusts, leaving on
them about one-third inch of crumb. Butter these crusts. Meanwhile
grill a thick steak, well seasoned with salt and pepper. When it is
cooked, cool it; sprinkle it with grated horse-radish and mustard,
and lay it between the two crusts. String the whole together as for a
galantine, and wrap it in several sheets of blotting-paper. Then place
the parcel under a letter-press, the screw of which should be gradually
tightened, and leave the sandwich thus for one-half hour.
At the end of this time the insides of the slices of bread have, owing
to the pressure, become saturated with meat juice, which is prevented
from escaping by the covering of crust.
Remove the blotting-paper, and pack the sandwich in a box or in several
sheets of white paper.
CHAPTER XX
=Entremets (Sweets)=
Pastry, Confectionery, and Ices are so closely allied to Cookery, and
they are so surely its complements, that it is impossible to omit them
when dealing with Entremets, even though the latter be limited to the
kind proper to the kitchen.
However, these subjects, which could supply matter for voluminous
works, are too complex for it to be possible to cope thoroughly with
them here.
I shall therefore confine myself to the expounding of their fundamental
principles and the essential operations relating thereto, a knowledge
of which is absolutely necessary for the successful preparation
of Kitchen Entremets and Ices. The directions given hereafter
are certainly too inadequate to convert an ordinary cook into a
pastry-cook, a confectioner, or a “glacier”; but they will at least
admit of his carrying out a complete dinner, if the necessity so to do
should occur.
=Elementary Preparations of Pastry which may be Applied to Entremets=
2338—VARIOUS ALMOND PREPARATIONS
It is important that one should have skinned, splintered, and chopped
almonds.
_To Skin Almonds._—Throw them in a saucepan of boiling water, place
the utensil on the side of the fire without allowing the boiling to
continue, and let the almonds soak for seven or eight minutes. As soon
as the skin slips when pressing them between one’s fingers, turn them
out on to a strainer; cool them in cold water, and skin them. This
done, wash them in cold water; drain them well; spread them on a very
clean tray, and dry them in a mild oven.
_Splintered Almonds._—Having skinned and washed the almonds, split them
in two, and cut each half into five or six splinters. Dry the latter in
the drying-box, and place them in the front of the oven for a while to
colour slightly.
They serve for nougat, and sometimes take the place of pignolis.
_Chopped Almonds._—Having skinned the almonds, slightly dry them and
chop them with a knife; rub them through a canvas sieve, the coarseness
of which should be in accordance with that required for the chopped
almonds.
Spread the latter on a tray covered with a sheet of paper, and dry them
in the drying-box, stirring them from time to time the while.
_Grilled Almonds._—These are either splintered or chopped almonds set
to bake on a tray in a moderate oven. Be sure to stir them frequently,
that they may colour evenly, and withdraw them when they are of a nice
golden shade.
_Pralined Almonds._—Proceed as for grilled almonds, but sprinkle them
frequently with icing sugar, which turns to caramel under the influence
of the heat of the oven, and swathes the almonds in a pale-brown coat
of sugar.
2339—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FILBERTS AND HAZEL-NUTS
Filberts are a large kind of hazel-nut, generally covered with red
skins.
After having cracked and suppressed the shells, set the filberts on a
dish, and place them in the front of the oven until their skins are
slightly grilled. They need then only be rubbed between the fingers
in order to clear them of their skins. Chopped filberts are prepared
like chopped almonds, and should be included in the permanent “_mise en
place_” of the pastry cook.
2340—VARIOUS BUTTERS
_Softened Butter._—More particularly in winter, when it is very hard,
butter should be softened, _i.e._, thoroughly kneaded in a towel, to:—
1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less
large quantities.
2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of
which the pastes are made up.
_Pomaded Butter._—After having well softened it as above, put it in a
bowl or basin, previously rinsed with hot water and thoroughly wiped.
Work the butter with a spatula or a wooden spoon until it acquires the
consistence of a pomade—a necessary condition for certain of its uses.
_Clarified Butter._—In pastry, clarified butter is used more especially
for the buttering of moulds. Put the butter to be clarified into a
saucepan, and cook it over a very slow fire until (1) the caseous
substances liberated in the cooking process have accumulated and
solidified on the bottom of the saucepan; (2) it appears limpid, of a
golden colour, and exhales a slight, nutty smell.
Strain it through muslin, and put it aside until required.
2341—THE BUTTERING AND GLAZING OF MOULDS
All moulds, large and small, should be buttered so as to ensure the
easy turning-out of cakes cooked in them. Clarified butter, owing to
its purity, is the best for the purpose. It may be applied with a
brush, care being taken that all the inside surfaces get uniformly
covered with it. One unbuttered spot is sufficient to make a moulding
stick, or to completely spoil a cake.
For certain cakes, chopped or splintered almonds are sprinkled
in the mould. For others, especially biscuits, the moulds are
flour-dusted—that is to say, a veil of very dry flour or fecula is
allowed to settle on the layer of butter, which, at the turning out,
appears like a glazed crust upon the cake.
2342—HOW TO BEAT THE WHITES OF EGGS
The best utensil for the purpose is a copper or nickel basin in which
the whisk may act at all points owing to the spherical shape of the
receptacle. Tinned or enamelled utensils set up a kind of greasiness
which does not allow of one’s bringing the whites to the stiffness
necessary for some purposes.
Begin whisking the whites gently, and draw them up with the whisk until
all their molecules have disaggregated and they begin to stiffen. They
may then be whisked until they are sufficiently stiff to be taken up
bodily by the whisk.
_Preventive Means._—To facilitate the beating of whites of eggs, there
may be added to them at the start a pinch either of salt or alum per
ten whites. When, towards the close of the operation, the whites begin
to granulate, owing to any one of the various causes, add immediately
one tablespoonful of powdered sugar per ten whites, and then whisk
briskly, to restore them to their normal state.
2343—VEGETABLE COLOURING MATTERS
Every pastry-cook’s stock should include a series of vegetable
colouring matters, comprising carmine, liquid spinach green, yellow, &c.
When required, the blending of these colours yields the intermediate
tones. The colours may be bought.
2344—THE COOKING OF SUGAR
From the state of syrup to the most highly-concentrated state in which
it is used in pastry sugar passes through various stages of cooking,
which are:—The small thread (215° F.) and the large thread (222° F.),
the small ball (236° F.) and the large ball (248° F.), the small
crack (285° F.) and the large crack (315° F.). When the last state is
overreached, the sugar has become caramel (360° F.).
Put the necessary quantity of loaf sugar in a small, copper saucepan;
moisten with enough water to melt it, and boil. Carefully remove the
scum which forms, and which might cause the sugar to granulate.
As soon as the sugar begins to move stiffly in boiling, it is a sign
that the water has almost entirely evaporated, and that the real
cooking of the sugar has begun.
From this moment, with moistened fingers or a little piece of moistened
linen, take care to remove the crystallised sugar from the sides of the
utensil, lest it makes the remaining portion turn.
The cooking of the sugar then progresses very rapidly, and the states
of its various stages, coming one upon the other in quick succession at
intervals of a few minutes, may be ascertained as follows:—
It has reached the _small-thread stage_, when a drop of it held between
the thumb and the first finger forms small resistless strings when the
thumb and finger are drawn apart.
It has reached the _large-thread stage_, when, proceeding in the same
way, the strings formed between the parted finger and thumb are more
numerous and stronger.
From this moment recourse must be had to cold water in order to
ascertain the states of the sugar.
When a few minutes have elapsed after the test for the large-thread
state, dip the end of the first finger, first into cold water, then
into the sugar, and plunge it again immediately into the bowl of cold
water, which should be ready at hand. The sugar taken from the finger
forms a kind of soft ball, and it is this state which is called the
_small ball_.
When, upon repeating the procedure, the sugar removed from the finger
rolls into a firmer ball, the _large-ball stage_ is reached.
After the cooking has continued for a few seconds longer, the sugar
lying on the finger peels off in the form of a thin, flexible film,
which sticks to the teeth. This is the _small-crack stage_. Tests
should then be made in quick succession, until the film taken from the
end of the finger breaks “clean” in the teeth, like glass. This is the
_large-crack state_, the last of the cooking stages, and as soon as it
has been reached the utensil should be taken off the fire, lest a few
seconds more turn the sugar to _caramel_.
To prevent the granulating of the sugar, a few drops of lemon juice may
be added to it; or, better still, a tablespoonful of glucose per lb.
2345—GLACE A L’ANCIENNE
Put the required amount of icing sugar in a small saucepan, the
quantity used being in proportion to the object to be glazed.
If it be flavoured with vanilla, orange, or lemon, dilute it with a
little water, keeping it somewhat stiff; add some vanilla-flavoured
sugar or grated orange-rind, and stir it up well for a few minutes.
Then make it lukewarm, so that it may run easily and dry quickly, and
pour it over the object to be treated.
For the above-mentioned flavours, an infusion of vanilla or orange-rind
may be prepared, and this may serve in diluting the glaze. The flavours
may also be used in the form of essences, provided it be remembered
that they are usually very strong thus, and must be used with caution.
If liqueur glazes are in question, such as Kirsch, Rum, Anisette, or
Marasquin, &c., the glaze is diluted with the liqueur and made lukewarm
as directed above.
2346—GLACE AU FONDANT
_Preparation of the “Fondant.”_—Put some loaf sugar into a small
saucepan, the quantity being in accordance with the amount of “Fondant”
required.
Moisten with just enough water to melt the sugar, and set to cook as
directed under “The Cooking of Sugar.”
Stop the cooking precisely at 230° F. between the _large-thread stage_
and the _small-ball stage_, and pour the sugar on a moderately-oiled
marble slab. Let it half cool for a few minutes; then, with a spatula,
move it about well in all directions, taking care that no portion of
the sugar on the marble is left untouched by the spatula, for any such
portion would harden and form lumps in the Fondant.
After ten to fifteen minutes’ work with the spatula, the sugar should
have become a white, slightly granulated paste. Heap the latter
together, and scrape the marble slab with the blade of a strong knife.
Carefully knead this paste (No. 2357) with the palm of the hand until
it is very thin and smooth, whereupon the Fondant is ready for use.
It need now only be heaped in a receptacle, covered with a damp cloth,
and kept somewhat dry.
_To Glaze with “Fondant.”_—Put the required amount of it into a
saucepan; work it over a slow fire for a while, in order to soften it,
and moisten it, little by little, with water when a dry flavour or an
essence is used, or, otherwise, with the selected liqueur.
Warm slightly in order to make the glaze very liquid and to ensure its
speedy drying, and pour it, at one tilt, over the object to be glazed.
With the help of some colour, the glaze is generally given the tint of
the fruit which flavours it.
2346a—SUCRE EN GLACE (Icing Sugar)
This is sugar strained through a silken drum-sieve. The sugar strained
through this silk has the delicacy of starch. At times it is used
instead of Fondant for the glazing of cakes, but it is mostly used for
white and caramel glazings. For this purpose the sugar is held in a
tin box, covered with a lid pierced with small holes, called a sugar
dredger.
To _glaze white_ is to cover a cake, a fritter, or other object with a
coat of icing sugar. This operation is effected by shaking the sugar
dredger over the object to be glazed.
_To glaze with caramel_ is to cover a _Soufflé_, a _souffléd_ omelet,
fruit fritters, a custard, _Pannequets_, or other objects with a coat
of icing sugar. By placing the sugar-coated object in fierce heat,
a few minutes suffice to melt the sugar, which is converted into a
brilliant covering of caramel.
2347—SUGAR GRAINS
These are used in pastry to border certain cakes, or to surround the
sugared-paste bases on which cakes are set. For this purpose the parts
to which the sugar is expected to adhere must be besmeared with cooked
apricot.
To make them, roughly pound some loaf sugar, and sift the latter first
through a coarse strainer, and then through a finer one, according
to the size the sugar grains are required to be. The powder will, of
course, fall and leave the grains clean.
2348—COLOURED SUGAR GRAINS
To colour sugar grains, spread them on a piece of paper, and add a
drop of liquid vegetable-colouring or a very little coloured paste per
tablespoonful of sugar. The amount of colouring matter may either be
lessened or increased, according to the strength the shade is required
to be.
Rub the sugar in the hand to colour it evenly; dry it in a moderately
warm drying-box, and keep it in the dry in well-closed boxes.
2349—VANILLA SUGAR
The vanilla sticks which have served in preparing infusions still
possess some flavour. Reserve them, therefore, for the making of
vanilla sugar.
After having gently dried them in the drying-box, finely pound them
with twice their weight of loaf sugar; sift through a silken sieve, and
again pound the bits remaining on the silk of the sieve until every
particle goes through. Keep the preparation in a well-closed box in the
dry.
2350—CANDIED FRUIT
These are used in the decoration of certain cakes, and as the
constituent ingredients of others.
They comprise angelica, golden and green _chinois_, cherries, plums,
red and white pears, &c.
Candied fruit may be bought ready-prepared.
2351—APPLE JELLY FOR DECORATING
Quarter, peel, and core the apples (preferably russets), and throw
them, one by one, in a bowl of fresh water to prevent their getting
brown.
Then put them in a copper basin with one and one-half pints of water
per two lbs. of apples, and cook them gently without touching them.
This done, pour away their juice, and return it to the basin together
with two lbs. of sugar per quart. Boil; skim with great care, that the
jelly may be clear, and cook over a fierce fire until the jelly has
reached a stage which may be ascertained thus:—(1) When on taking the
skimmer out of the basin, the jelly adhering to it seems to mass itself
towards the middle of the skimmer; or:—(2) When the jelly breaks up
into large drops, separated one from the other.
Then take the jelly off the fire; add some carmine to it, drop by drop,
until it acquires a rosy hue; strain it again through a fine piece of
linen, that it may be perfectly limpid, and finally pour it into tin
receptacles to cool.
Put aside until wanted.
2352—PRALIN
(1) If it be for the purpose of covering certain cakes, or for forming
a glaze on a fruit entremet, prepare it thus:—Put the whites of two
eggs and three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar in a small basin. Mix
and stir briskly with a small, wooden spoon, until the paste becomes
somewhat thick. Then, subject to the purpose for which it is intended,
add a more or less large quantity of chopped almonds, according as to
whether the pralin be required thick or slightly liquid for spreading.
Cover it with a piece of white paper, moistened with white of egg, that
it may remain moist if kept for some time.
(2) If it is to be added to a _soufflé_ preparation, to a _souffléd_
omelet, to a preparation of ice, or to a custard, it is a nougat powder
which is prepared as follows:—
Gently melt one lb. of powdered sugar in a small saucepan, taking care
not to let it acquire a deeper shade than old gold. Mix twenty oz.
of dried almonds with it; turn the whole out on to the corner of a
slightly-oiled marble slab (or on an overturned saucepan-lid), and
leave to cool. When the nougat is quite cold, pound it and rub it
through a sieve.
Pound and rub what remains in the sieve until the whole goes through.
Put the powder in a well-closed box, and place the latter in a dry
place.
2353—CURRANTS AND SULTANAS
Sultanas and currants should always be at hand, ready and cleaned. To
clean them, first dredge them and then rub them in a towel, closed
to form a sort of purse. Now, turn them into a sieve or colander,
which shake vigorously, that the flour and the detached stems may be
eliminated; then examine them, one by one, to make sure that no stems
remain.
Currants should be examined with very particular care, as small stones
often get in among them.
Put the currants and the sultanas aside, each in a box or a drawer.
2354—ESSENCES AND FLAVOURINGS
The various essences used in pastry are bought ready-made. The
flavourings consist of those products treated by infusion, such as
vanilla; of grated or infused products, such as lemon and orange rinds;
and liqueurs in general.
Fruit juices only become flavours when a liqueur in keeping with the
fruit from which they were extracted has been added to them.
2355—GILDING PREPARATION
This consists of beaten eggs. Its purpose is to ensure the colouration
of certain cakes, whereon it is smeared by means of a brush. In some
cases this gilding may be combined with a little water, as, for
instance, when the heat of the oven is too fierce, and cakes are
required of a light colour. In some cases, especially in that of small,
dry cakes, it consists entirely of egg-yolks diluted with a few drops
of water.
=The Pastes=
2356—ORDINARY SHORT PASTE
Sift one lb. of flour over the mixing-board; make a hollow in its
midst, and put therein one-sixth oz. of salt, one-third pint of cold
water, and one-half lb. of butter well softened—especially in winter.
Mix the flour gradually with the butter and the water; mass the whole a
moment or two, and knead it (see No. 2357) twice. Then roll it up in a
ball; wrap it in a piece of linen that its surface may not dry, and put
it aside in the cool.
_Remarks_: A kneaded paste should be prepared either one day, or
at least a few hours, in advance, in order that it may lose that
elasticity which it acquires from the kneading.
Pastes, after they have rested awhile, are much more easily treated,
and bake a much more definite and lighter colour, than those that are
used as soon as they are prepared.
2357—THE KNEADING OF PASTES
The object of kneading paste is to combine the ingredients of which it
is composed thoroughly, and also to smooth it. Proceed as follows:—
When the paste is mixed, roll it into a mass; put it in front of one;
then press it away from one, little by little, between the board and
the palm of the hand. For the paste to be perfectly smooth, it ought to
be treated twice in this way.
2358—FINE, SHORT OR FLAWN PASTE (For Fruit Tarts)
Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board, and hollow it out.
Put in the hollow one-third oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of
powdered sugar, an egg, one-fourth pint of cold water, and ten oz. of
butter. First, thoroughly mix the butter, the egg, the water, and the
seasoning, and then gradually combine the flour with it.
Knead the paste; press it out twice; roll it into a ball, and wrap it
up as before with the view of setting it aside in the cool to rest.
2359—DRESSING PASTE (Pâte à Pâté)
Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of butter, one egg,
one-third oz. of salt, and one-fourth pint of water. Mix as already
directed; knead twice; roll up the paste, and set it in the cool to
rest. This paste should be kept somewhat firm.
2360—DRESSING PASTE WITH LARD
Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of lard, one-quarter pint of
tepid water, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and proceed exactly as in
the case of No. 2359.
2361—DUMPLING AND PUDDING PASTES
Break up ten oz. of very dry beef suet, and carefully clear it of all
little pieces of skin and connective tissue. Chop it up as finely as
possible; sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board; hollow it out;
and put into the hollow one-half oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of
sugar, one-third pint of water, and the chopped suet. Mix up these
various ingredients, and, by degrees, combine the flour with them.
Mass the paste together, without kneading it, and put it aside in the
cool until it is wanted.
2362—DRY SUGARED PASTE FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES
Take one lb. of sifted flour, seven oz. of butter, five oz. of powdered
sugar, three eggs, and one-half tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Mix in the usual way, knead it twice; roll it into a ball, and keep it
wrapped up, in the cool, until required.
2363—PASTE FOR SMALL GUMMED TEA-CAKES
Take one lb. of sifted flour, ten oz. of butter, ten oz. of sugar, one
egg, the yolks of four, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Mix up gradually; mass the paste together, and roll it out into a thin
layer, twice. Roll it up, and let it rest awhile in the cool before it
is used.
2364—GUMMING
In the case of certain small cakes, especially those served at tea, it
is usual to gum their surfaces in order to make them glossy. For this
purpose a thin solution of gum arabic is used, and it is smeared over
the cakes as they leave the oven, by means of a small brush.
Cakes may also be gummed with a syrup formed from milk and sugar, which
mixture may be used instead of gum arabic with advantage.
2365—GALETTE PASTE
Hollow out one lb. of sifted flour and put in its midst one-third oz.
of salt, two oz. of powdered sugar, one-quarter pint of water, and
one-half lb. of softened butter.
Mix, taking care to include the flour only by degrees; thoroughly
knead, that the ingredients may be well combined, and mass the paste
together without making it too elastic. Leave it to rest in the cool
for at least an hour; then roll it out thrice, at intervals of eight
minutes, for the reasons given under the directions for puff-paste.
2366—PUFF-PASTE
(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board. Make a hollow in it,
and put therein one-third oz. of table salt and about one-half pint of
cold water, and mix without kneading. Mass the paste together, and let
it rest for twenty minutes, that it may lose its elasticity, which will
be all the more pronounced for its having been very much worked. It
is to avoid this elasticity, therefore, that the mixing of puff-paste
should be effected with the smallest amount of kneading possible.
(2) Spread the prepared paste on a flour-dusted board, in the shape of
an even galette. Spread thereon one lb. of softened butter, without
completely covering the paste; draw the edges of the paste towards the
centre, in such wise as to enclose the butter completely, and to form a
square thickness of paste.
(3) Leave to rest for a further ten minutes and then begin the working
of the paste; rolling it out to the length of one and one-half feet,
and keeping it one in. thick. Fold this layer over thrice, and press
upon it with the roller so as to join the superposed layers. The whole
of this operation constitutes one turn.
Begin another turn immediately, turning the paste the reverse way,
and folding it as before. Set it to rest in the cool for eight or ten
minutes, and then effect two more turns.
Ten minutes after the two last turns (there should be six in all), the
puff-paste is ready to be cut up and used.
_Remarks relative to puff-paste_: Good puff-paste should be buttered
to the extent of one lb. per one and one-half lbs., _i.e._, one lb. of
butter for every one lb. of flour mixed with one-half pint of water.
The consistence of the paste and the butter should be exactly the same,
if they are to be evenly mixed; the butter ought therefore to be
softened—more particularly in winter.
In preparing puff-paste, remember to put it in a cool place while it
is resting; but never directly upon ice; for, though the ice would not
affect the paste, it might seriously affect the butter.
It would harden it to the extent of preventing its perfect mixture
with the mass, and lumps would form. Puff-paste should be rolled out
very regularly, with the view of thoroughly distributing the butter
throughout the preparation, and thus ensuring its uniform rising.
Puff-paste should not be worked too speedily; for, if it be so worked,
it will be found to acquire an elasticity which not only makes it
difficult to cut up, but also tends to make it shrink in the baking.
2367—PUFF-PASTE TRIMMINGS OR HALF PUFF-PASTE
These are very useful in pastry work, for tartlets, _barquettes_,
_croûtons_, &c. When the puff-paste is cut up, the trimmings
should therefore be rolled into a ball, and put aside in the cool.
Nevertheless they must be used within the space of two days in summer
and four days in winter.
2368—ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE
(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the board; take a quarter of it, make a
hollow in it, and put therein one-quarter oz. of very fresh, dry yeast.
Mix the yeast and the flour with a little tepid water, so as to obtain
a soft paste which is the leaven. Roll this paste into a ball; make two
slits in its top, at right angles to one another, and place it in a
small basin.
Cover the latter, and put it in a somewhat warm place, that the leaven
may be sure to ferment.
(2) Make a hollow in the remaining flour, and put into it
one-quarter oz. of salt, and one and one-half oz. of sugar, together
with two tablespoonfuls of milk to melt it, one-third of the whole
amount of the butter to be used, namely, four oz., and four eggs.
Begin by thoroughly mixing the butter, eggs and seasoning, and then
combine the flour therewith, by degrees. When the paste forms a
compact mass, knead and pull it about with the hands, that it may be
light. When, at the end of a few minutes, it has acquired a certain
resilience, make a hole in the middle of it and add one egg. Mix the
latter with the paste; work it afresh, and after an interval of two
minutes add one more egg in the same way. The total number of eggs for
the quantities of other ingredients given above should be six.
(3) Add the remaining butter (eight oz.) to the paste; the former being
_manied_ and even softened, just sufficiently to make it of the same
consistence as the paste.
Spread it on the latter, and mix the two; kneading small portions at
a time, and combining those portions so as to mix the two elements
completely.
At this stage, overturn the paste and spread the leaven (which should
now be equal to twice its original bulk) upon it.
Mix it well as in the case of the butter, without working the paste.
Finally, put the paste into a basin; cover it, and place it in a
temperate room.
For it to have the desired lightness, this paste should ferment for
from ten to twelve hours. However, at the end of five or six hours, the
process is arrested by the working of the paste; that is to say, by
turning it out upon a flour-dusted board and beating it with the palm
of the hand.
It is then returned to the basin to ferment afresh, for five or six
hours; and then it is once more beaten just before being used.
2369—MOUSSELINE BRIOCHE PASTE
_Mousseline_ brioche paste is made from the ordinary kind, combined
with a little butter and developed in the mould by fermentation before
the baking process—which procedure makes it exceedingly light and
delicate.
This paste is used in the preparation of certain timbales for fruit
sweets, and it is prepared as follows:—
Take the required amount of ordinary brioche paste, and add to it,
per lb. of paste, two oz. of best butter, softened to the consistence
of an ointment, that it may thoroughly mix with the paste. Roll the
paste into a ball, and put it in a liberally-buttered mould, only
filling two-thirds of the latter with it. The remaining third of the
mould gets filled by the rising of the paste. Place the mould in a
temperate room, until the paste has risen to the edges of the mould;
besmear the surface of the paste with a brush dipped in melted butter,
and bake in a moderate oven.
2370—ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE (For Rissoles, Small Patties à la Dauphine,
and Various other Preparations)
_Quantities_: one lb. of flour, seven oz. of butter, four fair-sized
eggs, salt, a pinch of powdered sugar; one-third oz. of very dry, fresh
yeast, and a little tepid milk.
(1) Make the leaven with a quarter of the flour, the yeast and the
lukewarm milk, and set it to ferment while the paste is being prepared.
(2) Prepare the paste as already directed, and keep it fermenting as
before for ten hours, taking care to arrest the process once.
The work is the same as in the preceding case, in every particular,
except in regard to the amount of butter, which in this instance is
only half as much; in regard to the amount of sugar, which should only
be just sufficient to ensure the colouring of the paste; and finally in
regard to its firmness, which should admit of the paste being worked
with a rolling-pin.
2371—SAVARIN PASTE
_Quantities_: One lb. of flour; twelve oz. of butter; one-half oz.
of very dry, fresh yeast; eight eggs; about one-third pint of milk;
one-half oz. of salt, and one oz. of sugar.
_Procedure_: Savarin paste may be prepared in several ways; but the one
given below is as simple and expeditious as could be desired.
Sift the flour into a basin (or a round wooden bowl, better suited to
the work); hollow it out; add the yeast, and dissolve the latter by
means of tepid milk, stirring slightly with the tip of the finger.
Add the eggs; mix the whole; work the paste by hand for a few minutes;
detach those portions of it which have adhered to the side of the
utensil, and add them to the whole.
Distribute the softened butter in small quantities over the paste.
Cover, and place in a temperate room until the paste has grown to
twice its original bulk. Then add salt; knead the paste, that it
may thoroughly absorb the butter, and pat it briskly until it is
sufficiently elastic to be taken up in one lump.
At this stage add the sugar, and work the paste again that the former
may thoroughly mix with it. The sugar should only be added at the close
of the operation; for, since it impairs the cohesiveness of the paste,
it would render the latter much more difficult to work were it added at
the start.
THE USES OF THIS PASTE
If it be for Savarins with syrup, it is customary to sprinkle the
previously-buttered moulds with slightly-grilled, chopped or splintered
almonds. Take the paste in small quantities at a time, and line the
moulds with it to the extent of one-third of their height.
The remaining two-thirds of each mould become covered when the paste
rises owing to fermentation.
Proceed in the same way for Savarins which are to be kept dry, for
fruit crusts or other uses; but then the sprinkling of the moulds with
almond may be omitted.
2372—PÂTE A BABA
_Quantities_: One lb. of flour; one-half lb. of butter; seven eggs;
two-thirds oz. of yeast; one-fifth pint of milk; one-third oz. of salt;
two-thirds oz. of sugar; three oz. of currants and sultanas in equal
quantities.
_Procedure_: Proceed exactly as for Savarin paste, and add the currants
and sultanas at the last with the sugar. In moulding, a few pipped
Malaga raisins may be laid on the bottom of the moulds. As in the case
of the Savarin, the paste should only fill one-third of the mould.
2373—ORDINARY PÂTE A CHOUX
_Quantities._—One pint of water; eight oz. of butter; one-third oz. of
salt; one oz. of sugar; one lb. of sifted flour; sixteen fair-sized
eggs, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
_Procedure._—Put the water, butter, salt, and sugar in a saucepan and
boil. When the liquid boils and rises, take the saucepan off the fire;
add the flour, and mix. Return the saucepan to a moderate fire, and
stir the paste until it ceases to stick to the spoon, and the butter
begins to ooze slightly.
Take the saucepan off the fire; add the eggs, two at a time, taking
care to mix each couple thoroughly with the paste before inserting the
succeeding couple. When all the eggs have been absorbed, finish the
paste with orange-flower water.
2374—COMMON PÂTE A CHOUX (For Souffléd Fritters, Gnochi, Potatoes à la
Dauphine)
Proceed as directed above, but reduce the quantity of butter to
three oz., and the number of eggs to twelve; avoid drying this paste
overmuch.
2375—RAMEQUINS AND GOUGÈRE PASTE
This is prepared exactly like ordinary “Pâte à Choux,” except that:—
1. Milk takes the place of water.
2. The sugar and orange-flower water are omitted.
3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut
into dice, are added to the paste, after all the eggs have been added
to it.
2376—PÂTE A GÉNOISE FINE
Put into a copper basin one lb. of powdered sugar and sixteen eggs. Mix
the two; place the basin upon hot cinders or on the hob, and whisk its
contents until they reach the _“ribbon” stage_ (see remarks below).
Then add the selected aroma (vanilla sugar, orange rind, or liqueur, in
the proportion of one tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or orange rind,
and one liqueur-glass of liqueur, to the quantities given above),
twelve oz. of sifted flour, and eight oz. of melted butter, the latter
being carefully poured into the paste without allowing it to bubble.
Mix these ingredients with the paste, raising the latter by means of a
spatula that it may not get heavy.
Bake it in buttered and dredged moulds.
_Remarks._—A preparation of Biscuit or _Génoise_ reaches the _“ribbon”
stage_ when it becomes thick, draws out in ribbon-form, and takes some
time to level itself again when a spoon is pulled out of it. This state
of the paste is also indicative of its lightness.
2377—ORDINARY GÉNOISE PASTE FOR CUTTING UP
_Quantities._—One lb. of sugar, twelve eggs, thirteen oz. of flour,
eight oz. of butter, and the quantity of flavouring thought sufficient.
Proceed exactly as in the preceding recipe, in everything pertaining to
the working of the paste.
This paste is baked in buttered and dredged cases, in which it is
spread in layers one and one-quarter inches thick, that it may rise to
about one and three-quarter inches thick, while baking.
2378—LADY’S-FINGER BISCUIT PASTE
Stir one lb. of sugar and sixteen egg-yolks in a basin until the
preparation has whitened slightly and has reached the _ribbon_
stage. Now add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water; mix therewith
twelve oz. of sifted flour, followed by sixteen egg-whites, whisked to
a stiff froth. Take care to effect the mixture by raising and cutting
the preparation with the spatula, that the former may be quite light.
_To Shape the Biscuits._—Put the paste, little by little, into a canvas
piping-bag, fitted with a pipe of one-half inch bore. Close the bag;
lay the biscuits on sheets of strong paper; sprinkle them with powdered
sugar, and rid them of any superfluous sugar by holding the sheets end
upwards.
Jerk a few drops of water upon the biscuits by means of a moistened
brush in order to assist the beading of the sugar, and remember that a
very moderate oven is the best for the effecting of this beading.
2379—SAVOY-BISCUIT PASTE
Stir one lb. of sugar and fourteen egg-yolks in a basin until the
preparation reaches the _ribbon_ stage. Flavour with vanilla sugar; add
six oz. of very dry, sifted flour mixed with six oz. of fecula, and
finally mix therewith the fourteen egg-whites, which should be in a
very stiff froth.
Carefully set the preparation in buttered and fecula-dredged moulds,
filling the latter only two-thirds full, and leaving the remaining
third to be covered by the rising of the paste while baking.
Bake in a regular, moderate oven.
2380—PÂTE A BISCUIT MANQUE
Stir one lb. of sugar with eighteen egg-yolks in a basin until the
preparation is white and light. Add three tablespoonfuls of rum,
thirteen oz. of sifted flour, and ten oz. of melted butter, carefully
poured away. Mix, raising it with the spatula in so doing.
Set the preparation in special buttered and dredged moulds, filling the
latter only two-thirds full with it. Bake in a moderate oven.
2381—PUNCH BISCUIT PASTE
Stir one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and three eggs in a basin,
until the whole becomes frothy. Aromatise with a bare tablespoonful of
orange sugar, the same amount of lemon sugar, and three tablespoonfuls
of best rum, and add twelve oz. of sifted flour, ten oz. of melted
butter, and the whites of eight eggs whisked to a stiff froth. Mix with
the usual precautions, that the paste may not be heavy.
Bake the preparation in buttered moulds, in cases or in rings,
according to the purpose it is intended for. Use a moderate oven.
2382—ORDINARY MERINGUE
Whisk the whites of eight eggs until they are as stiff as it is
possible to make them. Sprinkle them with one lb. of powdered sugar,
and mix them with the latter carefully, that they may retain all their
lightness.
2383—MERINGUE A L’ITALIENNE
Cook one lb. of sugar to the _large-ball_ stage, and meanwhile whisk
the whites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, so as to have them ready
simultaneously with the sugar.
Pour the cooked sugar into the egg-whites, slowly and without a pause,
and mix up briskly with the whisk.
2384—MERINGUE A L’ITALIENNE (another recipe)
Mix one lb. of very best powdered sugar and the whites of eight eggs
in an untinned copper basin. Place the utensil on hot cinders or on
the side of the stove, that the preparation may be lukewarm while in
progress.
Whisk the meringue until it is sufficiently consistent to span the
members of the whisk. If it is not to be used at once, transfer the
paste to a small basin; cover it with a round piece of paper, and set
it in the cool.
2385—ALMOND PASTE
Instead of the antiquated and difficult method of making almond pastes
in the mortar, a crushing machine is now used which not only yields
a much smoother paste, but also greatly simplifies the work. Almond
paste, which consists of almonds, sugar, and egg-whites, in quantities
varying in accordance with the purpose of the paste, is now sold
ready-made. It has only to be finished with a little sugar, white of
egg, and other things, subject to the use to which it is to be put.
2386—MELTING ALMOND PASTE (For Stuffing and Imitating Fruit)
Pass eight oz. of dry, skinned almonds through the crusher.
Place them in the mortar, together with the selected aromatic essence;
either a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or a small glassful of liqueur;
and add to them, little by little, working the while with the pestle,
one lb. of sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage.
With this generic recipe, the melting paste may be varied at will by an
increase or decrease in the quantity of sugar.
2387—PISTACHIOS
These should belong to the pastry-cook’s stock, but, as a rule, they
are only prepared just before being served. To skin them, proceed as in
the case of almonds.
2388—PISTACHIO PASTE FOR INFUSION
As soon as the pistachios are skinned, washed, and dried, crush them in
the mortar to a very smooth paste, which set in boiled milk, to infuse.
As the colour of pistachios is weak, it is strengthened in preparations
containing them with a few drops of vegetable green, while its aroma is
thrown into relief with a trifle of vanilla.
2389—MELTING PISTACHIO PASTE
Put seven oz. of pistachios and two oz. of almonds through the crusher;
both should have been just skinned. Put the paste into the mortar; add
to it two tablespoonfuls of syrup, strongly flavoured with vanilla,
followed by eight oz. of sugar, cooked to the _small-crack_ stage, and
added to the paste little by little.
Transfer the paste to a marble slab, and finish it by combining three
tablespoonfuls of icing sugar with it.
=The Preparation and Cooking of Various Pastry Crusts used in Cookery=
2390—VOL-AU-VENT CRUST
Prepare the puff-paste as directed under No. 2366. Make the layer
of paste of an even thickness of four-fifths inch; set thereon an
overturned plate or a saucepan-lid, the size of which should be that
intended for the Vol-au-vent, and cut the paste obliquely, following
round the edges of the lid or plate with a small knife. Turn the
layer of paste over, and set it on a slightly moistened round baking
sheet; groove it all round; _gild_ it, and describe a circle on top
of it with the point of a knife, one and one-quarter inches away from
the edge, to form the cover of the Vol-au-vent. Streak this cover
criss-cross-fashion; also streak the body of the Vol-au-vent with the
point of a small knife, and bake it in a rather hot oven.
Upon withdrawing the Vol-au-vent from the oven, remove its cover, and
clear it of the soft crumb which will be found on its inside.
2391—BOUCHEE OR SMALL-PATTY CRUSTS
Bouchées are really small Vol-au-vents. Roll out the paste, making it a
good one-third inch thick. Cut this layer with a grooved round cutter
three inches in diameter; set the roundels of stamped-out paste on a
moistened tray; _gild_, and make a circular incision in each of them,
one-half inch from their edges, either with the point of a small knife
or with an even, round cutter dipped in hot water.
Bake in a hot oven, and clear the insides of the bouchées of their
crumb on taking them out of the oven. “Mignonnes Bouchées,” which are
used as a garnish, are stamped out with a round cutter two inches in
diameter, and are slightly thicker than ordinary bouchées.
2392—SMALL HOT PATTIES
Roll out the puff-paste to a thickness of one-sixth inch, and stamp
it out with an even round cutter three inches in diameter. With the
trimmings resulting from this operation, rolled somewhat more thinly,
make an equal quantity of roundels, and lay them on a tray. Slightly
moisten the edges of these roundels with a brush; garnish their centres
with some forcemeat, rolled to the size of a hazel-nut; cover the
forcemeat with the roundels stamped out from the first; press upon
these with the back of a round cutter two inches in diameter; _gild_
them, and bake them in a hot oven for twelve or fourteen minutes.
2393—CROÛTES ET CROUSTADES
For tartlet crusts, which are put to various uses, take either even or
grooved, large or small moulds, subject to the requirements.
Roll out a piece of short paste to a thickness of one-fifth inch; stamp
it out with a grooved round cutter of a size in proportion to the
moulds used; line the buttered moulds with these roundels of paste;
pierce the paste on the bottom of each with the point of a small knife;
line with good-quality paper; fill up with lentils, split peas, or
rice, and bake in a moderate oven. When the paste is baked, withdraw
the dry vegetable used and the paper, and place the crusts in the
drying-box, that they may be quite dry; or _gild_ them inside, and set
them in the front of the oven for a few minutes.
2394—TIMBALE CRUST
Butter a Charlotte-mould, and decorate its sides with some sort of
design made from noodle-paste trimmings to which a little powdered
sugar has been added. Shape a piece of short paste (of a size in
proportion to the mould) like a ball; roll it out to a disc; sprinkle
it with flour, and fold it in two. Draw the ends gently towards the
centre, so as to form a kind of skullcap, and take care to not crease
the paste. Make this skullcap of an even thickness of one-third inch,
and place it in the mould.
Press it well upon the bottom and sides of the mould, that it may
acquire the shape of the latter; line the mould inside with good
buttered paper; fill up with lentils or split peas, letting them
project in a dome above the edges of the paste, and cover with a round
sheet of paper.
Prepare a round layer of paste, one-fifth inch thick, a little larger
diametrally than the timbale one. Slightly moisten the inside edges of
the timbale; cover it with the prepared disc of paste, and seal it well
down to the edges of the timbale, pressing it between the fingers in
such wise as to form a crest reaching one-half inch beyond the brim of
the mould all round.
Pinch this crest with paste-pincers inside and out.
With a round or oval grooved fancy-cutter stamp out some imitation
leaves from a very thin layer of paste, and imitate the veins of
the leaves with the back of a knife; or stamp out some triangles of
paste; shape them like leaves, and set these (slightly overlapping one
another) upon the dome of the timbale in superposed rows.
Finish with three roundels of paste, stamped out with a grooved round
cutter of a different size from the first, and make a hole in the
centre of each roundel with a round, even fancy-cutter. _Gild_ and bake
in a moderate oven. When the outside of the timbale is well browned,
detach and remove the cover formed by the leaves. Withdraw the split
peas and the paper; _gild_ the timbale inside, and leave it to dry in
the front of the oven or in the drying-box.
2395—FLAWN CRUST
With short or any other kind of paste prepare a layer one-sixth inch
thick, the diameter of which should be one-fourth as long again as
that of the flawn-ring used. Raise this layer, and place it upon the
previously-buttered flawn-ring, pressing it with the fingers, that
it may assume the shape of the mould. Then roll the pin across the
ring, in order that the overlapping paste may be cut away; press the
thickness of paste that has been formed between the fingers in such a
way as to make it project above the edges of the flawn-ring, and form
a regular crest. Pinch this crest with the pastry pincers, and set the
flawn-ring on a small round baking sheet.
Prick it with the point of a small knife; line its bottom and sides
with slightly-buttered, good paper; fill the ring with dry lentils or
split peas, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about twenty-five
minutes.
Then remove the lentils and paper, as also the ring, and return the
flawn to the oven for a few minutes to brown, if it is not already
sufficiently coloured.
If the paste be required very dry, place the flawn in the drying-box
for a little while, or _gild_ it inside, and set it in the front of the
oven for a few minutes.
2396—THE LINING AND COVERING OF RAISED AND DRESSED PIES
The moulds for Raised Pies are oval or round. If they are round, make a
layer of patty paste, one-half inch thick, in proportion to the size of
the mould.
Sprinkle this paste with flour, fold it in two, and shape it like a
skullcap, after the manner described under “Timbale Crust.” It is only
necessary to press this skullcap of paste into the buttered mould in
order to give it the shape of the latter. If the mould is oval, proceed
in the same way, giving the skullcap an oval shape.
When the raised pie is filled, first cover the garnish with a somewhat
thin, round, or oval layer of paste, in accordance with the shape of
the mould, and seal it well down upon the moistened edges. Then cut
away the superfluous paste of the crest, so as to make the latter even
and neat, and pinch it outside and in. Raised pies are covered in two
ways—either with a layer of puff-paste, or with leaves of paste stamped
out with a round cutter or a knife, the veins being imitated with the
back of a knife.
In the first case, prepare a layer of puff-paste one-third inch thick,
equal in size to the inside of the patty. Drop this layer of paste upon
the cover of the pie, after having slightly moistened it; _gild_ and
streak it, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam.
In the second case, prepare the paste leaves as directed above, and
lay them on the pie (slightly overlapping one another) in superposed
rows, starting from the bottom. On the top of the pie set three or four
indented roundels of paste, graduated in size, and stuck one upon the
other, each roundel having a hole in its centre for the escape of steam.
_Gild_ and set the pie in the oven.
The baking of raised pies made with raw forcemeat is effected in a
moderately-heated oven. Bear in mind that the larger the pie is, the
more moderate should be the oven.
VARIOUS CUSTARDS
=Hot Custards=
2397—CRÈME ANGLAISE
This custard allows of various methods of preparation which are subject
to the purpose for which it is intended. It is the chief sauce for
entremets, and whether it be poached in a deep dish or in a mould, it
constitutes one of the oldest and best-known entremets. This last kind
of custard will be examined hereafter. At present I shall only deal
with the variety used either as a sauce or an accompaniment, cold or
hot. It is extremely difficult to prescribe fixed quantities for this
custard, for the former depend a great deal upon the consumers’ tastes,
and, whereas some like a thick custard, others go to the extreme of
wishing it just liquid enough to be drunk like any other beverage.
The quantities given below are suited to a custard of medium
consistence, but if a thicker custard were desired, the number of
egg-yolks would have to be proportionately increased, and _vice-versâ_.
The quantity of sugar also varies, subject to the consumers’ tastes,
and, as the amount used (except in the case of unreasonable excess)
does not affect the consistence of the custard, it may be graduated
from three to ten or twelve oz. per quart, as taste may dictate.
Six oz. of sugar per quart of milk constitutes a happy medium.
English custard admits of all the aromatic essences used for
entremets, but the one which suits it best is vanilla. When this
last-named flavour or that of filberts, almond pralin, or coffee is
used, it is well to put the required quantity to infuse for twenty
minutes in the boiling milk, after the latter has been measured off.
Chocolate is first melted and then gradually added to the custard
before it is cooked. Other aromatic essences or liqueurs are added to
the custard after it has been strained.
English custard admits of two methods of preparation:—
_Recipe A._—Put twelve raw egg-yolks and three-quarters lb. of powdered
sugar in a bowl. Mix the sugar a little with the yolks, and stir the
latter briskly with a spatula until they have entirely absorbed the
sugar, and the resulting paste is white and has reached the _ribbon_
stage. Then pour one quart of boiling milk into the paste, little
by little, mixing the whole the while with a whisk. Then put the
preparation on the fire, stirring it with a spatula, and cook it
until it approaches the boil and properly coats the withdrawn spoon.
Take care not to let it boil, for this would turn the preparation.
In any case, when the sauce is intended for hot sweets, by adding a
tablespoonful of arrowroot, it may be prevented from turning.
When the custard is cooked, as already explained, strain it, either
through a strainer, into a _bain-marie_, if it is to be served hot,
or through a sieve into a large, enamelled basin, where it should be
frequently stirred to be kept smooth while cooling.
Custard prepared in this way forms the base of all ice-creams, of which
I shall speak later on. It may serve as an adjunct to all cold or
hot sweets which allow of a sauce. When, while it is still lukewarm,
it is combined with its weight of best butter, it constitutes the
delicious butter cream, which is the richest and most delicate of the
pastry-cook’s confections.
Finally, if eight melted gelatine leaves per quart of cooled milk be
added to it, and it be mixed with twice its volume of whipped cream,
it represents the preparation for “Cream Bavarois” and “Russian
Charlottes.”
_Recipe B._—Melt six oz. of sugar in one quart of milk; boil, and
pour the mixture, little by little, over twelve egg-yolks, whisking
the latter briskly the while. When this custard is to be moulded, or
is intended for a Cabinet Pudding, or some other similar preparation,
which must be ultimately poached, strain it as soon as it is mixed,
without cooking it.
If, on the other hand, it be intended for an accompaniment, or for the
preparation of butter creams or ices, cook it as directed in Recipe A.
2398—DISHED ENGLISH CUSTARD (To Accompany Cold or Hot Stewed Fruit)
For this purpose English custard is made from only ten egg-yolks per
quart of milk. Serve it in shallow silver or porcelain dishes; sprinkle
its surface copiously with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a
red-hot iron.
2399—FRANGIPAN CREAM
As in the case of English custard, Frangipan custard varies in the
quantities of its ingredients in accordance with its purpose and the
taste of its consumers. The recipe given below is an average one,
which the reader will be able to modify, in regard to consistence, by
increasing or decreasing the amount of flour.
Mix one-half lb. of powdered sugar, two oz. of flour, two whole eggs,
and the yolks of five in a basin. Pour one pint of boiling milk over
this paste, stirring it briskly the while; add a grain of salt and
the selected aromatic essence, and set the saucepan on the fire, that
the Frangipan may cook. Do not cease stirring this cream while it is
cooking, for it easily burns.
Let it boil a few minutes; pour it into a bowl, and combine three oz.
of fresh butter and two tablespoonfuls of dry, crushed macaroons with
it. When the whole is well mixed, smooth the surface of the custard
with a well-buttered spoon, so that no crust may form while the cooling
progresses.
2400—FRANGIPAN FOR FRIED CREAM
Proceed as above, but so apportion the quantities as to obtain a very
firm cream. The quantities should be as follows:—Six oz. of flour,
six oz. of sugar, ten egg-yolks, four whole eggs, one quart of milk,
and one oz. of butter.
When this cream is cooked, spread it in a layer one inch thick on a
buttered tray or on a marble slab; carefully butter its surface, and
let it cool before using it.
=Cold Custards=
2401—PASTRY CREAM
Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with four oz. of flour and twelve
egg-yolks, and dilute with one quart of boiling milk. Cook this cream,
stirring it continually the while; and, as soon as it boils, add to it
a few drops of orange-flower water and four gelatine leaves, softened
in cold water. Boil the cream a few minutes; take it off the fire, and,
while stirring it briskly, carefully combine with it twelve egg-whites,
beaten to a stiff froth.
N.B.—Some operators call this St. Honoré cream (for, as a matter of
fact, it serves chiefly in the garnishing of sweets bearing that name),
and give the name of Pastry cream to the same preparation minus the
egg-whites and the gelatine. I prefer to abide by the principle given
above, and to consider the cream without whisked egg-whites merely as a
Frangipan, with which it has many points in common.
Pastry cream may be flavoured according to fancy. The addition of the
gelatine is not necessary when the cream is to be served immediately,
or when it only has a moment or two to wait. But it is indispensable
to prevent the decomposition of the preparation, especially in hot
weather, if it have to wait at all.
2402—WHIPPED OR CHANTILLY CREAM
Nothing could be simpler or more exquisite than this preparation, which
is obtained by whipping the best cream (kept fresh for twenty-four
hours in ice) over ice. The cream speedily increases in volume and
becomes frothy. The operation should then be stopped, lest the cream
turn to butter, and there should be immediately added to the former
four oz. of powdered sugar (part of which should be the vanilla kind)
per quart, and then the preparation should be placed in the cool until
required.
N.B.—The addition of a little dissolved or powdered tragacanth gum to
the cream allows of a more frothy cream being obtained, but the result
is neither as fresh nor as perfect in taste when it is not combined
with a sweet or ice preparation.
=Various Preparations for Entremets=
2403—PREPARATIONS FOR PANCAKES AND PANNEQUETS
_Preparation A._—Put into a basin one lb. of sifted flour, six oz. of
powdered sugar, and a pinch of table-salt. Dilute with ten eggs and one
quart of milk, added by degrees. Flavour with one heaped tablespoonful
of orange, lemon or vanilla sugar, which should form part of the total
weight of sugar prescribed; or with one-eighth pint of some liqueur
such as brandy, kirsch, rum, &c., which should form part of the total
moistening.
_Preparation B._—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and one-half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, with nine eggs and a half-pint of
cream. Add one-eighth pint of brandy, two and a half-oz. of melted
butter and one and a half-pints of milk. Pass the whole through a fine
strainer, and finish it with one-eighth pint of _orgeat_ syrup (or
almond milk) and three oz. of finely-crushed macaroons.
_Preparation C._—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of table salt in nine eggs. Stir the mixture
well; add to it a half-pint of raw cream and one pint of milk. Finish
with a half-pint of whipped cream, and flavour as fancy may suggest.
_Preparation D._—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, in five eggs and the yolks of
three. Add one and three-quarter pints of milk and five egg-whites
whisked to a stiff froth.
Flavour according to fancy.
2404—RICE PREPARATION FOR ENTREMETS
Wash one lb. of Carolina or Patna rice; cover it with plenty of cold
water; boil, and drain it the moment it has boiled. Wash it once more
in lukewarm water; drain it, and set it to cook with two pints of
boiled milk, two-thirds lb. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of
butter.
Flavour with a stick of vanilla or a few strips of orange or lemon
rind, strung together with cotton. When the liquor begins to boil,
cover the saucepan; place it in the oven, and let it cook gently for
twenty or twenty-five minutes, without once touching the rice the while.
On withdrawing it from the oven, thicken it with the yolks of sixteen
eggs, which should be mixed with it by means of a fork in such wise as
not to break the rice grains, which ought to remain whole.
N.B.—In some cases, the milk and the sugar may be replaced (for the
cooking process) by an equal amount of syrup at 12° (Saccharometer).
2405—SOUFFLÉ PREPARATIONS
Soufflé preparations are of two kinds:—
(1) Those prepared with cream, which if necessary may serve for all
_soufflés_; (2) those with a fruit-purée base, which allow of a more
pronounced flavour for fruit _soufflés_ than if these were prepared
with cream.
_Cream-soufflé Preparation for Four People._—Boil one-sixth pint of
milk with one oz. of sugar; add a tablespoonful of flour diluted in a
little cold milk; cook for two minutes, and finish, away from the fire,
with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and two egg-yolks with
three whites whisked to a stiff froth.
_Soufflé Preparation for a Big Party._—Thoroughly mix half-lb. of
flour, half-lb. of sugar, four eggs and the yolks of three, in a
saucepan. Dilute with one quart of boiling milk; add a stick of
vanilla; boil, and cook for two minutes, stirring incessantly the while.
Finish, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter, five egg-yolks,
and twelve whites, whisked to a very stiff froth.
_Soufflé Preparation with a Fruit Base._—Take one lb. of sugar cooked
to the _small-crack_ stage; add thereto one lb. of the pulp or purée of
the fruit under treatment, and ten egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.
Proceed thus: Having cooked the sugar to the extent stated above, add
to it the fruit pulp. If the latter reduces the sugar a stage or two,
cook it afresh in order to return it to the _small-crack_ stage; and,
when this is reached, pour it over the whites.
_Dishing and Cooking of Soufflés._—Whatever the soufflés may consist
of, dish them in a timbale, or in a special false-bottomed dish,
buttered and sugared inside. Cook in a somewhat moderate oven, that the
heat may reach the centre of the soufflé by degrees.
Two minutes before withdrawing the soufflé from the oven, sprinkle it
with icing sugar, which, when it becomes caramel upon the surface of
the soufflé, constitutes the glazing.
The decoration of soufflés is optional, and, in any case, should not be
overdone.
=Hot Sauces for Entremets=
2406—ENGLISH SAUCE
See the Custard recipe (No. 2397).
2407—CHOCOLATE SAUCE
Dissolve half-lb. of grated chocolate in two-thirds pint of water. Add
a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar; cook gently for twenty-five minutes,
and complete at the last moment with three tablespoonfuls of cream and
a piece of best butter, the size of a walnut.
2408—SABAYON
Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with twelve egg-yolks, in a basin, until
the mixture has whitened slightly. Dilute with one quart of dry, white
wine; pour the whole in a narrow _bain-marie_, which should be placed
in a receptacle containing boiling water, and whisk it until it is four
times its former size, and is firm and frothy.
N.B.—Sabayon may also be made with milk instead of white wine, and it
may be flavoured according to fancy.
2409—FRUIT SAUCE
Apricots, red-currants, greengages and mirabelle plums are the best
fruits for sweet sauces. Other fruits, such as peaches, William pears,
apples, &c., may also be used in the form of light purées or cullises.
2410—APRICOT SAUCE
Rub some very ripe or stewed apricots through a sieve, and thin the
purée with the required quantity of syrup at 28° (Saccharom.). Boil,
skimming carefully the while; take off the fire when the sauce veneers
the withdrawn spoon, and flavour according to fancy.
If this sauce is to be used with crusts, a little best butter may be
added to it.
2411—RED-CURRANT SAUCE
Melt some red-currant jelly and flavour it with kirsch.
This sauce may be slightly thickened with arrowroot.
2412—SAUCE ORANGE
Rub some orange marmalade through a sieve; add thereto one-third of its
bulk of apricot sauce, and flavour with curaçao.
2413—HAZEL-NUT SAUCE
Flavour some English custard with an infusion of grilled hazel-nuts,
and add two tablespoonfuls of moulded filbert _pralin_ per quart of
custard.
2414—GREENGAGE OR MIRABELLE SAUCE
Proceed as for apricot sauce and flavour with kirsch.
2415—CHERRY SAUCE
Take the syrup of some stewed cherries, add an equal quantity of
red-currant jelly, and flavour with kirsch.
2416—RASPBERRY SAUCE
Take the required quantity of melted raspberry jelly; thicken it
slightly with arrowroot, and flavour with kirsch.
2417—STRAWBERRY SAUCE
Proceed as for No. 2416.
2418—THICKENED SYRUPS
These accompaniments of sweets, which are commonly used in Germany,
have this in their favour, that they are economical; but they should
be used in moderation. To make them, take some syrup at 15°, thickened
with arrowroot, coloured according to the purpose for which it is
required, and flavoured with some liqueur or essence at the last moment.
It is with this kind of sauce that flawns and all other sorts of
tartlets are coated in northern countries.
HOT SWEETS
=Fritters=
The numerous fritter recipes for sweets may all be grouped into five
leading classes, viz.:—
(1) Fruit fritters.
(2) Custard fritters.
(3) Viennese fritters.
(4) Souffléd fritters.
(5) Sundry other fritters which are more or less like the four former
ones without entirely resembling them.
2419—_Class 1._ FRESH FRUIT AND FLOWER FRITTERS
Subject to the treatment undergone by them, fruits for fritters are of
two kinds: firm fruits, such as apples and pears, and aqueous fruits,
such as strawberries, &c.
2420—FRITTERS OF FRUIT WITH FIRM PULPS _Ex._ APRICOT FRITTERS
Select some apricots that are not over-ripe; cut them in two; sprinkle
them with sugar, and set them to macerate for an hour in kirsch,
brandy, or rum, subject to the consumers’ tastes. A few minutes before
serving, dry the halved apricots, dip them in batter (No. 234), and fry
them in hot fat. Drain them on a napkin; set the fritters on a tray;
cover them with icing sugar, and glaze them in a hot oven or at the
salamander. Dish them on a napkin, and serve them at once.
N.B.—Proceed in precisely the same way for Apple, Pear, Peach, or
Banana fritters.
2421—AQUEOUS-FRUIT FRITTERS _Ex._ STRAWBERRY FRITTERS
Select some large, somewhat firm strawberries; sugar them copiously;
sprinkle them with kirsch, and let them macerate on ice for thirty
minutes.
It is most essential that the strawberries be well sugared before
macerating, because the heat of the fat sours them while the fritters
are being fried, and they consequently become tart.
A few minutes before serving, drain the strawberries, dip them in
batter (No. 234), and plunge them into very hot fat. Drain them, dish
them on lace paper, and sprinkle them with icing sugar, by means of a
dredger.
N.B.—The procedure is the same for Raspberry, Red-currant, Cherry,
Orange, and Tangerine fritters. For the last-named, it is better to
quarter them and peel them raw, than to slice them.
2422—FLOWER FRITTERS. _Ex._ ACACIA-FLOWER FRITTERS
Select some blown acacia flowers; besprinkle them with sugar and
liqueur brandy, and leave them to macerate for thirty minutes.
Dip them in batter (No. 234); plunge them into plenty of hot fat; drain
them; sprinkle them with best sugar and dish them on a napkin.
N.B.—Proceed as above for Elder-flower, Lily, and
Vegetable-marrow-flower fritters; but in the case of the last two, the
quartered corollæ, alone, are used.
2423—CUSTARD FRITTERS OR FRIED CREAM
Custard fritters may be prepared in the three following totally
different ways.
_1st Method._—Cut up preparation No. 2400 with a round, square, or
lozenge-shaped fancy cutter, as taste may dictate. Treat the resulting
pieces of custard twice _à l’anglaise_, using very fine and fresh
bread-crumbs for the purpose. Press upon the bread-crumbs with the
blade of a knife that they may adhere properly, and fry the pieces of
cream in very hot fat. On taking the fritters out of the fat sprinkle
them with icing sugar, and dish them on a napkin.
N.B.—Instead of treating these fritters _à l’anglaise_, they may be
dipped into batter and treated as directed in the case of Apricot
fritters.
_2nd Method._—Prepare a custard as for a “crème renversée” (No. 2639),
using only whole eggs, that it may be firm; and poach it in a utensil
of a shape which will facilitate the cutting-up of the preparation.
When the latter is quite cool, cut it up as fancy may suggest; dip the
pieces in batter (No. 234) and plunge them in plenty of hot fat. Drain
them on a piece of linen; sprinkle them with icing sugar; glaze them in
a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.
_3rd Method._—Prepare some common-shaped meringues, and keep them very
dry.
When they have cooled, open them slightly on top, and, through the hole
in each, fill them either with a Bavarois preparation, with some kind
of ice-cream, or with a fruit _salpicon_ thickened with stewed apricots
or plums. Close the holes with the pieces that were cut out, and place
the meringues in the refrigerator for an hour.
When about to serve them, quickly treat them _à l’anglaise_; set them
(opened side uppermost) in a frying-basket, and dip them for a few
seconds in smoking fat. Withdraw them as soon as their crusts have
acquired a golden colour; sprinkle them with icing sugar; dish them on
a napkin, and serve them immediately.
2424—VIENNESE FRITTERS
Quantities for the paste of Viennese fritters: one lb. of flour;
six oz. of butter; half oz. of yeast; five eggs; half oz. of salt;
two-third oz. of sugar; and one-sixth pint of milk. This paste is
prepared exactly like Brioche paste (No. 2368).
In any case, as it has to be worked with the rolling-pin, always keep
it a little firm.
2425—HOT VIENNESE FRITTERS
Roll out a piece of the paste given above to a thickness of one-fifth
inch.
Spread upon it, at regular intervals, small quantities (about the size
of a large walnut) either of stewed fruit or jam. Moisten slightly;
cover with a second layer of paste, of the same size and thickness as
the former; press upon it with the back of a round cutter, so as to
ensure the joining of the two layers of paste, and then stamp the whole
out with an even cutter two and a half inches in diameter.
Set the fritters on a tray covered with a flour-dusted piece of linen;
let the paste ferment for thirty minutes, and then fry them in plenty
of hot fat. Drain them; sprinkle them with icing sugar and dish them on
a napkin.
N.B.—These fritters may be accompanied by frothy sauces, flavoured with
vanilla, lemon, orange, coffee, or kirsch, &c., the type of which is
the Sabayon with cream.
2426—COLD VIENNESE FRITTERS
Roll out a piece of the paste prescribed, which should be kept somewhat
soft, and stamp it out with a round cutter two and a half inches in
diameter. Set half of these roundels of paste on buttered sheets of
paper, lying on trays; garnish them either with stewed fruit or jam;
slightly moisten their edges; cover them with the remaining roundels of
paste, and let the paste ferment for thirty minutes.
A few minutes before serving, grasp the ends of the sheets of paper;
plunge the fritters into plenty of hot fat, and withdraw the sheets of
paper as soon as the fritters fall from them.
Drain them as soon as they begin to colour; and plunge them immediately
into a light, hot syrup, flavoured as fancy may dictate. Withdraw them
as soon as they are beginning to be saturated, and serve them cold.
N.B.—In the case of either of these two methods of serving Viennese
fritters, the latter, which are served under the name of “fritters
à la Dauphine,” may be garnished with fruit _salpicons_ or cream
preparations.
=Souffléd Fritters=
2427—ORDINARY SOUFFLÉD FRITTERS
Put one pint of water, three and a half oz. of butter, a pinch of salt
and two pinches of sugar into a saucepan. Boil; take the utensil off
the fire in order to add two-thirds lb. of sifted flour, and mix up the
whole. Then dry this paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 2373); and
finish it, away from the fire, with seven eggs, added one by one.
Flavour according to taste.
Take this paste in portions, the size of small walnuts; put these
portions in moderately hot fat, and gradually increase the heat of the
latter, so as to ensure the rising of the paste.
When the fritters are quite dry outside, drain them; dish them on a
napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
2428—SOUFFLÉD FRITTERS “EN SURPRISE”
Prepare the fritters exactly like the preceding ones. When taking
them out of the fat, open them slightly and garnish them, by means of
the piping-bag, either with stewed fruit, jam, a very fine, thickened
_salpicon_ of fruit, or some kind of cream, especially frangipan or
pastry cream.
=Various Fritters=
2429—PINEAPPLE FRITTERS “A LA FAVORITE”
Cut the pineapple into roundels, one-third inch thick; cut each
roundel in two; sprinkle the half-discs with sugar and kirsch, and
let them macerate for thirty minutes. Then dry them and dip them into
a very thick and almost cold frangipan cream, combined with chopped
pistachios. Set the cream-coated roundels on a tray, and let them cool
completely.
A little while before serving, detach the roundels from the tray; dip
them in somewhat thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.
Drain them; sprinkle them with icing sugar; glaze them in a fierce
oven, and dish them on a napkin.
2430—FRITTERS “A LA BOURGEOISE”
Cut a stale brioche crown into slices, one-third inch thick, and dip
these into fresh, sugared cream, flavoured according to fancy. Drain
them; dry them slightly; dip them into thin batter, and fry them in
very hot fat.
Drain them; sprinkle them with sugar, and dish them on a napkin.
2431—SYLVANA FRITTERS
Hollow out some small round brioches, preserving the crusts for covers,
and dip them in some thin, sugared and flavoured fresh cream. Then
garnish them with a small fruit _salpicon_ with kirsch; cover this with
the reserved covers; dip them into thin batter, and fry them in plenty
of hot fat.
Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
2432—FRITTERS “A LA GRAND-MÈRE”
Spread upon a moistened tray a layer half inch thick of very reduced,
stewed fruit. Cut it up according to fancy; dip the pieces in batter
(No. 234), and fry them in plenty of hot fat.
On withdrawing the fritters from the fat, sprinkle them with icing
sugar and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.
2433—REGINA FRITTERS
Shape some lady’s-finger biscuits (preparation No. 2378) into large
half-balls, one and a half inch in diameter; bake these in a moderate
oven and cool them. Then hollow out these half-balls; garnish them with
apricot or some other jam; join them in couples, and dip them so as to
thoroughly soak them in some fresh cream flavoured with maraschino.
Drain them; treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs, and
fry them in plenty of hot fat.
Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
2434—MINION FRITTERS
Proceed as above, but substitute for biscuit half-balls soft macaroons,
saturated with kirsch syrup. For the rest of the operation, follow the
procedure of No. 2433.
2435—FRITTERS A LA SUZON
Make a preparation of “rice for entremets,” and spread it in a thin
layer upon a tray, to cool. Divide it up into discs three and a half
inches in diameter; garnish the centre of these with a very stiff fruit
_salpicon_; roll the discs into balls, so as to enclose the _salpicon_;
dip these balls into thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.
Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
=Charlottes=
2436—APPLE CHARLOTTE
Copiously butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Garnish its bottom with
heart-shaped _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, slightly overlapping one
another; and garnish its sides with rectangles of bread of exactly the
same height as the mould, and also slightly overlapping one another.
The _croûtons_ and the rectangles should be one-eighth inch thick, and
ought to have been dipped in melted butter before taking their place in
the mould.
Meanwhile, quarter twelve fine russet apples; peel, slice, and cook
them in a sautépan with one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar, and half the rind of a lemon and a little cinnamon—both
tied into a faggot.
When the apples are cooked, and reduced to a thick purée, remove the
faggot of aromatics and add three tablespoonfuls of stewed apricots.
Fill up the mould with this preparation, and remember to shape the
latter in a projecting dome above the mould; for it settles in cooking.
Bake in a good, moderate oven for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.
2437—CHARLOTTE DE POMMES, EMILE GIRET
Prepare the Charlotte as directed above, but in a shallow mould.
When it is moulded on the dish, completely cover it with an even coat,
half inch thick, of very firm “pastry cream” (No. 2401), and take care
not to spoil the shape of the Charlotte.
Sprinkle the cream copiously with icing sugar; then, with a red-hot
iron, criss-cross the Charlotte regularly all round; pressing the iron
upon the sugar-sprinkled cream.
Surround the base of the Charlotte with a row of beads made by means of
the piping-bag, from the same cream as that already used.
2438—VARIOUS CHARLOTTES
Charlottes may be made with pears, peaches, apricots, &c., after the
same procedure as that directed under No. 2436. The most important
point to be remembered in their preparation is that the stewed fruit
used should be very stiff; otherwise it so softens the shell of bread
that the Charlotte collapses as soon as it is turned out.
It is no less important that the mould should be as full as possible of
the preparation used; for, as already explained, the latter settles in
the cooking process.
2439—CRÈME A LA RÉGENCE
Saturate half a pound of “Biscuits à la Cuiller” with Maraschino-Kirsch,
and then dip them into a quart of boiled milk. Rub them through a silk
sieve, and add eight eggs, ten egg-yolks, two-thirds pound of powdered
sugar and a small pinch of table salt. Pour the whole into a shallow,
Charlotte mould, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_ for about
thirty-five minutes.
Let the mould rest for a few minutes; turn out its contents on a dish
and surround the base of the cream with a crown of stewed half-apricots,
each garnished with a preserved cherry. Coat the whole with an apricot
syrup, flavoured with Kirsch and Maraschino.
2440—CRÈME MERINGUÉE
Prepare some “Crème à la Régence” as above, and poach it in a buttered
deep border-mould. Poach in a _bain-marie_; turn out on a dish, and
garnish the middle of the border with Italian meringue (No. 2383),
combined with a _salpicon_ of preserved fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
Decorate the border by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved
pipe and filled with plain, Italian meringue, without the fruit; and
set to brown in a moderate oven.
Serve an orange-flavoured, English custard separately.
2441—VILLAGE CUSTARD
Saturate five ounces of dry biscuits with Kirsch and Anisette, and set
them in a deep dish in layers, alternated with coatings of stewed,
seasonable fruit, such as pears, apples, etc.
Cover the whole with the following preparation: one-half pound of
powdered sugar mixed with eight eggs and the yolks of four, and diluted
with one and three-quarter pints of milk. Poach in a _bain-marie_, in
the oven.
2442—CUSTARD PUDDING
Custard pudding is a form of the English custard mentioned under
No. 2397.
The difference between the two is that for the former whole eggs are
used instead of the yolks alone, and that it is prepared according to
the second method only. The average quantities for the preparation are:
Six eggs and six ounces of sugar per quart of milk. The custard is
cooked in pie-dishes in a _bain-marie_, which should be placed in the
oven or in a steamer.
According as to whether the custard be required milky or thick, the
number of eggs is either lessened or increased. In regard to the sugar,
the guide should be the consumers’ tastes. If necessary, it may be
suppressed altogether, and saccharine or glycerine may be used in its
stead, as is customary for diabetic patients.
Custard is generally flavoured with vanilla, but any other flavour
suited to sweets may be used with it.
=Pancakes.= (See preparations No. 2403.)
2443—CONVENT PANCAKES
Pour into a buttered and hot omelet-pan some preparation A, sprinkle
thereon some William pears, cut into small dice; cover the latter with
some more preparation A; toss the pancake in order to turn it; sprinkle
it with powdered sugar, dish it on a napkin and serve it burning-hot.
2444—GEORGETTE PANCAKES
Proceed as for Convent pancakes, but substitute for pear-dice some very
thin slices of pine-apple, macerated in Maraschino.
2445—GIL-BLAS PANCAKES
Make the following preparation: work three ounces of best butter in a
bowl until it acquires the consistence of a pomade. Mix therewith three
ounces of powdered sugar, three tablespoonfuls of liqueur brandy, a
piece of butter the size of a filbert, and a few drops of lemon juice.
Make the pancakes with preparation C; spread the prepared butter upon
them; fold each pancake twice, and dish them on a napkin.
2446—PANCAKES A LA NORMANDE
Proceed as for Convent Pancakes, but for the pear dice substitute fine
slices of apple, previously _sautéd_ in butter.
2447—PANCAKES A LA PARISIENNE
These are made from preparation B, and are ungarnished.
2448—PANCAKES A LA PAYSANNE
Make these from preparation B (the _orgeat_ syrup and the macaroons
being suppressed), and flavour with orange-flower water.
2449—PANCAKES A LA RUSSE
Add to preparation C, a quarter of its volume of broken biscuits
saturated with kümmel and liqueur brandy, and make the pancakes in the
usual way.
2450—SUZETTE PANCAKES
Make these from preparation A, flavoured with curaçao and tangerine
juice. Coat them, like Gil-Blas pancakes, with softened butter,
flavoured with curaçao and tangerine juice.
=Croquettes.=
2451—CHESTNUT CROQUETTES
Peel the chestnuts after one of the ways directed (No. 2172), and cook
them in a thin syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Reserve one small, whole
chestnut for each croquette. Rub the remainder through a sieve; dry the
purée over a fierce fire, and thicken it with five egg-yolks and one
and a half oz. of butter per lb. of purée. Let it cool.
Then divide the preparation up into portions the size of pigeons’ eggs,
and roll these portions into balls, with a chestnut in the centre of
each.
Treat them _à l’anglaise_ with some very fine bread-crumbs; fry them in
some very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin.
Serve a vanilla-flavoured apricot sauce, separately.
2452—RICE CROQUETTES
Make a preparation as directed under No. 2404. Divide it up into
two-oz. portions, moulded to the shape of such fruit as pears apples,
apricots, etc.; treat these _à l’anglaise_, like the chestnut
croquettes, and fry them in the same way.
Serve an apricot sauce or a vanilla-flavoured Sabayon separately.
2453—VARIOUS CROQUETTES
Croquettes may also be made from tapioca, semolina, vermicelli or
fresh noodles, etc., in which case the procedure is that of the Rice
Croquettes.
The preparation may be combined with currants and sultanas, and the
croquettes are served with any suitable sauce.
=Crusts.=
2454—CROÛTE AUX FRUITS
Cut some slices one-fifth inch thick from a stale Savarin which has not
been moistened with syrup, and allow two for each person. Set these
slices on a tray; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and put them in the
oven so as to dry and glaze them at the same time. Arrange them in a
circle round a cushion of fried bread-crumbs, and between each lay a
slice of pine-apple of exactly the same size as the slices.
Upon this crown of crusts, set some quartered apples and some stewed
pears. The pears may be stewed in a pinkish syrup, which, by varying
the colours, makes the croûte more sightly.
Decorate with preserved cherries, lozenges of angelica, quartered
yellow and green _chinois_, etc. Fix a small, turned and white or pink
pear on the top of the cushion, by means of a _hatelet_, and coat with
an apricot sauce, flavoured with Kirsch.
2455—CROÛTE A LA LYONNAISE
Prepare the crusts as described above, and coat them with a smooth
chestnut purée, flavoured with vanilla; then, cover them with an
apricot purée, cooked to the _small-thread_ stage; sprinkle with
finely-splintered and slightly-browned almonds, and dish in a circle.
Garnish the middle of the circle with chestnuts cooked in syrup, and
pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (washed and swelled in
tepid water); the whole cohered with an apricot purée thinned with a
few tablespoonsful of Malaga wine.
2456—CROÛTE AU MADÈRE
Dish the glazed crusts in a circle as already described. Pour into
their midst a garnish consisting of equal parts of pipped, Malaga
raisins, currants, and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and moistened
with a Madeira-flavoured, apricot syrup.
2457—CROÛTE A LA MARÉCHALE
Cut from a stale _mousseline_ brioche, some triangles of the same
thickness as the ordinary crusts. Coat them with _pralin_ (No. 2352),
and then set them on a tray; sprinkle them with sugar glaze, and dry
the _pralin_ in a moderate oven.
Stick a fried-bread-crumb cushion, four inches high, on a dish, and
surround it with a _salpicon_ of pineapple, raisins, cherries, and
sugared orange-rind, cohered with some stiff stewed apples, combined
with a little apricot purée. Set the _pralin_-coated triangles upright
alongside of the _salpicon_, and surround them with a border of
half-pears, stewed in syrup, half their quantity being white and the
other pink.
On the top of the cushion, set a small pear, cooked in pink syrup,
which fix with a small _hatelet_, surround the border of half-pears
with a thread of apricot purée, flavoured slightly with vanilla, and
serve a sauceboat of the same purée separately.
2458—CROÛTE A LA NORMANDE
Prepare the crusts as indicated under No. 2454, coat them with very
stiffly stewed apples, and dish them in a circle.
Garnish their midst with stewed apples, prepared as for a Charlotte,
and upon the apples set a pyramid of quartered, white and pink apples,
cooked in syrup. Cover with reduced apple syrup, thickened with a
little very smooth stewed apples flavoured with Kirsch or old rum.
2459—CROÛTE A LA PARISIENNE
Coat the crusts with _pralin_, as explained under No. 2457, and dish
them in a circle. In their midst set some thin slices of pine-apple,
the ends of which should rest upon the circle of crusts; in the middle,
pour a garnish of various fruits, cohered with an apricot purée,
flavoured with Madeira, and coat the circle of crusts with apricot
syrup flavoured with Madeira.
2460—CROÛTE AUX ABRICOTS AU MARASQUIN
Cook some Savarin paste in buttered tartlet moulds. When these tartlets
are cooked, hollow them out at the top, taking care to leave a somewhat
thick border all round.
Coat them inside with _pralin_ (No. 2352), and dry them in a moderate
oven. Then garnish the centre of the tartlets with frangipan cream,
combined with filbert _pralin_. Upon this cream set a stoned apricot
poached in Maraschino.
Surround the apricot with small, candied half-cherries, alternated
with lozenges of angelica. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with
Maraschino, separately.
2461—CROÛTE VICTORIA
Prepare a crust after No. 2456, and garnish the centre with candied
cherries and glazed chestnuts. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with
rum, separately.
OMELETS.
Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, which are:—
1. Liqueur omelets.
2. Jam omelets.
3. Souffléd omelets.
4. Surprise omelets.
=Omelets with Liqueur.=
2462—_Example_: OMELET WITH RUM
Season the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the
usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated
rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.
=Jam Omelets.=
2463—_Example_: APRICOT OMELET
Season the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it
inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on
a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the
surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.
2464—XMAS OMELET
Beat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs: two
tablespoonfuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one
tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish it
copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish; sprinkle it with
heated rum, and set it alight at the table.
=Souffléd Omelets.=
2465—_Example_: SOUFFLÉD OMELET WITH VANILLA
Mix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the
mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the spatula
is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth,
and mix the two preparations gently; cutting and raising the whole with
the spoon.
Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish, in the
shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it aside in a
piping-bag.
Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife; decorate according to
fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook in a good, moderate
oven, for as long as the size of the omelet requires.
Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it with
icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the omelet with a
brilliant coat.
Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind,
rum, Kirsch, &c.; but remember to add the selected flavour to the
preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.
=Surprise Omelets.=
2466—_Example_: NORWEGIAN OMELET
Place an oval cushion one and one half in. thick of _Génoise_ upon a
long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired omelet. Upon
this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit. Cover the ice-cream
with ordinary meringue (No. 2382); smooth it with a knife, making it of
an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch in so doing; decorate it, by
means of the piping-bag, with the same meringue, and set in a very hot
oven, that the meringue may cook and colour quickly, without the heat
reaching the ice inside.
2467—SURPRISE OMELET MYLORD
Proceed as directed above; but garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with
coats of vanilla ice-cream, alternated with coats of stewed pears.
Cover with meringue and cook in the same way.
2468—CHINESE SURPRISE OMELET
The procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is replaced by
tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven, surround it with
tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to the _large-crack_ stage.
2469—SURPRISE OMELET WITH CHERRIES
Garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with red-currant ice, flavoured
with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of cherry ice and
half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.
Finish it like the Norwegian Omelet.
On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with drained
cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with heated Kirsch, to
which set a light at the table.
2470—SURPRISE OMELET MILADY: also called MILADY PEACH
This is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm raspberry ice, in
which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached in vanilla.
The whole is then covered with Italian meringue, flavoured with
Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of the peaches
which project from the glaze remain bare.
Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue; sprinkle it
with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.
2471—SURPRISE OMELET “A LA NAPOLITAINE” otherwise “BOMBE VESUVE”
Garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with coats of vanilla and strawberry
ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chestnut. Cover the
whole with Italian meringue prepared with Kirsch, which keep flat and
somewhat thick towards the centre. On top, set a _barquette_ of a size
in proportion to the omelet, made by means of the piping-bag with
ordinary meringue and baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate
with Italian meringue, covering the _barquette_ in so doing, and
quickly brown the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the
omelet with Jubilee cherries (No. 2566), which set alight at the last
moment.
2472—SURPRISE OMELET ELIZABETH
Garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with vanilla ice and
crystallised-violets.
Cover it with meringue; decorate its surface with crystallised-violets,
and treat the omelet as in No. 2466.
When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of spun sugar.
2473—SURPRISE OMELET “A L’ISLANDAISE”
Make the cushion of _Génoise_ round instead of oval; set it on a round
dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which should be shaped like
a truncated cone. Cover with meringue; set a small case on the top,
made from meringue, as explained under No. 2471, but round instead of
oval; conceal all but its inside with meringue, decorating the omelet
in so doing, and set to brown quickly.
When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into the meringue
case and set it alight.
2474—SYLPHS’ OMELET
Dip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and stick it
on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.
In the centre of the savarin set a cushion of _Génoise_ sufficiently
thick to reach half-way up the former.
At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced strawberry
_mousse_, made in an iced _madeleine-mould_, the diameter of which
should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover the _mousse_ with a
coat of Italian meringue with kirsch, shaping it like a cone of which
the base rests upon the top of the savarin.
By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly decorate
the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue; colour it in the
oven, and serve it instantly.
2475—VARIOUS SURPRISE OMELETS
With the generic example given this kind of omelets may be indefinitely
varied by changing the ice preparation inside.
The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change in the
inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.
=Pannequets.=
2476—PANNEQUETS WITH JAM
Prepare some very thin pancakes; coat them with some kind of jam, roll
them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them into two lozenges.
Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, set
them to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.
2477—PANNEQUETS A LA CRÈME
Coat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the latter with
crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure follow No. 2476.
2478—PANNEQUETS MERINGUÉS
Coat the pancakes with Italian meringue, flavoured with kirsch and
maraschino; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above, and set
them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-bag with the
same meringue; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and set them to colour
quickly in the oven.
2479—PUDDINGS
English puddings are almost innumerable; but many of them lie more
within the pastrycook’s than the cook’s province, and their enumeration
here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name Pudding is,
moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which are really
nothing more than custards—as, for example, “custard pudding.” If both
of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over, puddings proper
which belong to hot sweets may be divided into eight classes, of
which I shall first give the generic recipes, from which all pudding
entremets given hereafter are derived. The eight classes are:—
(1) Puddings with cream.
(2) Fruit puddings.
(3) English fruit puddings.
(4) Plum puddings.
(5) French and German bread puddings.
(6) English and French paste puddings.
(7) Rice puddings.
(8) Souffléd puddings.
Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in
each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by
stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”
=Puddings with Cream.=
2480—ALMOND PUDDING
Make a preparation for souffléd pudding (No. 2505), moistened with
almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside
with splintered and grilled almonds.
Set to poach in the _bain-marie_. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon
prepared with white wine and flavoured with _orgeat_.
2481—ENGLISH ALMOND PUDDING
Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of
powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of
table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two
egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a
buttered pie-dish, and cook in a _bain-marie_ in the oven.
N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or
basins in which they have cooked.
2482—BISCUIT PUDDING
Crush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten
them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir
the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into
dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in
kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of
five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Set to poach in a _bain-marie_, in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a
pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.
2483—CABINET PUDDING
Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or
slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur;
arranging them in alternate layers with a _salpicon_ of candied fruit
and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little
apricot jam.
Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No. 2639,
flavoured according to fancy. Poach in a _bain-marie_.
Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English
custard flavoured with vanilla.
2484—FRUIT PUDDING
This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves
as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is
thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This
preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the
pudding.
_Procedure_: Butter a mould; set it in a _bain-marie_, and pour a few
table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon
this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit
may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat
of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard
set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until
the mould is full.
It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot
instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were
not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead
of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result
would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.
Continue the cooking in the _bain-marie_; let the preparation stand a
few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce
made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.
=English Fruit Puddings.=
2485—APPLE PUDDING
Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped
suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.
Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of
one-third of an inch.
With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large
pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and
flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.
Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould
in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string;
plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in the case of
a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.
N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with
certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.
2486—PLUM PUDDING
Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb;
half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb.
each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied
orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger;
four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice
and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz.
of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs;
quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout.
The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for
a long time.
Thoroughly mix the whole.
Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with
projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered
and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.
Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.
When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum,
and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum,
with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without
sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.
2487—AMERICAN PUDDING
Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of
powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and
an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit
cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange
or lemon zest; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of
brandy or rum.
Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged
mould or basin, and cook in the _bain-marie_.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.
2488—MARROW PUDDING
Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in a _bain-marie_,
and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb.
of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and
pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied
fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped,
Malaga raisins.
Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged
border-mould; and poach in the _bain-marie_.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.
=Bread Puddings.=
2489—ENGLISH BREAD PUDDING
Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some
currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set
these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No. 2638, and poach
in front of the oven.
2490—FRENCH BREAD PUDDING
Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter
pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz.
of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks,
and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with
bread-crumbs; and poach in _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a
vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.
2491—GERMAN BREAD PUDDING
Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter
pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist
sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs,
six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs
beaten to a froth. Poach in a _bain-marie_ as in the preceding case.
The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.
2492—SCOTCH BREAD PUDDING
Proceed exactly as for No. 2490, but add five oz. of sliced seasonable
fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce
flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.
=Paste Puddings.=
2493—TAPIOCA
Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of
boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and
three oz. of butter.
Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to
another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of
butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with
tapioca, and poach in the _bain-marie_ until the preparation seems
resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight
minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a
fruit sauce as accompaniment.
2494—SAGO PUDDING
Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the
inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.
2495—SEMOLINA PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and
sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.
2496—VERMICELLI PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould
with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.
2497—FRESH-NOODLE PUDDING
Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. 2493.
2498—ENGLISH TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND SEMOLINA PUDDINGS, ETC.
Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared
milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above.
Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole
into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in a _bain-marie_.
N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and,
as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.
2499—BRAZILIAN PUDDING
Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould,
_clothed_ with sugar cooked to the _caramel_ stage.
Poach in a _bain-marie_ and serve plain.
2500—CHEVREUSE PUDDING
This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.
2501—RICE PUDDING
Prepare the rice as directed under No. 2404, and mix with it (per lb.
of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould
in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.
The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. 2493, 2494, etc.
2502—ENGLISH RICE PUDDING
The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of
milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of
butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole
should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation
in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven
sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.
2503—RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDING
Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made
after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten
to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish,
and cook in the oven.
Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream)
separately.
N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.
=Souffléd Puddings.=
2504—SAXON PUDDING
Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of
powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds
pint of boiled milk.
Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce
fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”
Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully
mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into
well-buttered moulds, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured
according to fancy.
2505—ALMOND SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Make a preparation as for No. 2504, but use almond milk instead of
cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with
splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured with _orgeat_.
2506—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING, DENISE
Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add
thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the
almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to
them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly
twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.
With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice
cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain
the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of
butter and a little salt.
Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then
stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the
consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving
any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine
therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then,
eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a
tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five
eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
This pudding is cooked in a _bain-marie_ in one of the following ways:
(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out
of the _bain-marie_, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and
criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.
(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.
(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels
one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a
layer of _Génoise_ or a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation,
about one-third of an inch thick.
In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce,
mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served
separately.
2507—LEMON SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Make the preparation for No. 2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon
rind. The treatment is the same.
Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.
2508—ORANGE, CURAÇAO, ANISETTE, AND BÉNÉDICTINE PUDDINGS, ETC.
For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No. 2504, and
only the flavour changes.
Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular
pudding.
2509—INDIAN SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of
powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed
in the same way as for No. 2504.
As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.
2510—CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.
Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz.
of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with
eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a
stiff froth.
Poach in buttered moulds in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a
vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.
2511—MOUSSELINE PUDDING
Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade,
and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the
preparation.
Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon;
then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half
fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while
cooking.
Poach in a _bain-marie_ for about thirty minutes, and let the pudding
stand for ten minutes before turning it out.
As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.
2512—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA RÉGENCE
Make a _souffléd_-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and
poach it in a _bain-marie_, in a mould _clothed_ with sugar cooked to
the _caramel_ stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel,
separately.
2513—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA REINE
Take some vanilla-flavoured, _souffléd_-pudding preparation. Take a
mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped
pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould
in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed
macaroons; and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined with _pralin_.
2514—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA ROYALE
Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin
slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with
a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.
2515—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING SANS-SOUCI
Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with
well-washed currants. Garnish with a _souffléd_-pudding preparation,
combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and
cooked in butter.
Poach in a _bain-marie_.
2516—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA VESUVIENNE
Make a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities
given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the
same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a _bain-marie_ in a
mould with a central tube.
When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and
pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.
2517—ROLY-POLY PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour,
nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt,
and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before
using it.
Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick;
spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.
Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water
or in steam for one and a half hours.
When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and
dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.
2518—RISSOLES
The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles
served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with
marmalade or jam, with a fruit _salpicon_ or with stewed fruit, with
plain or _pralined_ creams, etc.
The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.
The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like
half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.
Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche
paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they
are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”
2519—SOUFFLÉS
Although _soufflés_ are generally served unaccompanied, some stewed,
seasonable fruit, or a _macédoine_ of fresh fruit, may, nevertheless,
be served with them. This, of course, only applies to _soufflés_ with a
fruit base.
I have already given the formulæ for _soufflés_ (No. 2405); I need now,
therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particular _soufflé_.
2520—FRUIT SOUFFLÉ IN A CROUSTADE
Line a round, shallow, well-buttered, _croustade_-mould with a very
thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed
apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable
fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be
half-filled.
Fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation, and cook it
in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.
On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour
a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to
it when serving.
2521—ALMOND SOUFFLÉ
Make a preparation of _soufflé_ with cream, but use almond milk instead
of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped
almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.
2522—SOUFFLÉ WITH FRESH ALMONDS
Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of
grilled, chopped ones.
2523—SOUFFLÉ WITH FILBERT
Make the _soufflé_ preparation from milk in which two oz. of filbert
_pralin_ per one-sixth pint have previously been infused.
Dish and cook the _soufflé_ in the usual way.
2524—SOUFFLÉ A LA CAMARGO
Make a _soufflé_ preparation of tangerines, and another of filberts
as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by
“lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.
2525—PAULETTE SOUFFLÉ
Take vanilla-flavoured, _soufflé_ preparation, thickened somewhat more
than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry
purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry
purée, separately.
2526—CHERRY SOUFFLÉ
Prepare a _soufflé_ with Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned
cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.
2527—STRAWBERRY SOUFFLÉ
This is a _soufflé_ with Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries
macerated in orange juice.
2528—POMEGRANATE SOUFFLÉ “A L’ORIENTALE”
Make a _soufflé_ preparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish
it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits”
saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing the _soufflé_
from the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the
latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of
pomegranate seeds.
2529—JAVA SOUFFLÉ
Make the _soufflé_ preparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add
thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of
the tea.
2530—LÉRINA SOUFFLÉ
Take some ordinary _soufflé_ preparation, flavoured with Lérina
liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.
2531—SOUFFLÉ WITH LIQUEUR
This _soufflé_ may be made, either from the soufflé with cream
preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.
The _soufflés_ made from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum,
curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.
Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.
2532—LUCULLUS SOUFFLÉ
Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and
surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to
prevent the _soufflé_ from drying during the cooking process.
Make a _soufflé_ preparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of
the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.
2533—HILDA SOUFFLÉ
This is a lemon _soufflé_, accompanied by fine strawberries, well
cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.
2534—SOUFFLÉ “A LA D’ORLÉANS”
Take some cream _soufflé_-preparation, combined with pieces of
Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach
liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and
angelica, cut into dice.
2535—SOUFFLÉ PALMYRE
Take some vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation. Set it in a timbale,
in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette
and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.
2536—SOUFFLÉ PRALINE
Take some vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation; add to it two ounces
of almond _pralin_ which should have previously infused in milk. When
the _soufflé_ is dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped
almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.
2537—ROTHSCHILD SOUFFLÉ
Take some cream _soufflé_-preparation, combined with three ounces
of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy,
containing plenty of gold spangles.
When the _soufflé_ is almost cooked, set on it a border of fine
strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.
It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands
the use of strawberries in full season.
2538—SOUFFLÉ A LA ROYALE
Take some vanilla-flavoured, _soufflé_-preparation. Dish it in a
timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated
with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple,
cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously
macerated in Kirsch.
2539—VANILLA SOUFFLÉ
Take some cream _soufflé_-preparation, made from milk in which a stick
of vanilla has been previously infused.
2540—VIOLET SOUFFLÉ
Take some vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation, combined with
crushed crystallised violets. When the _soufflé_ is dished, set on it a
crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.
2541—SUBRICS
Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a
half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of
butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven
under cover for twenty-five minutes.
Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers
two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of
butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.
Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.
Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown
them on both sides, and dish them in a circle.
Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant
jelly, or very firm quince jelly.
=Timbales.=
2542—TIMBALE A LA D’AREMBERG
Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche paste.
Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-flavoured
syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.
Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed down
round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the middle for
the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven for about forty
minutes.
On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish, and
accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.
2543—BOURDALOUE TIMBALE
Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-chopped
almonds per one lb. of flour.
With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it with
various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream. Cover
with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate oven.
When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured
apricot syrup.
2544—MARIE-LOUISE TIMBALE
Take a stale _Génoise_ cooked in a deep Charlotte mould; press the
blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.
Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a large cork
in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick; coat each slice
with Italian meringue, and, upon the latter, distribute a _salpicon_ of
peaches, cherries and pine-apple.
Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and decorate
it; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the other. Owing
to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project above the sides
of the timbale; surround them therefore with a border of poached
peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.
Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and serve a
Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.
2545—MONTMORENCY TIMBALE
Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is quite
cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness of
three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all round, by
means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the _small-thread_ stage,
and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape of crescents,
lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a moderate oven. When
about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned cherries, cooked in a thin
syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.
2546—TIMBALE A LA PARISIENNE
Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite cold, remove
the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside with apricot jam,
and decorate with candied fruit. When about to serve, pour into it a
garnish consisting of peeled and quartered pears, apples, peaches and
apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; pine-apple cut into large
dice, lozenges of angelica; half-almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid
water. Cohere this garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot purée.
2547—TIMBALE A LA FAVART
Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and decorate it
as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only whole or halved
fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts; and these are cohered with
Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with one quart of a purée of
chestnut remains.
Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.
=Hot Fruit Entremets.=
2548—APRICOTS (Abricots)
Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should always be
peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to cook them again
before using them, for sometimes they are inclined to be too firm.
2549—APRICOTS A LA BOURDALOUE
Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish its
bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with crushed
macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots, poached in
vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of the same cream.
Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter and glaze
quickly.
N.B.—The above is the usual procedure, but fruit “à la Bourdaloue” may
also be prepared in the following ways: (1) Set the fruit in a shallow
timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper one of which should
be covered with _gratin_; (2) set the fruit in a border of rice or
semolina, with the same coat of _gratin_ upon the cream; (3) set the
fruit in a border of _Génoise_, combined with apricots.
2550—APRICOTS A LA COLBERT
Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm.
Drain them; dry them, and garnish their hollows with “rice for
entremets” (No. 2404) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit. Treat
them _à l’anglaise_, with very fine bread-crumbs; fry just before
dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into each apricot,
in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a napkin.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2551—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ
On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet rice,
either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered,
border-mould.
Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup; decorate with
candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.
2552—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ (2nd Method)
Set a crown of small _Génoise_ roundels on a dish; on each roundel
set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set a
half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the middle
of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size and shape
of apricots.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2553—APRICOTS A LA CUSSY
Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth
fruit _salpicon_, cohered with an apricot purée; set a fine poached
half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with Italian meringue; dish in
the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a few
minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2554—ABRICOTS GRATINÉS
Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff stewed apples or stewed
semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set thereon some
fine half-apricots poached in syrup; entirely cover the latter with
a somewhat thin preparation of “Pralin à Condé,” sprinkle with icing
sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly colour the _pralin_.
2555—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS
Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and set some
poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary meringue; shaping
the latter like a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue;
sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in the oven in order to
slightly cook the meringue.
On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative portions
alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.
2556—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS (Another Method)
Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the bottom
either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-flavoured
semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached half-apricots; cover
with meringue, smooth the latter on top and all round with the blade
of a knife, and decorate with meringue by means of a piping-bag fitted
with a small even pipe. For the rest of the procedure follow the
preceding recipe.
2557—APRICOTS A LA SULTANE
Prepare a _Génoise_, cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould, and stick
it by means of some apricot, cooked to the _small-thread_ stage, to a
base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round with ordinary
meringue; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe,
and brown it in a moderate oven.
Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of
vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and
some splintered pistachios; taking care to keep the preparation
sufficiently stiff to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice
set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and
sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.
As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk, and
finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.
=Pine-apple (Ananas).=
2558—PINE-APPLE A LA FAVORITE
See No. 2429.
2559—PINE-APPLE A LA CONDÉ
Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple. Dish them
in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed under No. 2551;
decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges of angelica, and coat
with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.
2560—PINE-APPLE A LA CRÉOLE
Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup; cut it vertically in
two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.
Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with
vanilla-flavoured rice; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish this
hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard apples
and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.
Turn out upon a round dish; decorate the top with large leaves
of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in
Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.
=Bananas (Bananes).=
2561—BANANAS A LA BOURDALOUE
Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.
For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under No. 2549.
2562—BANANAS A LA CONDÉ
Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as
directed under No. 2551.
2563—BANANAS MERINGUÉES
Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as
directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. 2555 and 2556); leaving them
either whole or cutting them into roundels.
2564—BANANAS A LA NORVEGIENNE
Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp from
their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with banana
ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag fitted with
a small grooved pipe, with an Italian meringue flavoured with rum.
Lay the prepared bananas on a dish; set the latter on a tray containing
broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the
speedy browning of the meringue.
2565—SOUFFLÉD BANANAS
Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from their
insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a sieve;
add it to a cream _soufflé_-preparation; finish the latter with the
necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels with it.
Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the
oven for six minutes.
=Cherries (Cerises).=
2566—JUBILEE CHERRIES
Stone some fine cherries; poach them in syrup, and set them in small
silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a little
arrowroot, diluted with cold water; allowing one table-spoonful of
arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the thickened
syrup; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each timbale, and
set a light to each when serving.
2567—CHERRIES A LA VALERIA
Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the bottom
of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and cover the
latter with vanilla-flavoured, Italian meringue, laid on by means of
a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned cherries, poached in
sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the tartlets on a dish.
Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray in the
oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the dish from the
oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant syrup; sprinkle the
latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the tartlets on a napkin.
2568—MERINGUED CHERRY FLAWN
Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste: prick the bottom; garnish
with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn, and fill up
with custard (No. 2397). Cook in the usual way.
On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish the
former like an ordinary meringue-coated flawn.
N.B.—All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns may be
similarly prepared for meringue-coated flawns. Only such fruits as
strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the crust, are
unsuited to this kind of preparation.
2569—NECTARINES
Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for peaches. I
shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to them. See
peaches.
=Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines).=
2570—ORANGES A LA NORVEGIENNE
Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and empty them
by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied peels with orange or
tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit under treatment, and cover
the ice with Italian meringue, by means of a piping-bag.
Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered with
broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the salamander.
2571—TANGERINES A LA PALIKARE
Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without bursting
the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice for
entremets, containing a little saffron; mould some of the same rice in
a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.
Cover this dome with the tangerine sections; coat the latter with some
apricot syrup; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished peels, opened
side undermost.
2572—ORANGE OR TANGERINE SOUFFLÉ RIGHI
Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.
Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the fruit
under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-flavoured
_soufflé_-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished peels
upon a tray covered with broken ice; set in the oven that the _soufflé_
may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and four minutes
for oranges.
=Peaches (Pêches).=
2573—PÊCHES A LA BOURDALOUE
Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured syrup, and
then proceed exactly as for No. 2549.
2574—PÊCHES A LA CONDÉ
Nos. 2551 and 2552 maybe applied in every respect to peaches.
2575—PÊCHES A LA CUSSY
Proceed exactly as for No. 2553.
2576—PÊCHES FLAMBÉES
These may be prepared in two ways as follows:—
(1) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and set them
each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with arrowroot, and
pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch, and set it alight
when serving.
(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-strawberry
purée. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it alight at the
last moment.
2577—PÊCHES GRATINÉES
Proceed exactly as for No. 2554.
2578—PÊCHES MERINGUÉES
Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust; garnish the bottom of it
with frangipan cream prepared with _pralin_, and upon this cream set
whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with meringue and finish as
explained under No. 2555.
2579—PÊCHES MAINTENON
Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely cooled. Cut it
transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter with frangipan
cream, combined with a _salpicon_ of candied fruit and chopped, grilled
almonds.
Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit,
and cover the latter with Italian meringue. Decorate by means of the
piping-bag, and dry in the oven.
Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup.
2580—PÊCHES A LA VANILLE
Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and
set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their height with the
syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot slightly tinted with
pink, and combined with vanilla cream.
=Pears (Poires).=
2581—POIRES A LA BOURDALOUE
If the pears be of medium size, halve them; if they are large,
quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow
No. 2549.
The remarks appended to No. 2549 apply equally to pears and to all
fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.
2582—POIRES A LA CONDÉ
Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to
this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook them in
vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice as directed
under No. 2551.
2583—POIRES A L’IMPÉRATRICE
Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured
syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two layers of
vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little frangipan
cream.
Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted butter, and
set the _gratin_ to form.
2584—POIRES A LA PARISIENNE
Bake a _Génoise_ base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold,
saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured rice,
and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright. Border
them with a thread of ordinary meringue, squeezed from a piping-bag,
fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe; by the same means make a fine
rosette of meringue on top of the dome, and bake this meringue in a
mild oven.
On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush dipped
in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a border of
half-sugared cherries.
2585—POIRES A LA SULTANE
Halve or quarter the pears; trim them well, and cook them in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup.
For the rest of the operation follow No. 2557.
2586—POIRES A LA RÉGENCE
Turn the pears; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let
them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in two lengthwise,
slightly hollow out the inside of each half; garnish the hollow with
rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its weight of frangipan
cream and a fine _salpicon_ of candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them _à l’anglaise_ with
very fine bread-crumbs.
Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the fat,
stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and serve a
Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2587—TIMBALE DE POIRES A LA VALENCIENNES
Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin paste. Let
the paste rise by fermentation; bake it, and let it cool.
Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside; then remove all
the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside crust, and smear
the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate with alternate bands of sugar
grains and chopped, very green pistachios.
Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the same way.
Quarter some “Duchesse,” “Beurre,” “Doyenne” or other creamy pears;
peel them; cut them into somewhat thick slices, and cook them in butter
after the manner of Pommes à Charlotte. When the pears are well cooked,
mix with them a quarter of their weight of apricot jam, and flavour
with vanilla liqueur.
Serve the timbale with this preparation; put its cover on, and set it
on a warm dish.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
=Apples (Pommes).=
2588—APPLE FRITTERS
Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose, and make
a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters of an inch
in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel them and cut them
into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and macerate them for twenty
minutes in powdered sugar and brandy or rum.
A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly; dip the roundels into
thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat. Drain them, set
them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, glaze them quickly, and
dish them on a napkin.
2589—APPLES WITH BUTTER
Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-cutter;
peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling water, containing
a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered sautépan; add a few
tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cook them under cover in
the oven. Dish them on little, round, brioche _croûtons_, glazed in the
oven, and fill the hollow with butter worked with an equal weight of
powdered sugar, and mixed with a little brandy.
Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with apricot
purée.
2590—POMMES A LA BONNE-FEMME
Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut them all
round.
Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered sugar
mixed; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the apples in
the oven.
Serve these apples as they stand.
2591—POMMES A LA BOURDALOUE
Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured
syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the rest of the
operation as directed under No. 2549.
2592—POMMES EN CHARLOTTE
See No. 2436.
2593—POMMES A LA CHÂTELAINE
Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those of No. 2590.
Set them on a buttered dish; fill the hollow in each with a _salpicon_
of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot purée; cover with thin,
frangipan cream; sprinkle with crushed biscuits and macaroons and
melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.
2594—POMMES A LA CHEVREUSE
On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina croquettes.
All round arrange a close border of quartered apples cooked in
vanilla-flavoured syrup; garnish the centre with a _salpicon_ of
candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot purée, and cover
with a thin coat of semolina.
Cover the whole with ordinary meringue, shaped like a dome; sprinkle
some chopped pistachios upon the latter; dredge with icing sugar, and
set to brown in a mild oven.
On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome, with a
rosette of elongated angelica lozenges; place a small apple, cooked in
pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base of the
entremet with a circle of alternated white and pink, quartered apples.
2595—POMMES A LA CONDÉ
Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured syrup.
Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and angelica, as
explained under No. 2551.
2596—POMMES GRATINÉES
Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a
base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and kept somewhat
stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin à Condé; sprinkle with icing
sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that the _pralin_ may dry and
colour slightly.
2597—POMMES MERINGUÉES
Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a
base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte. Cover
with ordinary meringue, and smooth the latter, giving it the shape of
a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with
icing sugar, and bake and brown in a mild oven.
2598—POMMES A LA MOSCOVITE
Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size; trim to within
two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides in
suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.
Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat firm;
drain them well, and set them on a dish.
Garnish them, one-third full, with a purée made from the withdrawn
pulp, and fill them up with a Kümmel-flavoured, apple-_soufflé_
preparation.
Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.
2599—POMMES A LA PARISIENNE
Proceed exactly as for No. 2584.
2600—POMMES A LA PORTUGAISE
Make cases of the apples as under No. 2598, and poach them in the same
way, keeping them somewhat firm.
Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated orange
rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both washed and
swelled in a Curaçao-flavoured, lukewarm syrup).
Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette
preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking them
out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant jelly,
combined with a fine _julienne_ of well-parboiled orange-_zest_.
2601—RABOTTE DE POMMES OU DOUILLON NORMAN
Prepare the apples like those “à la Bonne-femme,” and enclose each in a
layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an indented roundel
of the same paste; _gild_; streak, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen
minutes.
2602—POMMES IRÈNE
Select some nice apples; peel them, and cook them in syrup, keeping
them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully withdraw their pulp,
that they may form a sort of cases.
Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and spread a
layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the apple-cases with
vanilla ice, combined with a purée of cooked plums; the proportions
being one-third of the latter to one of the former.
Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured Italian meringue; set the latter
to colour quickly, and serve instantly.
2603—FLAN DE POMMES CHAUD NINON
Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with apples
stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of a dome. Upon
these stewed apples set pink and white quartered apples, alternating
the latter regularly; and, by means of a brush delicately coat these
quarters of apple with some reduced white syrup.
2604—FLAN DE POMMES A LA BATELIERE
Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with apples,
stewed as for a Charlotte.
Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for entremets,
combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff froth) per lb.
of cooked rice.
Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the oven,
sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron.
=Various Hot Entremets.=
2605—MINCE PIES
_Constituents._—One lb. of chopped suet; one and one-third lbs. of
cold, cooked fillet of beef, cut into very small dice; one lb. of
pipped raisins; one lb. of currants and an equal quantity of sultanas;
one lb. of candied rinds; half lb. of peeled and chopped raw apples;
the chopped _zest_ and the juice of an orange; two-thirds oz. of
allspice; one-sixth pint of brandy; and the same measure of Madeira and
rum.
Thoroughly mix the whole; pour it into an earthenware jar; cover the
latter, and let the preparation macerate for a month.
_Preparation._—Line some deep, buttered tartlet moulds with ordinary
short paste; garnish them with the above preparation; cover with a thin
layer of puff-paste, having a hole in its centre; seal down this layer,
_gild_, and bake in a hot oven.
2606—CÉLESTINE OMELET
Make an omelet from two eggs, and garnish it either with cream, stewed
fruit or jam. Make a somewhat larger omelet, and stuff it with a
different garnish from the one already used; enclose the first omelet
in the second, and roll the latter up in the usual way. Sprinkle with
icing sugar, and glaze in the oven or with a red-hot iron.
2607—EGGS A LA RELIGIEUSE
Bake a somewhat deep flawn-crust without colouration, and have it of
a size in proportion to the number of eggs it has to contain. Coat it
inside with a layer of _pralin_, and dry the latter well in a mild oven.
Meanwhile poach the required number of fresh eggs in boiling milk,
sugared to the extent of a quarter lb. per quart, and keep them
somewhat soft. Drain them, and set them in the crust. Between each egg
place a small slice of pine-apple, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.
Thicken the poaching-milk with five eggs and six egg-yolks per quart;
pass it through a strainer: pour the preparation over the eggs, and put
the flawn in a mild oven, that the cream may be poached and slightly
coloured.
2608—PAIN PERDU OR GILDED CRUST
Cut some slices one-half inch thick from a brioche or a stale loaf and
dip them in cold sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Drain the slices;
dip them in some slightly-sugared beaten eggs, and place them in a
frying-pan containing some very hot clarified butter. Brown them on
both sides; drain them; sprinkle them with vanilla sugar, and dish them
on a napkin.
2609—FRUIT SUPRÊME A LA GABRIELLE
Prepare (1) a border of apples, stewed as for a Charlotte, thickened
with eggs, and poached in a buttered and ornamented border mould.
(2) A _macédoine_ of fruit, the quantity of which should be in
proportion to the capacity of the mould and consisting of quartered
pears, cooked in syrup; pine-apple, cut into large lozenges;
half-sugared cherries; angelica, stamped into leaf-shapes by means of
the fancy-cutter; and currants and sultanas, swelled in syrup. Set all
these fruits in a sautépan.
To every pint of the pear-syrup add one lb. of sugar, and cook the
mixture to the _small-ball_ stage. This done, reduce it by adding
one-sixth pint of very thick almond milk; pour this over the fruit,
and simmer very gently for ten minutes. Turn out the border of apples,
poached in a _bain-marie_, upon a dish, and surround it with a border
of candied cherries. Complete the _macédoine_ away from the fire with
a little very best butter; pour it into the border, and sprinkle on it
some peeled and finely-splintered almonds.
2610—SCHALETH A LA JUIVE
Line a greased iron saucepan, or a large mould for “Pommes Anna,”
with a thin layer of ordinary noodle paste, and fill it up with the
following preparation:—For a utensil large enough to hold one and
a half quarts:—one and three quarter lbs. of stiffly stewed russet
apples; one and a quarter lbs. in all of pipped Malaga raisins,
currants, and sultanas (swelled in tepid water) in equal quantities;
the finely chopped half-_zests_ of an orange and a lemon; a mite of
grated nutmeg; four oz. powdered sugar; four whole eggs and the yolks
of six; and a quarter of a pint of Malaga wine. Mix the whole well, in
advance.
Cover with a layer of noodle paste; seal the latter well down round the
edges; _gild_, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam. Bake
it in a moderate oven for fifty minutes, and let it rest ten minutes
before turning it out.
2611—ENGLISH TARTS
These tarts are made in deep pie or pastry-dishes. Whatever be the
fruit used, clean it, peel it, or core it, according to its nature.
Some fruits are sliced while others are merely quartered or left whole.
Set them in the dish, to within half inch of its brim; sprinkle them
with moist or powdered sugar, and (in the case of fruit with firm pulps
like apples) with a few tablespoonfuls of water.
This addition of water is optional and, in any case, may be dispensed
with for aqueous fruits. First cover the edges of the dish, which
should be moistened slightly, with a strip of short paste, an inch
wide. Then cover the dish with a layer of puff-paste, which seal down
well to the strip of paste, already in position and slightly moistened
for the purpose. With a brush moisten the layer of paste constituting
the cover of the tart; sprinkle it with sugar, and set the tart to bake
in a moderate oven.
All English tarts are made in this way, and all fruits may be used with
them even when, as in the case of gooseberries, they are green.
Accompany these tarts by a sauceboat of raw-cream or by a custard
pudding (No. 2406).
=Cold Sweets=
2612—SAUCES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF COLD SWEETS
Cold sweets allow of the following sauces:—
(1) _English Custard_ (2397), flavoured according to fancy.
(2) _Syrups_ of apricot, of mirabelle plums, of greengages, of
red-currant, &c., the particular flavour of which should always be
intensified by the addition of a liqueur in keeping with the fruit
forming the base of the syrup. Kirsch and Maraschino are admirably
suited to this purpose.
(3) _Purées of fresh fruit_, such as strawberries, raspberries,
red-currants, etc., combined with a little powdered sugar, and used
plain or mixed with a little whipped cream.
(4) _Chantilly Cream_, flavoured as fancy may suggest.
Finally, certain entremets allow of the following sauce:—
2613—CHERRY SAUCE
Gently melt one lb. of raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly. Pour it
into a cold basin, and add to it an equal quantity of freshly-prepared
cherry juice, the juice of two blood-oranges, a little powdered ginger,
and a few drops of carmine; the latter with the view of giving the
preparation a sufficiently strong and distinctive colour. Finally add
a quarter of a lb. of half-sugared cherries, softened in a tepid,
Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
=Bavarois.=
These are of two kinds:—
(1) Bavarois with cream, and (2) Bavarois with fruit.
2614—CREAM BAVAROIS
_Preparation_: Work one lb. of castor sugar with fourteen egg-yolks in
a saucepan, dilute with a pint and a half of boiled milk, in which a
stick of vanilla has previously been infused, and two-thirds of an oz.
of gelatine dipped in cold water.
Put the preparation on a mild fire until it properly veneers the
withdrawn spoon, and do not let it boil. Pass it through the strainer
into an enamelled basin; let it cool, stirring it from time to time;
and, when it begins to thicken, add one and a half pints of whipped
cream, three oz. of powdered sugar, and two-thirds oz. of vanilla sugar.
2615—BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS
_Constituents._—One pint of fruit purée, diluted with one pint of
syrup at 30° (saccharom.). Add the juice of three lemons, one oz. of
dissolved gelatine, strained through linen, and one pint of whipped
cream. The preparation for fruit Bavarois may be combined with fruit of
the same nature as that used for the purée; and this fruit may be added
raw in the case of strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., and
poached in the case of pulpy fruits, such as pears, peaches, apricots,
etc.
2616—THE MOULDING AND DISHING OF BAVAROIS
Bavarois are generally moulded in fancy moulds fitted with a central
tube, slightly greased with sweet almond oil. When they are greased
they are incrusted in broken ice after the preparation has been covered
with a round sheet of white paper.
When about to serve, the mould is quickly plunged into tepid water,
wiped, and turned out upon a dish, which may or may not be covered with
a folded napkin.
Instead of oiling the moulds they may be covered with a thin coat of
sugar cooked to the _caramel_ stage, which besides making the Bavarois
sightly, also gives it an excellent taste. Another very advisable
method is that of serving the Bavarois in a deep silver timbale or
dish, surrounded with ice. In this case, the entremet not having to be
turned out, the preparation does not need to be so cohesive, and is
therefore much more delicate.
When the Bavarois is served after this last method it is sometimes
accompanied by stewed fruit or a _Macédoine_ of fresh fruit; though,
in reality, these fruit adjuncts are better suited to cold puddings,
which, in some points, are not unlike Bavarois.
Finally, when the Bavarois is moulded, it may be decorated, just before
being served, with Chantilly cream laid on by means of a piping-bag
fitted with a grooved pipe.
2617—BAVAROIS CLERMONT
Take some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation combined with
three oz. of candied chestnut purée and three oz. of candied chestnuts,
broken into small pieces, per pint of the preparation.
Having turned out the Bavarois, surround it with a crown of fine
candied chestnuts.
2618—BAVAROIS DIPLOMATE
_Clothe_ a timbale mould with a layer of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois
preparation. Fill it with chocolate and strawberry Bavarois
preparations, spread in alternate and regular layers.
2619—BAVAROIS MY QUEEN
_Clothe_ a Bavarois mould with a preparation of slightly-sugared raw
cream, combined with dissolved gelatine. Then fill up the mould with
a Bavarois preparation, made from strawberry purée and combined with
large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. When the entremet is turned
out surround it with a border of large strawberries, also macerated in
sugar and Kirsch.
2620—BAVAROIS A LA RELIGIEUSE
_Clothe_ a mould with some chocolate dissolved in a syrup containing a
somewhat large proportion of gelatine. Garnish the inside of the mould
with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, made from plain instead
of whipped cream.
2621—BAVAROIS RUBANNÉ
This kind of Bavarois is made from differently-coloured and
differently-flavoured preparations, spread in alternate layers in the
mould.
It is therefore governed by no hard and fast rules, and every kind of
Bavarois preparation may be used.
2622—VARIOUS CREAM BAVAROIS
Almond, anisette, filbert, coffee, chocolate, Kirsch, fresh walnut,
orange, and violet Bavarois, &c., may be prepared after No. 2614; the
flavour alone undergoing any change.
2623—VARIOUS FRUIT BAVAROIS
After the generic recipe, Bavarois may be prepared from pine-apple,
apricots, strawberries, raspberries, melon, etc.
2624—BLANC-MANGE
Blanc-mange is scarcely ever served nowadays, and this is a pity;
seeing that, when it is well prepared, it is one of the best entremets
that can be set before a diner. Blanc-mange, as it is prepared in
England, is quite different from that generally served; but it is
nevertheless an excellent and very wholesome entremet, and that is why
I have given its recipe below.
As a matter of fact, in order to justify its name, blanc-mange ought
always to be beautifully white; but, for a long time since, the
compound word has lost its original meaning. The adjective and noun
composing it have fused one with the other to form a single generic
title, which may now be applied with equal propriety to both coloured
and white preparations; and the verbal error is so old, dating as it
does from pre-Carême times, that it would be futile to try and correct
it.
2625—FRENCH BLANC-MANGE
_Preparation._—Skin one lb. of sweet almonds and four or five bitter
almonds, and soak them well in fresh water that they may be quite white.
Pound them as finely as possible; adding to them the while (in
spoonfuls at a time) one pint of water. Strain the whole through a
strong towel, twisting the latter tightly; melt one lb. of loaf-sugar
in the resulting milk (about one and half pints); add a bare oz. of
gelatine dissolved in tepid syrup; strain the whole through muslin, and
flavour according to taste.
_Moulding_:—Mould the blanc-mange in oiled moulds fitted with
centre-tubes as for Bavarois. Incrust them in ice that their contents
may set, and proceed for the turning-out as already directed.
N.B.—For the preparation of almond milk, modern Cookery has substituted
for the procedure given above, which is antiquated, another which
consists in pounding the almonds with only a few table-spoonfuls of
water and some very thin cream.
2626—BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT AND LIQUEURS
All fruits, reduced to purées, may serve in the preparation of
blanc-manges, and the apportionment of the ingredients should be as
follows:—the purée of the selected fruit and the preparation given
above (including the same amount of gelatine) should be mixed in equal
quantities.
These blanc-manges take the name of the fruit with which they are
prepared, _i.e._: strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, etc.
They may also be prepared with liqueurs, which should be in the
proportion of one liqueur glassful to one quart of the preparation. The
best liqueurs for the purpose are Kirsch, Maraschino and Rum.
Blanc-manges are also made from chocolate and coffee, although the
flavour of the latter does not blend so well with that of almonds as do
the other products.
2627—BLANC-MANGES “RUBANNÉS”
Prepare these as directed under No. 2621, spreading the differently
flavoured and coloured blanc-mange preparations in alternate even and
regular layers.
N.B.—Blanc-mange preparations may also be dished in silver timbales,
in good china cases, or in deep dishes. By this means, to the great
improvement of the preparation, the gelatine may be reduced to a
minimum quantity, just enough to ensure the setting of the blanc-mange
and no more. And the thing is quite possible inasmuch as there is no
question of turning out the entremet.
In his book “The Parisian Cook,” Carême recommends the addition to the
Blanc-mange of a quarter of its volume of very fresh, good cream; and
the advice, coming as it does from such an authoritative source, is
worth following.
2628—ENGLISH BLANC-MANGE
Boil one quart of milk, containing four oz. of sugar, and pour it over
a quarter of a lb. of corn-flour diluted with half a pint of cold milk;
stirring briskly the while.
Smooth the preparation with the whisk, and cook it over an open fire
for a few minutes, without ceasing to stir.
On taking it off the fire, flavour it according to taste; and pour
it, very hot, into moulds previously moistened with syrup, that the
mouldings may turn out glossy and smooth.
Let the contents of the moulds set; turn them out, and serve them very
cold either plain or with an accompaniment of stewed fruit.
=Charlottes.=
2629—CHARLOTTE A L’ARLEQUINE
Line the bottom of a Charlotte mould with a round piece of paper, and
garnish the sides with upright pieces of _Génoise_, glazed white, pink
and pale-green; alternating the colours and pressing the uprights
snugly one against the other. Meanwhile, take some strawberry,
chocolate, pistachio and apricot Bavarois preparations, and let them
set in flawn-rings, lying on pieces of oiled paper.
Cut the Bavarois preparations into large dice, and mix them with an
ordinary, and somewhat liquid, cream Bavarois preparation. Pour the
whole into the mould, and leave to cool. When about to serve, turn
out the Charlotte; remove the piece of paper and replace it by a thin
_Génoise_ top, glazed with “fondant” and decorated with candied fruit.
2630—CHARLOTTE CARMEN
Line the Charlotte with _gaufrettes_, and garnish it with the following
preparation:—eight oz. of stewed tomatoes; four oz. of stewed
red-capsicums, a pinch of powdered ginger, three oz. of candied ginger
cut into dice, the juice of three lemons, half a pint of hot syrup at
32° (saccharom.), and five dissolved gelatine leaves.
Mix up the whole, and, when the preparation begins to thicken, add to
it one and three-quarter pints of whisked cream.
2631—CHARLOTTE A LA CHANTILLY
Prepare the Charlotte with _gaufrettes_, stuck directly upon a round
base of dry paste, either with apricot jam cooked to the _small-thread_
stage or with sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage. As a help, a
Charlotte mould may be used for this operation; it may be laid on the
dry-paste base and removed when the _gaufrettes_ are all stuck.
Garnish with whisked, sugared and vanilla-flavoured cream built up in
pyramid-form, and decorate its surface, by means of a spoon, with the
same cream, slightly tinted with pink.
2632—BAQUET ET PANIER A LA CHANTILLY
A “Baquet” (bucket) is made with lady’s-finger biscuits, well
trimmed and stuck upon a base of dry paste with sugar cooked to the
_large-crack_ stage.
In the middle, and on either side of the baquet, set a biscuit,
somewhat higher than the rest, with a hole in its top end, cut by means
of a small round cutter; and surround the baquet with small threads of
chocolate-flavoured almond paste, in imitation of iron hoops.
The “Panier” (basket) is made in the same way, but with biscuits all of
the same size, and without the imitation iron-hoops. On the base and
by means of sugar cooked to the _large-crack_ stage, fix a handle of
pulled sugar, decked with sugar flowers.
The baquet and the panier are garnished with the same cream as
the Chantilly Charlotte, and are finished in the same way, with a
decoration of pink-tinted cream.
2633—CHARLOTTE MONTREUIL
Line the bottom and sides of the mould with lady’s-finger biscuits.
Garnish with a Bavarois preparation consisting of one pint of peach
purée per quart of English custard, and the usual quantity of whisked
cream.
Add some very ripe, sliced and sugared peaches, on putting the
preparation into the mould.
2634—OPERA CHARLOTTE
Line a mould with Huntley and Palmer’s sugar wafers and garnish it with
a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with one-quarter of
its bulk of a smooth purée of candied chestnuts, and a _salpicon_ of
candied fruit, macerated in Maraschino.
2635—CHARLOTTE PLOMBIÈRE
Line the Charlotte with lady’s-finger biscuits or with _gaufrettes_.
When about to serve, garnish it with a Plombière ice (No. 2795) and
turn it out upon a napkin.
2636—CHARLOTTE RENAISSANCE
Line the bottom of the mould with a round piece of white paper, and
the sides with rectangles of _Génoise_, glazed white and pink. Set the
glazed sides of the rectangles against the mould.
Fill the mould, thus lined, with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois
preparation, combined with raw peeled and sliced apricots and peaches,
pine-apple cut into dice, and wild strawberries, all these fruits
having been previously macerated in Kirsch. Let the preparation set in
the cool or on ice.
When the Charlotte is turned out, remove the round piece of paper, and
in its place lay a slice of pine-apple, cut from the thickest part of
the fruit and decorated with candied fruit.
2637—CHARLOTTE RUSSE
Make a rosette on the bottom of the mould with some heart-shaped
lady’s-finger biscuits, and line the sides with the same biscuits
trimmed, set upright and close together.
This Charlotte may be garnished with a vanilla-, _pralin_-, coffee-,
orange- or chocolate-flavoured cream Bavarois preparation; or a
Bavarois preparation made from a purée of such fruits as apricots,
pine-apple, bananas, peaches, strawberries, etc.
The flavour or product which determines the character of the Charlotte
should always be referred to on the menu, thus: _Charlotte Russe à
l’Orange_ or _Charlotte Russe aux Fraises_, etc.
2638—CREAMS
Cold creams, served as entremets, belong to two very distinct classes:
(1) _Cooked Creams_, which are, in short, but a variety of custard.
(2) _The Creams derived from natural, fresh cream_, whipped and
sugared, the generic type of which is Chantilly cream.
_Cooked Creams_ are prepared either in special little pots, in small
silver or porcelain bowls, or in moulds. Those prepared in moulds are
turned out when they are quite cold, and are called “Crèmes renversées”
to distinguish them from the first two kinds which are always served in
the utensil in which they have cooked.
For all that, the term “Crème renversée” has grown somewhat obsolete,
and the modern expression for this kind of custards is “Crème moulée.”
_Crème au Caramel_ represents a perfect type of this class.
The custards served in their cooking-receptacles are more delicate than
the others, because their preparation does not demand such a large
quantity of eggs; but they are only served in the home, like English
custard. For a stylish luncheon or dinner, moulded custards (Fr.
crèmes moulées) are best.
2639—CRÈME A LA VANILLE, MOULÉE
Boil one quart of milk containing one-half lb. of sugar; add a stick of
vanilla, and let the latter infuse for twenty minutes. Pour this milk,
little by little, over three eggs and eight yolks, previously whisked
in a basin, and whisk briskly the while. Pass the whole through a fine
sieve; let it rest for a moment or two; then completely remove all the
froth lying on its surface, and pour the preparation into buttered
moulds or into vases specially made for this purpose. Set to poach in a
_bain-marie_, in a moderate oven, keeping lids on the utensils.
Not for one moment must the water in the _bain-marie_ boil while the
poaching is in progress; for the air contained by the preparation would
then become over-heated, and the result would be an infinity of small
holes throughout the depth of the custard, which would greatly mar its
appearance.
As a matter of fact, the custard should poach, that is to say,
coagulate, as the result of the surrounding water being kept at a
constant temperature of 185° F. As soon as it is poached, let the
custard cool.
When it is poached in the utensils in which it is served, one egg and
eight yolks per quart of milk will be found sufficient. The utensils
should be carefully wiped and dished on a napkin.
If the custard is to be turned out, carefully overturn the mould upon a
dish, and pull it off a few minutes later. Moulded and potted custards
admit of all the flavourings proper to entremets; but those which
suit them best are vanilla, almond milk, almond and filbert _pralin_,
coffee, chocolate, etc. Unless used in the form of very concentrated
essences, fruit flavours are less suited to them.
2640—CRÈME AU CARAMEL
_Clothe_ the bottom and sides of a mould with sugar cooked to the
_golden-caramel_ stage, and fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured,
moulded-custard preparation. Poach and turn it out as directed.
2641—CRÈME A LA VIENNOISE, MOULÉE
This is a custard with caramel, but instead of _clothing_ the mould
with the latter, it is dissolved in the hot milk. The custard should be
treated exactly like the vanilla-flavoured kind.
2642—CRÈME A LA FLORENTINE
Make a preparation of _pralin_-flavoured custard with caramel and poach
it.
When it is quite cold, turn it out on a dish; decorate it with
Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with chopped
pistachios.
2643—CRÈME A L’OPÉRA
Poach, in an ornamented border-mould, a preparation of
_pralin_-flavoured custard. When it is turned out, garnish its midst
with a dome of Chantilly cream, aromatised with _pralined_ violets.
Upon the border set a crown of fine strawberries, macerated in a
Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and cover with a veil of sugar cooked to the
_large-crack_ stage.
=Cold Creams with a Whisked-Cream Base.=
2644—CRÈME A LA CHANTILLY
Take some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it
is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it
eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with
vanilla or fruit essence.
Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be
prepared only at the last moment.
2645—CRÈME AUX FRUITS A LA CHANTILLY
The constituents for this preparation are a purée of the selected fruit
and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the former to
two-thirds of the latter.
The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to the
nature of the fruit.
It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl, with
a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted
with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady’s-finger biscuits
separately.
2646—CRÈME CAPRICE
Take some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its bulk
of roughly broken-up meringues. Put the preparation in an iced
_Madeleine-mould_, lined with white paper; seal up thoroughly; string
tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.
Turn out when about to serve; remove the paper; and decorate, by means
of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, with Chantilly cream,
tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry juice.
2647—BRISE DU PRINTEMPS
Take some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and set in
small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.
2648—NUÉES ROSES
Take some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured strawberry
purée, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.
2649—FLAMRI
Boil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle in it
eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five minutes. Then
add to the preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered sugar, a pinch of
table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour it into moulds with buttered sides; set these to poach in the
_bain-marie_, and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a purée
of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc.,
reasonably sugared.
2650—JELLIES
From the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two kinds:
(1) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies; (2) fruit jellies. But their
base is the same in all cases, _i.e._, gelatine dissolved in a certain
quantity of water.
The gelatine should be extracted from calf’s foot, by boiling the
latter; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the
means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine bought
ready-made may also be used in the quantities given below.
2651—CALF’S-FOOT JELLY
Take some fine soaked and _blanched_ calves’ feet, and set them to cook
in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as thoroughly
as possible; cover, and then cook very gently for seven hours. This
done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all grease; test its
strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice; rectify it if
necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more test it by
means of ice.
Per quart of calf’s-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of
cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their juice.
For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.
2652—JELLY WITH A GELATINE BASE
Dissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add
one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and the zest and
juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange; boil, and then let the
preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.
Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan, together with
a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the cleared syrup, little
by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly the while. Set the
saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking until the boil is reached;
then move the utensil to a corner of the stove, and keep the jelly only
just simmering for one-quarter of an hour.
At the end of that time the clarification is completed; strain the
jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl, and, if the
jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it again and
again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool before adding
any flavour.
_The Flavouring._—Whether the jelly be prepared from calves’ feet or
from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a cohered
syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the character of
a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are liqueurs, good
wines, and the juice of fruit; and the quantity of water prescribed
should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate addition of the
liquid flavouring.
Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be
prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the remaining
one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the form of Kirsch,
Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.
_A jelly flavoured with a good wine_, such as Champagne, Madeira,
Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths of a quart of
water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected wine.
In the case of _fruit jellies_, the procedure differs in accordance
with the kind of fruit used.
For _red-fruit jellies_, prepared from strawberries, raspberries,
red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should be
very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-tenth to
three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to whether the
fruit be more or less juicy.
This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in
the proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter.
The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous
preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in
spite of the added juice.
When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve; let the juice
ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which results
from the fermentation.
_Aqueous-fruit jellies_, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons, and
tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these fruit
juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not be set
to ferment.
When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added to the
jelly even before the clarification—a procedure which helps to modify
their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices to the jelly is
practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.
_Stone-fruit_, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc.,
are often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring
base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are first
plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled; they are then
poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards preparing the
jelly.
This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled, should
have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its fruit flavour
may be intensified.
2653—THE GARNISH AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF JELLIES
As a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they are
garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically
distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.
A jelly prepared in this way is called a “Suédoise of fruit.”
2654—GELÉES RUBANNÉES
These are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies
moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.
They are generally served without garnish.
2655—JELLIES A LA RUSSE
These are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they begin
to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully mixing two or
three of these jellies, of different shades and flavours, at the moment
of moulding, very effective “Marbled Jellies” are obtained.
2656—JELLIES A LA MOSCOVITE
These are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds, the
sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round the
edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with broken ice,
mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per
twenty-five lb. of ice.
The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to form round
the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty. But the moulds
should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the frosted coat is formed
and the jelly is set; for a longer sojourn in the cold would transform
the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.
N.B.—Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and serving of
jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or deep dishes,
and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of these utensils is
sometimes decked with stewed fruit or _macédoines_ of fruit which are
covered with the jelly; and, as the latter is served in the utensil
itself, the quantity of gelatine may be reduced, and greater delicacy
is the result.
2657—PAINS DE FRUITS
These “pains” are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.
_Clothe_ the mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping with
the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, strawberries,
red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould with a
preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without cream.
The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.
2658—COLD PUDDINGS
Cold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois and, more
often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same base. Their
distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois are generally
served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings always have either
one or the other, and sometimes both.
The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of this
chapter.
Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either
stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with the
pudding paste.
2659—PUDDING A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Make some very small pancakes, and garnish them with a _salpicon_ of
candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water, cohered with some
fairly stiff, apple purée. Close up the pancakes to the shape of balls
or rectangles, and set them in a buttered border-mould. Fill up the
mould with a moulded-custard preparation (No. 2639), containing a good
proportion of whole eggs, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
Leave the whole to cool in the mould; turn out at the last moment, and
coat the pudding with a _sabayon_, flavoured according to fancy.
2660—PUDDING DIPLOMATE
Decorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with pieces
of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers of
vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and “lady’s-finger-biscuits,”
saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle some
currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and there set a
tablespoonful of apricot jam.
Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and turn out
just before serving.
2661—PUDDING DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS
Prepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of fresh
fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots,
etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated
with powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch,
Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.
When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some very cold
stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside the pudding, or
some stewed, mixed fruit.
2662—PUDDING MALAKOFF
Prepare (1) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint of
very fresh, raw cream per quart; (2) a stew of apples and pears,
prepared as for an apple Charlotte; currants and sultanas, swelled in
tepid syrup; fresh splintered almonds; candied orange rind, cut into
dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated
with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it a layer of cream
half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay a thickness of biscuits,
copiously coated with marmalade, and sprinkle with raisins, almonds and
orange-rind dice.
Cover with a layer of cream; lay a second thickness of biscuits, and
proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured cold _sabayon_.
2663—PUDDING A LA NESSELRODE
To an English custard, prepared after No. 2397, add eight oz. of a
smooth, chestnut purée, and four oz. of currants and sultanas (swelled
in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries, cut into dice;
these four products should be in almost equal quantities, and ought to
have been previously macerated in sweetened Madeira.
Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the preparation;
apportioning it as for a Bavarois.
Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white paper;
pour the preparation into the mould; completely close the latter,
sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround the utensil
with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn out on a napkin;
remove the paper, and surround the base of the pudding with a crown of
fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of chocolate-iced, candied chestnut
purée.
N.B.—The English custard may be packed in the freezer, mixed with
whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then placed in a mould.
2664—PUDDING A LA RICHELIEU
Rub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the purée equal
quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the reduced juice
of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch thick, of the
preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould. In the latter set
a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with broken ice, and either
fitted with handles that can rest on the brim of the first mould, or
else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped and removed when necessary.
The space between the sides of the two moulds should measure about
three-quarters of an inch.
Fill up this space with what remains of the prune purée, thickened
with jelly; leave the preparation to set; withdraw the ice from the
little mould; pour some tepid water into the latter, that it may be
immediately detached from the surrounding, iced preparation.
Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-flavoured
Bavarois preparation; leave to set, and turn out at the last moment on
a napkin.
2665—PUDDING OR “CRÈME REINE DES FÉES”
Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italian _meringue_ (No. 2383),
and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince jelly, and, at
the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice,
_macerated_ in Kirsch and carefully drained. Set the _meringue_, in
shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of paper.
Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four quarts
of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-quarter pint
of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling syrup; withdraw it
as soon as it easily separates from the pieces of _meringue_; poach
the latter; drain them on a piece of linen and let them cool.
Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations; one white and
vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curaçao. In
these preparations the quantity of whisked cream should be twice as
much as for ordinary Bavarois, whereas the quantity of gelatine should
be reduced by half.
Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-oiled
iced-_Madeleine mould_, distributing the _meringues_ between each layer.
Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it surrounded
by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it out on a napkin.
COLD FRUIT ENTREMETS.
=Apricots (Abricots).=
2666—ABRICOTS A LA PARISIENNE
Poach the halved apricots in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Cool them and
drain them; and reconstruct the apricots by joining the halves together
with a piece of vanilla ice-cream, the size of a walnut, in the centre.
Set these apricots upon some large overturned macaroons; cover with
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, shaped like a cone and sprinkle with
fine filbert _pralin_.
2667—ABRICOTS A LA ROYALE
Take some fairly deep tartlet moulds, and set in them some fine, cold,
half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Fill up the tartlet
moulds with very limpid, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.
Prepare a shallow, _Génoise_ border, glazed with red-currant jelly,
cooked to the _small-thread_ stage, and sprinkle with chopped
pistachios.
Turn out the tartlets of apricot jelly and place them in a crown
over the border. Garnish the centre of the latter with chopped
anisette-flavoured pink jelly.
=Pine-apple (Ananas).=
2668—ANANAS GEORGETTE
Take a fine whole pine-apple, and hollow it out to within half an inch
of its outside all round and at the bottom. Put aside the slice cut
from the top, on which is the bunch of leaves.
Fill the inside with a Bavarois preparation made from pine-apple purée,
combined with the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, cut into thin slices,
and leave to set. Dish on a napkin, and return the top slice to the
pine-apple, that it may seem untouched.
2669—ANANAS A LA VIRGINIE
Proceed exactly as above, but replace the pine-apple Bavarois
preparation by a strawberry kind, combined, as before, with the pulp
withdrawn from the inside of the pine-apple, cut into dice.
2670—ANANAS A LA NINON
Line the sides of a _soufflé_ timbale with vanilla ice-cream, laying it
in an oblique strip from the edge of the utensil to the centre of the
bottom of the timbale. Upon this layer of ice-cream set two or three
rows of thin pine-apple slices, in such a way as to make the slices of
the last row project beyond the edge of the timbale.
In the centre of the mould build a pyramid of wild strawberries; cover
this with a raspberry purée, and sprinkle the latter with chopped
pistachios.
2670a—PINE-APPLE A LA ROYALE
Take a fresh pine-apple and cut a slice from its top, containing
the bunch of leaves. Withdraw the pulp from the inside, and leave a
thickness of about half an inch all round and on the bottom.
Fill it with a _macédoine_ of fresh fruit macerated in Kirsch; set it
in the middle of a crystal bowl; and surround the base with a crown
of fine Montreuil peaches, poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup,
alternated by large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch.
Return the bunch of leaves to its place upon the pine-apple.
=Cherries (Cerises).=
2671—CERISES A LA DUBARRY
Line a flawn-ring with good, short paste; set it on a small round
baking-sheet; prick the paste on the bottom to prevent its blistering
while baking, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and garnish with fine,
stoned cherries, pressed snugly one against the other.
Bake the flawn in the usual way and let it cool.
When it is quite cold cover the cherries with Chantilly cream,
combined either with ordinary _pralin_ or with crushed macaroons.
Smooth the surface of the cream, as also the sides of the flawn; cover
it with macaroon powder, and then decorate by means of the piping-bag
with white and pink Chantilly cream.
2672—CERISES AU CLARET
Select some fine cherries; cut off the ends of their stalks, and set
them in a silver timbale. Pour sufficient sweetened Bordeaux wine
(flavoured with a mite of cinnamon) over them, to just cover them.
Close the timbale, and keep it on the side of the fire for ten minutes,
that the cherries may poach.
Let them cool in the syrup; drain the latter away; reduce it by a
third, and add, in order to thicken it slightly, one tablespoonful of
red-currant jelly per six tablespoonfuls of reduced syrup.
Serve the cherries quite cold, and some lady’s-finger biscuits
separately.
=Strawberries (Fraises).=
2673—FRAISES A LA CRÉOLE
Set some fine strawberries and an equal amount of pine-apple, cut into
dice, to macerate in powdered sugar and Kirsch.
Arrange a close crown of pine-apple slices, also macerated in Kirsch,
upon a tazza. In the middle of the crown build a pyramid of the
strawberries and pine-apple, and sprinkle with a Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
2674—FRAISES FEMINA
Select some fine strawberries; sprinkle them with sugar and
Grand-Marnier Curaçao, and leave them to macerate on ice for an hour.
When about to serve, spread on the bottom of a bowl or timbale a layer
of orange-ice (which should be combined with the macerating liqueur)
and set the strawberries thereon.
2675—FRAISES MARGUERITE
Set some wild strawberries to macerate in sugar and Kirsch. Drain them;
cohere them with an equal quantity of pomegranate sherbet; set them in
a silver timbale, already surrounded with ice; cover the strawberries
with Maraschino-flavoured Chantilly cream, and decorate with the
latter.
2676—FRAISES MARQUISE
Set in a timbale surrounded with ice some Chantilly cream, combined
with half its bulk of a purée of wild strawberries. Completely cover
this cream with fine, fair-sized selected strawberries (macerated with
Kirsch), rolled at the last minute in semolina sugar.
2677—FRAISES MELBA
Garnish the bottom of a timbale with vanilla ice-cream. Upon this
arrange a layer of choice strawberries, and cover the latter with a
thick, slightly-sugared, fresh raspberry purée.
2678—FRAISES NINA
Prepare the strawberries as directed under No. 2675, and cohere them
with pine-apple sherbet. Dish them as before in a timbale, and cover
them with some Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a red-capsicum
purée flavoured with ginger.
2679—FRAISES ROMANOFF
Macerate some fine strawberries with orange juice and Curaçao. Set them
in a timbale surrounded with ice, and cover them with Chantilly cream,
laid upon them by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a large, grooved
pipe.
2680—FRAISES WILHELMINE
Macerate some fine, large strawberries with Kirsch, powdered sugar,
and orange juice. Dish them in a timbale and serve a vanilla-flavoured
Chantilly cream separately.
2681—FRAISES LÉRINA
Take a small black melon of Carmes; open it by cutting out a
bung-shaped piece containing the stalk, and remove all its seeds. Then
cut out all the pulp, by means of a dessert-spoon, and sprinkle it with
powdered sugar.
Macerate the required number of strawberries in Lérina liqueur.
Garnish the inside of the melon with these strawberries and the
withdrawn pulp; close the melon by replacing the bung cut out at the
start, and keep in a refrigerator for two hours, surrounded by ice.
Dish on a napkin at the last moment.
2682—FRAISES “RÊVE DE BÉBÉ”
Select a fair-sized, very ripe pine-apple, cut off a slice of it at the
top and withdraw all its pulp without bursting the rind.
Prepare a square cushion of _Génoise_, about two inches thick; slightly
hollow it out towards its centre, that the emptied pine-apple may be
set upright upon it; and stick the cushion upon a dry-paste base, of
the same size and shape as the former. Glaze the _Génoise_ cushion with
pink fondant, decorate with “royale” glaze, and set a large strawberry
at each corner.
Slice half of the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, and macerate it with
Kirsch, Maraschino and sugar. Pound the remaining pulp and press it in
order to extract its juice.
Set to macerate with this pine-apple juice a sufficient quantity of
strawberries to three-parts fill the pine-apple.
When about to serve, fill the emptied pine-apple with successive and
alternate layers of pine-apple with Kirsch and strawberries; and,
between each layer, spread a coat of vanilla-flavoured, Chantilly cream.
Close the pine-apple with the slice cut off at the start, and set it
upright in the hollow of the cushion. Serve the preparation very cold.
2683—FRAISES A LA RITZ
Set some well-sugared and cooled strawberries in a timbale, and
cover them with the following preparation: rub half-pound of wild
strawberries through a sieve; add a little Melba sauce to the purée,
that it may acquire a pink tint; and then add the same quantity of very
stiff vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
Thoroughly cool these strawberries before serving them.
2684—FRAISES CARDINAL
Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale; coat them with Melba
sauce, or a purée of fresh raspberries, and sprinkle the latter with
splintered fresh almonds.
2685—FRAISES ZELMA KUNTZ
Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale. Cover them with a
raspberry purée, combined with an equal quantity of Chantilly cream.
Decorate, by means of the piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and
sprinkle with a powdered _pralin_ of filberts.
=Gooseberries (Groseilles vertes).=
2686—GOOSEBERRY FOOL
Poach one pound of green gooseberries in some thin syrup. When they
are cooked, thoroughly drain them; rub them through a sieve, and
collect the purée in a flat saucepan.
Work this purée on ice, and add the necessary amount of icing sugar to
it.
The amount of the icing sugar varies according to the acidity of the
fruit and the sweetness of the poaching-syrup.
Combine with the purée an equal quantity of very stiffly whipped cream;
set the preparation in the shape of a dome in a timbale: decorate its
surface, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and serve very
cold.
=Tangerines (Mandarines).=
2687—MANDARINES ALMINA
Cut a slice of the rind from the stem-end of the tangerines by means
of a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. Then empty them, and
fill the rinds with a preparation of Bavarois with violets, combined
with crumbled lady’s-finger biscuits, sprinkled with Maraschino. Close
the tangerines with the slice cut off at the start; let them set in a
cool place, and, at the last moment, lay them on a dish covered with a
folded napkin.
2688—MANDARINES A LA CRÈME
Empty the tangerines, and fill their peels with a somewhat thick
tangerine Bavarois preparation, combined with a third of its bulk of
fresh, raw cream.
Place them in ice until they have to be served; dish them as directed
in the preceding recipe.
2689—MANDARINES EN SURPRISE
Proceed as for the oranges, but for the orange ice substitute tangerine
jelly.
=Oranges.=
2690—ORANGES AU BLANC-MANGE
Cut the oranges and empty them as directed in the case of tangerines.
Then fill them with French blanc-mange (No. 2625), and let it set.
Close the oranges with the slices cut off at the start, and dish them
on a napkin.
2691—ORANGES RUBANNÉES
Garnish the empty orange-rinds with regular layers of variously
coloured and flavoured blanc-manges, or with alternated fruit jellies.
When about to serve, quarter the oranges.
N.B.—These quartered oranges are sometimes used for the garnishing of
cold entremets.
2692—ORANGES EN SURPRISE
Cut a lateral slice from each orange, representing about one-fourth of
their height, and empty them. Garnish the peels with orange ice; cover
the latter with Italian _meringue_; set the garnished peels on broken
ice, lying on a tray, and set them in a sufficiently hot oven, to
quickly colour the _meringue_. On taking the oranges out of the oven,
close each with the slices cut from them at the start, in which are
stuck imitation leaves and stalks, made from pulled sugar. Dish them on
a napkin.
2693—ORANGES SOUFFLÉES EN SURPRISE
Empty the oranges as above; garnish the rinds with an orange _soufflé_
preparation, and cook the latter.
On taking the oranges out of the oven, cover the _soufflé_ with the
slices cut off at the start; dish the oranges on a napkin, and serve
them instantly.
=Peaches and Nectarines (Pêches et Nectarines).=
As nectarines may be prepared after the same recipes as peaches, there
is no need to give special recipes for the former.
2694—PÊCHES AIGLON
After having peeled the peaches, poach them in a vanilla-flavoured
syrup, and leave them to cool therein. Drain them, dish them upon
a layer of vanilla ice-cream, spread in a false-bottomed silver
timbale, the inner compartment of which contains broken ice. Sprinkle
crystallised violets over the peaches; set the timbale on a block of
ice, carved to represent an eagle, and cover the whole with a veil of
spun sugar.
2695—PÊCHES A L’AURORE
Poach the peeled peaches in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and let them cool
there. Drain them; dish them in a silver timbale, upon a layer of “iced
mousse with strawberries,” and coat the whole with a Curaçao-flavoured
_sabayon_.
2696—PÊCHES ALEXANDRA
Poach the peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them completely
cool. Dish them in a timbale surrounded by ice containing on its bottom
a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with a strawberry purée. Sprinkle
the peaches with white and red rose-petals, and veil the whole with
spun sugar.
2697—PÊCHES CARDINAL
Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and, when they are quite
cold, dish them in a timbale. Cover them with a very red, sweetened,
raspberry purée, flavoured with Kirsch, and sprinkled with very white,
splintered fresh almonds.
2698—PÊCHES DAME-BLANCHE
Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are cold, set
them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with thin
slices of pine-apple macerated in Maraschino and Kirsch.
Between each peach, and in every crevice, put some balls of Chantilly
cream, laid by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe.
2699—PÊCHES MELBA
Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a timbale
upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, and coat them with a raspberry purée.
2700—PÊCHES PETIT-DUC
Prepare the peaches as under No. 2698, but use small heaps of
red-currant jelly instead of balls of cream.
2701—PÊCHES A LA SULTANE
Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool.
Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of pistachio ice, and coat them
with very cold, thickened syrup, flavoured with rose essence.
Veil the whole with spun sugar, and set the timbale upon a block of ice.
2702—PÊCHES AU CHATEAU-LAFFITE
Scald the peaches; peel them, and cut them in two.
Poach them in sufficient Château-Laffite wine to cover them, and sugar
the wine to the extent of ten oz. of sugar per bottle.
Leave them to cool in the syrup, and dish them in a silver timbale.
Reduce the wine by three-quarters; thicken it with a little
raspberry-flavoured, red-currant jelly.
When this syrup is quite cold, sprinkle the peaches with it.
2703—PÊCHES A L’IMPÉRATRICE
Cut the peaches in two; poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and
let them cool. Then drain and dry them; garnish the cut side of each
of the half-peaches with enough vanilla ice-cream to give them the
appearance of whole fruit. Coat the peach-side of each with some stiff
apricot sauce, and roll them in _pralined_ splintered almonds.
Dish these peaches upon a cushion of _Génoise_, saturated with Kirsch
and Maraschino, set upon a dry-paste base, and glazed with raspberry
glaze.
Veil the whole with spun sugar.
2704—PÊCHES ROSE-CHÉRI
Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Dish
them in a timbale; cover them with a purée of pine-apple with Clicquot,
and serve very cold.
2705—PÊCHES ROSE-POMPON
Scald and peel some fine peaches; poach them in vanilla-flavoured
syrup, and let them cool. Stone them without opening or breaking them
overmuch, and in the place of the stone, put some very firm vanilla
ice-cream.
Set these reconstructed peaches in a silver timbale, upon a layer of
raspberry ice; cover them with _pralined_ Chantilly cream; and before
serving put them for thirty minutes in the refrigerator.
At the last moment, veil the timbale with pink, spun sugar.
=Pears (Poires).=
2706—POIRES ALMA
Peel the pears and poach them in a syrup made from one quart of water,
one-half pint of port wine, eight ounces of sugar, and the _blanched_
and chopped _zest_ of an orange. Cool: dish them in a timbale; sprinkle
them with powdered _pralin_, and serve a Chantilly cream at the same
time.
2707—POIRES CARDINAL
Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed as
directed under No. 2697.
2708—POIRES A LA CARIGNAN
Evenly turn some very fine dessert pears, and cook them in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup; keeping them fairly firm. Drain them on a dish
and let them cool. This done, trim them flat at their base, and empty
them from underneath by means of a root spoon, after having outlined
the circumference of the opening with an even round cutter.
Fill them with a preparation of “Bombe au chocolat praliné” (see Bombe,
No. 2826).
Close them up with a little roundel of _Génoise_, stamped out by means
of the same cutter as that used above.
Set the pears on a tray; coat them speedily with apricot jam cooked
to the _small-thread_ stage; glaze them with chocolate fondant, and
keep them for three hours in a very cold refrigerator. Meanwhile,
prepare as many small _Génoise_ squares as there are pears; and make
them one-quarter inch wider than the diameter of the pears. Saturate
these square bases with Anisette, and by means of a little apricot jam
cooked to the _small-thread_ stage, stick each of them on to very thin,
dry-paste bases of the same size. Coat these prepared bases with the
same apricot jam, and garnish them all round, as also their uncovered
corners, with _pralined_ splintered almonds.
When about to serve, take the pears out of the refrigerator, set them
on these bases: stick into each a stalk and a leaf, made from pulled
sugar; and dish on a napkin.
N.B.—Each pear should be cut vertically into two, three, or four
pieces, subject to its size.
2709—POIRES FÉLICIA
Poach some quartered William pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let
them cool. Cook also, in a pink syrup, some very small halved pears.
Dish the quarters in the middle of a border of Viennese cream
(No. 2641) laid out upon a dish. Cover them with a pyramid of
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with
crushed, red pralines.
Surround the cream border with the pink half-pears.
2710—POIRES A LA FLORENTINE
Fill an oiled border-mould with a semolina Bavarois preparation, and
let it set. Turn it out at the last moment, and garnish the middle of
the border with stewed pears, cohered by means of a vanilla-flavoured
apricot purée.
2711—POIRES HÉLÈNE
Poach the pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool.
When about to serve, dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla
ice-cream, sprinkled with crystallised violets.
Serve a hot, chocolate sauce separately.
2712—POIRES MARQUISE
Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and drain them that they
may cool. This done, coat them again and again with some very stiff
raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly, and sprinkle them instantly with
chopped, burnt almonds.
Set the pears on a “Diplomatic Pudding,” made in a manqué mould, and
turned out on a round dish. Surround the base of the pudding with a
border of apple-jelly _croûtons_, neatly cut to triangular shapes.
2713—POIRES MARY-GARDEN
Cook the pears in syrup; cool them, and dish them on a timbale, upon
a Melba sauce, combined with half-sugared cherries, softened in tepid
water for a few minutes.
Decorate the pears with Chantilly cream.
2714—POIRES MELBA
Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and proceed as directed
under No. 2699.
2715—POIRES PRALINEES
Stew the pears and let them cool. Set them in a timbale, and coat with
some Frangipan cream, thinned by means of a little raw cream.
Between each pear, set a well-moulded tablespoonful of Chantilly cream,
and cover the whole with _concassed_-almond _pralin_.
Serve a cold or hot chocolate sauce at the same time.
2716—POIRES A LA RELIGIEUSE
Stew the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; cool them, and dish them
in a shallow porcelain timbale equal in depth to the length of the
pears.
Cover them with a somewhat thin chocolate Bavarois preparation, and
place the whole for two hours in the refrigerator before serving.
2717—POIRES AU RHUM
Stew the pears and set them in a timbale.
Thicken the syrup with arrowroot, colour it faintly with pink; flavour
it with rum; pour it over the pears, and let them cool.
N.B.—These pears may also be served hot, after the same recipe; except
that the rum is poured over the pears, hot, at the last moment, and set
alight at the table.
2718—POIRES A LA REINE EMMA
Mould a Flamri preparation in an even border-mould, decorated with
candied fruit. Set this to poach, and, when it is cold, turn it out on
a round dish.
In the middle set a pyramid of quartered pears, stewed in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup; coat the quarters with Frangipan cream,
combined with a quarter of its bulk of crushed, dry macaroons, and with
double its volume of very stiff Chantilly cream.
Decorate the top, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream; and
serve some Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
=Apples.=
2719—POMMES A LA ROYALE
Peel some small apples, core them by means of a tube-cutter, and poach
them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are quite cold, coat them
with red-currant jelly, and dish them in a circle, each upon a tartlet
of blanc-mange. Garnish their midst with chopped Maraschino jelly.
=Various Cold Sweets (Entremets).=
2720—BISCUIT A LA REINE
Cook, in a manqué mould, a Savoy-biscuit preparation, and let it cool.
With a little apricot jam, cooked to the _small-thread_ stage, stick
this biscuit on a dry-paste base; saturate it with cold syrup,
flavoured with Kümmel, and by means of a piping-bag decorate it all
round and on its edges with royale icing.
Turn out upon it a Bavarois with Maraschino, moulded in a Richelieu
mould of proportionate size.
2721—CROÛTE A LA MEXICAINE
Cut some slices three inches long by one-third inch thick from a stale
_Génoise_. Coat them with a Condé _pralin_, and dry them in a moderate
oven.
Set these croûtes in a crown on a round dish, and garnish their midst
with a rocky pyramid of plombière ice, projecting above them.
2722—DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS
Prepare (1) a base of _Génoise_ with fruit, glazed with apricot jam,
cooked to the _small-thread_ stage; (2) a Bavarois with fruits.
Turn out the latter upon the former, and surround the whole with stewed
fruit of the same kind as those used for the Bavarois.
2723—ILE FLOTTANTE
Take a stale Savoy biscuit, and cut it into thin slices.
Saturate the latter with Kirsch and Maraschino, coat them with apricot
jam, and sprinkle the latter with currants and chopped almonds. Put the
slices one upon the other, in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit,
and coat the latter with a layer of sweetened and vanilla-flavoured
Chantilly cream.
Sprinkle the cream with splintered pistachios and currants; set the
whole on a tazza, and surround it with vanilla-flavoured English
custard, or raspberry syrup.
2724—MILK JUNKET
Gently heat one quart of milk. When it has reached 95° F. take it off
the fire; add two and one-half oz. of sugar to it; flavour it as fancy
may suggest; put into it six drops of russet-apple essence (or two
pastils of russet-apple essence, dissolved in six drops of water); pour
it into a timbale, and serve it very cold.
N.B.—This very delicate and simple entremet is little else, indeed,
than flavoured and sweetened milk, caused to set by the combined
agencies of heat and russet-apple essence.
2725—MACÉDOINE OF COOLED FRUIT
Take some fresh fruit of the season, such as ripe William pears and
peaches, peeled and sliced apricots and bananas, and add to it some
small or large strawberries, raspberries, white- and red-currants;
skinned, fresh almonds, etc.
Set these fruits in a timbale surrounded by ice, mixing them well
together; sprinkle them with a syrup at 30° (saccharom.), flavoured
with Kirsch or Maraschino, and let them _macerate_ for an hour or two;
taking care to toss them from time to time.
2726—EUGENIA: ITALIAN CREAM
Select some very ripe Eugenia; peel, slice, and set to macerate in a
bowl, with Maraschino-flavoured syrup.
Set the fruit in a timbale, upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream; decorate
them on top with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with
crystallised violets.
2727—MARQUISE ALICE
Prepare a _pralin_-flavoured Bavarois in a manqué mould: garnish the
inside with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Anisette.
Turn it out on a dish, and completely cover it with an even coat of
very stiff, sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
On top, lay some parallel lines of red-currant jelly, by means of the
piping-bag; and then cut these lines at right angles, with the point
of a small knife. Surround the base with small puff-paste triangles,
coated with “_Pralin a Condé_,” dried in the oven.
2728—MELON A L’ORIENTALE
Take a melon that is just ripe; make a circular incision round its
stalk, and remove the resulting bung. Get rid of the seeds and withdraw
the pulp by means of a silver spoon. Cut the pulp into dice.
Copiously sprinkle the inside of the melon with icing-sugar and fill
it up with wild strawberries and the pulp dice, spread in alternate
layers, sprinkled with sugar. Complete with one-sixth pint of Kirsch;
close the melon with the excised bung, seal the joint with a thread of
butter, and keep the melon in the cool for two hours.
Dish it on a napkin, and serve _gaufrettes_ at the same time.
2729—MELON FRAPPE
Select two very ripe, medium-sized melons, and, with the entire pulp
of one of them, cleared of all the rind and seeds and rubbed through
tammy, prepare a Granité after No. 2930.
Cut the other melon round the stalk and open it. Completely remove the
seeds; and, by means of a silver spoon, withdraw the pulp piecemeal,
and set it to _macerate_ on ice with a little sugar and one of the
following wines or liqueurs: Port, Curaçao, Rum, Kirsch or Maraschino.
Keep the emptied rind for thirty minutes in a refrigerator.
When about to serve, set the emptied melon on a small block of
fancifully carved ice, and fill it up with the Granité and the
_macerated_ pulp spread in alternate layers. When the melon is full,
return the excised bung to its place.
N.B.—This melon is served, by means of a spoon, upon iced plates, and
it often takes the place of ices at the end of a dinner.
2730—MELON EN SURPRISE
Empty the melon as above, and fill it with a _macédoine_ of fresh
fruits, combined with the withdrawn pulp of the melon, cut into
dice and cohered with a sugared and Kirsch-flavoured purée of wild
strawberries.
Close the melon and keep it in the refrigerator for two hours.
2731—GARNISHED MERINGUES
Join the _meringue_ shells together in couples, by means of some stiff
sugared and flavoured Chantilly cream or with some sort of ice, and
dish them on a napkin.
2732—MONT-BLANC AUX FRAISES
Add some small wild strawberries _macerated_ in cold, vanilla-flavoured
syrup and drained, to some very stiff Chantilly cream; the proportions
being four oz. of the former per quart of the latter.
Dish in the shape of a dome; surround the base with large strawberries,
rolled in beaten egg-whites and then in semolina sugar, and decorate
the surface with large and very red half-strawberries.
2733—MONT-BLANC AUX MARRONS
Cook some chestnuts in sweetened and vanilla-flavoured milk and rub
them through a sieve, over an overturned, even border-mould; in order
that the chestnut purée, falling in the form of vermicelli, may garnish
the mould naturally.
Fill up the mould with the purée that has fallen over the sides of the
mould; turn out the border on a dish, and in the midst set an irregular
and jagged mound of sugared and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
2734—MONT-ROSE
Prepare a Charlotte, Plombière in a shallow _Madeleine_ ice-mould.
Having turned out the Charlotte on a dish, cover it on top with
tablespoonfuls of Chantilly cream, combined with a purée of fresh
raspberries, and so shaped as to imitate a pyramidic rock.
2735—ŒUFS A LA NEIGE
Mould some ordinary _meringue_, by means of a spoon, to represent eggs;
and drop the mouldings into a sautépan containing some boiling sugared
and vanilla-flavoured milk. Turn the _meringues_ over in the milk, that
they may poach evenly, and, as soon as they are firm, drain them in a
sieve.
Strain the milk through muslin; add six egg yolks, and with it prepare
an English custard.
Set the egg-shaped _meringues_ on a tazza and cover them with the
prepared custard, kept very cold.
2736—MOULDED ŒUFS A LA NEIGE
Prepare the _meringues_ and the English custard as above; but to the
latter add five or six gelatine leaves soaked in cold water. Set the
egg-shaped _meringues_ in an oiled border-mould; cover them with the
very cold custard, which, however, should not have set; and let the
preparation set in the cool, or surrounded by ice.
2737—MOUSSELINES D’ŒUFS REJANE
By means of a piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, lay some ordinary
_meringues_ upon sheets of white paper, in shapes resembling large
macaroons.
Slip the sheets of paper into boiling, sugared and vanilla-flavoured
milk, and withdraw the sheets of paper as soon as the _meringues_ sever
from them. Complete the poaching of the _meringues_, and drain them.
Set these _meringues_, two by two, in silver or porcelain egg-dishes;
place a fine, poached half apricot in the middle of each, and cover the
whole with a few teaspoonfuls of English custard.
2738—MOUSSELINE OF EGGS, MIMI
This is a preparation of ordinary Italian _meringue_, poached in a
_bain-marie_, in a caramel-_clothed_ mould. Let the contents get quite
cold before turning out, and serve some stewed, fresh fruit and an
English custard separately.
2739—RICE A L’IMPÉRATRICE
Make a vanilla-flavoured preparation of rice for entremets, using
the quantities of milk and sugar already prescribed. When the rice
is cooked, and somewhat cold, add to it four oz. of a _salpicon_ of
candied fruit and four tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, per one-half lb.
of raw rice. Then combine with it an equal quantity of Kirsch-flavoured
Bavarois preparation, or one pint of thick English custard and one pint
of whipped cream.
Let a layer of red-currant jelly set upon the bottom of a Bavarois
mould; then pour the above preparation into the latter and let the
whole set, either in the cool or surrounded by ice.
When about to serve, turn out on a napkin.
2740—RICE A LA MALTAISE
Prepare the rice with milk as above, but flavour it with orange rind,
and omit the apricot jam and the candied fruit _salpicon_. Combine with
it an equal quantity of orange Bavarois preparation; pour the whole
into a dome-mould, and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out
upon a round dish, and cover it with alternate rows of orange-sections,
skinned raw and macerated in a syrup flavoured with orange-rind.
2741—SUÉDOISE OF FRUIT
As I mentioned in my remarks upon the preparation of jellies, a
Suédoise of fruit is a jelly moulded in an aspic mould and garnished
with layers of stewed fruit, the colours and kinds of which should be
contrasted as much as possible.
2742—FRAISALIA TIMBALE
Prepare a timbale of Savarin paste in a Charlotte mould.
When it is baked and cooled, remove the crumb from its inside leaving a
thickness of half an inch on its bottom and sides; smear it thinly with
Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and return the timbale to the mould.
Now garnish it with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured, Bavarois
preparation and wild strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. Let it set in
the cool, or surround the mould with ice. Turn out the timbale first
upon a plate; overturn it on a dish, and upon it set a pyramid of
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. Stud the latter all over with small,
very red strawberries, or garnish it with large half-strawberries.
Surround the timbale with fine dice of strawberry jelly.
2743—TIVOLI AUX FRAISES
_Clothe_ an ornamented mould, fitted with a central tube, with a
thick coat of very clear, Kirsch-flavoured jelly. Fill the mould
with a Bavarois preparation, combined with plenty of wild strawberry
purée, and let its contents set. Turn it out, when about to serve, and
surround it with very clear, chopped, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.
CHAPTER XXI
ICES
Ices, with their accompanying “petits fours,” bring the dinner to a
close—at least as far as Cookery is concerned; and, when they are well
prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation of all that is
delicate and good. In no other department of the work has the culinary
artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created such delectable
kickshaws; and, though Italy be the cradle of the ice-worker’s art,
though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained their reputation as
authorities in this matter, to French workmen, certainly, is due the
credit of those innovations which have perfected this important branch
of dietetic science.
2744—THE MAKING OF ICES
Whatever be the kind of ices required, they should always be prepared
in advance; for none of these preparations can be made ready at a
moment’s notice.
There are two distinct operations in the confection of ices:—
(1) The making of the preparation.
(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall begin by
dealing with the second operation, which remains the same for all ices,
and is the essential part of the procedure.
To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice, mixed
with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre. The
action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable drop in
the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous liquid. Subject
to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen directly in their
moulds, like the light ices: iced Biscuits, iced _Soufflés_, Puddings,
_Mousses_, Parfaits, Bombes, etc.; or first frozen in a special utensil
called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen afresh. Cream and syrup
ices are prepared by the second method; and this I shall now describe.
The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are generally wielded
by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism. They should
be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base on to a central pivot which
turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds the freezer.
Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken
ice containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per
twenty-five lbs.
The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in
order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into the
preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly massed,
by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This operation
constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least ten minutes in
advance if possible.
Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation to be
frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the utensil to and
fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the apparatus is worked by
hand), or by turning the handle if the utensil is on a central axle,
fitted with the usual mechanism. In either case, the rotary movement
of the utensil causes the preparation to splash continually against
the sides of the freezer, where it rapidly congeals, and the congealed
portions are removed by means of a special spatula, as quickly as
they form, until the whole becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The
delicacy and creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care
with which this freezing operation is effected; hence the preference
which is now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two
fans revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of
the machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the
preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but also
work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.
2745—THE MOULDING OF ICES
Having thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-form on a
napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past, or in glasses.
But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having closely-fitting
covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and banged on a folded
napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out any air which might be
the cause of holes being found in the preparation. When it is filled,
place the mould in a receptacle of a suitable size, and surround it
with broken ice, prepared as for the packing. The mould should remain
at least an hour in the ice, in the case of an ordinary ice, and an
extra two hours if the ice be light and not previously frozen as are
the Bombes.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it to rid it
of the taint of salt; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that the
surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily from the
mould. Overturn the mould; and turn out the ice upon a folded napkin
lying on a dish.
2746—PREPARATIONS FOR SIMPLE ICES
Preparations for simple ices are of two kinds: those made from cream,
and those made from syrup; the latter being principally used for fruit
ices.
As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations vary
exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a working
average.
If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in the
sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk; while, if the ices be required
harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above mentioned should be
proportionately reduced.
As an example of the difference that may exist between cream
preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be
made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of sugar
per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and fruit, their
preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°. (saccharometer)
respectively.
2747—ICE-CREAM PREPARATION (Generic Recipe)
Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan until the
mixture reaches the _ribbon_-stage. Dilute it, little by little, with
one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until the
preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it might
decompose the custard.
Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until it
is quite cold.
N.B.—For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of sugar and
number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not change. They are
only distinguishable by the particular flavour or infusion which may
happen to characterise them.
=Various Ice-Cream Preparations.=
2748—ALMOND ICE-CREAM
Finely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet almonds and
five bitter almonds; adding to them, little by little, in order to
facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.
Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in the
boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the same
quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.
2749—ASPARAGUS ICE-CREAM
Parboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes. Thoroughly
drain them; quickly pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of
milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the boiled milk.
2750—FILBERT ICE-CREAM
Slightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts; finely pound them,
together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting paste
to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
2751—COFFEE ICE-CREAM
Add two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the boiled
milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.
Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint of
water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half
pints of boiled milk.
2752—CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM
Dissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and add
thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of vanilla
has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz. of sugar
and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the chocolate used be
sweet.
2753—WALNUT ICE-CREAM
Finely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a few
tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty minutes in
boiling milk.
2754—PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM
Pound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of
freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of milk.
Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
2755—PRALINED ICE-CREAM
Pound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almond _pralin_, and add
thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured custard.
2756—TEA ICE-CREAM
Add one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of boiled milk,
and make the preparation in the usual way.
2757—VANILLA ICE-CREAM
When the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla for
twenty minutes.
N.B.—If these various preparations be required more creamy, the
milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also when the
preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one-sixth pint of
whipped cream per quart.
2758—PREPARATIONS FOR FRUIT ICES
The base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32° (saccharom.),
to which a purée of fruit, an essence, or a liqueur is added, which
will give the ice its character. All these preparations require lemon
juice, the quantity of which varies according to the acidity of the
fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest fruits, should
not measure less than the amount that may be extracted from a whole
lemon per quart of the preparation.
Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit ices;
while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined throw the
flavour of the fruit under treatment into remarkable relief.
In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed and
rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the preserved juice of
fruit is used.
All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an addition of
half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the preparation.
2759—THE MAKING OF FRUIT ICE PREPARATIONS
These preparations are made in two ways as follows:—
(1) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it if its
nature admit of it. Dilute the purée with an equal quantity of cold
sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a quantity
subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.
This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should be
tested with saccharom (pèse-sirops). If the instrument marks more than
the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water; if it
mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.
(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar
per lb.; but remember that this proportion may be modified either way,
subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.
Rub the whole through a sieve; and then, to obtain the proper degree of
strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.
2760—LIQUEUR-ICE PREPARATIONS
These preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the cream which
forms the base of the ice a given quantity of the selected liqueur, the
latter being generally added when the preparation is cold.
The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may be
taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur flavour
may be intensified with strong tea for rum ices; with orange-rind for
Curaçao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-stones for Kirsch
ices, etc.
These preparations should always contain some lemon-juice, and their
strength should reach the average degree indicated for fruit ices.
=Various Fruit-Ice Preparations.=
2761—APRICOT ICE
Take one pint of fresh apricot purée, one pint of syrup, and the juice
of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should measure 18° or
19° (saccharometer).
2762—PINE-APPLE ICE
Set to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded skinned
pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a sieve, add the
juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and test the preparation,
which should measure from 18° to 20°.
2763—BANANA ICE
Set one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours in one
pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three lemons, and
rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
2764—CHERRY ICE
Crush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the
whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with
Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon. The
preparation should measure 21°.
2765—LEMON ICE
Set the zests of three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in one
pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two oranges,
and strain the whole. The preparation should measure 22°.
2766—STRAWBERRY ICE
Mix one pint of strawberry purée with one pint of syrup, and add
thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound two lbs.
of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar; add the juice of
oranges and lemons as above; rub the whole through a sieve, and add the
necessary amount of filtered water to bring the preparation to 16°or
18°.
2767—RASPBERRY ICE
Proceed as for No. 2766, and use the same quantities.
2768—RED-CURRANT ICE
Mix one pint of red-currant juice with one pint of syrup. In view of
the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be dispensed with.
The preparation should measure 20°.
2769—TANGERINE ICE
Throw the _zests_ of the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-half
pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; rub it through a sieve, and
finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges and one lemon.
The preparation should measure 21°.
2770—MELON ICE
Mix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup, the juice
of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower
water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture should measure 22°.
2771—ORANGE ICE
Throw the _zests_ of the rinds of four oranges into one quart of
boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; add the juice of four oranges and
one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure 21°.
2772—PEACH ICE
Proceed as for No. 2761, using wall peaches if possible.
2773—PEAR ICE
Peel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of
powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit; and add thereto the
juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a sieve,
and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.
2774—PLUM ICE
Proceed as for No. 2761, bringing the preparation to 20°.
2775—GRAPE ICE
Add to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes the
juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered sugar to
bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a sieve.
2776—VIOLET ICE
Put half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints
of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes; strain the whole
through a sieve; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three
lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
=Various Ices.=
2777—GLACE ALHAMBRA
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ its bottom and sides with vanilla
ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with fresh
strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kümmel, which should
afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.
2778—GLACE CARMEN
Take a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate layers of
raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.
2779—GLACE COMTESSE MARIE
Take a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top. _Clothe_ it
with strawberry ice; fill it with vanilla ice-cream; and, after turning
it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted with a grooved
pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.
2780—GLACE COUCHER DE SOLEIL
Select one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them in a
silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered sugar and one
liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur; cover the timbale and keep
it on ice for half an hour.
Then rub the strawberries through a sieve; and, with their purée, make
a preparation after the directions given under Fruit Ices. Freeze this
preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set, combine with it one
pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the freezer; surround it afresh with
ice if necessary, and keep it thus for thirty-five to forty minutes.
This done, dish the ice preparation with care in pyramid form in
crystal bowls.
N.B.—This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be that of
the western sky during a fine sunset.
2781—GLACE DAME-JEANNE
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with Chantilly cream, combined with _pralined_ orange flowers.
2782—GLACE DORA
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-apple dice
and Bar red-currant jam.
2783—GLACE ÉTOILE DU BERGER
Take a star-shaped mould, or a _Madeleine-mould_ with a star on its
bottom. _Clothe_ it with raspberry ice, and fill it with Bénédictine
flavoured _Mousse_.
Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of white
spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the ice into
relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the points of the
star.
2784—GLACE FLEURETTE
Take a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-apple ice,
laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it out decorate
with lemon ice.
2785—GLACE FRANCILLON
Take a square mould; _clothe_ it with coffee ice, and fill it with
liqueur-brandy ice.
2786—FROMAGE GLACÉ
These ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two
differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the mould.
2787—GLACE DES GOURMETS
Take a “bombe” mould. _Clothe_ it with _pralined_, vanilla-ice cream.
Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with rum, and
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is turned out, roll it
in _pralined_ splintered almonds.
2788—MOULDED ICES
These ices are made in large or small moulds.
The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged covers,
and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which are generally
served at evening parties, or are used to garnish larger ices, are made
in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit, birds, leaf-sprays, etc.
Any ice preparation may be used for these ices; but, as a rule, the
preparation should have something in keeping with the design of the
mould used.
Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served. They may
also be turned out in advance and kept in the refrigerator.
2789—GLACE DES ILES
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with pine-apple ice.
2790—MADELEINE GLACÉE
Take a _Madeleine-mould_. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream, combined with
half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit macerated in Kirsch.
2791—MANDARINES GLACÉES
Cut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in suchwise as to
remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached, and two leaves
adhering thereto.
With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice, after the
directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the tangerines with
this ice; cover them with the roundels removed at the start; and, with
a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with water, and place them in
a refrigerator.
As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on a napkin.
2792—MANDARINES GLACÉES AUX PERLES DES ALPES
Empty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with tangerine
_mousse_, with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been mixed. Cover them,
and frost them as directed above.
2793—GLACE MARIE-THÉRÈSE
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with chocolate ice, and fill it
with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.
2794—MERINGUES GLACÉES
Garnish some _meringue_ shells with some kind of spoon-moulded ice, and
set them on a napkin.
Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together in twos.
2795—GLACE PLOMBIÈRE
Take a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream combined with
candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch; spreading the preparation in
alternate layers with apricot jam.
COUPES.
We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with
differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly cream
or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should be of crystal.
2796—COUPES D’ANTIGNY
Three-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing
this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and
strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of this
cream are the “Fleurette Normande,” and that which in the South of
France is called “Crème Niçoise,” and which comes from Alpine pastures.
Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured
syrup; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.
2797—COUPES CLO-CLO
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream, combined
with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in Maraschino. Set a
candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and surround it by means of
a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly cream, containing strawberry
purée.
2798—COUPES DAME BLANCHE
Three-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon the ice in
each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured
syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with Bar red-currant jam.
Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice, laid by means of a
piping-bag.
2799—COUPES DENISE
Garnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter with sweets
containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with Chantilly cream laid on
by means of the spoon.
2800—COUPES EDNA MAY
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the
latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the latter with a cone
of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a fresh raspberry purée.
2801—COUPES ELIZABETH
These coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with very
cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch- and
cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with Chantilly
cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and sprinkled with powdered
spices in which cinnamon should predominate.
2802—COUPES EMMA CALVE
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with _pralined_ vanilla ice-cream. Upon
the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries, and cover the
latter with raspberry purée.
2803—COUPES EUGENIE
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with broken candied
chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream and upon the latter
sprinkle some crystallised violets.
2804—COUPES A LA FAVORITE
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch-Maraschino-flavoured
ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a thread of
pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly cream combined
with strawberry purée.
2805—COUPES GERMAINE
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute over
it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the cherries with
a dry purée of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble vermicelli, and
border the bowls with Chantilly cream.
2806—COUPES GRESSAC
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the
latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated with Kirsch.
Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached half-peach, the hollow
of which should be garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the
peaches with a border of Chantilly cream.
2807—COUPES JACQUES
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with strawberry
ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a tablespoonful of a
_macédoine_ of fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
2808—COUPES A LA MALMAISON
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled Muscadel
grapes. Veil with spun sugar.
2809—COUPES A LA MEXICAINE
Garnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple cut into
very small dice.
2810—COUPES MIREILLE
Garnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with
red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a nectarine
poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which should be
replaced by Bar white-currant jam.
Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun sugar.
2811—COUPES PETIT DUC
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a poached
half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches
with a thread of lemon ice.
2812—COUPES RÊVE DE BÉBÉ
Garnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with raspberry ice.
Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated in
orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the
latter with crystallised violets.
2813—COUPES MADAME SANS-GÊNE
Garnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of vanilla
ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover the latter, by
means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.
2814—COUPES TUTTI-FRUTTI
Sprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits cut into
dice; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and lemon ices,
spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.
2815—COUPES VENUS
Half-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.
In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in
vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.
Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.
2816—LIGHT ICES
These ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are moulded
and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.
To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the best; and,
since their preparation requires no special utensils, they may be
served everywhere: such are the “Iced Biscuits,” the “Bombes,” the
“Mousses,” the “Parfaits,” the “Puddings,” and the “Iced Soufflés.”
These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another, and their
names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of fancy.
2817—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS
The old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English custard,
prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one pint of milk.
When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a basin,
left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon ice, and
finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded at this
stage; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped cream to it;
which operation renders the recipe more like that of a Bombe, which, in
its turn, resembles that of the preparation for _Mousses_.
=Iced Biscuits.=
2818—PREPARATION FOR ICED BISCUITS
Whisk in a copper basin, in a _bain-marie_, twelve egg-yolks and
one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches
the _ribbon_-stage.
Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite cold.
Then, add eight oz. of Italian _meringue_ and one pint of whisked cream.
2819—THE MOULDING OF ICED BISCUITS
These biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases, fitted
with lids, top and bottom.
Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a different
flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the mould.
For example, one of the covers may be garnished with strawberry, and
the other with violet preparation, while the central portion may hold
a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen them for three
hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned them out, these
bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on the cut sides of
which the differently coloured layers are distinctly marked. Place
these rectangles in special paper cases; decorate them on top, if the
directions admit of it, and place them in a refrigerator until about to
serve.
Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits, which
are then named after them; _e.g._: from Bombe Odessa, Odessa Iced
Biscuits may be prepared.
=Various Iced Biscuits.=
2820—ICED BISCUIT BÉNÉDICTINE
Mould the base with strawberry ice, the middle with Bénédictine ice,
and the top with violet ice. Freeze and cut up as directed.
2821—ICED BISCUIT MARQUISE
Mould with Kirsch and strawberry ices, alternated twice.
2822—ICED BISCUIT MONT-BLANC
Mould the base with a rum-flavoured preparation, the middle with a
chestnut preparation, and the top with a vanilla-flavoured preparation.
2823—ICED BISCUIT NAPOLITAINE
Mould the base with a vanilla-flavoured preparation, the middle with
strawberry ice, and the top with a preparation of _pralined_ biscuit.
2824—ICED BISCUIT PRINCESSE
Mould and leave to set a biscuit-_pralined_ preparation. After having
cut up the moulding, surround it with splintered and _pralined_ almonds.
Decorate the pieces with vanilla ice-cream and tangerine ice.
2825—ICED BISCUIT SIGURD
Mould the base with strawberry and the top with pistachio biscuit
preparation. When the biscuit is frozen, cut it into rectangular
slices, and sandwich each slice between two sugar wafers.
2826—BOMBES (Generic Recipe)
Originally, Bombes were made from an ordinary ice preparation, in
spherical moulds; hence their name, which is once more justified by
their arrangement, consisting as it used to do of superposed and
concentric layers, the outermost of which was very thin. Nowadays,
Bombes are more often moulded in the shape of shells, but the
preparation from which they are made is much more delicate than it was
formerly.
2827—PREPARATION FOR BOMBES
Gradually mix thirty-two egg-yolks with one quart of syrup at 28°. Put
the whole on a very moderate fire, whisking it as for a _Génoise_, and,
when the preparation is firm enough and taken off the fire, continue
whisking it over ice until it is quite cold. Then add the selected
flavour, and one and one-third quarts of stiffly-whipped cream.
2828—THE MOULDING OF BOMBES
First _clothe_ the bottom and sides of a mould with the ice preparation
denoted by the name of the Bombe. This coat, which should vary in
thickness in accordance with the size of the mould, should be somewhat
thin, and made from an ordinary ice preparation, which is suited better
than any other kind to this class of dish.
The middle is then filled with a Bombe preparation, flavoured as
directed, or with a _Mousse_ preparation. The whole is then covered
with a round piece of white paper, and the mould is hermetically sealed
with its cover, set to freeze, and left for two or three hours in the
ice.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it with cold
water; dip it quickly in tepid water; dry it with a towel, and overturn
the mould on a napkin or on a block of ice.
=Various Bombes.=
2829—BOMBE ABOUKIR
Having _clothed_ the mould with pistachio ice, fill it with a
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation, combined with chopped pistachios.
2830—BOMBE AFRICAINE
_Clothe_ the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with an apricot
Bombe-preparation.
2831—BOMBE ABRICOTINE
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-flavoured
Bombe-preparation, laid in alternate layers with stewed apricots.
2832—BOMBE AÏDA
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a
Kirsch-flavoured Bombe-preparation.
2833—BOMBE ALMERIA
_Clothe_ the mould with Anisette ice, and fill it with a pomegranate
Bombe-preparation.
2834—BOMBE ALHAMBRA
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and garnish it with a
strawberry Bombe-preparation. After turning it out surround the Bombe
with a crown of fine strawberries macerated in Kirsch.
2835—BOMBE AMÉRICAINE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a tangerine
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with pistachio
ice.
2836—BOMBE ANDALOUSE
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2837—BOMBE BATAVIA
_Clothe_ the mould with a pine-apple ice and fill it up with a
strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with candied ginger cut into
dice.
2838—BOMBE BOURDALOUE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with an
Anisette Bombe-preparation.
After turning out decorate the Bombe with crystallised violets.
2839—BOMBE BRÉSILIENNE
_Clothe_ the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a vanilla and
rum Bombe-preparation combined with pine-apple dice.
2840—BOMBE CAMARGO
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2841—BOMBE CARDINAL
_Clothe_ the mould with a red-currant and raspberry ice, and fill it
with a _pralined_ vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2842—BOMBE CEYLAN
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice and fill it with a rum
Bombe-preparation.
2843—BOMBE CHÂTEAUBRIAND
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2844—BOMBE CLARENCE
_Clothe_ the mould with banana ice, and fill it with a violet
Bombe-preparation.
2845—BOMBE COLOMBIA
_Clothe_ the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a pear
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with
half-sugared cherries.
2846—BOMBE COPPÉLIA
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2847—BOMBE CZARINE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with a Kümmel
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate it with crystallised
violets.
2848—BOMBE DAME-BLANCHE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with an almond milk
Bombe-preparation.
2849—BOMBE DANICHEFF
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.
2850—BOMBE DIABLE ROSE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation, combined with half-sugared cherries.
2851—BOMBE DIPLOMATE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
Maraschino Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2852—BOMBE DUCHESSE
_Clothe_ the mould with banana-ice, and fill it with a pear
Bombe-preparation flavoured with Kirsch.
2853—BOMBE FANCHON
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation, containing some coffee-drops.
2854—BOMBE FEDORA
_Clothe_ the mould with orange ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2855—BOMBE FLORENTINE
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2856—BOMBE FORMOSA
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a strawberry
Bombe-preparation, combined with big strawberries.
2857—BOMBE FRANCILLON
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Bombe-preparation
flavoured with liqueur-brandy.
2858—BOMBE FROU-FROU
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a rum
Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2859—BOMBE GRANDE DUCHESSE
_Clothe_ the mould with pear ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation.
2860—BOMBE GISMONDA
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with an Anisette
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar white-currant jam.
2861—BOMBE HAVANAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla and rum
Bombe-preparation.
2862—BOMBE HILDA
_Clothe_ the mould with filbert ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation, combined with filbert _pralin_.
2863—BOMBE HOLLANDAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
2864—BOMBE JAFFA
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with an orange
Bombe-preparation.
2865—BOMBE JAPONAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a tea
_mousse_-preparation.
2866—BOMBE JEANNE D’ARC
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a chocolate
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation.
2867—BOMBE JOSÉPHINE
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.
2868—BOMBE MADELEINE
_Clothe_ the mould with almond ice, and fill it with a vanilla and
Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2869—BOMBE MALTAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with blood-orange ice, and fill it with
tangerine-flavoured Chantilly cream.
2870—BOMBE A LA MARÉCHALE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with alternate
layers of pistachio, orange and vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2871—BOMBE MARGOT
_Clothe_ the mould with almond ice, and fill it with pistachio
Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate with vanilla ice-cream.
2872—BOMBE MARIE LOUISE
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2873—BOMBE MARQUISE
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Champagne
Bombe-preparation.
2874—BOMBE MASCOTTE
_Clothe_ the mould with peach-ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.
2875—BOMBE MATHILDE
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with an apricot
Bombe-preparation.
2876—BOMBE MÉDICIS
_Clothe_ the mould with brandy ice, and fill it with a raspberry
Bombe-preparation.
2877—BOMBE MERCÉDÈS
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation.
2878—BOMBE MIGNON
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with nut
Bombe-preparation.
2879—BOMBE MISS HELYETT
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2880—BOMBE MOGADOR
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.
2881—BOMBE MOLDAVE
_Clothe_ the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
2882—BOMBE MONTMORENCY
_Clothe_ the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a cherry
Bombe-preparation. After turning out, surround it with half-candied
cherries.
2883—BOMBE MOSCOVITE
_Clothe_ the mould with Kümmel ice, and fill it with a bitter-almond
Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2884—BOMBE MOUSSELINE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with strawberry purée.
2885—BOMBE NABAB
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a
liqueur-brandy Bombe-preparation, containing candied fruit.
2886—BOMBE NÉLUSKO
_Clothe_ the mould with filbert _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a
chocolate Bombe-preparation.
2887—BOMBE NERO
Take a dome-mould and _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream with caramel;
fill it with vanilla _Mousse_, combined with small, imitation truffles,
the size of small nuts, made from chocolate.
Turn out the Bombe on a thin cushion of Punch Biscuit, of the same
diameter as the Bombe. Cover the whole with a thin layer of Italian
_meringue_; and, on top, set a small receptacle made of Italian
_meringue_ dried in an almost cold oven. Decorate the sides by means of
a piping-bag with _meringue_, and set the whole in the oven to glaze
quickly.
On taking the Bombe out of the oven, pour some hot rum into the bowl,
and set a light to it when serving.
2888—BOMBE SAINT LAUD
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with alternate
layers of melon Bombe-preparation and Chantilly cream.
2889—BOMBE NESSELRODE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with chestnut purée.
2890—BOMBE ODETTE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation.
2891—BOMBE ODESSA
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a strawberry
Bombe-preparation.
2892—BOMBE ORIENTALE
_Clothe_ the mould with ginger ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.
2893—BOMBE PATRICIENNE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a _pralin_
and chocolate Bombe-preparation.
2894—BOMBE PETIT DUC
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a hazel-nut
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.
2895—BOMBE POMPADOUR
_Clothe_ the mould with asparagus ice, and fill it with a pomegranate
Bombe-preparation.
2896—BOMBE PROPHÈTE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with pine-apple
preparation.
2897—BOMBE RICHELIEU
_Clothe_ the mould with rum ice; fill it with a coffee
Bombe-preparation, and distribute coffee drops upon it after turning.
2898—BOMBE ROSETTE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with
red-currant-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with red-currants.
2899—BOMBE A LA ROYALE
_Clothe_ the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a chocolate
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation.
2900—BOMBE SANTIAGO
_Clothe_ the mould with Brandy ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.
2901—BOMBE SÉLIKA
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
2902—BOMBE SKOBELEFF
_Clothe_ the mould with Vodka ice, and fill it with Kümmel-flavoured
Chantilly cream.
2903—BOMBE STROGOFF
_Clothe_ the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a Champagne
Bombe-preparation.
2904—BOMBE SUCCÊS
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured
Chantilly cream, combined with candied apricots cut into dice.
2905—BOMBE SULTANE
_Clothe_ the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2906—BOMBE SUZANNE
_Clothe_ the mould with pink rum ice, and fill it with vanilla
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.
2907—BOMBE TORTONI
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with coffee
Bombe-preparation, containing coffee seeds.
2908—BOMBE TOSCA
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Maraschino and
fruit Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate the Bombe with
lemon ice.
2909—BOMBE TROCADÉRO
_Clothe_ the mould with orange ice, combined with candied orange-rind,
cut into small dice; and fill with alternate layers of Chantilly
cream and roundels of filbert _Génoise_, cut in graduated sizes, and
saturated with Curaçao syrup. Sprinkle some orange-_zest_ dice on each
roundel of _Génoise_.
2910—BOMBE TUTTI-FRUTTI
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a lemon
Bombe-preparation, combined with various candied fruits, cut into dice.
2911—BOMBE A LA VALENÇAY
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with raspberries.
2912—BOMBE VÉNITIENNE
_Clothe_ the mould half with vanilla and half with strawberry ice and
fill it with a Maraschino and Kirsch Bombe-preparation.
2913—BOMBE VICTORIA
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Plombière ice.
2914—BOMBE ZAMORA
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
=Iced Mousses.=
The composition for _mousses_ is prepared either from English cream or
from syrup. The last method is specially suited to fruit _mousses_.
2915—PREPARATION FOR ICED FRUIT MOUSSES
This is a cold syrup at 35°, to which is added an equal quantity of a
purée of the fruit under treatment, and twice that amount of very stiff
Chantilly cream.
2916—PREPARATION OF ICED MOUSSE WITH CREAM
Make an English cream from one lb. of powdered sugar, sixteen
egg-yolks, and one pint of milk, and leave it to cool.
When it is quite cold, add to it one pint of raw cream, two-thirds oz.
of powdered tragacanth gum, and the flavour which is to characterise
the preparation.
If the _mousse_ be a fruit one, add to it one pint of a purée of fresh
fruit.
Whisk over ice, until the preparation gets very frothy; put it into
moulds, lined with white paper; thoroughly close them, and keep them in
a refrigerator for two or three hours, subject to their size.
2917—VARIOUS ICED MOUSSES
After the same procedure, _mousses_ may be prepared with Anisette,
Coffee, Chocolate, Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, Tea, etc.; Apricots,
Strawberries, Oranges and Tangerines, fresh Walnuts, Peaches, Vanilla,
Violets, etc.
2918—PARFAIT (Generic Recipe)
Mix thirty egg-yolks with one quart of cold syrup at 28°. Put the
mixture on a slow fire, and cook it as for an English cream; strain it,
and whisk it on ice until it is quite cold.
Add three pints of very stiff, whisked cream and one-fifth pint of
brandy or rum, in order to finish it; mould the preparation in Parfait
moulds, and pack them in a freezer for from two to three hours.
N.B.—The term “Parfait,” which, formerly, was applied only to “Parfait
au Café,” has become the common name for un-_clothed_ ices, made
from Bombe-preparations having but one flavour. And this is fairly
logical, seeing that Bombe-preparations, but for a few insignificant
distinctions, are exactly like Parfait-preparation.
It is therefore just as reasonable to make vanilla, chocolate, and
_pralined_ Parfaits, etc., as to make them with coffee.
2919—ICED PUDDINGS
Preparations of this class follow no hard and fast rules, and, in
reality, they are not ices at all. They are nothing else than iced
entremets, the bases of which generally consist of thick English
custard, the same as that which serves in the preparation of Bavarois.
The few following recipes, however, are exceptions to this rule.
2920—PUDDING DE CASTRIES
_Clothe_ a Bombe mould with a thin layer of vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with two Bombe-preparations, spread in somewhat thick, alternate
layers. One of the preparations should be of vanilla, on each thickness
of which a layer of lady’s-finger biscuits, cut into dice and sprinkled
with Anisette, should be spread; and the other preparation should be of
tangerine.
Between the layers, sprinkle a few pinches of grated chocolate, and
fill up the mould with a thickness of vanilla ice-cream.
Thoroughly close the utensil; pack it for about two or three hours.
Turn it out on a folded napkin; sprinkle thereon a few red, crushed
_pralins_; and serve an iced tangerine syrup separately.
2921—MARIE-ROSE PUDDING
Line a Charlotte mould with rolled _gaufrettes_; placing them snugly
one against the other. By means of a piping-bag, fill the _gaufrettes_
with very stiff strawberry ice, and then fill the mould with a vanilla
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation. Keep the mould in the refrigerator for
three hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin. Decorate it on
top with pink and white Chantilly cream. Serve a chocolate ice-cream
separately.
2922—PUDDING MIRAMAR
Garnish an iced, _Madeleine-mould_ with lady’s-finger biscuits,
saturated with Chartreuse, and alternate them with thin slices of fresh
pine-apple, saturated in Kirsch, and pipped sections of tangerine,
skinned raw.
Fill up the mould with a Bombe-preparation of pomegranate juice,
flavoured with Kirsch; close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours,
and turn out the pudding on a napkin when about to serve.
Serve an iced, vanilla syrup separately.
2923—PUDDING SEYMOUR
Cut a _Mousseline_ Brioche into thin slices, and set these to soak in
raw, sweetened and Kirsch-flavoured cream. Peel and finely slice some
peaches, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup; also peel some very
ripe William pears.
Prepare a pink Bombe-preparation, flavoured with Kirsch and _Orgeat_;
and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of the slices
of Brioche and of fruit, with Bar red-currant jam added; and the
Bombe-preparation.
Close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding
on a napkin.
2924—ICED SOUFFLÉES
The preparation differs according as to whether the _Soufflés_ be
prepared with fruit, or with such flavours as Vanilla, Coffee,
Chocolate, etc.
The last named are made with the Iced-_Mousse_ preparation (No. 2916),
which may also serve for the fruit _Soufflés_; but, in the case of the
latter, the following preparation is preferable:—
Whisk the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth, and add to this one
and one-tenth lbs. of sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage. Transfer
the whole to a basin; flavour according to fancy, and add one pint of a
purée of fruit and one pint of very stiffly-whisked cream.
2925—THE MOULDING OF LARGE AND SMALL ICED SOUFFLÉS
Mould the large ones in ordinary _Soufflé_ timbales, which should be
lined with bands of white paper, fixed with butter, and overreaching
the edges of the timbales by one and a half to two inches, that the
preparation, in projecting above the brims of the utensils, may appear
like a _Soufflé_ when the paper is removed.
The small _Soufflés_ are moulded in cases or in small silver
_cassolettes_, which are likewise wrapped in bands of paper, that the
preparation may rise above their brims. As soon as they are moulded,
put the _Soufflés_ in a very cold refrigerator; and when about to serve
them, carefully remove the bands of paper which, once the preparation
has solidified, have served their purpose; and dish the cases or silver
_cassolettes_ on a napkin or on a carved block of ice.
Like the Bombes, and the Iced Biscuits, Iced _Soufflés_ may be
indefinitely varied, owing to the multitudinous combinations to which
they lend themselves.
2926—SORBETS (Sherbets)
Sherbets and their derivative preparations consist of very light
and barely-congealed ices, served after the Entrées. They serve in
freshening the stomach; preparing it to properly receive the roast.
They are at once appetisers and helps to digestion.
2927—PREPARATION FOR SORBETS
Sherbets are made from any liqueur ice preparation at 15°; or they may
be prepared as follows:—For one quart of preparation, take the juice
of two lemons and one orange, half-a-pint of port wine, of Samos wine,
of Sauterne, or other good wine; and add cold syrup at 22°, until the
saccharometer registers 15°.
For liqueur sherbets, allow about one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart
of the preparation; but remember that this is subject to the kind of
liqueur used. For the quantity just prescribed, use syrup at 18° or
19°, which the subsequent addition of liqueur reduces to the proper
degree. Whatever be the kind of liqueur, the latter should only be
added when the Sherbet is completely frozen; that is to say at the last
moment.
Fruit Sorbets are generally prepared from the juices and syrups of
aqueous fruits. Fruit purées are scarcely suited to this mode of
procedure, and they are only resorted to in exceptional cases.
_The Freezing of Sherbets._—Pour the preparation into the turbine or
the freezer, which should have been previously packed, and keep the
utensil on the move. Remove portions of the preparation from the sides
of the receptacle as fast as they adhere thereto, and mix them with
the whole, until the latter is completely congealed; remembering not
to stir at all during the freezing process. When the preparation is
firm enough, mix with it, gently, the quarter of its weight of Italian
_meringue_ or very stiffly whipped cream; and finish by the addition of
the liqueur.
_The Dishing of Sherbets._—Take some of the Sherbet preparation in a
spoon, and set it in Sherbet or Sherry glasses, shaping it to a point.
When the Sherbet is prepared with wine, sprinkle the preparation when
it is in the glasses with a tablespoonful of the selected wine.
The consistence of a Sherbet, of what kind soever, should be such as to
allow of its being drunk.
2928—VARIOUS SORBETS
Having pointed out that Sherbets may be prepared from the juices of
every fruit such as Pine-apple, Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries,
Red-currants, etc., and from every wine and liqueur such as Port, Samos
wine, Marsala, Johannisberg, Rum, Kirsch, Liqueur-Brandy, etc., and
since the procedure is the same in every case, there is no need to
devote a special article to each.
2929—SORBET A LA SICILIENNE
Keep a very green water melon in the refrigerator for three hours.
One hour before serving, open it on top, as directed under “Surprise
Melon,” and withdraw the seeds.
Then, detach the pulp by means of a silver spoon, without withdrawing
it from the fruit; sprinkle it with Maraschino, and put the whole back
into the refrigerator.
Dish on fragmented ice or on a block of the latter, and serve the pulp
before the diners in Sherbet glasses.
2930—GRANITÉS
Granités answer the same purpose as Sherbets, while they may also be
introduced into certain culinary preparations.
The bases of these preparations consist of very thin syrups made from
fruit juices, and not overreaching fourteen degrees (saccharometer).
Granités consist only of iced syrups, and are not combined with any
Italian or other _meringue_.
As in the case of the Sherbets, but more particularly in regard to
these, the operator should remember not to stir the syrup during the
freezing process, lest it turn; and, when it is congealed, it should
form a light, granulated mass.
2931—MARQUISES
Marquises are generally made from strawberries or pine-apple, with
Kirsch. The preparation is that of a Sherbet with Kirsch, registering
17° by the saccharometer. The freezing is done as for Granités; but it
should be carried a little further.
When about to serve, mix the preparation per pint thereof with half
a pint of very stiff Chantilly cream, combined with a strawberry or
pine-apple purée, subject to the designation of the Marquise.
2932—PUNCH A LA ROMAINE
Mix sufficient dry white wine, or dry champagne, with one pint of syrup
at 22°, to reduce the latter to 17°; add the juice of two oranges
and two lemons, a strip of orange and lemon _zest_, and let infusion
proceed for one hour.
Strain the syrup and bring it to 18°.
Freeze in the freezer, until it is somewhat stiff, and mix it with
the quarter of its volume of Italian _meringue_ (prepared from two
egg-whites and three and a half oz. of sugar).
When about to serve, complete with one-fifth pint of Rum, added little
by little.
Serve the preparation in glasses, after the style of the Sherbets.
N.B.—For all Sherbets and Punches, one quart of the finished
preparation should be allowed for every ten people.
2933—SPOOMS
Spoom is a kind of Sherbet prepared from a syrup at 20°. Add to it
twice as much Italian _meringue_ as was added to the Sherbets. Do not
work it too briskly, that it may remain very light and frothy.
Spooms are made from fruit juices; but more often from such wines as
Champagne, Samos, Muscat, Zucco, etc.
Serve it in glasses like the Sherbets.
CHAPTER XXII
DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS
N.B.—The quantities given below are calculated to be sufficient for
fifteen glassfuls.
2934—BAVAROISE
Work eight oz. of powdered sugar with eight egg-yolks in a saucepan,
until the whole becomes white and reaches the _ribbon_ stage. Then add
consecutively: one-fifth pint of capillary syrup, one pint of freshly
made, boiling hot tea, and the same amount of boiling milk; whisking
briskly the while, that the drink may be very frothy. Complete at the
last moment with one-third pint of the liqueur which is to characterise
the Bavaroise, _i.e._, either Kirsch or Rum.
If the Bavaroise be flavoured with vanilla, orange or lemon, let the
flavour infuse in the milk for fifteen minutes beforehand. If it be
flavoured with chocolate, dissolve six oz. of the latter, and add the
milk to it, flavoured with vanilla.
If it be coffee-flavoured, set three oz. of freshly-torrified and
_concassed_ coffee to infuse in the milk or flavour with one pint of
freshly-made coffee.
Bavaroise is served in special glasses, and it must be frothy.
2935—BISCHOFF
Put into a basin one bottleful of Champagne, one Sherry-glassful of
“tilleul” infusion, one orange and one lemon, cut into thin slices, and
enough syrup at 32° to bring the preparation to 18°. Let maceration
proceed in the cool for an hour. This done, strain the whole; freeze
it like a Granité, and finish it with four liqueur-glassfuls of
liqueur-brandy.
Serve in bumpers.
2936—ICED COFFEE
Pour one and a half pints of boiling water, gradually, over ten oz. of
freshly-ground coffee, and strain it gently. Put this coffee into a
bowl with 20 oz. of loaf-sugar, and let the latter dissolve while the
coffee cools. Then add one quart of very cold, boiled milk, in which
half a stick of vanilla should have infused, and one pint of very fresh
cream.
Freeze the whole in a freezer, taking care to keep the preparation
almost liquid, and serve it in very cold cups.
2937—LEMONADE
Dissolve half-lb. of loaf-sugar in one quart of filtered water. Add
the juice and the _zests_ of the rinds of two lemons, and let infusion
proceed in the cool for three hours. Pass the whole through a fine
strainer; add one syphonful of seltzer water, and serve with a thin
roundel of lemon in each glass.
2938—PINEAPPLE WATER
Finely chop one and a half lbs. of fresh or preserved pineapple; put it
into a basin and pour over it one quart of boiling syrup at 20°. Let it
cool, and infuse for two hours.
Strain through a woollen bag; add a piece of ice and sufficient seltzer
water to reduce the liquid to 9°. Keep the preparation in the cool for
a further twenty minutes, and complete it, when about to serve, with
three liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.
2939—CHERRY WATER
Stone two lbs. of very ripe cherries, and rub them through a sieve. Put
the purée into a basin with the stones, crushed in the mortar, and let
the whole macerate for one hour. Then moisten with one pint of filtered
water, and strain the juice through a woollen bag, or muslin folded in
two and stretched.
Add a piece of well-washed ice and six oz. of loaf-sugar, and put the
whole in the cool for twenty minutes. Flavour, when about to serve,
with four liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.
The saccharometer should register 9° when inserted into this
preparation.
2940—RASPBERRY-FLAVOURED, RED-CURRANT WATER
Rub through a sieve, over a basin, twelve oz. of red and white
currants, and four oz. of very ripe raspberries. Add to the
currant-water one pint of filtered water, six oz. of loaf-sugar, and
one piece of washed ice. Keep the whole in the cool for twenty minutes,
and stir it from time to time with a silver spoon, that the sugar may
dissolve.
Degree the same as in No. 2939.
2941—MELONADE
Rub one lb. of just-ripe melon pulp through a sieve. Put it into a
basin and pour over it one pint of boiling syrup at 20°. Let the whole
cool and infuse for two hours, and strain it through muslin or through
a woollen bag. Add a piece of very clean ice and sufficient seltzer
water to reduce the syrup to 9°. Keep the preparation in the cool for
a further twenty minutes, and finish it, when about to serve, with two
tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water.
2942—KALTSCHALE
Peel and slice one-half lb. of peaches and an equal quantity of
pineapple; add four oz. of ripe, melon pulp, cut into dice, and
four oz. of a mixture of raspberries and red and white currants,
cleared of their stalks. Put these fruits in a silver timbale and keep
the latter on ice. Set a little cinnamon to infuse in a half-bottleful
of boiling, white wine; add six oz. of sugar and the _zest_ of one
lemon; and let the whole cool. Then add half a pint of a mixed purée of
strawberries and red-currants to this infusion.
Filter the whole, and complete it by the addition of a bottle of
champagne.
Pour this preparation over the fruit, and serve the timbale very cold.
2943—ORANGEADE
Proceed as for lemonade, but use the juice and _zests_ of orange rinds
instead of those of lemons, and the juice of only half a lemon. Put
very thin slices of orange in the glasses.
2944—PUNCH WITH KIRSCH
Throw a good half oz. of tea into one quart of boiling water, and let
it infuse for ten minutes. Put into a punch or salad-bowl one lb. of
loaf-sugar; strain the infusion of tea over the sugar, and dissolve the
latter; stirring the while with a silver spoon.
Add one and a half pints of Kirsch, set it alight, and serve in glasses.
2945—PUNCH WITH RUM
Make an infusion as above, with the same amount of tea and one quart of
boiling water. Strain it over one lb. of loaf-sugar, in a punch-bowl,
and let the sugar dissolve.
Add a few thin slices of lemon, and one and a half pints of rum, and
set light to it. Serve with a slice of lemon in each glass.
2946—PUNCH MARQUISE
Put into a small, copper saucepan one quart of Sauterne wine, half-lb.
of loaf-sugar, and the _zest_ of the rind of one lemon bound round a
clove. Dissolve the sugar; heat the wine until it becomes covered by
thin white froth, and pour it into a punch-bowl after having withdrawn
the _zest_ and the clove.
Add half a pint of burnt brandy; set it alight and let it burn itself
out.
Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.
2947—ICED PUNCH
Prepare a Marquise Punch as above; when the wine is hot, take it off
the fire; throw in a good half oz. of tea, and let the whole infuse
under cover for ten minutes.
Pass the whole through a fine strainer; add one orange and one lemon,
peeled raw and cut into slices, and some heated rum. Set alight; leave
to cool, and reduce to 15°. Then freeze like a Granité, and serve in
glasses.
2948—HOT WINE
Pour one bottleful of red wine over ten oz. of loaf-sugar, set in a
small, copper basin. Dissolve the sugar. Add one orange _zest_, a bit
of cinnamon and mace, and one clove. Heat the wine until it is covered
by thin froth, and then pass it through a fine strainer.
Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.
2949—HOT WINE WITH ORANGE
Pour half a pint of boiling water over ten oz. of loaf sugar. Add the
_zest_ of one orange and let infusion proceed for fifteen minutes.
Withdraw the _zest_, and mix one bottleful of heated Burgundy wine with
the infusion.
Serve with a roundel of orange in each glass.
2950—WINE A LA FRANÇAISE
Put eight oz. of sugar into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle thereon a few
tablespoonfuls of water, that it may dissolve. Add one bottleful of
excellent Bordeaux wine or red Burgundy, and the half of a lemon cut
into thin slices. Stir the whole well with a silver spoon and serve
with a slice of lemon in each glass.
N.B.—Always remember to free the lemons and oranges used of all pips,
which would lend a bitterness to the drink.
2951—CLARET CUP
Put into a crystal bowl one oz. of loaf-sugar, the rind of one lemon
and three slices of the latter, an equal quantity of orange, one
strip of cucumber peel, one tablespoonful of Angostura Bitter, and a
liqueur-glassful of each of the following liqueurs:—Brandy, Maraschino
and white Curaçao.
Complete with one and a half bottles of red wine and a bottle of Soda.
Cover and let the whole infuse. Strain, add a few pieces of very clean
ice and a few leaves of fresh mint.
CHAPTER XXIII
FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS
2952—PLAIN STEWED FRUIT
Fruit for stewing is used whole, halved or quartered, and cooked or
poached in a syrup, of a flavour in keeping with the fruit.
Dish these preparations in tazzas, bowls or deep dishes; cover them
with their syrup, reduced or not; and, in certain cases, thicken the
latter with arrowroot. They may be served hot or cold; but in any case,
the fruit used should not be too ripe.
2953—MIXED STEWED FRUIT
These preparations generally consist of stewed, fresh fruit of one or
several kinds; combined with fruit purées.
Quince and apple jellies are greatly used, either in coating the
preparations or in bordering them with dice, &c.
With this class of stewed fruits, which are merely a matter of fancy
and taste, candied and preserved fruits are almost always used as
auxiliary constituents.
2954—JAMS
Under this generic title the following preparations are classed:—
(1) Those in which the fruit is treated directly with the sugar:—
(2) Those in which the juice alone, owing to its gelatinous nature,
produces, together with the sugar, consistent jellies.
The amount of sugar used is subject to the nature of the fruit and its
sweetness; but in the case of nearly all tart fruits, the weight of
sugar should equal that of the fruit, or nearly so.
If too much sugar be used, the flavour is impaired; while
crystallisation will follow very shortly afterwards; if too little be
used, the jam has to be overcooked in order to be made sufficiently
consistent, and the flavour is once more impaired by protracted
evaporation; finally if the time allowed for cooking be inadequate,
rapid fermentation will be the result.
In making jam, therefore, the operator should base his measure of
sugar upon the nature of the fruit he intends treating.
2955—THE COOKING, POTTING, AND SEALING OF JAMS
The time allowed for cooking any jam whatsoever can only be
approximately decided, and it is a gross mistake to suppose the case
otherwise, since the matter is wholly dependent upon the intensity of
the fire, and the resulting speed of the evaporation of the vegetable
moisture. Theoretically, a jam is all the better for having been cooked
quickly, seeing that it may thus more easily preserve its colour and
flavour.
For all that, unless great care and attention be exercised, a
whole-fruit jam ought not to be made on a too violent fire, lest it
burn. Conversely, when jellies are in question, wherein the juice alone
of the fruit is treated, the fire should be as intense as possible; in
order that the required degree of consistence, which marks the close of
the operation, may be reached as speedily as possible.
The degree of consistence is the same for all jellies, and may
be ascertained thus: when the steam given off by the preparation
loses its density, and the boiling movement becomes perceptible,
it may be concluded that evaporation has ceased, and that the real
cooking-process, which is very rapid, has begun. At this stage
frequently take the skimmer out of the saucepan.
The jam adhering to it falls off, at first very quickly; then, in a few
minutes, it is seen to accumulate towards the centre of the skimmer and
to fall therefrom slowly at lengthy intervals, in large drops.
This stage, which is indubitably indicative of the cooking being at an
end, is called the “_nappe_” and is equivalent to the _large-thread
stage_ in the cooking of sugar; and, as soon as it is reached the jam
should be taken off the fire. Allow it to cool for seven or eight
minutes, and pour it into pots, which, if of glass, should be gradually
heated, lest they crack.
The following day, set a round piece of white paper saturated with
rectified glycerine, on each pot, and drop these pieces of paper
directly upon the jam. Rectified glycerine will be found preferable by
far to the commonly-used sugared brandy.
Then close the pots with a double sheet of paper, fastened on with
string, and place them somewhere in the dry.
2956—APRICOT JAM
Cut the apricots in two, and use very ripe fruit, grown in the open,
if possible. Break the stones, skin the almonds, and cut them in two.
Allow three-quarters lb. of loaf-sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this
sugar in a preserving pan with one-third pint of water per two lbs.
of sugar, and, when the latter is dissolved, boil for a few minutes,
carefully skimming the while. Add the apricots, set the whole to cook
on a moderate fire, and stir incessantly, especially towards the end,
when the jam is more particularly prone to burn on the bottom of the
saucepan. Take the jam off the fire as soon as it reaches the “_nappe_”
stage, as explained above, and mix the almonds with the jam.
2957—CHERRY JAM
Stone the cherries, and allow one and a half lbs. of loaf-sugar per
two lbs. of the fruit; taking care to have equal weights of sugar and
fruit if the latter be not over sweet. Put the sugar in the preserving
pan; moisten it with water that it may dissolve, and boil it for five
minutes, skimming carefully the while. Add the cherries and a half-pint
of red-currant juice, and cook over a fierce fire until the _“nappe”
stage_ is reached.
_Remarks_:—(1) The addition of red-currant juice is advocated for
this jam, seeing that by ensuring the proper consistence it obviates
prolonged cooking; and, as I have already pointed out, red fruit is
all the better, and preserves a more perfect colour, when it is cooked
rapidly.
(2) When the fruit begins to boil, carefully skim it, otherwise the
scum hardens, and not only spoils the jam but often sets it fermenting.
2958—STRAWBERRY JAM
This is one of the most difficult jams to make. There are several ways
of preparing it, and the one I give strikes me as the quickest and
simplest. Clean the fruit, which should be just ripe. Only wash it when
absolutely necessary, as, for instance, when mould has stuck to it.
Allow twelve oz. of sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this sugar in a
preserving pan, sprinkle it with water that it may dissolve, and cook
it to the _large-ball stage_ (see No. 2344), taking care to skim
thoroughly when boiling begins. Throw the strawberries into the sugar,
and set the preserving pan on the side of the fire for seven or eight
minutes; that is to say, until the moisture of the fruit has dissolved
the sugar to a syrup.
Return the saucepan to a fierce fire, and cook the strawberries for ten
or twelve minutes, remembering to carefully remove the scum that forms.
Then withdraw the strawberries by means of a slice and drain them
in a basin. Continue cooking the syrup rapidly, until the _“nappe”
stage_ shows signs of appearing, then return the strawberries for
five minutes; that is to say, until the _“nappe” stage_ is completely
reached.
Fill the pots, little by little, that the strawberries may be well
distributed in them and not rise in a mass to the top, as often happens
when the receptacles are filled too quickly.
2959—ORANGE MARMALADE
Select some oranges about equal in size, of a good colour, free from
blemishes, and with thick and soft rinds. The latter consideration
is important, seeing that the parboiling operation is effected more
perfectly when the rinds are thick and supple.
Prick them somewhat deeply with a small, pointed stick (in order to
precipitate the cooking process), and throw them into a preserving pan
of boiling water. Boil for thirty minutes; drain the oranges, cool
them, and put them under a running tap for twelve hours, or more if
possible; or soak them in constantly changed, cold water for twenty
hours. The object of this operation is to soften the rinds and extract
their bitterness.
This done, drain the oranges; quarter them, remove their pips and
filaments, and rub them through a coarse sieve.
Take the same weight of sugar as of orange purée. Melt the former in
the preserving pan, and boil it for five or six minutes, skimming
carefully the while. Then add the orange purée, and one-quarter pint of
good apple juice per lb. of the former.
During the first stage of the cooking process, skim with great care,
and during the second stage, stir almost incessantly until the _“nappe”
stage_ is reached.
2960—PLUM JAM
Allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of stoned plums.
Dissolve the sugar; skim, set it to boil for seven or eight minutes,
and proceed for the cooking as directed under apricot jam.
_Remarks_:—(1) It is a mistake to let the plums macerate in the sugar
for some hours previously, for the acid they contain causes them to
blacken, and the colour of the jam is thus spoiled. (2) In order to
have greengage jam of a fine, green colour, do not cook more than from
six to eight lbs. of it at a time, and cook that quantity as quickly as
possible.
2961—RHUBARB JAM
Rhubarb jam is one of the most difficult and tedious to make owing
(1) to the abundant moisture contained by the vegetable; (2) to its
proneness to burn on the bottom of the saucepan, especially towards the
close of the cooking process.
If it be desired very green, select suitable natural rhubarb; if it be
desired pink, only take the central stalks which are bordered with red,
or use forced rhubarb. In any case, it is best not to make more than
five or six lbs. at once.
Suppress the ends of the stalks, cut what remains into pieces; by means
of a small knife, scrape off the adhering skin and cut the stalks
into three-inch lengths. Allow thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of
rhubarb. Dissolve the former, boil it for seven or eight minutes and
then throw the rhubarb into it. Cover the preserving pan and, put it on
the side of the stove for about twelve minutes that the fibres of the
rhubarb may be disaggregated, and at the end of that time become like
vermicelli.
Then set the saucepan upon a fierce fire, and stir constantly until the
preparation reaches the _“nappe” stage_, whereupon the jam is finished.
2962—TOMATO JAM
There are also several ways of making this jam, of which the following
seems the most expeditious:
The first fact that should be grasped is that the amount of pulp that
can be used represents about one-fifth of the tomato, and this itself
depends upon the kind of tomato used, and whether it be just ripe,
nearly so, or very ripe.
In order to obtain one lb. of pulp, therefore, five lbs. of tomatoes
should be used, or thereabouts.
Finely slice the tomatoes, and rub them through a sieve. Put the
juice and the purée into the jam-saucepan, and boil for five minutes,
stirring the while.
This done, pour the whole into a napkin, stretched between the four
legs of an overturned stool, as for straining a jelly; and let it drain
thoroughly.
At the end of the operation, therefore, all that remains on the napkin
is the mere vegetable pulp, freed of all moisture.
Allow the same weight of sugar as of pulp. Put the former into the
jam-saucepan, together with a small glassful of water; let it dissolve,
and cook it to the _small-ball stage_ (see the cooking of sugar);
taking care to skim it well as soon as it begins to boil. A stick of
vanilla may be put with the sugar before boiling it; or the jam may be
flavoured with a good tablespoonful of vanilla sugar when it is taken
off the fire; in any case, the jam ought to be flavoured with vanilla.
When the sugar has reached the _small-ball stage_, add the tomato pulp
to it, and one-fourth pint of red-currant juice per lb. of pulp. Owing
to the fact that tomato pulp of itself has no cohesive properties the
mixing of red-currant juice with it is essential.
Set the preserving pan upon a fierce fire, stirring incessantly the
while, until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached; then let the jam cook for
a few more minutes.
2963—BLACK-CURRANT JELLY
Take some very ripe black-currants: clean them; put them into the
preserving-pan with half a glassful of water per two lbs. of fruit, and
let them boil.
While this preparatory operation is in progress, the skins of the
currants burst, and their juice flows into the pan. At this stage,
transfer the fruit to a sieve lying on a bowl—a much simpler method
than crushing and pressing them in a twisted towel.
Allow as many lbs. of sugar as there are quarts of juice; put
this sugar into the preserving-pan; dissolve it, and cook it to
the _small-ball stage_; thoroughly skimming the while. Add the
black-currant juice, combined per quart with half pint of white-currant
juice.
Move the utensil to the side of the stove for a few minutes, that the
sugar may dissolve, and then cook the jelly on a fierce fire, carefully
skimming the while, until the _“nappe” stage_ is almost reached.
_Remarks_: The object of adding the white-currant jelly is to modify
the blackness of pure black-currant jelly.
2964—QUINCE JELLY
Select very ripe fruit; cut it into slices; peel and pip these, and
throw them into a basin of fresh water.
Then put them into a preserving-pan with three and a half pints of
water per lb. of quinces, and cook them without touching them. This
done, transfer them to a sieve, and let them drain. Return the juice to
the pan, together with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb.; dissolve the
sugar; and set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, meanwhile skimming
with care, until the _“nappe” stage_ is almost reached.
As soon as the jelly is cooked, strain it through a piece of muslin
stretched over a basin; and by this means, a perfectly clear jelly will
be obtained.
2965—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method A)
Take some red and white currants, in the proportion of two-thirds of
the former to one-third of the latter, and combine with them, per
two lbs., three oz. of raspberries. Crush the three products together
in a basin, and then press them in small quantities at a time, in
a strong towel, in order to extract their juice. Put the juice in
the preserving-pan, together with eight oz. of loaf-sugar per pint.
Thoroughly dissolve the sugar, and set the whole to cook over a very
fierce fire; meanwhile skimming carefully—more particularly at first,
until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.
N.B.—The yield of juice from red-currants equals about two-thirds or
three-fourths the weight of the raw fruit.
2966—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method B)
Take the same quantities of white and red currants, and of raspberries,
as above. Carefully clean the fruit; wash it in cold water, and put it
into the preserving-pan, with one wineglassful of water per lb.
Cook the whole gently on the side of the stove for ten or twelve
minutes; transfer the fruit to a sieve, lying on a basin, and let it
drain.
Put the juice into the preserving-pan, with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar
per lb., and proceed with the cooking as before.
2967—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method C)
Take the same quantities as above of white-currants, red-currants,
and raspberries. Remove the currants from their stalks by means of a
fork, and collect them in a basin; clean the raspberries, and allow
twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of the fruit.
Dissolve the sugar in the preserving-pan with a little water and cook
it to the _small-ball stage_; meanwhile skimming carefully.
Throw the currants and the raspberries into it; put the pan on the side
of the fire for seven or eight minutes, that the juice may exude from
the fruit; and then cook on a fierce fire, skimming very carefully the
while, until the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.
2968—WHITE-CURRANT JELLY
This is made from fresh, very ripe white-currants and two oz. of
raspberries per lb. of the latter. Any one of the three methods given
above may be followed in its preparation, although Method C will be
found to yield the clearest jelly.
2969—RED-CURRANT JELLY, PREPARED COLD
Prepare the juice as directed under No. 2965. Add to it one lb. of
icing-sugar per quart, and keep the whole in the cool for two or three
hours, taking care to stir it frequently with a silver spoon in order
to dissolve the sugar. Fill the pots and keep them uncovered for two or
three days.
This done, cover them in the usual way, and set them in the sun for two
or three hours per day for two days.
This jelly is as fragile as it is delicate, and should be kept in the
dry.
2970—ORANGE JELLY
In order to make one quart of orange jelly, take twelve oranges, each
weighing about five oz.; one-third pint of good apple juice, one lb. of
loaf-sugar, and a tablespoonful of grated orange sugar. The latter is
obtained by rubbing the rinds of the oranges with loaf-sugar, and then
grating the sugar so coloured and flavoured with a hard knife.
If the jelly be desired garnished, insert a fair-sized, candied
orange-rind cut into small strips.
_Preparation_:—Thoroughly press the oranges and filter the juice;
prepare the apple juice, and set the sugar to dissolve with a few drops
of water.
Add the orange and apple juice to the sugar, and cook the jelly like
the preceding ones. Leave it to cool for ten minutes; mix with it the
orange sugar and the candied rind, and pour it into pots.
2971—APPLE JELLY
Proceed exactly as for quince jelly, and strain the apple juice without
pressing the fruit. Do not cook the latter over much, lest the juice
becomes mixed with pulp. Nevertheless, this should be very carefully
poured away; for, in spite of the greatest care, there is always a
certain amount of deposit.
Put the juice into the preserving pan, with thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar
and one-third of a stick of vanilla per quart.
Cook, and strain through muslin, as in the case of quince jelly.
2972—TOMATO JELLY (1st Method)
Prepare the tomatoes as directed under No. 2962.
Per lb. of drained juice allow one good pint of apple jelly, twenty oz.
of sugar, and a large vanilla stick.
Put into the preserving-pan the sugar, the apple jelly, and the
vanilla-flavoured tomato juice, and put the utensil on the side of the
fire for five minutes.
This done, set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, until the _“nappe”
stage_ is reached.
2973—TOMATO JELLY (2nd Method)
Take the same amount of juice as in the preceding case.
Use red-currant jelly instead of apple jelly, and prepare the former
from red and white currants in the proportion of one-third of the
former to two-thirds of the latter. Use the same amount of vanilla
as above. Put the latter into the preserving-pan; dissolve it with a
little water; add the vanilla, and cook it to the _small-crack stage_;
remembering to skin carefully at the start.
Add the tomato pulp and the red-currant jelly to the cooked sugar; put
the whole on the side of the stove for a moment in order to reduce the
sugar; and then proceed with the cooking on a very fierce fire until
the _“nappe” stage_ is reached.
MENUS DE DEJEUNERS.
_Concombre mariné aux piments-doux._
_Duchesse au Caviar._
_Œufs frits._
_Pieds de mouton poulette._
_Poulet Bonne femme._
_Pâté de foie gras._
_Pain grillé très chaud._
_Asperges à l’huile._
_Pêche Cardinal._
_Pâtisserie._
_Hors-d’Œuvres._
_Œufs Cocotte._
_Sole grillée Diable._
_Faisan poêlé au Céleri._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Salade Rachel._
_Soufflé au Chocolat._
_Tartelette aux fruits._
_Kilkis. Olives de Lucques._
_Crevettes roses._
_Truite au bleu._
_Agneau de lait Boulangère._
_Terrine de Canard Rouennais._
_Cœurs de Romaine._
_Asperges vertes._
_Mousse à la Fraise._
_Mille-feuilles._
_Hors-d’Œuvre._
_Merlan à l’anglaise._
_Fricassée de poulet à l’ancienne._
_Selle d’Agneau à la Broche._
_Petits pois Française._
_Soufflé au Kirsch._
_Fromage à la Crème._
_Confiture de groseille de Bar-le-Duc._
_Figues nouvelles glacées._
_Olives farcies._
_Omelette aux fonds d’Artichauts._
_Langoustine Ravigote._
_Queue de boeuf en Daube._
_Cardons au parmesan._
_Alouette à la casserole._
_Salade Lorette._
_Fraises et pêches au Maraschino._
_Pâtisserie._
_Fenouil à la Grecque._
_Salade de Salicoque._
_Turbotin au vin rouge._
_Pilau aux ris d’Agneau._
_Caneton nouveau aux petits pois._
_Mousse de jambon à la gelée._
_Salade d’asperges._
_Coupe d’Antigny._
_Fruits._
MENUS DE DEJEUNERS.
_Anguille fumée de Kiel._
_Cerneaux au verjus._
_Œufs brouillées aux truffes._
_Homard Américaine._
_Poulet poêlé Ménagère._
_Selle de Pré-salé._
_Petits pois au laitues._
_Ris Impératrice._
_Sablés Viennois._
_Artichauts à la Grecque._
_Sardines au Currie._
_Truite à la Meunière._
_Pudding de Bécassine aux truffes._
_Selle d’Agneau de lait._
_Haricots verts à l’anglaise, Pommes Anna._
_Soufflé aux Écrevisses à la Florentine._
_Crêpes Suzette._
_Fruits._
_Colchester Natives._
_Œufs frits._
_Merlan sur le plat._
_Noisette d’Agneau Rachel._
_Pommes paille._
_Perdreau à la Broche._
_Salade de céleri aux truffes._
_Bavarois au Chocolat._
_Petits Condés._
_Fruits._
_Cantaloup rafraîchi._
_Matelote de Sole._
_Risotto de Volaille._
_Râble de lièvre à la crème._
_Purée de marrons._
_Aspic de homard._
_Salade de légumes._
_Poire au vin rouge._
_Pâtisserie._
_Anchois de Collioure._
_Tomates marinées._
_Œufs à la Reine._
_Whitebait Diablés._
_Tournedos Béarnaise._
_Pommes soufflées._
_Faisan Casserole._
_Salade d’Endives._
_Pâté de foie gras._
_Charlotte de pommes._
_Crème Chantilly._
_Hors-d’Œuvres._
_Moules à la Marinière._
_Côtelette d’Agneau grillée._
_Purée de pommes de terre._
_Perdreau Périgourdine._
_Salade de Céleri._
_Soufflé au Paprika._
_Mont Blanc aux marrons._
_Pâtisserie Parisienne._
MENU.
_Hors-d’Œuvre._
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Tortue Claire._
_Germiny._
_Consommé Madrilène._
_Truite d’Écosse au Vin du Rhin._
_Mignonnettes de Sole._
_Poularde Soufflé au Paprika Rose._
_Concombres au Velouté._
_Selle d’Agneau Rôtie
ou
Selle de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne._
_Suprêmes d’Écrevisses Moscovite._
_Neige au Clicquot._
_Cailles escortées d’Ortolans._
_Salade de Cœurs de Romaine._
_Jambon de Prague sous la Cendre._
_Soufflé d’Asperges Rothschild._
_Biscuit Glacé à l’Orientale._
_Mille-Feuilles, Petit-Duc._
_Diablotins._
_Pêches, Nectarines et Raisin Muscat._
VINS.
_Sandringham Pale Vino de Pasto._
_Josefhofer Auslese 1900._
_Château-Mouton Rothschild, Grand Vin 1878._
_Pommery et Greno, Vin Nature 1889._
_Bouquet et fils, House of Commons Cuvée 1892._
_Dow’s Port 1887._
_Château-Yquem de Lur-Saluces 1884._
_Grande Fine Champagne._
_Grandes Liqueurs._
_Café Double._
_29th June, 1906._
MENU.
_Hors-d’Œuvre Suédoise._
_Consommé glacé._
_Tortue Claire._
_Suprêmes de Sole au vin du Rhin._
_Selle de Pré-salé aux Laitues à la Grecque._
_Petits Pois à la Bourgeoise._
_Poularde au Paprika Rose._
_Cailles aux Raisins._
_Cœurs de Romaines._
_Asperges Mousselines._
_Écrevisses à la Moscovite._
_Soufflé Surprise._
_Mille-Feuilles, Petit-Duc, Friandises._
_Pêches, Nectarines, Ananas, Muscat._
VINS.
_1897 Eitelsbacher._
_1888 Château-Fourteau._
_1893 Kiedricher Berg Auslese._
_1878 Château-Rauzan Ségala._
_Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin, rose._
_1900 Heidsieck et Cie._
_La Grande Marque de l’Empereur._
_18th June, 1906._
Menu of Dinner served on board the _Amerika_, under the direction
of A. Escoffier, on the occasion of the visit of His Majesty
William II., Emperor of Germany.
MENU.
_Hors d’Œuvre Moscovite._
_Tortue claire._
_Germiny._
_Truite au Chambertin._
_Mignonettes de Sole._
_Whitebait Diablés._
_Cailles à la Turque._
_Baron d’agneau de lait Soubise._
_Petits pois à l’Anglaise._
_Pommes Byron._
_Suprêmes de Volaille Jeannette._
_Nageoires de Tortue à la Maryland._
_Sorbet fleur de Pêcher._
_Caneton de Rouen à l’orange._
_Jambon de Prague sous la cendre._
_Fèves de Marais._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Biscuit glacé praliné._
_Feuillantine._
_Œufs de pluvier en Aspic._
_Diablotins._
_Fraises Chantilly._
_24th May, 1905_
MENU.
_Hors-d’Œuvre._
_Consommé Leopold._
_Bisque d’Écrevisses._
_Turbotin au Volnay._
_Whitebait Diablé._
_Poularde à la Diva._
_Concombres au beurre._
_Selle d’agneau Portugaise._
_Haricots verts à l’Anglaise._
_Faisan Périgourdine._
_Salade d’Endives._
_Pâté de foie gras._
_Biscuit glacé aux marrons._
_Savarin aux fruits._
_Friandises._
_23rd November, 1905._
MENU.
_Frivolités Orientales._
_Cantaloup au Maraschino._
_Figues Fraîches._
_Gelée aux Paillettes dorées._
_Consommé aux Nids d’Hirondelles._
_Velouté au Blé Vert._
_Sterlets du Volga à la Livonienne._
_Nonats de la Méditerranée au Fenouil._
_Chapon fin à la Mode du Couven._
_Mousse de Mai._
_Jeune Venaison à la Châtelaine._
_Petites Mascottes Printanière._
_Sylphides Roses._
=Fleurs de Pêcher.=
_Cailles escortées d’Ortolans Ste. Alliance._
_Cœurs de Romaine aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Asperges de France au Beurre d’Isigny._
_Suprêmes d’Écrevisses au Champagne._
_Belle de Nuit._
_Bénédictines—Mignardises._
_Huîtres Perlières en Surprise._
_Fruits de Serre Chaude._
_Café Turc._
_Vins du Rhin._
_Grands Crus de France._
_Grandes Liqueurs._
_May, 1906_
MENU.
_Caviar frais—Œufs de pluvier._
_Melon._
_Tortue claire._
_Rossolnick._
_Truite au Chambertin._
_Laitances Meunière._
_Poularde Soufflée à la Catalane._
_Morilles à la crème._
_Selle d’Agneau de Galles aux laitues._
_Petits pois à l’Anglaise._
_Pommes Nana._
_Suprême d’Écrevisses Moscovite._
_Punch à la Mandarine._
_Caneton de Rouen à la Rouennaise._
_Cœurs de Romaine._
_Asperges de France._
_Biscuit glacé aux violettes._
_Friandises._
_Barquettes à l’Écossaise._
_Fraises._
_Pêches de Serre._
_12th April, 1905._
MENU.
_Œufs de pluvier._
_Caviar frais._
_Consommé Henri IV._
_Bisque d’Écrevisses._
_Truite au Chambertin._
_Laitances Meunière._
_Filet de poulet au beurre noisette._
_Petits pois à l’Anglaise._
_Selle de jeune Chevreuil aux cerises._
_Terrine de Cailles à la Richelieu._
_Punch glacé._
_Caneton de Rouen au sang._
_Salade Royale._
_Asperges Sauce Mousseline._
_Soufflé au Parmesan à la Florentine._
_Bombe Algésiras._
_Biscuit Génoise._
_Fraises Chantilly._
_11th May, 1905._
MENU.
_Truite Froide Amiral Caillard._
_Filet de Sole à la Masséna._
_Mayonnaise de Homard._
_Baron de Bœuf d’Écosse._
_Bœuf pressé Parlement._
_Jambon d’York à la Gelée._
_Chaud-froid de Caille à la Loubet._
_Poularde Édouard VII._
_Côtelette d’Agneau Maintenon._
_Salade à la Parisienne._
_Cœur de Laitue._
_Macédoine de Fruits au Champagne._
_Meringue Chantilly._
_Pêches Cardinal._
_Pâtisserie Française._
_Soufflé Glacé Fraternel._
_Dessert._
_Café._
Westminster Hall, _12th August, 1905._
Menu of the Luncheon offered by the Members of both Houses of
Parliament, to Admiral Caillard and his Officers, on the occasion
of the visit of the French Fleet to Portsmouth in August, 1905.
MENU.
_Caviar Blinis._
_Royal Natives._
_Velouté aux petits pois frais._
_Filets de Sole Marie Stuart._
_Barquettes de Laitances Florentine._
_Suprême de poulet au beurre noisette._
_Cœurs d’Artichauts au velouté._
_Selle de Chevreuil Grand Veneur._
_Mousse d’Écrevisse au Champagne._
_Punch Napolitain._
_Faisan truffé—Brochette d’Ortolans._
_Salade Lorette._
_Asperges vertes._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Biscuit glacé à l’Orientale._
_Mignardises._
_Diablotins._
_Pêches de Montreuil._
_Raisin Muscat._
_5th October, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Melon Cantaloup—Figues fraîches._
_Gelée Madrilène en tasse._
_Tortue claire._
_Truite Régina._
_Mignonnettes de Sole._
_Côtelettes d’agneau de lait Maréchale._
_Petits pois à l’Anglaise._
_Jambon de Prague sous la cendre._
_Crème de Champignons._
_Poularde Suédoise._
_Punch Sicilien._
_Caille au Muscat._
_Brochette d’Ortolans._
_Salade d’Asperges à la Toulousaine._
_Mousseline d’Écrevisses._
_Soufflé Hélène._
_Gâteau Manqué._
_Pêches. Nectarines._
_29th June, 1906._
MENU.
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Tortue claire._
_Crème Marie Louise._
_Truite de Rivière au bleu._
_Côtelettes de Volaille Édouard VII._
_Selle de Chevreuil Grand Veneur._
_Pommes en Croquettes._
_Haricots Verts._
_Cailles escortées d’Ortolans._
_Salade de Cœurs de Romaine._
_Mousse d’Écrevisse Moscovite._
_Pêches Melba._
_Friandises._
_Soufflé au Parmesan._
_26th July, 1906._
MENU.
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Caviar._
_Tortue Claire._
_Consommé froid en gelée._
_Truite au Champagne._
_Côtelettes d’agneau de lait Maréchale._
_Concombres au velouté._
_Jambon de Prague sous la cendre._
_Petits pois à la Française._
_Poularde Néva._
_Poulet Rose Marie._
_Caille au raisin._
_Cœurs de Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Soufflé au Parmesan._
_Pêches et fraises Melba._
_Friandises._
_2nd June, 1905._
MENU.
_Caviar de la Néva—Blinis._
_Royal Natives._
_Tortue claire._
_Stchi à la Russe._
_Suprême de sole au Château Yquem._
_Caille au nid._
_Selle de Chézelles à la Broche._
_Purée de Céleri._
_Bécasse au fumet._
_Salade Lorette._
_Asperges vertes._
_Parfait de foie gras au Clicquot._
_Soufflé Rothschild._
_Biscuit glacé aux perles des Alpes._
_Corbeille de fruits._
_1st November, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Royal Natives._
_Tortue claire._
_Crème d’asperges._
_Saumon au Coulis d’Écrevisse._
_Whitebait diablés._
_Poularde à la Piémontaise._
_Cèpes Rissolés._
_Baron d’agneau de lait._
_Haricots verts nouveaux à l’Anglaise._
_Pommes Noisette._
_Mandarines givrées._
_Bécasse au Chambertin._
_Salade d’Endive au Céleri._
_Jambon sous la cendre._
_Fèves de marais._
_Bombe Néro._
_Savarin au Kirsch._
_Barquette Vendôme._
_Pêches et fraises._
_20th February, 1906._
MENU.
_Caviar—Blinis._
_Tortue claire—Velouté Marie-Louise._
_Turbotin au Chambertin._
_Suprême de poulet aux truffes fraîches._
_Fonds d’artichauts au velouté._
_Selle d’agneau de Galles._
_Haricots verts à l’Anglaise._
_Tomate au gratin._
_Mousse d’Écrevisse._
_Bécassine rosée—Ortolans des Chasseurs._
_Salade Impériale._
_Asperges de France._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Soufflé en surprise._
_Corbeille de fruits._
_21st November, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Royal Natives._
_Consommé Henri IV.—Velouté Rachel._
_Turbotin Newburg._
_Mignonnette de Sole au paprika._
_Timbale de Caille Périgourdine._
_Purée de Céleri._
_Selle d’agneau de Behague._
_Petits pois à l’Anglaise._
_Pommes noisette._
_Suprême de poulet Rose de Mai._
_Neige au Clicquot._
_Perdreau et Grouse à la Broche._
_Cœurs de laitues aux fines herbes._
_Asperges vertes._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Bombe Ste. Alliance._
_Biscuit Mousseline à l’Orange._
_Barquette Vendôme._
_Fruits._
_5th October, 1906._
MENU.
_Melon au Porto._
_Tortue claire._
_Velouté aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Filets de Sole au Château Yquem._
_Cassolette d’Écrevisses._
_Caille Judic._
_Baron d’agneau de lait à la Menthe._
_Petits pois Française._
_Poularde Rose Marie._
_Sorbet au Clicquot._
_Caneton de Rouen à la Presse._
_Salade d’Orange._
_Asperges Anglaises._
_Soufflé glacé aux Pêches._
_Pain de Gènes._
_Barquette Vendôme._
_Corbeille de Fruits._
_10th June, 1905_
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Consommé Henri IV._
_Bisque d’Écrevisses._
_Truite saumonée Livonienne._
_Whitebait._
_Timbale de Cailles à la Royale._
_Baron d’agneau de lait Mireille._
_Haricots verts à l’Anglaise._
_Suprême de volaille à l’Ancienne._
_Caneton de Rouen au sang._
_Cœurs de Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Bombe Orientale._
_Biscuit Mousseline._
_Diablotins à la Moelle._
_Fraises au Porto._
_Crème Chantilly._
_20th May, 1906._
MENU.
_Frivolité Moscovite._
_Consommé à la moelle d’esturgeon._
_Velouté aux nids d’hirondelle._
_Sylphide à la crème de piment._
_Cailles pochées aux perles noires._
_Julienne de Céleri._
_Cochon de lait St. Antoine._
_Pommes aigrelettes à la gelée de groseille._
_Bécasse au feu d’Enfer._
_Cœurs de Romaine aux pommes d’amour._
_Asperges de Provence._
_Suprême de foie gras au vin de Moselle._
_Belles de Nuit._
_Diablotins roses._
_Mignardises._
_21st October, 1906._
MENU.
_Caviar—Œufs de pluvier._
_Melon._
_Tortue claire—Velouté Marie Louise._
_Timbale de homard Américaine._
_Poularde Favorite._
_Concombres à la crème._
_Jambon de Prague à la Metternich._
_Petits pois aux laitues braisées._
_Suprême de Caneton à la Viennoise._
_Neige au Clicquot._
_Caille Alexandra._
_Salade Impériale._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Soufflé au Parmesan à la Florentine._
_Biscuit glacé praliné._
_Mille-feuilles au chocolat._
_Fraises Élizabeth—Mignardises._
_15th April, 1905._
MENU.
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Bortsch._
_Velouté Royale._
_Timbale de Sole Newburg._
_Caille Judic._
_Riz à la Grecque._
_Selle d’agneau Portugaise._
_Haricots verts à l’Anglaise._
_Suprême de volaille glacé au Paprika._
_Punch à l’orange._
_Caneton Bigarade._
_Cœur de Laitue aux œufs._
_Asperges Milanaise._
_Soufflé Lérina._
_Bombe Alexandra._
_Biscuit Mousseline._
_Fruits._
_5th June, 1905_
MENU.
_Hors-d’Œuvre à la Russe._
_Tortue claire—Crème de concombre._
_Saumon Véronique._
_Whitebait._
_Caneton de Rouen Vendôme._
_Selle d’agneau de lait._
_Petits pois frais—Pommes nouvelles._
_Caille aux feuilles de vigne._
_Salade._
_Sorbet Pluie d’or._
_Jambon de Prague au Madère._
_Soufflé d’Épinard._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Œufs de pluvier en gelée._
_Omelette Surprise._
_Mousse d’Écrevisse._
_Fraises Chantilly._
_Friandises._
_3rd May, 1905._
MENU.
_Caviar Blinis._
_Tortue claire._
_Velouté Dame Blanche._
_Filet de Sole Alice._
_Caille pochée au Vin du Rhin._
_Nouilles à l’Alsacienne._
_Selle de Chevreuil aux cerises._
_Purée de Marrons._
_Bécassine rôtie._
_Salade._
_Asperges vertes._
_Poire Melba._
_Biscuit Mousseline au chocolat._
_Fruits._
_25th October, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Caviar de Sterlet—Blinis._
_Tortue verte._
_Consommé aux nids d’hirondelle._
_Truite saumonée au Vin du Rhin._
_Barquette de Laitance au Paprika._
_Poularde royale._
_Timbale de Truffes Rossini._
_Selle d’agneau de lait Soubise._
_Petits pois nouveaux à l’Anglaise._
_Pommes Byron._
_Soufflé d’Écrevisse à l’Orientale._
_Mandarines givrées._
_Bécassine à la broche._
_Cœur de Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Pêche au Kirsch._
_Biscuit glacé aux Violettes._
_Mignardises—Marrons vanillés._
_Diablotins—Fraises—Raisins._
MENU.
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Tortue claire._
_Consommé froid en gelée._
_Mousseline de Sole aux Écrevisses Américaine._
_Filet de poulet au beurre noisette._
_Concombre au velouté._
_Jambon de Prague sous la cendre._
_Maïs à la crème._
_Terrine de Canard Rouennaise._
_Caille aux raisins._
_Salade de Cœur de Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Soufflé au Parmesan._
_Pêche et fraises Melba._
_Friandises._
_4th June, 1905._
MENU.
_Caviar—Melon._
_Consommé Alexandra—Velouté Royale._
_Saumoneau poché au Vin du Rhin._
_Mignonnette de Sole au Paprika._
_Poularde soufflée Alfred de Rothschild._
_Baron d’agneau de lait persillé._
_Petits Pois nouveaux à la Française._
_Mousseline d’Écrevisses au Champagne._
_Punch à la Romaine._
_Caneton de Rouen à la Rouennaise._
_Cœur de Laitue aux œufs._
_Asperges de France._
_Pêche Hilda._
_Gâteau Marie Brizard._
_Barquette de Laitance Florentine._
_5th May, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvres._
_Consommé froid Napolitaine._
_Rossolnick._
_Truite Suzanne._
_Baron d’agneau de lait._
_Courgettes au gratin._
_Petits Pois à la Paysanne._
_Poularde Rose-Marie._
_Caille aux Raisins._
_Cœur de Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Soufflé au Parmesan._
_Pêche Melba._
_Friandises._
_4th June, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre._
_Consommé Rossini._
_Velouté d’Écrevisses._
_Truite froide à la Norvégienne._
_Mignonnettes de Sole Murat._
_Côtelette d’agneau de lait Maréchale._
_Concombres à la Crème._
_Jambon de Prague sous la cendre._
_Soufflé d’Épinard._
_Caneton Vendôme._
_Poussin en Casserole._
_Cœurs de Romaine aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Asperges Mousseline._
_Fraises glacées à la Vanille._
_Friandises._
_4th June, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre._
_Melon rafraîchi._
_Consommé froid Madrilène._
_Truite Joinville._
_Poularde Édouard VII._
_Artichauts farcis._
_Selle de Chevreuil à la Crème à la Normande._
_Caille en cocotte aux raisins._
_Cœurs de Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Biscuit glacé._
_Pêches et fraises à la Cardinal._
_Gâteau Bibesco._
_Friandises._
_19th May, 1905._
MENU.
_Caviar frais—Melon Cantaloup._
_Potage Béarnaise._
_Consommé aux nids d’hirondelle._
_Filet de truite au Chambertin._
_Poularde aux Perles du Périgord._
_Nouilles au beurre noisette._
_Mignonnette d’agneau Clarence._
_Petits pois à la Française._
_Suprême d’Écrevisse._
_Neige au Champagne._
_Caille escortées d’Ortolans._
_Cœur de laitue._
_Asperges Crème d’Isigny._
_Pêche Alexandra._
_Parfait aux trois couleurs._
_Mignardises._
Carlton Hotel, _6th July, 1903._
Menu served on the occasion of the visit of the President of the
French Republic to London.
MENU.
_Melon Cantaloup à la fine Champagne._
_Caviar._
_Poule au pot Henri IV._
_Turbotin Véronique._
_Selle de Chevreuil à la Crème._
_Bananes au beurre._
_Pommes Duchesse._
_Poularde Vendôme._
_Salade de laitue._
_Asperges de Paris._
_Fraises à la Ritz._
_Friandises._
_21st May, 1905._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Tortue claire—Okra._
_Truite au Vin de la Moselle._
_Mignonnette de Sole._
_Poularde Diva._
_Concombres au velouté._
_Selle d’agneau Portugaise._
_Petits Pois aux laitues._
_Terrine de Caille à la Richelieu._
_Punch Rose._
_Caneton de Rouen à la Rouennaise._
_Cœur de Romaine._
_Asperges Vertes._
_Bombe Pralinée._
_Mille-Feuilles._
_Barquette Vendôme._
_Fruits._
_10th May, 1905._
MENU.
_Melon._
_Consommé Messaline._
_Sole Toulousaine._
_Suprême de Volaille aux fonds d’Artichauts._
_Noisettes d’Agneau Fines Herbes._
_Petits Pois à l’Anglaise._
_Pommes Parisienne._
_Mousse de Jambon Moscovite._
_Grouse à la Broche._
_Caille aux feuilles de Vigne._
_Salade._
_Aubergine au gratin._
_Pêches et Framboises rafraîchies._
_Crème Chantilly._
_Friandises._
MENU.
_Caviar._
_Consommé de Volaille à l’Ancienne._
_Germiny._
_Suprême de Sole au Champagne._
_Laitance Meunière._
_Filet de Faisan Périgourdine._
_Purée de Céleri._
_Selle d’Agneau à la Broche._
_Pommes Mireille._
_Haricots verts._
_Bécassine Chasseur._
_Salade Lorette._
_Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise._
_Poire Melba._
_Friandises._
MENU.
_Caviar—Blinis._
_Consommé Henri IV._
_Paupiette de Sole Newburg._
_Filets de Poulet aux Truffes._
_Fonds d’Artichauts à la Crème._
_Selle d’Agneau de Lait à la Grecque._
_Bécassine à la Broche._
_Salade Lorette._
_Asperges vertes._
_Soufflé Rothschild._
_Mandarines Glacées._
_Friandises._
_Barquette de Laitance._
MENU.
_Caviar—Blinis._
_Bortsch._
_Saumon Hollandaise._
_Caille à la Grecque._
_Selle de Chevreuil poivrade._
_Purée de Marrons._
_Croquette Duchesse._
_Mousse de Jambon Alsacienne._
_Poussin Périgourdine._
_Salade._
_Asperges vertes._
_Biscuit aux Violettes._
_Friandises._
_Fraises Wilhelmina._
_Fruits au Cap._
MENU DE NOEL, 1906.
_Frivolités._
_Caviar frais._
_Blinis de Sarrasin._
_Oursins de la Méditerranée._
_Consommé aux nids d’Hirondelle._
_Velouté Dame Blanche._
_Sterlet du Volga à la Moscovite._
_Barquette de Laitance à la Vénitienne._
_Chapon fin aux Perles du Périgord._
_Cardon épineux à la Toulousaine._
_Selle de Chevreuil aux Cerises._
_Sylphide d’Ortolan Reine Alexandra._
_Suprême d’Écrevisses au Champagne._
_Mandarines Givrées._
_Terrine de Caille sous la Cendre aux Raisins._
_Bécassine rosée au feu de sarments._
_Salade Isabelle._
_Asperges de France._
_Délices de Foie gras._
_Soufflé de Grenade à l’Orientale._
_Biscuit glacé aux Violettes._
_Mignardises._
_Fruits de Serre chaude._
_Grandes Liqueurs._
_Fine Champagne 1830._
BON VOYAGE.
MENU.
_Caviar frais—Blinis._
_Royal Natives._
_Tortue Claire._
_Rossolnick._
_Suprême de Sole Marie Stuart._
_Barquette de Laitance Meunière._
_Filet de Poulet au Beurre Noisette._
_Cœur d’artichaut aux Truffes._
_Selle de Veau Braisée._
_Purée de Châtaignes—Pommes Nana._
_Mousse d’Écrevisse au Champagne._
_Punch Sicilien._
_Bécassine à la Broche._
_Salade Lorette._
_Asperges Vertes._
_Pâté de Foie Gras._
_Biscuit Glacé aux Violettes._
_Mille-Feuilles._
_Diablotins._
_Corbeille de Fruits._
VINS.
_Berncastler Doctor, 1893._
_Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin, 1892._
_Château Mouton-Rothschild._
_Grand Vin Mise du Château, 1878._
_Grandes Liqueurs—Café._
Carlton Hotel and Restaurant,
London, _19th October, 1905._
NEW YEAR’S EVE DINNER.
MENU.
_Caviar de Sterlet._
_Royal Natives._
_Tortue claire._
_Velouté Régina._
_Suprême de Sole Clarence._
_Poularde Alexandra._
_Morilles des Alpes._
_Mignonnette d’agneau à l’Écossaise._
_Pommes Parisienne._
_Crème de haricots verts._
_Soufflé d’Écrevisse Moscovite._
_Mandarines givrées._
_Caille aux truffes._
_Salade d’Endive et Céleri._
_Asperges de France._
_Parfait de Foie gras._
_Plum pudding à la fine Champagne._
_Mousse glacée Aurore 1906._
_Friandises._
_Fruits._
_31st December, 1905._
CHRISTMAS DINNER.
MENU.
_Crêpe aux œufs de Sterlet._
_Consommé Santa-Maria._
_Velouté aux Paillettes dorées._
_Paupiette de Sole sous la cendre._
_Caille à l’Orientale._
_Jeune Chevreuil aux Cerises._
_Crème de Marrons._
_Suprême de Foie gras au Champagne._
_Neige aux Perles des Alpes._
_Chapon accompagné d’Ortolans Ste. Alliance._
_Salade Nazareth._
_Asperges de France._
_Le plum pudding des Rois Mages._
_L’Étoile au Berger._
_Bénédictines Blancs._
_25th December, 1905._
GARDEN PARTY.
LUNCHEON.
_Melon Cantaloup Glacé._
_Consommé froid Madrilène._
_Consommé de Volaille chaud._
_Truite d’Écosse à la Vénitienne._
_Œuf Glacé au Jambon._
_Noisette d’Agneau à l’Estragon._
_Petits pois Bonne Femme._
_Poulets nouveaux Mireille._
BUFFET FROID.
_Filet de Bœuf Printanière._
_Chaudfroid de Caille à l’Alsacienne._
_Galantine de Volaille aux Truffes._
_Suprême de Caneton aux Cerises._
_Cœurs de Romaine._
_Pêche Melba._
_Glace Napolitaine._
_Biscuit Mousseline._
_Petits-Fours._
_Savarin au Kirsch._
_Panier de Nectarines, Raisin, Fraises._
VINS.
_Brauneberger, 1900._
_Hock Cup._
_Champagne Cup._
_Bouquet fils, extra dry, 1892._
_Perrier Jouet, extra dry, 1898._
_Grande Fine-Champagne._
_Grandes Liqueurs._
_Café Double._
Hampton-on-Thames, _21st July, 1906._
VISITE DU PRÉSIDENT LOUBET.
SOUPER
donné au
CARLTON HOTEL RESTAURANT,
_le 7 Juillet, 1903,_
après la soirée de gala à l’Opéra.
_Consommé en Tasse._
_Filet de sole Alexandra._
_Côtelette d’agneau au beurre noisette._
_Petits pois Anglaise._
_Caille glacée à la Toulousaine._
_Suprême de volaille Jeannette._
_Mousse d’Écrevisses._
_Salade Mignonne._
_Pêches et Fraises Ste. Alliance._
_Friandises._
SUPPER MENU.
_Velouté Écossaise._
_Filet de sole Meunière._
_Côtelette d’Agneau Maréchale._
_Pointes d’Asperges à la Crème._
_Mignonnette de Poulet glacée au Paprika._
_Buffet Froid._
_Salade Lorette._
_Pêche Melba._
_Friandises._
Carlton Hotel, _11th October, 1906._
SUPPER MENU.
_Caviar frais._
_Royal Natives._
_Consommé Madrilène._
_Paupiette de Sole Orientale._
_Côtelette de volaille à la Maréchale._
_Pointes d’asperges._
_Noisette d’agneau Rachel._
_Caille au raisin._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Pêche Alice._
_Friandises._
SUPPER MENU.
_Natives._
_Consommé de Volaille._
_Filet de Sole Américaine._
_Côtelette d’agneau grillée._
_Concombres à la crème._
_Mousse de Jambon au blanc de poulet._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Perdreau Périgourdine._
_Salade Rachel._
_Macédoine de fruit glacée._
_Friandises._
Example of a Fancy SUPPER MENU.
_Caviar de Sterlet._
_Crêpes Moscovite._
_Consommé aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Sylphides à la crème d’Écrevisses._
_Mignonnette de poulet Petit-Duc._
_Velouté Favori._
_Cailles dodues escortées d’Ortolans._
_Nymphes roses—Désirs de Mascotte._
_Pointes d’Asperges à l’huile Vierge._
_Charmes de Vénus voilés à l’Orientale._
_Plaisirs des Dames._
_Étoiles Filantes—Frivolités._
VINS.
_Zeltinger Schlossberg, 1897._
_Bollinger, Extra Dry, 1898._
Carlton Hotel, _Saturday, 6th October, 1906._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Tortue claire._
_Velouté aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Paupiette de sole à l’Ancienne._
_Timbale de Ris de Veau Toulousaine._
_Poularde Rose Marie._
_Selle d’Agneau aux laitues à la Grecque._
_Petits pois à l’Anglaise._
_Punch glacé._
_Caille en cocotte._
_Salade Romaine._
_Asperges d’Argenteuil._
_Terrine de Canard Rouennaise._
_Bombe Néro._
_Friandises._
_Diablotins._
_Fruits._
_13th June, 1906._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Melon Cantaloup._
_Consommé froid Madrilène._
_Tortue claire._
_Truite d’Écosse au Vin du Rhin._
_Mignonnette de Sole._
_Filet de poulet Alexandra._
_Concombres au Paprika._
_Selle de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne._
_Suprême d’Écrevisse au Clicquot._
_Neige aux Perles des Alpes._
_Caille au raisin._
_Salade d’Asperges vertes._
_Aubergine au gratin._
_Biscuit glacé Orientale._
_Marcelin Anisette._
_Diablotins._
_Corbeille de Pêches et Nectarines._
_28th June, 1906._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre._
_Huîtres au raifort._
_Poutargue de Gènes._
_Figues fraîches._
_Cocky Leekie._
_Velouté aux fleurs de courgette._
_Truite au bleu._
_Nonats de la Méditerranée au Fenouil._
_Poularde à l’Aurore._
_Selle de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne._
_Pommes aigrelettes à la gelée de groseille._
_Suprêmes d’Écrevisse au Champagne._
_Pastèque en Sorbet._
_Perdreau aux raisins._
_Salade Créole._
_Cœur d’artichaut Petit-Duc._
_Mousse Favorite._
_Délices au Caramel._
_Pêches Rose Chérie._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre._
_Caviar frais—Crêpe Moscovite._
_Nymphes roses._
_Consommé de faisan au céleri._
_Bisque d’Oursin._
_Mousseline de Lavaret au Vin de Savoie._
_Mignonnette de Sole au poivre noir._
_Salmi de perdreau à l’ancienne mode._
_Selle d’agneau à l’Orientale._
_Aubergine à la Grecque._
_Crème de piment au blanc de poulet._
_Coupe givrée au Suc de grenade._
_Caille de vigne au vert-jus._
_Salade des Capucins._
_Soufflé de pomme à la Chantilly._
_Parfait glacé aux Avelines._
_Mignardises._
_Paillettes Diablées._
_Corbeille de fruits._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre Moscovite._
_Natives._
_Consommé Marie Stuart._
_Chicken Okra._
_Timbale de Sole Orientale._
_Poularde Favorite._
_Concombre au beurre._
_Baron d’agneau de lait._
_Riz à la Grecque._
_Laitues braisées._
_Bécasse au fumet._
_Salade d’asperges et d’artichauts._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Biscuit glacé Alice._
_Mille-feuilles._
_Fruits._
_13th December, 1906._
MENU.
_Hors-d’œuvre à la Russe._
_Caviar frais—Blinis._
_Tortue claire._
_Velouté de volaille au Paprika._
_Paupiette de sole au vin de Moselle._
_Barquette de Laitance Florentine._
_Filet de poulet au beurre noisette._
_Riz pilaw aux Piments verts._
_Selle de Chevreuil Bohémienne._
_Pommes aigrelettes aux Cerises._
_Mousse d’Écrevisse à la Moscovite._
_Sorbet aux Perles des Alpes._
_Suprême de perdreau Souvaroff._
_Ortolans au Clicquot._
_Asperges nouvelles._
_Pâté de foie gras._
_Bombe Alaska._
_Mignardises._
_Paillettes Diablées._
_Poires, Pêches, Raisins Muscat._
_24th September, 1906._
MENU.
_Frivolités Moscovite._
_Consommé à la moelle d’esturgeon._
_Velouté de volaille aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Sylphides à la crème d’Écrevisse._
_Filet de Perdreau au Chambertin._
_Purée de marrons._
_Jambon de Prague au Paprika rose._
_Soufflé aux asperges vertes._
_Caille Hilda._
_Cœurs de Laitues._
_Suprême de foie gras._
_Belles de Nuit._
_Mignardises._
_7th November, 1906._
SUPPER MENU.
_Frivolité._
_Consommé aux Pommes d’Amour._
_Mousseline de volaille aux nids d’hirondelle._
_Suprême d’Écrevisse à la Crème de piment._
_Mignonnette de Poulet Petit-Duc._
_Nymphes roses._
_Désirs de Mascotte._
_Sylphide de jeunes pigeons._
_Ortolans pochés au Clicquot._
_Truffes sous la cendre._
_Délices de foie gras au Vin de Moselle._
_Asperges à l’Huile vierge._
_Charmes de Vénus voilés à l’Orientale._
_Belles de Nuit._
_Huîtres perlières en surprise._
_Les plaisirs de Dame._
_Friandises._
_Treilles de raisin Muscat._
CHRISTMAS DINNER.
_Natives._
_Caviar frais._
_Tortue claire._
_Velouté de Poulet au lait d’Amande._
_Suprême de Sole à la Samaritaine._
_Dindonneau du Périgord._
_Crème de Marrons._
_Noisettes d’agneau à la moelle._
_Pointes d’Asperges au beurre._
_Caille au raisin._
_Salade Nazareth._
_Parfait de foie gras._
_Plum Pudding aux feux follets._
_Mandarines givrées._
_Gâteau des Trois Rois._
_Friandises._
_24th December, 1906._
CHRISTMAS MENU.
_Frivolité._
_Caviar frais—Blinis de Sarrasin._
_Oursins de la Méditerranée._
_Natives au Raifort._
_Les Délices de St. Antoine._
_Tortue Verte._
_Velouté de Poulet aux nids d’hirondelle._
_Sterlet du Volga à la Moscovite._
_Barquette de Laitance à la Vénitienne._
_Chapon fin aux Perles du Périgord._
_Cardon épineux à la Toulousaine._
_Selle de Venaison aux Cerises._
_Crème de marrons._
_Jeune agneau piqué de sauge à la Provençale._
_Sylphides de Roitelets._
_Gelée de Pommes d’Amour aux Écrevisses._
_Fine Champagne 1820._
_Mandarines givrées._
_Cailles sous la cendre aux raisins._
_Bécassines rosées au feu de sarments._
_Salade Isabelle._
_Asperges de France._
_Foie gras poché au Vin de Moselle._
_Bûche de Noël en Surprise._
_Plum Pudding—Mince Pie._
_Mignardises aux violettes._
_Étoile du Berger._
_Fruits de Serre chaude._
_Café Turc._
_Grande Liqueurs._
_Xmas, 1906._
INDEX
INDEX
A.
No. of
Recipe
1652 Abatis aux Navets, 522
Abricots. _See_ Apricots
2422 Acacia flower fritters, 716
493 Agnès Sorel omelet, 186
1768 Aiguillettes de Caneton, à l’Écarlate, 562
1755 Aiguillettes de Rouennais, à la Bigarade, 558
1756 Aiguillettes de Rouennais aux Cerises, 558
1757 Aiguillettes de Rouennais aux Truffes, 558
1722 Ailerons de Dindonneau dorés à la Purée de Marrons, 545
1583 Ailerons of chicken, 507
1703 Ailerons de Poulet à la Carmélite, 537
1704 Ailerons de Poulet Lady Wilmer, 537
121 Aioli sauce, 48
119 Albert sauce, 47
87 Albuféra sauce, 39
27 Allemande sauce, 21
2099 Allumettes, 678
300 Allumettes, Anchovy, 142
2748 Almond ice cream, 790
2385 Almond paste, 703
2386 Almond paste, melting, 704
2480 Almond pudding, 730
2481 Almond pudding, English, 730
2505 Almond pudding souffléd, 735
2521 Almond Soufflé, 739
2338 Almond, various preparations, 687
2522 Almonds, Soufflé with fresh, 739
1931 Alouettes du Père Philippe, 603. _See also_ Mauviettes
2487 American pudding, 732
377 American relishes, 159
58 American sauce, 33
1297 Amourettes à la Tosca, 430
Ananas. _See also_ Pineapple
2670 Ananas à la Ninon, 772
2668 Ananas Georgette, 772
173 Anchovies, fillets of, 70
754 Anchovies, fresh, 261
302 Anchovies, fresh, marinaded, 142
307 Anchovies, Norwegian, 143
303 Anchovies, rolled, 142
300 Anchovy, Allumettes, 142
281 Anchovy butter, 139
301 Anchovy fillets, 142
304 Anchovy medallions, 142
305 Anchovy Paupiettes, 143
306 Anchovy, pimentos with, 143
59 Anchovy sauce, 33
317 Anchovy toast, 145
122 Andalouse sauce, 48
2317 Anges à cheval, 682
174 Anglaise, preparation, 70
2508 Anisette pudding, 736
Apple. _See also_ Pommes
2436 Apple Charlotte, 720
2437 Apple Charlotte, Emile Giret, 720
2588 Apple fritters, 751
2971 Apple jelly, 827
2351 Apple jelly for decorating, 693
2485 Apple pudding, 731
112 Apple sauce, 45
2420 Apricot fritters, 715
2761 Apricot ice, 793
2956 Apricot jam, 821
2463 Apricot omelet, 726
2410 Apricot sauce, 714
2548 Apricots, 743
2549 Apricots à la Bourdaloue, 743
2550 Apricots à la Colbert, 744
2551, 2552 Apricots à la Condé, 744
2553 Apricots à la Cussy, 744
2666 Apricots à la Parisienne, 771
2667 Apricots à la Royale, 771
2557 Apricots à la Sultane, 745
2554 Apricots, gratinés, 744
2555, 2556 Apricots, meringués, 745
2421 Aqueous fruit fritters, 715
359 Ardennes ham, 155
383 Arles sausages, 160
174a Aromatics, 71; used in braisings, 105
2028 Artichauts à la Barigoule, 624
312 Artichauts à la Grecque, 144
2031 Artichauts à la Provençale, 625
2035 Artichauts aux Pointes d’Asperges, 626
2029 Artichauts, Cœurs d’, à la Clamart, 624
2037 Artichauts, Crème d’, 626
696 Artichauts, Crème d’, au Beurre noisette, 244
2033 Artichauts, farcis, 625
2034 Artichauts, Fonds d’, à la Florentine, 626
2037 Artichauts, Purée d’, 626
2032 Artichauts, Quartiers d’, à l’Italienne, 625
2036 Artichauts, sautés, 626
313 Artichauts, small, 144
2030 Artichauts with various sauces, 625
Artichokes, Jerusalem. _See_ Topinambours
2038 Asparagus, 627
2039 Asperges à la Flamande, 627
2041 Asperges à la Milanaise, 627
2042 Asperges à la Polonaise, 628
2040 Asperges au Gratin, 627
697, 698 Asperges, Crème d’, 245
2749 Asperges, ice cream, 791
2045 Asperges, Pointes d’, à la Crème, 628
2044 Asperges, Pointes d’, with butter, 628
2043 Asperges with various sauces, 628
915 Aspic de Filets de Sole, 307
916 Aspic de Filets de Sole, 308
1736 Aspic de Foie gras, 551
954 Aspic de Homard, 322
1706 Aspic de Poulet à la Gauloise, 538
1705 Aspic de Poulet à l’Italienne, 537
975 Aspic de Queues d’Écrevisses à la Moderne, 330
159 Aspic, chicken, 61
162 Aspic, fish, with red wine, 62
161 Aspic, fish with white wine, 61
160 Aspic, game, 61
Aspic or savoury jelly, 59–63
158 Aspic, ordinary, 59
1219 Attereaux de Ris de Veau à la Villeroy, 407
2046 Aubergines à l’Égyptienne, 628
2049 Aubergines à la Provençale, 629
2051 Aubergines à la Turque, 629
2047 Aubergines au Gratin, 629
2048 Aubergines frites, 629
2050 Aubergines soufflées, 629
60 Aurore sauce, 33
61 Aurore lenten, 33
B.
252 Bacon, larding, for roasts, 116
1753 Ballotines de Caneton, 557
1654 Ballotines et Jambonneaux, 523
2763 Banana ice, 793
2561 Bananas à la Bourdaloue, 746
2562 Bananas à la Condé, 746
2564 Bananas à la Norvégienne, 746
2563 Bananas meringuées, 746
2565 Bananas souffléd, 746
2632 Baquet et Panier à la Chantilly, 761
712 Barley, cream of, 248
314 Barquettes, 144
998 Barquettes de Laitances à la Florentine, 337
387 Barquettes, for Hors d’œuvres, 160
987 Bass, 335
231 Batter for fritters, 95
234 Batter for fruit-fritters, oven-glazed, 96
233 Batter for fruit and flower fritters, 96
232 Batter for vegetables, 96
2620 Bavarois à la Religieuse, 758
2615 Bavarois aux Fruits, 757
2617 Bavarois Clermont, 758
2614 Bavarois cream, 757
2622 Bavarois cream, various, 759
2618 Bavarois Diplomate, 758
2623 Bavarois fruit, various, 759
2616 Bavarois, moulding and dishing of, 757
2619 Bavarois My Queen, 758
Bavarois recipes, 757–60
2621 Bavarois rubanné, 758
2934 Bavaroise, 816
2151 Beans, Lima, 649
62 Béarnaise sauce, 33
64 Béarnaise sauce, tomatée, 34
63 Béarnaise sauce with meat glaze, 34
1876 Bécasse à la Favart, 593
1875 Bécasse de Carême, 593
1882 Bécasse froide, 595
1879 Bécasse, Mousses et Mousselines de, 594
1977 Bécasse, roast, 614
1877 Bécasse, Salmis de, 593
1878 Bécasse Souvaroff, 594
1880 Bécasse, Timbale de, Metternich, 594
1881 Bécasse, Timbale de, Nesselrode, 594
1882 Bécassines froides, 595
1935 Bec figues, 604
28 Béchamel sauce, 21
1978 Bécots, roast, 614
Beef. _See also_ Bœuf.
1168 Beef, pressed, 387
1143 Beef, ribs, 378
1144 Beef, ribs, grilled, 378
1947 Beef, ribs, roast, 606
Beef, roasts of, 606–7
1165 Beef, salt, 386
1167 Beef, salt (cold), 387
1141 Beef, sirloin, 377
1949 Beef, sirloin, roast, 607
1144 Beef, sirloin steaks, 378
1152 Beef steak, 382
1169 Beef steak and kidney pudding, 387
1171 Beef steak and oyster pudding, 388
1142 Beef steak, Porterhouse-steak, 378
1170 Beef steak pudding, 388
1152 Beef steak, rumpsteak, 382
1164 Beef steak, stewed, and onions, 386
1166 Beef, suet dumpling, 386
Beef, tongue. _See_ Langue de bœuf
1896 Beetroot, salad, 616
1935 Béguinettes, 604
2300 Beignets soufflés with cheese, 678
2508 Bénédictine pudding, 736
139 Bercy butter, 54
396 Bercy eggs, 165
65 Bercy sauce, 34
1986 Betterave, Salade de, 616
2301 Beurrecks à la Turque, 679
31 Bigarrade sauce, 24
2935 Bischoff, 816
2720 Biscuit à la Reine, 782
2482 Biscuit pudding, 730
Biscuits, iced, 801–2
2820 Biscuits Bénédictine, 801
2821 Biscuits Marquise, 801
2822 Biscuits Mont Blanc, 801
2819 Biscuits, moulding of, 801
2823 Biscuits, Napolitaine, 801
2818 Biscuits, preparation for, 801
2824 Biscuits Princesse, 802
2825 Biscuits Sigurd, 802
664 Bisque de Crevettes, 234
662 Bisque d’Écrevisses, 233
663 Bisque de Homard, 234
241 Bisques, 100
154 Black butter, 58
1920 Black game, 602
1983 Black game, roast, 615
Blackbirds. _See_ Merles
2963 Black-currant jelly, 825
1720 Blanc de Dindonneau à la Dampierre, 544
1721 Blanc de Dindonneau à la Toulousaine, 545
1623 Blanc de Poulet Elizabeth, 515
273 Blanchings, 129
2624 Blanc-mange, 759
2628 Blanc-mange, English, 760
2625 Blanc-mange, French, 759
2627 Blanc-mange, “rubannés,” 760
2626 Blanc-mange, with fruit and liqueurs, 760
1273 Blanquette de Veau à l’Ancienne, 424
1274 Blanquette de Veau aux Céleris, Cardons, 424
1275 Blanquette de Veau aux Nouilles, 425
326 Blinis preparation, 147
989 Bloaters, 335
1809 Boar, 572
1809 Boar, young, 572
1174 Bœuf, Carbonnades à la Flamande, 389
1173 Bœuf, Daube, à la Provençale, cold, 389
1172 Bœuf, Daube, hot, 388
1175 Bœuf, Émincé de, 390
1176 Bœuf, Émincé de, en Miroton, 390
1043 Bœuf, Filet de, 353
1044 Bœuf, Filet Andalouse, 353
1060 Bœuf, Filet de, au Madère, et aux Champignons, 357
1045 Bœuf, Filet de, Bouquetière, 353
1046 Bœuf, Filet de, Camargo, 354
1076 Bœuf, Filet de, Châteaubriand, 362
1047 Bœuf, Filet de, Châtelaine, 354
1140 Bœuf, Filets de, en Chevreuil, 377
1048 Bœuf, Filet de, Clamart, 355
1049 Bœuf, Filet de, Dauphine, 355
1050 Bœuf, Filet de, Dubarry, 355
1051 Bœuf, Filet de, Duchesse, 355
Bœuf, Filet de, pour Entrées, 362 _et seq._
1052 Bœuf, Filet de, Financière, 355
1075 Bœuf, Filet de, froid, 362
1053 Bœuf, Filet de, Gastronome, 356
1054 Bœuf, Filet de, Godard, 356
1055 Bœuf, Filet de, Hongroise, 356
1056 Bœuf, Filet de, Japonaise, 357
1057 Bœuf, Filet de, Jardinière, 357
1058 Bœuf, Filet de, Lorette, 357
1059 Bœuf, Filet de, Macédoine, 357
1061 Bœuf, Filet de, Moderne, 358
1062 Bœuf, Filet de, Montmorency, 358
1063 Bœuf, Filet de, Nivernaise, 358
1064 Bœuf, Filet de, Orientale, 359
1065 Bœuf, Filet de, Périgourdine, 359
1066 Bœuf, Filet de, Petit-Duc, 359
1067 Bœuf, Filet de, Portugaise, 359
1068 Bœuf, Filet de, Provençale, 359
1069 Bœuf, Filet de, Régence, 360
1070 Bœuf, Filet de, Renaissance, 360
1071 Bœuf, Filet de, Richelieu, 360
1950 Bœuf, Filet de, Roast, 607
1072 Bœuf, Filet de, Saint-Florentin, 361
1073 Bœuf, Filet de, Saint-Germain, 361
1076 Bœuf, Fillet steak, 362
1074 Bœuf, Filet de, Talleyrand, 361
1076 Bœuf, Filet de, Tournedos, 362
1143 Bœuf, Fillet upper, 378
1948 Bœuf, Fillet upper, roast, 606
1177 Bœuf, Goulash de, à la Hongroise, 390
315 Bœuf, Hamburg, 145
1178 Bœuf, Hachis de, à l’Américaine, 391
1179 Bœuf, Hachis de, Parmentier, 391
1175 Bœuf, mince of, 390
1176 Bœuf, mince of, en Miroton, 390
Bœuf, ox tail. _See_ Queue de Bœuf
1146 Bœuf, Pièce de, à la Bourguignonne, 379
1147 Bœuf, Pièce de, à la Cuiller, 379
1148 Bœuf, Pièce de, à la Flamande, 380
1149 Bœuf, Pièce de, à la Mode, chaude, 381
1150 Bœuf, Pièce de, à la Mode, froide, 381
1151 Bœuf, Pièce de, à la Noailles, 382
1145 Bœuf, Pièce de, braisée, 379
Bœuf, Tournedos. _See_ Tournedos
123 Bohemian sauce, 48
383 Bologne Sausages, 160
2870 Bombe à la Maréchale, 806
2899 Bombe à la Royale, 808
2911 Bombe à la Valençay, 809
2829 Bombe Aboukir, 803
2831 Bombe Abricotine, 803
2830 Bombe Africaine, 803
2832 Bombe Aïda, 803
2834 Bombe Alhambra, 803
2833 Bombe Alméria, 803
2835 Bombe Américaine, 803
2836 Bombe Andalouse, 803
2837 Bombe Batavia, 803
2838 Bombe Bourdaloue, 803
2839 Bombe Brésilienne, 803
2840 Bombe Camargo, 804
2841 Bombe Cardinal, 804
2842 Bombe Ceylan, 804
2843 Bombe Châteaubriand, 804
2844 Bombe Clarence, 804
2845 Bombe Colombia, 804
2846 Bombe Coppélia, 804
2847 Bombe Czarine, 804
2848 Bombe Dame Blanche, 804
2849 Bombe Danicheff, 804
2850 Bombe Diable Rose, 804
2851 Bombe Diplomate, 804
2852 Bombe Duchesse, 805
2853 Bombe Fanchon, 805
2854 Bombe Fédora, 805
2855 Bombe Florentine, 805
2856 Bombe Formosa, 805
2857 Bombe Francillon, 805
2858 Bombe Frou-Frou, 805
2860 Bombe Gismonda, 805
2859 Bombe Grande-Duchesse, 805
2861 Bombe Havanaise, 805
2862 Bombe Hilda, 805
2863 Bombe Hollandaise, 805
2864 Bombe Jaffa, 805
2865 Bombe Japonaise, 806
2866 Bombe Jeanne d’Arc, 806
2867 Bombe Joséphine, 806
2868 Bombe Madeleine, 806
2869 Bombe Maltaise, 806
2871 Bombe Margot, 806
2872 Bombe Marie-Louise, 806
2873 Bombe Marquise, 806
2874 Bombe Mascotte, 806
2875 Bombe Mathilde, 806
2876 Bombe Médicis, 806
2877 Bombe Mercédès, 807
2878 Bombe Mignon, 807
2879 Bombe Miss Helyett, 807
2880 Bombe Mogador, 807
2881 Bombe Moldave, 807
2882 Bombe Montmorency, 807
2883 Bombe Moscovite, 807
2884 Bombe Mousseline, 807
2885 Bombe Nabab, 807
2886 Bombe Nélusko, 807
2887 Bombe Néro, 807
2889 Bombe Nesselrode, 808
2891 Bombe Odessa, 808
2890 Bombe Odette, 808
2892 Bombe Orientale, 808
2893 Bombe Patricienne, 808
2894 Bombe Petit-Duc, 808
2895 Bombe Pompadour, 808
2896 Bombe Prophète, 808
2897 Bombe Richelieu, 808
2898 Bombe Rosette, 808
2888 Bombe Saint Laud, 808
2900 Bombe Santiago, 809
2901 Bombe Sélika, 809
2902 Bombe Skobeleff, 809
2903 Bombe Strogoff, 809
2905 Bombe Sultane, 809
2904 Bombe Succês, 809
2906 Bombe Suzanne, 809
2907 Bombe Tortoni, 809
2908 Bombe Tosca, 809
2909 Bombe Trocadéro, 809
2910 Bombe Tutti-frutti, 809
2912 Bombe Vénitienne, 810
2471 Bombe Vésuve, 728
2913 Bombe Victoria, 810
2914 Bombe Zamora, 810
2828 Bombes, moulding of, 802
2827 Bombes, preparation for, 802
2826 Bombes, various, 802
2321 Bones, grilled, 683
Bon Voyage Menu, 842
67 Bonnefoy sauce, 34
2337 Bookmaker sandwiches, 685
32 Bordelaise sauce, 25
67 Bordelaise, white, 34
917 Bordure de Filets de Soles à l’Italienne, 308
2391 Bouchées or small patty crusts, 705
1406 Boudins blancs de Volaille, 461
1405 Boudins blancs ordinaires, 461
1655 Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu, 523
1656 Boudins de Volaille Soubise, 524
1407 Boudins noirs, 461
1408 Boudins noirs à l’Anglaise, 462
1409 Boudins noirs à la Flamande, 462
2543 Bourdaloue, Timbale, 742
1039 Bouillabaisse à la Marseillaise, 350
176 Bouquets garnis, 72
Brains. _See_ Sheep’s brains
Braised meat, the glazing of, 106
275 Braised vegetables, 132
276–79 Braised vegetable, adjuncts to, 132–34
780 Braising of fish, 265
248 Braising of white meats, 110
247 Braisings, ordinary, 104
1027 Brandade de Morue, 345
1028 Brandade de Morue à la Crème, 345
2499 Brazilian pudding, 734
184 Breadcrumbs, 75
190 Bread panada, 78
2489–92 Bread puddings, 733
113 Bread sauce, 45
988 Brill, 335
172 Brine, 68
Brines, 66
Brioche paste. _See under_ Paste
2087 Brionne, 637
2647 Brise du Printemps, 765
2143 Broad beans, 648. _See also_ Fèves
2108 Broccoli, 642
1040 Brochet, Quenelles de, à la Lyonnaise, 350
1249 Brochettes de Foie de Veau, 418
1665 Brochettes de Foies de Volaille, 527
2318 Brochettes d’Huîtres Lucifer, 682
1343 Brochettes de Rognons, 444
34 Brown chaud-froid sauce, 25
8 Brown game stock, 10
19 Brown roux, 16
7 Brown stock, 9
22 Brown sauce, 18
24 Brown sauce, Lenten, 19
Brown sauces, the small, 24–33
9 Brown veal stock, 10
Brussels sprouts. _See_ Choux de Bruxelles
1946 Butcher’s meat, roasts of, 606
150 Butter, à la Maître d’Hôtel, 56
152 Butter, à la Meunière, 57
281 Butter, Anchovy, 139
139 Butter, Bercy, 54,
154 Butter, black, 58
282 Butter, caviare, 139
140a Butter, Châteaubriand, 54
140 Butter, Chivry, 54
175 Butter, clarified, 72
141 Butter, Colbert, 54
147 Butter, crayfish, 56
285 Butter, crayfish, 140
284 Butter, curry, 139
289 Butter, green, 140
143 Butter, green colouring, 55
155 Butter, hazel-nut, 58
290 Butter, horse-radish, 140
149 Butter, lobster, 56
287 Butter, lobster, 140
151 Butter, manied, 56
151a Butter, melted, 57
288 Butter, milt, 140
153 Butter, Montpellier, 57
289 Butter, Montpellier, 140
292 Butter, Paprika, 140
293 Butter, pimento, 141
156 Butter, pistachio, 58
157 Butter, Printanier, 58
121 Butter, Provence, 48
140 Butter, Ravigote, 54
142 Butter, red colouring, 55
286 Butter, red-herring, 140
66 Butter, sauce, 34
146 Butter, shallot, 56
145 Butter, shrimp, 56
283 Butter, shrimp, 139
291 Butter, smoked Salmon, 140
148 Butter, tarragon, 56
2341 Buttering of moulds, 689
Butters (compound), 48–58
280 Butters for Hors-d’œuvres, 139
2340 Butters, various, for sweets, 688
C.
Cabbages. _See also_ Chou
2101 Cabbage à l’Anglaise, 640
2100 Cabbage, braised, 640
2103 Cabbage, sou-fassum Provençal, 641
2102 Cabbage, stuffed, 640
2302 Cabbage, with cheese, 679
2104–6 Cabbages for garnish, 641
2095 Cabbages, kinds, 638
2098 Cabbages, red, à la Flamande, 639
2099 Cabbages, red, marinaded, for Hors-d’œuvres, 640
2096 Cabbages, white, 639
Cabillaud. _See also_ Morue
994 Cabillaud à la Flamande, 336
995 Cabillaud à la Portugaise, 337
990 Cabillaud bouilli, 335
993 Cabillaud Crème Gratin, 336
992 Cabillaud, frit, 336
991 Cabillaud, grillé, 336
1024 Cabillaud, salé, 344
1030 Cabillaud, salé à la Hollandaise, 346
1024a Cabillaud, salé à l’Anglaise, 344
1031 Cabillaud, salé à l’Indienne, 346
2483 Cabinet Pudding, 730
787 Cadgerée of Salmon, 268
1886 Cailles à la Dauphine, 595
1888 Cailles à la Grecque, 596
1892 Cailles à la Normande, 596
1899 Cailles à la Turque, 598
1916 Cailles à la Vendangeuse, 601
1911 Cailles au Château-Yquem, 600
1885 Cailles aux Cerises, 595
1893 Cailles aux Petits Pois à la Romaine, 597
1894 Cailles aux Raisins, 597
1910 Cailles, Cécilia, 600
1901 Cailles, Chaud-Froid de, en Belle-vue, 599
1902 Cailles en Caisses, 599
1884 Cailles en Casserole, 595
1887 Cailles, Figaro, 596
1909 Cailles, Filets de, aux Pommes d’or, 600
1903 Cailles glacées au Granité, 599
1908 Cailles glacées au Romanée, 600
1905 Cailles glacées Carmen, 600
1904 Cailles glacées Cerisette, 599
1906 Cailles glacées Maryland, 600
1907 Cailles glacées Reine Amélie, 600
1902 Cailles in cases, 599
1890 Cailles Judic, 596
1889 Cailles Juliette, 596
1891 Cailles Lucullus, 596
1912 Cailles, Mandarines de, 601
1917 Cailles, Mousses de, 602
1913 Cailles Nillson, 601
1895 Cailles Richelieu, 597
1914 Cailles Richelieu (froides), 601
1896 Cailles, Rizotto de, 597
1973 Cailles, roast, 613
1918 Cailles, Roi de Cailles, 602
1897 Cailles sous la Cendre, 598
1898 Cailles Souvaroff, 598
1900 Cailles, Timbale de, Alexandra, 598
1915 Cailles, Timbale Tzarine, 601
999 Caisses de Laitances à la Nantua, 338
1041 Cakes, fish, 351
1290 Calf’s brains à la Beaumont, 429
1293 Calf’s brains à la Maréchale, 429
1294 Calf’s brains à la Poulette, 430
1295 Calf’s brains à la Villeroy, 430
1288 Calf’s brains and Amourettes, 428
1289 Calf’s brains, cooking of, 428
1296 Calf’s brains, Vol au Vent of, 430
1291 Calf’s brains, with black butter, 429
1292 Calf’s brains, with nut butter, 429
1286 Calf’s feet, 428
2651 Calf’s foot Jelly, 766
1209 Calf’s head, 404
1210 Calf’s head à l’Anglaise, 404
1211 Calf’s head à la Financière, 404
1214 Calf’s head à l’Huile, 405
1212 Calf’s head à la Poulette, 405
1214 Calf’s head à la Vinaigrette, 405
1213 Calf’s head en Tortue, 405
1248 Calf’s liver à l’Anglaise, 418
1250 Calf’s liver à l’Espagnole, 418
1247 Calf’s liver, braised, à la Bourgeoise, 417
1249 Calf’s liver, Brochettes of, 418
1252 Calf’s liver, Pain de, 418
1251 Calf’s liver, sauté, with fine herbs, 418
1287 Calves’ tongues, 428
133 Cambridge sauce, 52
2313 Camembert, Croquettes of, 681
2303 Camembert, frit, 679
2305 Canapés à la Cadogan, 680
2308 Canapés à l’Écossaise, 680
316 Canapés and Toast, 145
2306 Canapés des Gourmets, 680
2307 Canapés Ivanhoe, 680
2304 Canapés or Toasts, 679
1936 Canards sauvages, 604
2350 Candied fruit, 693
1765 Caneton à la Cuiller, 561
1768 Caneton, Aiguillettes de, à l’Écarlate, 562
1749 Caneton aux Olives, 556
1751 Caneton aux Petits Pois, 556
1753 Caneton, Ballotines de, 557
1750 Caneton braisé à l’Orange, 556
1748 Caneton braisé aux Navets, 555
1762 Caneton farci à la Rouennaise, 559
1767 Caneton glacé aux Cerises, 561
1766 Caneton glacé aux Mandarines, 561
1747 Caneton Molière, 555
1745 Caneton Nantais à la Choucroûte, 554
1752 Caneton, Pâté Chaud de, 557
1963 Caneton rôti, 611
1754 Caneton Rouennais, 557
1964 Caneton Rouennais, 611
1761 Caneton Rouennais à la Presse, 559
1755 Caneton Rouennais, Aiguillettes de, à la Bigarade, 558
1756 Caneton Rouennais, Aiguillettes de, aux Cerises, 558
1757 Caneton Rouennais, Aiguillettes aux Truffes, 558
1758 Caneton Rouennais, au Champagne, 558
1760 Caneton Rouennais au Porto, 559
1759 Caneton Rouennais en Chemise, 559
1770 Caneton Rouennais, Mousse de, 562
1769 Caneton Rouennais, Mousse et Mousseline de, 562
1964 Caneton Rouennais rôti, 611
1764 Caneton Rouennais, Soufflé de, 560
1772 Caneton Rouennais, Terrine de, à la Gelée, 562
1763 Caneton, Salmis de, à la Rouennaise, 560
1771 Caneton soufflé froid à l’Orange, 562
1773 Caneton, Timbale de, à la Voisin, 563
1746 Caneton d’Aylesbury poëlé à la Menthe, 555
360 Cantaloup Melon, 155
68 Caper sauce, 35
1659 Capilotade de volaille, 524
1531 Capon with Perles du Périgord, 495
1443 Capons for relevés, 473
375 Capsicum mild, grilled, 158
2197 Capsicum or pimentos, 657
2199 Capsicums for garnishing, 658
1174 Carbonnades à la Flamande, 389
2309 Carcasse de Volaille, 680
69 Cardinal sauce, 35
2052 Cardons, 630
2055 Cardons à la Milanaise, 630
2057 Cardons à la Moelle, 630
2054 Cardons à la Mornay, 630
2053 Cardons au Parmesan, 630
2058 Cardons, Cœurs de, aux fines herbes, 631
2056 Cardons, with various sauces, 630
325 Carolines, various, 147
757 Carp, 261
996 Carp, milt of, 337
997 Carp à la Meunière, 337
998 Carp, Barquettes de, à la Florentine, 337
999 Carp, Caisses à la Nantua, 338
2060 Carottes à la Crème, 631
2061 Carottes à la Vichy, 631
2063 Carottes, Flan aux, 632
2059 Carottes glacées pour Garnitures, 631
630 Carottes, Purée de, 225
2062 Carottes, Purée de, 631
631 Carottes, Purée de, with Tapioca, 226
674 Carottes, Velouté of, 238
2108 Cauliflower, 642. _See also_ Chou-fleur
1363 Carré d’Agneau à la Boulangère, 450
1368 Carré à la Toscane, 451
1361 Carré Beaucaire, 450
1362 Carré en Cocotte à la Bonne-Femme, 450
1364 Carré grillé, 450
1365 Carré Mireille, 451
1366 Carré printanier, 451
1367 Carré Soubise, 451
211 Carrot Royale, 88
1344 Cassoulet, 444
2920 Castries, Pudding de, 811
326 Caviare and blinis, 147
282 Caviare butter, 139
294 Caviare cream, 141
341 Caviare Duchesses, 151
364 Caviare, natives with, 155
318 Caviare toast, 146
327 Céleri à la Bonne-Femme, 148
328 Céleri à la Grecque, 148
700 Céleri, cream of, 245
2064 Céleri for braising, 632
2066 Céleri, Purée de, 632
1987 Céleri salad, 617
114 Céleri sauce, 46
2065 Céleri, various preparations, 632
329 Celeriac, 148
632 Céleri-rave, Purée de, 226
2067 Céleri-rave, 633
1988 Céleri salad, 617
Celery. _See_ Céleri
2606 Célestine omelet, 754
2068 Cèpes à la Bordelaise, 633
2069 Cèpes à la Crème, 633
2070 Cèpes à la Provençale, 633
2071 Cèpes à la Rossini, 633
329a Cèpes, marinaded, 148
Cerises. _See_ Cherries
1290 Cervelle à la Beaumont, 429
1293 Cervelle à la Maréchale, 429
1294 Cervelle à la Poulette, 430
1295 Cervelle à la Villeroy, 430
1291 Cervelle au Beurre noir, 429
1292 Cervelle au Beurre noisette, 429
1296 Cervelle, Vol au Vent de, 430
2072 Champignons à la Crème, 634
2075 Champignons farcis, 634
2076 Champignons, Flan grillé aux, 634
2074 Champignons grillés, 634
2079 Champignons, Purée of, 635
2073 Champignons sautés, 634
2310 Champignons sous Cloche, 680
2077 Champignons, Tartelettes de, grillés, 635
2078 Champignons turned and grooved for garnishing, 635
1531 Chapon fin aux Perles du Périgord, 495
1034 Char, 347
1035 Char, potted, 347
2631 Charlotte à la Chantilly, 761
2629 Charlotte à l’Arlequine, 761
2436 Charlotte, apple, 720
2592 Charlotte, apple, 751
2630 Charlotte Carmen, 761
2437 Charlotte de Pommes Emile Giret, 720
2633 Charlotte Montreuil, 762
2634 Charlotte Opéra, 762
2635 Charlotte Plombière, 762
2636 Charlotte Renaissance, 762
2637 Charlotte Russe, 762
Charlottes, Recipes for, 720–22, 761–63
2438 Charlottes, various, 721
1220 Chartreuse de Ris de Veau, 408
33 Chasseur sauce (Escoffier), 25
140a Châteaubriand butter, 54
71 Châteaubriand sauce, 35
1076 Châteaubriand steak, 362
1692 Chaud-Froid de Poularde à la Gounod, 533
1693 Chaud-Froid de Poularde à la Rossini, 534
1691 Chaud-Froid, Félix Faure, 533
74 Chaud-Froid sauce à l’Aurore, 36
75 Chaud-Froid sauce au Vert-Pré, 36
34 Chaud-Froid sauce, brown, 25
76 Chaud-Froid sauce, lenten, 36
73 Chaud-Froid sauce, ordinary, 36
35 Chaud-Froid sauce, varieties of, 26
72 Chaud-Froid sauce, white, 35
2313 Cheese, Camembert, Croquettes, 681
2303 Cheese, Camembert, fried, 679
2322 Cheese Parmesan, Paillettes au, 683
2324 Cheese pudding au Pain, 683
329b Cherries à l’Allemande, 148
2671 Cherries à la Dubarry, 773
2567 Cherries à la Valéria, 747
2566 Cherries, Jubilee, 747
2672 Cherries with claret, 773
2568 Cherry flawn, meringued, 747
2764 Cherry ice, 793
2957 Cherry jam, 822
77 Cherry sauce (Escoffier), 37
2415 Cherry sauce, 714
2613 Cherry sauce, 757
2526 Cherry soufflé, 739
742 Cherry soup, 256
2939 Cherry water, 817
177 Chervil, 73
701 Chervil, bulbous, cream of, 246
2451 Chestnut Croquettes, 723
2510 Chestnut pudding, souffléd, 737
2172 Chestnuts, 652
2174 Chestnuts, braised and glazed, 653
2175 Chestnuts, Purée of, 653
2173 Chestnuts, stewed, 652
1941 Chevaliers, divers, 604
1982 Chevaliers, divers, rôtis, 615
1808 Chevreuil, Civet de, 571
168 Chevreuil cooked, Marinade for, 67
1801 Chevreuil, Côtelettes de, Conti, 570
1802 Chevreuil, Côtelettes de, Diane, 570
1800 Chevreuil, Noisettes de, 570
1803 Chevreuil, Noisette de, au Genièvre, 570
1804 Chevreuil, Noisettes de, Romanoff, 571
1805 Chevreuil, Noisettes de, Valencia, 571
1806 Chevreuil, Noisettes de, Villeneuve, 571
1807 Chevreuil, Noisettes de, Walkyrie, 571
169 Chevreuil, raw marinade for, 67
1954 Chevreuil, roasts, 608–609
57 Chevreuil sauce, 32
1791 Chevreuil, Selle de, 568
1793 Chevreuil, Selle de, à la Baden-Baden, 568
1797 Chevreuil, Selle de, à la Beaujeu, 569
1796 Chevreuil, Selle de, à la Créole, 569
1795 Chevreuil, Selle de, à la Cumberland, 569
1792 Chevreuil, Selle de, à l’Allemande, 568
1798 Chevreuil, Selle de, au Genièvre, 569
1794 Chevreuil, Selle de, aux Cerises, 569
1799 Chevreuil, Selle de, avec sauces diverses, 570
2500 Chevreuse pudding, 734
Chicken. _See also_ Poulet _and_ Volaille.
1957 Chicken à la Reine, 610
1583 Chicken, Ailerons of, 507
159 Chicken, Aspic, 61
3 Chicken, Consommé, 6
1582 Chicken, Côtelettes, 507
299 Chicken, cream, 141
1664a Chicken, Croquettes and cutlets, 526
1580 Chicken fillets, 507
195 Chicken forcemeat fine, 79
200 Chicken forcemeat for Galantine, 81
193 Chicken forcemeat with panada and butter, 78
194 Chicken forcemeat with panada and cream, 79
1665 Chicken livers, Brochettes of, 527
1666 Chicken livers and kidneys sautés, 527
1660 Chicken pie, 524
1714a Chicken pie, 542
208 Chicken Royale, 87
1713 Chicken salad, 541
1581 Chicken, Suprêmes of, 507
Chicken Turbot. _See_ Turbotin
Chickens, Spring. _See_ Poulet de Grains
Chicks, 521
2089 Chicorée à la Crème, 637
2093 Chicorée à la Flamande, 638
702 Chicorée, cream of, 246
Chicorée, Belgian. _See_ Endive
2094 Chicorée, Brussels, 638
2090 Chicorée, Pain de, 637
2091 Chicorée, Purée de, 637
2092 Chicorée, Soufflé de, 638
2088 Chicory, 637
215 Chiffonade, 89
2217 Chipped potatoes, 661
140 Chivry, butter, 54
37 Chivry, sauce, 37
2752 Chocolate, ice-cream, 791
2407 Chocolate, sauce, 713
185 Chopped onion, 76
64 Choron sauce, 34
Chou. _See also_ Cabbage
2101 Chou à l’Anglaise, 640
2102 Chou farci, 640
2120 Chou marin, 643
2109 Chou-fleur à la Crème, 642
2114 Chou-fleur à la Dubarry, 643
2111 Chou-fleur à la Milanaise, 642
2112 Chou-fleur à la Polonaise, 642
2110 Chou-fleur au Gratin, 642
634 Chou-fleur, Purée de, 226
2114 Chou-fleur, Purée de, 643
1989 Chou-fleur salad, 617
2113 Chou-fleur with various sauces, 642
2107 Chou frisé, 641
2302 Choux au Fromage, 679
2116 Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème, 643
2115 Choux de Bruxelles à l’Anglaise, 643
2118 Choux de Bruxelles au Beurre, 643
633 Choux de Bruxelles, Purée de, 226
2119 Choux de Bruxelles, Purée de, 643
2117 Choux de Bruxelles sautés, 643
2107 Choux de Printemps, 641
2098 Choux rouges à la Flamande, 639
2087 Chow-chow, 637
Christmas dinner, menus for, 842, 847–48
320 City toast, 146
2951 Claret cup, 819
Clarification of Aspic, 60
Clarification of fish Consommé, 6
Clarification of game Consommé, 7
Clarifications, remarks upon, 5
175 Clarified butter, 72
237 Clear soups, 98
Coating with egg and breadcrumb. _See_ Anglaise
1661 Cocks’ combs and kidneys, 525
1662 Cocks’ combs à la Grecque, 525
1664 Cocks’ kidneys, stuffed for cold Entrées, Garnitures, etc., 526
Cod. _See_ Cabillaud
Cod salted. _See_ Cabillaud salé
2058 Cœur de Cardon aux fines herbes, 631
2029 Cœurs d’Artichauts à la Clamart, 624
2751 Coffee ice-cream, 791
2936 Coffee, iced, 816
141 Colbert butter, 54
Cold eggs. _See_ Eggs, cold
2343 Colouring matter, vegetable, 689
Compound butters, 48–58
Compound sauces, the small, 24–47
2122 Concombres à la Crème, 644
330 Concombres farcis, 149
2124, 2125 Concombres farcis, 644
2123 Concombres glacés, 644
676 Concombres, Velouté of, 238
2311 Condés au Fromage, 681
174b Condiments and seasoning, 71
543 Consommé à la Bohémienne, 199
565 Consommé à l’Écossaise, 205
618 Consommé à l’Essence de Cailles, 223
619 Consommé à l’Essence de Céleri, 223
620 Consommé à l’Essence de Morilles, 223
621 Consommé à l’Essence de Truffe, 224
566a Consommé à la Fermière, 205
574 Consommé à l’Indienne, 208
575 Consommé à l’Infante, 208
625 Consommé à la Madrilène, 224
584 Consommé à la Milanaise, 210
589 Consommé à la Moscovite, 212
626 Consommé à la Portugaise, 224
539 Consommé Alexandra, 198
540 Consommé Ambassadrice, 198
541 Consommé Andalouse, 198
622 Consommé au Fumet de Perdreau, 224
553 Consommé aux Cheveux d’Ange, 202
560 Consommé aux Diablotins, 204
591 Consommé aux Nids d’Hirondelles, 212
592 Consommé aux Œufs de Fauvette, 213
623 Consommé aux Paillettes d’Or, 224
624 Consommé aux Piments doux, 224
603 Consommé aux Profiterolles, 216
627 Consommé aux Vins, 224
544 Consommé Boïeldieu, 199
545 Consommé Bouquetière, 199
546 Consommé Bourdaloue, 200
548 Consommé Brunoise, 200
549 Consommé Carmen, 201
550 Consommé Castellane, 201
551 Consommé Célestine, 201
552 Consommé Chartreuse, 202
3 Consommé Chicken, 6
2 Consommé clarified, for clear soups, 5
554 Consommé Colbert, 202
223 Consommé cold, for suppers, 223
555 Consommé Colombine, 202
557 Consommé Cyrano, 203
542 Consommé d’Arenberg, 198
558 Consommé Demidoff, 203
559 Consommé Deslignac, 203
561 Consommé Diplomate, 204
562 Consommé Divette, 204
563 Consommé Doria, 204
594 Consommé D’Orléans, 213
595 Consommé D’Orsay, 213
564 Consommé Douglas, 205
566 Consommé Favorite, 205
4 Consommé, fish, 6
567 Consommé Florentine, 206
5 Consommé, game, 7
568 Consommé Gauloise, 206
569 Consommé George Sand, 206
570 Consommé Germaine, 207
571 Consommé Girondine, 207
572 Consommé Grimaldi, 207
573 Consommé Impériale, 207
576 Consommé Jacqueline, 208
576a Consommé Julienne, 208
577 Consommé Lorette, 209
578 Consommé Macdonald, 209
579 Consommé Marguerite, 209
580 Consommé Marquise, 210
581 Consommé Mercédès, 210
582 Consommé Messaline, 210
583 Consommé Metternich, 210
585 Consommé Mireille, 211
586 Consommé Mirette, 211
587 Consommé Monte Carlo, 211
588 Consommé Montmorency, 212
590 Consommé Nesselrode, 212
593 Consommé Olga, 213
597 Consommé Parisienne, 214
598 Consommé Petite Marmite, 215
600 Consommé Poule au Pot, 215
601 Consommé Printanier, 216
602 Consommé Printanier aux Quenelles, 216
Consommé, quality of a, 3
604 Consommé Rachel, 216
605 Consommé Réjane, 217
606 Consommé Renaissance, 217
607 Consommé Richelieu, 217
608 Consommé Rossini, 218
609 Consommé Rothschild, 218
610 Consommé Saint Hubert, 218
612 Consommé Sévigné, 219
613 Consommé Souveraine, 219
6 Consommé, special, for suppers, 8
244 Consommé, thickened, 102
615 Consommé Tosca, 222
616 Consommé Vert Pré, 222
617 Consommé Villeneuve, 223
Consommé, white, uses of, 4; making of, 2
627 Consommé with wine, 224
2443 Convent pancakes, 722
Coqs de Bruyère. _See also_ Black game
1983 Coqs de Bruyère rôtis, 615
1312 Côtelettes à la Champvallon, 436
1314 Côtelettes à la Maintenon, 436
1315 Côtelettes à la Murillo, 437
1316 Côtelettes à la Provençale, 437
1317 Côtelettes à la Sévigné, 438
1318 Côtelettes à la Suédoise, 438
1371 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait à la Buloz, 452
1377 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait farcies à la Périgueux, 454
1372 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait Maréchale, 452
1373 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait Milanaise, 453
1374 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait Morland, 453
1375 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait Navarraise, 453
1376 Côtelettes d’Agneau de Lait Nelson, 453
Côtelettes de Chevreuil. _See under_ Chevreuil
1857 Côtelettes de Faisan, 588
955 Côtelettes de Homard, Arkangel, 323
1316a Côtelettes de Mouton à la Réforme, 437
Côtelettes de Pigeonneaux. _See under_ Pigeonneaux
788 Côtelettes de Saumon, 269
807 Côtelettes de Saumon, froides, 276
1319 Côtelettes en Belle-Vue, 438
1320 Côtelettes en Chaud-froid, 438
1313 Côtelettes Laura, 436
1582 Côtelettes of chicken, 507
1395 Côtes de Porc frais à la Milanaise, 458
789 Coulibiac de Saumon, 269
670 Coulis à la Reine, 236
666 Coulis à l’Ardennaise, 235
665 Coulis au Chasseur, 234
667 Coulis de Gelinotte à l’Ancienne, 235
665 Coulis de Gibier, 234
666 Coulis de Grives au pain noir, 235
667 Coulis de Grouse, 235
668 Coulis de Lapereau au Currie, 235
669 Coulis de Perdreau à la Mancelle, 236
669 Coulis de Perdreau à la Purée de Marrons, 236
670 Coulis de Volaille, 236
666 Coulis of thrushes, with rye bread, 235
668 Coulis of wild rabbit, with curry, 235
2804 Coupes à la Favorite, 799
2808 Coupes à la Malmaison, 799
2809 Coupes à la Mexicaine, 799
2797 Coupes Clo-clo, 798
2798 Coupes Dame Blanche, 789
2796 Coupes d’Antigny, 797
2799 Coupes Denise, 798
2800 Coupes Edna May, 798
2801 Coupes Elizabeth, 798
2802 Coupes Emma Calvé, 798
2803 Coupes Eugénie, 798
2805 Coupes Germaine, 799
2806 Coupes Gressac, 799
2807 Coupes Jacques, 799
2813 Coupes Madame Sans-Gêne, 800
2810 Coupes Mireille, 799
2811 Coupes Petit Duc, 799
2812 Coupes Rêve de Bébé, 799
2814 Coupes Tutti-Frutti, 800
2815 Coupes Vénus, 800
166 Court-Bouillon, plain, 65
167 Court-Bouillon, special or blanc, 65
165 Court-Bouillon, with red wine, 64
163 Court-Bouillon, with vinegar, 64
164 Court-Bouillon, with white wine, 64
115 Cranberry sauce, 46
Crayfish. _See_ Écrevisses.
294 Cream, caviare, 141
299 Cream, chicken, 141
2399 Cream, frangipan, 710
2423 Cream, fried, 716
296 Cream, game, 141
295 Cream, lobster, 141
2401 Cream, pastry, 710
207 Cream, Royale, 87
79 Cream sauce, 37
297 Cream, smoked salmon, 141
298 Cream, tunny, 141
2402 Cream, whipped or Chantilly, 711
Creams, classes of, 763
Creams for cold sweets, 763–771
280 Creams for Hors-d’œuvres, 139
335 Creams, moulded, 150
243 Creams, soups, 102
278 Creams, vegetable, 133
211 Crécy, Royale, 88
2644 Crème à la Chantilly, 764
2642 Crème à la Florentine, 764
2439 Crème à la Régence, 721
2639 Crème à la Vanille, moulée, 763
2641 Crème à la Viennoise, moulée, 764
2643 Crème à l’Opéra, 764
2397 Crème Anglaise, 708
697 Crème Argenteuil, 245
2640 Crème au Caramel, 764
699 Crème au Blé vert, 245
2645 Crème aux Fruits à la Chantilly, 765
705 Crème Brésilienne, 247
702 Crème Bruxelloise, 246
2646 Crème Caprice, 765
294 Crème, Caviare, 141
699 Crème Cérès, 245
701 Crème Chevreuse, 246
299 Crème, chicken, 141
696 Crème d’Artichauts au Beurre noisette, 244
697 Crème d’Asperges, 245
698 Crème d’Asperges vertes, 245
700 Crème de Céleri, 245
701 Crème de Cerfeuil bulbeux, 246
702 Crème de Chicorée de Bruxelles, 246
703 Crème d’Épinards, 246
704 Crème de Fèves nouvelles, 246
705 Crème d’Ignames, 705
706 Crème de Laitues, 247
707 Crème de Maïs, 247
712 Crème d’Orge, 248
708 Crème d’Oseille à l’Avoine, 247
709 Crème d’Oseille à l’Orge, 248
710 Crème d’Oxalis, 248
711 Crème de Riz, 248
713 Crème de Volaille Princesse, 249
703 Crème Florentine, 246
2312 Crème frite au Fromage, 681
706 Crème Judic, 247
2440 Crème meringuée, 721
2665 Crème Reine des Fées, 771
714 Crème Reine-Margot, 249
707 Crème Washington, 247
2138 Crêpes aux Épinards, 647
1411 Crépinettes à la Cendrillon, 463
1870 Crépinettes de Perdreaux, 591
1222 Crépinettes de Ris de Veau, 409
1410 Crépinettes truffées, 462
1661 Crêtes et Rognons de Coq, 525
1662 Crêtes et Rognons à la Grecque, 525
783 Crimping of fish, 267
2313 Croquettes, Camembert, 681
2451 Croquettes, chestnut, 723
2130 Croquettes de Crosnes, 645
219 Croquettes, potato, 92
Croquettes, recipes for, 723–724
2452 Croquettes, rice, 723
2453 Croquettes, various, 724
Crosnes du Japon. _See_ Stachys
1240 Croustade de Ris de Veau à la Financière, 413
2455 Croûte à la Lyonnaise, 724
2457 Croûte à la Maréchale, 724
2721 Croûte à la Mexicaine, 782
2458 Croûte à la Normande, 725
2459 Croûte à la Parisienne, 725
2460 Croûte aux Abricots au Marasquin, 725
2456 Croûte au Madère, 724
556 Croûte au Pot, 203
2454 Croûte aux fruits, 724
1338 Croûte aux Rognons, 443
2391 Croûte de Bouchée, 705
Croûtes, recipes for, 704–708, 724–725
2391 Croûte small-patty, 705
2461 Croûte Victoria, 725
2390 Croûte de vol-au-vent, 704
2393 Croûtes et Croustades, 705
2395 Crust, flawn, 707
2608 Crust, gilded, 755
2394 Crust, Timbale, 706
2121 Cucumber, 644
329d Cucumber à la Danoise, 149
332 Cucumber and pimento salad, 149
331 & 1991 Cucumber salad, 149, 617
Cucumbers. _See_ Concombres
240 Cullises, 100
144 Cullises, various, 55
134 Cumberland sauce, 52
2508 Curaçao pudding, 736
2353 Currants, 694
1345 Currie à l’Indienne, 445
1382 Currie d’Agneau, 455
1559 Currie de Poulet, 503
284 Curry butter, 139
81 Curry sauce, 37
1382 Curry of lamb, 455
1345 Curry of mutton à l’Indienne, 445
Custards, cold, 710–711
2398 Custards, English, dished, 709
2423 Custards fritters, 716
Custards, hot, 708–710
2442 Custards pudding, 722
Custards, various, 708 (_et seq._)
2441 Custard, Village, 721
Cutlets, lamb. _See under_ Lamb
Cutlets, pork. _See under_ Pork
Cutlets, veal. _See under_ Veau
D.
321 Danish toast, 146
790 Darne de Saumon à la Chambord, 270
791 Darne de Saumon à la Daumont, 271
792 Darne de Saumon à la Lucullus, 271
793 Darne de Saumon à la Nesselrode, 271
795 Darne de Saumon à la Royale, 272
796 Darne de Saumon à la Valois, 272
794 Darne de Saumon Régence, 272
1346 Daube à l’Avignonnaise, 445
1172 Daube à la Provençale, chaude, 388
1173 Daube à la Provençale, froide, 389
1347 Daube froide, 446
220 Dauphine potatoes, 92
Déjeuners, Menus de, 829–30
2314 Délices de Foie Gras, 681
2506 Denise, souffléd pudding, 735
1663 Désirs de Mascotte, 525
207 Deslignac, 87
399 Devilled eggs, 165
36 Devilled sauce, 26
37 Devilled sauce (Escoffier), 26
2315 Diablotins, 682
1715 Dindonneau, 543
1717 Dindonneau à la Catalane, 543
1722 Dindonneau, Ailerons de, dorés, à la Purée de Marrons, 545
1720 Dindonneau, Blanc de, à la Dampierre, 544
1721 Dindonneau, Blanc de, à la Toulousaine, 545
1718 Dindonneau Chipolata, 543
1719 Dindonneau en Daube, 544
1716 Dindonneau farci aux Marrons, 543
1722a Dindonneau froid, 546
1960 Dindonneau, roast, 610
1961 Dindonneau, truffled, 611
Dinner, Menus for, 831–40
2722 Diplomate aux fruits, 782
2141 Dolmas, 647
921 Dominos de Filets de Sole, 310
758 Dorado, 261
2601 Douillon Normand, 753
256 Dressing and accompaniments of roasts, 119
Drinks and refreshments, 816–819
221 Duchesse potatoes, 93
337 Duchesses, 150
339 Duchesses à la Reine, 151
340 Duchesses à la Sultane, 151
341 Duchesses caviare, 151
338 Duchesses Nantua, 150
343 Duchesses Norwegian, 151
342 Duchesses, smoked salmon, 151
1936 Duck, wild, 604
Duckling. _See_ Caneton
2361 Dumplings, paste for, 696
1166 Dumplings, suet, 386
225 Duxelle, for garnishing of small pies, etc., 94
223 Duxelle, ordinary or dry, 93
224 Duxelle, for stuffed vegetables, 93
E.
344 Éclairs, Karoly, 151
966 Écrevisses à la Bordelaise, 328
969 Écrevisses à la Liégeoise, 329
967 Écrevisses à la Marinière, 328
968 Écrevisses à la Nage, 329
975 Écrevisses Aspic de Queues d’, à la Moderne, 330
662 Écrevisses, Bisque d’, 233
147, 285 Écrevisses butter, 56, 140
345 Écrevisses en Buisson, 151
976 Écrevisses, Mousse d’, 331
977 Écrevisses, Mousse d’, Cardinal, 332
970 Écrevisses, Mousselines d’, 329
978 Écrevisses, petits Soufflés froids d’, 333
Écrevisses, preparation of, 327
972 Écrevisses, Soufflé d’, à la Florentine, 330
974 Écrevisses, Soufflé d’, à la Piémontaise, 330
973 Écrevisses, Soufflé d’, Léopold de Rothschild, 330
976a Écrevisses, Suprêmes d’, au Champagne, 332
971 Écrevisses, Timbale de Queues d’, à la Nantua, 329
322 Écrevisses toast, 146
310 Eel au vert, 143
311 Eel au vert, à la Flamande, 144
308 Eel, smoked, 143
309 Eel with white wine and paprika, 143
755 Eels, ways of cooking, 261
118 Egg sauce, Scotch, 46
117 Egg sauce with melted butter, 46
Egg-and-bread-crumbing. _See_ Anglaise
Egg-plant. _See_ Aubergines
484 Eggs à la Bordelaise, 184
400 Eggs à la Florentine, 165
409 Eggs à la Portugaise, 167
410 Eggs à la Reine, 167
2607 Eggs à la Religieuse, 754
438 Eggs à la Tripe, 174
439 Eggs à la Tripe bourgeoise, 174
401 Eggs au Gratin, 166
396 Eggs, Bercy, 165
389 Eggs, Chasseur, 165
535 Eggs, cold, à la Nantua, 194
537 Eggs, cold, à la Reine, 195
526 Eggs, cold, à l’Andalouse, 192
525 Eggs, cold, Alexandra, 192
527 Eggs, cold, Argenteuil, 192
528 Eggs, cold, Capucine, 193
529 Eggs, cold, Carême, 193
530 Eggs, cold, Colbert, 193
531 Eggs, cold, Colinette, 193
533 Eggs, cold, Frou-Frou, 194
534 Eggs, cold, Moscovite, 194
536 Eggs, cold, Polignac, 195
Eggs, cold, preparation of, 192
538 Eggs, cold, Rubens, 195
532 Eggs, cold, with Tarragon, 193
399 Eggs, devilled, 165
395 Eggs, on the dish, 164
440 Eggs en Cocotte, 174
443 Eggs en Cocotte, à la Jeannette, 175
445 Eggs en Cocotte, à la Lorraine, 175
446 Eggs en Cocotte, à la Maraichère, 175
448 Eggs en Cocotte, à la Soubise, 176
441 Eggs en Cocotte, with Chambertin, 174
442 Eggs en Cocotte, with cream, 175
444 Eggs en Cocotte, with gravy, 175
447 Eggs en Cocotte, with morels, 175
482 Eggs, fried, 183
487 Eggs, fried, à la Portugaise, 184
488 Eggs, fried, à la Provençale, 184
489 Eggs, fried, à la Romaine, 185
490 Eggs, fried, à la Verdi, 185
485 Eggs, fried, harvesters’, 184
486 Eggs, fried, poached, 184
491 Eggs, fried, poached, à la Villeroy, 185
483 Eggs, fried, preparation of, 183
433 Eggs, hard-boiled, 172
434 Eggs, hard-boiled, Carême, 172
435 Eggs, hard-boiled, Chimay, 173
436 Eggs, hard-boiled, in croquettes, 173
437 Eggs, hard-boiled, in rissoles, 173
373 Eggs, hard-boiled, various, 158
402 Eggs, Isoline, 166
403 Eggs, Jockey Club, 166
Eggs, lapwings’. _See_ Lapwings’ eggs
404 Eggs, Lully, 166
405 Eggs, Meyerbeer, 166
406 Eggs, Mirabeau, 166
449 Eggs, moulded, 176
450 Eggs, moulded, à la Carignan, 176
451 Eggs, moulded, à la Duchesse, 176
453 Eggs, moulded, à la Mortemart, 177
452 Eggs, moulded, Galli-Marié, 177
454 Eggs, moulded, Neapolitan, 177
455 Eggs, moulded, Palermitaine, 177
456 Eggs, moulded, Polignac, 178
457 Eggs, moulded, Princess, 178
458 Eggs, moulded, Printanier, 178
407 Eggs, Omer-pacha, 167
408 Eggs, Parmentier, 176
Eggs, plovers’. _See_ plovers’ eggs
Eggs, poached, 167
415 Eggs, poached, à l’Aurore, 169
417 Eggs, poached, à la Bohémienne, 169
419 Eggs, poached, à la Bruxelloise, 170
420 Eggs, poached, à la Clamart, 170
422 Eggs, poached, à la Comtesse, 170
414 Eggs, poached, Argenteuil, 169
418 Eggs, poached, Boïeldieu, 169
421 Eggs, poached, Colbert, 170
413 Eggs, poached, dishing of, 168
428 Eggs, poached, d’Orsay, 171
416 Eggs, poached, en Berceau, 169
486 Eggs, poached, fried, 184
491 Eggs, poached, fried à la Villeroy, 185
423 Eggs, poached, Grand Duc, 170
424 Eggs, poached, Maintenon, 170
425 Eggs, poached, Masséna, 171
426 Eggs, poached, Mireille, 171
427 Eggs, poached, Mornay, 171
411 Eggs, poached, procedure for, 167
429 Eggs, poached, Rossini, 171
430 Eggs, poached, Sévigné, 171
431 Eggs, poached, Victoria, 172
432 Eggs, poached, with red wine, 172
Eggs, recipes for, 164–196
459 Eggs, scrambled, 178
461 Eggs, scrambled, à la Bohémienne, 179
474 Eggs, scrambled, à la Piémontaise, 182
475 Eggs, scrambled, à la Portugaise, 182
463 Eggs, scrambled, Chasseur, 180
464 Eggs, scrambled, Chatillon, 180
469 Eggs, scrambled, Georgette, 181
468 Eggs, scrambled, Grand-mère, 181
470 Eggs, scrambled, for luncheon hot hors d’œuvre, 181
520 Eggs, scrambled, lapwings’, 191
460 Eggs, scrambled, method of scrambling, 179
473 Eggs, scrambled, Orloff, 181
476 Eggs, scrambled, Princess Mary, 182
477 Eggs, scrambled, Rachel, 182
478 Eggs, scrambled, Reine Margot, 182
480 Eggs, scrambled, Rothschild, 183
467 Eggs, scrambled, with cheese, 180
466 Eggs, scrambled, with herbs, 180
471 Eggs, scrambled, with morels, 181
472 Eggs, scrambled, with Mousserons, 181
462 Eggs, scrambled, with mushrooms, 180
465 Eggs, scrambled, with shrimps, 180
481 Eggs, scrambled, with truffles, 183
Eggs, soft-boiled, 167–
412 Eggs, soft-boiled, cooking of, 168
413 Eggs, soft-boiled, dishing of, 168
217 Eggs, threaded, 90
2342 Eggs, whites of, to beat, 689
397 Eggs, with brown butter, 165
Elementary preparations, chapter on, 70–86
1175 Émincé de Bœuf, 390
1176 Émincé de Bœuf en Miroton, 390
1348 Émincés et Hachis, 446
“En Casserole.” _See_ Poëlings
“En Cocotte.” _See_ Poëlings
2088 Endive, kinds of, 637
2481 English almond pudding, 730
2628 English blanc mange, 760
2489 English bread pudding, 733
2502 English rice pudding, 735
English sauces, cold, 52–53
English sauces, hot, 45–47
2498 English tapioca, etc., puddings, 734
2611 English tarts, 756
Entrées, garnishing preparations for 92–96
Entrées, mutton, lamb, etc., of, 431
Entrées and Relevés, 352–353
Entremets—(_for particular entremets see their Names_)—
Entremets, cold fruit, 771–787
Entremets, hot fruit, 743–745
Entremets, hot, various, 754–756
Entremets, various preparations for, 711–713
1003 Éperlans à l’Anglaise, 338
1004 Éperlans au Gratin, 339
1005 Éperlans grillés, 339
1007 Éperlans, Mousse chaude d’, à la Royale, 339
1006 Éperlans, Mousselines d’, 339
1378 Épigrammes d’Agneau, 454
1871 Épigrammes de Perdreau, 592
2133 Épinards à l’Anglaise, 646
2134 Épinards à la Crème, 646
2136 Épinards à la Viroflay, 646
2135 Épinards au Gratin, 646
703 Épinards, cream of, 246
2138 Épinards, Crêpes aux, 647
2139 Épinards, Soufflé aux, 647
2140 Épinards, Soufflé d’, aux Truffes, 647
137 Épinards, Subrics d’, 64
Escalopes de Foie Gras. _See under_ Foie Gras
1226 Escalopes de Ris de Veau à la Favorite, 410
1229 Escalopes de Ris de Veau à la Maréchale, 411
1225 Escalopes de Ris de Veau Bérengère, 410
1227 Escalopes de Ris de Veau Grand Duc, 410
1228 Escalopes de Ris de Veau Judic, 411
38 Escoffier, Chasseur sauce, 25
77 Escoffier, cherry sauce, 37
37 Escoffier, devilled sauce, 26
53 Escoffier, Robert sauce, 31
Espagnole. _See_ Brown sauce
2354 Essences, 694–
13 Essences, various, 13
Estouffade. _See_ Brown stock
2726 Eugenia: Italian cream, 783
F.
176 Faggots, 72
1831 Faisan à la Bohémienne, 581
1852 Faisan à la Bohémienne, 587
1835 Faisan à la Choucroûte, 582
1836 Faisan à la Crème, 582
1855 Faisan à la Croix de Berny, 588
1838 Faisan à la Géorgienne, 583
1971 Faisan à la Gunzbourg, 612
1829 Faisan à la Mode d’Alcantara, 580
1841 Faisan à la Normande, 583
1842 Faisan à la Périgueux, 584
1843 Faisan à la Régence, 584
1844 Faisan à la Sainte-Alliance, 584
1830 Faisan à l’Angoumoise, 581
1853 Faisan, Chaud-Froid de, 587
1854 Faisan, Chaud-Froid de, à la Buloz, 587
1846 Faisan, Côtelettes de, 585
1857 Faisan, Côtelettes de, 588
1837 Faisan Demidoff, 582
1832 Faisan en Casserole, 581
1834 Faisan en Chartreuse, 582
1833 Faisan en Cocotte, 581
1856 Faisan en Daube, 588
1846 Faisan, Filets de, 585
1858 Faisan, Galantine de, 588
1839 Faisan, Grillé, Diable, 583
1840 Faisan, Kotschoubey, 583
1859 Faisan, Mousse de, 588
1850 Faisan, Mousses et Mousselines de, 57
1860 Faisan, Pain de, en Belle-vue, 588
1849 Faisan, Pâté chaud de, 586
1969 Faisan, Rôti, 612
1970 Faisan, Rôti à la Périgourdine, 612
1847 Faisan, Salmis de, 585
1848 Faisan, Sauté de, 586
1851 Faisan, Soufflé de, 587
1845 Faisan Souvaroff, 585
1846 Faisan, Suprêmes de, 585
1861 Faisan, Suprêmes de, Châtelaine, 589
1862 Faisan, Suprêmes de, Gastronome, 589
1863 Faisan, Terrine de, 589
Farinaceous products, recipes for, 672–77
263 Fat, for frying, preparation, 123
Feathered game, roasts of, 612–15
347 Fennel à la Grecque, 152
116 Fennel sauce, 46
2142 Fennel, tuberous, 648
760 Féra, 261
2141 Feuilles de Vigne farcies, 647
2145 Fèves à la Crème, 648
2144 Fèves au Beurre, 648
704 Fèves, cream of, 246
2146 Fèves, Purée de, 648
1935 Fig-peckers, 604
348 Figs, fresh, 152
2750 Filbert ice-cream, 791
2523 Filbert, Soufflé with, 739
2339 Filberts, various preparations, 688
Filet de Bœuf. _See under_ Bœuf
1909 Filets de Cailles aux Pommes d’Or, 600
Filets de Levraut. _See under_ Levraut
Filets de Maquereau. _See under_ Maquereau
1018 Filets de Merlan au Gratin, 343
1021 Filets de Merlan Orly, 344
Filets de Poulet. _See under_ Poulet
Filets de Soles. _See under_ Soles
1076 Fillet steaks, 362
1580 Fillets of chicken, 507
Fish—_See also_ Bouillabaisse _and_ Matelote
162 Fish aspic, with red wine, 62
161 Fish aspic, with white wine, 61
776 Fish, boiling in salted water, 262
780 Fish, braising of, 265
1041 Fish cakes, 351
4 Fish Consommé, 6
778 Fish, cooking of, à la Meunière, 264
782 Fish, cooking of, au Gratin, 267
775 Fish, cooking, various ways of, 262
783 Fish, crimping of, 267
777 Fish, frying of, 263
265 Fish, frying medium for, 126
Fish, general remarks on, 260
18 Fish, glaze, 14
781 Fish, grilling of, 122, 266
779 Fish, poaching of, 265
210 Fish, Royale, 88
11 Fish, stock, white, 11
12 Fish, stock, with red wine, 12
204 Fish, special stuffings for, 83
2155 Flageolets, 649
636 Flageolets, Purée of, 227
2649 Flamri, 765
2063 Flan aux Carottes, 632
2064 Flan de Pommes à la Batelière, 754
2063 Flan de Pommes chaud, Ninon, 753
2076 Flan, grillé aux Champignons, 634
2354 Flavourings, 694
2395 Flawn crust, 707
182 Flour, 75–
191 Flour panada, 78
2419 Flower, fritters, 715
349 Foie-Gras, 152
1726 Foie-Gras, 547
1735 Foie-Gras, Aspic de, 551
1737 Foie-Gras au Paprika, 552
1727 Foie-Gras, cuit dans une Brioche, 548
2314 Foie-Gras, Délices de, 681
1728 Foie-Gras, Escalopes de, à la Périgueux, 549
1729 Foie-Gras, Escalopes de, à la Ravignan, 549
1730 Foie-Gras, Escalopes de, à la Talleyrand, 549
1738 Foie-Gras, Escalopes de, Maréchale, 552
1736 Foie-Gras, Gastronome, 551
1739 Foie-Gras, Mousse de, 552
1740 Foie-Gras, Mousselines de, 553
1741 Foie-Gras, Pain de, 553
1742 Foie-Gras, Parfait de, 553
1743 Foie-Gras, Pavé de, Lucullus, 553
384 Foie-Gras, sausages, 160
1731 Foie-Gras, Soufflés de, 550
1732 Foie-Gras, Timbale de, à l’Alsacienne, 550
1733 Foie-Gras, Timbale de, Cambacérès, 550
1734 Foie-Gras, Timbale de, Montesquieu, 551
1744 Foie-Gras, Timbale de, Tzarine, 554
1248 Foie de Veau à l’Anglaise, 418
1247 Foie de Veau braisé à la Bourgeoise, 417
1250 Foie de Veau à l’Espagnole, 418
1249 Foie de Veau, Brochettes de, 418
1252 Foie de Veau, Pain de, 418
1251 Foie de Veau sauté aux fines Herbes, 418
1666 Foies de Volaille sautés au Vin rouge, 527
2316 Fondants au Chester, 682
Fonds d’Artichauts. _See under_ Artichauts
205 Forcemeat balls or Quenelles, 84
195 Forcemeat, chicken, fine, 79
200 Forcemeat, chicken, for galantines, &c., 81
193 Forcemeat, chicken, with panada and butter, 78
194 Forcemeat, chicken, with panada and cream, 79
197 Forcemeat for galantines, pies, terrines, 80
201 Forcemeat, game, for pies and terrines, 82
202 Forcemeat, gratin, for hot raised pies, 82
195 Forcemeat, “Mousseline,” 79
203 Forcemeat, pike, for Quenelles, 83
196 Forcemeat, pork, 80
199 Forcemeat, veal, with fat and cream, 81
198 Forcemeat, veal, with fat or Godiveau, 80
246 Foreign soups, 103
Fowl. _See also_ Volaille
1652 Fowl, Abatis de, aux Navets, 522
1654 Fowl, Ballotines of, 523
Fowl, cold, preparations of, 531 _et seq._
670 Fowl, coulis of, 236
1653 Fowl, giblet pie, 523
1654 Fowl, legs of, boned and stuffed, 523
744 Fowl, livers, soup of, 257
1669 Fowl, marinade of, 528
Fowl roasts, 609–11
63 Foyot sauce, 34
2742 Fraisalia Timbale, 786
2673 Fraises à la Créole, 773
2683 Fraises à la Ritz, 775
2684 Fraises, Cardinal, 775
2674 Fraises, Fémina, 773
2681 Fraises, Lérina, 774
2675 Fraises, Marguerite, 774
2676 Fraises, Marquise, 774
2677 Fraises, Melba, 774
2678 Fraises, Nina, 774
2682 Fraises, Rêve de Bébé, 775
2679 Fraises, Romanoff, 774
2743 Fraises, Tivoli aux, 787
2680 Fraises, Wilhelmine, 774
2685 Fraises, Zelma Kuntz, 775
2399 Frangipan cream, 710
2400 Frangipan for fried cream, 710
192 Frangipan panada, 78
2157 French Beans, 650
2158 French Beans, panachés, 650
638, 2159 French Beans, purée of, 227, 650
2625 French blanc mange, 759
2410 French bread pudding, 733
2497 Fresh noodle pudding, 734
1277 Fricadelles, 425
1206 Fricandeau, 403
1207 Fricandeau, froid, 403
1667 Fricassée de Poulet à l’Ancienne, 527
1668 Fricassée de Poulet aux Écrevisses, 528
1276 Fricassée de Veau, 425
1669 Fritôt ou Marinade de Volaille, 528
2430 Fritters à la Bourgeoise, 719
2432 Fritters à la Grand-mère, 719
2435 Fritters à la Suzon, 720
2422 Fritters, Acacia-flower, 716
2588 Fritters, apple, 751
2420 Fritters, apricot, 715
231 Fritters, batter for, 95
2423 Fritters, custard, 716
2419 Fritters, flower, 715
233 Fritters, batter for flower, 96
2419 Fritters, fruit, 715
233 Fritters, fruit batter for, 96
234 Fritters, batter for oven-glazed fruit, 96
2434 Fritters, Mignon, 719
2429 Fritters, pineapple, à la Favorite, 718
2433 Fritters, Régina, 719
Fritters, souffléd, 718
2427 Fritters, souffléd, ordinary, 718
2428 Fritters, souffléd, en surprise, 718
2421 Fritters, strawberry, 715
2431 Fritters, Sylvana, 719
Fritters, various, 718–20
2424 Fritters, Viennese, 717
2426 Fritters, Viennese, cold, 717
2425 Fritters, Viennese, hot, 717
350 Frivolities, 152
351 Frogs, 152
762 Frogs, 261
683 Frogs, Velouté of, 240
2786 Fromage glacé, 796
2623 Fruit Bavarois, various, 759
2350 Fruit, candied, 693
Fruit Entremets, cold, 771–87
Fruit Entremets, hot, 743–45
2419 Fruit, fritters of fresh, 715
Fruit ice-creams, preparation of, 792
2725 Fruit, Macédoine of, cooled, 783
Fruit preparations, 793–95
Fruit puddings, English, 731–33
2409 Fruit sauce, 713
2520 Fruit soufflés, in a croustade, 739
2953 Fruit, stewed, 820
2952 Fruit, stewed, plain, 820
2741 Fruit, Suédoise of, 786
2609 Fruit suprême à la Gabrielle, 755
263 Frying fat, its preparation, 123
777 Frying of fish, 263
267 Frying medium, care of the, 127
264 Frying medium, degrees of heat for, 124
265 Frying medium for fish, 126
266 Frying medium, quantity of, 126
262 Fryings, 123
G.
1858 Galantine de Faisan, 588
1708 Galantine de Volaille, 538
197 Galantines, forcemeat for, 80
200 Galantines, chicken forcemeat, for, 81
452 Galli-Marié, moulded eggs, 177
160 Game, aspic of, 61
5 Game Consommé, 7
296 Game cream, 141
1827 Game, feathered, 579
201 Game forcemeat, for pies and terrines, 82
17 Game glaze, 14
209 Game Royale, 88
8 Game stock, brown, 10
Game, venison and ground, 567–578
1924 Gangas, 602
Garden party, luncheon menu for, 843
2731 Garnished meringues, 784
Garnishes for soups, 87–91
Garnishes, various kinds of, 77–86
279 Garnishes, vegetable, 133
Garnishes, vegetables and, 132–134
Garnishing preparations for Relevés and Entrées, 92–96
628 Gelée aux Pommes d’Amour, 225
629 Gelée de Volaille à la Napolitaine, 225
628 Gelée of tomatoes, 225
2654 Gelées rubannées, 768
1983 Gelinottes rôties, 615. _See also_ Hazel Hens
124 Genoa sauce, 48
38 Genevoise sauce, 26
2444 Georgette pancakes, 722
2491 German bread pudding, 733
1653 Giblet pie, 523
741 Giblet soup, 256
2355 Gilding preparation, 694
2086 Giroles, 636
1307 Gigot à la Boulangère, 434
1309 Gigot à la Soubise, 435
1305 Gigot Bouilli à l’Anglaise, 433
1308 Gigot mariné en Chevreuil, 434
2445 Gil-Blas pancakes, 722
2345 Glace à l’Ancienne, 691
2346 Glace au Fondant, 691
2777 Glace Alhambra, 795
2778 Glace Carmen, 795
2779 Glace Comtesse Marie, 795
2780 Glace Coucher de Soleil, 795
2781 Glace Dame-Jeanne, 795
2789 Glace des Iles, 796
2787 Glace des Gourmets, 796
2782 Glace Dora, 795
2783 Glace Étoile du Berger, 795
2784 Glace Fleurette, 796
2785 Glace Francillon, 796
2786 Glacé, Fromage, 796
2793 Glace Marie-Thérèse, 797
2795 Glace Plombière, 797
2346 Glace, Sucre en, 692
2790 Glacée, Madeleine, 796
2794 Glacées, Meringues, 797
2791 Glacées, Mandarines, 797
2792 Glacées, Mandarines, aux Perles des Alpes, 797
18 Glaze, fish, 14
17 Glaze, game, 14
23 Glaze, half, 19
15 Glaze, meat, 14
16 Glaze, poultry, 14
272 Glazes, 129
14 Glazes, various, 13
Glazing of braised meat, 106
2341 Glazing, moulds of, 689
Glossary, xiii–xvi
135 Gloucester sauce, 52
2281 Gnochi à la Romaine, 672
2280 Gnochi au Gratin, 672
2282 Gnochi of potatoes, 672
2147 Gombos, 648
2148 Gombos à la Crème, 648
2149 Gombos for garnishing, 648
749 Gombos soup, 258
365 Goose, breast of, smoked, 156
2686 Gooseberry fool, 776
84 Gooseberry sauce, 38
Gosling. _See also_ Oison
1962 Gosling, roast, 611
382 Gotha and Milan Salami, 160
2375 Gougère paste, 701
1177 Goulash de Bœuf à la Hongroise, 390
39 Grand-Veneur sauce, 28
2930 Granités, 814
2775 Grape ice, 794
269 Gratin, complete, 127
2222 Gratin de Pommes de Terre à la Dauphinoise, 661
202 Gratin forcemeat for hot raised pies, 82
271 Gratin, light, 129
270 Gratin, rapid, 128
268 Gratins, 127
255 Gravy of roasts, 118
41 Gravy, thickened, 28
42 Gravy, veal, tomaté, 28
289 Green butter, 140
143 Green colouring butter, 55
131 Green sauce, 51
2414 Greengage sauce, 714
1216 Grenadins, 406
1217 Grenadins, froids en Belle-vue, 406
125 Gribiche sauce, 49
2321 Grilled bones, 683
781 Grilling of fish, 266
261 Grilling of products coated with butter and bread crumbs, 122
257 Grills, 119
Grills, classified, 120–131
260 Grills, fish, 122
258 Grills, red meat, 120
259 Grills, white meat, 122
1926 Grives à la Bonne-Femme, 602
1927 Grives à la Liégeoise, 602
666 Grives, Coulis de, au Pain noir, 235
1925 Grives et Merles de Corse, 602
1928 Grives, froides, 603
1979 Grives, rôties, 614
Ground-game roasts, 611–612
1923 Grouse, 602
667 Grouse, Coulis of, 235
1983 Grouse, roast, 615
761 Gudgeon, 261
2364 Gumming, method of, 696
H.
1178 Hachis de Bœuf à l’Américaine, 391
1179 Hachis de Bœuf à Parmentier, 391
1008 Haddock, 340
1001 Haddock, fresh, 338
2328, 2329 Haddock, tartlets of, 684
23 Half glaze, 19
Ham. _See also_ Jambon
1416 Ham à la Chanoinesse, 465
1417 Ham à la Choucroûte, 465
1418 Ham à la Maillot, 465
359 Ham, Ardennes, 155
1437 Ham, cold, à la Gelée, 470
1439 Ham, cold, Mousse de, 471
1440 Ham, cold, Mousse de, à l’Alsacienne, 471
1442 Ham, cold Mousselines of, 472
1438 Ham, cold Soufflé of, 471
1420 Ham, garnishes for braised, 466
1415 Ham, hot, 464
Ham, kinds of, 464
1441 Ham, Mousse de, au Blanc de Poulet, 471
1430 Ham, Mousse de, chaude, 469
1431 Ham, Mousse de, treatment and accompaniment of, 469
1434 Ham, Mousselines de, à la Florentine, 470
1435 Ham, Mousselines de, à la Hongroise, 470
1433 Ham, Mousselines de, Alexandra, 470
1442 Ham, Mousselines de, cold, 472
1430 Ham, Mousselines de, hot, 469
1432 Ham, Mousselines de, treatment and poaching, 469
1436 Ham, Mousselines de, with Petits Pois, 470
1419a Ham, Prague, à la Metternich, 466
1419b Ham, Prague, à la Norfolk, 466
1419 Ham, Prague, sous la cendre, 465
1421, 1422 Ham Soufflé, 466, 467
1425 Ham soufflé Alexandra, 468
1426 Ham soufflé Carmen, 468
1427 Ham soufflé Gastronome, 468
1428 Ham soufflé Milanaise, 468
1429 Ham soufflé Périgourdine, 468
1423 Ham soufflé, preparation of, with cooked ham, 467
1424 Ham soufflé, preparation of, with raw ham, 467
333 Ham, York Cones, 150
315 Hamburg beef, smoked, 145
Hard-boiled eggs. _See under_ Eggs
Hare. _See also_ Lièvre
1810 Hare, choosing of, 572
1967 Hare, roast, 611
1349 Haricot de Mouton, 446
2151 Haricots blancs à l’Américaine, 649
2153 Haricots blancs à la Bretonne, 649
2152 Haricots blancs au Beurre, 649
637 Haricots blancs, Purée de, 228
2154 Haricots blancs, Purée de, 649
1992 Haricots blancs, Salade de, 617
2154 Haricots blancs, Soissonnaise, 649
Haricots Flageolets. _See_ Flageolets
2158 Haricots panachés, 650
639 Haricots rouges, Purée de, 228
Haricots verts. _See_ French beans
1919 Hazel hens, 602
667 Hazel hens, Coulis of, 235
1983 Hazel hens, roast, 615
155 Hazel-nut butter, 58
2413 Hazel-nut sauce, 714
2339 Hazel-nuts, various preparations of, 688
264 Heat, various degrees of, and their application, 124
183 Herb juice, 75
83 Herb sauce, 38
355 Herrings à la Livonienne, 153
356 Herrings à la Russe, 153
763 Herrings, fresh, 261
353 Herrings, fresh, marinaded with white wine, 153
765 Herrings, fresh-water, 261
354 Herrings, Lucas, 153
352 Herrings, salted, salad of filleted, 153
357 Herrings, with French beans, 154
2533 Hilda Soufflé, 740
30 Hollandaise sauce, 22
939 Homard à l’Américaine, 316
940 Homard à la Bordelaise, 317
942 Homard à la Broche, 318
945 Homard à la Crème, 319
959 Homard à la Grammont, 324
947 Homard à la Mornay, 320
949 Homard à la Newburg, with cooked lobster, 320
948 Homard à la Newburg with raw lobster, 320
950 Homard à la Palestine, 320
960 Homard à la Parisienne, 325
961 Homard à la Russe, 326
947 Homard au Gratin, 320
954 Homard, Aspic de, 322
663 Homard, Bisque de, 234
941 Homard, bouilli à la Hollandaise, 317
149, 287 Homard butter, 56, 140
943 Homard Cardinal, 318
944 Homard Clarence, 319
953 Homard, cold, with various sauces, 322
955 Homard, Côtelettes de, Arkangel, 323
295 Homard cream, 141
946 Homard grillé, 319
962 Homard, Mayonnaise de, 327
956 Homard, Mousse de, 323
957 Homard, Mousse de, moulée, 324
958 Homard, Mousse de, petites, 324
951 Homard, Mousselines de, 321
963 Homard, Salade de, 327
952 Homard, Soufflés de, 321
684 Homard, Velouté de, 241
685 Homard, Velouté de, à la Cleveland, 241
686 Homard, Velouté de, à l’Indienne, 241
687 Homard, Velouté de, à l’Orientale, 241
689 Homard, Velouté de, à la Persane, 242
688 Homard, Velouté de, au Paprika, 242
2150 Hop sprouts, 648
Hors-d’œuvres, general remarks on, 137–39
Hors-d’œuvres, preparations for, 139–42
Hors-d’œuvres, recipes for, 142–63
290 Horse-radish butter, 140
119 Horse-radish sauce, 47
138 Horse-radish sauce, 53
980 Huîtres à la Favorite, 333
984 Huîtres à la Florentine, 334
982 Huîtres à la Mornay, 334
981 Huîtres au Gratin, 334
318 Huîtres, brochettes d’, Lucifer, 682
985 Huîtres grillées, 334
358 Huîtres, Hors-d’œuvres pour, 154
364 Huîtres natives, with caviare, 155
986 Huîtres, Quenelles d’, à la Reine, 334
983 Huîtres soufflées, 334
690 Huîtres, Velouté d’, 242
85 Hungarian sauce, 38
I.
2777 Ice, Alhambra, 795
2761 Ice, apricot, 793
2763 Ice, banana, 793
2778 Ice, Carmen, 795
2764 Ice, cherry, 793
2779 Ice, Comtesse Marie, 795
2780 Ice, Coucher de Soleil, 795
2781 Ice, Dame-Jeanne, 795
2782 Ice, Dora, 795
2783 Ice, Étoile du Berger, 795
2775 Ice, grape, 794
2765 Ice, lemon, 793
2770 Ice, melon, 794
2771 Ice, orange, 794
2772 Ice, peach, 794
2773 Ice, pear, 794
2762 Ice, pineapple, 793
2774 Ice, plum, 794
2767 Ice, raspberry, 793
2768 Ice, red-currant, 794
2766 Ice, strawberry, 793
2769 Ice, tangerine, 794
2776 Ice, violet, 794
2748 Ice-cream, almond, 790
2749 Ice-cream, asparagus, 791
2752 Ice-cream, chocolate, 791
2751 Ice-cream, coffee, 791
2750 Ice-cream, filbert, 791
2759 Ice-cream, fruit, making of, 792
2758 Ice-cream, fruit, preparations for, 792
2760 Ice-cream, Liqueur, preparations for, 792
2754 Ice-cream, pistachio, 791
2755 Ice-cream, pralined, 791
Ice-cream, preparation of, 790–793
2756 Ice-cream, tea, 791
2757 Ice-cream, vanilla, 791
753 Ice-cream, walnut, 791
Ices. _See also_ Biscuits, Iced Bombes, Coupes,
Ice, Glace, Granités, Marquises, Mousses _and_ Sorbets
2816 Ices, light, 800
2744 Ices, making of, 788
2745, 2788 Ices, moulding of, 789, 796
2746 Ices, preparations for, 790
Iced Soufflés, 812
2817 Ices, various preparations, 800
2346a Icing sugar, 692
2723 Ile flottante, 782
2509 Indian pudding, souffléd, 736
1350 Irish-stew, 447
40 Italian sauce, 28
87 Ivory sauce, 39
J.
2956 Jam, apricot, 821
2957 Jam, cherry, 822
Jam omelets, 726
2960 Jam, plum, 823
2961 Jam, rhubarb, 823
2958 Jam, strawberry, 822
2962 Jam, tomato, 824
2954 Jams, 820
2955 Jams, cooking potting and sealing of, 821
Jambon. _See also_ Ham
1416 Jambon à la Chanoinesse, 465
1417 Jambon à la Choucroûte, 465
1418 Jambon à la Maillot, 465
1419 Jambon de Prague sous la Cendre, 465
1419a Jambon de Prague à la Metternich, 466
1419b Jambon de Prague à la Norfolk, 466
1437 Jambon froid à la gelée, 470
1441 Jambon, Mousse de, au blanc de Poulet, 471
1439 Jambon, Mousse froide de, 471
1440 Jambon, Mousse froide de, à l’Alsacienne, 471
1434 Jambon, Mousselines de, à la Florentine, 470
1435 Jambon, Mousselines de, à la Hongroise, 470
1433 Jambon, Mousselines de, Alexandra, 470
1436 Jambon, Mousselines de, aux petits pois, 470
1442 Jambon, Mousselines de, froides, 472
1421 Jambon soufflé, 466
1438 Jambon soufflé, froid, 471
2529 Java Soufflé, 740
2656 Jellies à la Moscovite, 768
2655 Jellies à la Russe, 768
Jellies, Aspics, 59–63
2650 Jellies, classes of, 765
2653 Jellies, garnish and accompaniments of, 767
Jellies, recipes for, 765–768
2654 Jellies, rubannées, 768
Jellies, savoury or aspic, 59–63
2971 Jelly, apple, 827
2351 Jelly, apple for decorating, 693
2963 Jelly, black-currant, 825
2651 Jelly, calf’s foot, 766
2652 Jelly, Gelatine base, with, 766
2970 Jelly, orange, 827
2964 Jelly, quince, 825
2965, 2967 Jelly, red-currant, 825, 826
2969 Jelly, red-currant, prepared cold, 826
2972, 2973 Jelly, tomato, 827
2968 Jelly, white-currant, 826
1000 John Dory (St. Pierre), 338
88 Joinville sauce, 39
2566 Jubilee cherries, 747
K.
2293 Kache de Sarrasin for Potages, 675
2292 Kache de Semoule for Coulibiac, 675
2942 Kaltschale, 818
344 Karoly Éclairs, 151
752 Kidney soup, 259
307 Kilkis, 143
L.
598 La Petite Marmite, 215
2378 Lady’s Finger Biscuit Paste, 702
998 Laitances à la Florentine, Barquettes de, 337
997 Laitances à la Meunière, 337
999 Laitances à la Nantua, Caisses de, 338
996 Laitances de Carpe, 337
2164 Laitues à la Crème, 651
2161 Laitues à la Moelle, 651
2160 Laitues, braisées au Jus, 650
706 Laitues, cream, 247
2162 Laitues, farcies, 651
2163 Laitues, farcies pour Garniture, 651
2165 Laitues, Soufflé de, 651
1355 Lamb, Baron of, 449
1382 Lamb, Curry of, 455
1370 Lamb cutlets, 452
1371 Lamb cutlets à la Buloz, 452
1372 Lamb cutlets, Maréchale, 452
1373 Lamb cutlets, Milanaise, 453
1374 Lamb cutlets, Morland, 453
1375 Lamb cutlets, Navarraise, 453
1376 Lamb cutlets, Nelson, 453
1377 Lamb cutlets, stuffed, à la Périgueux, 454
1356 Lamb, double of, 449
1378 Lamb, Épigrammes, 454
1358 Lamb, fillet of, 449
Lamb, grass and house, 431–432
Lamb, house, recipes for, 449 _et seq._
1369 Lamb, leg and shoulders of, 452
1359 Lamb, neck of, 449
1363 Lamb, neck of, à la Boulangère, 450
1368 Lamb, neck of, à la Toscane, 451
1361 Lamb, neck of, Beaucaire, 450
1362 Lamb, neck of, en Cocotte à la Bonne-Femme, 450
1364 Lamb, neck of, grilled, 450
1365 Lamb, neck of, Mireille, 451
1366 Lamb, neck of, Printanier, 451
1367 Lamb, neck of, Soubise, 451
1381 Lamb, pilaw of, 455
1357 Lamb, quarter of, 449
1952 Lamb, roasts, 607
1359 Lamb, saddle of, 449
1360 Lamb, saddle of house, Édouard VII, 449
1380 Lamb, sauté Printanier, 455
1379 Lamb, sweetbread of, 454
764 Lampreys, 261
1918 Land-rail, 602
964 Langouste à la Parisienne, 327
965 Langouste à la Russe, 327
1156 Langue de Bœuf aux Fèves, 383
1155 Langue de Bœuf Bourgeoise, 383
1154 Langue de Bœuf Choucroûte, 383
1157 Langue de Bœuf Flamande, 383
1158 Langue de Bœuf froide, 384
1826 Lapereaux, 578
1940 Lapwings, 604
371 Lapwings’ eggs à la Christiana, 157
521 Lapwings’ eggs à la Danoise, 191
370 Lapwings’ eggs à la Moderne, 157
372 Lapwings’ eggs à la Moscovite, 157
523 Lapwings’ eggs à la Royale, 191
524 Lapwings’ eggs au Troubadour, 191
519 Lapwings’ eggs, hot, 191
369 Lapwings’ eggs in Aspic, 157
522 Lapwings’ eggs, omelet of, 191
368 Lapwings’ eggs, plain, 156
520 Lapwings’ eggs, scrambled, 191
1982 Lapwings, roast, 615
252 Larding bacon for roasts, 116
Larding of meat for braisings, 105
Larks. _See_ Mauviettes _and_ Alouettes
2168 Laver, 651
751 Leek soup, 259
2765 Lemon, ice, 793
2507 Lemon, pudding, souffléd, 736
2937 Lemonade, 817
179 Lemons, channelled, 73
179 Lemons, peeled, 73
179 Lemons, zested, 73
76 Lent Chaud-froid sauce, 36
Lenten Aspics, 61–63
61 Lenten, Aurore sauce, 33
24 Lenten, sauce, brown, 19
1992 Lentil salad, 617
2166 Lentilles au Beurre, 651
640 Lentilles, Purée de, 228
2167 Lentilles, Purée de, 651
2530 Lérina, Soufflé, 740
Lettuce. _See_ Laitues.
1810 Leverets to choose, 572
1816 Levraut, Filets de, à la Dampierre, 574
1817 Levraut, Filets de, à la Mornay, 574
1818 Levraut, Filets de, à la Vendôme, 575
1821 Lièvre, Civet de, 576
1815 Lièvre, Cuisses de, 574
1822 Lièvre en Daube, 576
1811 Lièvre, farci, à la Périgourdine, 573
1819 Lièvre, Mousses de, 575
1823 Lièvre, Pain de, 577
1824 Lièvre, Pâté de, 577
1812 Lièvre, Râble de, 573
1813 Lièvre, Râble de, à l’Allemande, 573
1814 Lièvre, Râble de, au Genièvre, 574
1820 Lièvre, Soufflé de, 575
1825 Lièvre, Terrine de, 578
2151 Lima beans, 649
2760 Liqueur-ice preparations, 792
Lobster. _See_ Homard.
Lobsters, spiny. _See_ Langouste.
766 Lotte, 262
354 Lucas herrings, 153
324 Lucile toast, 147
2532 Lucullus Soufflé, 740
Luncheon menus, 833, 843
43 Lyonnaise sauce, 29
383 Lyons sausages, 160
M.
2284 Macaroni, 673
2285 Macaroni à l’Italienne, 673
2288 Macaroni à la Nantua, 674
2289 Macaroni à la Napolitaine, 674
2286 Macaroni au Gratin, 673
2287 Macaroni au Jus, 673
2290 Macaroni aux Truffes blanches, 674
2725 Macédoine of cooled fruit, 783
44 Madeira sauce, 29
2790 Madeleine glacée, 796
226 Maintenon, preparation, 94
707 Maïs, cream of, 247
2170 Maïs, Soufflé de, à la Crème, 652
2171 Maïs, Soufflé de, au Paprika, 652
2169 Maize, 651
89 Maltese sauce, 39
2688 Mandarines à la Crème, 776
2571 Mandarines à la Palikare, 748
2687 Mandarines Almina, 776
1912 Mandarines de Cailles, 601
2689 Mandarines en Surprise, 776
2791 Mandarines glacées, 797
2792 Mandarines glacées aux Perles des Alpes, 797
151 Manied butter, 56
1009 Maquereau bouilli, sauce aux Groseilles, 341
1013 Maquereau, Filets de, à la Vénitienne, 342
1012 Maquereau, Filets de, au Persil, 341
1011 Maquereau, Filets de, aux Fines Herbes, 341
1010 Maquereau grillé, 341
1809 Marcassin, 572
2544 Marie-Louise Timbale, 742
2921 Marie-Rose Pudding, 811
168 Marinade, cooked, for venison, 67
169 Marinade, raw for venison, 67
170 Marinade, roebuck-style for mutton, 68
171 Marinade, with red wine for mutton, 68
Marinades, 64–69
90 Marinière sauce, 39
2959 Marmalade, orange, 823
2727 Marquise Alice, 783
222 Marquise potatoes, 93
2931 Marquises, 814
Marrons. _See also_ Chestnuts
2175 Marrons, Purée de, 653
2488 Marrow pudding, 732
45 Marrow sauce, 29
1663 Mascotte, Désirs de, 525
1038 Matelote au Vin Blanc, 349
1037 Matelote au Vin Rouge, 349
227 Matignon, 94
1929 Mauviettes à la Bonne Femme, 603
1930 Mauviettes à la Mère Marianne, 603
1932 Mauviettes froides, 603
734 Mauviettes, Pâté de, 158
1980 Mauviettes rôties, 614
962 Mayonnaise de Homard, 327
809 Mayonnaise de Saumon, 277
1712 Mayonnaise de Volaille, 541
126 Mayonnaise sauce, 49
127 Mayonnaise sauce, cleared, 50
128 Mayonnaise sauce, whisked, 50
Meat, braised, to fry, prepare, and cook, 105
15 Meat glaze, 14
250 Meats, poëled, preparation of, 113
248 Meats, white, braising of, 110
808 Médaillons de Saumon, 276
1707 Médaillons de Volaille Rachel, 538
2728 Melon à l’Orientale, 784
360 Melon Cantaloup, 155
2730 Melon en Surprise, 784
2729 Melon frappé, 784
2770 Melon iced, 794
362 Melon with Port, Marsala, or Sherry, 155
361 Melons, English, 155
363 Melons, various, 155
2941 Melonade, 817
151a Melted butter, 57
Menus, 831–48
2383–84 Meringue à l’Italienne, 703
2382 Meringue, ordinary, 703
2568 Meringued cherry flawn, 747
2731 Meringues garnished, 784
2794 Meringues glacées, 797
1015 Merlan à la Bercy, 342
1016 Merlan à la Colbert, 342
1023 Merlan à la Richelieu, 344
1014 Merlan à l’Anglaise, 342
1020 Merlan en Lorgnette au Gratin, 343
1018 Merlan, Filets de, au Gratin, 343
1021 Merlan, Filets de, Orly, 344
1017 Merlan, Mousselines de, 342
1019 Merlan, Paupiettes de, au Gratin, 343
1022 Merlan, sur le Plat, 344
1926 Merles à la Bonne Femme, 602
1927 Merles à la Liégeoise, 602
1928 Merles froids, 603
1979 Merles rôti, 614
2434 Mignon fritters, 719
1625 Mignonnettes de Poulet, 516
382 Milan Salami, 160
288 Milt butter, 140
2724 Milk junket, 783
Milk punch, 222
747 Mille-Fanti, 258
2605 Mince-pies, 754
746 Minestrone, 257
1322 Minion fillets, 439
136 Mint sauce, 52
228 Mirepoix, 94
229 Mirepoix, fine or Bordelaise, 94
2732 Mont-Blanc aux Fraises, 784
2733 Mont-Blanc aux Marrons, 785
2545 Montmorency, Timbale, 742
2734 Mont-Rose, 785
153, 289 Montpellier butter, 57, 140
2080 Morels, 635
2081 Morilles à la Crème, 636
2083 Morilles à la Poulette, 636
2082 Morilles farcies, 636
2084 Morilles sautées, 636
2085 Morilles, Tourte de, 636
91 Mornay sauce, 39
1024 Morue, 344
1024a Morue à l’Anglaise, 344
1025 Morue à la Bénédictine, 344
1029 Morue à la Créole, 346
1030 Morue à la Hollandaise, 346
1031 Morue à l’Indienne, 346
1032 Morue à la Lyonnaise, 346
1026 Morue au Beurre noir, 345
1026 Morue au Beurre noisette, 345
1027 Morue, Brandade de, 345
1028 Morue, Brandade de, à la Crème, 345
1033 Morue, Soufflé de, 346
767 Mostele, 262
2736 Moulded Œufs à la Neige, 785
2945 Moulding of ices, 789
2341 Moulds, buttering of, 689
2341 Moulds, glazing of, 689
1351 Moussaka, 447
1007 Mousse chaude d’Éperlans à la Royale, 339
1770 Mousse de Caneton Rouennais, 562
976 Mousse d’Écrevisses, 331
977 Mousse d’Écrevisses Cardinal, 332
1859 Mousse de Faisan, 588
1739 Mousse de Foie gras, 552
956 Mousse de Homard, 323
957 Mousse de Homard, moulée, 324
1441 Mousse de Jambon au Blanc de Poulet, 471
439 Mousse de Jambon froide, 471
1440 Mousse de Jambon froide à l’Alsacienne, 471
1711 Mousse de Volaille froide, 541
1917 Mousses de Cailles, 602
Mousses, iced, 810–815
2915 Mousses, iced, preparation for, 810
2916 Mousses, iced, preparation for, with cream, 810
2917 Mousses, iced, various, 810
Mousses, preparation of, 279
1879 Mousses et Mousselines de Bécasse, 594
1769 Mousses et Mousselines de Caneton Rouennais, 562
1850 Mousses et Mousselines de Faisan, 587
1430 Mousses et Mousselines de Jambon, 469
1819 Mousses et Mousselines de Lièvre, 575
1670 Mousses et Mousselines de Volaille, 528
195 Mousseline forcemeat, 79
2511 Mousseline pudding, 737
92 Mousseline sauce, 40
798 Mousselines, Alexandra, 272
2389 Mousselines, paste for Brioche, 699
970 Mousselines d’Écrevisses, 329
1006 Mousselines d’Éperlans, 339
1740 Mousselines de Foie gras, 553
951 Mousselines de Homard, 321
1434 Mousselines de Jambon à la Florentine, 470
1435–36 Mousselines de Jambon à la Hongroise, 470
1433 Mousselines de Jambon Alexandra, 470
1436 Mousselines de Jambon aux Petits Pois, 470
1442 Mousselines de Jambon froides, 472
1017 Mousselines de Merlan, 342
2737 Mousselines d’Œufs Réjane, 785
1790 Mousselines de Pigeonneaux à l’Épicurienne, 567
797 Mousselines de Saumon, 272
799 Mousselines de Saumon à la Tosca, 273
906 Mousselines de Sole, 303
1677 Mousselines de Volaille à la Florentine, 529
1672 Mousselines de Volaille à l’Indienne, 529
1674 Mousselines de Volaille à la Patti, 529
1675 Mousselines de Volaille à la Sicilienne, 529
1671 Mousselines de Volaille Alexandra, 529
1673 Mousselines, de Volaille au Paprika, 529
2086 Mousserons, 636
93 Mousseuse sauce, 40
Mullet, red. _See_ Red mullet
748 Mulligatawny soup, 258
70 Mushroom sauce, 35
Mushrooms. _See_ Champignons
768 Mussels, 262
94 Mustard sauce, 40
299a Mustard sauce with cream, 142
Mutton. _See also_ Sheep
1299 Mutton, baron of, 432
1344 Mutton Cassoulet, 444
1303 Mutton cold joints, large, 433
1345 Mutton, currie de, à l’Indienne, 445
1311 Mutton cutlets, 435
1312 Mutton cutlets à la Champvallon, 436
1314 Mutton cutlets à la Maintenon, 436
1315 Mutton cutlets à la Murillo, 437
1316 Mutton cutlets à la Provençale, 437
1316a Mutton cutlets à la Réforme, 437
1317 Mutton cutlets à la Sévigné, 438
1318 Mutton cutlets à la Suédoise, 438
1319 Mutton cutlets, en Belle Vue, 438
1320 Mutton cutlets, en Chaudfroid, 438
1313 Mutton cutlets, Laura, 436
1346 Mutton, Daube, à l’Avignonnaise, 445
1347 Mutton, Daube cold, 446
1301 Mutton, fillets of, 432
1349 Mutton, Haricot of, 446
1348 Mutton, hashed, 446
1350 Mutton, Irish stew, 447
1329 Mutton, kidneys, 441
1340 Mutton kidneys à la Brochette, 443
1336 Mutton kidneys à l’Indienne, 443
1343 Mutton kidneys, Brochettes of, 444
1341 Mutton kidneys, Brochettes of, à l’Espagnole, 444
1342 Mutton kidneys, Brochette of, Vert-pré, 444
1335 Mutton kidneys, Chasseur, 442
1338 Mutton kidneys, Croûte aux, 443
1337 Mutton kidneys, sautés Turbigo, 443
1330 Mutton kidneys, sautés Bercy, 441
1331 Mutton kidneys, sautés Bordelaise, 441
1332 Mutton kidneys, sautés Carvalho, 442
1334 Mutton kidneys, sautés Hongroise, 442
1333 Mutton kidneys, sautés with Champagne, 442
1339 Mutton kidneys, Turban à la Piémontaise, 443
1307 Mutton, leg of, à la Boulangère, 434
1309 Mutton, leg of, à la Soubise, 435
1305 Mutton, leg of, boiled à l’Anglaise, 433
1306 Mutton, leg of, braised, 434
1310 Mutton, leg of, cold, 435
1300 Mutton, leg or Double, 432
1308 Mutton, leg of, mariné en Chevreuil, 434
1304 Mutton, leg and shoulder, 433
170 Mutton, Marinade for, roebuck style, 68
171 Mutton, Marinade for, with red wine, 68
1348 Mutton, minced, 446
1322 Mutton, minion fillets, 439
1351 Mutton, Moussaka, 447
1353 Mutton, Navarin Printanier, 448
1302 Mutton, neck of, 432
1321 Mutton, Noisettes, 439
1354 Mutton, Pilaw à la Turque, 449
1352 Mutton pudding, 448
1299 Mutton, quarters, pair of hind-, 432
Mutton, Relevés and Entrées, etc., 431 _et seq._
1952 Mutton roasts, 607
1298 Mutton, saddle of, 432
N.
338 Nantua Duchesses, 150
95 Nantua sauce, 40
1353 Navarin Printanier, 448
Navets. _See also_ Turnips
2179 Navets, Purée de, 654
2569 Nectarines, 747
New Year’s Eve dinner, menu for, 842
96 Newburg sauce—first method, 40
97 Newburg sauce—second method, with cooked lobster, 41
Noël, menu de, 1906, 841
2283 Noques au Parmesan, 673
98 Noisette sauce, 42
Noisettes de Chevreuil. _See under_ Chevreuil
1321 Noisettes de Mouton, 439
769 Nonat, 262
1626 Nonnettes de Poulet Agnès Sorel, 516
2291 Noodles, 674
99 Normande sauce, 42
307 Norwegian anchovies, 143
343 Norwegian Duchesses, 151
2466 Norwegian omelet, 727
2648 Nuées roses, 765
351 Nymphes à l’Aurore, 152
O.
2735 Œufs à la Neige, 785
2736 Œufs à la Neige, moulded, 785
2737 Œufs Réjane, Mousselines d’, 785
2184 Oignons, Purée d’, 655
1722b Oison à l’Allemande, 546
1722c Oison à l’Alsacienne, 546
1723 Oison à l’Anglaise, 546
1725 Oison au Raifort, 547
1724 Oison en Civet, 546
366 Olives, plain, 156
367 Olives, stuffed, 156
186 Olives, turned or stoned, 76
494 Omelette à la Bruxelloise, 186
497 Omelette à la Choisy, 187
498 Omelette à la Clamart, 187
501 Omelette à la Fermière, 187
507 Omelette à la Lyonnaise, 188
512 Omelette à la Nantua, 189
514 Omelette à la Paysanne, 189
515 Omelette à la Provençale, 190
517 Omelette à la Rossini, 190
2319 Omelette à l’Écossaise, 682
493 Omelette Agnès Sorel, 186
2463 Omelette apricot, 726
502 Omelette aux fines herbes, 187
2471 Omelette ou Bombe Vésuve, 728
2606 Omelette Célestine, 754
522 Omelette, lapwings’ eggs, with, 191
508 Omelette Maxim, 188
2470 Omelette ou Milady peach, 728
510 Omelette Mousseline, 189
2466 Omelette, Norwegian, 727
513 Omelette Parmentier, 189
2462 Omelette, rum, 726
2465 Omelette, souffléd with vanilla, 726
2471 Omelette surprise à la Napolitaine, 728
2473 Omelette surprise à l’Islandaise, 728
2468 Omelette surprise Chinese, 727
2472 Omelette surprise Elizabeth, 728
2470 Omelette surprise Milady, 728
2467 Omelette surprise My Lord, 727
2469 Omelette surprise with cherries, 727
2474 Omelette, sylphs’, 728
505 Omelette with artichoke bottoms, 188
514 Omelette with asparagus-tops, 190
495 Omelette with Cèpes, 186
504 Omelette with chicken’s livers, 188
2464 Omelette, Christmas, 726
499 Omelette with crusts, 187
2320 Omelette with fine herbs, 682
516 Omelette with kidneys, 190
509 Omelette with morels, 189
511 Omelette with Mousserons, 189
496 Omelette with mushrooms, 186
500 Omelette with spinach, 187
518 Omelette with truffles, 190
503 Omelette with vegetable marrow flowers, 187
506 Omelette with young shoots of hops, 188
2463 Omelets, jam, 726
492 Omelets, preparation of, 186
Omelets, procedure for, 185
Omelets, recipes for, 185–190
Omelets, surprise, 727–29
2475 Omelets, surprise, various, 729
Omelets with Liqueur, 726
815a Ondines aux Crevettes roses, 280
185 Onions, chopped, 76
2182 Onions, fried, 654
2183 Onions, glazed, 654
2184 Onions, Purée of, 655
2184 Onions, Soubise, 655
2181 Onions, stuffed, 654
2634 Opéra, Charlotte, 762
2771 Orange ice, 794
2970 Orange jelly, 827
2959 Orange marmalade, 823
2508 Orange pudding, 736
2412 Orange sauce, 714
2943 Orangeade, 818
2570 Oranges à la Norvégienne, 747
2690 Oranges au blanc-mange, 776
2692 Oranges en Surprise, 777
2691 Oranges, rubannées, 777
2572 Oranges soufflées Righi, 748
2693 Oranges soufflées en Surprise, 777
1401 Oreilles à la Rouennaise, 460
1402 Oreilles à la Sainte Menehould, 460
100 Oriental sauce, 42
2086 Oronges, 636
1933 Ortolans, 603
1976 Ortolans au suc d’Ananas, 614
1975 Ortolans aux Questches, 613
1974 Ortolans, roast, 613
1934 Ortolans, Sylphides of, 604
2185 Oseille, 655
254 Oven roasts, 117
2186 Oxalis, 655
710 Oxalis roots, cream of, 248
137 Oxford sauce, 53
Ox-tail. _See_ Queue de Bœuf
86 Oyster sauce, 39
P.
2322 Paillettes au Parmesan, 683
2090 Pain de Chicorée, 637
1860 Pain de Faisan en belle-vue, 588
1741 Pain de Foie gras, 553
1823 Pain de Lièvre, 577
1285 Pain de Veau, 428
1709 Pain de Volaille, froid, 540
2608 Pain perdu or gilded crust, 755
2657 Pains de Fruit, 768
1246 Palets de Ris de Veau à l’Écarlate, 417
2535 Palmyra Soufflé, 741
190 Panada bread, 78
191 Panada flour, 78
192 Panada frangipan, 78
189 Panadas, various, for stuffings, 77
Pancakes. _See also_ Crêpes
2443 Pancakes, convent, 722
2477 Pancakes à la Crème, 729
2323 Pancakes à la Moscovite, 683
2446 Pancakes à la Normande, 723
2447 Pancakes à la Parisienne, 723
2448 Pancakes à la Paysanne, 723
2449 Pancakes à la Russe, 723
2444 Pancakes Georgette, 722
2445 Pancakes Gil-Blas, 722
2476 Pannequets, jam, with, 729
2478 Pannequets, meringués, 729
2403 Pancakes, preparations for, 711
2450 Pancakes, Suzette, 723
292 Paprika butter, 140
2918 Parfait, 810
1742 Parfait de Foie gras, 553
2322 Parmesan, Paillettes au, 683
187 Parsley, 76
119a Parsley sauce, 47
Partridge, kinds of, 589–90
669 Partridge, Coulis of, 236
1792 Partridge, roast, 613
Partridge, young. _See_ Perdreaux
2372 Paste or Pâte à Baba, 700
2380 Paste or Pâte à Biscuit Manqué, 703
2376 Paste or Pâte, à Génoise fine, 701
2385 Paste or Pâte, almond, 703
2386 Paste or Pâte, almond melting, 704
2369 Paste or Pâte, Brioche Mousseline, 699
2368 Paste or Pâte, Brioche, ordinary, 689
2370 Paste or Pâte, Brioche, ordinary (for Rissoles, etc.), 699
2374 Paste or Pâte à Choux common, 701
2373 Paste or Pâte à Choux ordinary, 701
2359 Paste or Pâte dressing, 695
2360 Paste or Pâte, dressing, with lard, 696
2362 Paste or Pâte, dry sugared, 696
2361 Paste or Pâte, dumpling, 696
2365 Paste or Pâte, Galette, 696
2376 Paste or Pâte, Génoise fine, 701
2377 Paste or Pâte, Génoise, ordinary, for cutting up, 702
2375 Paste or Pâte, Gougère, 701
2357 Paste or Pâte, kneading of, 695
2378 Paste or Pâte, lady’s-finger Biscuit, 702
2383 Paste or Pâte, Meringue à l’Italienne, 703
2384 Paste or Pâte, Meringue à l’Italienne, 703
2382 Paste or Pâte, Meringue, ordinary, 703
2388 Paste or Pâte, pistachio for infusion, 704
2389 Paste or Pâte, pistachio melting, 704
2361 Paste or Pâte, pudding, 696
Paste or Pâte, puddings, 733–35
2366 Paste or Pâte, puff, 697
2367 Paste or Pâte, puff, half-puff, 698
2367 Paste or Pâte, puff-trimmings, 698
2381 Paste or Pâte, punch Biscuit, 703
2375 Paste or Pâte, Ramequins, 701
2371 Paste or Pâte, Savarin, 700
2379 Paste or Pâte, Savoy-Biscuit, 702
2358 Paste or Pâte, short fine or flawn, 695
2356 Paste or Pâte, short ordinary, 695
2363 Paste or Pâte, tea-cakes, for small gummed, 696
Pastes, recipes for, 695–704
1752 Pâté chaud de Caneton, 557
1849 Pâté chaud de Faisan, 586
1241 Pâté chaud de Ris de Veau, 414
1824 Pâté de Lièvre, 577
1714 Pâté de Poulet, 541
374 Pâte, Lark, 158
2392 Patties, small hot, 705
2525 Paulette Soufflé, 739
1019 Paupiettes de Merlan au Gratin, 343
1278 Paupiettes de Veau, 426
1743 Pavé de Foie gras Lucullus, 553
2772 Peach ice, 794
2773 Pear ice, 794
Peas, green. _See also_ Petits Pois
648–49 Peas, Purées of, 230, 231
212 Peas, green, Royale, 88
2195 Peas, green, Saint Germain, 657
2196 Pease Purée, moulded for garnish, 657
2573 Pêches à la Bourdaloue, 748
2574 Pêches à la Condé, 748
2575 Pêches à la Cussy, 748
2701 Pêches à la Sultane, 778
2580 Pêches à la Vanille, 749
2695 Pêches à l’Aurore, 777
2703 Pêches à l’Impératrice, 779
2694 Pêches Aiglon, 777
2696 Pêches Alexandra, 777
2702 Pêches au Château-Laffite, 778
2697 Pêches Cardinal, 778
2698 Pêches Dame Blanche, 778
2576 Pêches flambées, 748
2577 Pêches gratinées, 749
2579 Pêches Maintenon, 749
2699 Pêches Melba, 778
2578 Pêches meringuées, 749
2700 Pêches Petit-Duc, 778
2704 Pêches Rose-Chéri, 779
2705 Pêches Rose-Pompon, 779
770 Perch, 262
1864 Perdreau à la Bourguignonne, 590
Perdreau à la Lautrec, 590
1869 Perdreau aux Choux, 591
669 Perdreau, Coulis de, 236
1870 Perdreau, Crépinettes de, 591
1865 Perdreau en Demi-Deuil, 590
1866 Perdreau en Estouffade, 590
1871 Perdreau, Épigrammes de, 592
1868 Perdreau, Lady Clifford, 591
1872 Perdreau, Timbale de, Diane, 592
1873 Perdreaux froids, 592
47 Périgueux sauce, 29
598 Petite Marmite, 215
958 Petites Mousses de Homard, 324
2188 Petits Pois, 655
2191 Petits Pois à la Bonne Femme, 656
2192 Petits Pois à la Flamande, 656
2193 Petits Pois à la Française, 656
2194 Petits Pois à la Menthe, 657
2189 Petits Pois à l’Anglaise, 656
2190 Petits Pois au beurre, 656
978 Petits soufflés froids d’Écrevisses, 333
1828 Pheasant, 580. _See also_ Faisan
1660 Pie, chicken, 524
1714a Pie, chicken, 542
1653 Pie, giblet, 523
1781 Pie, pigeon, 565
1392 Pie, pork, 457
Pièce de Bœuf. _See under_ Bœuf
1326 Pieds de Mouton Poulette, 440
1327 Pieds de Mouton Rouennaise, 440
1328 Pieds de Mouton Tyrolienne, 441
1404 Pieds de Porc panés, 460
1403 Pieds de Porc truffés, 460
2295 Piémontais, Soufflé, 675
200 Pies, chicken forcemeat for, 81
197 Pies, forcemeat for, 80
201 Pies, game forcemeat for, 82
202 Pies, gratin forcemeat for raised, 82
2605 Pies, mince, 754
2396 Pies, raised, lining and covering of, 707
1781 Pigeon pie, 565
1776 Pigeonneaux à la Bordelaise, 563
1783 Pigeonneaux, Côtelettes de, à la Nesles, 565
1785 Pigeonneaux, Côtelettes de, à la Sévigné, 565
1784 Pigeonneaux, Côtelettes de, en Papillotes, 565
1777 Pigeonneaux en Casserole à la Paysanne, 564
1778 Pigeonneaux en Chartreuse, 564
1780 Pigeonneaux en Compote, 564
1779 Pigeonneaux en Crapaudine, 564
1790 Pigeonneaux, Mousselines de, à l’Épicurienne, 567
1966 Pigeonneaux, rôtis, 611
1786 Pigeonneaux, Suprêmes de, à la Diplomate, 566
1788 Pigeonneaux, Suprêmes de, à la Marigny, 566
1787 Pigeonneaux, Suprêmes de, à la Saint-Clair, 566
1789 Pigeonneaux, Suprêmes de, aux Truffes, 566
1782 Pigeonneaux, Vol-au-vent de, 565
1775 Pigeons and squabs, 563
46 Pignons sauce, 29
1401 Pigs’ ears, à la Rouennaise, 460
1402 Pigs’ ears à la Sainte-Menehould, 460
1404 Pigs’ trotters, panés, 460
1403 Pigs’ trotters, truffled, 460
756 Pike, 261
203 Pike forcemeat for Quenelles, 83
1040 Pike, Quenelles of, à la Lyonnaise, 350
2256 Pilaff rice for fowl, 667
1381 Pilaw d’Agneau, 455
1354 Pilaw de Mouton à la Turque, 449
1678 Pilaw de Volaille, 530
1679 Pilaw de Volaille à la Grecque, 530
1680 Pilaw de Volaille à l’Orientale, 530
1681 Pilaw de Volaille à la Parisienne, 530
1682 Pilaw de Volaille à la Turque, 530
1938 Pilets, 604
1981 Pilets, Rôtis, 614
293 Pimento butter, 141
2197 Pimentos, 657
2198 Pimentos, farcis, 658
2200 Pimentos, Purée de, 658
108 Pinçage, method of, 108
Pine-apple. _See also_ Ananas.
2559 Pine-apple à la Condé, 745
2560 Pine-apple à la Créole, 745
2558 Pine-apple à la Favorite, 745
2670a Pine-apple à la Royale, 772
2669 Pine-apple à la Virginie, 772
2429 Pine-apple, fritters of, “à la Favorite,” 718
2762 Pine-apple ice, 793
2938 Pine-apple water, 817
1774, 1965 Pintade, 563, 611
1938 Pintails, 604
1981 Pintails, roast, 614
48 Piquante sauce, 30
156 Pistachio butter, 58
2754 Pistachio ice-cream, 791
2388 Pistachio paste for infusion, 704
2389 Pistachio paste, melting, 704
2387 Pistachios, 704
1982 Plovers, roast, 615
519 Plovers’ eggs, hot, 191
368 Plovers’ eggs, plain, 156
2774 Plum ices, 794
2960 Plum jam, 823
2486 Plum pudding, 732
1939 Pluviers dorés, 604
1982 Pluviers dorés rôtis, 615
Poached Eggs. _See_ Eggs, poached
849 Poachings, 111
250 Poëlings, 113
2581 Poires à la Bourdaloue, 749
2708 Poires à la Carignan, 779
2582 Poires à la Condé, 749
2710 Poires à la Florentine, 780
2584 Poires à la Parisienne, 750
2586 Poires à la Régence, 750
2718 Poires à la Reine Emma, 781
2716 Poires à la Religieuse, 781
2585 Poires à la Sultane, 750
2583 Poires à l’Impératrice, 749
2706 Poires Alma, 779
2717 Poires au Rhum, 781
2707 Poires Cardinal, 779
2709 Poires Félicia, 780
2711 Poires Hélène, 780
2712 Poires Marquise, 780
2713 Poires Mary-Garden, 781
2714 Poires Melba, 781
2715 Poires pralinées, 781
2587 Poires, Timbale de, à la Valenciennes, 750
2195 Pois frais, Purée de, 657
1208 Poitrine de Veau farcie, 403
50 Poivrade sauce for venison, 30
49 Poivrade sauce, ordinary, 30
2197 Poivrons doux, 657
2294 Polenta, 675
2528 Pomegranate, Soufflé “à l’Orientale,” 740
Pommes. _See also_ Apples
2590 Pommes à la Bonne Femme, 751
2591 Pommes à la Bourdaloue, 751
2593 Pommes à la Châtelaine, 752
2594 Pommes à la Chevreuse, 752
2595 Pommes à la Condé, 752
2598 Pommes à la Moscovite, 752
2599 Pommes à la Parisienne, 753
2600 Pommes à la Portugaise, 753
2719 Pommes à la Royale, 782
2592 Pommes, Charlotte de, 751
2601 Pommes, Douillon Normand, 753
2604 Pommes, Flan de, à la Batelière, 754
2603 Pommes, Flan de, chaud Ninon, 753
2596 Pommes gratinées, 752
2602 Pommes Irène, 753
2597 Pommes meringuées, 752
2601 Pommes, Rabotte de, 753
2206 Pommes de terre à la Boulangère, 659
2209 Pommes de terre à la Crème, 659
2212 Pommes de terre à la Duchesse, 660
2223 Pommes de terre à la Hongroise, 662
2227 Pommes de terre à la Lyonnaise, 663
2230 Pommes de terre à la Maître d’Hôtel, 663
2232 Pommes de terre à la Menthe, 663
2241 Pommes de terre à la Roxelane, 665
2243 Pommes de terre à la Saint-Florentin, 665
2242 Pommes de terre à la Savoyarde, 665
2202 Pommes de terre à l’Anglaise, 658
2203 Pommes de terre Anna, 658
2204 Pommes de terre Anna, for garnishing, 659
2205 Pommes de terre Berny, 659
2207 Pommes de terre Byron, 659
2208 Pommes de terre Château, 659
2216 Pommes de terre Chatouillard, 660
2218 Pommes de terre Collerette, 661
2210 Pommes de terre Croquettes, 660
220 Pommes de terre Dauphine, 92
2211 Pommes de terre à la Dauphine, 660
221 Pommes de terre Duchesse, 93
2212 Pommes de terre à la Duchesse, 660
2213 Pommes de terre Duchesse au Chester, 660
2215 Pommes de terre en Allumettes, 660
2214 Pommes de terre fondantes, 660
2222 Pommes de terre, Gratin de, à la Dauphinoise, 661
2224 Pommes de terre gratinées, 662
2226 Pommes de terre Lorette, 662
2228 Pommes de terre Macaire, 663
2229 Pommes de terre Maire, 663
222 Pommes de terre Marquise, 93
2231 Pommes de terre Marquise, 663
2233 Pommes de terre Mireille, 664
2234 Pommes de terre Mirette, 664
2235 Pommes de terre Mousseline, 664
2247 Pommes de terre Nana, for garnishing, 666
2236 Pommes de terre Noisettes, 664
2219 Pommes de terre Pailles, 661
2237 Pommes de terre Parisienne, 664
2238 Pommes de terre Parmesane, 664
2239 Pommes de terre Persillées, 664
2220 Pommes de terre Pont-Neuf, 661
658 Pommes de terre, Purée of, 232
2249 Pommes de terre, Quenelles de, 666
2240 Pommes de terre Robert, 665
2244 Pommes de terre Schneider, 665
2250 Pommes de terre, Soufflé de, 666
2221 Pommes de terre soufflées, 661
2245 Pommes de terre Suzette, 665
2246 Pommes de terre Voisin, 666
2225 Pommes de terre au lard, 662
1405 Pork, Boudin blanc Ordinaire, 461
1407 Pork, Boudin noir, 461
1409 Pork, Boudin noir à la Flamande, 462
1408 Pork, Boudin noir à l’Anglaise, 462
1411 Pork Crépinettes, à la Cendrillon, 463
1410 Pork Crépinettes Truffled, 462
1393 Pork Cutlets à la Charcutière, 458
1394 Pork Cutlets à la Flamande, 458
1395 Pork Cutlets à la Milanaise, 458
1396 Pork cutlets with Piquante or Robert sauce, 458
1384 Pork fillets, 456
196 Pork forcemeat, 80
1383 Pork, leg of, 456
1400 Pork, leg, stuffed, cold, 459
1399 Pork, leg, stuffed, de Modène, 459
1385 Pork, neck of, 456
1386 Pork, neck, à la Choucroûte, 456
1390 Pork, neck, à la Soissonnaise, 457
1387 Pork, neck, with Brussels sprouts, 456
1388 Pork, neck, with red cabbage, à la Flamande, 456
1389 Pork, neck, with stewed apples, 457
1392 Pork-pie, 457
1953 Pork roasts, 608
1391 Pork, salt, boiled à l’Anglaise, 457
1412 Pork sausages, English, 463
1414 Pork sausages, Frankfort and Strasburg, 463
1413 Pork sausages with white wine, 463
1142 Porterhouse steak, 378
721 Potage à la Diane, 251
715 Potage à l’Aurore, 249
650 Potage Ambassadeurs, 231
725 Potage aux Herbes, 252
716 Potage Bagration gras, 249
717 Potage Bagration maigre, 250
726 Potage Balvet, 252
547 Potage Bortsch, 200
651 Potage Camélia, 231
718 Potage Choiseul, 250
719 Potage Compiègne, 250
556 Potage Croûte au Pot, 203
736 Potage de Santé, 254
720 Potage Derby, 250
722 Potage Elisa, 251
723 Potage Favori, 251
652 Potage Fontanges, 231
724 Potage Germiny, 251–2
726 Potage Jubilee, 252
653 Potage Lamballe, 231
728 Potage Lavallière, 252
654 Potage Longchamps, 231
729 Potage Madeleine, 253
656 Potage Marcilly, 232
655 Potage Marigny, 232
730 Potage Miss Betsy, 253
731 Potage Montespan, 253
732 Potage Nélusko, 253
733 Potage Petit Duc, 253
599 Potage Pot-au-feu, 215
734 Potage Régence, 234
735 Potage Rossolnik, 254
657 Potage Saint-Marceau, 232
611 Potage Sarah Bernhardt, 218
737 Potage Sigurd, 255
738 Potage Solférino, 255
739 Potage Viviane, 255
740 Potage Windsor, 255
725 Potage with herbs, 252
219 Potato Croquettes, 92
1993 Potato salad, 617
1994 Potato salad à la Parisienne, 617
2201 Potatoes, 658. _See also_ Pommes de terre
2217 Potatoes, chipped, 661
2248 Potatoes, mashed, 666
2187 Potatoes, sweet, 655
1451 Poularde à la Beaufort, 477
1687 Poularde à la Carmélite, 531
1693 Poularde à la Rossini, Chaud-froid de, 534
1461 Poularde à la Chivry, 479
1694 Poularde à la Dampierre, 534
1472 Poularde à la Favorite, 482
1473 Poularde à la Fermière, 482
1474 Poularde à la Financière, 482
1475 Poularde à la Gastronome, 483
1476 Poularde à la Godard, 483
1477 Poularde à la Grammont, 483
1480 Poularde à la Grecque, 484
1481 Poularde à la Hongroise, 484
1696 Poularde à la Lambertye, 535
1488 Poularde à la Louisiane, 485
1489 Poularde à la Lucullus, 485
1490 Poularde à la Mancini, 486
1492 Poularde à la Ménagère, 486
1495 Poularde à la Monte Carlo, 487
1494 Poularde à la Montbazon, 487
1496 Poularde à la Montmorency, 487
1497 Poularde à la Nantua, 487
1697 Poularde à la Néva, 535
1500 Poularde à la Parisienne, 488
1502 Poularde à la Paysanne, 488
1503 Poularde à la Périgord, 489
1505 Poularde à la Piémontaise, 489
1506 Poularde à la Portugaise, 489
1700 Poularde à la Saint-Cyr, 536
1449 Poularde à l’Anglaise, 477
1450 Poularde à l’Aurore, 477
1468 Poularde à l’Écossaise, 481
1471 Poularde à l’Estragon, 482
1483 Poularde à l’Indienne, 484
1485 Poularde à l’Ivoire, 485
1498 Poularde à l’Orientale, 487
1501 Poularde Adelina Patti, 488
1445 Poularde Albuféra, 476
1446 Poularde Alexandra, 476
1447 Poularde Ambassadrice, 476
1448 Poularde Andalouse, 477
1688 Poularde au Champagne, 532
1479 Poularde au Gros sel, 484
1527 Poularde au Vert-pré, 495
1513 Poularde au Riz, 491
1453 Poularde aux Céleris, 477
1455 Poularde aux Champignons à blanc, 478
1454 Poularde aux Champignons à brun, 478
1482 Poularde aux Huîtres, 484
1499 Poularde aux Œufs d’or, 488
1452 Poularde bouillie à l’Anglaise, 477
1456 Poularde Chanoinesse, 478
1457 Poularde Châtelaine, 478
1692 Poularde, Chaud-froid de, à la Gounod, 533
1693 Poularde, Chaud-froid de, à la Rossini, 534
1690 Poularde, Chaud-froid de, à l’Écossaise, 533
1691 Poularde, Chaud-froid de, Félix Faure, 533
1458 Poularde Chevalière, 478
1459 Poularde Chimay, 479
1460 Poularde Chipolata, 479
1462 Poularde Cussy, 480
1510 Poularde de la Reine Anne, 490
1464 Poularde Demidoff, 480
1465 Poularde Derby, 480
1467 Poularde Devonshire, 481
1466 Poularde Diva, 480
1469 Poularde Édouard VII, 481
1689 Poularde en Chaud-froid, 532
1463 Poularde en Demi-Deuil, 480
1470 Poularde en Estouffade, 482
1701 Poularde en Terrine à la Gelée, 536
1478 Poularde Grand Hôtel, 483
1484 Poularde Isabelle de France, 484
1486 Poularde Lady Curzon, 485
1487 Poularde Louise d’Orléans, 485
1491 Poularde, Marguerite de Savoie, 486
1493 Poularde Mireille, 487
1504 Poularde Petite Mariée, 489
1507 Poularde Princesse, 489
1508 Poularde Princesse Hélène, 489
1509 Poularde Régence, 490
1510 Poularde Reine Anne, 490
1511 Poularde Reine Margot, 490
1512 Poularde Reine Marguerite, 490
1698 Poularde Rose de Mai, 535
1699 Poularde Rose-Marie, 535
1514 Poularde Rossini, 491
1515 Poularde Sainte-Alliance, 491
1516 Poularde Santa-Lucia, 492
1517 Poularde Sicilienne, 492
1518 Poularde Soufflée, 492
1520 Poularde Souvaroff, 493
1519 Poularde Stanley, 493
1521 Poularde Sylvana, 493
1522 Poularde Talleyrand, 494
1701 Poularde Terrine à la Gelée, 536
1702 Poularde, Terrine de, en Conserve, 537
1523 Poularde Tosca, 494
1524 Poularde Toulousaine, 494
1525 Poularde Trianon, 494
1526 Poularde Valencienne, 495
1528 Poularde Vichy, 495
1529 Poularde Victoria, 495
1530 Poularde Washington, 495
600 Poule au Pot, 215
1695 Poulet à l’Écarlate, 534
1958 Poulet à la Russe, 610
1703 Poulet, Ailerons de, à la Carmélite, 537
1704 Poulet, Ailerons de, Lady Wilmer, 537
1706 Poulet, Aspic de, à la Gauloise, 538
1705 Poulet, Aspic de, à l’Italienne, 537
1623 Poulet, Blanc de, Élisabeth, 515
1628 Poulet, Filets de, à la Saint Germain, 517
1629 Poulet, Filets de, Mireille, 517
1667 Poulet, Fricassée de, à l’Ancienne, 527
1668 Poulet, Fricassée de, aux Écrevisses, 528
1625 Poulet, Mignonnettes de, 516
1626 Poulet, Nonnettes de, Agnès Sorel, 516
1714 Poulet, Pâté de, 541
1546 Poulet, sauté à la Doria, 500
1547 Poulet, sauté à la Durand, 500
1553 Poulet, sauté à la Fermière, 501
1548 Poulet, sauté à l’Égyptienne, 500
1549 Poulet, sauté à l’Espagnole, 500
1550 Poulet, sauté à l’Estragon, 501
1559 Poulet, sauté à l’Indienne, 503
1533 Poulet, sauté Archiduc, 497
1534 Poulet, sauté Arlésienne, 497
1535 Poulet, sauté Armagnac, 497
1552 Poulet, sauté au Fenouil, 501
1541 Poulet, sauté aux Cèpes, 499
1554 Poulet, sauté aux fines Herbes, 502
1569 Poulet, sauté aux Morilles, 505
1576 Poulet, sauté aux Truffes, 506
1537 Poulet, sauté Beaulieu, 498
1539 Poulet, sauté Boivin, 498
1538 Poulet, sauté Bordelaise, 498
1540 Poulet, sauté Bretonne, 499
1542 Poulet, sauté Champeaux, 499
1543 Poulet, sauté Chasseur, 499
1544 Poulet, sauté Cynthia, 499
1536 Poulet, sauté d’Artois, 498
1545 Poulet, sauté Demidoff, 500
1551 Poulet, sauté Fedora, 501
1555 Poulet, sauté Forestière, 502
1556 Poulet, sauté Gabrielle, 502
1557 Poulet, sauté Georgina, 502
1558 Poulet, sauté Hongroise, 502
1560 Poulet, sauté Japonaise, 503
1561 Poulet, sauté Jurassienne, 503
1562 Poulet, sauté Lathuile, 503
1563 Poulet, sauté Lyonnaise, 504
1564 Poulet, sauté Marengo, 504
1566 Poulet, sauté Marseillaise, 504
1565 Poulet, sauté Maryland, 504
1567 Poulet, sauté Mexicaine, 504
1568 Poulet, sauté Mireille, 505
1570 Poulet, sauté Normande, 505
1571 Poulet, sauté Parmentier, 505
1572 Poulet, sauté Piémontaise, 505
1573 Poulet, sauté Portugaise, 506
1574 Poulet, sauté Provençale, 506
1575 Poulet, sauté Stanley, 506
1577 Poulet, sauté Van Dyck, 506
1579 Poulet, sauté Verdi, 507
1578 Poulet, sauté Vichy, 507
1532 Poulets sautés, 495
1624 Poulet, Turban de Filets de, 516
1630 Poulet de Grains à la Belle-Meunière, 518
1631 Poulet de Grains à la Bergère, 518
1640 Poulet de Grains à la Katoff, 520
1641 Poulet de Grains à la Limousine, 520
1639 Poulet de Grains à l’Hôtelière, 520
1638 Poulet de Grains aux Fonds d’Artichauts, 520
1643 Poulet de Grains aux Morilles, 521
1632 Poulet de Grains Bonne Femme, 518
1635 Poulet de Grains Clamart, 519
1633 Poulet de Grains en Casserole, 519
1634 Poulet de Grains en Cocotte, 519
1637 Poulet de Grains grillé à l’Anglaise, 519
1636 Poulet de Grains grillé Diable, 519
1642 Poulet de Grains Mascotte, 520
1644 Poulet de Grains Souvaroff, 521
1645 Poulet de Grains Tartare, 521
101 Poulette sauce, 42
1695 Poulets à l’Écarlate, 534
16 Poultry glaze, 14
1444 Poultry, relevés, manner of serving, quickly and hot, 474
1647 Poussins à la Piémontaise, 521
1648 Poussins à la Polonaise, 521
1649 Poussins à la Tartare, 522
1651 Poussins à la Viennoise, 522
1646 Poussins Cendrillon, 521
1650 Poussins, Tourte de, à la paysanne, 522
1921 Prairie-hens, 602
2352 Pralin, 693
2536 Praliné Soufflé, 741
2755 Pralined ice-cream, 791
979 Prawns, 333
336 Prawns and shrimps, 150
815a Prawns, Ondines with, 280
814 Préparation de la Mousse de Tomates, 279
Preparations, elementary, chapter on, 70–86
1168 Pressed beef, 387
157 Printanier butter, 58
218 Profiterolles for soups, 90
235 Provençale preparation, 96
51 Provençale sauce, 31
121 Provence butter, 48
1922 Ptarmigan, 602
2480 Pudding, almond, 730
2481 Pudding, almond, English, 730
2505 Pudding, souffléd almond with, 735
2487 Pudding, American, 732
2508 Pudding, Anisette, 736
2485 Pudding, apple, 731
2508 Pudding, Bénédictine, 736
2482 Pudding, Biscuit, 730
2499 Pudding, Brazilian, 734
2489 Pudding, bread, English, 733
2490 Pudding, bread, French, 733
2491 Pudding, bread, German, 733
2492 Pudding, bread, Scotch, 733
2483 Pudding, Cabinet, 730
2324 Pudding, cheese, au Pain, 683
2500 Pudding, Chevreuse, 734
2508 Pudding, Curaçao, 736
2442 Pudding, custard, 722
2920 Pudding de Castries, 811
2324 Pudding de Fromage au Pain, 683
2497 Pudding, fresh noodle, 734
2484 Pudding, Fruit, 731
2921 Pudding, Marie-Rose, 811
2488 Pudding, marrow, 732
2922 Pudding, Miramar, 811
1352 Pudding, mutton, 448
2508 Pudding, orange, 736
2486 Pudding, plum, 732
2501 Pudding, rice, 734
2503 Pudding, rice and chocolate, 735
2502 Pudding, rice, English, 735
2517 Pudding, roly-poly, 738
2494, 2498 Pudding, sago, 734
2504 Pudding, Saxon, 735
2495, 2498 Pudding, semolina, 734
2923 Pudding Seymour, 812
1169 Pudding, steak and kidney, 387
2493, 2498 Pudding, Tapioca, 733, 734
2496, 2498 Pudding, vermicelli, 734
1943 Pudding, Yorkshire, 605
Puddings, bread, 733
2479 Puddings, classification of, 729
2658 Puddings, cold, 768. _See also_ Sweets, cold
2659 Puddings, cold, à la Bohémienne, 769
2663 Puddings, cold, à la Nesselrode, 770
2664 Puddings, cold, à la Richelieu, 770
2660 Puddings, cold, Diplomate, 769
1661 Puddings, cold, Diplomate aux fruits, 769
2662 Puddings, cold, Malakoff, 769
2665 Puddings, cold, Reine des Fées, 771
Puddings, fruit, English, 731–33
Puddings, iced, 811–12
2511 Puddings, Mousseline, 737
Puddings, paste, 733–35
2361 Puddings, paste for, 696
2518 Puddings, Rissoles, 738
Puddings, souffléd, 735–42
2512 Puddings, souffléd à la Régence, 737
2513 Puddings, souffléd à la Reine, 737
2514 Puddings, souffléd à la Royale, 737
2516 Puddings, souffléd à la Vésuvienne, 738
2510 Puddings, souffléd chestnut, 737
2506 Puddings, souffléd Denise, 735
2509 Puddings, souffléd Indian, 736
2507 Puddings, souffléd lemon, 736
2515 Puddings, souffléd Sans-Souci, 738
Puddings with cream, 730–31
2366 Puff paste, 697
2367 Puff trimmings, 698
1956 Pullet, truffled, 609
1443 Pullets for Relevés, 473
1955 Pullets to roast, 609
2932 Punch à la Romaine, 815
2381 Punch biscuit, paste for, 703
2947 Punch iced, 819
2946 Punch Marquise, 818
Punch, milk, 222
2944 Punch with kirsch, 818
2175 Purée, chestnut, 653
639 Purée Condé, 228
640 Purée Conti, 228
638 Purée Cormeilles, 227
630 Purée Crécy, 225
2037 Purée d’Artichauts, 626
630 Purée de Carottes, 225
2062 Purée de Carottes, 631
631 Purée de Carottes au Tapioca, 226
2065 Purée de Céleri, 632
632 Purée de Céleri-rave, 226
2067 Purée de Céleri-rave, 633
2079 Purée de Champignons, 635
2091 Purée de Chicorée, 637
633 Purée de Choux de Bruxelles, 226
2119 Purée de Choux de Bruxelles, 643
634 Purée de Choux-fleurs, 226
635 Purée de Crosnes, 226
2131 Purée de Crosnes, 645
2146 Purée de Fèves, 648
636 Purée de Flageolets, 227
637 Purée de Haricots blancs, 227
2154 Purée de Haricots blancs, 649
639 Purée de Haricots rouges, 228
638 Purée de Haricots verts, 227
640 Purée de Lentilles, 228
2167 Purée de Lentilles, 651
2175 Purée de Marrons, 653
2179 Purée de Navets, 654
2184 Purée d’Oignons, 655
643 Purée d’Oseille et de Sagou à la Crème, 229
645 Purée d’Oseille et de Tapioca à la Crème, 229
647 Purée de Pois aux Croûtons, 230
648 Purée de Pois frais, 230
2195 Purée de Pois frais, 657
649 Purée de Pois frais à la Menthe, 231
658 Purée de Pommes de terre, 232
659 Purée de Tomates, 232
2269 Purée de Tomates, 670
660 Purée de Tomates au Tapioca, 233
661 Purée de Topinambours, 233
2273 Purée de Topinambours, 670
634 Purée Dubarry, 226
633 Purée Flamande, 226
641 Purée Freneuse, 228
635 Purée Japonaise, 226
636 Purée Musard, 227
2184 Purée, onion, 655
661 Purée Palestine, 233
658 Purée Parmentier, 232
647 Purée, peas, with Croûtons, 230
2196 Purée, pease, moulded for garnish, 657
2200 Purée, pimentos, 658
659 Purée Portugaise, 232
658 Purée, potato, 232
648 Purée Saint-Germain, 230
637 Purée Soissonnaise, 227
643 Purée, sorel and sago à la Crème, 229
644 Purée, sorel and semolina, à la Crème, 229
645 Purée, sorel and Tapioca, à la Crème, 229
642 Purée, sorel and vermicelli, à la Crème, 229
2131 Purée stachys, 645
641 Purée, turnip, 228
2179 Purée, turnip, 654
631 Purée Velours, 226
660 Purée Waldèze, 233
239 Purées, 99
278 Purées, vegetable, 133
Q.
1883 Quails, 595. _See also_ Cailles
Quails, cold, recipes for, 599–602
2032 Quartiers d’Artichauts à l’Italienne, 625
1040 Quenelles de Brochet à la Lyonnaise, 350
986 Quenelles d’Huîtres à la Reine, 334
2249 Quenelles de Pommes de terre, 666
1658 Quenelles de Volaille d’Uzès, 524
1657 Quenelles de Volaille Morland, 524
194 Quenelles, fine forcemeat for, 79
205 Quenelles, moulding and poaching, 84
203 Quenelles, pike forcemeat for, 83
1160 Queue de Bœuf à la Cavour, 384
1159 Queue de Bœuf à l’Auvergnate, 384
1163 Queue de Bœuf en Hochepot, 386
1162 Queue de Bœuf grillée, 385
596 Queue de Bœuf soup, 214
1161 Queue de Bœuf farcie, 385
2964 Quince jelly, 825
R.
2335 Rabbit, Welsh, 685
1826 Rabbit, wild, 578
668 Rabbit, wild, Coulis of, 235
1968 Rabbit, young, roast, 612
Râble de Lièvre. _See under_ Lièvre
2601 Rabotte de Pommes, 753
376 Radishes for Hors-d’œuvres, 159
1918 Râle de Genêts, 602
2375 Ramequins, 701
2767 Raspberry ice, 793
2416 Raspberry sauce, 714
178 Raspings, 73
140 Ravigote butter, 54
102, 129 Ravigote sauce, 42, 51
2296 Ravioli, 676
2297 Ravioli, preparation of, 676
2156 Red beans, 650
1990 Red cabbage salad, 617
142 Red colouring butter, 55
2411 Red currant sauce, 714
2965–67 Red currant jelly, 825–26
2969 Red currant jelly, prepared cold, 826
2940 Red currant water, raspberry flavoured, 817
286 Red herring butter, 140
Red mullet, 347
1035b Red mullet à la Bordelaise, 348
1035d Red mullet à la Niçoise, 348
379 Red mullet à l’Orientale, 159
1035c Red mullet au fenouil, 348
1035e Red mullet en Papillote, 348
1035a Red mullet, grilled, 347
38a Red wine sauces, remarks on, 27
120 Reform sauce, 47
103 Regency sauce, 42
2433 Regina fritters, 719
Relevés, Entrées and, 352–53
Relevés, garnishing preparations for, 92–96
Relevés, mutton and lamb, for, 431
1443 Relevés, pullets and capons, for, 473
377 Relishes, American, 159
130 Rémoulade sauce, 51
2961 Rhubarb jam, 823
Rice. _See_ Riz
378 Rillettes, 159
378 Rillons, 159
1379 Ris d’Agneau, 454
1218 Ris de Veau, 407
1223 Ris de Veau à la Cévenole, 409
1237 Ris de Veau à la Régence, 413
1244 Ris de Veau à la Richelieu, 416
1245 Ris de Veau à la Suédoise, 416
1239 Ris de Veau à la Toulousaine, 413
1219 Ris de Veau, Attereaux de, à la Villeroy, 407
1236 Ris de Veau aux Queues d’Écrevisses, 412
1221 Ris de Veau Bonne Maman, 409
1220 Ris de Veau, Chartreuse of, 408
1222 Ris de Veau, Crépinette de, 409
1240 Ris de Veau, Croustade de, à la financière, 413
1224 Ris de Veau Demidoff, 409
1235 Ris de Veau des Gourmets, 412
1226 Ris de Veau, Escalopes de, à la Favorite, 410
1229 Ris de Veau, Escalopes de, à la Maréchale, 411
1225 Ris de Veau, Escalopes de, Bérengère, 410
1227 Ris de Veau, Escalopes de, Grand Duc, 410
1228 Ris de Veau, Escalopes de, Judic, 411
1230 Ris de Veau grillés, 411
1231 Ris de Veau grillés Carmago, 411
1232 Ris de Veau grillés Gismonda, 411
1233 Ris de Veau grillés Jocelyne, 412
1234 Ris de Veau grillés Saint-Germain, 412
1246 Ris de Veau, Palets de, à l’Écarlate, 417
1241 Ris de Veau, Pâté chaud de, 414
1238 Ris de Veau sous la Cendre, 413
1242 Ris de Veau, Timbale de, 414
1243 Ris de Veau, Vol-au-vent de, 416
2518 Rissoles, 738
2253 Riz à la Grecque, 667
2740 Riz à la Maltaise, 786
2739 Riz à l’Impératrice, 786
2254 Riz à l’Indienne, 667
2503 Riz and chocolate pudding, 735
2251 Riz au blanc, 666
2252 Riz au gras, 667
711 Riz, cream of, 248
2452 Riz Croquettes, 723
2255 Riz Pilaff, 667
2257 Riz Pilaff à la Turque, 667
2256 Riz Pilaff (for stuffing fowls), 667
2404 Riz, preparation of, for Entremets, 712
2501 Riz pudding, 734
2502 Riz pudding, English, 735
2258 Rizotto à la Piémontaise, 668
1896 Rizotto de Cailles, 597
Roasts, 116–120, 605–23
1942 Roasts, accompaniment of, 605
256 Roasts, dressing and accompaniments, 119
255 Roasts, gravy of, 118
252 Roasts, larding bacon for, 116
254 Roasts, oven, 117
253 Roasts, spitted, 117
52 Robert, sauce, 31
53 Robert sauce (Escoffier), 31
Rognon de Veau. _See under_ Veau
1340 Rognons à la Brochette, 443
1341 Rognons Brochette à l’Espagnole, 444
1342 Rognons Brochette au vert-pré, 444
1343 Rognons, Brochettes de, 444
1338 Rognons, Croûte aux, 443
1661 Rognons de Coq, 525
1662 Rognons de Coq à la Grecque, 525
1664 Rognons de Coq farcis pour Entrées, 526
1666 Rognons de Volaille sauté au Vin rouge, 527
1336 Rognons sautés à l’Indienne, 443
1337 Rognons sautés à la Turbigo, 443
1333 Rognons sautés au Champagne, 442
1330 Rognons sautés Bercy, 441
1331 Rognons sautés Bordelaise, 441
1332 Rognons sautés Carvalho, 442
1335 Rognons sautés Chasseur, 442
1334 Rognons sautés Hongroise, 442
1339 Rognons, Turban de, à la Piémontaise, 443
1918 Roi de Cailles, 602
2517 Roly-poly pudding, 738
Rouennais. _See_ Caneton Rouennais
54 Rouennaise sauce, 31
1035b Rouget à la Bordelaise, 348
1035d Rouget à la Niçoise, 348
1035c Rouget au Fenouil, 348
1035e Rouget en Papillote, 348
19 Roux, brown, 16
20 Roux, pale, 18
21 Roux, white, 18
211 Royale, carrot, 88
208 Royale, chicken, 87
207 Royale, cream, 87
211 Royale, Crécy, 88
214 Royale, dividing up of, 89
210 Royale, fish, 88
212 Royale, fresh peas, 88
209 Royale, game, 88
206 Royale, ordinary, 87
212 Royale, St. Germain, 88
213 Royale, various, 88
2462 Rum omelet, 726
1152 Rump, the, 382
S.
2408 Sabayon, 713
1944 Sage and onion stuffing, 606
2494, 2498 Sago pudding, 734
212 St. Germain Royale, 88
1997 Salade Allemande, 618
1998 Salade Américaine, 618
1999 Salade Andalouse, 618
1986 Salad, beetroot, 616
2000 Salade Belle Fermière, 619
1989 Salad, cauliflower, 617
1988 Salad, celeriac, 617
1987 Salad, celery, 617
1713 Salad, chicken, 541
2001 Salade Cressonnière, 619
331 Salad, cucumber, 149
1991 Salad, cucumber, 617
332 Salad, cucumber and pimento, 149
2003 Salad Danicheff, 619
2004 Salade Demi-Deuil, 619
2005 Salade d’Estrées, 619
2006 Salade à la Flamande, 619
2007 Salade Francillon, 620
1992 Salad, Haricot bean, 617
963 Salade de Homard, 327
2002 Salade Isabelle, 619
2008 Salade Italienne, 620
2009 Salad, Jockey Club, 620
2010 Salade Lacmé, 620
2011 Salade de Légumes, 620
1992 Salad, lentil, 617
963 Salad, lobster, 327
2012 Salade Lorette, 620
2018 Salade Mascotte, 621
2013 Salade Mignon, 621
2014 Salade Monte Cristo, 621
2015 Salade Niçoise, 621
2016 Salade Opéra, 621
2017 Salade Parisienne, 621
1993 Salad, potato, 617
1994 Salad, potato, à la Parisienne
2019 Salade Rachel, 622
1990 Salad, red cabbage, 617
2020 Salade Régence, 622
2021 Salade Russe, 622
810 Salad, Salmon, of, 277
810 Salade de Saumon, 277
2022 Salade Sicilienne, 622
1995 Salad, tomato, 618
2023 Salad Trédern, 622
2024 Salade de Truffes, 622
2025 Salade de Truffes blanches, 622
2026 Salad Victoria, 623
2027 Salad Waldorf, 623
1996 Salads, compound, for roasts, 618
381 Salads for hors-d’œuvres, 159
Salads for roasts, 615–23
1984 Salads for roasts, seasoning of, 615
1985 Salads for roasts, simple, 616
1877 Salmis de Bécasse, 593
1763 Salmis de Caneton à la Rouennaise, 560
1847 Salmis de faisan, 585
55 Salmis sauce, 32
Salmon. _See also_ Saumon
784 Salmon, boiled, 268
785 Salmon, broiled, 268
291 Salmon, smoked, butter, 140
787 Salmon, Cadgerée of, 268
800 Salmon, cold, 273
297 Salmon, smoked, cream, 141
914 Salmon, fillets of, 306
342 Salmon, smoked, Duchesses, 151
385 Salmon, smoked, for Hors-d’œuvres, 160
268 Salmon, ways of preparing, 268
811 Salmon trout, 277
813 Salmon trout, cold, 278
230 Salpicons, various, 95
2262 Salsifis à la Crème, 668
2261 Salsifis sauté, 668
2259 Salsify, 668
2260 Salsify, fried, 668
188 Salt, 77
1165 Salt beef, 386
1167 Salt beef, cold, 387
1941 Sandpipers, 604
1982 Sandpipers, roast, 615
2336 Sandwiches, 685
2337 Sandwiches, Bookmaker, 685
1809 Sanglier, 572
1937 Sarcelles, 604
1981 Sarcelles rôties, 614
772 Sardines, 262
2325 Sardines à la Diable, 683
380 Sardines for Hors-d’œuvres, 159
121 Sauce, Aïoli, 48
119 Sauce, Albert, 47
87 Sauce, Albuféra, 39
27 Sauce, Allemande, 21
58 Sauce, American, 33
59 Sauce, anchovy, 33
122 Sauce, Andalouse, 48
112 Sauce, apple, 45
2410 Sauce, apricot, 714
60 Sauce, Aurore, 33
61 Sauce, Aurore (Lenten), 33
62 Sauce, Béarnaise, 33
64 Sauce, Béarnaise tomatée, 34
63 Sauce, Béarnaise with meat glaze, 34
28 Sauce, Béchamel, 21
65 Sauce, Bercy, 34
31 Sauce, Bigarrade, 24
123 Sauce, Bohemian, 48
67 Sauce, Bonnefoy, 34
32 Sauce, Bordelaise, 25
67 Sauce, Bordelaise, white, 34
113 Sauce, bread, 45
24 Sauce, brown, Lenten, 19
22 Sauce, brown or Espagnole, 18
66 Sauce, butter, 34
133 Sauce, Cambridge, 52
68 Sauce, caper, 35
69 Sauce, Cardinal, 35
114 Sauce, celery, 46
33 Sauce, Chasseur (Escoffier), 25
71 Sauce, Châteaubriand, 35
74 Sauce, Chaudfroid, à l’Aurore, 36
75 Sauce, Chaudfroid, au Vert-pré, 36
34 Sauce, Chaudfroid, brown, 25
76 Sauce, Chaudfroid, Lent, 36
73 Sauce, Chaudfroid, ordinary, 36
35 Sauce, Chaudfroid, varieties of, 26
72 Sauce, Chaudfroid, white, 35
2415 Sauce, cherry, 714
2613 Sauce, cherry, 757
77 Sauce, cherry (Escoffier), 37
78 Sauce, Chivry, 37
2407 Sauce, chocolate, 713
64 Sauce, Choron, 34
115 Sauce, cranberry, 46
79 Sauce, cream, 37
134 Sauce, Cumberland, 52
81 Sauce, curry, 37
36 Sauce, devilled, 26
37 Sauce, devilled (Escoffier), 26
82 Sauce, Diplomate, 38
118 Sauce, egg, Scotch, 46
117 Sauce, egg, with melted butter, 46
2406 Sauce, English, 713
116 Sauce, fennel, 46
63 Sauce Foyot, 34
2409 Sauce, Fruit, 713
38 Sauce, Genevoise, 26
124 Sauce, Genoa, 48
135 Sauce, Gloucester, 52
84 Sauce, gooseberry, 38
39 Sauce, Grand Veneur, 28
131 Sauce, green, 51
2414 Sauce, greengage, 714
125 Sauce, Gribiche, 49
2413 Sauce, hazel-nut, 714
83 Sauce, herb, 38
30 Sauce, Hollandaise, 22
119 Sauce, horse-radish, 47
138 Sauce, horse-radish, 53
85 Sauce, Hungarian, 38
40 Sauce, Italian, 28
87 Sauce, ivory, 39
88 Sauce, Joinville, 39
43 Sauce, Lyonnaise, 29
44 Sauce, Madeira, 29
89 Sauce, Maltese, 39
90 Sauce, Marinière, 39
45 Sauce, marrow, 29
126 Sauce, Mayonnaise, 49
127 Sauce, Mayonnaise, cleared, 50
128 Sauce, Mayonnaise, whisked, 50
136 Sauce, mint, 52
2414 Sauce, Mirabelle, 714
91 Sauce, Mornay, 39
92 Sauce, Mousseline, 40
93 Sauce, Mousseuse, 40
70 Sauce, mushroom, 35
94 Sauce, mustard, 40
299a Sauce, mustard, with cream, 142
95 Sauce, Nantua, 40
96 Sauce, Newburg, 1st method, 40
97 Sauce, Newburg, 2nd method, with cooked lobster, 41
98 Sauce, Noisette, 42
99 Sauce, Normande, 42
2412 Sauce, orange, 714
100 Sauce, Oriental, 42
137 Sauce, Oxford, 53
86 Sauce, oyster, 39
119a Sauce, parsley, 47
47 Sauce, Périgueux, 29
46 Sauce, Pignons, 29
48 Sauce, Piquante, 30
50 Sauce, Poivrade, for venison, 30
49 Sauce, Poivrade, ordinary, 30
101 Sauce, Poulette, 42
51 Sauce, Provençale, 31
2416 Sauce, raspberry, 714
102 Sauce, Ravigote, 42
129 Sauce, Ravigote, 51
2411 Sauce, red-currant, 714
120 Sauce, Reform, 47
103 Sauce, Regency, 42
130 Sauce, Rémoulade, 51
52 Sauce, Robert, 31
53 Sauce, Robert (Escoffier), 31
54 Sauce, Rouennaise, 31
2408 Sauce, Sabayon, 713
55 Sauce, Salmis, 32
80 Sauce, shrimp, 37
104 Sauce, Soubise, 43
106 Sauce, Soubise, tomatée, 43
105 Sauce, Soubise, with rice, 43
2417 Sauce, strawberry, 714
106a Sauce, Suprême, 44
41 Sauce, thickened gravy, 28
29 Sauce, tomato, 22
56 Sauce, Tortue, 32
63 Sauce, Valois, 34
42 Sauce, veal gravy, tomatée, 28
26 Sauce, Velouté de Volaille, 20
26a Sauce, Velouté, fish, 20
25 Sauce, Velouté, ordinary, 20
107 Sauce, Venetian, 44
57 Sauce, venison, 32
108 Sauce, Villeroy, 44
109 Sauce, Villeroy, Soubisée, 44
110 Sauce, Villeroy, Tomatée, 44
129 Sauce, Vinaigrette, 51
132 Sauce, Vincent, 51
111 Sauce, white wine, 45
Sauces, brown, the small, 24–33
Sauces, cold, 48–58
2612 Sauces, to accompany cold sweets, 756
Sauces, compound, the small, 24–47
Sauces, English cold, 52–3
Sauces, English hot, 45–7
Sauces, suited for Entrées of butcher’s meat, 364
Sauces, foundation, 2
Sauces, hot, for Entremets, 713–4
Sauces, hot, for sweets, 713–4
38a Sauces, red-wine, remarks on, 27
Sauces, warm, leading, 15–23
Sauces, white, the small, 33–47
1412 Saucisses Anglaises, 463
1413 Saucisses au Vin blanc, 463
1414 Saucisses de Francfort et de Strasbourg, 463
2097 Sauerkraut, 639
786 Saumon à la Meunière, 268
806 Saumon froid à la Norvégienne, 275
802 Saumon froid à la Parisienne, 274
803 Saumon froid à la Riga, 274
801 Saumon froid à la Royale, 274
805 Saumon froid au Chambertin, 275
807 Saumon froid, Côtelettes de, 276
804 Saumon froid en Belle-Vue, 275
788 Saumon, Côtelettes de, 269
789 Saumon, Coulibiac de, 269
790 Saumon, Darne de, à Chambord, 270
791 Saumon, Darne de, à Daumont, 271
792 Saumon, Darne de, à Lucullus, 271
793 Saumon, Darne de, à Nesselrode, 271
794 Saumon, Darne de, à Régence, 272
795 Saumon, Darne de, à Royale, 272
796 Saumon, Darne de, à Valois, 272
914 Saumon, Fillets of, Paupiettes of, 306
809 Saumon, Mayonnaise de, 277
808 Saumon, Médaillons de, 276
797 Saumon, Mousseline de, 272
799 Saumon, Mousseline de, à la Tosca, 273
798 Saumon, Mousseline de, Alexandra, 272
810 Saumon, Salade de, 277
383 Sausages, Arles, 160
383 Sausages, Bologne, 160
384 Sausages, Foie-gras, 160
383 Sausages, Lyon, 160
Sausages, pork. _See under_ Pork
1380 Sauté d’Agneau printanier, 455
1848 Sauté de Faisan, 586
Sautés, chapter on, 115
Sautés de Veau. _See under_ Veau
2371 Savarin paste, 700
Savouries, Recipes for, 678–86
2298 Savouries, Remarks upon, 678
2379 Savoy biscuit paste, 702
2504 Saxon pudding, 735
2610 Schaleth à la Juive, 755
2492 Scotch bread pudding, 733
118 Scotch egg sauce, 46
2107 Scotch-kale, 641
2326 Scotch Woodcock, 683
Scrambled eggs. _See_ Eggs, scrambled
2120 Sea-kale, 643
1746 Seasoning and condiments, 71
1360 Selle d’Agneau de Lait Édouard VII, 449
Selle de Veau. _See under_ Veau
2495, 2498 Semolina pudding, 734
753 Shad, 261
146 Shallot butter, 56
180 Shallots, 74
329c Sheep’s brains à la Robert, 149
1323 Sheep’s tongues, 439
1324 Sheep’s trotters, 439
1325 Sheep’s trotters, Fritôt of, 440
1326 Sheep’s trotters, Poulette, 440
1327 Sheep’s trotters, Rouennaise, 440
1328 Sheep’s trotters, Tyrolienne, 441
Sherbets. _See_ Sorbets
145 Shrimp butter, 56
283 Shrimp butter, 139
80 Shrimp sauce, 37
319 Shrimp toast, 146
979 Shrimps, 333
336 Shrimps and prawns, 150
664 Shrimps, Bisque of, 234
1141 Sirloin of beef, 377
771 Skate, 262
Small compound sauces, 24–47
1002 Smelt, 338
346 Smelts, marinaded, 151
308 Smoked eel, 143
Snipe. _See also_ Bécassines.
1882 Snipe, cold, 595
1978 Snipe, roast, 614
823 Sole à la Daumont, 283
828 Sole à la Fermière, 284
829 Sole à la Hollandaise, 284
842 Sole à la Meunière, 287
851 Sole à la Provençale, 288
853 Sole à la Royale, 289
854 Sole à la Russe, 289
818 Sole Alice, 281
852 Sole Arlésienne, 289
834 Sole au Chambertin, 285
821 Sole au Champagne, 282
833 Sole au gratin, 285
859 Sole au Vin Blanc, 290
841 Sole aux Huîtres, 287
862 Sole Bonne Femme, 291
822 Sole Colbert, 282
840 Sole Cubat, 287
860 Sole Dieppoise, 291
861 Sole Diplomate, 291
824 Sole Dorée, 283
843 Sole Doria, 287
825 Sole Dugléré, 283
879 Sole, Filets de, à la Hongroise, 296
920 Sole, Filets de, à la Moscovite, 309
865 Sole, Filets de, Américaine, 292
867 Sole, Filets de, Andalouse, 293
866 Sole, Filets de, Anglaise, 292
915, 916 Sole, Filets de, Aspic, 307, 308
871 Sole, Filets de, aux Champignons, 294
872 Sole, Filets de, aux Crevettes, 294
888 Sole, Filets de, aux Huîtres, 299
874 Sole, Filets de, Bercy, 294
917 Sole, Filets de, Bordure de, à l’Italienne, 308
918 Sole, Filets de, Calypso, 309
868 Sole, Filets de, Caprice, 293
869 Sole, Filets de, Catalane, 293
919 Sole, Filets de, Charlotte, 309
873 Sole, Filets de, Chauchat, 294
870 Sole, Filets de, Clarence, 294
922 Sole, Filets de, cold, on Mousses, 310
875 Sole, Filets de, Déjazet, 295
921 Sole, Filets de, Dominos de, 310
897 Sole, Filets de, en Pilaw à la Levantine, 301
922 Sole, Filets de, froids, dressés sur Mousses, 310
876 Sole, Filets de, Grand Duc, 295
877 Sole, Filets de, Joinville, 295
878 Sole, Filets de, Judic, 296
880 Sole, Filets de, Lady Egmont, 296
882 Sole, Filets de, Marie-Stuart, 297
881 Sole, Filets de, Marinette, 297
885 Sole, Filets de, Mexicaine, 298
886 Sole, Filets de, Mirabeau, 298
887 Sole, Filets de, Miramar, 298
883 Sole, Filets de, Mignonnette, 297
884 Sole, Filets de, Mimi, 297
889 Sole, Filets de, Nelson, 299
890 Sole, Filets de, Newburg, 299
894 Sole, Filets de, Olga, 300
891 Sole, Filets de, Orientale, 299
893 Sole, Filets de, Orly, 300
894 Sole, Filets de, Otero, 300
914 Sole, Filets de, Paupiettes de, 306
896 Sole, Filets de, Paysanne, 300
892 Sole, Filets de, Persane, 299
895 Sole, Filets de, Polignac, 300
898 Sole, Filets de, Pompadour, 301
899 Sole, Filets de, Rachel, 301
909 Sole, Filets de, Timbale de, Cardinal, 304
912 Sole, Filets de, Timbale de, Carême, 305
910 Sole, Filets de, Timbale de, Carmélite, 304
911 Sole, Filets de, Timbale de, Grimaldi, 305
913 Sole, Filets de, Timbale de, Marquise, 306
907 Sole, Filets de, Turban de, à la Villaret, 303
908 Sole, Filets de, Turban de, et Saumon Villaret, 304
900 Sole, Filets de, Vénitienne, 301
901 Sole, Filets de, Verdi, 302
903 Sole, Filets de, Véronique, 302
902 Sole, Filets de, Victoria, 302
904 Sole, Filets de, Walewska, 302
905 Sole, Filets de, Wilhelmine, 303
871 Sole, Filets de, with mushrooms, 294
888 Sole, Filets de, with oysters, 299
872 Sole, Filets de, with shrimps, 294
831 Sole Florentine, 284
826 Sole grillée, 283
827 Sole grillée aux Huîtres à l’Américaine, 283
849 Sole Lutèce, 288
857 Sole Marguery, 290
858 Sole Marinière, 290
848 Sole Meunière à l’Orange, 288
844 Sole Meunière aux Aubergines, 287
845 Sole Meunière aux Cèpes, 287
843 Sole Meunière aux Concombres, 287
846 Sole Meunière aux Morilles, 287
847 Sole Meunière aux Raisins, 288
836 Sole Montgolfier, 285
832 Sole Montreuil, 284
819 Sole Mornay, 282
820 Sole, Mornay des Provençaux, 282
906 Sole, Mousseline de, 303
850 Sole Murat, 288
864 Sole Nantua, 292
856 Sole Normande, 290
863 Sole Parisienne, 292
839 Sole Portugaise, 286
838 Sole Régence, 286
855 Sole Richelieu, 289
830 Sole Saint-Germain, 284
837 Sole sur le plat, 286
837 Sole sur le plat au Chambertin, etc., 286
Soles, 281
835 Soles aux grands Vins, 285
2929 Sorbet à la Sicilienne, 814
2926 Sorbets, 813
2927 Sorbets preparation for, 813
2928 Sorbets various, 814
2185 Sorrel, 655
708 Sorrel, cream of, à l’Avoine, 247
709 Sorrel, cream of, à l’Orge, 248
642–5 Sorrel, Purées of, 229
104 Soubise sauce, 43
106 Soubise tomatée, 43
105 Soubise with rice, 43
2103 Sou-fassum, 641
2519 Soufflé, 739
2524 Soufflé à la Camargo, 739
2534 Soufflé à la d’Orléans, 740
2538 Soufflé à la Royale, 741
2521 Soufflé, almond, 739
2522 Soufflé, almonds with fresh, 739
2295a Soufflé au Parmesan, 676
2139 Soufflé aux Épinards, 647
2140 Soufflé aux Épinards, aux Truffes, 647
1771 Soufflé de Caneton, froid, à l’orange, 562
1764 Soufflé de Caneton Rouennais, 560
2092 Soufflé de Chicorée, 638
972 Soufflé d’Écrevisses à la Florentine, 330
974 Soufflé d’Écrevisses à la Piémontaise, 330
973 Soufflé d’Écrevisses Léopold de Rothschild, 330
1851 Soufflé de Faisan, 587
1731 Soufflé de Foie gras, 550
1425 Soufflé de Jambon Alexandra, 468
1426 Soufflé de Jambon Carmen, 468
1427 Soufflé de Jambon Gastronome, 468
1428 Soufflé de Jambon Milanaise, 468
1429 Soufflé de Jambon Périgourdine, 468
2165 Soufflé de Laitues, 651
1820 Soufflé de Lièvre, 575
Soufflé de Maïs. _See_ Maïs
1033 Soufflé de Morue, 346
2270 Soufflé de Tomate à la Napolitaine, 670
1686 Soufflé de Volaille à la Périgord, 531
1685 Soufflé de Volaille with cooked meat, 531
1684 Soufflé de Volaille with raw meat, 531
2523 Soufflé with filbert, 739
2520 Soufflé, Fruit, in a Croustade, 739
2533 Soufflé Hilda, 740
2924 Soufflé, iced, 812
2925 Soufflé, iced, moulding of, 812
2529 Soufflé Java, 740
2530 Soufflé Lérina, 740
2531 Soufflé with Liqueur, 740
2532 Soufflé Lucullus, 740
2572 Soufflé, orange, Righi, 748
2535 Soufflé Palmyre, 741
2295a Soufflé Parmesan, 676
2525 Soufflé Paulette, 739
2295 Soufflé Piémontais, 675
2528 Soufflé, pomegranate, à l’Orientale, 740
2536 Soufflé praliné, 741
2405 Soufflé preparation, 712
2537 Soufflé Rothschild, 741
2527 Soufflé, strawberry, 740
2572 Soufflé, tangerine, Righi, 748
2539 Soufflé, vanilla, 741
2540 Soufflé, violet, 741
Souffléd fritters, 718
Souffléd omelets, 726–7
Souffléd puddings, 735–42
1422 Soufflés au Jambon, 467
952 Soufflés de Homard, 321
2250 Soufflés de Pommes de terre, 666
1683 Soufflés de Volaille, 531
2693 Soufflées, oranges, en Surprise, 777
743 Soup, Cocky-leeki, 256
748 Soup, Mulligatawny, 258
596 Soup, Ox-tail, 214
614 Soup, Turtle, 219–22
216 Soup, with pastes, 90
750 Soupe à la Paysanne, 259
751 Soupe à la Bonne Femme, 259
741 Soupe aux Abatis de Volaille à l’Anglaise, 256
742 Soupe aux Cerises, 256
744 Soupe aux Foies de Volaille, 257
749 Soupe aux Gombos, 258
751 Soupe aux Poireaux et Pommes de terre, 259
752 Soupe, aux Rognons, 259
745 Soupe, Julienne Darblay, 257
747 Soupe, Mille-Fanti, 258
746 Soupe, Minestrone, 257
749 Soupe, Okra, 258
Soups. _See_ Bisque, Consommé, Coulis, Cream, Crème,
Purée, Soup _and_ Velouté
241 Soups, Bisques, 100
2 Soups, Classification of, 98–103, 197–8
237 Soups, clear, 98, 198–225
Soups, clear, clarified Consommé for, 5
Soups, Consommés garnished, 198–225
244 Soups, Consommés thickened, 102
243 Soups, Creams, 102
240 Soups, Cullises, 100
246 Soups, foreign, 103
Soups, garnishes for, 87–91
236 Soups, preparation of, 97
218 Soups, Profiterolles for, 90
239 Soups, Purées, 99
244 Soups, special, 102
238 Soups, thick, 99
Soups, thick, recipes for, 225–59
245 Soups, vegetable, 102
242 Soups, Veloutés, 101
1637 Spatchcock, 519
181 Spices, 74
2132 Spinach, 645. _See also_ Épinards
253 Spitted roasts, 117
2933 Spooms, 815
386 Sprats for Hors-d’œuvres, 160
2044 Sprew with butter, 628
1957 Spring chickens, 610. _See also_ Poulet de grains
1966 Squabs, 611
2126 Stachys, 645
2127 Stachys à la Crème, 645
2129 Stachys, au Velouté, 645
2130 Stachys, Croquettes de, 645
635 Stachys, Purée de, 226
2131 Stachys, Purée de, 645
2128 Stachys, sautés au Beurre, 645
1170 Steak pudding, 388
1169 Steak and kidney pudding, 387
1171 Steak and oyster pudding, 388
773 Sterlet, 262
1164 Stewed steaks and onions, 386
7 Stock, brown, 9
11 Stock, fish, white, 11
12 Stock, fish, with red wine, 12
Stock, foundation, 2
8 Stock, game, brown, 10
9 Stock, veal, brown, 10
10 Stock, veal, white, 10
186 Stoned olives, 76
Strawberries. _See_ Fraises
2421 Strawberry Fritters, 715
2766 Strawberry Ice, 793
2958 Strawberry Jam, 822
2417 Strawberry Sauce, 714
2527 Strawberry Soufflé, 740
1944 Stuffing, sage and onion, 606
1945 Stuffing, veal, 606
Stuffings, 77–86
204 Stuffings, fish, special for, 83
189 Stuffings, various panadas for, 77
759 Sturgeon, 261
2541 Subrics, 741
2137 Subrics d’Épinards, 646
1397 Sucking pig, 459
1398 Sucking pig, roast, stuffed à l’Anglaise, 459
2346a Sucre en Glace, 692
2471 Suédoise of Fruit, 786
1166 Suet dumpling, 386
2344 Sugar, cooking of, 690
2347 Sugar grains, 692
2348 Sugar grains, coloured, 692
2346a Sugar, icing, 692
2349 Sugar, vanilla, 693
2353 Sultanas, 694
Supper, menus for, 844–47
6 Suppers, Consommés for, 8
2609 Suprême de Fruit à la Gabrielle, 755
106a Suprême sauce, 44
Suprêmes. _See under various heads_
Surprise omelet. _See_ Omelet
2450 Suzette pancakes, 723
Sweetbread. _See_ Ris
Sweets, hot sauces for, 713–14
Sweets, recipes, 687–787
Sweets, various preparations, 711–13
Sweets, cold, 756–815
Sweets, cold, Bavarois. _See_ Bavarois
2720 Sweets, cold, Biscuit à la Reine, 782
Sweets, cold, Blanc-manger, 759–60. _See also_ Blanc-mange
Sweets, cold, Charlottes, 761–63
Sweets, cold, creams, 763 _et seq._
2721 Sweets, cold, Croûte à la Mexicaine, 782
2722 Sweets, cold, Diplomate aux fruits, 782
2726 Sweets, cold, Eugenia, Italian cream, 783
2742 Sweets, cold, Fraisalia Timbale, 786
Sweets, cold, Fruit Entremets, 771 _et seq._
2723 Sweets, cold, Ile Flottante, 782
Sweets, cold, jellies, 765–68
2725 Sweets, cold Macédoine of cooled Fruit, 783
2727 Sweets, cold, Marquise Alice, 783
2728 Sweets, cold, Melon à l’Orientale, 784
2730 Sweets, cold, Melon en surprise, 784
2729 Sweets, cold, Melon frappé, 784
2731 Sweets, cold, Meringues garnished, 784
2724 Sweets, cold, milk junket, 783
2732 Sweets, cold, Mont-Blanc aux Fraises, 784
2733 Sweets, cold, Mont-Blanc aux Marrons, 785
2734 Sweets, cold, Mont-Rose, 785
2738 Sweets, cold, Mousseline of eggs Mimi, 786
2737 Sweets, cold, Mousseline of eggs Réjane, 785
2735 Sweets, cold, Œufs à la Neige, 785
2736 Sweets, cold, Œufs à la Neige, moulded, 785
2740 Sweets, cold, rice à la Maltaise, 786
2739 Sweets, cold, rice à l’Impératrice, 786
2612 Sweets, cold, sauces and accompaniments of, 756
2741 Sweets, cold, Suédoise of Fruit, 786
2743 Sweets, cold, Tivoli aux Fraises, 787
Sweets, hot, fruit, 743–45
Sweets, hot, recipes, 715–18
1934 Sylphides d’Ortolans, 604
1676 Sylphides de Volaille, 529
2474 Sylphs’ omelet, 728
2431 Sylvana fritters, 719
2418 Syrups, thickened, 714
T.
2769, 2791 Tangerine ice, 794, 797
2792 Tangerine ice aux Perles des Alpes, 797
2572 Tangerine soufflée Righi, 748
Tangerines. _See_ Mandarines
2493, 2498, Tapioca pudding, 733, 734
148 Tarragon butter, 56
2328 Tartelettes à l’Écossaise, 684
2330 Tartelettes à la Florentine, 684
2332 Tartelettes à la Raglan, 684
2333 Tartelettes à la Tosca, 684
2334 Tartelettes à la Vendôme, 684
2327 Tartelettes Agnès, 683
2328, 2329 Tartelettes de haddock, 684
2077 Tartelettes grillées aux Champignons, 635
387 Tartelettes, Hors-d’œuvres, 160
2331 Tartelettes, Marquise, 684
2611 Tarts, English, 756
2756 Tea ice cream, 791
1937 Teal, 604
1981 Teal, roast, 614
1272 Tendrons de Veau, 424
1772 Terrine de Caneton à la Gelée, 562
1863 Terrine de Faisan, 589
1825 Terrine de Lièvre, 578
1702 Terrine de Poularde en Conserve, 537
200 Terrines, chicken forcemeat for, 81
197 Terrines, forcemeat for, 80
201 Terrines, game forcemeat for, 82
1209 Tête de Veau, 404
1210 Tête de Veau à l’Anglaise, 404
1211 Tête de Veau à la Financière, 404
1212 Tête de Veau à la Poulette, 405
1214 Tête de Veau à la Vinaigrette, 405
1213 Tête de Veau en Tortue, 405
41 Thickened gravy, 28
217 Threaded eggs, 90
Thrushes. _See_ Grives.
2542 Timbale à la d’Aremberg, 742
2547 Timbale à la Favart, 743
2546 Timbale à la Parisienne, 743
2543 Timbale Bourdaloue, 742
2394 Timbale crust, 706
Timbale de Bécasse. _See_ Bécasse
1900 Timbale de Cailles Alexandra, 598
1915 Timbale de Cailles Tzarine, 601
1773 Timbale de Caneton à la Voisin, 563
909 Timbale de Filets de Soles Cardinal, 304
912 Timbale de Filets de Soles Carême, 305
910 Timbale de Filets de Soles Carmélite, 304
911 Timbale de Filets de Soles Grimaldi, 305
913 Timbale de Filets de Soles Marquise, 306
Timbale de Foie gras. _See under_ Foie gras
1872 Timbale de Perdreau Diane, 592
971 Timbale de Queues d’écrevisses à la Nantua, 329
1242 Timbale de Ris de Veau, 414
2279 Timbale de Truffes, 671
2544 Timbale Marie-Louise, 742
2545 Timbale Montmorency, 742
2743 Tivoli aux Fraises, 787
317 Toast, anchovy, 145
318 Toast, caviare, 146
320 Toast, City, 146
322 Toast, crayfish, 146
321 Toast, Danish, 146
324 Toast, Lucile, 147
2304 Toast, savoury, 679
319 Toast, shrimp, 146
323 Toast, tongue, 146
42 Tomaté veal gravy, 28
Tomates. _See_ Tomatoes
2962 Tomato jam, 824
2972, 2973 Tomato jelly, 827
1995 Tomato salad, 618
29 Tomato sauce, 22
392 Tomatoes à la Monégasque, 162
391 Tomatoes à l’Américaine, 162
Tomatoes farcis. _See_ Tomatoes, stuffed
2263 Tomatoes, grilled, 669
390 Tomatoes, mock, 162
814 Tomatoes, Mousse of, 279
659, 660, 2269 Tomatoes, Purée of, 232, 233, 670
393 Tomatoes, quartered, 162
2268 Tomatoes, sautées à la Provençale, 670
2270 Tomatoes, soufflé de, à la Napolitaine, 670
2264 Tomatoes, stuffed, 669
2267 Tomatoes, stuffed à la Portugaise, 669
2266 Tomatoes, stuffed, à la Provençale, 669
2265 Tomatoes, stuffed, au gratin, 669
334 Tongue cones, 150
323 Tongue toast, 146
Topinambours. _See also_ Artichokes, Jerusalem
2271 Topinambours à l’Anglaise, 670
2272 Topinambours frits, 670
661 Topinambours, Purée de, 233
2273–74 Topinambours, Purée de, 670
56 Tortue sauce, 32
1076 Tournedos, 362
1094 Tournedos à la Florentine, 368
1108 Tournedos à la Ménagère, 370
1109 Tournedos à la Mexicaine, 371
1114 Tournedos à la Moelle, 372
1118 Tournedos à la Niçoise, 373
1129 Tournedos à la Sarde, 375
1092 Tournedos à l’Estragon, 367
1078 Tournedos Alsacienne, 364
1077 Tournedos Algérienne, 364
1079 Tournedos Arlésienne, 365
1088 Tournedos aux Champignons, 366
1117 Tournedos aux Morilles, 373
1080 Tournedos Baltimore, 365
1081 Tournedos Béarnaise, 365
1082 Tournedos Belle-Hélène, 365
1083 Tournedos Bercy, 365
1084 Tournedos Bordelaise, 365
1085 Tournedos Brabançonne, 366
1086 Tournedos Castillane, 366
1087 Tournedos Cendrillon, 366
1089 Tournedos Chasseur, 366
1090 Tournedos Choron, 367
1091 Tournedos Coligny, 367
1093 Tournedos Favorite, 367
1095 Tournedos Forestière, 368
1096 Tournedos Gabrielle, 368
1097 Tournedos Henri IV, 368
1098 Tournedos Judic, 368
1099 Tournedos Lakmé, 369
1100 Tournedos Lesdiguières, 369
1101 Tournedos Lili, 369
1102 Tournedos Lucullus, 369
1103 Tournedos Madeleine, 369
1104 Tournedos Maréchale, 370
1105 Tournedos Marie-Louise, 370
1106 Tournedos Mascotte, 370
1107 Tournedos Masséna, 370
1110 Tournedos Mikado, 371
1111 Tournedos Mirabeau, 371
1112 Tournedos Mireille, 371
1113 Tournedos Mirette, 372
1115 Tournedos Montgomery, 372
1116 Tournedos Montpensier, 372
1119 Tournedos Ninon, 373
1120 Tournedos Parmentier, 373
1121 Tournedos Persane, 373
1122 Tournedos Péruvienne, 374
1123 Tournedos Piémontaise, 374
1124 Tournedos Provençale, 374
1125 Tournedos Rachel, 374
1126 Tournedos Rossini, 374
1127 Tournedos Roumanille, 375
1128 Tournedos Saint Mandé, 375
1130 Tournedos Soubise, 375
1131 Tournedos Tivoli, 375
1132 Tournedos Tyrolienne, 376
1133 Tournedos Valençay, 376
1134 Tournedos Valentino, 376
1135 Tournedos Vert-pré, 376
1136 Tournedos Victoria, 376
1137 Tournedos Villaret, 376
1139 Tournedos Villemer, 377
1138 Tournedos Villeneuve, 377
1117 Tournedos with morels, 373
1088 Tournedos with mushrooms, 366
2085 Tourte de Morilles, 636
1650 Tourte de Poussins à la Paysanne, 522
1180 Tripes à la Mode de Caen, 391–393
Trout, 277
812 Trout à la Cambacérès, 277
817 Trout au bleu, 280
816 Trout, fresh water, 280
394 Trout, marinaded, 163
815 Trout, preparations of, with different Mousses, 279
2277 Truffes à la Crème, 671
2278 Truffes à la Serviette, 671
2275 Truffes sous la Cendre, 671
2279 Truffes, Timbale de, 671
2276 Truffes au Champagne, 671
1956 Truffled pullet, 609
1961 Truffled young turkey, 611
812 Truite à la Cambacérès, 277
811 Truite Saumonée, 277
817 Truites au Bleu, 280
813 Truites Saumonées froides, 278
298 Tunny cream, 141
388 Tunny in oil, 161
389 Tunny with tomatoes, 162
1624 Turban de Filets de Poulet, 516
907 Turban de Filets de Soles à la Villaret, 303
908 Turban de Filets de Soles et Saumon Villaret, 304
1339 Turban de Rognons à la Piémontaise, 443
923 Turbot, 310
924 Turbot, cold, 311
932 Turbotin à la Mode de Hollande, 314
926 Turbotin à l’Amiral, 312
927 Turbotin à l’Andalouse, 312
928 Turbotin Bonne Femme, 313
938 Turbotin, cold, 316
929 Turbotin Commodore, 313
930 Turbotin Daumont, 313
931 Turbotin Fermière, 313
937 Turbotin Feuillantine, 315
933 Turbotin Mirabeau, 314
934 Turbotin Parisienne, 314
935 Turbotin Régence, 314
936 Turbotin soufflé à la Reynière, 315
925 Turbotins, 311
2180 Turnip-tops, 654
2176 Turnips, 653
641, 2179 Turnips, Purée of, 228, 654
2177, 2178 Turnips, stuffed, 653
774 Turtle, 262
614 Turtle soup, 219–222
U.
1627 Ursulines de Nancy, 517
V.
63 Valois sauce, 34
2757 Vanilla ice-cream, 791
2539 Vanilla Soufflé, 741
2349 Vanilla sugar, 693
1940 Vanneaux, 604
1982 Vanneaux, rôtis, 615
1273 Veau, Blanquette de, à l’Ancienne, 424
1274 Veau, Blanquette de, aux Céleris, Cardons, etc., 424
1275 Veau, Blanquette de, aux Nouilles, 425
1208 Veau, breast of veal, stuffed, 403
1196 Veau, chump of veal, 398
1253 Veau, Côtes de, 419
1254 Veau, Côtes de, à la Bonne Femme, 419
1257 Veau, Côtes de, à la Dreux, 420
1255 Veau, Côtes de, en Casserole, 420
1256 Veau, Côtes de, en Cocotte à la Paysanne, 420
126 Veau, Côtes de, froide en Belle Vue, 421
1263 Veau, Côtes de, froides Rubens, 422
1258 Veau, Côtes de, Milanaise, 420
1259 Veau, Côtes de, Papillote, 420
1260 Veau, Côtes de, Pojarski, 421
1261 Veau, Côtes de, Zingara, 421
1197 Veau, cushion of veal, 398
1215 Veau, Escalopes de, 405
Veau, Foie de. _See that title_
199 Veau forcemeat with fat and cream, 81
198 Veau forcemeat with fat or Godiveau, 80
1206 Veau Fricandeau, 403
1207 Veau Fricandeau, cold, 403
1276 Veau, Fricassée de, 425
42 Veau gravy tomaté, 28
1216 Veau, Grenadins de, 406
1217 Veau, Grenadins de, froids en Bellevue, 406
1193 Veau, loin of veal, 398
1205 Veau, loin of veal, cold, 402
1195 Veau, loin of veal, short, 398
1194 Veau, neck of veal, 398
1202 Veau, Noix de, à la Toulousaine, 401
1198 Veau, Noix de, adjuncts to, 399
1199 Veau, Noix de, en Surprise, 400
1200 Veau, Noix de, en Surprise, à la Macédoine, 400
1201 Veau, Noix de, en Surprise, à la Pithiviers, 401
1205 Veau, Noix de, froide, 402
1203 Veau, Noix de, froide, à la Caucasienne, 401
1204 Veau, Noix de, froide, à la Suédoise, 402
1285 Veau, Pain de, 428
1278 Veau, Paupiettes de, 426
1208 Veau, Poitrine de, farcie, 403
Veau, Ris de. _See that title_
1264 Veau, Rognon de, 422
1268 Veau, Rognon de, à la Liégeoise, 423
1269 Veau, Rognon de, à la Montpensier, 423
1271 Veau, Rognon de, à la Robert, 423
1265 Veau, Rognon de, en Casserole, 422
1266 Veau, Rognon de, en Cocotte, 422
1267 Veau, Rognon de, grillé, 422
1270 Veau, Rognon de, Portugaise, 423
1951 Veau, Rôtis de, 607
1279 Veau, sauté de, 426
1283 Veau, sauté de, à la Catalane, 427
1280 Veau, sauté de, à la Marengo, 426
1281 Veau, sauté de, Chasseur, 427
1282 Veau, sauté de, Printanier, 427
1284 Veau, sautés de, various, 428
1181 Veau, Selle de, 394
1182 Veau, Selle de, à la Chartreuse, 395
1183 Veau, Selle de, à la Metternich, 395
1184 Veau, Selle de, à la Nelson, 396
1186 Veau, Selle de, à la Piémontaise, 396
1190 Veau, Selle de, à la Rénaissance, 397
1188 Veau, Selle de, à la Romanoff, 397
1191 Veau, Selle de, à la Talleyrand, 398
1189 Veau, Selle de, à la Tosca, 397
1185 Veau, Selle de, à l’Orientale, 396
1192 Veau, Selle de, froide, 398
1187 Veau, Selle de, Prince Orloff, 397
1205 Veau, shoulder of veal, cold, 402
9 Veau stock, brown, 10
1945 Veau stuffing, 606
Veau, Tête de. _See that title_
1272 Veau, Tendrons de, 424
2343 Vegetable colouring matter, 689
278 Vegetable creams, 133
279 Vegetable garnishes, 133
2121 Vegetable marrow, 644
278 Vegetable Purées, 133
245 Vegetable soups, 102
232 Vegetables, batter for, 96
275 Vegetables, braised, 132
Vegetables, braised, adjuncts of, 132–134
274 Vegetables, dry, treatment of, 132
276 Vegetables, leason of green, with butter, 133
277 Vegetables, leason of, with cream, 133
Vegetables, preparations for, 132–134
695 Velouté à la Sultane, 243
671 Velouté Agnès Sorel, 237
676 Velouté aux Concombres, 238
694 Velouté au Pourpier, 243
674 Velouté aux Carottes, 238
683 Velouté aux Grenouilles, 240
690 Velouté aux Huîtres, 242
672 Velouté de Blanchaille au Currie, 237
684 Velouté Cardinal, 241
673 Velouté Carmélite, 238
695a Velouté chicken, cold, for suppers, 244
675 Velouté Comtesse, 238
677 Velouté Cressonnière, 239
676 Velouté, cucumber, 238
678 Velouté Dame Blanche, 239
676 Velouté Danoise, 238
679 Velouté d’Artois, 239
680 Velouté d’Éperlans, 239
681 Velouté d’Éperlans Joinville, 240
682 Velouté d’Éperlans Princesse, 240
684 Velouté de Homard, 241
685 Velouté de Homard à Cleveland, 241
689 Velouté de Homard à la Persane, 242
686 Velouté de Homard à l’Indienne, 241
687 Velouté de Homard à l’Orientale, 241
688 Velouté de Homard au Paprika, 242
692 Velouté Marie Louise, 243
693 Velouté Marie Stuart, 243
674 Velouté Nivernaise, 238
691 Velouté Isoline, 243
26 Velouté sauce, de Volaille, 20
26a Velouté sauce, fish, 20
25 Velouté sauce, ordinary, 20
27 Velouté sauce, thickened, 21
683 Velouté Sicilienne, 240
677 Velouté Cressonnière, 239
242 Veloutés, the, 101
107 Venetian sauce, 44
Venison. _See_ Chevreuil
2496, 2498 Vermicelli pudding, 734
2324–26 Viennese fritters, 717
2441 Village custard, 721
108 Villeroy sauce, 44
109 Villeroy sauce, soubisée, 44
110 Villeroy sauce, tomatée, 44
129 Vinaigrette sauce, 51
132 Vincent sauce, 51
2141 Vine leaves, stuffed, 647
2776 Violet ice, 794
2540 Violet, Soufflé with, 741
1655 Volaille, Boudins de, à la Richelieu, 523
1656 Volaille, Boudins de, Soubise, 524
1665 Volaille, Brochettes de Foies de, 527
1659 Volaille, Capilotade, 524
2309 Volaille, Carcasses de, 680
713 Volaille, Crème de, Princesse, 249
1665 Volaille, Brochettes de Foies de, 527
1666 Volaille, Foies de, et Rognons sautés au Vin Rouge, 527
1669 Volaille, Fritôt de, 528
1708 Volaille, Galantine de, 538
1712 Volaille, Mayonnaise de, 541
1707 Volaille, Médaillons de, Rachel, 538
1711 Volaille, Mousse de, cold, 541
1670 Volaille, Mousselines de, 528
1677 Volaille, Mousselines de, à la Florentine, 529
1672 Volaille, Mousselines de, à l’Indienne, 529
1674 Volaille, Mousselines de, à la Patti, 529
1675 Volaille, Mousselines de, à la Sicilienne, 529
1671 Volaille, Mousselines de, Alexandra, 529
1673 Volaille, Mousselines de, au Paprika, 529
1670 Volaille, Mousses de, 528
1709 Volaille, Pain de, cold, 540
1678 Volaille, Pilaw de, 530
1679 Volaille, Pilaw de, à la Grecque, 530
1680 Volaille, Pilaw de, à l’Orientale, 530
1681 Volaille, Pilaw de, à la Parisienne, 530
1682 Volaille, Pilaw de, à la Turque, 530
1658 Volaille, Quenelles de, d’Uzès, 524
1657 Volaille, Quenelles de, Morland, 524
1683 Volaille, Soufflés de, 531
1686 Volaille, Soufflés de, à la Périgord, 531
1685 Volaille, Soufflés de, with cooked meat, 531
1684 Volaille, Soufflés de, with raw meat, 531
1710 Volaille, Suprêmes de, à la Jeannette, 540
1614 Volaille, Suprêmes de, à la Pojarski, 513
1613 Volaille, Suprêmes de, à la Polignac, 513
1620 Volaille, Suprêmes de, à la Valois, 515
1584 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Agnès Sorel, 508
1585 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Alexandra, 509
1603 Volaille, Suprêmes de, à l’Indienne, 512
1610 Volaille, Suprêmes de, à l’Orientale, 513
1586 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Ambassadrice, 509
1587 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Arlésienne, 509
1612 Volaille, Suprêmes de, au Parmesan, 513
1589 Volaille, Suprêmes de, aux Champignons à blanc, 509
1590 Volaille, Suprêmes de, aux Champignons à brun, 510
1599 Volaille, Suprêmes de, aux Fonds d’Artichauts, 511
1588 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Boistelle, 509
1591 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Chimay, 510
1592 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Cussy, 510
1593 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Doria, 510
1594 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Dreux, 510
1595 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Écarlate, 510
1596 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Écossaise, 510
1611 Volaille, Suprêmes de, en Papillote, 513
1597 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Favorite, 511
1598 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Financière, 511
1600 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Georgette, 511
1601 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Henri IV, 511
1602 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Hongroise, 511
1604 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Jardinière, 512
1605 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Judic, 512
1606 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Maréchale, 512
1607 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Maryland, 512
1608 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Montpensier, 512
1609 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Orly, 513
1615 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Régence, 514
1616 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Richelieu, 514
1617 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Rossini, 514
1618 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Talleyrand, 514
1619 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Valençay, 515
1621 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Verneuil, 515
1622 Volaille, Suprêmes de, Villeroy, 515
1676 Volaille, Sylphides de, 529
1627 Volaille, Ursulines de Nancy, 517
695a Volaille, Velouté, cold, for suppers, 244
2390 Vol-au-Vent crust, 704
1296 Vol-au-Vent de Cervelle, 430
1782 Vol-au-Vent de Pigeonneaux, 565
1243 Vol-au-Vent de Ris de Veau, 416
W.
2753 Walnut ice-cream, 791
677 Watercress, Velouté of, 239
1042 Waterzoi, 351
2335 Welsh-rarebit, 685
699 Wheat, green, cream of, 245
128 Whisked Mayonnaise sauce, 50
67 White Bordelaise sauce, 34
72 White Chaud-froid sauce, 35
11 White fish stock, 11
248 White meats, braising of, 110
21 White roux, 18
White sauces, the small, 33–47
111 White wine sauce, 45
1036 Whitebait, 348
2968 White-currant jelly, 826
2402 Whipped cream, 711
Whiting. _See_ Merlan
1938 Widgeon, 604
1981 Widgeon, roast, 614
1936 Wild duck, 604
1981 Wild duck, roast, 614
2950 Wine à la Française, 819
2948 Wine, hot, 819
2949 Wine, hot, with orange, 819
111 Wine sauce, white, 45
Woodcock. _See also_ Bécasse
1874 Woodcock and snipe, 592
Y.
333 York Cones, 150
1943 Yorkshire pudding, 605
Z.
1399 Zampino de Modène, 459
1400 Zampino, froid, 459
PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY R. CLAY AND SONS, LTD.,
BRUNSWICK STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E. 1, AND BUNGAY, SUFFOLK.
Transcriber’s Note
The final three chapters have been renumbered to match the Table of
Contents.
Inconsistencies in numbering—or not—of subheadings remain as printed.
Accenting of uppercase words in recipe headings has been regularised
only if both accented and unaccented forms appear in recipe headings in
the original. Where a word that would be accented if lowercase appears
in the original consistently unaccented when uppercased the unaccented
form is retained as printed (eg “A LA” but “à la”).
Recipe numbers have been corrected where the printed number was
obviously out of sequence. Some cross-references have been corrected,
and a redundant index entry has been removed.
Inconsistencies in hyphenation remain as printed.
The notation =Text= denotes the use of small capitals in the original.
The notation +Text+ denotes the semantic use of bold in the original.
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